Călimani National Park Visitor’s Guide · the Călimani National Park, by offering useful information about the natural heritage and the tourists routes to be pursued. Prior to

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Călimani National ParkVisitor’s Guide

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Introduction

The present guide was designed to assist nature lovers and mountain hiking enthusiasts who wish to visit the Călimani National Park, by offering useful information about the natural heritage and the tourists routes to be pursued.

Prior to touring the park we recommend studying this guide and and preparing adequate equipment in order to avoid any risk.

When visiting Călimani National Park visitor must observe Park rules.

The natural environment has become more and more vulnerable as a result of intensive human activities, which requires restricting activities in the Park in order to limit human interference.

Please contribute to its protection, not to its destruction!

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Content

PART I............................................................................................................7

What is the Călimani National Park?...................................................8Location...................................................................................................8Short History...............................................................................................9Physical and Geographical Framework..........................................9Geology............................................................................................9Geomorphology.........................................................................11Climate.........................................................................................12Hydrology.....................................................................................14Soil and Substratum...............................................................................15Flora and Vegetation..............................................................................16Fauna...............................................................................................20Landscapes......................................................................................24Historical Vestiges...................................................................................24Cultural Manifestations of the Past...................................................26Nedeea from Călimani.........................................................................26Entering Routes to the Călimani National Park............................27What Can One Visit in the Călimani National Park?.....................28Park divisions............................................................................................37How to prepare for the trip?.................................................................38Rules for visiting the Călimani National Park..................................39

PART II........................................................................................................43

A. Trails starting from Neagra Şarului Depression – Gura Haitii................................................................................................441. Trail: Gura Haitii – Pietrele Roșii – Dornișoara.............................442. Trail: Gura Haitii village – Poiana Izvoarelor – Pietrosu Călimani Peak – Reţitiş Peak – Iezerul Călimanilor Peak – Păltiniş Pass......483. Trail: Neagra Şarului village – 12 Apostles Peak – Poiana Izvoarele

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– Reţitiş Peak – Iezerul Călimanilor Peak – Neagra Şarului village...544. Trail: Vatra Dornei – Poiana Spânzului – Poiana Snopului – Apa Rece – Şaru Dornei village......................................................60B. Trails starting from Poiana Negri and Dornişoara................625. Trail: Dornişoara village – Izvoarele Dornei.............................636. Trail: Dornişoara village – Gura Haitii (See Trail No. 1)........657. Poiana Negri village – 12 Apostles Peak – Gura Haitii village – Călimanul Cerbului Peak – Coverca village.............................65C. Trails starting from Piatra Fântânele – Colibiţa....................728. Trail: Piatra Fântânele village – Poiana sub Măgură – Buba Peak – Terha Saddle – Poiana Dălbidanul – Viişoara Mountain – Bistriciorul Saddle – Tihului – Pietrosul Gorge.......................729. Trail: Colibiţa village – Colbul Valley – Bistriciorul Peak...76D. Trails starting from Mureşului Gorge..........................................7810. Trail: Bistra Mureşului – Bistra Valley – Valea din Mijloc (Middle Valley) – Poiana Cofu..............................................................................7811. Trail: Gura Cofu – Cofu Valley – Poiana Cofu.......................8012. Trail: Bistra Valley – Zăpodea cu Cale – Zăpodea Ursului......8013. Trail: Gălăoaia – Poiana Stegii – Zăpodea cu Podul – Bistra Valley...........................................................................................8114. Trail: Răstoliţa – Vişa Valley – Poiana Stegii...................8315. Trail: Secu Valley – Poiana Lungă – Tăul Zânelor................8416. Trail: Tihul Răstoliţei – Tihu Saddle.....................................8517. Trail: Rusca Valley – Tihu Peak..............................................8618. Trail: Sălard – La Sărăcin............................................................8719. Trail: Sălard – Poiana Obcinelor – Fântânel Valley – Lunca Bradului...................................................................................8820. Trail: Lunca Bradului – Ilva Mare Valley – Negoiu Saddle....8821. Trail: Tihul Ilvei – Tihu Peak.........................................................9022. Trail: Ilişoara Mare Valley – Cucumberţul Valley – Poiana Drăguş – Nicovala Saddle....................................................................9423. Traseu Stânceni – Valea Zebrac – Poiana Zebrac..................98E. Trails starting from Topliţa............................................................9924. Trail: Topliţa – Reţitiş Peak..........................................................99

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PART I

Călimani National Park

– protected natural area and a place of recreation

for the nature-friendly visitors –

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What is the Călimani National Park?The Călimani National Park is a protected natural area

whose purpose is the preservation of its ecosystems and species.

LocationI

It lies on a part of the Călimani Massif from the Oriental Carpathians, between 47°1’49.17’’ - 47° 14’51.70’’ north latitude and 25°0’19.92’’ - 25°19’47.11’’ east longitude. It occupies land in the Suceava, Mureş, Harghita and Bistriţa-Năsăud counties. It consists of the superior area of the Călimani Massif, which is the highest volcanic massif in the country, bordered on the east by the Păltiniş, Drăgoiasa, Bilbor and Secu Depressions, on the north by the Dornelor Depression and Bârgău Mountains, on the south by the Mureş Gorge and on the west by the Transylvania Plateau.

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Short History

The interest for preserving the values of the natural heritage in the Călimani Mountains was materialized in 1971 with the creation of the �� Apostoli (12 Apostles) Geological Reserve and the Jnepeniş with Pinus cembra Scientific Reserve. In the same year, the Călimani National Park was also declared, as such, having an area of 15,300 ha. As a result of mining exploration in the Călimani area, a unique phenomenon in the world, the volcanokarst, was discovered and described, for the first time, in Romania. The central point of this discovery was the grotto network Peşterile Luanei (Luana’s Caves), which were declared in 1973, a monument of nature. It was only in 2000 that the efforts of establishing the Călimani National Park began to take shape. It encompassed an area of 24041 ha.

Physical and Geographical Framework

The Călimani Massif belongs to the “andesitic arc”. The volcanic range lies on a foundation of Carpathian crystalline schists and Triasic sedimentary formations, deposits of the transcarpathian flisch and Miocene and Pannonian sedimentary formations. The volcanic range is made up of three geological units with a north-south orientation:

a) the central axial area consisting of andesitic and pyroclastic plateaus – dominated by volcanic cones;

b) the volcano-sedimentary area which surrounds the central area;

c) the lahar deposits situated between the aforementioned formations and the sedimentary ones from the eastern side of the Transylvania Depression.

Geology

Călimani National Park – Visitor’s Guide / PART I

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The main element of the Călimani is the caldera, with a diameter of approx. 10 km, initially formed as a result of a collapse process, conditioned by the decrease in pressure of the magma pocket of several connected emission centres: Căliman-Izvor, Voivodeasa, Reţitiş, Pietrosul, after the displacement of a considerable volume of fluid magma.

The highly silicified, kaolinised and limonitised agglomerates and tuffs from the Călimani caldera favoured the creation of Luana’s Caves, featuring metallic stalactites and stalagmites. Unfortunately, these caves were destroyed when the Călimani sulphur mine was opened.

View of Pietrosul Călimani and Pietricelul, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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The Călimani Mountains are higher than the Bârgău Mountains and the Transylvania Plateau. Three areas with distinctive aspect are to be found in the mountain region of Călimani:

a) highly dented interfluvial relief, modelled in volcanic agglomerates;

b) plateau – a pile of agglomerates and lava flows;

c) central caldera, surrounded by abrupt slopes and the cupola dominating the plateau.

The highest point is the Pietrosul Călimani Peak – 2,103 m, followed by Negoiul Unguresc – 2,081 m and by the other peaks: Pietricelul – 1,993 m, Reţitiş – 2,021 m, Bradului Ciont 1899 m, Căliman-Izvor – 2,031 m and Călimanul Cerbului – 2,013 m, Măieriş – 1,885 m, Tămăului – 1861 m, Pietrele Roşii – 1,705 m, Munceilor or Doisprezece Apostoli – 1,760 m, Lucaciu – 1,770 m, Mount Gruiu -1,882 m, Ruscii – 1,913 m, Ciungetu – 1,923 m, Strunioru – 1,885 m, Bistricioru – 1,989 m and Zurzugău – 1,907 m, and further north – Străcior – 1,963 m, Drăguşu – 1,768 m, Tihu – 1,799 m.

The volcanic plateau occupies the largest area, with heights between 1,300 and 1,600 m, stretching around the central Negoiu Unguresc – Pietrosul Massif, especially to the west. Flat surfaces are predominant, set as giant stairs, with valleys that open to springs and give the appearance of a gorge with a montainous background.

Some peaks display rocky formations, which display zoomorphic or anthropomorphic features, depending on the viewer’s position. “Moşul” (Old Man) is the most spectacular of the 12 Apostoli rock formations, having three different facets.

Geomorphology


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The weather in the Călimani is cold and moderately dry. Through height, slope exposure and inclination, the relief plays an important role in the meteorological processes.

There is a great diversity of air masses covering this territory:

polar maritime air – holds the highest annual frequency, peaking in spring and reaching its lowest point in autumn. These air masses by rising up the slopes, often lead to foehn phenomena in the area.

polar continental air – these air masses usually occur during autumn, bringing about nice, stable weather in September and October.

arctic air – has a much lower frequency, occurring noticeably in December and January. During the spring-summer months, its presence is only accidental. It produces the most drastic cooling during winter.

Climate

View of the 12 Apostoli Rocks, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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maritime tropical air – not frequent at all, occurring especially during August, brings about high temperatures and warm rains.

continental-tropical air – these air masses are more frequent and occur during August. They bring about the estival periods with the highest temperatures, when maxima are recorded. In case of totally accidental occurrences during winter, they produce the so-called “warm windows”, quite frequent phenomena lately.

The annual average temperature is between 2.4 and 4.0°C. The annual thermal amplitudes range between 15.1 and 24.9°C. In the mountainous area, snow masses slow down spring warming. Also, autumns are warmer.

The area is covered by snow between 139 and 208 days a year. The quantity of precipitation ranges between 97 and 502 mm. The annual precipitation quantity is highly variable, the fluctuations extending between 579 and 1,653 mm. The multi-annual average is 1,022 mm. The month with the highest rainfall is July (198.2 mm) and the one with the lowest is November (33.5 mm).

Clouds above Reţitiş, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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The waters of the Călimani Massif contribute to the supply of the Someş, Mureş and Bistriţa Rivers. The Neagra Şarului River springs under Voievodeasa and Bradul Ciont from an altitude of 1,700 m; it has numerous tributaries: Reţiţiş, Pietricelul, Dumitrelul, Tarniţa, Paltinul, Hârla, Băuca, Ţiganului Brook and Haitii Brook. Neagra Șarului flows into the Bistrița River after passing through the homonymous valley.

The Dorna River and its tributaries flow along the northern part, springing from an altitude of 1,760 m, under the Gruiu Peak, eventually flowing into the Bistrița River at the town of Vatra Dornei. Its most important tributaries are: Bârsanul and Voroava, with springs under the Măieriş Peak and Dornişoara – under the Cornii Hill. The southern slopes of the Călimani Mountains supply the Mureș River: the Bistra River with springs under the Cofii Hill and has Stegea, Zapodea, Calul and Bidireasa as affluents; the Răstoliţa Brook consisting of Secu and Tihu; the drainage basin of the Ilva River with its tributaries Tihu on the right and Ilişoara Mare, Ilişoara Mică and Unguraşul on the left. The Transylvanian segment of the Bistriţa River collects the waters from the western side of the Zurzugău, Bistricior, Străcior, Dalbidan, Tomnatec, Buba and Cornului Hill. The Bistriţa flows into the Şieu River, which later joins the Someşul Mare River. There is only one lake in the Călimani National Park, the Reţiţiş Iezer (mountain lake), a barrier lake which is also where the Puturosul Brook originates.

Hydrology

Păltiniş Brook, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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The soils are distinguished by the type of substratum underlying them and by the type of facies developing on top of them.

The lithosols or the podzolic soils with lithic features are to be found under the blanket of herbal vegetation and Ericaceae specific to the subalpine and alpine regions. They are shallow, with widths of 8-25 cm, rarely occurring deeper, but sufficiently permeable, with a good coefficient for air and water, which makes them suitable for the vegetal facies, reflected in the general view of local landscapes.

Districambosols from the class of cambisols, prepodzols, but also humo-ferric podzols from the class of spodosols, lie under the spruce or spruce-beech forests and the plateau grassfields; these are found in the area of the caldera as well. The first two types have Andean traits. These soils are moderately acid with a 4.5-5.2 pH.

The sunny and mild slopes of the southern volcanic plateau and the slope that opens towards the Colibiţa Depression are covered with beech-fir tree forests that stand on typical brown forest soils. They are humid and rich in mull humus with low trophicity and with acid to slightly acid reaction.

Peat soils or histosols can be found in areas limited to a few tens of hectars in the eastern, southern and partially north-western volcanic plateau.

Soil and Substratum

Forest in Dornişoara, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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The fact that the Călimani Massif belongs to the group of volcanic mountains explains why the flora elements here are not as numerous as in the mountains with predominantly calcareous and dolomitic rocks. This is counterbalanced by a comprehensive ecosystemic and phytogeographical interest.

In the 19th century, foreign researchers and relatively few Romanian botanists studied floristic aspects of the Bucovina and Transylvania regions and, implicitly, the Călimani Massif, situated at the border of the two. Besides the floristic overview, the papers also include some taxonomic, ecological and phytogeographical remarks.

In Transylvania, Baumgarten published in 1816, Enumeratio stirpium Magno Transsilvaniae Principatui, an extremely valuable paper, considered to be a reference work for subsequent botanical studies. The route chosen by the author includes the Călimani Mountains with the ridges included in the alpine area: “Bistriciensibus – puta Gruiulo; Struniorlui; Haita; Gura Haiti nec non Pietrosului”. As you may notice, the name of Călimani does not appear, however some toponyms from these mountains are mentioned: Gruiu, Strunior, Pietrosu, Gura Haiti.

Between 1836 and 1865, specialty papers referring to extensive territories in Bucovina, among other regions farther away, like Galicia, were published, including herbaristic collection.

Flora and Vegetation

Rhododendron bushes, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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Numerous studies in different branches of botany followed. Studies on micromycetes, especially the parasitic ones, showed that there were 60 species belonging to the Mastigomycotina class, 44 to Basidiomycotina, 61 to Deuteromycotina. Among these, one genus – Desmopatella, 20 species of micromycete and 26 combinations fungus-host plant were first cited in the Romanian mycological flora.

There are 89 species, 2 subspecies, 8 varieties and 9 forms of lichens, among which: a new species for our country Coccynia aeruginosa, 3 varieties: Toninia coeruleonigricans –subcandida var., Cladonia cornuto-radiata subulata., Lecanora atra. montana var.

As far as bryophytes are concerned, there were reports on 77 species of moss in the Călimani Massif, among which the following are very important: Gymnomitrium conncinatum, Bazzania tricrenata, Ptilidium ciliare, Crimmia incurva, Taylaria serrata. Complex ecological studies carried out on vegetal formations in the massif added to the already known types 27 more species and 7 more varieties, their number finally reaching 104 species and 7 varieties.

Close-up of mosses, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

Lichen colony, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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Superior plants include 774 taxons, belonging to 82 families. From a numerical point of view of the species, the most important are the following families: Caryophyllaceae, Ranunculaceae, Brassicaceae, Rosaceae, Fabaceae, Apiaceae, Lamiaceae, Scrophulariaceae, Asteraceae, Cyperaceae and Poaceae.

The structure of the vegetation in the Călimani Mountains is the result of influences by the substratum, the relief, the soil, climate and human activity. The following units are characteristic to the area:

Alpine grasslands and shrublands, represented by one unit: medium European alpine grasslands with: Carex curvula, Oreochloa disticha, Juncus trifidus, Festuca varia, Nardus stricta, low shrublands with Loisleuria procumbens and lichens on silica rocks. It is spread on limited areas at altitudes higher than 2,000 m, developing on very acid, shallow, skeletal soils with low trophicity.

Subalpine shrublands, glades and grasslands, represented by the Hercynian and north-Carpathian mountain pine shrublands unit – Pinus mugo: glades with Larix decidua, Pinus cembra, Picea abies, with Rhododendron myrtifolium and Alnus viridis. It spreads on high mountains, between 1,400 and 1,850 m.

Mesophile and hydromesophile resinous and deciduous-resinous forests with the unit called East and south-Carpathian spruce forests partially with Abies alba, with Leucanthemum waldsteinii, Hieracium rotundatum, spread between 900-1,750 m, on medium deep to deep, non-skeletal to skeletal soils, with a normal hydric cycle, of the brown podzolic type.

Mesophile deciduous and deciduous – resinous forests with the following unit: Carpathian fir and beech forests with Cardamine glanduligera, partially with Symphitum cordatum, between 700-1,400 m, on brown acid, typical eu-mesobasic, deep brown podzolic soils, non-skeletal to low skeletal, with a normal hydric cycle, often pseudogley.


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Spruce forest in the Neagra Basin, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

Bilberry bush from the Scientific Reserve, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


Mixed woods at the bottom of Negoiu, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

Alpine grassland with bellflowers, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

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In general, the fauna of the Călimani Mountains have not been the object of study of Romanian and foreign researchers. However, between 1980-1990 there was a special interest in the fauna of edaphic arthropods and also a few ornithological observations were made.

Among the invertebrates, the edaphic microarthropods have been extensively studied. In intermediary forests and subalpine and alpine shrublands, 236 species of microarthropods have been identified. The existing species are characteristic to Romanian coniferous forests, with some additional species from the European boreal region: Camisia lapponica, Heminothrus humicola – Oribatida, Zercon curiosus – Gomasida, Pseudonurophorus binoculatus, Folosomia sexoculata, Arrhopalites principalis – Colembola. The oribatid fauna of the habitats in the high area of Călimani is heterogenous, rich and structurally different from the fauna of other Romanian alpine and subalpine regions; two new species have been identified – Neotrichoppia getica and Lauroppia distincta, as well as three species present only in the Alps are recorded here – Metrioppia helvetica, Chamobates alpinus and Anachipteria alpina. Among the Gamasida order, five new species are novelties for the field, having been previously described in Giumalău and Slătioara: Discourella alpina, Epicrius magnus, Zercon blaszaki, Zercon silvii, Urobonella bucovinensis. Except for the Collembola found in intermediary spruce forests, studied in the papers on edaphic fauna, information about other orders of insects is extremely scarce. 31 species of Plecoptera and 36 species of Coleoptera have been observed in the field.

Among fish, the following specimens have been observed in the brooks flowing from the massif: trout – Salmo trutta fario, minnow – Phoxinus phoxinus and bullhead – Cottus gobio.

The Amphibia class is represented by 8 species: Triturus alpestris Laur – mountain newt and T. montandoni Bouleng – Carpathian newt, endemic to the Carpathians, Bombina bombina L. – fire-bellied toad, Bombina

Fauna


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variegata L. – yellow-bellied toad, Rana temporaria L. – European common frog, Salamandra salamandra L. – salamander in the areas of Voievodeasa, Izvorul Călimani, Piciorul Iancului, Haita, Reţitiş.

Among the Anura, two are cited in the annex II from the Habitats Guideline: Bombina bombina and Bombina variegata, as species of community interest, whose conservation requires the marking of special habitat areas. Also, these species appear in the annex IV, species of community interest which require strict protection.

5 species of reptiles have been identified, belonging to two suborders – Lacertilia and Ophidia. The two species of existing snakes in the Park are: the viper – Vipera berus L. and the smooth snake – Coronella austriaca Laur. Among lizards, one may see: the European common lizard Lacerta agilis L, mountain lizard – Lacerta vivipara Jacq. and the slowworm – Anguis fragilis L.

European common frog, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

European common adder, Photo: Dan Grigoroaea


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Females capercaillie towards Negoiul Românesc, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


Coronella austriaca and Lacerta agilis are listed in the annex IV of the Habitats Guideline as species which require strict protection.

The Aves Class – As a result of field observations, 68 species of birds were identified only in the Dorna basin. The data provided by the Milvus Group for the entire Călimani Massif reveal 108 nesting, migratory or passing species, among which 25 are mentioned in the annex I of the Birds Guideline.

In the treeless alpine zone, abundant fructification in billberry and cranberry attracts species from the spruce forest or from the mountain pine shrubs. The water pipit – Anthus spinoletta L. – and the Alpine accentor – Prunella collaris Scop. nest here. Birds such as the black redstart – Phoenicurus ochruros Gmel, the common raven – Corvus corax L. – and the kestrel – Falco tinnunculus L. nest in the cracks of the rocks. During the warm season, the northern wheatear – Oenanthe oenanthe L., the white and gray wagtails – Motacilla alba L. şi Motacilla cinerea L. climb up to the height of the treeless alpine zone.

Species of birds such as the warbler – Phylloscopus collybita Vieillot, the ring ouzel Turdus torquatus L., the Eurasian wren – Troglodytes troglodytes L., the robin – Erithacus rubecula L., the tree pipit – Anthus trivialis L., the dunnock – Prunella modularis L. – advance from the forest area to the mountain pine shrublands. Some diurnal birds of prey have been observed flying at great heights: the hen harrier – Circus cyaneus L., the peregrine falcon – Falco peregrinus Tuns., the goshawk –

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Deer in Dornişoara, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


Accipiter gentilis L., the lesser spotted eagle – Aquila pomarina Bhrem, the common buzzard – Buteo buteo L..

One must also mention the wood grouse – Tetrao urogallus L., a bird that can be seen in the old spruce forests in the Park.

Mammals are represented by the large carnivors: the bear – Ursus arctos L., the wolf – Canis lupus L., the lynx – Lynx lynx L., the mustelidae: the otter – Lutra lutra L., the pine marten – Martes martes L., the badger – Meles meles L., and also the wildcat – Felis silvestris Schrb. They are at the top of the trophic pyramid, representing the chain of specialized hunters. The herbivore mammals found here are: the roe deer – Capreolus capreolus L, the red deer – Cervus elaphus L. and the wild boar – Sus scrofa L.

Some rodents are: the edible dormouse – Glis glis L., the hazel dormouse – Muscardinus avellanarius L., the wood mouse – Apodemus sylvaticus, the alpine shrew – Sorex alpinus Schinz.

Species of bats live in the Park forests: the brown long-eared bat – Plecotus auritus L. and the parti-coloured bat – Vespertilio murinus L..

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The main landscape units are:a) the volcanic caldera, impressive, with a diameter of

more than 10 km, bordered by peaks higher than 2,000 m;b) the alpine grasslands, which are rocky, with species

of acidophilic plants, with islands of mountain pine and rhododendron, are genuine treasures of the Park. During summer, the anthropic element is present here: the shepherds with their flocks. In the area Pietrele Roşii – 12 Apostoli, mountain pine is replaced by juniper;

c) the very beautiful silica screes;d) mixed and coniferous forests up to the treeless alpine

zone;e) mountain pine and juniper shrubs that mark

the transition between intermediary forests and matgrass pastures;

f) human made landscape – the former sulphur mine with a major negative impact; large surfaces stripped as a result of exploited wind-fallen trees before the creation of the protected area can be seen on the southern slope of Bistricioru, Strunioru and Tihu Peaks.

Landscapes

The discovery in July 1987 of the megaliths in Călimani entailed the inclusion of the Carpathians in the “megalithic civilization” area. A megalith with engravings is located in Paltinul Valley – Gura Haitii village, 27 km south-east from Vatra Dornei. It was found relatively close to the zoomorphic and anthropomorphic representations from Piciorul Hârlei and 12 Apostles Reserve. This megalith is large in size and has a generally irregular shape, with a height of 135 cm, a width of 92 cm and weighing over 1.5 tons. The block shows obvious signs of human modification, visible through the detachment of the two shoulders from the engraved faces. Still preserved today are scars on the rock faces in the area where the megalith was quarried.

Historical Vestiges


�� Călimani National Park – Visitor’s Guide / PART I

View over Reţitiş, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

Mountain pine glade with Swiss pine and spruce, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

Screes under Nicovala, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

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From ancient times, the nedeeas (peasant parties) have served precise economic and political purposes, having a speci-fic and varied structure, clear and complex social functions.

The nedeea from Călimani was a nationalist manifestation of Romanians from the three historical provinces: Bucovina, Moldavia and Transylvania.

Romanians from the marginal areas of the three provinces gathered every year for a few days. The nedeea took place not far from the “12 Apostoli” Natural Reserve, around the border milestone between Bucovina, Moldavia and Transylvania. In the old days these large gatherings of people bore the name “Moşi” (old men), and the access roads to the mountain were called “Calea Moşilor” (the path of the old men), but between 1775-1918 and afterwards, the place came to be known as: “La triconfinii”, “La acvila mare”, usually “La nedee” or „La Lucaciu”.

In the days right before the nedeea, the slopes of the surrounding mountains would become places for celebration. The mountain called its Romanians from hilltops, shaded footpaths and valleys and the people wore picturesque national costumes, as they were driven by the unquenched desire to see their brethren again. Food for the great celebration and various products that would be exchanged later were carried on horses. Many of the participants came with cattle and fowls of the most renowned breeds with the purpose of gaining profit from exchanges.

In this – briefly-described – setting, every year on the 29th of June, the nedeea was declared open in the presence of thousands of Romanians. Often, the community would buy and slaughter cattle on the spot so that traditional food could be prepared in the blaze of the fires. The party would sometimes last the entire night. The beauty of the nocturnal landscape, of the nedeea from long ago remained edged in the memory of many a generation. Friendships were forged and revisited, many weddings were held there, too, especially in the first part

Cultural Manifestations of the Past – Nedeea from Călimani


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of the celebration.During the horas when hundreds of Romanians, often

everybody would join in, songs and calls for the fight for national state unity were often heard. The last phase of the nedeea was dedicated exclusively to an intensive exchange of products. The last nedeea in the Călimani Mountains is supposed to have taken place in 1914.

The access roads to the Călimani National Park are: a) European road E576 overlapping DN17 (national road)

Suceava – Vatra Dornei – Bistriţa-Năsăud, up to Vatra Dornei then DN17B up to Gura Negrii, after which, following the county road to Neagra Şarului one reaches the entrance point in Gura Haitii;

b) E-road E576 overlapping DN17 Suceava – Vatra Dornei – Bistriţa-Năsăud, up to Vatra Dornei then DN17B up to Gura Negrii, after which, following the county road to Panaci one reaches Drăgoiasa or Păltiniş;

c) E-road E576 overlapping DN17 Suceava – Vatra Dornei – Bistriţa-Năsăud, up to Dorna Candrenilor, after which, following the local and forest road to Poiana Negrii one reaches the entrance point in Poiana Negrii;

d) E-road E576 overlapping DN17 Suceava – Vatra Dornei – Bistriţa-Năsăud, up to Poiana Stampei, after which, following the local and forest road, one reaches Dornişoara;

e) national road DN15 Tulgheş – Topliţa – Răstoliţa – Deda, up to Topliţa, after which, one follows the local road to “La Monument” and then the forest road to Gura Voivodesei and Poiana Puturosu;

f) national road DN15 Tulgheş – Topliţa – Răstoliţa – Deda, to Lunca Bradului;

g) national road DN15 Tulgheş – Topliţa – Răstoliţa – Deda, to Răstoliţa;

h) E-road E576 overlapping DN17 Suceava – Vatra Dornei – Bistriţa-Năsăud, up to Mureşenii Bârgăului, after which, following the local and forest road, one reaches Colibiţa.

Entering Routes to the Călimani National Park


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Călimani National Park is an important point of outdoor and recreational activities in the area, together with Dorna Depression in the north, Borsec resort in the east and the Mures Gorge to the south.

The Dornelor Depression – the town of Vatra Dornei – is a major tourist attraction. Every year tourists visit the Vatra Dornei resorts (also called “The Pearl of Bucovina”) for medical-curative purposes, as well as for recreation. During the winter the two ski slopes in the area are major attrations for winter sports enthusiasts. As far as religious tourism is concerned, the town represents a good departure point for visiting the monasteries in Moldavia, Bucovina or Maramureş, the majority of which are included in the UNESCO World Heritage List.

The Mureş Gorge, between Topliţa and Deda is a beautiful route carved by the Mureş River through the Călimani and Gurghiu Mountains. The gorge has a parallel route for auto and train transportation. It was here that the Superior Mureş Gorge Natural Park was created.

A special attraction is the cast cave “Căsoaia lui Ladaș” in the Toplița-Deda Gorge. It is situated between Răstolița and Lunca Bradului, at the easternmost point of the Androneasa village. The cave was formed in volcanic rock over 5 million years ago.

One may also visit the Carmelite Skete of Nuns Sf. Cruce in the Stânceni village, a Greek-catholic skete of the byzantine rite, one of the 6 of this kind in the entire world; the monasteries Sf. Ilie and Doamnei, both in Topliţa; the Ethnographical Museum in Deda; the village museums in Idicel-Pădure and Săcalu de Pădure, both belonging to the Brâncoveneşti village; the old churches in the settlements along the gorge – the Evangelical Church in Ideciu de Jos; the Tulip Reserve in Vălenii de Mureş; the marsh calla lilies in the Ciobotani village; the Stânceni

What Can One Visit in the Călimani National Park?


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commune; the Kemény Castle in the Brâncoveneşti village.The mountain resort Borsec, famous for its mineral water

resources, situated in the eastern part of the Park, is an important tourist attraction with tourist facilities.


Towards the cast cave Căsoaia lui Ladaş, Photo: Cristin Cireş

Detail on exterior fresco painting at Moldovița Monastery, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

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As seen in the previous discussion, the Călimani National Park is centrally positioned, as a strategic tourist element through the beauty of its landscapes and through the tourist services provided. There are three reserves in the Park, among which two are the main attraction for groups of mountain tourists or individual travelers:

a) The Geological Reserve “12 Apostoli” – a ruin-like relief similar to statues created in the realm of fairy tales. They include: “Moşul” (the old man), “Godzila”, “Mareşalul” (the marshal), “Mucenicul” (the martyr) or “Guşterul” (the green lizard);

b) Pietrele Roşii (the red rocks) – a place with an impressive history of the tripartite border fights. It is called triplex confinium, which is Latin for crossroads between three states;

c) Cetăţile Tihului (the Tihu citadels) – sparse mountain peaks that appear as the walls of citadels, taking the tourists breath away with their beauty and untouched wilderness.


Tihului Rocks, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

�0 �� Călimani National Park – Visitor’s Guide / PART I

Waterfall on the Tihu Brook, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

d) The Tihu and Băuca Waterfalls – offer an amazing view and places for relaxation for hikers;

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e) The Natural Reserve “Iezerul Călimanului” – a barrier lake surrounded by subalpine vegetation with mountain pine and juniper attracts tourists interested in experiencing diverse environments;

f) The ridge trail through the Pietrosu Peak – offers ethereal images of the entire volcanic caldera in the Călimani. It is the highest point in these mountains.


Alpine grassland in the Şaua Negoiului, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

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g) The blossoming of the rhododendron in the Reţitiş area – represents a genuine festival of nature. The mountain turns red, the contrast with the surrounding rocks and alpine vegetation creates unforgettable images;


Rhododendron bushes under Reţitiș, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

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h) The show of deergrunting in September-October and wood grouse hunting in April offer special attractions for those who wish to experience and understand nature’s secrets in the mountains;


Buck and doe at the beginning of October, Photo: Liviu Huţanu

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i) The encrusted megaliths discovered in the area of the Paltinul Brook in the Călimani offer a challenge to the uninitiated and reflect the still undiscovered part of the mythology in the 12 Apostoli. The Lucaciu area in particular, is a place where believers can replenish their spirit with considerable sources of bioenergy.

For tourists, the Administration of Călimani National Park offers a variety of package deals in addition to the usual tourist activities in the region. They include:

a) Equestrian tourism in the Călimani Mountains, an appealing activity with several packages based on levels of difficulty which vary in length from two hours to six days, and include professional mountain guides and equipment. The horses are of the “Huţul” breed, perfectly adapted to mountain rides;


Horses on the 12 Apostoli theme trail, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

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b) “Photo-safari” expeditions are organized periodically by the Park Administration for people who wish to explore the surroundings, experience nature and with the help of professionals, learn new things about the area and about the impressive diversity of plants and animals;

c) Junior Ranger camps teach children and adults alike how to experience the mountain and respect preserve the environment.


Pupils discovering the history of volcanoes, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

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Several areas with different protection levels have been assigned, in order to ensure a better administration of the protected natural area. These are determined based on the location of highly valued zones with great biodiversity, and also on the function of the terrain and on the degree of animal and human influx.

�. The strictly protected area, having a surface of 1,128 hectares in all, covers wild zones with very limited anthropic influence or none at all. The Jnepeniş Scientific Reservation spreads over 384.2 hectares and it contains Pinus cembra, mainly spruce fir and Swiss pine in a natural or semi-natural state. All human activity is prohibited in this area, except research, educational and ecotourism activities, as they are described in the management plan. The restrictions apply to the area containing the underbrush on the outskirts, the juniper trees and rhododendron upstream from the scientific reservation and up to the peak Iezerul Călimani – Bradul Ciont – Reţitiş – Pietricelu – Negoiu Unguresc.

�. The completely protected area: has an area of 15,000 hectares and comprises the most valuable assets of the patrimony within the reservation, including forests, meadows, juniper and rhododendron. Aside from the perimeter of the scientific reservation which is strictly protected, the rest of the area is open to scientific and educational activities; ecotourism is also allowed as long as it does not involve construction work. The meadows are also available for grazing and general use.

3. The sustainable preservation area covers a surface of almost 8,000 hectares, linking the completely protected areas to the zones of sustainable development. It contains forests or meadows affected by anthropic, tourist or mining actions. This area is open to ecotourism, beside scientific and educational activities, as long as it does not involve construction.

Park divisions


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The pastures are available for grazing and other general use. Other allowable actions include those intended to protect the forest, or prevent the proliferation of non-native destructive species. Traditional activities are also permitted if they involve renewable resource and are within the capacity of the ecosystems. Other additional activities may be allowed, provided they do not violate laws protecting the natural areas.

In order for your trip to be as pleasant an experience as possible, please make sure you carefully read our recommendations and the rules to follow when sightseeing through the protected natural area.

Recommendations for the trip:Wear an appropriate outfit: mountain boots, raincoat,

spare dry clothes, backpack; flashlight, tent, sleeping bag, camping stove, according to the lenghts of your itinerary and the duration of your stay;

First-aid kit;Map, compass;Non-perishable food, natural stimulants such as sweet and

dry fruit like walnut or other types of nuts, etc;Water (there are usually very few water streams on high

altitude itineraries).

How to prepare for the trip?


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Tourist and educational activities are allowed within the Călimani National Park, as long as they comply with the visiting rules. Tourist activities are not allowed in strictly protected areas such as the “Jnepeniş cu Pinus cembra” Preserve.

Access to the Scientific Preserve “Jnepeniş cu Pinus cembra” (Juniper and Pinus Cembra) is only allowed based on authorization granted by the Administration of the Călimani National Park. Access will be exclusively granted to researchers, biologists and other specialists in fields tangent to environmental preservation, to students in those fields and to study and practice groups. These groups will have no more than � members and they will be accompanied by a representative of the Călimani National Park.

Sightseeing in the Călimani National Park is only allowed on conventionally marked paths;

Camping is permitted in designated areas;

Lighting fires in the Călimani National Park is allowed under the following conditions:

a. They will be started only in the special hearths found within the camping areas. Only dead wood on the ground is to be used. Please follow the regulations for preventing and putting out fires;

b. It is strictly prohibited to pick up and deforest the woody vegetation of any kind in order to start fires;

c. Fires cannot be started in open areas or in the forest, except in places particularly set up by the Park administrator.

Rules for visiting the Călimani National ParkII:


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While around the mountain or in camping areas without a pre-set hearth, only camping stoves are allowed.

While in the Călimani National Park, this is how to handle waste:

a. It is strictly prohibited to leave waste of any kind within the Călimani National Park;

b. Tourists are required to remove the waste they generate while visiting the Park;

c. Waste is to be discarded outside the Park, only in the places set up for waste disposal;

It is prohibited to chop the juniper, set it on fire or damage it in any way.

It is prohibited to cut down, break or uproot trees, saplings or sprouts and also to grab those fallen to the ground due to natural phenomena.

Unless specifically authorized by the Călimani National Park Administration, it is prohibited to destroy, damage or collect for commercial purposes mushrooms, berries, plants, animals, rocks or any sample of natural origin from within the Călimani National Park.

Only leashed dogs will be allowed in the Călimani National Park. Dog owners will have to submit the dog’s health certificate to prove proper vaccination.

Noise pollution of any kind (yelling, fire crackers, use of audio equipment, etc) is strictly prohibited.

It is prohibited to destroy or damage the informational panels and signs, the boards, poles and markings along the hiking paths.

It is strictly prohibited to damage the shelters, bridges or any other construction or setting within the Park.

Bathing and detergent use is prohibited in the flowing waters and in the mountain lakes.

It is prohibited to use any sailing equipment on the mountain lakes.


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Access with motor vehicles or bikes will be regulated by the Călimani National Park Administration along with the owners or administrators of the infrastructure present within the Călimani National Park.


Towards the Pietrosul Călimani Peak, Photo: Cristian Maxim

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Călimani National Park– official trails –

PART II

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�. Gura Haitii – Pietrele Roşii (Red Stones) – Dornişoara�. Gura Haitii – Poiana Izvoarelor – Pietrosu Călimani Peak – Reţitiş Peak – Iezerul Călimanilor Peak – Păltiniş Pass�. Neagra Şarului – �� Apostoli (�� Apostles) Peak – Poiana Izvoarele – Reţitiş Peak – Iezerul Călimanilor Peak – Neagra Şarului village�. Vatra Dornei – Poiana Spânzului – Poiana Snopului – Apa Rece – Şaru Dornei commune

A. Trails starting from Neagra Şarului Depression – Gura Haitii

Marking: Blue crossDifficulty: moderateDuration: 7-8 hAccess roads: Departure: Take the European road E576, overlapping with the national road DN17 Suceava – Vatra Dornei – Bistriţa-Năsăud, to Vatra Dornei, then DN 17B to Gura Negrii, and then the county road towards Neagra Şarului up to Gura Haitii;Arrival: Dornişoara, on the local and forest road, then enter the European road E576 at Poiana Stampei, overlapping with the national road DN17 Suceava – Vatra Dornei – Bistriţa-Năsăud.

The trail starts from the bus station in Gura Haitii, following the forest road (Haita forest road) on an easy walk for about 20 minutes.

The road is bordered on the right side by the Haita Brook, with typical stream bank vegetation, long weeds, predominantly with large butterbur leaves (Petasites hybridus), leopard’s bane bushes (Doronicum austriacum), comfrey (Symphytum

1. Trail: Gura Haitii – Pietrele Roșii – Dornișoara

Călimani National Park – Visitor’s Guide / PART II

�� Călimani National Park – Visitor’s Guide / PART II

Wood sorrel, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

Leopard’s bane, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

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cordatum) and hairy chervil (Chaerophyllum hirsutum). The trail then leads through the spruce forest, on a two-

hour climb. There are some ascents (35-40 degrees slope), but also flat glades in the forest, where you can rest. The forest is home to different species of animals and plants. If you keep still and are patient enough, you might get to see wood grouses, hazel hens or singing birds. Deer can also be spotted. As you approach the peak, you might cross paths with animals from the sheep farm (stână). In the Călimani National Park, grazing is only allowed in the pastures found in the higher areas.

The effort finally pays off with a gentle view of the 12 Apostles Reserve to the north, and of the Red Stones to the south. There is also a marked resting place with fresh water.

Follow the trail marking for about 15 minutes through the meadow filled with matgrass (Nardus stricta), violets (Viola declinata), juniper (Juniperus communis ssp. nana), blueberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) and lingonberry or mountain-cranberry (Vaccinium vitis-idaea) shrubs, to get to Pietrele Roşii Peak (1,705 m). A wonderful view opens towards the Neagra Valley and the peaks of the volcanic caldera.

The trail then follows the ridge for about 2 hours, through glades of spruce and juniper, coming close to the Tamău Peak (1861 m), which marks the border between the Neagra Valley and the larger basin of the Dorna River. The trail continues on a light path, on the ridge, for about 30 minutes, then heads west towards Dornișoara, for a one-hour walk through shadowy spruce forests with various species of moss and mushrooms, wood sorrel (Oxalis acetosella) and blueberry bushes, until leaving the area of the Călimani National Park and entering the Voroava forest road.

The road continues for about 2 hours to Dornișoara village.


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Violets, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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The starting point for this trail, namely the bus station in Gura Haitii, is easy to spot. The trail follows the Haita Brook, towards its origins. Take the Haita forest road that leads to the entrance of the park. Here you can observe a number of plants that thrive well in humid conditions: butterbur (Petasites hybridus), monkshood (Aconitum firmum), leopard’s bane (Symphytum cordatum), meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria), wood club-rush (Scirpus sylvaticus), etc. In the summer, you can easily take pictures of the numerous colourful butterflies that lie in the sun.

From the entrance of the park, the trail meanders through a spruce forest for about 30 minutes, protecting travellers from the heat of the sun.

Chanterelles (Cantharelus cibarius), ceps (Boletus edulis) and brittlegills (Russula spp.) randomly arise from the thick cover of dried moss and needles. Ferns display their feathery leaves here and there. The forest slowly thins out and a wide meadow, bordered by ridges, opens in front.

Poiana Izvoarelor is a great resting place and campsite before starting off on the ascent to highest point of the Park. There is

2. Trail: Gura Haitii village – Poiana Izvoarelor – Pietrosu Călimani Peak – Reţitiş Peak – Iezerul Călimanilor Peak – Păltiniş Pass

Marking: Red crossDifficulty: difficultDuration: 16 hAccess roads: Departure: Take the European road E576, overlapping with the DN17 Suceava – Vatra Dornei – Bistriţa-Năsăud, to Vatra Dornei, then DN17B to Gura Negrii, then the county road towards Neagra Şarului up to Gura Haitii, and from here follow the forest road to Izvoarele Haitii (Haitii Springs);Arrival: Păltiniș village, take the county road towards Panaci, then enter DN 17B to Gura Negrii, taking the European road E576, which overlaps with DN17 Suceava – Vatra Dornei – Bistriţa-Năsăud.


�� Călimani National Park – Visitor’s Guide / PART II

Ceps, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

Meadowsweet, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

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access to water sources all year round and we strongly advise you to take enough water for the rest of the trip with you.

Follow the trail marking for one hour along the watercourse, through a gallery of green alder (Alnus viridis) and rocks, with a more abrupt part towards the top. Mountain pines (Pinus mugo) cover the rocky slopes, bordered by random islands of rhododendron (Rhododendron myrtifolium), lingonberry (Vaccinium vitis- idaea) and bog bilberry (Vaccinium uliginosum). There are various plants with colourful flowers to see: dwarf primrose (Primula minima), alpine bellflower (Campanula alpina), speedwell (Veronica baumgartenii), and cinquefoils (Potentilla ternata).

Pietrosul Călimani Peak (2,103 m) is the highest place in the Park, and, at the same time, the highest peak of volcanic origin in Romania. After a few minutes walk on the loose rocks of the scree, you reach the cross. If you want, you can leave a message to the staff of the park in the notebook found in the metal case.

The peak of the trip calls for a well-deserved stop for resting, taking photos and looking beyond the cliffs of the surrounding mountains. Rodnei Mountains can be seen to the northwest, while the end of the Western range of the Călimani caldera appear close by, with the following peaks: Străcior, Zurzugău, Bistriciorul and Struniorul. More to the south: Gruiu, Măieriș and Tamău. To the southeast you can see Negoiul Românesc, which was stripped by mining, and the Ilva mine dump – an old scar on these mountains. Some plants find their way through the rock boulders: golden root (Rhodiola rosea), hoary groundsel (Senecio carniolicus), and alpine mouse-ear (Cerastium alpinum).

Pay great attention when climbing down the cliff. The trail continues for about 30 minutes on the ridge, towards Negoiul Unguresc (2,081 m), the second highest peak of the Călimani Mountains. Clumps of true grasses and harebell (Campanula rotundifolia ssp. polymorpha) and shrubs of mountain pine and bilberry cross our path. This is an area with rather strong winds all year round. A further difficult part is the descent to the Ilva mine dump, which is characterized by screes with loose stones and labyrinths of mountain pine and juniper. The Neagra Valley


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Alpine bellflowers, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

Golden root, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

Hoary groundsel, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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opens to the east, and the Ilva Basin, in Mureș county, to the west. Once you arrive in Șaua Negoiului (Negoiu Saddle), you can rest. This is one of the few places with water supply. The trail then passes through the former Călimani opencast sulphur mine for about an hour. The southwest side of the Negoiul Românesc mountain cover was removed between 1970 and 1992 as part of the opencast sulphur mine. Due to the shift in economic priorities, mining activities were stopped in 1997. Four tailings and some buildings belonging to the former miners settlement can still be seen today.

Negoiul Românesc is also strongly connected to the geological term of volcano-karst, a natural phenomenon that leads to the formation of holes in the volcanic rock beneath the surface layer due to chemical processes and physical forces of water from precipitation. This phenomenon brought about the development of the Luana Caves with a hall called „Chocolate Palace”, Ruinelor (Ruins) and Haosului (Chaos) Cave. The caves were destroyed by sulphur mining activities.

The trail follows the saddle between Negoiul Românesc and Pietricelul Peak (1,993 m), going around the latter, and leads to Nicovala Saddle. From here, you can reach the Reţitiş weather station and the Reţitiş Peak (2,021 m) in about 30 minutes. In spring, the ground is covered by rhododendron, with small clusters of dwarf primrose and Iceland moss (Cetraria islandica).

Connoisseurs in the field can also identify dwarf willow (Salix hederacea, S. reticulata) stems stuck to the ground.

The trail wanders through mountain pines and juniper towards Bradul Ciont Peak (1,899 m) and Voivodesei Saddle up to Călimani Izvor Peak (2,031m) for about an hour. An expansive view opens out over the interior of the volcanic caldera.

Follow the trail marking towards southeast, Drăgoiesei Depression and Păltiniş, leaving the Călimani National Park. The duration of the Călimani – Izvor – Păltiniş route is about 3 hours.


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Trail towards Pietrosul Călimani, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

Dwarf willow, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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From the paved local road, follow the trail marked with a red dot, passing meadows and bunches of trees for about two hours until you reach the 12 Apostles Hermitage at the entrance in the Park.

Wild plant enthusiasts will be delighted to find here different species of orchid, bright-coloured flowers or medicinal plants, from June to August.

Among orchids one can easily notice: the Elder-flowered Orchid (Dactylorhiza sambucina), the Spotted-orchid (Dactylorhiza fuchsii), the Dark-red Helleborine (Epipactis atrorubens), the Globe Orchid (Traunsteinera globosa), the Fragrant Orchid (Gymnadenia conopsea), the Lesser Butterfly-orchid (Platanthera bifolia). Other plants with bright-coloured flowers include: heath-dog violets (Viola canina), globe-flower (Trollius europaeus), bladder gentian (Gentiana utriculosa), and Turk’s cap lily (Lilium martagon).

After reaching the ledge, the trail turns towards Lucaciu and the 12 Apostles. Dwarf junipers and bushes of bilberry and lingonberry grow on both sides of the path. The trail then leads to the entrance of the Călimani National Park. Follow the signs to identify the water source. Since this is mainly a ridge trail, water sources are limited. Fill your water supply – you will need plenty water to avoid severe dehydration.

3. Trail: Neagra Şarului village – 12 Apostles Peak – Poiana Izvoarele – Reţitiş Peak – Iezerul Călimanilor Peak – Neagra Şarului village

Marking: Red dot Difficulty: difficultDuration: 18 – 21 hAccess roads: Take the European road E576, overlapping with DN17 Suceava – Vatra Dornei – Bistriţa-Năsăud, to Vatra Dornei, then DN 17B up to Gura Negrii, and then the county road to Neagra Şarului.


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Turk’s cap lily, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

Blueweed, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

Red vanilla orchid, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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The first stop is on the Lucaciu Peak (1,770 m). Leave the trail shortly to admire the view to the Rodnei and Bârgău Mountains. Then head southwest, making your way through junipers and spruce trees deformed by wind and snow, for about an hour, towards the 12 Apostles Nature Reserve (with the 12 Apostles Peak – 1,760 m). Further information about Lucaciu and the 12 Apostles Reserve can be found in the first part of this guide.

White pasque flowers, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

White pasque flowers (Pulsatilla alba) blossom on the windy meadow, while wood grouses (Tetrao urogallus) are lured here during winter by the juniper needles and cones looking like bluish to dark beans, on which they feed. In autumn, the birds’ diet is more diverse, including blueberries, lingonberries and bog bilberries.

After a view of the 12 Apostles rocks, the trail heads to Pietrele Roşii (Red Stones) for about an hour, wandering through the same landscape marked by dwarf junipers and flag spruce trees, whose branches fall prey to the strong winds.

The first resting place is at Pietrele Roşii, where you can put up your tent and find a source of fresh water.

The second part of the trip takes you on a journey from Pietrele Roşii to Poiana Izvoare, where you will have the chance to rest for the night or to continue hiking to the next resting


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Juniper cones, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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place in Negoiu Saddle. Wander for about 2 hours through the glades of spruce and

juniper, sometimes joined by a shrub of mountain pine. Leave the Tamău Peak (1,860 m) behind, then the Măieriş Peak (1885 m) after a one-hour walk, cross paths with the yellow dot trail, and finally with the red cross trail that leads to the resting place in Poiana Izvoare.

Enthusiasts who want to continue their journey may follow the trail through the mountain-pine thicket for about 3 hours to the Negoiu Saddle. You might even find bear (Ursus arctos) and wolf (Canis lupus) tracks on the road. These two species of animals use the hiking trail to move around and to search for food. Especially the bear feeds on blueberries and lingonberries. Gazing upwards, admire the beautiful view of the Pietrosul Peak and of the saddle connecting it to Negoiul Unguresc.

Follow the signs to the water source and the resting place in Negoiu Saddle.

From here on, the trail overlaps with the red cross trail (Trail No. 2) up to the Călimani Izvor Peak. Duration: 8 h.

There are two camping alternatives, both located outside the route:

1. Walk from Reţiş Peak to Bradul Ciont, then follow the red cross trail to Iezerul Călimani Reserve, where you can find a campsite and water. Deviation from route: one hour.

2. Walk from Călimani Izvor Peak to Călimanul Cerbului Peak (2,013 m) for about an hour – on the main red dot trail, then turn south, along the red stripe trail for another 30 minutes.

The last day of the journey takes you from the Iezerul Călimani Reserve to Călimanul Cerbului (resting place) and Piciorul Ţiganului, and along the Tăieturi Brook to the county road passing through the village of Neagra Şarului, where you can find accommodation or public transportation to the city of Vatra Dornei.


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Lingonberry fruit, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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The trail begins in the centre of the city of Vatra Dornei, from the travel information centre of the Mountain Rescue Vatra Dornei (Salvamont).

Follow the trail marking, crossing the bridge over the Dorna River and passing trough the leisure centre. Climb up through the forest to the Diecilor Peak (1,301 m).

Wander through meadows, passing by clusters of trees, until you reach the Priporul Peak (1,305 m) and Poiana Spânzului, and continue your journey through the spruce thicket in Poiana Snopului to the base of the Lucaciu Peak. The 12 Apostles Reserve is 30 minutes away from here.

From here, follow the red dot trail No. 3 to get to the village of Neagra Șarului or the blue dot trail No. 7 to arrive in Gura Haitii.

4. Trail: Vatra Dornei – Poiana Spânzului – Poiana Snopului – Apa Rece – Şaru Dornei village Marking: Blue triangleDifficulty: moderate to difficultDuration: 9 – 10 hAccess roads: Take the European road E576, overlapping with DN17 Suceava – Vatra Dornei – Bistriţa-Năsăud, to Vatra Dornei.

The 12 Apostoli Reserve, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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Lucaciu Peack, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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�. Trail: Dornişoara village – Izvoarele Dornei�. Trail: Dornişoara village – Gura Haitii (See Trail No. �)�. Trail: Poiana Negri village – �� Apostles Peak – Gura Haitii village – Călimanul Cerbului – Coverca village

B. Trails starting from Poiana Negri and Dornişoara

Landscape in Poiana Negri, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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This trail crosses a small area of the Călimani National Park. For a start, follow the forest road leading to the entrance of the Park for about three hours. There is active logging in the area, so expect to encounter forestry equipment and forest workers, except for Sundays and holidays when the road is free and there are higher chances of spotting some wild animals such as the red deer (Cervus elaphus) and the roe deer (Capreolus capreolus).

Wood grouses can sometimes be seen picking pebbles

5. Trail: Dornişoara village – Izvoarele Dornei

Marking: Yellow dotDifficulty: mediumDuration: 4 hAccess roads: – Take the European road E576, overlapping with DN17 Suceava – Vatra Dornei – Bistriţa-Năsăud, to Poiana Stampei, then follow the local and forest road to Dornişoara;– Axial forest road Dornişoara

Forest with deadwood in Voroava, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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from the forest road, which play a role in their digestion. The road is flanked by high spruce trees, passing along Izvoarele Dornei, whose banks are covered by butterbur, comfrey and monkshood.

Butterbur leaves, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

Follow the watercourse upstream and enter the Park. Climb up for about another hour to the base of the Pietrosul Călimani Peak (2103 m), the highest peak of the mountain range. This is where the springs of the Dorna river are located, from where the Romanian name Izvoarele Dornei originated, which collects water downstream from the Tihu, Daliilor, Bârsani, Voroava and Zgârciu Brooks, and then meets up with Dornişoara Brook in Poiana Ştampei. The Dorna River flows through the city of Vatra Dornei, and then into the Bistriţa Aurie River at the exit of the city.

From the base of the Pietrosul Peak, you can either go back on the same route or head southwest for another 30 minutes on the red dot trail to the campsite in Poiana Izvoare.


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Marking: Blue dotDifficulty: mediumDuration: 8 – 9 hAccess roads: Take the European road E576, overlapping with DN17 Suceava – Vatra Dornei – Bistriţa-Năsăud, to Dorna Candrenilor, then follow the local and forest road to Poiana Negri.

Hiking on this trail is recommended on long summer days, when you can really enjoy the beautiful landscapes and the various habitats found on the route.

The trail starts off with a three hour walk from Poiana Negri to the 12 Apostles Reserve, an area with spruce forests and glades with wild strawberries (Fragaria vesca) and raspberry shrubs (Rubus idaeus).

6. Trail: Dornişoara village – Gura Haitii (See Trail No. 1)

7. Poiana Negri village – 12 Apostles Peak – Gura Haitii village – Călimanul Cerbului Peak – Coverca village

Raspberry fruit, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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The trail then leads through hillocks from the Călimani National Park to the rocks of the 12 Apostles, which are included in the nature reserve bearing the same name. For further information on these rock formations, please see the first part of the guide.

The rocks are surrounded by a meadow sprinkled with juniper. Alpine pasque flowers bend their large white cups with the wind. In the summer, the flowers wither, turning into white and ash-coloured tufts.

Admire the bald ridges of the Pietrosul Călimanilor and Negoiul Unguresc Peaks to the south, as well as the Pietrei Dornei Plateau and the Bisticior-Strunior Crest to the west. For further orientation, check the information board set up by the administration of the Park. The trail continues towards Gura Haitii, on the second part of the trip, overlapping with the 12 Apostles theme trail.

Climb down for about an hour and a half, first passing through a dark spruce forest, where you might cross paths with wood grouse and hazel hens (Tetrastes bonasia), and then

Hazel hen, Photo: Iacob Simionescu


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View towards Călimani Spring, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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through meadows, until reaching Neagra Valley. Exit the Călimani National Park at the edge of the forest,

but not before reading some interesting information about wildlife on the designated information board.

Continue your trip after a quick rest, wandering through the meadow with locals animals peacefully grazing. Another information board about the formation of the Călimani Mountains and their volcanic origin is awaiting travellers in the shadow of a towering tree.

The path winds through the meadow, sprinkled with wild orchids, globe-flowers, columbines (Aquilegia nigricans) and mountain violets, along cattle sheds and fences.

Columbines, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

Globe-flowers, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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Another information board awaits, with the story of how cow milk from high up in the mountains finally turns into cheese.

Re-enter the forest, this time thinner than before due to windfalls and insect attacks. Find more information about the infested forest on the designated information board. Climb down the slope and arrive to the watercourse. The Panacu Brook is a tributary of Haita Brook, which flows into Neagra Şarului not very far away from here.

Cross over the foot bridge and arrive to the resting space, which actually serves as the starting point for the theme trail you have already hiked. Four other information boards were

View towards Pietrele Roşii, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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designed to help hikers remember the trail. Continue on the forest road, following the blue dot blaze to the bus station in Gura Haitii.

A three-hour ascent leads to the Călimanul Cerbului Peak (2,012 m). Spruce forests accompany travellers for a while. After about an hour, enter the Călimani National Park once again. The forest gradually thins out into meadows of juniper and mountain pine. A mountain ash (Sorbus aucuparia) waves its branches to the breeze here and there.

In autumn, the mountain ash turns scarlet because of the withering leaves and the heavy fruit clusters. Its fruits are highly

Mountain ash, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

valued by the resident birds as a source of food and vitamins in the wintertime.

Climb up to the peak through the juniper meadow. Călimanul Cerbului is the most eastern summit over 2,000 m of the Călimani Mountains (2,012 m).

Start off on the last part of the journey, from Călimanul Cerbului to Coverca, walking for about two hours and a half.


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A wonderful panoramic view of the Bistriţei Mountains and of the Ceahlăul Mountains further away opens upfront. Admire the magnificent mounds of rhododendrons and bog bilberries on both sides of the path.

In the summer, pay attention to herding dogs. Do not make any sudden moves and do not provoke the animals. Keep calm and wait for the shepherd to come, who will most often than not be somewhere close by.

Flock of sheep towards Iezer, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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Marking: Red stripeDifficulty: mediumDuration: 17 hAccess roads: Take the European road E576 from Bistriţa or Suceava, to Piatra Fântânele.

The trail starts off with fairly long walk for about 3 hours through mixed forests of spruce, beech (Fagus sylvatica) and silver fir (Abies alba). Various species of plants can be found in the spring, like liverleaf (Hepatica nobilis), Dentaria glandulosa, red lungwort (Pulmonaria rubra), as well marsh marigold (Caltha palustris) in wet areas.

View towards Călimani from Piatra Fântânele, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

C. Trails starting from Piatra Fântânele – Colibiţa

�. Trail: Piatra Fântânele village – Poiana sub Măgură – Buba Peak – Terha Saddle – Poiana Dălbidanul – Viişoara Mountain – Bistriciorul Saddle – Tihului-Pietrosul Gorge�. Trail: Colibiţa village – Colbul Valley – Bistriciorul Peak

8. Trail: Piatra Fântânele village – Poiana sub Măgură – Buba Peak – Terha Saddle – Poiana Dălbidanul – Viişoara Mountain – Bistriciorul Saddle – Tihului – Pietrosul Gorge


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With a bit of luck, you might spot wild boars (Sus scrofa) grazing in the glades. Fill your water supply and rest for the night in Poiana Dălbidan, there are no springs on the ridge trail.

Red lungwort, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

Marsh marigold, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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Enter the Călimani National Park on the second day. The first summit to conquer is Străcior Peak (1,963 m). Then descend in the saddle between the Bistricior Peak (1,989 m) and the Străcior Peak. Continue your journey from Drăganului Ridge to Maria Theresa road.

The ridge trail passes through habitats of mountain pines, rhododendron, lingonberry, blueberry and juniper. It is the western branch of the volcanic caldera, as well as the administrative border between the Suceava and Mureş counties. Stroll for about 3 hours eastwards to the Tihului Gorge (1,837 m), through glades of spruce tree and mountain pine, at the base of the Ciungetu Peak (1,923 m) and the Ruscii Peak (1,913 m). Stop to rest and chat for a while.

The ridge includes several groups of cliffs and steep walls, covered by various species of plants, which are adapted to the harsh living conditions: harebell (Campanula rotundifolia ssp.polymorpha), sweet William (Dianthus barbatus), dwarf primrose (Primula minima), highland rush (Juncus trifidus), black crowberry (Empetrum hermafroditum), bog bilberry (Vaccinium uliginosum), thyme (Thymus comosus), etc. Other species include: matgrass (Nardus stricta), mountain pine (Pinus mugo), lingonberry (Vaccinium vitis-idaea).

The trail climbs up the Gruiu Peak (1,882 m). This peak is well known to locals because of the events that took place during the First World War. The entire Călimani mountain range was in fact a front line during the war. What is even more remarkable about Gruiu Peak is the story of a shepherd from the area, who found the bones of numerous soldiers. He buried the bones and marked the spot. A memorial monument was then raised on the same spot to remind people of the fallen soldiers. Every year, on Whitsun, a religious service is held here.

From Gruiu, continue on the open path bordered by mountain pines for about 2 hours, to Pietrosul Călimani Peak (2,103 m).

The nearest resting place is in Poiana Izvoare (30 minutes). Follow the red cross trail towards north and then the red dot trail towards south to get there.


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Alpine bellflowers, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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Marking: Blue triangleDifficulty: mediumDuration: 6 hAccess roads: Take the county road DJ 173A Prundu Bârgăului – Bistriţa Bârgăului – Colibiţa.

The trail starts off in Colibiţa, on the Colbu forest road up to the buildings of the former mining company. It then climbs up a rather steep slope through the mixed forest of spruce, beech and silver fir, crossing with the Tirimia forest road in several points, up to a glade with patience dock and high weeds.

In the summer you can also find: sweet William (Dianthus barbatus), salsify (Scorzonera rosea), willow gentian (Gentiana asclepiadea) and lots of thyme (Thymus comosus).

The next part of the trail takes us on a journey through the Călimani National Park, with a wonderful view of the north-western slope of Strunior Peak. Springs emerge from rocks, supplying wild animals with the necessary water: bears, wolves, deer, wild boars, and birds like the wood grouse, the hazel hen, the thrush and the raven.

The effort finally pays off with wonderful view of the Bistriciorul caldera, with the Bistriciorul Peak (1,990 m) guarding over the fields of mountain pine and the shrubland with species of Ericacia (bilberry and lingonberry). The refuge of the Mountain Rescue Bistriţa is also found here.

9. Trail: Colibiţa village – Colbul Valley – Bistriciorul Peak


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Sweet William, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

Salsify, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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�0. Bistra Mureşului – Bistra Valley – Valea din Mijloc (Middle Valley) – Poiana Cofu��. Gura Cofu – Cofu Valley – Poiana Cofu��. Bistra Valley – Zăpodea cu Cale – Zăpodea Ursului��. Gălăoaia – Poiana Stegii – Zăpodea cu Podul – Bistra Valley��. Răstoliţa – Vişa Valley – Poiana Stegii��. Secu Valley – Poiana Lungă – Tăul Zânelor (Fairies Pond)��. Tihul Răstoliţei – Tihu Saddle��. Rusca Valley – Tihu Peak��. Sălard – La Sărăcin��. Sălard – Poiana Obcinelor – Fântânel Valley – Lunca Bradului�0. Lunca Bradului – Valley Ilva Mare – Negoiu Saddle��. Tihul Ilvei – Tihu Peak��. Ilişoara Mare Valley – Cucumberţul Valley – Poiana Drăguş – Nicovala Saddle��. Stânceni – Zebrac Valley – Poiana Zebrac

D. Trails starting from Mureşului Gorge

10. Trail: Bistra Mureşului – Bistra Valley – Valea din Mijloc (Middle Valley) – Poiana Cofu

Marking: Blue crossDifficulty: difficultDuration: 7 hAccess roads: Take the national road DN15 Tulgheş – Topliţa – Răstoliţa – Deda to Bistra Mureşului


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The starting point of the trail is in Bistra Mureşului. Follow the blue cross marker. After walking on the Bistrei Valley forest road for about 3 hours, cross with the Cofu forest road, at the crossroad of three different valleys: Stegii Valley, Middle Valley and Cofu Valley.

The trail continues along the Middle Valley for about an hour, first through a beautiful mixed forest, then through a spruce forest, to the springs of the Middle Brook. A wonderful view of the Scaunul Domnului Peak invites us to rest for a while, and then continue our ascent on the forest road, to Poiana Bistra. A plateau covered by a spruce thicket awaits us. Cross the forest and meet up with the blue dot trail.

The last part of the trail descends to Poiana Cofa, offering a wonderful view of the Bistriciorul Peak (1,990 m).

Starting point for trail no.10, Photo: Cristin Cireş


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11. Trail: Gura Cofu – Cofu Valley – Poiana CofuMarking: Blue dotDifficulty: mediumDuration: 3 h 30 min Access roads: Take the national road DN15 Tulgheş – Topliţa – Răstoliţa – Deda to Bistra Mureş.

12. Trail: Bistra Valley – Zăpodea cu Cale – Zăpodea UrsuluiMarking: Blue triangle Difficulty: easyDuration: 1 h 30 min Access roads: Take the national road DN15 Tulgheş – Topliţa – Răstoliţa – Deda to Bistra Mureş;

To get to the starting point of the trail, follow the blue cross trail from Bistra Mureşului. After walking on the Bistrei Valley forest road for about 3 hours, cross with the Cofu forest road, at the crossroad of three different valleys: Stegii Valley, Middle Valley and Cofu Valley.

Follow the blue dot trail on the Cofu Valley, on the forest road, for about 2 hours. You will have the chance to see a waterfall, formed on the rocky wall of the brook and surrounded by a spruce forest.

Continue the journey to the springs of the Cofu Brook, and then climb up through the spruce forest to the intersection with the blue cross trail No. 9. Descend to Poiana Cofu, which offers a wonderful view of the Bistriciorul Peak.


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13. Trail: Gălăoaia – Poiana Stegii – Zăpodea cu Podul – Bistra Valley

Marking: Blue point Difficulty: mediumDuration: 5 h 30 minAccess roads: Take the national road DN15 Tulgheş – Topliţa – Răstoliţa – Deda to Bistra Mureş;

The starting point of this trail is in Bistra Mureşului. Walk along the Zapodea cu Cale forest road, then take the path through the mixed forest of spruce, silver fir and beech to the clearing with Zăpodia Ursului Peak (1,012 m).

The trail crosses here with the blue stripe trail leading to Scaunul Domnului.

The trail starts off in Bistra Mureşului, along the Gălăoaia forest road.

The trail winds through a beautiful mixed forest of beech, spruce, silver fir and sycamore maple, near to the Gălăoaia Mare Brook.

Gradually, the forest thins out into the meadows on the ridge connecting Poiana din Mijloc with Poienii Stegii and the Plaiul Stegii Peak (1,454 m).

Continue your journey, crossing paths with the blue stripe trail, leading to the Scaunul Domnului Peak.

After a well-deserved stop, climb down through the forest, along the watercourse of the Zăpodea Brook, to the Bistra Valley.


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Decidous forest, Photo: Cristin Cireş


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Marking: Red dot Difficulty: mediumDuration: 4 hAccess roads: Take the national road DN15 Tulgheş – Topliţa – Răstoliţa – Deda to Iod (Răstoliţa);

The trail starts off from the village of Iod (Răstoliţa commune) along the valley of the Vişa Brook, through the mixed forest with beech, to Poiana Compii.

Pass along Culmilor Peak (1,322 m) and continue through the treeless alpine area, from Poiana Culmii to Poiana Stejii.

The red dot trail ends here, but you can continue your trip to the Scaunul Domnului Peak on the blue stripe trail.

14. Trail: Răstoliţa – Vişa Valley – Poiana Stegii

Sign for trail no.14, Photo: Cristin Cireş


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Marking: Blue dot Difficulty: easyDuration: 2 h 30 minAccess roads: Take the national road DN15 Tulgheş – Topliţa – Răstoliţa – Deda to Răstoliţa; then the forest road Secu.

The trail starts off at the confluence of the Scurtu and Secu Brooks and follows the watercourse of the former brook, on the forest road, to Poiana Lungă, which lies at about 1,400 m.

The trail then gently descends on a road for several minutes and follows a path leading to Tăul Zânelor.

Tăul Zânelor is a 25 hectares large nature reserve, located in Bistriţa-Năsăud county. The main object of the reserve is a lake formed by rockfall from the Ţiganca Peak (Călimani Mountains).

15. Trail: Secu Valley – Poiana Lungă – Tăul Zânelor

Tăul Zânelor, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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16. Trail: Tihul Răstoliţei – Tihu SaddleMarking: Blue cross Difficulty: difficultDuration: 4 hAccess roads: Take the national road DN15 Tulgheş – Topliţa – Răstoliţa – Deda to Răstoliţa; then Tihu forest road.

The trail starts off at Km 8 east from Răstoliţa, on the valley of the Tihu Brook. The forest road is 10 km long and winds through mixed forest of beech, spruce, silver fir and other deciduous species of trees. Fallen tree trunks are home to a rare insect, a protected species in Europe: the Rosalia longicorn (Rosalia alpina).

Rosalia longicorn, Photo: Cristin Cireş

The banks of the brook are populated by black alder (Alnus glutinosa), willow (Salix spp.) and various wetland species: wild Angelica (Angelica sylvestris), great horsetail (Equisetum telmateia), touch-me-not Balsam (Impatiens noli-tangere), wood forget-me-not (Myosotis sylvatica), butterbur and other. There are also different bird species to see, especially wagtails (Motacilla cinerea and M. alba).

The trail continues on a path through the forest for about an hour, through spruce thickets, to Tihului Gorge or Poiana Sânta. From here, you can continue on the red stripe ridge trail of the Călimani, where you can find water and a place to camp.


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17. Trail: Rusca Valley – Tihu Peak

This trail makes the connection between Tihu Peak and Călimanului Ridge.

Follow the Rusca forest road, and then the path through the spruce forest. In the trunks of the trees, you can see holes that were made by different species of woodpecker, like: the black woodpecker (Dryocopus martius) or the three-toed woodpecker (Picoides tridactylus). Crested tits (Parus cristatus) and coal tits(Parus ater) hide behind the needles of the branches.

After the ascent through the forest, you arrive on the Tătarului ridge, at the crossroad with the yellow cross trail. Follow this trail for about an hour to reach the Vârful Tihu Peak (1,799 m), which offers a wonderful panoramic view of the surrounding valleys and the other summits of the Călimani mountains.

Three-toed Woodpecker, Photo: Dan Grigoroaea

Marking: Blue triangleDifficulty: mediumDuration: 1 h 30 min Access roads: Take the national road DN15 Tulgheş – Topliţa – Răstoliţa – Deda to Răstoliţa;


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18. Trail: Sălard – La Sărăcin

The trail starts off from the parking place on the national road on a steep path through the forests of the Mureșului Gorge. Climb up to Stâncile Sărăcin (Rocks of Sărăcin) (1,043 m) and admire the beautiful landscape of the valley.

The trail continues through the forest and then descends to the main road, several hundred meters away from the starting point.

Sign for trail no.18, Photo: Cristin Cireş

Marking: Red dotDifficulty: easyDuration: 2 h Access roads: Take the national road DN15 Tulgheş – Topliţa – Răstoliţa – Deda to Sălard;


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19. Trail: Sălard – Poiana Obcinelor – Fântânel Valley – Lunca Bradului

The trail starts off from the parking place on the national road and climbs up through a mixed forest of beech, spruce, silver fir and sycamore maple. It passes a glade and continues through the forest to Poiana Obcinelor, which offers a wonderful view of the Călimani Mountains.

The trail then wanders through meadows, towards Fântânel Valley, crossing with the forest road, which leads to Lunca Bradului on a 5 km long walk.

20. Trail: Lunca Bradului – Ilva Mare Valley – Negoiu Saddle

The starting point of the trail is the Ilva forest road. The trail reaches the confluence of the Negoiul and Ilișoara Brooks, through habitats of high weeds and various species of plants, which typically grow on banks (butterbur, comfrey,

Marking: Yellow dot Difficulty: mediumDuration: 3 h Access roads: Take the national road DN15 Tulgheş – Topliţa – Răstoliţa – Deda to Sălard;

Marking: Blue cross Difficulty: difficultDuration: 7 h 30 min Access roads: Take the national road DN15 Tulgheş – Topliţa – Răstoliţa – Deda to Lunca Bradului;


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monkshood). Follow the left watercourse, hiking along the Negoiul Brook to the confluence with the Pietrosul Brook. Enter the Călimani National Park.

Insect enthusiasts can admire various species of butterflies, bees and bumble bees on the flowers of plants. The Large Copper (Lycaena dispar) is a protected species of butterfly in Europe. There are also other species to be seen: Brimstone (Gonepteryx rhamni), Small White (Pieris rapae), White Admiral (Limenitis camilla), Small Tortoiseshell (Aglais urticae), Red

Admiral (Vanessa atalanta), Silver-washed Fritillary (Argynnis paphia), Woodland Ringlet (Erebia medusa).

From the confluence of the watercourses follow the forest road along the Negoiu Brook, bordered by mixed forests of beech and sycamore maple, and then by pure spruce thickets.

The trail winds towards the treeless subalpine region, passing along a sheep farm. Refill your water supply, there are no springs of water on the ridge.

On the top, admire the wide meadows with high weeds like the Tufted Hair-grass (Deschampsia caespitosa) and bundles of lingonberry and bog bilberry here and there.

Follow the trail marking to the Negoiu Saddle.

Large Copper, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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21. Trail: Tihul Ilvei – Tihu Peak

Sign for trail no.21, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

Marking: Blue dot Difficulty: mediumDuration: 2 h 30 min Access roads: Take the national road DN15 Tulgheş – Topliţa – Răstoliţa – Deda to Lunca Bradului; then the forest road Ilva, entering Tihului Valley.


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The first part of the trail climbs up along the banks of the Tihu Brook, at the edge of a mixed forest of spruce (Picea abies), silver fir (Abies alba), beech (Fagus sylvatica) and sycamore maple (Acer pseudoplatanus), with typical treeline vegetation: male fern (Dryopteris filix-mas), monkshood (Aconitum degenii), raspberry (Rubus idaeus), butterbur (Petasites hybridus).

The forest gradually thins out, followed by an area affected by windfalls, where different saplings of different species, like spruce, beech, silver birch (Betula pendula), mountain-ash (Sorbus aucuparia), as well as typical species of affected

Bog bilberry, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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habitats can be observed: Rosebay Willowherb (Epilobium angustifolium) and raspberry.

Enter the Park after about an hour, halfway through the journey.

In the summertime, shepherds settle with flocks of sheep in Covata Tihului. In front of the sheep farm lies the north-eastern slope of the Tihu Peak, once covered by forests that were destroyed in 2000 in a devastating fire. The wood vegetation is slowly regrowing at this time.

From the sheep farm, the trail climbs a steep slope to the Tihu Peak, on a path bordered by a spruce forest. The vegetation is dominated by shrubs, with raspberry and blueberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) towards the base of the mountain, and lingonberry (Vaccinium vitis-idaea), bog bilberry (Vaccinium uliginosum), rhododendron (Rhododendron myrtifolium) and mountain pine (Pinus mugo), towards the top.

Despite of its relative small altitude, the Tihu Peak (1,799 m) consists of several rock formations and a steep slope.

Typical vegetation grows on rocks: goldmoss stonecrop (Sedum acre), dwarf primrose (Primula minima), and matgrass (Nardus stricta).

The southern slope of the Căpățânii – Stâncile lui Ilieș Peak (1,922m) is covered by grassland with few species, mainly consisting of matgrass (Nardus stricta), and some shrubs of juniper (Juniperus communis ssp.nana) and spruce (Picea abies), visibly affected by grazing.


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Căpăţânii Peak, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

Dwarf primrose, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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22. Trail: Ilişoara Mare Valley – Cucumberţul Valley – Poiana Drăguş – Nicovala Saddle

Marking: Red cross Difficulty: difficultDuration: 6 hAccess roads: Take the national road DN15 Tulgheş – Topliţa – Răstoliţa – Deda to Lunca Bradului;Then take the forest road.

The first part of the trail is dominated by mixed forests of spruce in particular, with well developed saplings of silver fir and beech in certain places. There are also isolated specimens of sycamore maple(Acer pseudoplatanus).

The herb layer at the border of the forest is dominated by greater wood rush (Luzula sylvatica) and tufted hair-grass (Deschampsia caespitosa), but you can also find isolated specimens of Jupiter’s sage (Salvia glutinosa), willow gentian (Gentiana asclepiadea), hedge woundwort (Stachys sylvatica), annual fleabane (Erigeron annuus), meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria), ox-eye daisy (Telekia speciosa), as well as raspberry (Rubus idaeus) and dewberry (Rubus caesius) as dominant shrub species towards the interior of the forest.

The second part of the trail is dominated by spruce forests, but also encounters beech trees, especially in areas affected by windfalls. The shrub layer is dominated by blueberry, respectively by blueberry and lingonberry at the superior border of the forest. The herb layer is rather underdeveloped due to the lack of light. Towards the superior border, there are some specimens of European larch (Larix decidua), apparently planted over 50 years ago.

There are also fallen trees, which were blown down by wind in time and are in different stages of decay at the moment, serving as valuable deadwood for the habitat. Different species of fungi involved in the process of decomposition can


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Willow gentian, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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be observed: white Domecap (Lyophyllum connatum), Russula cavipes, blackening Russula (Russula nigricans), charcoal burner (Russula cyanoxantha), sheep polypore (Scutiger ovinus), red-banded polypore (Fomitopsis pinicola), tinder fungus (Fomes fomentarius), Dryad’s saddle (Polyporus squamosus), peppery milk-cap (Lactarius piperatus).

On the way to the ridge, you arrive in Poiana Drăguș, where the trail leaves the area of the park for about 30 minutes, then re-enter the protected area and cross the red stripe trail in Nicovala Saddle.

Tinder fungus, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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View from Şaua Nicovala, Photo: Elena Cenuşă

Sheep cheese left for drying, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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23. Trail: Stânceni – Valea Zebrac – Poiana Zebrac

Marking: Blue dotDifficulty: mediumDuration: 3 h 30 minAccess roads: Take the national road DN15 Tulgheş – Topliţa – Răstoliţa – Deda to Stânceni;

From Stânceni, follow the Zebrac forest road to the end. From here, the trail wanders through the forest along the spring of the Zebrac Brook to Poiana Zebrac

Hikers, who want to reach the main summit of the Călimani Mountains, can follow the yellow stripe trail that leads to the Rețitiș Peak and the weather station.

Brook bank covered by butterbur leaves, Photo: Elena Cenuşă


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Marking: Red cross and Blue crossDifficulty: mediumDuration: 6 hAccess roads: Take the national road DN15 Tulgheş – Topliţa – Răstoliţa – Deda to Topliţa;

E. Trails starting from Topliţa

The trail starts off from the exit of Toplița towards Bilbor, passing by the monument, and then follows the red cross marker along the Lomaș forest road for about 8 km (2 h). At the confluence with Voievodeasa Brook, follow the blue cross trail for the next 13 km (4 h).

At the confluence of Lomașului and Puturosu Brooks, the trail leaves the forest road, continuing through the forest up to the ridge and, then, to the subalpine grasslands. The trail enters the area of the Călimani National Park, near the Rețitiș Peak, taking the same route as the red cross trail up to the summit.

24. Trail: Topliţa – Reţitiş Peak

Iezerul Călimani, Photo: Liviu Huţanu


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I The information presented in the first part of the guide was taken from the Management Plan of the Călimani National Park.

II According to the Organizational and Operational Guidelines of the Călimani National Park.

Other sources:Ciocârlan, V.: Flora ilustrată a României – Pteridophyta et

Spermatophyta [Illustrated flora of Romania – Pteridophyta et Spermatophyta], Ed. Ceres, București, 2009;

Naum, T., et al: Munții Călimani [The Călimani Mountains], Ed. Sport-Turism, 1989;

www.salvamontms.rowww.wikipedia.com

REMARKS

Documents

Călimani National Park Visitor’s Guide · the Călimani National Park, by offering useful information about the natural heritage and the tourists routes to be pursued. Prior to