Chain Making

8/8/2019 Chain Making

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Yusuf Motiwala- PGJM 15th

November

CHAIN MAKINGHISTORY,PROCESS,TYPES,PROBLEMS ANDBENEFITS

The definition of chain is as simple as interlocking links of metal. If the metal happens to be

precious metal, then we consider the chain jewelry. Gold jewelry chains are now largely made

by machine. The traditional handmade process for chains is long and laborious, often notconsidered cost effective in an industrial setting. Although some craftsmen still enjoy the original

process, most jewelry makers purchase or make machine-crafted gold chains.

History of Chain Making

As with all jewelry, chain making is not asimple process. It too involves a number of

stages and it's a long way from the raw

material to the final finished product.

Invention of the wire helped the goldsmiths to

craft chains from gold and its alloys. Neolithic

men found gold very pliant, soft and supple

and they hammered and pounded it to take

any form and shape and also stretch its

length. Perhaps this was the birth of chain and

chain making. Till the 18th century chain was

handcrafted, laborious and time consuming. It

still is. By twisting and turning the wire

different shapes are formed and linking one

link with the other forms the most basic chain.

Romans and Persians were adept at chain

making. They used chains on bridles of horses,

on vests for protection in war, on doors, in anchors and jewelry; chain making was a well

practiced art. The wires were made into loops and connected to each other to form chains

which were used to especially on armor. The loops were sown on vests worn by soldiers. Chains

constructed in this fashion with interlocking links are called chain maille /mail or chain armor.

This was the common term used in the medieval times to indicate flat chains.

Before machines took over, goldsmiths used to hand make most chains. They would hammer

the metal, gold or silver into flat strips. Then they would draw or pull these strips of metal

through a number of dies to form wires. The wire which was reduced to the diameter or

thickness required. The wire was then wound around a mandrel forming loops. Mandrel is used

to shape metal into a desired size or shape by using a tiny hammer. Then it was cut through the


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looped wire. Then they would interlock the loops; bend each link to close it.

Then use heat to solder each joint. And this process was continued till the desired length is

completed.

Such chains and many even today, are handcrafted. Hand fabrication is indispensable in any

form of jewelry making. Delicate touches, mounting difficult settings or attaching beads needskilled fingers. Therefore hand crafting cannot be totally discontinued. However demand

requires mass production. Mechanization was the obvious answer and this led Jacques de

Vaucanson, a French man in 1750, to invent a machine which made U shaped wire for mesh

chain. This progressed into a chain making machine in 1782. Pedaling generated power and this

machine was highly sought by goldsmiths and craftsmen. By the 1800's different types of chain

making machines were designed, all based on this basic model. In 1870, this method of chain

making caught the eyes of Europeans and Americans. In 1893 in Chicago World Exposition,

Americans for the first time exhibited their model of chain making machine which was

decidedly better. It was based on better technology, possessed speed and was sophisticated.

During the sixties Italians became and still remain masters of chain making and chain making

machines.Types of chains

Variety of designs run riot in the fashion world of

chains. Broad, thin, light, heavy, ornamental,

simple, intricate, Princess or Rope, flat or

cylindrical, lots of styles and motifs abound. Here

are some contemporary styles:

Box chain: - a chain with box like wide squares.

Byzantine chain: -a type of weave which is an old

world style and is a chain with round links which

create an intricate design that forms a tube. This

design is also called birdcage design, idiot box and

fool's dilemma.

Cable chain: - a chain with round links all of the

same size.

Curb chain: - a chain with oval links that are

twisted to lie flat.

Figaro chain: - a pretty popular design that has

two or three small round links with and long oval

link. This is a famous Italian design.Herringbone chain: - a chain with resembles fish

bones being thin, small and slanting links that lie flat. Also resembles a centipede.

Fob chain: - a thick chain with an ornamental pendant or seal or charm attached to it.

Mesh: - thin, delicate, gauzy looking mesh woven from very fine wire, resembling a fabric, like

chain.

Omega: - a chain that lies flat and is solid and heavy and the surface made up of thick links.


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Multilayered chain: - a number of thin delicate, soft and pliant chains all strung from two clasps

form a thick layered look.

These are some of the common styles of chains available and in no way does this write up sumup the gamut of designs available internationally.

Chain making machines

There are two main types of chain making machines. The cable machine and the curb chain

making machine.

Cable machine Process

The first step is to feed/introduce wire into a set of straightening rollers. It then passes into a

guide and a gripper section.

This chamber guides it into a chamber called 'stop'. In this section the wire length is measuredand the size of the link established. This is the first link of the chain. The next pierce of wire ismeasured and is passed through this first link to form a part of the chain. In this way links are

measured and made and interlocked. A cutter cuts the wire from the feed stock a forming toothslides out and pushes on the wire to shape it into a U. After the U is formed, a set of jaw like


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clamps holds the wire in place and closes the link to complete the shape. The link is given acomplete 90 degrees turnabout and the next link making process starts.

Curb Making Machine

At first the wire is introduced into a loop like tool. Ii is twisted and coiled into a spiral. As the

loop revolves the spiral wire is put through the previous loop.The loop is closed and a set of jaw like scissors snap and cuts off the spiral. This link is rotated

and the next spiral is made and this process continues till the desired length is acquired.

Snake Chain Making Machine

This machine makes chains from flat stock.

Ball Chain Making Machine

This machine is capable of making ball chains from both wire and flat stock.

Firago Chain Machine

This machine is able to make two sizes of link since it has two heads.

Platinum Chain making

Platinum chain making was not easy since it is a hard metal which is not easy to work with. For

many years only pliant metals like gold, silver, copper were made into chains. To full fill the

need for white metal was filled with white gold, rhodium plating or silver. During the nineties,

the demand for high end products like platinum was greatly desired and hence manufacturers

started finding ways to make platinum chains. Some started plating the wire with copper to

make it greasy and slippery as it passed through the machine. This was done so as not to hurt

the tools. After this the copper was laboriously stripped off the wire. It was time consuming and

not very profitable. So some manufacturers started chrome plating their tooling system. Today,

improved grades of carbide has eased the problems not cured it completely. Soldering the linksis another problem. Heat damages the color and matching the color is difficult. It also gets

tarnished.A number of methods were used to resolve the problem. The coming of the laser

welding machine is a boon. It is a clean weld as it is suited for the thermal grade of the

platinum.

Some chains are hand made. Glass beads, plastic and resin beads are strung by hand. Pearls are

also (mostly) hand strung. Bead made from organic material like wood, shell, bones, clay even

fake ivory are also hand fabricated. Some chains made from gold are also hand fabricated.


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Problems encountered

y Though machines do the elementary work the finished product has to be hand done.y The finished product is the result of skilled fingers and toiling hands as they decorate, set

and polish the chain to its final finished stage. Heat and soldering required for completing

the final product.

y Some chain designs like herring bone require a flattened profile and this has to be doneby rolling the chain on a rolling mill.

y Secondary operations are needed to make the chain loose and flexible in order to sitproperly around the neck.

y Decorations like diamond cut are added by using a special machine.y Tools will wear and tear.y Machines are expensive to maintain in tip top condition.y Some parts might not be easily available, especially if it's of an older machine.y It turns out to be expensive unless used for mass production.

Benefits of Chain making Machines

y Chains can be massed produced. Variety of designs can be made.y Complex chains can be made from stamped components which are bent and then

interlocked.y It allows the making of thin and light hollow chains.y Chains can be made in all karats of gold.y It saves time as a number of chains can be made quickly and accurately.y It is labor and cost effective.y In up to date modern machines, which are very expensive, links are automatically welded

by laser or micro plasma welding torch.

y Wires can be round, oval or square and can be used in machines with ease.

Thank you.

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Chain Making