3/10/2009

1

THE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge

C H A P T E R E I G H T E E N

Click anywhere in the slide to view the next item on the slide or to advance to the next slide. Use the buttons below to navigate to another page, close

the presentation or to open the help page.

1960 - 1980

Check for updates on the web now!

The 1960 – 1980 period of political upheaval worldwide and social unrest in the United States.

1960Food and Drug Administration

approves oral contraceptive pill.Click to advance chronology.

1961Berlin Wall was erected.

Freedom riders begin in the American South.

Russia put first man into space.Alan Shepard, American astronaut, makes

suborbital space flight in May.

1962Cuban Missile crisis.

Publication of Rachel Carson’s bookThe Silent Spring.

1963Civil Rights rally in Washington D.C.Assassination of President Kennedy

Betty Friedan publishesThe Feminine Mystique

1964Congress passes the Civil Rights bill.

Martin Luther King wins the Nobel Prize.

1966National Organization for Women (NOW)

founded.

1967Demonstrations against the Vietnam War

in the United States.10,000 young people participate in “Be-in”

in Central Park, New York City.

1968Martin Luther King assassinated.

Robert Kennedy assassinated.Student demonstrations in Europe and the

United States.

1969Apollo 11 lands on the moon.

Woodstock music festival.

1970Four students killed in anti-war

demonstration at Kent State University.First celebration of Earth Day.

1971200,000 participate in anti-war march on

Washington D.C.

1972Nixon goes to China.

Break-in at the Watergate.

1973Peace treaty ending Vietnam War signed.

United States Supreme Court rules that abortion is legal.

Yom Kippur Arab-Israeli War.Arabs impose oil embargo.

1974Richard Nixon’s resignation, Ford becomes

President.

1978Diplomatic relations opened between the

United States and China

1979Camp David agreement between Egypt

and Israel is signed.Three-mile Island nuclear power plant

failure occurs.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

2C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

In the fashion arena, by 1960 a change was evident as fashion moved away from “New Look” styles to a contrasting style.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

3C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

3/10/2009

2

Designers such as Saint Laurent, Cardin, Ungaro, and others who had trained under important figures of the 50’s led the couture.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

4C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

At the same time they and other new designers expanded into the Ready-to-Wear or

Prêt-A-Porter market where Americans had flourished.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

5C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Social protest had an impact on fashion. They

included:

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

6C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

3/10/2009

3

Civil Rights and Black Power

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

7C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Anti-War, Anti-Establishment

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

8C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Feminist Movement

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

9C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

3/10/2009

4

Environmental Movement

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

10C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Street styles, styles that originated among the young who often congregated in groups on the street, began to influence fashion.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

11C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Groups of mostly young people who had the same interest and wore the same kinds of clothing were called “Style Tribes” by author

Ted Polhemus.

• Mods

• Hippies

• Anti-War Youth

• Punks

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

12C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

3/10/2009

5

Art movements that influenced fashion included

Op Art and Pop Art.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

13C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

c. 1960's "Andy Warhol"

Campbell's Soup Paper Dress

Fiber artists began to create items of clothing that became

know as “Wearable Art.”

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

14C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

While many women went bra-less, others compromised with a soft “No

Bra Bra.”

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

15C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

3/10/2009

6

The first nylon pantyhose appeared around 1960.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

16C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Other new forms of undergarments appeared, including body stocking and bodysuits.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

17C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

The lines of dresses included such variations as:

• Empire waistlines (around 1960)

• A-Line shapes with dresses flaring slightly from neck to hem.

• Dresses falling straight from a yoke at the shoulder.

• Dresses unfitted through the torso and with a flounce joint to the hem of the dress at the knee.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

18C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

of the dress at the knee.

3/10/2009

7

Evening dresses usually were short and highly ornamented.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

19C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

A wide variety of sportswear, especially pant such as hip-huggers and hot pants were seen.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

20C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Outdoor clothing was short and loosely fitted until the end of the 60’s, around 1970 hems lengths started to vary.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

21C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

3/10/2009

8

Changes in costume for women: 1974 - 1980

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

22C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Although the fashion industry attempted to get women to wear a mid-calf length skirt call the “Midi,”, it was not a success in 1970.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

23C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Although women did not want to cover their legs with skirts, pants and pant suits were important components

of most women’s wardrobes from the late 1960’s on.

XX

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

24C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Click on image to enlarge

3/10/2009

9

As more women obtained higher level business jobs, they were advised to dress for success in tailored suits

with just a touch of femininity at the neckline.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

25C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Bias cut evening dresses appeared, long gowns returned to fashion.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

26C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Most cloth coats were fitted, but there was a fad for puffy, down

filled coats in the late 1970’s.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

27C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

3/10/2009

10

Examples 0f Typical Hair and Headdress Styles from 1960 to 1980

Early 1970’s 1970’s1960’s 1960’s 1960’s

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

28C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

19631960’s 1976 1975-1980

Examples of Typical Footwear Styles from 1960 to 1980

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

29C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Examples of Popular Accessories from 1960 to 1980

Sun glasses

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

30C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Handbags

Jewelry

3/10/2009

11

Changes in men’s underwear were mostly in their decoration and fabrics used.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

31C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

As mod fashions appeared, men’s suits moved from conservative styles to mod-influenced styles.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

32C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

With the social revolution came greater freedom of choice in clothes for men.

Esquire Magazine called it the “Peacock Revolution.”

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

33C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

3/10/2009

12

New coat styles such as the Nehru Jacket were popular for a short time.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

34C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Instead of dress shirts, men often wore turtleneck sweaters with suits or sports

jackets.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

35C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Sportswear options increased. One item popular in the 1970’s was the Leisure Suit.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

36C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

3/10/2009

13

The young of the 1960’s and after had brought blue jeans to the fashion world and left them as a legacy to the future.

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

37C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

For Further StudyMuseum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period ClothingTexas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htmBata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.htmlBath Museum. Interesting feature of “the dress of the year.”

http://www.museumofcostume.co.ukPictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of

garments and accessories. http://www.camrax.comhttp://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tstwentieth/20.htmlPhiladelphia Museum www.philamuseum.orgMetropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute found at

www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.aspCornell University Costume Collection http://char txa cornell edu/treasures/index html

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

38C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Cornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.htmlDrexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html

Fashion DesignersGo to web site http://www.dilpreetbawa.com/historyofashion/fashionframe.html and look at

pages devoted to fashion designers active between 1960 and 1980.Also search on names of specific fashion designers. Many firms and designers are still active and

may have their own web pages.

For Further Study

The Young And Fashion Innovationshttp://www.gbacg.org/Articles/mods.pdfhttp://www.fiftiesweb.com/fashion/mod-fashion.htmhttp://www.hippy.com/php/article-120.htmlhttp://www.costumegallery.com/1960.htmhttp://www.fashion-era.com/punks_fashion_history1.htmhttp://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/vivw/hd_vivw.htmhttp://www.arthistoryclub.com/art_history/Punk_fashion

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

39C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

3/10/2009

14

Image Credits Image copyright (c) 2004 by Philo Vivero. Image created using free tools available at http://faemalia.net/Fractals

Photo of Birth Control Pills, Courtesy, www.metrokc.gov

Photo of Yuri Gagarin, the first human in space, Courtesy, NASA

Photo of Freedom Riders, Courtesy, Southwest Missouri State University

Image of Berlin Wall, Courtesy, National Archives at College Park - Archives II (College Park, MD)

Anwar Sadat, Jimmy Carter and Menahem Begin at the Camp David Accords Signing Ceremony, 09/17/1978, Courtesy, Jimmy Carter Library (Atlanta, GA)

Image of UN Viewing Photos of Missile Sites in Cuba 1962, Courtesy the United Nations Photo Library

Orchard with Blossoming Plum Trees, 1888, Courtesy the Web Museum, Paris

Civil Rights March on Washington 1963, Courtesy, www.washingtonafra.com

"A female demonstrator offers a flower to military police on guard at the Pentagon during an anti-Vietnam demonstration.", Courtesy, National Archives and Records Administration, Records of the Office of The Chief Signal Officer (111-CC-46331)

"Women protest the U.S. presence in Vietnam 1969, Courtesy University Archives, Arizona State University Libraries"

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

40C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

p p y y y

Betty Friedan, Photograph by World Telegram & Sun photographer Fred Palumbo. 1960, Library of Congress, Reproduction Number: LC-USZ62-20997

Kennedy, Robert. Appearing before the Platform Committee, Photograph by Warren K. Leffler, 1964, Library of Congress, Reproduction Number: LC-U9-5415-30

President's Family leaves Capitol after Ceremony, John F. Kennedy Library (Boston, MA)

Photograph of White House Meeting with Civil Rights Leaders, June 22, 1963, 06/22/1963,John F. Kennedy Library (Boston, MA)

Alan Ginsberg at the Human Be-In October 1967, Courtesy, www.summeroflove.org

MARTIN LUTHER KING, JR. at a press conference at the Capitol, Washington, D.C., Photograph by Marion S. Trikosko, March 26, 1964, Library of Congress (LC-U9-11696)

Alan Shepard, Apollo 11 Moon Landing, Courtesy NASA

Woodstock Photo, Courtesy Alvin Lee, 1969

Image Credits Photo of Earth, Courtesy NASA

Kent State Shooting Aftermath, Courtesy, the Bettman Archive, UPI

Peaceful Protest in Washington D.C., 1971 b/w photographs, 1971. NYU Archives Photo Collection, Courtesy New York University

President and Mrs. Nixon's arrival in Peking, China, Nixon reviewing troops at the airport., 02/21/1972, National Archives at College Park -Archives II (College Park, MD)

Watergate Complex, National Archives at College Park - Archives II (College Park, MD)

Watergate Burglers, 1972 UPI/Bettman Archive

Henry Kissinger, right, shaking hands with Le Duc Tho in Paris after their agreement on the cease-fire terms of the Vietnam War, 1973, www.britannica.com

Photo of Gas Station with "Sold Out Today" sign, 1973, United States Department of Energy

The Supreme Court Building, United State Government Printing Office

Richard Nixon departs from the White House before Gerald Ford was sworn in as President, By Oliver F. Atkins, Washington, DC, August 9, 1974, Nixon Presidential Materials Project, National Archives and Records Administration"

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

41C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Deng Xiaoping and Jimmy Carter at the arrival ceremony for the Vice Premier of China , 01/29/1979, Jimmy Carter Library (Atlanta, GA)

Three Mile Island, Three Mile Island - April 11, 1979 (Source: NARA)

Dior’s Dinner Taffeta; your own shoulders, padded hips, Vogue, April 1947

"Paris The Wow Proportions," Vogue, March 15, 1965, page 86, from the Author's collection.

"The Beautiful Full Body", Givenchy, , August 3, 1962, Fairchild Publications Archives

Escargo, Prêt-A-Porter, Vogue, 1967

"Try Police Not Huey" opening day Huey P Newton trial - Oakland Court house - l969, www.newsreel.us

Earth Day Pin, Courtesy, www.geosound.org

Photo of Earth, Courtesy NASA

Hippies, http://discosantigos.com

Image copyright (c) 2004 by Philo Vivero. Image created using free tools available at http://faemalia.net/Fractals

Image Credits Punk Hair Styles by Peter Gennard EFIAP/p, www.theoldschoolhouse.com

"Oh to be in London,” Time, April 15, 1966, pp. 34-35, General Collections, Library of Congress (283)

Image of Mod Clothing, Vogue, September 1, 1965, page 197, from the Author's collection

#3008 - c. 1960's "Andy Warhol" Campbell's Soup Paper Dress, Courtesy www.antiquedress.com

Wearable Art, Courtesy, Robert Hillstead; photographer, John Nollendorfs

Designer Rudi Gernreich's "No-Bra" bra in nude tricot for Exquisite Form manufactured, 1969, , December 10, 1969, Fairchild Publications

Triple Vision Pantyhose, www.vintagepantyhose.com

Good Girl, Bad Girl Pantyhose, www.vintagepantyhose.com

Bodysuits, July 31, 1969, Fairchild Publications

Empire Waist Dress, Vogue, May 1963, page 163, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications

A-Line Dress, Vogue, March 15, 1969, page 133, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications

Evening Dress, Vogue, March 1, 1967, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

42C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Two Evening Dress, Vogue March 1, 1967, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications

Illustrations from Women's Wear Daily, May 5, 1971, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications.

Ungaro Advertisement, Vogue, March 15, 1969, page 82, Courtesy, , Condé Nast Publications

Julie Driscoll, Vogue, March 15, 1969, page 116, Courtesy, , Condé Nast Publications

Sketch form Women's Wear Daily, September 1971, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications

"Buy Longuettes…Bye-Bye Minis", , September 17, 1970, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications

Mila Schon, Vogue, March 15, 1969, page 101, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications

#3920 - c. 1965 Incredible, Hard-to-Find EMILIO PUCCI Brown Twill Print Pants Suit, www.antiquedress.com

#4146 - c. 1960's EMILIO PUCCI Fabulous Silk Mini Dress/Tunic, Bellbottom Pants, and Original Tie Sash, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com

Illustration of Woman in Dress for Success Look, Courtesy Fairchild Publications

Vintage 70's Floral Maxi Dress with Attached Asymmetrical Scarf, Courtesy, www.vintage70sclothing.com

3/10/2009

15

Image Credits Vintage 70's Bright Rose Pink Halter Maxi Dress, Courtesy, www.vintage70sclothing.com

Vintage 70's Black Evening Gown with Shimmering Sequins Bodice, Courtesy, www.vintage70sclothing.com

Vintage 60's Bias Cut Animal Print Maxi Dress with Scalloped Hem, Courtesy, www.vintage70sclothing.com

Charles de Castelbajac, Women's Wear Daily, April 7, 1976, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications

#9174 - c. 1960's White Silk Dupioni Mod Hat, www.antiquedress.com

#4299 - c. early 1970's CHRISTIAN DIOR from Saks Fifth Avenue Grey Wool Felt Floppy Hat with Matching Crochet Trim, www.antiquedress.com

#9317 - c. 1960's MISS DIOR, by Christian Dior Off-White Chiffon Pom-Pom Beret, www.antiquedress.com

#9316 - c. 1960's CHRISTIAN DIOR Chapeaux, Paris, New York Light Beige Plush Hat with Black Patent "Bow", www.antiquedress.com

#9143 - 1970's Tan Leather Cap, www.antiquedress.com

Purses, Wallets and Jewelry, Courtesy, www.chelsea-girl.com

1960's and 1970's Sunglasses, Courtesy, www.klasik.org

Men's Underwear Men's Wear January 9 1968 Courtesy Fairchild Publications

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

43C H A P T E R E I G H T E E NTHE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Men s Underwear, Men s Wear, January 9, 1968, Courtesy Fairchild Publications

1960's Man's Suit, Daily New Record, February 14, 1967, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications

Continental Style Suit Illustration, Courtesy Fairchild Publications

The Nehru Suit, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications