Chapter 14

2012edition

Principles of Hair Design

Design is:

* foundation of all artistic applications

•Designers have a strong visual eye

*design the best hairstyle for your client

•Analyze the entire person

* elements and principles of design

* enhance positive features

* minimize negative ones

•Develop artistic skill and judgment

Bestfashions.blogspot.com

Celebhairstyles.wordpress.com

Trendynewhairstyles.blogspot.com

Philosophy of Design

•See the end result before beginning

•Inspiration comes from:

* movies, TV, magazines…

* sparks the creative process

•Best source

* found in nature

•Hairstyle from an earlier time

* inspire you

•Follows fashion trends

*create the total look

•Decide:

* tools and techniques needed to achieve design

-cutting shears, flat irons, perm, color, etc

•develop or practice a technique

•Be open to change

*creative process

-exciting and satisfying

•Develop a visual understanding

* styles work best

-face shapes

-body types

•Train your eye

•Review these pages over and over

•Best teacher

* time

* trial-and-error process

* experience

•Strong design foundation

* great stylist

* creative juices

* beyond the basics

* take calculated risks

“safe” = “dull”

•“cookie cutter” stylist

* everyone gets the same haircut or design

•Explore new possibilities

* customizing your design -individual needs and lifestyle

•Think out of the box

Matriz.com

thestar.com

•Great hairstylists:

* find inspiration everywhere

* keeping an eye out for what is new

* dedicate themselves to their continuing education

•Have your eyes and mind always open to learning

Elements of Hair Design

•Five basic elements of design

Line

Form

Space

Texture

Color

Line

• Defines form and space

• Creates

* shape

* design

*movement

• Eye follows

* straight or curved

Horizontal lines

* width

* same direction

* constant distance apart

Hairstyles-tips.blogspot.com

Hairstyle-blog.com

Vertical lines

* length and height

* appear longer

* narrower

Bestwomenstyle.com

hairfinder.com

Diagonal lines

* between

-horizontal -vertical lines

•Emphasize

*minimize facial features

•Creates interest

Hubpages.com

Nowchic.com

Just-for-mom.kaboose.com

Zimbio.com

Curved lines

* soften a design

•Full circle

* part of a circle

•Horizontally, vertically, or diagonally

•Repeating in opposite directions create a wave

Latesthairstyle.net

Latest-hairstyles.com

Beauty.about.com

Designing with Lines

• Created by type of line, direction, or combination

Single lines

* one length hairstyles

* lowest maintenance

Toniandguy.com.au

Parallel lines

* repeating lines

* straight or curved

* more interest

• Finger wave

* curved parallel lines

                     

               

Blacknews.com

Mirror.co.uk

Healthytextures.typepad.com

Contrasting lines

* horizontal and vertical lines -meeting at a 90 degree

angle

•Creates a hard edge

•Strong look

z.about.com

Hypnoticsalon.com

Transitional lines

* curved lines

* blend and soften

- horizontal

- vertical lines

Haircutshairstyles.com

Hairstyles53.com

Form

•General outline of the hairstyle

•Three-dimensional

* length

* width

* depth

•Volume

•Silhouette

* overall design

* client will respond to first

•In proportion

* shape of the head and face

* length and width of the neck

* shoulder line

Lifeandtrend.com

Fashionhaircuts.blogspot.com

Short-hairstyles-pictures.blogspot.com

Space

•Area the hairstyle occupies

•Every angle

* keep in mind

- forms being created

- spaces as well

•Curls, waves, straight hair, or any combination

Hairstyles.hairboutique.com

Modelbride.com

Romance-fire.com

Design Texture

•Wave patterns

•Described as

* straight

* wavy

* curly

* extremely curly

•Straight hair reflects light

* single line haircut

•Wavy hair

* combed into horizontal lines

•Curly and extremely curly

* do not reflect much light

* coarse to the touch

•Curly hair

* larger form than straight or wavy hair

Beauty.abut.com

Diylusional.livejournal.com

Creating Design texture with Styling Tools

•Texture

* temporary

* heat or wet

•Curling iron or hot rollers

* wave or curl

Setssalon.ca

amozon.com

Appliance.com

Bridalwave.tv

Hair-style-magazine.cm

•Curly hair

* straightened

•Crimping irons

* interesting zigzags

•Rollers/pin curls/finger waves

*temporary textured pattern changes

Blisssalonstore.com

Hairs.com

Hairs.com

jouez.blogspot.com

Madhatta.buzznet.com

Hubpages.com

Changing Design Texture With Chemicals

•Permanent

* until new hair grows in

•Curly hair

* straightened

•Straight hair

*curled with permanent waves

Tips for Designing with Wave Patterns

•Many wave pattern combinations

* overly busy look

* multitextured

-less appropriate

for professionals

Community.livejournal.com

Popgloss.com

•Smooth wave patterns

* accent the face

•Use to narrow a round head shape

*** make smaller

•Curly wave patterns

* attention away from the face

* soften square or rectangular features

Curly-hair-styles-magazine.com

Easycurls.com

Beauty.about.com

Community.livejournal.com

Color

•Important role in hair design

* visually

* psychologically

* appear larger or smaller

* defines texture and line

* ties design elements together

z.about.com

Yourhaircolorideas.com

Hairbrained.wordpress.com

Dimension with Color

•Light and warm

* illusion of volume

•Dark and cool

* recede or move in toward the head * illusion of less volume

•Illusion of dimension

*lighter and warmer colors alternate with darker and cooler colors

Withintheblackcommunity.blogspot.com

Short-hair-style.com

Profile.myspace.com

Lines with Color

•Eye is drawn to the lightest color

* light color to draw a line in a hairstyle

* direction you want the eye to travel

•A single line of color

*bold, dramatic accent

Music.kpopshare.com

Profile.myspace.com

Thecuttingchair.com

Naturallycurlyhair.com

Color Selection

•Tone compatible with the skin

•Gold tone in skin

* warm hair colors in hair

•Natural tones

* two or more colors

* similar tones

* within two levels of each other

•Strong contrast is attention grabbing

•Trendy and can carry off a bold look

Flickr.com

Fotolia.com

Principles Of Hair Design

•Proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis, and harmony

*basis of hair design

•Understanding these principles

* more confidence

* creating styles that are pleasing to the eye

Proportion

•Comparative relationship

* one thing to another

•Very small chin/very wide forehead

*not in proportion

•A well-chosen hairstyle

*illusion of better proportion

Body proportion

•Essential

* client’s body shape and size

•Challenges

* hair form too small

* too large

•Large hips or broad shoulders

* more volume

Naturallycurly.com

Cury-hair-styles-magazine.com

•Large hair

* out of proportion on a petite woman

•Hair should not:

* be wider than the center of the shoulders

G-ecx.images.amazon.com

Cute-hair-cuts.blogspot.com

Beyond center of shoulder

Balance

•Equal or appropriate proportions

*create symmetry

•Height to width

•Symmetrical or asymmetrical

•Dissatisfied

*style is out of balance

•Measure symmetry

* divide the face

* four equal parts

•Style

* pleasing to the eye

* in correct balance

Symmetrical balance

•Imaginary line

* through the center of the face

* two halves

-mirror image of one another

•Both sides same distance

same length

same volume

Zimbio.comBridal-hair-styles.comKaboodle.comPro.corbis.com

Asymmetrical balance

•Imaginary halves

*equal visual weight

*appear equal but positioned unevenly

•Opposite sides * different lengths

* different volume

•Can be horizontal or diagonal

Hji.co.uk

hairextensiions,.network.com

Hairstylescut.com

Rhythm

•Recurrent patttern

•Fast rhythm-tight curls

•Slow rhythm-larger shaping/long waves

Fashiontribes.typepad.com

Stylebell.files.wordpress.com

Emphasis

•Draws the eye first

*rest of the design

Create interest:

* Wave patterns * Color

* Change in form * Ornamentation

Easy-hairstyles.com

Beautytwist.com

Brides.com

Hairstyles53.com

•Choose

* want to emphasize

•Design simple

* easy for the eye to follow

•Multiple points

*decrease in size

-importance

•Remember, less is more

Hubpages.com

Harmony

•Creation of unity

* most important principle

* holds all of the elements of the design together

* a form with interesting lines

* pleasing color

* combination of color and textures

* balance and rhythm -strengthen the design

•Never too busy

•In proportion

* facial and body structure

* area of emphasis

•Facial features

* analyzed

* strengths and weaknesses

*** Most important point in this chapter!!!

Your job

* accentuate a client’s best features

*downplay features that do not add to the person’s appearance

•Artistic and suitable hairstyle

*physical characteristics

•Shape of the head

* front * profile * back

•Features (perfect and imperfect)

•Body posture

Influence of Hair Type on Hairstyle

•Hair type

* major consideration

•Two characteristics:

* wave pattern

* hair texture

Considerations:

* natural wave patterns

* texture

* density

choosing a style

Fine, straight hair

* hugs the head shape

* no body or volume

* styling aids or chemical services

Salonbliss.com

Lovehair.blogspot.com

Bellasugar.com

•Straight, medium hair

* more versatility

* responds well to blow-drying

* good amount of movement

Antonshairstudio.com

Celebrityhairstyle.blogspot.com

•Straight, coarse hair

* hard to curl

* more volume

* slightly wider silhouette

*use flat brushes

Bellaonline.com

Hairstyle-blog.com

* thermal styling

* flat brush

* blow-dryer/round brush

-too “poofy”

* chemical services may take a little longer

•Wavy, fine hair

* appear fuller

- appropriate haircut

- style

* layering

- fuller

Lovehair.blogspot.com

Haircutsfashion.com

* responds

- blow-drying

- chemical services

* can be fragile

* diffused

-fuller appearance

•Wavy, medium hair

* most versatility

* diffused

* easily straightened

- blow-drying

Hairthursday.com

•Wavy, coarse hair

* silhouette can get very wide

* unruly if not shaped properly

* flattering shape

-easy to maintain

* soft perm for wash–and-wear curly style

*chemical relaxer

43things.com

Beauty.about.com

Todaystylist.com

•Curly, fine hair

* separates

* revealing scalp

* mild relaxers

* color services

*blowdrying

not effective

in humid environment

Naturallycurly.com

Marieclaire.com

•Curly, medium hair

* wide silhouette

*natural

-soft romantic look

Healthyhairplus.com

Hairthursday.com

* wide silhouette

- proportion to body shape

* shaping

- weight line

* responds

- relaxers

- color

•Curly, coarse hair

* heavy styling products

*shrinks when dry

-appears much shorter

Hairthursday.com

•Very curly, fine hair

* most flattering shape

- determined first

- ease of styling

* best if cut short

Haircutsfashion.com

Awonderfuleverything.com

* left long

- wide

-extremely voluminous

* chemical services

* pressing

* may be fragile

Delush.com

•Extremely curly, medium hair

* silhouette

- very wide

-looks wider rather than longer

* chemical relaxers

* hair pressing

* natural state

- close to the head

- ease of styling

- low maintenance

Curly-hair-styles-magazine.com

•Extremely curly, coarse hair

* extremely wide

* chemical relaxing

* often too thick

- ponytail

* easy care hair

- short, cropped layers

Enotalone.com

Facial types

•Facial shape

* position and prominence

* facial bones

•Determine

* hair off of the face

* observe

Seven basic facial shapes:

* Oval

* Round

* Square

* Oblong

* Triangle (pear-shaped)

* Inverted triangle (heart-shaped)

* Diamond

Hair completely off the face, observe

* recognize each

- style the hair

- most flattering design

* create the illusion

~ oval-shaped face

*** “perfect shaped face” and can wear any hairstyle

Divide the face into three zones:

* forehead to eyebrows

* eyebrows to end of nose

* end of nose to bottom of chin

Add:

1/3

1/3

1/3

Oval Facial Type

* basis for modifying all other facial types

Shapeyourstyle.com

Facial contour

* about 1 ½ times longer

- width across the brow

* forehead is slightly wider

- chin

* any hairstyle

- considerations

~ eyeglasses

~ length and shape of nose

~ profile

Shapeyourstyle.com

Celebrity examples:

Jewel

Cameron Diaz

Elle MacPherson

Julia Roberts

Sharon Stone

Round Facial Type

Facial contour:

* round hairline

* round chin line

* wide face

Hairstyles-blog.com

Objective:

* illusion of length

* slimmer

Styling choice:

* height or volume on top

* closeness or no volume at the sides

Shapeyourstyle.com

Celebrity examples:

Kate Winslet

Drew Barrymore

Christina Ricci

Catherine Zeta-Jones

Square Facial Type

Facial Contour:

* wide at temples

* narrow at middle third of face

* squared off at jaw

Objective:

* offset or round out square features

Styling choice:

* soften the hair

- temples and jaw

* close to the head

* create volume

- temple and jaw

- width at the ear

Blog.fashionwindows.com

Shapeyourstyle.com

Celebrity examples:

Sandra Bullock

Demi Moore

Holly Marie Combs

Kristin Scott Thomas

Triangular (pear-shaped) Facial Type

Facial contour:

* narrow forehead

* wide jaw

* wide chin line

Objective:

* illusion of width

- forehead

Styling choices:

* volume at the temples

* height at top

* hide narrowness of forehead

- bangs

(soft fringe)Styletips101.com

Celebrity example:

Kathy Ireland

Hairdohairstyles.com

Rottentomatoes.com

Oblong Facial Type

Facial contour:

* long, narrow face

* hollow cheeks

Objective:

* make face appear

- shorter

- wider

Styling choice:

* keep close to top of head

- no volume

* volume to sides

- illusion of width

* hair not long

* chin length

Celebrity examples:

Kirstie Alley

Ron Pearlman

Liv Tyler

Stephanie Seymour

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://images.mylot.com/userImages/images/postphotos/198476.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.mylot.com/w/photokeywords/liv%2Btaylor.aspx&h=375&w=500&sz=32&tbnid=yaiKw9OK4ClxyM:&tbnh=101&tbnw=134&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dliv%2Btaylor%26tbm%3Disch%26tbo%3Du&zoom=1&q=liv+taylor&docid=kTBHAaZL1RKkaM&hl=en&sa=X&ei=84ZqT7iZJ4Xa0QH6tbznBg&sqi=2&ved=0CDEQ9QEwAQ&dur=612

Babble.com

Diamond Facial Type

Facial contour:

* narrow forehead

* extreme width through cheekbones

* narrow chin

Objective:

* reduce width across the cheekbone line

Styling choice:

* fullness

- jawline

- forehead

* close to head at cheekbone - create oval appearance

Hairstyles-blog.com

Beautynewsla.com

Celebrity example:

Nicole Kidman

http://celebritiespicturezone.blogspot.com/2009/06/best-and-worst-hairstyles-for-your-face.html

http://www.shoppinglifestyle.com/gallery/celebrityhairstyles/?pg=25

Inverted Triangle Facial Type

(Heart shape)

Facial contour:

* wide forehead

* narrow chin line

Hair-styles-secrets-revealed.com

Teamsugar.com

Objective:

* decrease width

- forehead

* increase width

- lower part of the face

Styling choice:

* close to the head

* no volume

* bangs

*increase width

- middle third

- at cheekbone

- near the ears

* widest at the jaw

-neck area

Hairdos411.

Celebrity examples:

Michelle Pfeiffer

Jennifer Love Hewitt

Ashley Judd

Profiles:

* outline of the face

- head

- figure seen in a side view

Straight profile

* considered ideal

- not convex or concave)

* all hairstyles are flattering

Inmagine.com

Convex profile

* receding forehead and chin

- curls or bangs over the forehead

- close to the head at nape

- move hair forward in the chin area

Sciforums.com

Concave profile

* prominent (sticks out) forehead and chin

* others recede inward

* softly style at the nape

- upward movement

- no hair on forehead

Suddenlysenior.com

Straight face/prominent nose

Concavehttp://feaginandowenplasticsurgery.com/before-after-gallery/17/rhinoplasty/nose.html

Special Considerations

* apply design principles

- balance facial structural challenges

* divide face

- three sections

- do analysis

Top Third of the Face

Wide forehead:

* hair over the sides of the forehead

Narrow forehead:

* direct the hair away from the forehead

* lighter highlights at temple - creates illusion of width

Receding forehead:

* bangs over the forehead - volume

Large forehead:

* bangs with little or no volume

The Middle Third of the Face

Close-set eyes:

* on long, narrow faces

* hair back away from the temples

* diagonal part

* some height

* lightening

- corner of the eyes - illusion of width

Madisonmag.com

Hair-style-magazine.com

Wide-set eyes:

* round or square faces

* higher half bang

- length in the face

* illusion of the face being larger (longer)

* eyes

- more proportional

* hair

- slightly darker at the sides

Memefirst.com

Zimbio.com

Crooked nose:

* asymmetrical

- off centered styles - attract the eye away

from the nose

*symmetrical (remove “A”in book)

- accentuates face is not even

Boston.com

Flickr.com

Wide, flat nose:

* keep hair away from the face

* center part

- elongate and narrow the nose

http://www.drdayan.com/surgery/conditions-nose.html

Long, narrow nose:

Stay away from…

* hair tapered close to the head

* height on top

* middle part

* hair directed toward the face

Do…

* style hair away from face - illusion wider facial

features

Rocketrend.wordpress.com

Small nose:

* hair swept off the face

* off the forehead

- length to the nose

Bordeglobal.com

Prominent nose:

* hair forward at forehead

- softness around the face

Starpulse.com

Lower Third of the Face

Round jaw:

* straight lines at jaw

Square jaw:

* curved lines at jaw

Zimbio.com

Shapeyourstyle.com

Long jaw:

* hair full

* fall below the jaw

Gamespot.com

Receding chin:

* hair forward in the chin area

Small chin:

* hair up and away

- chin line

Sciforums.com

Pulpcouture.livejournal.com

Cambridgeprivatehospital.co.uk

Large chin:

* hair

- longer or shorter than chin

*avoid drawing attention

Head shape

* not all are round

* feel head shape

- choosing hairstyle

* design the style

- volume in areas, flat and small

- reduce volume for large or prominent areas

*** Pay close attention to head shape when performing:

Add to side bar:

*buzz cuts

*French twists

Styling for People Who Wear Glasses

* arm of the glasses

- push the hair at the ear

- cause it to stick out

* short haircuts

- little length around the ear

- cut the hair above the ear

Hair Parts:

* focal point

* eye is drawn

* best to use the natural part

* challenging

- working against a natural part

*** often a trend/not always appropriate…

Thehairstyler.com

Parts for the Bangs (Fringe)

Bangs:

* triangular section

- begins at the apex

- highest point of the head

- ends at the front corners

Hairdohairstyles.com

Triangular part

* basic parting for fringe sections

Diagonal part

* height

- round or square faces

* width

- long, thin faces

Thecreativestudio.com

Dailymail.co.uk

Curved part

* receding hairline

* high forehead

Style parts:

* highlight facial features

Center parts are classic

* oval faces

* avoid

- prominent noses

*** less flattering features

Is this a good part for Sarah?

Why or why not?

Uk.fashion.popsugar.com

Side Parts

* develop height on top

* thin hair appear fuller

Hair-craft.co.uk

Diagonal

* illusion of width

- height

Zigzag

* dramatic effect

Short-hair-style.comFlickr.com

Designing for Men

* all design principles and elements work for men

* all hair lengths are acceptable

* recommend styles

- flattering

- appropriate

~ lifestyle-career-hair type

Cool-mens-hairstyle.blogspot.com

123 hairstyles.com

Professinalhaircare.blogspot.com

Menshairstylesonline.com

Hairresources.com

hairstyleshaircuts.info

***now men are

* “metrosexuals”

* care for themselves better than ever

* growing market

* impeccable skills

- excellent customer service

*key to successfully (lucratively)

- providing services to this client base

Choosing Facial Hair Design

*mustaches, beards, sideburns

* camouflage facial flaws

* no prominent chin

- neatly trimmed full beard

and mustache

*wide face/full cheeks

- close-trimmed beard/mustache

Menshair.about.com

Teen.aol.com

Lasfashionistas.blogspot.com

Menshair.about.com

Balding

* closely trimmed hair

* closely trimmed beard and mustache

Sideburns, mustaches, beards

* dictated by current trends/fashions

* well-groomed and flattering