CARPENTRY - HOUSING DOOR AND WINDOW FIXINGWINDOW FIXINGyear3shopfitting.wikispaces.com/file/view/Joinery doors.pdf... · DOOR AND WINDOW FIXINGWINDOW FIXING This text introduces subject

CARPENTRY - HOUSING

© TAFE NSW Construction and Transport Division

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DOOR AND DOOR AND DOOR AND DOOR AND

WINDOW FIXINGWINDOW FIXINGWINDOW FIXINGWINDOW FIXING

This text introduces subject matter related to the manufacture and installation of residential external doors and windows. It builds on knowledge and skills acquired during the first stage of the course, which should be revised and practiced throughout the text. Reference may be made to “Basic Building and Construction Skills”, produced by TAFE and Addison, Wesley, Longman Australia Pty Limited, to re-examine and reinforce these basic skills. There are two parts to this text, PART 1 –Doors and PART 2 –Windows , which address the following Definitions related to doors and windows, including associated accessories, the materials used and the preparation of members to allow for frame, door and sash manufacture. Timber and metal frames, doors and windows are dealt with in relation to installation requirements, manufacturers details and schedules. Flashings for heads and sills are described, including materials used and methods of finishing off the frames internally and externally. This text also covers calculation of opening sizes, frame/lining members, their lengths, quantities and costs. A comprehensive ‘Glossary of Terms’ is included at the end of this unit, which provides a detailed description of trade terms, technical content and some trade jargon.

DOOR AND WINDOW FIXING


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Definitions:

Door: “A hinged, pivoted or sliding assembly constructed of timber, metal or composite materials to enclose a space, passage or item of furniture. The primary functions of a door are to provide security and privacy, while enabling movement from one space to another.” Door blank: This is an oversize, solid core, flush door manufactured so that it can be cut down on-site to suit the required opening size. Door block: This is a temporary holding device designed to hold a door in a horizontal position on edge, to allow ease of setting out and fitting hinges, latches or mortice locks. Door buffer or stop: This is a device designed to protect the door or wall from damage when the door is opened. The buffer or stop cushions the impact and prevents door handles from being driven through the wall linings. Door closer: This is a mechanical device with a hydraulic spring or electro-magnetic mechanism that automatically closes the door to prevent it from slamming. Another name for this device is a ‘Door check’. Door-frame: This is the structural timber or metal frame surrounding the door to provide a rebated seal or track in which the door is fitted. It consists of two vertical stiles, a head and may also have a sill or threshold. Door furniture: This refers to any added pieces of hardware on the door, such as locks and handles, push plates, coat hooks, hinges, closers, weather-strips, etc. It may also be referred to as ‘Iron mongery’ or ‘Door hardware’. Door handle: This is any type of handle, knob, lever, pull, etc. , of a suitable size, which may be used to open, close or slide a door. Door-frame head: This refers to the top horizontal section of a door-frame. It may be rebated, have a channel or be fitted with a track. Door jambs or stiles: This is sometimes used to describe the whole Door-frame, but more specifically it describes the two vertical stiles of the door frame. Door leaves: These are two or more individual sections, which together form the ‘door’ in a door opening. Door lining: This is the surround on which internal doors are hung or slide. They are generally square dressed members with no rebate, or have planted stops. They may also be referred to as ‘Reveal linings’. Door light: This refers to the glass panels or ‘lights’ in a glazed door. The door may be referred to as having one or up to twelve lights, depending on the number of panes of glass in it.

PART 1 : DOORS – Introduction to Doors

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Door lock block: This is a block of timber, approx. 300 to 400mm long, fitted inside a hollow core door on the side pre-determined to be the lock side. It provides a solid member to drill through to enable screw fixing and support for the lock. Door panel: This is a sheet or block of timber, glass or other material, which has its edges rebated or recessed into the framing members of a panelled door. The panels may be raised, recessed, splayed, etc. Door pull: This is a handle usually mounted on both sides of the closing edge of a sliding door for the purpose of opening or closing the door. They may be surface mounted or recessed flush and are also referred to as Flush pulls. Door set: This term is usually applied to pre-fabricated door and frame units, which consist of a door-frame with a door hung in it, stops fitted, door furniture and architraves. The architraves may be removed from one side to allow fitting or the door-frame may be a special Split type. Door sill or threshold: This is the bottom horizontal member of an external door-frame to provide weatherproofing. Doorway: This is any entrance, opening or passage into a building or room, which is opened or closed by a door. Mullion: This is a vertical member placed between door jambs or stiles to provide a solid break between doors or a door and a fixed panel or side light. Transom: This is a horizontal member placed between the door and the door-frame head. It may be used to create a fanlight section above the door.

DOOR JAMBS and THRESHOLDS MATERIALSSSS

There are a variety of timbers used for external jambs and thresholds, which have good durability qualities to resist the ravages of the weather. Less durable timbers such as Oregon, Meranti, Tasmanian oak, etc. may also be used for jamb linings provided they are well protected from direct weathering and have a durable surface finish applied. Some other preferred timbers for external use are:

Note: Timber used for sills or thresholds – ‘T’ and jamb linings – ‘J’

USE TIMBER USE TIMBER

T J,T J T T T T

• Kwila; • Rose Mahogany; • Messmate; • Yellow Siris; • Sydney Blue Gum; • Red River Gum; • Karri;

T J,T T

J,T J,T J

J,T

• Tallowwood; • Western Red Cedar; • Blackbutt; • Kapur; • Queensland Maple; • Silky Oak; • Grey Gum.



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COMMON TIMBER PROFILES

Stiles and Heads

Single and double rebated profiles are available in the following standard nominal sizes: 75 x 38 100 x 38 125 x 38 150 x 38 175 x 38 Special sizes are also available with thicknesses out of 50 to 75mm, for increased security. Entry doors are thicker than internal doors, for increased security, therefore the rebate size will be 42 x 12mm up to 44 x 13mm. Double rebated jambs are available to allow for secure fitting of external security screen doors.

Fig. 1 Jamb stock material profiles Mullions and Transoms The mullions are the vertical double rebated members placed between the stiles to allow the door to be hung on a stile and locked to the mullion or hung on one mullion and locked to the other. The purpose of two mullions is to allow fixed timber or glass sidelight panels to be inserted on either side of the door. A transom is the horizontal member placed between the top edge of the door and the head of the door-frame, to allow the fixing of glass.

Mullions and transoms are available in the same widths as stiles but have heavier nominal thicknesses of 50 to 75mm.

Fig. 2 Mullion profile Thresholds

A threshold is placed across the base of the door-frame to provide a border for floor coverings to abut, provide a serviceable entry surface for foot traffic and provide weatherproofing from driven rain. Thresholds may be made of solid rebated hardwood timber, solid stone, slate, ceramic tiles or precast terrazzo (imitation stone).

Fig. 3 Various threshold profiles

44

13

38

24 44

13

38

Single Rebate

Double Rebate

13 13

44

42

20

38

Solid Timber

Double Rebated joints

Single Rebated jamb

Brass Dowel

Terrazzo 260

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Storm moulds

Storm moulds are fitted and tacked to the face edge of the jamb stiles and head prior to the installation of the jamb. The sides may be adjusted to suit brick bond, but ideally they should be set in 5 to 10mm from the outside of the stiles. This provides a weathered joint between the brickwork and the jamb, to prevent rain and wind being driven straight through, and it allows the brick bed joints to remain full behind the mould. Storm moulds may be quadrant, splayed or square dressed in profile.

Fig. 4 Position of storm mould Fig. 5 Parts of the door-frame COMMON METAL PROFILES

Steel Door-frames

These steel door-frames are usually prefabricated, primed, fitted with welded or riveted hinges and have a strike plate assembly fitted to the lock stile. Although these frames may be used internally and externally in brick veneer construction, they are generally used in conjunction with a single skin of brickwork for the rear garage entry door, for residential work. The mitred joints may be of a tab and slot or welded connection. The frames come with temporary spreaders across the base to assist with installation.

Fig. 6 Typical steel door jamb details

Reinforcing plate welded behind the mitred architrave

Lugs slit for easier assembly

Slots for lugs (joints may also be welded)

The dimensions shown are standard for all studwork frames and single skin brickwork.

This dimension varies according to the stud size and thickness of the lining or to suit brickwork

Section through brick veneer

Storm mould

Raked brick joint

Fixed glass highlight

Double rebated mullion

Position of fixed sidelight

Single rebated jamb stile

Single rebated head

Double rebated transom

Position of door (Hinged side)

Solid timber Sill/threshold



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Aluminium Door-frames

These door-frames come pre-assembled with timber reveal linings and flashings. The profiles consist of a series of extruded aluminium fins connected to form tracks and the supporting frame itself. The head, stile and sill extrusions are screwed together with stainless steel self-tapping screws and sealed with a flexible silicon sealant. The sill has a flashing fitted behind the weathering fin allowing it to be built into timber framed, brick veneer or cavity construction. Standard door-frames may be manufactured to take hinged or sliding doors, however the most common type for residential construction is the horizontal sliding door system.

Fig. 7 Typical aluminium sliding door-frame details

TIMBER DOOR-FRAME ASSEMBLY

JOINTS

The four acceptable methods of joint construction between solid head and jamb stiles are: 1. Trenched head and fully let-in jamb (through housing); 2. Trenched head and bare-faced tenon (shouldered housing); 3. Partly trenched head and stepped jamb (stopped housing); and 4. Morticed head and tenon on jamb (shouldered mortice and tenon). The most commonly used are the Trenched head and fully let-in jamb and the Partly trenched head and stepped jamb. To create an accurate tight-fitting joint, use a short off-cut section of jamb stock material, when setting out the head to take the stiles. The Partly trenched or stopped housing method is used on stained or clear finished work where the architraves do not cover the joint.

Fig. 8 Common joints between head and jamb stiles

Vertical Section

Sill

Head

Stile Stopped housing

Stiles

Through housing Head

JOINTS USED FOR JAMB LININGS

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SET OUT, CUT AND ASSEMBLE DOOR-FRAMES The following steps outline the method used to set out, cut and assemble door-frames ready to be installed into the external wall of a brick veneer cottage, using a stock size 2040 x 820 x 40mm door. Refer to Unit 8 to determine the width and height of the frame opening. The width of the opening should be equal to the overall width of the door-frame, plus 10mm either side for clearance.

Fig. 10 Mark the thickness of the stile

STEP 1 Select a length of jamb stock material, square one end and mark the length, which should be equal to the width of the wall frame opening. Note: Allow 2mm clearance either side for stain and 3mm either side for a paint finish. Formula: Length = door width + jambs + clearances

= 820 + (25 + 25) + (3 + 3) + (10 + 10) ∴ Minimum opening width = 896mm

Fig. 9 Mark and cut head to length

STEP 2 Measure in 10mm from one end and square a line across the face of the head. Use an off-cut length of jamb stock material, on its end, to set out the width for the through housing, then square a parallel line across the face of the head.

Head

896 min.

Jamb off-cut

Head of Door frame

Mark both Sides of Off-cut



8

Fig. 11 Mark the depth of rebate

Fig. 12 Mark out and cut the second housing

STEP 3 Lay the rebated section of the off-cut over the outside edge of the head and mark the depth of the rebate, which will also be the depth of the housing.

STEP 4 Cut out the housing, using the same method of jointing as practiced in Unit 2 – Basic Hand Tools 2 / Joinery Skills, under the sub-heading of Construct a Through Housing Joint.

STEP 5 Stand the off-cut in the prepared housing and mark out the finished width of the door (820mm) plus two lots of 3mm clearance to allow for a paint finish (6mm). Therefore, measure 826mm from the inside of the jamb rebate to the inside of the jamb rebate at the other end. Square this mark across the rebate section and transfer it to the top edge. Place the inside face of the jamb off-cut rebate on this mark, then mark the inside and outside faces onto the head. Prepare the second housing as for the first and then cut out the waste.

Head of door-frame

Jamb off-cut

Mark depth at bottom edge of off-cut

2nd position for jamb off-cut

Mark both sides of off-cut

Head of door-frame

1st position for jamb off-cut

826

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Fig. 14 Assemble stiles and head

STEP 6

STEP 7

Select two straight lengths of jamb stock material, square one end and mark the length, which should be equal to the height of the wall frame opening, less clearances. Formula: Height = door height + jamb + threshold + clearances

= 2040 + 25 + 25 + (3 + 3) + 10 ∴ Minimum opening height = 2106mm The cutting length of the stiles however, will be: = 2040 + 3 + (3 + 3) = 2049mm Assemble the door-frame. Lay the two jamb stiles on a flat surface with the rebates on the top side, spaced parallel to suit the head.

Fig. 13 Mark and cut stiles to length

Push the ends of the stiles against a solid vertical surface, apply glue to the housings on the head, fit head against ends of stiles and nail through with three flat head or bullet head nails of a suitable length. Ensure the inside edges of the rebates are aligned. Repeat process to fit the threshold.

Top of flooring or joist

3 3

16

22

2049

Jam

b st

ile le

ngth

External door

2040

2106

10

3 25

Glue and nail head to end of stiles

Joint flush this side

Door side rebate

Stud wall



10

Fig. 15 Temporarily brace the door-frame ready for installation

INSTALLATION OF DOOR-FRAMES External door-frames installed in timber framed construction require little preparation as the opening in the frame is pre-determined, with packing clearances, and the door studs are usually fixed in their final position. External door-frames installed into cavity brick, brick veneer and single brick construction require some additional preparation, as the opening is usually placed to suit brick bond. This involves the adjustment of brick perpend joints, in the horizontal plane, to allow the brick reveals to finish to the back of the storm moulds of the door-frame while maintaining equal thickness perpend joints and full or half bricks for the wall. Note: It may not always be possible to maintain full or half bricks where there are many door or window openings in one wall.

STEP 8 Square up the frame and fit temporary diagonal braces to make the frame rigid and ready for installation. Cut and tack storm moulds to the outside edges, allowing a 5mm minimum quirk back from the rebated edge. Brickwork is laid tight against the back of the moulds. Store the door-frame upright leaning against a wall or flat on a platform floor. Note: If the door-frame does not have a threshold fitted to it, cut and fit a temporary spreader between the rebates, approximately 75mm up from the bottom ends of stiles.

Threshold fitted

Fit temporary braces

Adjust frame for square and check diagonals

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POSITIONING OPENINGS TO SUIT BRICK BOND Cavity Brick Construction Front entry doors are normally placed in narrow entry areas and therefore the brick nibs on either side will determine the position. Where an external door-frame is to be placed in a plain front, side or rear wall it should be placed as close as possible to the position noted on plan. To do this the brickwork bond may require some minor adjustment by opening or closing the perpend joints to suit the size of the brick panels on either side of the door-frame. Note: Perpend joints are normally 10mm wide and may only be varied by ± 2mm for each joint. Once the bond for the wall has been determined the door-frame is positioned and temporarily braced to the floor while it is being built-in to the cavity work.

Fig. 16 Position door-frame and brace to the floor To maintain the correct position of the door-frame, temporary braces are skew nailed to the top of the frame, the frame is checked for plumb and wind, then the bottom ends are fixed to the joists or platform flooring. Regular checks should be made on the frame position during bricklaying to ensure it has not moved out of plumb or wind, due to progressive nailing off of frame ties.

Temporary braces used to hold the door-frame, plumb and in wind during the bricklaying process.

Floor joists

Brick gauge set from corner to back of storm mould

Terrazzo Threshold

Storm moulds



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Bonding Door-frames into Cavity Brick Construction The door-frames must comply with the following requirements to ensure they are correctly and firmly bonded to the brickwork: • Where the door-frame is in the same plane as either the internal or external skin:

(1) A minimum of four (4) galvanised steel straps or frame ties are to be fixed to the back of each jamb stile at maximum vertical spacings of 600mm apart with a minimum of two (2) galvanised clouts or screws, which penetrate the jamb stile by at least 20mm deep; and

(2) The straps or ties should be no less than 200 x 25 x 1.5mm thick with a corrugated or deformed end to allow proper keying into bed joints.

• Where the door-frame closes the cavity between the two skins:

(1) They should be built-in as above with; (2) A continuous timber batten, at least 42 x 35mm, shall be attached to the back of the

jambs with galvanised nails, which penetrate at least 20mm deep into the jamb material; and

(3) The batten should fit tightly between the skins of brickwork to prevent any lateral movement and be of a minimum durability Class 2 timber or be treated to reach same class.

The stiles should be weatherproofed by fitting a full height flashing to the outside edges of the frame or allowing the outer side of the jamb stiles to be covered by at least 5mm of brick reveal to prevent rain and/or wind being driven straight through the joint. The later method used in conjunction with storm moulds is the preferred method.

Fig. 17 Alternate methods used to build-in door-frames to cavity brickwork/masonry

Jamb stile Galvanised frame tie

Vertical flashing

280 Cavity brickwork SAME PLANE AS ONE SKIN

Solid core entry door

Timber threshold

Sill bricks

Jamb stile Solid core entry door

Terrazzo threshold

Dowel into threshold

Storm mould

280 Cavity brickwork

CLOSING THE CAVITY

Timber cavity cleat

Galvanised frame tie

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Brick Veneer Construction Front entry doors for brick veneer construction, are also normally placed in narrow entry areas and therefore the brick nibs on either side will determine the position. Where an external door-frame is to be placed in a plain front, side or rear wall it should be placed as close as possible to the position noted on plan. To do this the brickwork bond may require some minor adjustment by opening or closing the perpend joints to suit the size of the brick panels on either side of the door-frame. Note: Perpend joints are normally 10mm wide and may only be varied by ± 2mm for each joint. To allow for sideways adjustment, many pre-fabricated wall frames have floating secondary jamb studs. This means that the structural load is supported by fixed door studs, which allow the secondary jamb studs to be moved sideways in the opening up to half a brick length. The door-frame may also be moved sideways to align with the brick reveals. This method gives more flexibility with door position and adjustment of bond. Once the door-frame position is established, the secondary jamb studs are fixed off top and bottom, the bottom plate is cut out between the studs and the door-frame is installed. The door-frames must comply with the following requirements to ensure they are correctly and firmly fixed to the timber frame: • The door-frame jamb stiles should be fixed to the jamb studs with galvanised or aluminium

nails, screws or bolts at a vertical spacing of not more than 600mm apart for the full height of the jambs. If nailing, the nails should be minimum 3.15mm diameter and long enough to penetrate not less than 20mm into the jamb studs;

• Adequate waterproofing to the stiles should be provided. This may be by way of vertical

flashings or the outside edge of the jamb should be recessed behind the brick reveals a minimum of 5mm either side and fitted with storm moulds.

Fig. 18 Method of door-frame placement and fixing for brick veneer construction

Secondary jamb stud

Solid packing Door stud

Solid core entry door

Terrazzo threshold

Dowel into threshold

Storm mould

240 Brick Veneer



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Single Brick Construction The most common position for door-frames in single brick construction is in the garage where the walls are single skin with engaged piers. The rear entry door is usually a single hung door fitted to a solid single rebate door-frame. The door-frame is prepared similar to cavity brick construction by placing the frame on the slab edge and holding it in position with temporary braces while the brickwork is being laid. To assist with building in of frames, brick piers may be placed on either side of the frame allowing a vertical flashing to be built in during construction. These door-frames do not normally have a threshold fitted to them as they rely on the slab edge to provide weathering, by finishing the external paving below the top edge. The door-frames must comply with the following requirements to ensure they are correctly and firmly fixed to the timber frame: • A minimum of four (4) galvanised steel straps should be double fixed to the back of each

jamb stile with galvanised clouts or screws, not less than 2.5mm in diameter. They should penetrate the jamb stile by at least 20mm and be spaced at Max. vertical spacings of 600mm; and

• The straps should be of the same size and type as described for cavity brick construction

and built into the bed joints of the brickwork. Adequate weatherproofing should be provided by means of a vertical flashing or applying a vertical bead of a suitable flexible sealant behind the storm mould.

Fig. 19 Method of door-frame placement and fixing for single brick construction

Galv. Frame tie External door

Garage slab edge

Sealant behind storm mould

110 Single brick wall

Galv. Frame tie Attached pier

External door

Garage slab edge

Pier stepped back from face work or a vertical flashing is built into joint

110 Single brick wall with attached pier

Storm mould

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Positioning Door-frames for Single Brick Walls The position is set out as for cavity and brick veneer, i.e. to suit brick bond. Timber or steel frames are constructed with temporary spreaders at the bottom of the frames. Steel frames usually have temporary metal angles or a one-piece spreader attached to the bottom of the jamb stiles, which allows them to be tacked to the slab or weighted down with bricks to stop the bottom from moving during installation. Temporary timber braces are attached to the head of the frame and pinned to a timber block, which is in turn is also weighted down with bricks. Note: Nailing the timber block to the slab should be avoided as removal of the block later also removes a chunk of concrete, which is difficult to patch successfully.

Fig. 20 Method of holding the door-frame during installation for single brick construction Timber or metal door-frames may be used for single brick wall construction. Metal frames are commonly used as they provide better security, due to the strength of the steel and require less maintenance than timber frames. Special galvanised door-frame ties are used to build steel door-frames into the single skin of brickwork. They simply clip into the back of the flanges with the ‘V’-section being built into the brick bed joints. The hollow back of the jamb stile is filled with mortar progressively to provide a solid jamb on completion.

Fig. 21 Method of building-in metal door-frames to single brick walls

Bricks to hold cleats

Alternative masonry nail fixing cleat

Temporary spreader angles

Wire frame ties built in as brickwork is laid

Steel door-frame with welded corners

Bricks to hold bottom of frame

Wire frame tie Solid mortar fill

Edge of slab

Temporary spreader angles

Single 110 mm brick wall

Detail of head support



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Check for Level, Plumb and Wind Once the door-frame is correctly positioned it must be adjusted for correct fit by checking the following: • Level – The head should be checked for level to ensure the door will remain ajar, without

opening or closing by itself. If the head is out of level then, to make the door fit the frame without planing the top or bottom edges, the jamb stiles will end up out of plumb. To check the head for level, use a shorter type of spirit level, which will fit between the rebates easily. A suitable type would be similar to the 800mm (32”) ‘I-beam’ level;

• Plumb – The stiles should be checked for plumb and straight to ensure the door will fit the

door-frame with minimal planing or adjustment. Similar to the head being out of level, the stiles should be kept plumb to ensure the door will remain ajar, without opening or closing by itself. To check for plumb and straight, use a long straight edge of at least 2.0m to ensure the full length of the jamb stile is being checked for straight and plumb. Note: The straight edge must be dead straight, parallel and of a light stable material, such as aluminium or Western red cedar timber. Place a spirit level in the vertical position on the outside edge of the straight edge and check one stile for straight and plumb. Providing the frame has been made parallel, the opposite stile will automatically become plumb at the same time. Check the opposite stile for straight, using the straight edge, before nailing or bracing into position; and

• Wind – If the door-frame is fitted

with a twist the edges of the jamb stiles will be out of vertical alignment. This is referred to as being ‘out of wind’. If the stiles are not pulled back into wind, then the door will close with the face only touching parts of the rebated section. This will create the effect of a twist in the door causing it to rattle when closed or it may affect the fit of the latch in the strike-plate or keeper. The stiles may simply be sighted for wind by setting one stile in the correct position and adjusting the other until the edges are viewed as being parallel. If it is not possible to get back far enough on one side to sight over the edges, place a straight edge on one stile edge to provide enough angle to align the opposite stile with the straight edge. Fig. 22 Method of checking the fit of door-frames

Spirit level used to check head for level

Sighting over edges of stiles to check wind.

Straight edge and spirit level used to check for plumb

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Flashing to Sill / Threshold Where solid timber thresholds are part of external door-frames they require a flashing fitted prior to installation, to provide a weatherproof sill area. The flashing may be of lead, zinc, aluminium coated with bitumen (similar to ‘Alcore’) or textured polythylene (similar to ‘Rencourse’). The flashing should form a sealed tray under the threshold to allow any water, driven under by wind, to escape to the outside. The back and ends of the flashing are turned up on the inside of the threshold, folded and crimped at the corners. The corners are not cut, otherwise the flashing would be rendered useless. The front edge is folded down, after the door-frame has been installed, and built into the external brickwork. Sill bricks or ceramic tiles are then laid over the flashing to protect and complete the threshold entry area. Note: Refer to AS/NZS 2904: 1995 – Damp-proof courses ad flashings, for types, finishes and thickness required.

Fig. 23 Fitting a flashing to a solid timber threshold

Jamb Stile

External corner joint of flashing is bent and crimped, not cut, to form a sealed corner

Lead or Alcore sill/threshold flashing

Flashing turned up at ends and back

Solid timber threshold



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Head Flashing and Position of Threshold Where external frames are installed into timber framed construction the head of the frame requires a flashing to prevent wind and rain water being driven inside. Various materials may be used to flash heads and sills, such as lead, zinc, aluminium, etc., provided it can be bent and moulded to suit profiled members. Head flashings are places under the cladding board or sheet directly above the head of the frame and folded down over the top edge of the architrave or finishing member. Note: Fixings must not penetrate the flashing and should be held in place by the cladding material.

Fig. 24 Head flashing position for external door-frames

Where the threshold is fitted to the top of joists it should be supported for its full length to prevent sag or bounce. The thickness of the threshold, the type of flooring used and the finish to the floor surface will determine whether or not the threshold is checked into the ends of joists or placed on top. The sill flashing is bent down over the cladding and has an apron mould fitted to cover the exposed flashing. The drip groove under the front edge prevents capillary action by breaking the horizontal flow of rain water.

Fig. 25 Positioning the threshold

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CALCULATION OF DOOR-FRAME MATERIALS Door-frames for stock size doors, e.g. 870, 820, 770, 720, 620, are available in standard sets, which may be purchased pre-fabricated or ready to knock up on-site. The total number of sets, in stock sizes, are obtained by counting them on the cottage plans and then ordering the sets required. For special door sizes, doors other than stock sizes or if the preferred method is to make your own, the material may be ordered in lineal metres with rebate sizes to suit external or internal doors, as follows: Example 1: Calculate the total lineal metres of solid double rebated jamb stock material for one (1) 820mm entry door having two fixed sidelights 400mm wide and a timber threshold, one (1) single 820mm rear entry door with a timber threshold and one (1) single 820mm rear garage door with no threshold. The door-frames are to be set onto a concrete slab and have a stained finish.

Fig. 26 Horizontal section of head for entry door with fixed sidelights

Fig. 27 Horizontal section of head for a single door

STEP 1 Calculate the length of the head for the entry door with two sidelights: = 10 + 20 + 400 + 20 + 820 + 4 + 20 + 400 + 20 + 10 = 1724mm, say 1/ 1.8

STEP 2 Calculate the length of the heads for the other two (2) single doors: = 10 + 25 + 820 + 4 + 25 + 10 = 894mm, say 2/ 900 – 1/ 1.8

STEP 3 Calculate the length of the thresholds for the front and rear entry doors: Allow the same length for heads: ∴ 1/ 900, 1/ 1.8 = say 1/ 2.7

Mullions

10 20 400 20 (820 door + 4 clearance) 20 400 20 10

(820 door + 4 clearance) 25 10 10 25



20

Fig. 28 Vertical section to show length of jamb stiles and mullions

Example 2: Calculate the cost of DAR Meranti stiles and DAR Tallowwood thresholds for the door-frames in Example 1:

COST SHEET

STEP 4 Calculate the length of the jamb stiles for all three (3) doors: = 2 + 2040 + 6 = 2048mm, say 2.1m ∴ 6/ 2.1

STEP 5 Calculate the length of the mullions for the front entry door: = 2 + 2040 + 6 + 22 = 2048, say 2.1m ∴ 2/ 2.1

Size Sub- Total Member Width Thickness Length Number Total Length Rate/m Cost

Heads

125

42

1.8

2

3.6

Stiles

125

42

2.1

6

12.6

16.2

$18.00

$291.60

Mullions

125

50

2.1

2

4.2

4.2

$18.00

$75.60

Thresholds

150

42

2.7

1

2.7

2.7

$16.50

$44.55

$411.75

TOTAL COST

2 20

40

3 3

16

22

2048

Jam

b st

ile le

ngth

External door

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DOORS – EXTERNAL

COMMON ENTRY DOOR SETS External doors may be hung or sliding and designed to fit a variety of door-frames. Front entry doors are usually of the hung or hinged type, which open inwards. They are thicker than internal doors, i.e. 40mm as opposed to 35mm for internal doors, and constructed of solid timber or solid core materials for security. They may be single, double, have timber or glass sidelights, have a fixed glass fanlight, highlight or combinations of these. Rear entry and laundry doors may be single or double horizontal sliders, have a half sidelight or simply be a single hung door.

Fig. 29 Common external door-frame combinations

Indicates side lock

Hinged side

F.G.

SINGLE DOOR DOUBLE SLIDING DOOR SINGLE WITH HALF SIDELIGHT

F.G.

SINGLE WITH SIDELIGHT

F.G. F.G.

SINGLE WITH DOUBLE SIDELIGHT

F.G.

SINGLE WITH HIGHLIGHT

DOUBLE DOORS WITH REBATED LOCK STILES

SINGLE WITH SIDELIGHTS AND HIGHLIGHT

SINGLE WITH FANLIGHT



22

COMBINATION DOOR and WINDOW SETS Doors may be combined with windows, which contain opening sashes or fixed glass. The sets shown here have the door hinged on one side, using the fixed glass panel to allow for maximum strength and security for the lock side. If the window has an opening sash then the door may be hinged on the opposite side to allow maximum ventilation and minimum obstruction when the door and window are opened at the same time. Special sliding door types may also be used, however these would mainly be used for a residence having a person with a disability or would be used for commercial applications. Note: The placement of the dotted angle on the doors to indicate hinge and lock sides is in accordance with the current AS 1100.301 – 1985 and supplement AS 1100.301 Supplement 1 – 1986. F.G. – stands for Fixed Glass.

Fig. 30 Common external door and window combinations

FIXED LIGHTS a) single b) With transome c) Including chair rail

F.G.

F.G. F.G.

F.G. F.G.

a b c

F.G.

a b

F.G.

F.G.

DOOR SETS WITH SIDELIGHTS

a) Fixed half side-light b) Fixed full side-light with transome and chair rail

Hinge side Lock side

F.G.

F.G.

F.G. F.G.

F.G. F.G.

a b

DOOR SETS WITH COMBINATION SIDELIGHTS

a) Fixed half side-light b) Sash side-light

COMBINATION SET WITH RAKED CEILING HIGHLIGHT

FIXED DOOR

F.G. F.G.

GLAZED WALL SET WITH DOORS AND WINDOWS CLASSIC ARCHI-TECTURAL DOOR WITH FANLIGHT

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS DOOR WITH FIXED HIGHLIGHT

F.G.

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MAIN TYPES OF DOORS There are three main groups of external doors: • Flush doors; • Framed doors; and • Panelled doors. Flush Doors These doors are available in hollow core, for internal use, and solid core, for external use. Solid core doors may be made from well seasoned, straight grained built-up timber sections laminated together and covered with thin weather-resistant plywood on both faces. They may also be made from particleboard or medium density fibreboard (MDF) faced with plywood both sides. The edges are usually edge-stripped with 10 to 13mm thick strips of solid timber to finish the edge and provide good fixing for the hinges and cylinder latch plate. The edge strip may be planted to suit the full thickness of the door or have the plywood facing over its edges. The face of the door may also have deep routered designs cut into it. This type of surface design is best suited to doors, which have a paint finish. These front or rear entry doors may also have glass or leadlight panels to allow light entry and provide added decoration.

Fig. 31 Traditional solid core manufacture

Fig. 32 Typical contemporary solid carved doors (courtesy of Corinthian Doors)

Kiln dried glue jointed solid core

Cross band veneer

Face veneer

Edge strip to match face veneer

SOLID CORE FLUSH DOOR

DETAIL OF SOLID CORE

PARTICLE BOARD ALTERNATIVE

Solidcarve PST 3 Crystal Leaf Solidcarve PST 4 Imperial Leadlight

Solidcarve PSC 3 White Lattice

PSCSL 4G Stem Flower

Solidcarve PSC 4 PSCSL 4G Solidcarve PSC 4G Imperial Leadlight

PSCSL 4G PSCSL 4G Solidcarve PSC 5 Trellis



24

FRAMED DOORS There are three main types of external framed doors: • Ledged only; • Ledged and braced; and • Framed, ledged and braced. Ledged Only

These doors are mainly used in areas where the appearance is not critical, such as a rear laundry, garage door, shed or workshop door. They consist of three ledges with only the outside face being sheeted, using tongue and grooved vertical or diagonal boards. This exposes the framing on the inside face and shows the clinched nails on the inside of the rails. The nails are driven through the sheeting and the ledge with approximately 6mm protruding. They are then bent over or ‘clinched’ in the direction of the grain and punched below the surface. Clinching is a quick, cheap way of securing the sheeting to the ledges. The sheeting may also be screwed.

Fig. 33 Simple ledged door with sheeting one side

‘A’ Tongued, grooved and beaded ‘B’ Tongued, grooved and V-jointed

LINING BOARD PROFILES

NOTE: This unbraced door has a tendency to sag as shown ‘x’ without diagonal bracing

Clinched nails

T-Hinge

T&G boards, flooring or lining

OUTSIDE FACE SIDE VIEW LEDGED DOOR

INSIDE FACE

Ledge

Ledge

Ledge

A

B

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OUTSIDE FACE

CUT-IN BRACE

BUTT JOINTED BRACE

INSIDE FACE

Note direction of brace support

Hinged edge Closing edge

Ledged and Braced Doors fitted with ledges only, tend to sag at the lock side due to shrinkage of the sheeting and loosening of the nails. This movement may be reduced by placing the nails as far apart as possible, without putting them too close to the edges of the sheeting or ledges. To give more support to the sheeting and to prevent the lock side from sagging, inclined braces may be fitted. These braces are usually the same section size as the ledges and placed on top of the ledge at the hinge side running up to the underside of the next ledge at the lock side. The braces may be butt jointed or cut-in to the edge of the ledge, with the sheeting nailed to them and clenched.

Fig. 34 Ledged and braced door



26

Framed Ledged and Braced This door has a framework consisting of stiles and rails, which are mortised and tenoned together, with diagonal braces fitted between stiles and ledges or rails. The face of the door is covered with tongue and grooved boards, which may have beaded or ‘V’-joint edges. To allow for the sheeting, the bottom and middle rails are reduced in thickness to allow the surface of the sheeting to finish flush with the outside face of the top rail and stiles. The top rail is also rebated or grooved to provide weather resistance. The sheeting may be nailed or screwed through the face into the rails and stiles or be secret nailed for a neater appearance. These doors may be used for rear entry doors, garage or shed doors, where appearance is not critical.

Fig. 35 Framed ledged and braced door

Stile

Bottom rail Horn

REBATED STILE

Lining boards Stile

Bottom rail GROOVED STILE

Top rail

Lining boards

FINISH TO TOP RAIL

Hinging stile

Lock stile

Lining boards

EXTERNAL FACE SECTION

Bottom rail

Middle or Lock rail

Top rail Hinge

Hinge

Hinge

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Constructing a Ledged and Braced Door The details below outline the basic method of constructing a framed ledged and braced door with vertical sheeting. The fixings should all be of a corrosion resistant type material or coated with a resistant coating like zinc, cadmium or be galvanised. The rebates, grooves and end grain should be primed prior to assembly, as the door is to be used in an external position and may be exposed directly to sun and rain.

Fig. 36 Typical framed ledged and braced construction details

Hinged stile

Internal side

Swinging stile

Diagonal brace

External side

Tongued and grooved ‘V’jointed lining boards

STANDARD CONSTRUCTION

Note upward support direction of brace from hinged side to swinging side

Hinge

Braces checked into rails

ALTERNATIVE METHOD OF BRACING

A. Top rail. Haunched tenon with long and short shoulders

B. Middle or Lock rail. Double bare-faced tenons with haunch.

C. Bottom rail. Bare-faced double haunched tenons

RAIL AND TENON VARIATIONS



28

Various Styles of Framed Doors Although these doors are rarely used in contemporary building construction they may be encountered on many cottages built for economy, during the last (20th) century, and may require repair, replacement or matching.

Fig. 37 Various styles of framed doors available

INTERNAL FACE EXTERNAL FACE INTERNAL FACE EXTERNAL FACE

Top rail

Stile

Sheeting (T.&G.’V’- Jointed lining boards

Bottom rail (a) (b) (a) (b)

Hinged side

Diagonal brace

FRAMED AND BRACED DOOR FRAMED DOOR

* Sheeting cut in. Bottom rail gives good appearance. Suitable for partly exposed conditions

Middle rail Also known as Lock rail and Ledger rail

Bottom rail

(a) (b) FRAMED AND LEDGED DOOR

** Sheeting run through. Provides better weathering in exposed positions

(a) (a)

FRAMED, LEDGED AND BRACED DOOR

Glass

(a) (b)

HALF GLAZED FRAMED AND LEDGED DOOR

Glazing bars or Leadlighting

Shelf

(a) (b)

DUTCH DOOR UPPER HALF - FRAMED AND GLAZED LOWER HALF - FRAMED AND BRACED

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PANELLED DOORS There are two main types of external panelled doors: • Traditional framed and panelled; and • Alternative solid carved or moulded panel. Traditional Framed and Panelled These doors are joinery doors with a thick solid timber outer frame consisting of stiles, top and bottom rails, mid or lock rails, frieze rails, muntins and frieze muntins. The spaces formed between these members are filled with solid timber panels, glass or plywood. The stiles and rails are usually rebated or grooved to receive the panels. These doors are specially made in joinery workshops at a very high cost.

Fig. 38 Typical classic panelled doors

Lead-light glazing

Raised Panel

Bolection mould

Glazing

Glazing Bar

Muntins

Recessed Panel

Sunk Moulding

3. GLAZED AND PANELLED

2. MODERN FOUR PANEL WITH FANLIGHT

1.LEAD-LIGHT GLAZED WITH RAISED PANELS

Insert bead

Glazed or panelled

Middle (lock) rail

Plain (grooved) panelled

Beaded (rebated) panel

4. OLD STYLE THREE PANEL

5. TRADITIONAL CLASSIC STYLE FOUR PANEL

Frieze panel

Frieze rail

Recessed panel

Raised panel

Frieze Muntin

6. SIX PANEL COMBINATION STYLE



30

Solid Timber Panels There are many solid timber panels available for panelled doors, ranging from plain plywood panels with no perimeter moulding, to decorative plywood panels with multi-shaped solid timber perimeter mouldings, to solid raised or flush panels of expensive quality timber.

Fig. 39 Various types of door panels and mouldings available

FLAT & SUNK SOLID STUCK MOULDED

RAISED MOULDED

BEAD & FLUSH PANEL

RAISED PANEL LOOSE OR PLANTED BEAD & FLUSH PANEL

BOLECTION MOULDED

INLAY MOULDED

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Manufacture of Panelled Doors Traditional panelled doors are made using stock material of 40mm thick and are available in stock heights and widths. The stiles run the full height of the door, cut square at each end, and have a groove equal to the tenon thickness on the rails, which run the full height to take the haunches of the rails and the panels between. The top rail has a matching groove on the bottom edge to take the panels. It also has a single haunched mortise and tenon joint at each end to successfully join with the stile, with the haunch used to prevent twisting and conceal the tenon within the end of the stile. The mid or lock rail has a matching groove on both edges to take the panels and a double mortise and tenon joint at each end, to provide a good joint with the stile and prevent twisting or cupping of the wider mid rail. The wide bottom rail has a matching groove on the top edge only to take the panels. The ends have double haunched mortise and tenon joints to provide good fixing with the stiles and prevent the wider rail from twisting and cupping. The wider bottom rail is designed to act as a kick rail and protect the lower portion of the decorative panel.

Fig. 40 Panelled door with matching sidelights Fig. 41 Joint details for a panelled door

Side-light

Top Rail

Middle or lock rail

Grooves for panel

Bottom rail



32

Alternative Solid Carved or Moulded Panel These doors are constructed from a variety of materials for external use. The following specifications are for stock 2040 x 820 x 40mm thick doors:

Core Material Weight Skin Species Stiles and/or Rails

Mould Finish

Medium density fibre solid core

infill

Approx. 40 – 45kg

Pre-primed or Sliced Pacific ma-

ple

25mm Meranti or pine

Moulds fitted, primed or maple

timber


Mould Finish

Medium density fibre/polyboard

infill

Approx. 30 – 35kg

Pre-primed, Sliced Pacific maple or MDF for paint



timber


Mould Finish

Laminated soft-wood core plate

Approx. 38kg

Ply for paint, Sliced Pacific maple, Tas-

manian oak or Duracote tempered

hardboard

N/A


timber or flush sur-face


Mould Finish

Solid HMR (highly moisture resistant) parti-

cleboard

Approx. 41kg

Ply for paint, Sliced Pacific maple, Tas-

manian oak or Duracote tempered

hardboard



timber or flush sur-face


Mould Finish

Laminated stiles and rails with Solid HMR

(highly moisture resistant) parti-

cleboard

Approx. 26kg

Sliced Pacific ma-ple

Meranti HMR panel inserts

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Typical Framed and Solid Door Types

Fig. 42 Contemporary panelled doors

(courtesy of Corinthian Doors)

St Regis PSR 1 PSRSL 1G St Regis PSR 1G Rose Jewel

St Regis PSR 2 Clear Bevelled Leadlight

St Regis PSR 3 Marquis Lead-light

PSRSL 2 PSRSL 3

Collingrove PINCOL Heritage Leadlight

Ayers Pinaye

Curzon Pincur Como Pincom

Barwon Pinbar Kookaburra

Como Pincom

Chifley Pinchi Waratah Leadlight

Como Pincom

Richmond Pinric Heritage Leadlight

PCLSL 10 Classic PCL 14 Classic PCL 14G Clear Bevelled Leadlight

FED 17 Federation Fed 7 Classic PCL 10 Renaisance Leadlight



34

EXTERNAL DOOR SCHEDULES External doors are available in stock or standard sizes: • Height = 2040 ( 2340max.), Width = 820 (1020max.), Thickness = 40mm (min. for ext.) Note: Special size doors are also available with increased height and/or width where greater access is required, such as for wheel chair entry. These doors will cost considerably more due to alterations of production machinery and extra materials. (Internal doors are available in varying widths of 820, 770, 720, 620 and 520mm x 35mm thick) Door schedules are provided for individual projects to ensure the correct size and finish is available to suit the position on plan. Information for the schedule is taken from the plans and specification, which should identify the location, the size, number required, type or style of door and/or sidelights, finish and hand (hinged side viewing the knuckles). Example 1: Prepare a door schedule for a typical two-storey brick veneer cottage using external doors from the Corinthian Door range.

Additional Information Double Doors The total width for double doors is given to include an allowance for a rebate of 12mm and is the total width of the doors ready for hanging. Sizes include 1120, 1228, 1420, 1428, 1528 and 1628mm. (These sizes may be up to +2mm over) Minimum Rebate Width for Glass Panels The width of the rebate for door glazing shall be: • 3 & 4mm thick glass - 10mm wide; • 5, 6, & 8mm thick glass - 15mm wide; • 10 & 12mm thick glass – 20mm wide; and • 15mm thick glass – 25mm wide.

Fig. 43 Rebate detail for glazed doors Note: All doors should be not more than 3mm out of square, when measured on the diagonals.

LOCATION SIZE NUMBER TYPE and CODE FINISH HAND

Front Entry (G.F.) 820 1 PCL 4G Classic with clear bevelled lead-

light

Gloss paint Right

Front Entry (G.F.)

400 2 PCLSL 4G Classic with clear bevelled lead-

light - Sidelight

Gloss paint N/A

Rear Laundry (G.F.) 820 1 Glass design No.2 with 5mm obscure glass

Gloss paint Left

Main Bedroom - front Balcony (U.F.)

1428 1 pair FED 40 – Federation with 5mm clear glass

Gloss paint Left

Rear Bedroom 4 (U.F.) 820 1 FED 40 – Federation with 5mm clear glass

Gloss paint Right

Rebate Width

Glazing bar Stile

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‘Handing’ Doors The ‘hand’ of the door relates to the hinged or hung side. The method used to determine the ‘hand’ is to face the side of the door, which exposes the knuckles of the hinges. Therefore, a door with hinge knuckles exposed on your right will be a right-hand hung door and a door with hinge knuckles exposed on your left will be a left-hand hung door. This applies to double rebated doors as well, with the first opening door determining the hand of the doors.

Fig. 44 Determining left and right hand hung doors Storage and Protection of Doors All doors should be laid flat on a clean level surface, when stored on-site for any length of time to prevent the doors from twisting or cupping. Doors with a twist will not close parallel with the rebate leaving a gap at either the top or bottom of the door; Doors, which are bowed or bent in the centre, will either close with a gap at the centre or close with a gap at the top and bottom. This causes a problem when the door is closed at the lock side as the latch will not engage the keeper correctly or will have to be forced to provide full engagement. Immediately after fitting and prior to hanging, the entire door, including top and bottom edges must have two coats of paint, varnish or exterior paint sealer applied. This practice has been adopted to prevent moisture from being absorbed through the surface or the top and bottom rails, as moisture will cause material swelling, material breakdown, insect attack and may lead to timber decay.

Closing face

Opening or hinge face

RIGHT-HAND HUNG

LEFT-HAND HUNG

LEFT-HAND HUNG Visible hinge knuckle

RIGHT-HAND HUNG



36

METAL DOOR-FRAMES: Aluminium Aluminium horizontally sliding external door-frames are available in a variety of sizes and combinations. They may have one fixed sash and on sliding sash, two fixed sashes and one sliding sash or two fixed sashes and two sliding sashes. The wall frame opening size is 5 to 10mm greater than the door-frame to allow for installation and packing stiles straight. The door-frame usually has a timber reveal attached to it to suit the wall thickness and type of construction. Some typical combinations are shown below:

Fig. 45 Metric modular Aluminium door-frame units

OPENING SIZE MODULE SIZE

1 810 1 800

2 110 2 100

2 410 2 400

2 710 2 700

3 010 3 000

2 100

TWO SASH UNITS

NOT MODULAR

MODULAR

1 800

NOT MODULAR

MODULAR

2 400

2 100

THREE SASH UNITS The extended (3 and 4 sash) range of door units will not fit the true metric module, because single sashes are added to modular units, and combined length is smaller than corresponding module.

2 100

2 100

MODULAR

NOT MODULAR NOT MODULAR

MODULAR

1 800

FOUR SASH UNITS

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Installation of Sliding Aluminium Frames These frames are installed similar to the timber door-frames apart from the sill, which must be straightened and supported for its full length, as most sills in brick veneer will have a brick or tiled threshold on the outside. Stile packing and fixing is the same as for timber door-frames.

Fig. 46 Sliding door-frame in brick veneer construction

Stud

Flashing

Head beam

Architrave Lining

M.S. angle Aluminium head section

Glass

Insect screen

Architrave

Aluminium section

Lining

Carpet

Mastic sealant

Insect screen

Flooring Fixing plate Floor joist

Aluminium sill section Flashing

Optional timber threshold

HORIZONTAL SECTION

VERTICAL SECTION

Sill

Head

Stile



38

Protection of Sills during Construction Care must be taken during construction to protect aluminium door sills from damage when wheel barrows and equipment are rolled across them. Also, walking on unprotected sills will damage the surface due to sand, grit or rubble on boot soles, which leads to abrasion and scratching of the surface. The correct method of protection is to build a raised plank ramp and/or cover the sill with a sacrificial box section, as shown. Other materials used for protection may be hardboard, plywood, heavy cardboard or plastic film.

Fig. 47 Protecting aluminium door sills

WRONG

RIGHT

WRONG RIGHT

Timber ramp

Sill cover

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Sliding Door Schedules Below are a number of typical sliding door schedules, reproduced courtesy of ‘Airlite Aluminium Windows and Doors’, showing stud wall frame opening size and distance between brick reveals externally, to allow for brick bond set out:

Fig. 48 Typical sliding door schedule

Note: Glass and construction of these sliding doors must comply with AS 2047 – 1999. Horizontal coloured transfers should be fitted inside to prevent accidental collision with clear glass.



40

DOOR FURNITURE

HINGES There are a wide variety of hinges available for use in residential construction, which are designed for specific purposes. These range from the simple narrow fixed or loose pin Butt hinge to the decorative and functional Parliament hinge. The more common types are as follows: Tee and Strap Hinges Tee hinges are designed to be used on simple ledged or ledged and braced doors, heavy gates, foundation access doors, etc. with the cross piece being fixed to the post or jamb and the long arm section connected to the face of the door or gate. They are available in bright steel, galvanised, nickel or cadmium plated and black-japanned finishes. Strap hinges are more likely to be used on doors or covers, which lift up rather than open laterally. Typical situations would be on fire-box lids, tool boxes, meter boxes, etc. They are available in the same finishes as the tee hinges.

Fig. 49 Tee and Strap hinges Butt Hinges These are available in both narrow and broad butt types having a fixed or loose pin. It is usual that the internal doors will have loose pin hinges, for ease of fitting, and the external doors will have fixed pin hinges, for security. They may be made of bright steel, stainless steel, aluminium or brass with finishes including satin stainless steel, polished stainless steel, polished brass and satin chrome.

Fig. 50 Proportions of butt hinges

Fig. 51 Butt hinge types

STEEL LIGHT TEE

STANDARD TEE

STEEL STRAP HINGE

BROAD LOOSE PIN NARROW FIXED PIN

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Hinges per Door For most standard external doors, doors with door closers, doors likely to receive heavy use or slamming and to reduce the effects of warping, three (3) hinges are recommended. Hinge Size Selection The following table outlines the criteria for selection of hinges based on the dimensions of the door and the weight of the door: TABLE 1 HINGE SELECTION

Special Hinge Application Heavy duty stainless steel butt hinges are recommended for use in commercial buildings with high traffic areas and steel ball bearing hinges should be used on heavy doors, aluminium or steel glazed doors, solid core doors and fire doors. Note: Stainless steel ball bearing type hinges should be used on doors fitted with closers or automatic door operating equipment such as may be found on a cottage for disabled persons. Ordering Hinges The standard method of ordering requires specification of the quantity required, the hinge series or special description, hinge height (given first), hinge width, hinge type, pin type and finish of hinge. Example 1: 10 pairs / - standard button tipped hinge, 100 x 75mm butt, fixed pin, satin chrome finish. Fixing Screws When the hinges are purchased in shop blister packs the screws are included, however when purchasing loose or bulk quantities the screws are ordered separately. These may be purchased by the number or by the box. The size required is: • 8 gauge for 75mm wide hinges; and • 10 gauge for 100mm wide hinges. Note: The holes in the hinges are sized and countersunk to take the appropriate screws. Fire Rating: Stainless steel and steel hinges have a high 4 hour rating, suitable for fire doors.

DOOR THICK-NESS (mm)

DOOR WIDTH (mm)

DOOR HEIGHT (mm)

RECOMMENDED HINGE SELECTION – Broad butt

30 – 45mm

Under 900mm

2040mm

2 / 100 x 75mm (internal doors) 3 / 100 x 75mm (external doors)

30 – 45mm

Under 900mm Between 2040mm & 2340mm Between 2340mm & 3000mm

3 / 100 x 75mm 4 / 100 x 75mm

45 – 55mm

Under 1050mm 2040mm

Between 2040mm & 2340mm Between 2340mm & 3000mm

3 / 100 x 100mm 3 / 100 x 100mm 4 / 100 x 100mm



42

Hinge Throw This is the amount of off-set the hinge provides when the door is open. Wider butts allow the knuckle to protrude from the door-frame edge, thus allowing the door to be opened to 180°. This type of hinge is referred to as a Broad butt.

Fig. 52 Selecting a hinge with the appropriate throw Architectural Hinges The following hinge types are available for residential and commercial buildings, reproduced courtesy of Lockwood / Efco Hardware: Standard Button-tipped hinge Fast-fix Stainless steel Ball bearing hinge

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OTHER HINGE TYPES Parliament Hinges These hinges have a much greater ‘throw’ than the broad butts, which allow doors to be opened to 180° on external brick veneer or cavity brick wall construction. These hinges are mainly used for ‘French doors’, which are typically found leading onto a balcony from a bedroom or living room. They are made from the same materials as butt hinges and available in similar finishes. Due to the excessive amount of throw, they tend to allow the doors to drop slightly, especially heavy solid or glazed doors.

Fig. 53 Parliament hinge

Double-acting Hinges These hinges are mainly used for doors leading into commercial kitchens, however they may be used on a residential cottage for the same purpose or used with ‘Bat-wing’ doors, providing access to a bar area. This type of hinge provides push access from either side, which allows the door or doors to open in either direction.

Fig. 54 Double-acting hinges Power Transfer Hinges These are special security hinges, which enable wiring to be transferred from the door-jamb to the door leaf. They are used in conjunction with electric locks where security entry doors are required. They are wired with nine (9) separate coloured wires extending 150mm past each side of the hinge for installation. Note: They are not intended to be used as load bearing hinges, but rather as an addition to the ones in place, as they conduct power through the door to the lock only.

Fig. 55 Power transfer hinges

Jamb

Hinge

Door DOUBLE-ACTION HINGE HINGE IN OPERATION



44

LOCKS, LATCHES and BOLTS Simple Latches and Bolts These include the Hasp & Staple, Pad bolt, Patio Door bolt, Barrel bolt and Flush bolt. The Hasp & Staple and Pad bolt are made secure by adding a keyed Pad lock, which holds the hasp or bolt end in a position where it cannot be opened. These simple latches are used for gates, meter boxes, foundation access doors, etc. and are usually accessed from the outside. They are available in a variety of finishes including galvanised, nickel or cadmium plated, polished or satin chrome and polished brass.

Fig. 56 Simple latches with keyed pad lock

Bolts The lockable Patio door bolt is designed to provide security to French doors, sliding timber or aluminium doors, double hung doors or single hung doors. Barrel bolts are designed more for privacy than security as they are of a lighter construction than the patio or flush bolts. Flush bolts are recessed in flush with the internal face of the door/s and provide better security than the barrel bolts. They may be fitted to the top and/or bottom of the single or non-opening side door. Barrel and flush bolts are available in chrome, satin chrome, Florentine bronze and polished brass. The Patio bolts are available in polished brass, primrose, black, brown, silver, doeskin or white finishes.

Fig. 57 Various bolts Patio Door Bolt Barrel Bolt Flush Bolt

Hasp

Staple

Pad bolt

Pad lock

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Mortise Latch This may be used on both internal and external doors as a means of keeping the door in a closed position without actually locking it. The door has a mortise cut into the lock block or solid stile, by drilling a series of relief holes and then cleaning up with a mortise chisel, to take the body of the latch. A small hole is then drilled through both faces of the door to allow a spindle to slide through the body of the latch. Lever type handles are used to turn the spindle and allow the tongue of the latch to fit into the strike plate or keeper, which is let in flush with the jamb rebate surface. This latch type is rarely used now due to the cost of labour to fit them. The cylinder or tubular latch has largely superseded them. Cylinder or Tubular Mortise Latch This is similar to the mortise latch although it requires only one hole, normally 22mm diameter, to be drilled into the lock block or solid stile. It too may have lever type handles fitted, although this type of latch may also be used with a cylindrical lock set and knob-type handles.

Fig. 58 Mortise latch types

KEYED LOCKS Mortise Locks These may be used internally or externally where security is required. They consist of a wide morticed body with a passage latch and a locking dead bolt. The handles are normally the lever-type with a key-hole formed in the face plate under the handles. They provide a passage latch and dead-lock system all in one set.

Fig. 59 Typical mortice lock

MORTISE LATCH

Not keyed

Strike plate CYLINDER MORTISE LATCH

A - Latch B - Dead bolt

MORTISE LOCK WITH KEY AND STRIKE PLATE

CYLINDER MORTISE LOCK

Face plate

Not keyed Striker Plate and keeper



46

Parts of the Mortice Lock � Hub Selection Cam operated adjustment of locking members attached to the snib and accessible through the lock body from the outside to set hubs as required. 2 Latch Bolt Reversible for both left and right hand doors opening in or opening out without having to disassemble the lock Standard deadlatch configuration, except for passage latch function. Separate auxiliary bolt moves into lock case simultaneously with latch bolt. Has electric strike compatibility. 3 Strike Plate or Keeper Universal type stainless steel strike plate suitable for timber or steel jambs. 4 Door Thickness They may be fitted to doors ranging in size from 32 to 50mm thick. 5 Backsets A 60mm backset is standard, however 89 & 127mm backsets are also available. 6 Cylinder/Adaptor Retention Patented ‘Slip Pin’ cylinder/adaptor fixing method, which allows attachment to the case by inserting a non-threaded cylindrical pin through the front of the lock case. 7Multi-function Lock Standard cylinder mortice lock can be converted from escape function to combination function by simple manipulation of hub snibs without lock case disassembly. 8Case Assembly High purity alloy case and backplate. 9Cylinder Assembly Standard oval cylinder assembly.

Fig. 60 Standard type mortice lock (courtesy of Lockwood/Efco Hardware)

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Rim Locks and Night Latches These locks and latches are fitted to the inside of the door with a turning knob to allow exiting and a keyed cylinder assembly to allow access from the outside. There are several styles available from the older rim lock, broad key and escutcheon plate, to the automatic deadlatch.

Fig. 61 Rim lock assembly

Fig. 62 Night latch and Stream latch

Fig. 63 Cylinder rim lock with deadlatch and deadlock mechanism (courtesy of Lockwood/Efco Hardware)

Escutchean plate

Keeper box RIM LOCK

Back plate with screws

Streamlock-Deadbolt Action

Cylinder Asembly

Snib for deadbolting latch Deadlocking Night Latch



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Cylindrical Lock Sets A wide range of these lock sets is available from different manufacturers. They are fitted by drilling a large diameter hole through the door, normally 54mm, with the centre being equal to the nominated backset, which is normally 60mm. The locking mechanism prevents the handle from being turned from the outside, without a key. The key is inserted into the centre of the knob on the outside and the inside is secured with a depressible button or turning button. Turning the door knob from the inside will release the locking mechanism to allow exiting without a key. This type of lock set may be fitted to the centre of the door by fitting a cylinder latch extension to allow operation of the latch.

Fig. 64 Cylindrical entrance lock set

Deadlocks Security is the important feature of these locks. They may be locked from both sides with a key and can only be unlocked using a key. The deadlatch cylindrical type and the deadlatch rim lock type allow locking from the outside with a key but exit from the inside without a key, providing the inside is not locked using a key. Other types, such as the tubular deadbolt, have keyed surface mounted cylinders on both sides with no handles. This type may be used in conjunction with a cylindrical entrance set mounted above or below it.

Fig. 65 Cylindrical deadlatch lock set and strike plate

Fig. 66 Security deadlock

CYLINDRICAL LOCK SET

Deadlatching pin

Latch bolt

Strike plate

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Tubular Deadbolt These are designed for medium and heavy-duty applications in residential and commercial situations. They feature a positive deadlocking action and concealed fixing via a key-operated protector plate. They are also available in a range of finishes to suit other door hardware products.

Fig. 67 Fitted Tubular deadbolt

Fig. 68 Specifications for the tubular deadbolt



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Door Handles As previously stated, most mortice locks are fitted with lever type handles and cylindrical locks are fitted with knob type handles. These handles are usually made from metal with matching finishes, but they may also be combined with timber or porcelain. Lever sets come with a vertical backing plate, which may also have a key or oval cylinder hole to allow for locking. Knob type handles may be plain, be fitted with locking buttons or have keyed cylinders fitted to them for entrance sets. These knob type handles come with attached or separate rose/backing plates. Some common types are shown below:

Fig. 69 Lever and knob type handles (courtesy of Lockwood/Efco Hardware)

LOCK LATCH PRIVACY

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KEYING SYSTEMS The Pin Tumbler Mechanism (courtesy of Lockwood/Efco Hardware) 1. A standard pin tumbler cylinder with the key removed, showing the top pins held in their locking position across the splitline between the barrel and cylinder; 2. The same cylinder with the correct key inserted, showing the pin-breaks aligned with the splitline between the barrel and cylinder, allowing the key to be turned; and 3. The same cylinder with an incorrect key inserted showing the pin-breaks misaligned with the splitline, preventing the key from being turned. Key profiles (courtesy of Lockwood/Efco Hardware) General special keying profiles have 5 and 6 pins available. These profiles range from general purpose single profiles to multi-element reserved profiles; The ‘V7’ Cylinder system has been designed for increased security requirements, beyond 5 and 6 pins. This patented locking system features a ‘V’ configuration and over 100 million combinations and two levels of key control; A 6 pin profile reserved for special keying systems; and Alternative special system for KABA-Gemini and Quattro systems.



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Key Systems Specially keyed systems range from simple keyed-alike groups of locks operated by one key, to the more complex grand master-keyed systems where many groups of locks are operated by one key. The detail below provides a description of how these systems operate:

Fig. 70 Keying systems

There is also a system specially designed for building contractors to gain entry to a building during construction, but to prevent entry by the same contractors after the building has been occupied or handed-over. This is referred to as the Construction Keyed System.

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ENTRY DOOR ACCESSORIES Door Closer

Door closers may be fitted to entry doors to ensure the door is closed after entry and to prevent slamming or, if a hold-open device is fitted, to keep the door in an open position to allow easy entry and exit when carrying bulky goods. The closer is normally mounted internally or the pull side of the door, at the top hinged side of the door. The standard mounting position allows the door to open to 180° and the hold-open range is 80° to 165°.

Fig. 71 Fitting a door closer

Weather Strips

There are many types of strips for doors including rolling door seals, brush strip seals, automatic weather seals, storm-proof seals, weather strip seals, automatic door seals, rain-stop seals and flexible weather stripping. The following installation steps are for a typical automatic weather seal, provided courtesy of Raven Products: STEP 1 With the door closed, measure the front of the door between the door stops of the jamb. Cut the seal to length with a hacksaw, less 3mm on the closing side. STEP 2 Mark a line across the front of the door 45mm up and parallel to the sill or threshold. Position the top edge of the seal on the marked line with one end hard against the hinged side of the door. Lift the flap and secure the strip with four screws at the top of the slots. STEP 3 With the door closed, lightly shut seal, fit the cam to the closing side of the door stop, adjust the cam and tighten off.

Fig. 72 Attaching a weather seal



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Door Knocker These are decorative metal fittings attached to the external face of the door to alert the resident to the presence of a caller. They are available in a variety of finishes as well as polished solid brass. Door bells or electric chimes may be installed as an alternative.

Fig. 73 Door knocker and plate Security Accessories Door Chain Lock These provide security using a hardened steel chain attached to a 5 disc keyed tumbler. They are available in bright chrome and polished brass finishes. Door Chain and Bolt These provide security using a hardened steel chain and bolt mechanism. They are available in bright chrome and polished brass finishes. Security Door Viewer The optical glass lens gives a clear 160° angle of view. The body of the lens is brass, although they are available in bright chrome and polished brass finishes. They may be fitted to doors ranging in size from 32 to 51mm thick.

Fig. 74 Entry door accessories

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DOOR FITTING AND HANGING

PREPARATION

Check the plans and door schedule to identify the door to be hung is the correct one and the opening or hand of the door is confirmed. Check the door for size, twist and bending prior to commencement in case it does not comply or has to be replaced. Make a Wedge Door Block A door block is a temporary timber vice used to hold the door edge in a stable horizontal position while the door is being planed, having hinges fitted or having the lock fitted. Note: This door block may be used again and again, therefore once made it should become part of the tool kit for a Carpenter or Door fixer.

Fig. 75 Prepare scrap timber and cut wedge

Fig. 76 Set out for door thickness and wedge allowance

STEP 1 Select a scrap piece of timber, at least 70 x 35mm section size, approximately 600mm long to provide stability. Set out and cut a wedge on one end. The angle should not be too steep as it should only require a light tap to secure the door in position, say 175mm long x 40mm at one end and 15mm at the other. It should have a blunt end to allow easy removal by tapping with a hammer in the opposite direction to the wedging direction.

STEP 2 Mark the thickness, of the thickest door to be held which is 40mm, in the centre of the block on the top edge. Lay the straight side of the wedge on one edge of the door thickness and mark a line along the tapered edge of the wedge onto the block.

175

15

40

600

70

Mark back of wedge

Door

thickness

C

L



56

Fig. 77 Block checked out ready for door and wedge

Fig. 78 Completed wedge door block An alternative method is to spring-load the door block by using a length of hoop iron strap to connect the two pieces. Pressing down on the door will lock it into the block when being worked on.

Fig. 79 Alternative door block

STEP 3 Now square the outside of the door thickness and the tapered edge of the wedge down the face of the block, on both sides. Gauge a depth of at least the width of the wedge, min. 35mm, from the top edge. Cut square down the face to the desired depth and chisel out the waste.

STEP 4 To protect pre-finished or stained doors it may be wise to glue strips of felt or cardboard to the edges in contact with the doors’ face.

Felt

Wedge

Block

Door

NOTE: Felt fitted to Wedge and block

Felt pads

Block

Hoop iron strip fixed to the bottom of each block

Door supported in block

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HANGING THE DOOR After preparing a door block, checking the door-frame for size and straight, selecting the appropriate door for the opening and checking the plans/door schedule for the correct hand, then the door may be hung following the steps below:

Fig. 80 Initial fitting of the door to the door-frame

STEP 1 Locate the lock side of the solid/panelled door and the external face. Check the door for bow and if there is one present put the door in the jamb so that the bow is away from the jamb in the centre. The door should touch the jamb at the top and bottom so the lock may be used to pull the centre into the rebate. Note: If there is excessive bow or twist the door should be replaced.

STEP 2 Wedge the door in the door-frame so the top and hinge sides are tight against the head and hinge stile. Scribe the top and hinge side of the door to the door-frame using a pencil and scribing spacer, which should be equal to the thickness of the biggest gap. Suitable scribing spacers may be a coin, blade of a rule, butt of a hinge or any other thin parallel material. Remove the door, wedge into door block and plane top and side to the scribed pencil line.

Scribing spacer

Scribe a parallel line on inside of spacer to fit rounds or hollows in the door-frame stile

External door hard against stile and head



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Fig. 81 Scribing lock side and bottom of door

Fig. 82 Mark position of hinges

STEP 3 Replace the door in the opening, wedging the door hard against the hinge side. Also, wedge the door up from the bottom with a spacer between the door and head, to allow for final clearance at the head, (i.e. 2mm for staining and 3mm for a paint finish) Now scribe the lock side using a spacer equal to twice the required width clearance, (i.e. 4mm for staining and 6mm for a paint finish) At the same time scribe the bottom for clearance, (i.e. allow 22mm for carpet)

STEP 4 While the door is set in the correct height position and wedged hard against the hinge side, mark the position for the hinges on the jamb stile and the door at the same time. Measure down from the top 150 or 175mm to the top of the top hinge and up from the bottom 225 or 250mm to the bottom, of the bottom hinge. (which is the old 6 and 9 inches or 7 and 10 inches). Heavy external doors also require a third hinge, which is placed in the centre between the top and bottom hinges.

Pencil line indicating the top of hinge

175

Using a butt hinge as a scribing spacer to provide the correct clearances

Timber block used as a scribing spacer off finished floor to allow for floor coverings and clearance

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Fig. 83 Back-off the closing edge

Fig. 84 Marking out the hinges

Fig. 85 Hinge positioning methods

STEP 5 Remove the door from the frame, wedge it in the door block, plane down to the scribed lines, then back-off the closing edge with a plane. The closing edge only requires a maximum of 2mm in the thickness of the door backed-off to prevent the inside closing edge of the door striking the jamb. Too much backing-off will make the latch face plate protrude on one side.

STEP 6 Square the hinge marks across the rebate and the edge of the door. Use a hinge to set out the position of the butt on the jamb stile first. Align the inside of the knuckle with the outside edge of the jamb and trace around the outside of the butt. Note: The width of the rebate should be equal to the thickness of the door plus 2mm, to prevent the door binding with the rebate edge when closed. Place the other side of the butt hinge on the edge of the door, align the butt with the height mark and set the inside of the knuckle with the outside of the door, then trace around the butt.

The position of the set out will vary depending on the type of hinges being used and whether the door is to open 90° up to approx. 120° or whether the door is to open up to 180° hard against the wall. Note: Use a sharp pencil to trace around the butts to allow for a tight fit, once the hinge position has been chiselled out.

Door backed off at lock stile

Jamb

Door

Pencil marks

Broad butt hinge

Broad butt loose pin hinge

1-2mm clearance

Jamb

Door

BROAD BUTT HINGE FOR 180° OPENING NARROW HINGE FOR UP TO 120° OPENING

Loose pin light narrow butt hinge Jamb

Door

1-2mm clearance



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Butt Gauge

Fig. 86 Butt Gauge

Fig. 87 Setting up and using the Butt Gauge

An alternative method is to use a ‘Butt Gauge’ to set out, mark and transfer hinge distances. The Butt Gauge consists of a steel stock or body with an adjustable marking bar and adjustable cutter to score the position at the edge of the butt hinge and the depth or thickness of the butt on the door and jamb stile. It is particularly useful for setting out for broad butts.

Method

of use

Adjust the set out bar to the width of one hinge leaf, ‘a’, and score a mark on the jamb rebate at the position for the hinges. The set out bar will automatically allow for the width of the butt hinge less the clearance between the inside edge of the door and the rebate, ‘b’. Score a mark on the door edge at the position for the hinges. Set the cutter to the thickness of one hinge leaf and scribe the edge of the door and jamb stile at the position of the hinges, ‘t’. This allows accurate depth position and makes chiselling much easier. Another method is to score the hinge set out marks with a trimming knife blade or the sharp edge of a chisel. The score marks allow for accurate positioning of the chisel blade when checking out the waste.

Block

Set screw

Bar

Set screw Bar

Cutter

Scale

Cutter

Jamb

Door

NOTE: Jamb and door are not gauged at same time

BUTT GAUGE USED TO MARK JAMB & DOOR

MARKING DEPTH OF HINGE ON JAMB

Door

MARKING DEPTH OF HINGE ON DOOR APPLICATION OF A BUTT GAUGE

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Fig. 88 Prepare door and jamb for chiselling

Fig. 89 Prepare screw holes

STEP 7 The waste may be removed using a sharp butt chisel, by partially removing waste with a router or using a router and jig to cut to the lines. When chiselling out the waste, start by marking the outline with a light tap of the chisel, holding the flat side just inside the line so that when the chisel is driven it does not push outside the line. This procedure will ensure a tight fit with no ugly gaps around the butt hinge after fitting. Note: To prevent the narrow side of the checkouts on the door from being broken out during chiselling, clamp a solid block behind the edge of the door. This will absorb the thrust of the chisel and stop the thin edge from shattering.

STEP 8 After the waste has been removed, fit the butt hinge into the recess and mark the centres of the holes. Pre-drill pilot holes to take the screws to prevent splitting of the material. Note: Ensure the correct length and gauge screws are used to suit the hinge and load of door. The screws should be at least 25mm long with the following gauges: • 8 gauge for 75mm wide hinges; and • 10 gauge for 100mm wide hinges.

Butt gauge marks On jamb and door

Pre-drilled screw holes



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Fig. 90 Fitting hinges and heading screws

STEP 9 Once the door has been hung, check the screws to ensure they have been ‘Headed’ for appearance, if slot head screws are used. Also, check the fit of the door within the door-frame and make adjustments as required by recessing the hinge deeper across the width, splaying the inner or outer edge or fitting thin solid packing behind the hinge. If the hinges are tight, squeaky or require lubrication use a dry grease similar to ‘Graphite grease’, which is a powder rather than an oil-based product. Note: Avoid using oil-based products as they will leak from the hinge and attract dirt and dust.

Countersunk wood screws. Door opens more than 180°

Door opens up to 120°

BROAD BUTT HINGE FITTED IN PLACE NARROW BUTT HINGE FITTED IN PLACE

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FITTING LOCKS

CYLINDER LOCK SETS These are the most commonly used door lock systems for entry and passage sets. There are a variety of brands and styles available, but they are generally fitted in the same way. Note: Solid core and timber panelled doors do not require a separate ‘lock block’ fitted, therefore the position of the lock on the stile is normally not restricted unless there is a mid or lock rail to determine the height. The following steps outline the procedure involved:

Fig. 91 Set out for lock set

Fig. 92 Paper template and proportions

STEP 1 A standard height, unless otherwise nominated, would be 1000 to 1200mm off the floor or centre of the mid rail. Once the height is determined, square a light line across the edge and both faces of the door. The centre of the lock on the faces, known as the ‘Backset’, is a standard 60mm from the edge. Backsets of 70, 90 and 127mm are also available but not commonly used. Special extensions or links are available to allow opening from the centre of the door. The tubular latch is located in the centre of the door edge

Alternatively, a paper template may be used. Directions for installation and a paper template are supplied with the lock set. A typical template would be similar to the one shown below:

60 20 Backset

54mm hole 70 mm

60 mm

Door edge

22mm hole

35mm Door 40mm Door



64

Fig. 93 Drill holes and fit latch

Note: When drilling the faces, drill part of the way from both sides to prevent one face being split out. To prevent accidental scoring of the face with the hole saw place a piece of thin cardboard over the area to be drilled and drill through the cardboard. When drilling for the latch, hold the drill perpendicular to the edge of the door to ensure the latch will sit square with the edge after installation and to prevent skew drilling through the face.

Fig. 94 Assemble the lock set

STEP 2 Once the hole centres have been marked on the sides and edge, drill a 54mm diameter hole through from both faces of the door with a hole saw. Now drill a 22mm diameter hole through the edge until it runs into the 54mm hole. Slide the latch into the edge hole, with the tapered side of the tongue facing the jamb rebate, and mark around the outside of the face plate with a sharp pencil. Remove the latch and chisel out the recess, approximately 3 to 4mm deep, to allow the face plate to finish flush with the door edge after installation. Replace the latch, mark and drill pilot screw holes, screw latch into position.

STEP 3 Remove the inside knob, escutcheon and mounting plate. This may be done by depressing a spring-loaded button on the spindle, of most types of locks, and sliding the parts off. Slide the assembly through from the outside, while depressing the latch tongue to allow engagement between the latch and lock cylinder. Locate the mounting plate on the inside, align the screw holes and insert the two security screws. Now slide the escutcheon plate over the spindle and clip it onto the mounting plate. Slide the knob over the spindle until the spring-loaded button secures the parts together. Turn the knobs in both directions to ensure free movement.

Holes bored and latch recessed

Lock and latch assembled

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Fig.95 Fitting the strike plate

STEP 4 The final step is to fit the strike plate or keeper. Close the door against the jamb stile and rest the latch tongue against the outside edge. Mark the centre position of the tongue onto the edge of the jamb and square across to the rebate. Measure the distance from the flat face of the latch tongue to the closing edge of the door. Add 1 to 2mm to allow for clearance, ease of fit and coats of paint to be applied. Mark this distance out from the inside edge of the rebate. Lay the strike plate over the two marks and trace around the outside and inside of the plate. Either bore a 22mm hole in the centre of the strike plate or chisel out a square recess. The depth of both should be at least 2mm deeper than the length of the protruding latch tongue. Chisel out a recess equal to the depth of the strike plate, bore two pilot screw holes and then fix the plate into position. Try the door for ease of closing, which should latch with a minimum of force.

Mark height on jamb Measure distance to tongue

‘X’

Plate set flush with surface Set distance ‘x’ and recess plate

‘X’



66

HANGING A NEW DOOR to an EXISTING OPENING When an existing door is to be replaced with a new door, it will require some fitting to suit the existing door-frame. The replacement door may be ordered as an over-sized door if the opening is bigger than a standard size. A trimming allowance of up to 5mm is allowed on most doors. The new door will need to be aligned with existing hinges and strike plates. The following details provide a step-by-step procedure to fit a new door to an existing opening:

Fig. 96 Measure existing door

Fig. 97 Measure existing door-frame

STEP 1 Before ordering the new door, measure the existing door height, width and thickness, if there is a door present. The door and/or opening may be out of square and/or parallel. Ensure the thickness of the new door will suit the existing rebate depth, i.e. a 40mm thick external door will not suit an internal jamb lining as they are normally designed to suit a 35mm door.

STEP 2 Check the door-frame opening for square by measuring the diagonals. If the door-frame is excessively out of square, an over-sized door should be ordered to allow for cutting/planing to shape and size.

Width top

Width Centre

Width bottom

Hei

ght h

inge

site

Hei

ght l

ock

side

Dia

gona

l

len

gth

‘a’ D

iagonal length ‘b’

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Fig. 98 Transfer hinge and strike plate positions

Fig. 99 Fit hinges and lock

Note: If the hinges are broad butts or the inside of the knuckles on the jamb stile are not flush with the outside of the stile, then the position should be transferred by measurement to the door.

STEP 3 Fit the door to suit the opening, similar to fitting a door to a new opening, and wedge hard against the hinge side with clearance at the top, i.e. 2mm for stain and 3mm for paint finishes. While in this position, transfer the position of the hinges and centre of strike plate onto the face of the door.

STEP 4 Remove the door and wedge into a door block with the hinge side uppermost. Use one of the hinges to set out the recesses for all three hinges by holding one side of the butt hinge on the door edge with the inside of the knuckle flush with the outside of the door. Check out recesses and fix the hinges to the door. Roll the door over, then measure the horizontal distance from the jamb rebate to the front of the strike plate. Measure in this distance from the inside closing edge of the door, deduct 2mm to allow for clearance and layers of paint, then deduct half the latch tongue thickness, place a centre mark. Set out faces, drill holes and install the lock set. Pack the door in the opening, screw the hinges to the jamb and try the door for correct closing and lock operation.

Strike plate position

Hinge positions

Trace around hinge butt

Centre line set out for lock set

Rebate to latch tongue face measurement

Deduct clearance

½ latch tongue Inside face

Wedge



68

PRE-HANGING A DOOR (to a new door-frame) An alternative method of door hanging is to fit and hang the door in the door-frame prior to the installation of the door-frame. This allows the door to act as a squaring device. Method • Prepare the members; • Cut the head and stiles to length; • Trench the head to take the stiles; • Before assembly, set out, recess hinges

and drill pilot screw holes; • Assemble the door-frame (no spreader or

brace at this stage) and place on a flat surface or saw stools, lay the door in the rebates tight against the hinge side and 2 to 3mm down from the top rebate;

• Transfer the hinge positions from the jamb to the door;

• Set out, recess, drill pilot screw holes and fix the hinges to the door. The door lock may also be fitted at this stage;

• Hang the door in the door-frame, fit a temporary spreader across the bottom of the stiles allowing for even clearance, to make the door-frame parallel;

• Adjust the door-frame for square with the door and fit a temporary diagonal head brace;

• Drive thin wedges between the bottom spreader and door, and between the door edge and rebate to hold the unit tight until installed.

Fig. 100 Pre-hung door and door-frame unit The door-frame and door are now ready to be installed. Only one side of the door-frame requires checking for plumb as the remainder of the unit will now automatically be correct. Pack stiles, check for wind and fix off frame. Once fixed in place, remove the spreader and brace, then fit the strike plate to suit the lock position.

Temporary diagonal brace

Horizontal spreader

Temporary wedges

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