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©TAFE NSW Construction and Transport Division 1

WALL FRAMING

This text introduces a variety of subject matter related to Building and Construction, at a trade level. It outlines wall and ceiling framing terminology, framing members, placement of members and methods of bracing in relation to wind loadings. Setting out of wall frames for timber and brick veneer structures is covered, including the structural connections between members. The unit also covers calculation of opening sizes, framing quantities and costs. Note: Only timber framing is dealt with in this unit. A comprehensive ‘Glossary of Terms’ is included at the end of the text, which provides a detailed description of trade terms, technical content and some trade jargon.

WALL FRAMING


INTRODUCTION TO FRAMING A frame may be described as being a structural framework of two or more members joined together to form a fabricated unit, which provides strength for a building and fixing for other materials. The individual members of a frame perform specific functions such as supporting other

members, separating other members, prevent other members from twisting or to simply provide

WALL FRAMING

PLATES - These are the horizontal members, which form the top and bottom of the frame, and are separated by the studs. The bottom or vermin plate is usually out of 50mm thick unseasoned material or 45mm thick seasoned material. The top plate is of the same section size as the bottom plate for conventional roofing, however its thickness is increased to 75mm for unseasoned and 70mm for seasoned when the roof system is trussed or a 2nd storey is added.

Jack or short stud Door head trimmer Timber brace

(Optional) Top wall plate Lintel

Metal angle brace

Secondary Jamb studs Window studs Sill trimmer

Jack or short stud

Corner studs Blocking

Bottom wall plate Common stud Noggings

Door studs

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Fig. 2 Increasing top plate thickness for trusses or 2nd storey

The extra thickness compensates for the additional loads transferred to the exter-nal walls by the trusses or additional frames. Trusses are designed to span the full width of the building to be supported on the external walls only. Alternatively, the top plate of the external walls may be doubled; i.e. 2 x 38mm plates, to provide adequate support where the trusses are not supported directly over a stud.

STUDS - These are the vertical members placed between plates, which provide the height for the wall and transfer the loads from the top to the bottom plates. Typical sizes used in F5 to F8 Grades are from 75 x 38mm to 100 x 50mm in unseasoned timber and from 70 x 35 to 90 x 45mm in seasoned timber. They may simply be used to separate the plates, common studs, or be used for specific purposes such as door and window studs or secondary jamb studs. Note: It is usual for door and window studs to be a minimum of 50mm thick for sawn timber and 45mm thick for thicknessed timber.

TRIMMERS - These are the relatively short horizontal members fixed between window sills and door heads, often referred to simply as sill or head trimmers. They are usually of the same section size as the bottom plates and are not designed to carry great loads; therefore they would not normally be longer than the width of a standard door opening, when used for heads. Where openings are wider or carry excessive loads a larger section size member would be used, which is known as a lintel.

TRIMMING STUDS -

These are short infill studs, which run between trimmers and plates or are used to block out the back of a narrow lintel. They may also be referred to as Jack, soldier or short studs.

NOGGING - These are horizontal members cut between studs to keep them straight, equally spaced and prevent them from twisting. They are usually of a smaller thickness than the studs, i.e. 35 or 38mm, to save cost, as they are not considered to be a structural frame component. They may also be fitted on edge in a continuous length by being cut-in on one side, flush with the studs, for the length of the frame. This type is of a smaller section size, i.e. 75 x 25mm, and may be referred to as a ribbon or strip nogging. Other common terms used for noggings are noggin, nog and dwang.

Effect of random loading Double plate

Thickened plate

WALL FRAMING


Fig. 8.3 Patent metal lintels used for framing

LINTEL - Also referred to as a head, it is a horizontal member placed between studs, walls or columns to form an opening. The lintel is designed to transfer the load of the roof and/or upper floor to the sides of the opening, without deflecting. Lintels may be of solid stress graded unseasoned timber, solid stress graded seasoned timber, horizontally laminated stress graded timber, vertically laminated timber (LVL), rolled steel channel, cold formed ‘Z’ or ‘C’ sectioned Zincalume, boxed with plywood sheeting and combinations of timber and steel.

BRACING - Frames are braced to provide lateral stability, which prevents racking in the individual frames and throughout the whole-framed structure. Braces are fitted to the frames before they are erected, but are not nailed off. This allows the frames to be plumbed and straightened before they are made rigid. There are several bracing systems used for both timber and metal wall frames as follows: • Diagonal timber bracing – 50 to 75mm wide x 19 to 25mm thick battens are

checked in flush with the face of the studs and nailed off on each stud. This method is very strong but time consuming to fit;

• Diamond bracing – similar to diagonal bracing but it is placed in the shape of a diamond. It may be timber or metal;

• Perforated metal angle bracing – this is fitted in a similar way to the diagonal timber bracing except it only requires a saw cut, the thickness of the metal, to allow it to be fitted hard against the edge of the studs. This method is quick and easy to fit. It is strong in tension but tends to buckle when in compression if there is only one brace in the wall. Also, it has a very sharp edge and must be fitted facing down to avoid possible injury during assembly and erection work;

'C' Section

'Z' Section

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Fig. 4 Diagonal timber or metal bracing

Fig. 5 Metal cross bracing with tensioners

• Flat metal or hoop iron cross bracing – provided it is crossed over, it gives good holding power and is quick and easy to fit. Most flat metal bracing, used for timber and metal frames, is fitted with a compression clamp to allow for adjustment and squaring of the frames. This is now the most common method used for bracing large walls and panels;

Studs and plates are saw-cut to receive angle

Straps are to be adequately tensioned, turned over top plate and under bottom plate and nailed at each stud crossing.

Strap tensioner

WALL FRAMING


Fig. 6 Type A sheet bracing up to 2kN

TABLE 1 Guide for Sheet Bracing

• Sheet bracing – this is a very strong and rigid method of bracing, especially for short or narrow wall panels. Due to its thickness, approx. 7mm, it tends to be used for external walls as it may be placed on the cavity side in brick veneer construction. If it is used for internal walls then the whole wall must be sheeted to prevent buckling of the plasterboard sheet wall lining, which is placed over its edge. It may be of plywood or hardboard sheeting, which is nailed off to suit the revised AS 1684–1999: Timber Framing Code– Part 2

Sheet bracing

MATERIAL

GRADE/ TYPE

MIN. THICKNESS (mm) for

STUD SPACING

NAIL SIZE (mm)

NAIL SPACING

(mm) 450 600 Edge Intermediate

Plywood

F8 F11 F14 F27

7 4.5 4 3

9 7 6

4.5

900

2.8 x 30

150

300

Hardboard

RD GP

5.5 6.4

5.5 6.4

1200 900

2.8 x 25

100

300

PANEL

LENGTH (sheet width)

Nail spacing – edge

Nail spacing – intermediate

Vertical edges to be supported by studs

Horizontal joints in sheets to occur over nogging and nailed as per top and bottom plate

Panel length

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WIND LOADING AND CLASSIFICATION Structures are designed and braced to resist wind loads and wind uplift. The bracing is designed and placed in strategic positions to counteract the affects of ‘racking’, due to lateral wind forces, and ‘uplift’, caused by wind updraught. Before the design of a structure can be decided upon it is necessary for the designer and structural engineer to know the region and terrain category relative to the location of the structure.

TABLE 2 Regions in Australia

TABLE 3 Terrain Categories

Further Information may be found in AS 4055-1992 Wind loads for housing.

Region - This identifies the geographic area within Australia where differing weather conditions occur. They range from very mild and stable to severe tropical cyclonic regions as described in the table below:

REGION LOCATION DESCRIPTION

A

Occurs over the majority of inland Australia and Tasmania.

These areas are classified as being ‘Normal’ with low wind gust speeds up to 50 m/s.

B

Occurs on the north coast of NSW from Corrindi and runs close to the coastline around to Broome in WA. Also the mid to lower east coast of WA and the Islands north of Cape York.

These areas are classified as being ‘Intermediate’ with increasing wind gust speeds up to 60 m/s.

C Occurs from Bundaberg in QLD along the coast across to Carnar-von in WA.

These areas are classified as having ‘Tropical Cyclones’ with high wind gust speeds up to 70 m/s.

D Occurs from Carnarvon in WA along the coast up to Port Head-land.

These areas are classified as having ‘Severe Tropical Cyclones’ with wind gust speeds up to 85 m/s.

Terrain Category -

This is the classification given to a building site based on the surrounding landscape taking into consideration flat surfaces and raised obstructions. These classifications are described in the following table:

CATEGORY DESCRIPTION

Terrain Category 1 (TC 1) -

This is exposed, open terrain with only a few or no obstructions. This would apply to a structure on it’s own in the open, of at least 10 km width, with little or no vegetation. It would also apply to structures close to wide, open expanses of water such as a lake or vast river.

Terrain Category 2

(TC 2) -

This is smaller open terrain including coastal areas. This would include grassland with a few scattered obstructions like trees, air-fields and low vegetation consisting of uncut grass to trees 10m tall.

Terrain Category 2.5 (TC2.5) -

This is terrain with some trees and some other obstructions and vegetation up to 600mm high as would be found in decentralised urban areas.

Terrain Category 3 (TC3) -

This is terrain with closely spaced obstructions like mature trees and other large structures of around 10 house-size obstructions per hectare.

WALL FRAMING


FRAME CONSTRUCTION

PLATES The size of plates will depend on the spacing of studs, floor joists, rafters or trusses, single or double storey, stress grade of the timber and the species of timber used. The majority of wall framing is constructed of Radiata pine, which is seasoned and thicknessed and does not require the plates to be housed to take studs. Housing plates to take studs is only necessary if rough sawn materials, such as Oregon and mixed hardwoods, are used. The housing provides a constant plate thickness so all the studs may be cut to the same length, which ensures the overall height of the frame remains parallel.

Fig. 7 Housing plates for studs

Plates are to be trenched approximately 10mm deep to provide a uniform thickness where the studs occur. However, it’s not the depth that’s critical here, but rather the amount left-on the plate. This is achieved by gauging from the bottom of the plate when setting out or making sure the blade depth of a radial arm saw, fitted with a trenching head cutter, is constant while the bottom of the plate is face down on the cutting bench.

In trenching plates for studs, the amount left on is constant

USE OF TRENCHING HEAD

WALL HEIGHT IS UNIFORM ALTHOUGH THE THICKNESS OF BOTH PLATES VARIES

a = Amount that is gauged to be left on. b = Approximately 10mm. But varies if plates are not of uniform thickness. Stud lengths are equal U

nif o

rm w

all h

eig h

t

a

b

a

b

b

a a

b

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JOINING PLATES

Fig. 8 Patent type metal plate connectors

Fig. 9 Scarfed and lapped plate joints

When plates are thicknessed and butt jointed, they may be connected using patent metal connectors. These connectors may be in the form of a ‘Gangnail’ type or a ‘Nail-plate’ type. Alternatively, if plates are not thicknessed they require scarfed or lapped joints, which provide excellent connection but are time consuming to prepare.

Nail plates Plates butt jointed

Top plate

Studs

Extension of gable roof

Solid Blocking

Bottom plates

WALL FRAMING


STUDS The size of the studs depends on the spacing, stress grade and timber species used. The most commonly used stud spacings, for brick veneer construction, are 450mm and 600mm centre-to-centre. If the walls are clad with other sheeting, then the studs should be placed so the sheets join on the centre of the stud edge. The studs should be kept flush on the lining side of the walls for brick veneer construction and centred on the plates for timber framed construction. CALCULATING STUD LENGTH The finished floor to ceiling height of the rooms governs the length of the studs. The regulation height for habitable rooms, unless otherwise specified, will be 2400mm. Stud length = Overall frame height – amount left on both plates, when,

Fig. 10 Proportions for calculating stud length on platform floor construction

A1 – Platform Floor: External wall • Top plate is 75mm thick; • Bottom plate is 50 thick; • Ceiling sheet thickness is 13mm; • Floor to ceiling height is 2400mm; • Amount left on top plate is 65mm;

and • Amount left on bottom plate is

40mm.

∴ Stud length = (2400 + 13) - (65 + 40) = 2413 - 105 = 2308mm

A2 Platform Floor: Internal wall • Top and bottom plates are 50mm

thick; • Clearance to truss is 12mm; • Ceiling sheet thickness is 13mm; • Floor to ceiling height is 2400mm;

and • Amount left on top and bottom

plates is 40mm.

∴ Stud length = [(2400 + 13) - (40 + 40)] - 12

= [2413 - 80] - 12 = 2321mm

Thickened plate

Clearance min. 12mm to truss

Determining stud length for trenched plates. Trussed roof.

Stud

leng

th

F lo o

r /Cei

ling

2 40 0

min

S tu d

leng

th

F ra m

e he

igh t

A

A1 A2

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Fig. 11 Proportions for calculating stud length on cut-in floor construction

Fig. 12 Proportions for calculating stud length on platform floor construction using thicknessed top and bottom plates.

B – Cut-in Floor: External and Internal walls • Top and bottom plates are 50mm thick; • Ceiling sheet thickness is 13mm; • Floor to ceiling height is 2400mm; • Flooring thickness is 20mm; • Ceiling batten thickness is 25mm; and • Amount left on top and bottom plates is 40mm.

∴ Stud length = (2400 + 13 + 25 + 20) - (40 + 40)

= 2458 - 80 = 2378mm

C1 - Platform Floor: External wall • Top plate is 70mm thick; • Bottom plate is 45 thick; • Ceiling sheet thickness is 13mm; • Floor to ceiling height is 2400mm;

∴ Stud length = (2400 + 13) - (70 + 45)

= 2413 - 115 = 2298mm

C2 - Platform Floor: Internal wall • Top and bottom plates are 35mm thick; • Clearance to truss is 12mm; • Ceiling sheet thickness is 13mm; • Floor to ceiling height is 2400mm; and

∴ Stud length = [(2400 + 13) - (35 + 35)] - 12

= [2413 - 70] - 12 = 2331mm

Determining stud length for trenched plates. Traditional ceiling

Determining stud length for non-trenched plates. Trussed roof.

Thickened plate

Clearance min. 12mm to truss

Stud

leng

th

F loo

r/Cei

ling

2 40

0mm

S tud

leng

th

Fram

e he

ight

A

S tud

leng

th

S tud

le

ngth

F ram

e H

e ig h

t B

F loo

r/Cei

ling

2 40 0

min

B

C1 C2

WALL FRAMING


CALCULATING DOOR OPENINGS HEIGHT The height of the opening will depend on the position of the door, i.e. internal or external, the type of door system, i.e. hung timber door and jamb, surface mounted sliding timber door and jamb, patent cavity sliding door system, Aluminium sliding door with timber reveals, etc. Other important information will include the type of flooring used, i.e. cut-in or platform, the size of the timber door jamb material, whether or not the jamb has a timber or tiled threshold and the type of floor covering or finish. All this information is required before the calculation can be made, as not all door frame openings are the same size. Note: Generally, the opening size is provided by the manufacturer in a brochure for patent and modular door systems like cavity slider frames and sliding Aluminium doors. The following examples are based on a standard 2040 x 820mm internal hung (hinged) timber door and jamb system with different flooring systems and finishes; Example 1: Formula = carpet and clearance + door height + door head clearance + jamb thickness + clearance above head Calculation for the door opening height of a stained internal bedroom door where the wall frame is placed on a timber platform or concrete slab-on-ground floor system and the floor is covered with carpet. NB: Allow 2mm door clearance for stained doors and 3mm for painted doors. Also, allow 10mm clearance above head of door jamb for deflection of frame head trimmer.

Fig. 14 Opening details

Calculation: = 22 + 2040 + 2 + 20 + 10 = 2094 mm

Fig. 13 Door height opening

2094

SECTION ELEVATION

2094

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Example 2:

Formula = thickness of flooring + underlay, vinyl and clearance + door height + door head clearance + jamb thickness + clearance above head

Calculation for the door opening height of a painted internal kitchen door where the wall frame is placed on a timber floor frame with cut-in tongue and grooved flooring and the floor is covered with hardboard underlay and vinyl. NB: Allow 2mm door clearance for stained doors and 3mm for painted doors. Also, allow 10mm clearance above head of door jamb for deflection of frame head trimmer.

Fig. 16 Opening details

Calculation: = 20 +15 + 2040 + 3 + 20 + 10 = 2108 mm

Fig. 15 Door height opening

2108

SECTION ELEVATION

2108

WALL FRAMING


DOOR WIDTH The width of the opening is based on the width of a stock door 820mm wide, jamb thickness and clearances. An allowance of 10mm is provided on each side to provide room for adjustment of the jamb if the frame opening studs are badly bowed or out-of-plumb. Example 3:

Formula = width of stock door + (2 x door clearance) + (2 x jamb thickness) + (2 x clearance for packing)

CALCULATING WINDOW OPENINGS HEIGHT Window sizes are either shown on plan, listed in a specification or may be obtained from manufacturer’s brochures. The height dimension is always stated first to remove confusion regarding which dimension is which. The position in height is determined by the height of the door openings so that no matter what size window is used there will be uniformity of head heights throughout the structure. Once the finished head height is established, an allowance of at least 10mm is added to locate the underside of the lintel. This will provide clearance in case of lintel deflection under load.

Fig. 18 Detail of window heads in-line and clearance under frame lintel

Calculation for the door opening width of a stock size painted internal bedroom door.

Fig. 17 Horizontal section through opening

NB: Allow 2mm door clearance for stained doors and 3mm for painted doors. Calculation: = 820 + 6 + 40 + 20 = 886 mm

10

20 20

10

886 Opening

Door + clearance

Eaves lining

Lintel

10mm

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WINDOW WIDTH The position of the window will be pre-determined on plan in most cases, but may need some adjustment to allow for the best position in relation to brick bond to avoid unnecessary cutting and/or odd length bricks resulting. The opening should be the overall size of the window frame plus 10mm clearance on either side to allow for bowed or out-of-plumb window studs. Note: Some frame designers make the opening an additional half brick wide. This allows the secondary jamb studs, and the window, to be moved to suit brick bond. Once the correct position is located the secondary jamb studs are nailed off and trimmed to the bottom plate. This method may be useful where many windows occur in one wall of brick veneer construction.

Fig. 19 Horizontal section through a sliding Aluminium window in brick veneer

Fig. 20 Proportions of the window opening

10mm Packing

Window Stud

Nogging Timber reveal

Aluminium Sliding Window

Window Size

Stud Opening Size

Brick Sill

Face brickwork

25 mm

O/A Window plus 10mm each side

25mm

10m

m m

in

O/A

Win

dow

plu

s

To s

uit d

oor h

ead

heig

ht

To suit brick bond

WALL FRAMING


STRAIGHTENING OF STUDS Poor stacking, partial or uneven seasoning may lead to studs bowing, twisting or forming a spring, which is a bend along the edge. These malformed studs may still be used but will require some additional attention before the wall frames are finished and ready to receive linings. Once the wall frames are up and the ceiling frame is complete, the temporary braces are removed from the walls. At this stage it may be necessary to go over the frames to complete the fitting of blocks, loose or missing noggings and to straighten any studs with excessive spring. This procedure is especially critical in the wet areas (bathroom, laundry, toilet, kitchen) so that wall tiles may be laid onto a straight surface and to allow kitchen cupboards to be easily fitted to straight walls. The most effective method of straightening is as follows:

Fig. 21 Method of straightening studs

1. Make a saw cut in the centre of the hollow edge to a depth of approximately half the stud width;

2. Drive a thin timber wedge into the saw cut while pulling the stud straight. Skew nail through the saw cut and wedge;

3. Nail a timber cleat to the face of the stud over the saw cut and wedge to reinforce the cut stud.

SPRING

STRAIGHTENED

STRENGTHENED

Make saw-cut Half depth

Drive wedge in, then nail through cut and wedge

Push to straighten

Nail cleat to side

Cut off remainder of wedge

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NOGGINGS Noggings, also referred to as noggins, nogs or dwangs (NZ), are horizontal members cut in between studs at a vertical spacing of not more than 1200mm c/c. They are designed to provide lateral strength and stability to the wall frame, while at the same time keeping the studs straight and providing a means of fixing for sheet claddings and/or linings. To ensure that the studs remain straight and parallel each nogging should be measured between each pair of studs at the bottom plate. They may be fixed in a straight horizontal line or staggered, to allow for ease of nailing. The section size of noggings tends to be thinner than that of the plates and studs, as they are not considered to be of the same structural importance.

Fig. 22 Method of measuring noggings to ensure studs remain parallel

Fig. 23 Position and fixing of noggings

Rule used to measure in between studs

Studs

Bottom wall plate

In-line row

Additional row where spacing exceeds 1350 c/c

2700

2400

Staggered row

1350

max

.

WALL FRAMING


LINTELS Lintels, also known as heads, provide continuous support across an opening. The section size depends on: • Span of the opening; • Stress grade of the timber or type of patent lintel; • Whether single or two storey; and • Type of roof and roof covering. Note: Sizes and stress grades may be obtained from AS 1684 – National Timber Framing Code. The following details show how lintels are designed and fitted to the studs of openings:

Fig. 24 Details of common lintel systems

Jack stud

Nogging to next stud close to joint is good practice

Ledger for jack stud support

Thick lintel

Secondary jamb stud

Plywood sheathed intel

Preformed rigid steel lintel

PRESSED METAL SECTIONS

ALTERNATIVE METHOD USING PLYWOOD

THICK LINTELS TO OPENINGS GREATER THAN 1200MM

OPENINGS GREATER THAN 1200mm

OPENINGS LESS THAN 1200mm

A-A Detail B

Jack stud not housed into lintel

10mm Max

D-D C-C

E-E

F G

J-J Detail H

Extend 70mm Min

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CONNECTING AND JOINING FRAMING FRAMING JOINTS There are various methods used for joining plates to studs and connecting plates at intersections. One method is to use housings for studs and lapped or scarfed joints for intersections. This system tends to be labour intensive due to the accuracy required in setting out and cutting, but it does allow for quick and accurate location of frames during the assembly and erection procedure. Also, the connections are very solid and permanent.

Fig. 25 Common methods of connecting and jointing frames

The alternative is to use sized, seasoned timber and simply butt joint all connections and secure with patent metal connector plates. This is the preferred system for pre-fabricated frames, which are used widely in the residential building sector.

TEE HALVING JOINT Used where internal walls intersect or where they intersect with external walls, at 90º, along the length o a wall.

CORNER HALVING JOINT Used where internal walls intersect at a 90º corner or where external walls intersect at 90º, at either internal or external corners.

THROUGH HOUSING JOINT Used to locate and connect studs to plates

WALL FRAMING


STUD CLUSTERS The most commonly used methods of creating stud clusters are as follows:

Fig. 26 Common stud clusters for cut-in and platform floors

EXTERNAL CORNER – Timber frame cottage Sawn timber with wall on joists, for a cut-in floor

INTERSECTION – Timber frame cottage Sawn timber with wall on joists, for a cut-in floor

EXTERNAL CORNER – Brick veneer cottage Seasoned and thicknessed timber with wall over joists for a platform floor

INTERSECTION – Brick veneer cottage Seasoned and thicknessed timber with wall over joist, for a platform floor

Corner stud cluster to fix cladding and lining

Solid Blocking

Bottom plates housed to take studs

Double joists under external wall

Intersection stud cluster to fix cladding and lining

Bottom plates housed to take

studs

Double joists under internal wall

Solid blocking

Íntersection stud cluster to fix linings

Platform flooring

Bottom plates set out to fix studs

Single joist under load-bearing internal wall

Corner stud cluster to fix linings

Solid blocking

Bottom plates set out to fix studs

Platform flooring

Double joists under external walls

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CONSTRUCTING WALL FRAMES SETTING OUT PLATES Before the set out commences, the plans should be studied to allow the person setting out to become familiar with the room layout, measurements, orientation, opening positions and member sizes. Always check the plan measurements to make sure that incremental measurements add up to overall measurements. Once the dimensions have been checked, a system of marking the walls needs to be decided upon. Plates should be marked and cut in pairs, i.e. top and bottom plates together, to maintain accurate and parallel spacing of studs. A suggested method is outlined below: Method: • Identify each pair of plates in relation to the room which they belong, e.g. ‘Bed 1 / Hall’

by numbering the walls on the plan. They may be marked from ‘1’ onwards in a clockwise direction around the external walls and then continue with the internal walls. The length of plates should be determined by either room sizes or a manageable length, e.g. preferably not longer than around 5.4m;

• Identify each plate as being either top or bottom, marked ‘Top’ and ‘Bot’; • Identify the orientation of the plate ends, e.g. ‘N – S’ or ‘E – W’; • Mark window and door openings with arrows and identify, e.g. l← D1→l or l← W2→l; • Set out position and thickness of all studs in pencil with an ‘lXl’ , whether they are to be

housed or not; and • If the plates are to have scarfed joints they should be marked as lONl or lOFFl, to identify

which side is to be checked out, e.g. all walls running north to south will have the face left ‘ON’ and all walls running east to west will have the face taken ‘OFF’.

Note: Markings should be in a coloured crayon and on the top face of each plate so they may be seen when the frames are erected.

Fig. 27 Floor plan of a brick veneer cottage

WALL FRAMING


Example 1: The plan in Fig. 8.27 shows the layout of a 3 bedroom brick veneer cottage, with the entry facing North. The front wall of bedroom 1 and the entry has been selected. The framing is sawn Oregon with stud spacings at 600 c/c and the plates will be housed and scarfed.

Fig. 28 Completed plate set out

METHOD OF SETTING OUT PLATES The following steps outline the procedure involved to set out the wall plates, on the north side of Bedroom 1/Entry, as highlighted on the floor plan in Fig. 8.27. The plates, window and door studs are out of 100 x 50 sawn Oregon and the common studs are out of 100 x 38 sawn Oregon.

Fig. 29 Prepare plates

Fig. 30 Mark position of scarf joints and stud clusters

STEP 2 Set out the position of the scarf joints on both ends, plus any intersecting wall connections. Also mark the position of 38mm common studs, which form the stud clusters. Note: Allow 50mm studs where a door or window stud forms part of the stud cluster.

STEP 1 Identify the wall and calculate it’s total length from the measurements shown on plan, i.e. 100 + 3555 + 100 + 1210 + 100 = 5065mm (allows for scarfed joints both ends). Select two straight lengths of 100 x 50 sawn Oregon, 5.1m long. Square one end of both plates, measure 5065mm, mark and cut to length and then cramp or tack nail the plates together. (plates are pinned together so they can be accurately marked at the same time).

100

off off

off off

off

off

100 100 1210

50mm door stud

38mm studs

5100

5065

Plates pinned together

WEST

WEST

EAST

EAST BOT

TOP

BED 1

BED 1

D2

D2

W1

W1

off

off off

off off

off

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TABLE 4 Brick dimensions

METRIC STANDARD BRICK DIMENSIONS

METRIC STANDARD BRICK: 230 x 110 x 76 mm JOINTS: 10mm VERTICAL GAUGE: 7 courses = 600mm

STEP 3 Prepare a brick setout or storey rod. This rod should have brick bond marked on one edge (which is the 230mm length of the brick face plus 10mm mortar joints), brick gauge marked on the second edge (which is the 76mm thickness of the brick plus 10mm mortar joints), vertical frame set out on the third edge (which shows the bearer, joist, platform flooring if used, bottom plate, window sills, door and window lintels and the top plate), and the fourth side may be used to show any other special features, such as full stud length. The table and details below may be used as guides to create a setout rod. Note: Openings greater than 25 bricks wide are not shown in the Table.

WALL FRAMING


Fig. 31 Details for the setout rod

Fig. 33 Set out the position of door and window studs

Top plate

Window head

Door head

Sill plate

Brick courses

Bottom plate

Joist

Bearer

STOREY ROD

G.L.

VERTICAL SET-OUT

HO

RIZ

ON

TAL

SET-

OU

T

RO

D F

OR

BR

ICK

B ON

D S

ET-O

UT

CARPENTRY - HOUSING


Fig. 32 Using the set-out rod for positioning windows

25mm

Brick Bond Rod

Window Opening

SETTING OUT WINDOW STUDS USING A ROD

Window Size

Stud Opening Size

TYPICAL MANUFACTURER’S METAL WINDOW DETAIL

WALL FRAMING


Fig. 34 Set out the position of the common studs

Fig. 35 Identify plates with common notation

Repeat the process for all plates in the cottage, then stack them neatly ready to be scarfed and housed. At this point all the studs may be marked off the setout rod, cut to length and stacked ready for assembly. Also, special studs such as window and door studs may have sill and lintel positions set out, using the rod, and are housed ready for assembly. CUTTING SCARFS AND HOUSINGS

STEP 4 Set out the position of 100 x 50 door and window studs, using the setout rod, to suit brickwork. Mark the plates to identify the openings.

STEP 5 Set out the position of 100 x 38 common studs at 600mm c/c. Start at one end from a known corner stud and set out spacings at 600mm, working in-to-over. Place one in the centre of the door opening.

STEP 6 Finally, identify the plates using the suggested notation on page 22.

W1 W1

D2 D2

905 1190 1810

(Brickwork under Window) (no brickwork over door)

600 600 600 600 600

Place one in the centre of the door opening on top plate only.

WEST WEST

BED 1 BED 1

BOT TOP

EAST EAST

CARPENTRY - HOUSING


USING HAND TOOLS Cutting scarfs and housings using hand tools, although accurate, tends not to be an economical method when preparing for a full set of cottage frames. However, it may be a convenient method to use when only a small number of frames are constructed. Minor extension and renovation jobs are the most likely situations for using hand tools, e.g. the job may only require one or two walls to be constructed, therefore setting up and using power tools may be more time consuming or inconvenient. USING MACHINERY Portable power tools, e.g. power saw, drop saw, drop/slide saw, etc., are probably the most commonly used tools to cut framing joints, due to the ease of transporting to site and efficiency of use. The radial arm saw, complete with trenching head, will be the most efficient where a large number of frames are to be prepared and cut. However, it may not be worth while transporting and setting up the radial arm saw when only small numbers of frames are to be constructed. The benefits of using the radial arm are the consistent results, speed and quick removal of housings using the trenching head. PREFABRICATED WALL FRAMES Prefabricated or pre-cut wall frames are commonplace in the residential building sector. The system provides pre-cut, pre-assembled frames delivered to site ready to erect. Most frames are constructed from stress graded, seasoned and sized Radiata pine with a variety of seasoned hardwood or patent lintel systems. The frames come complete with either adjustable metal cross braces, cut-in metal angle braces, supplied with ply or hardboard sheet braces or a combination of these systems. The ends of the walls are butt jointed and connected using patent metal plate connectors when the frames are erected. The frames are numbered and delivered with a layout plan to allow for easy location. This system reduces on-site labour and cost with the advantage of being accurately set out, cut and assembled in a controlled quality assured environment. There are several other framing systems which may be used in load-bearing and non load-bearing situations. Non load-bearing partitions tend to be modular in design and made of lightweight components such as plywood and Aluminium. Steel frames are also used for residential and commercial structures. Steel partitions are the most common type used in commercial work, however load-bearing steel wall frames only make up a very small percentage of residential construction compared to timber.

WALL FRAMING


WALL FRAME ASSEMBLY Select a suitable level work area to assemble the frames. This may be the top of a concrete slab-on-ground or the surface of a platform timber floor. Designate an area, clear of the floor area, in which to store the completed frames ready for erection. There should be two separate stacks, i.e. one for the external walls and one for the internal walls. Prepare an erection plan so that the frames erected last are the first to be assembled, which will allow them to be placed on the bottom of the stack in the reverse order of erection. After the preparation is complete, follow the steps below to assemble the frames:

Fig. 36 Preparing and creating the outside of the wall frame

STEP 1 Select the prepared plates for the nominated wall. (the example used here is the same as used for bedroom 1/entry of the brick veneer cottage in Fig. .27) Lay them on-edge approximately one common stud length apart with the spring up, preferably with the inside face of the frame up as well to ensure that studs may be kept flush with the plates on the inside. Select corner and wall intersection studs, also with the spring up, and fix them into position.

STEP 2 Select and fix special door and window studs into position. Then place all other common studs and fix them into position. Note: Sight the edge of each stud to ensure the spring is up in all studs.

Top plate inside edge

38mm corner stud

38mm intersecting wall corner studs

Bottom plate inside edge

50mm corner stud/door stud

Recessed edge concrete slab on-ground

CARPENTRY - HOUSING


Fig. 37 Fixing door, window and common studs

Fig. 38 Fix lintel, noggings and trimmers

STEP 3 Fix the lintel, trimmers, blocking, noggings and trimming studs into place.

Door studs checked out

weekly for trimmer

Window studs checked out

ready for lintel and sill

Remaining com-mon studs fixed into place

Fix head trimmer

Blocking for wall fixing

Fix trimming studs

Fix noggings

Fix lintel and sill trimmer

Fix trimming studs over lintel

WALL FRAMING


Fig. 39 Square frame and attach sheet bracing

STEP 4 The frame is then squared by measuring the diagonals and adjusting the frame until both diagonals are exactly the same measurement. Diagonal metal braces with tensioners, metal angle and timber batten braces may be fitted flush with the face on the inside. They are used where the panel size allows them to be placed at approximately 45° and the brace will not pass across a door or window opening. To achieve the 45° angle the brace is laid across the face of the frame with one end meeting the top corner intersection and the bottom placed in a distance equal to the height of the frame, from the end. Where small panels between openings occur, sheet bracing is the preferred method of bracing. Due to the thickness of the sheets, i.e. 3mm up to 9mm, they are fixed on the outside of the frame or if used internally, they must cover the whole surface of the wall, to prevent a step occurring in the lining sheets. Therefore, it will be necessary to flip the frame over to fit the sheets on the cavity side of the wall, as shown below:

STEP 5 Repeat the process for all the frames and stack them, in a convenient place for easy access, off the ground on gluts. They should be stacked in the reverse order so that the last frame on the stack is the first frame required for erection. As previously mentioned, create separate stacks for internal and external walls to prevent unnecessary moving and re-stacking of frames.

Top of bracing is temporarily nailed to allow for adjustment during erection

Frame flipped over to allow fixing

of sheets Sheet bracing nailed off along bottom

CARPENTRY - HOUSING


WALL FRAME ERECTION PROCEDURES PREPARATION Prior to standing frames, the slab or timber floor frame should be checked for overall size and square. This is critical, as load-bearing wall frames may only over-sail the edge of the supporting floor by 15mm maximum. This also applies to the external brickwork on a recessed slab edge where the cavity is maintained at 40mm, as an increase in overall frame size will increase the overall brickwork size as well. Therefore, careful checking of the floor structure will allow for frame position adjustment and will prevent excessive over-sail on only one side. The following procedure may be adopted to allow for quick, easy and accurate frame erection:

Fig. 40 Check slab for square and set out all frame positions

STEP 1 Check the overall size of the floor frame or slab and check for square. Where a slab-on-ground is used, frame positioning is best identified by setting out all the wall positions using a chalk flick-line. A small amount of time spent prior to erection could save massive amounts of wasted time trying to adjust frame positions once all the frames are standing. Check the diagonals of the slab over the largest area, then start from one square corner setting out all the frames by chalking onto the slab as shown below: Note: The set out below is based on the brick veneer cottage shown in Fig. 27

Set out all wall frames on the slab using a chalk line

Start the setout from a known square corner

Measure diagonals for equal length

WALL FRAMING


Fig. 41 Stand a corner and temporarily brace frames

STEP 2 Start at the square corner and erect two external frames. Nail the bottom plates at the ends of each plate only. Don’t nail the plate between the door studs, as this section of plate will be removed at the completion of the erection procedure. Nail external corner scarf joints together or skew nail through plates and then fix a metal connector plate if walls are butt jointed together. Attach temporary braces to the ends of the frames to provide a rigid corner and firm attachment points for the next lot of frames. These temporary braces may be cleated to the concrete floor or attached to pegs driven into the foundation material around the outside. Note: It is preferable to have at least two persons to lift and position frames, which makes it easier and safer than one person.

Ends of frames nailed to slab

Cleats nailed to slab

Temporary braces

Sheet braces hold walls square ready for adjustment

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CARPENTRY - HOUSING WALL FRAMING - Wikispacesmikestrade.sydneyinstitute.wikispaces.net/file/view/wall+frames... · Zincalume, boxed with plywood sheeting and combinations of timber