Canadian Jeweller Magazine - November 2011

NOUVELLE

SECTION!

page 56

SCAN ME TO GOTO OUR WEBSITE

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NOVEMBER 2011

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PLUS: GOLD RUSH PART 2ALL THE LATEST NEWS, TRENDS & EVENTS

CUSTOM JEWELLERYFind your niche, build your brand

BetterTogetherTogether

Beth Saunders, Canadian Jewellery Group

LE COIN FRANÇAISExpo Prestige, perles et plus encore

001.CJ_Cover 04.indd 1 10/26/11 2:01:02 PM

24 Gold Group Ltd.Gold Dealer & Refining Company

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And behind every great jeweller, there’s Stuller.

From melee to center stones, Stuller provides the broadest choice

in diamonds, all expertly cut and perfectly matched. With our proven

track record of accurate grading standards, dependable delivery,

and competitive pricing, Stuller is the only diamond supplier you’ll

ever need to be a hero for your customers. And as a DTC sightholder,

our vast selection of top-quality diamonds is always close at hand and

conflict-free. For a wealth of ideas, call our Toronto sales center at

866-815-5511, or visit us at stuller.com. That’s the beauty of it all.

The DTC logo is a trademark used under license from DTC.

Behind every “It’s perfect,” there’s a great jeweller.

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From melee to center stones, Stuller provides the broadest choice

in diamonds, all expertly cut and perfectly matched. With our proven

track record of accurate grading standards, dependable delivery,

and competitive pricing, Stuller is the only diamond supplier you’ll

ever need to be a hero for your customers. And as a DTC sightholder,

our vast selection of top-quality diamonds is always close at hand and

conflict-free. For a wealth of ideas, call our Toronto sales center at

866-815-5511, or visit us at stuller.com. That’s the beauty of it all.


Behind every “It’s perfect,” there’s a great jeweller.

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CJ_ad.indd 3 10/20/11 10:31:50 AM

Jewellery, the experience of personal transformation and identity

For More Information Contact:

Olivier Felicio1.888.358.8186 ext. 6107

Lucy Holden1.888.358.8186 ext. 6117

[email protected]

6 CJ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 1 | w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m

EstablishEd 1879 NOVEMBER 2011 • vol. 132, no. 7

Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | [email protected] lucy holden Associate Publisher | [email protected]

Erin Poredos Sales Assistant | [email protected]

Carlos Weigle Editor | [email protected] Jessica Uniac Editorial Assistant | [email protected]

irina lytchak, lorina Owen Editoral Interns | [email protected]

scott Jordan Art Director | [email protected] sarah Vincett Graphic Designer

James shotton Production Coordinator | [email protected]

Melanie seth Controller & Operations | [email protected] leslie Witol Finance Administrator | [email protected]

Matthew Pompey Multimedia Specialist | [email protected] Miller Customer Service | [email protected]

CONtRibUtORs

salEslucy holden

Jeff Yamaguchi

CiRCUlatiONGarth atkinson

head Office

Montreal Office

AssociAte publisher

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117

email [email protected]

ADVertisiNG sAles

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122


publicAtioN pArtNers

345 Kingston road, suite 101

pickering, ontario, l1V 1A1

toll free 1-877-547-2246


60 bloor street West, suite 1106

toronto, ontario, M4W 3b8

tel. (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392

555 chabanel street West, suite 1507

Montreal, Quebec, h2N 2J2

tel. (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223

toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117

subscription Ratescanada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. united states — one year, us$205. Foreign — one year us$205 (subscriptions include buyers’ Guide is-

sues.) 8% p.s.t. for Newfoundland, New brunswick and Nova scotia residents. single copies — $25; buyers’ Guide $40. bulk rates — six or more subscriptions, $17.50

per subscription per year (canada only).

Change of addressemail: [email protected] telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735

or send your cover label and new address to canadian Jeweller c/o publication partners, 345 Kingston road, suite 101, pickering, oN canada l1V 1A1

Published by Rive Gauche Media ii inc.

canada post canadian publications Mail sales product Agreement No. 40678000. the publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. the publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by canadian Jeweller and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.

claudine baltazar, terri Dacquisto, rob hopkins, John lamont, Duncan parker, lise petitpas, carmen rivet, bonnie siegler, e.Z. Guler-tuck

CMCAAUDITED

8 CJ J a n u a r y / F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 1 w w w. c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r. c o m

Check our Website forMonthly Specials!

Phone

Email: [email protected]

1.800.663.6472Fax 1.800.316.2999

www.karatimports.com

EstablishEd 1879 January/february 2011 • vol. 132, no. 1

Olivier Felicio Editor-in-Chief | [email protected] lucy holden Associate Publisher | [email protected]

Carol besler Consulting Editor Paul aguirre Associate Editor | [email protected]

scott Jordan Art Director | [email protected] Elena Viltovskaia Designer | [email protected]

stacy Karjala Designer | [email protected] Elizabeth Valiaho Production Coordinator | [email protected]

Melanie seth Controller & Operations | [email protected] sunjoyo tanto Web Programmer | [email protected]

Erin Poredos Sales Assistant | [email protected]

CONtRibUtORs

salEslucy holden

Jeff Yamaguchi

Karolann Cassman

CiRCUlatiONGarth atkinson

head Office

Montreal Office

AssociAte publisher

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6117


ADVertisiNG sAles

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6122


ADVertisiNG sAles

tel. (416) 203-7900 ext. 6126


publicAtioN pArtNers

345 Kingston road, suite 101

pickering, ontario, l1V 1A1

toll free 1-877-547-2246


60 bloor street West, suite 1106

toronto, ontario, M4W 3b8

tel. (416) 203-7900 fax (416) 703-6392

555 chabanel street West, suite 1507

Montreal, Quebec, h2N 2J2

tel. (514) 381-5196 fax (514) 381-6223

toll free 1-888-358-8186 ext. 6117

subscription Ratescanada — one year, $185; two years, $175; three years $160. united states — one year, us$205. Foreign — one year us$205 (subscriptions include buyers’ Guide is-

sues.) 8% p.s.t. for Newfoundland, New brunswick and Nova scotia residents. single copies — $25; buyers’ Guide $40. bulk rates — six or more subscriptions, $17.50

per subscription per year (canada only).

Change of addressemail: [email protected] telephone: 1-877-547-2246 fax: 905-509-0735

or send your cover label and new address to canadian Jeweller c/o publication partners, 345 Kingston road, suite 101, pickering, oN canada l1V 1A1

Published by Rive Gauche Media ii inc.

canada post canadian publications Mail sales product Agreement No. 40678000. the publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. the publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial consideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or hard copy format) may be used by canadian Jeweller and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet, disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. please direct submissions to the editor, canadian. return undeliverable items to rive Gauche Media, 60 bloor street West, ste. 1106, toronto, oN canada M4W 3b8.

Official magazine of JVC

For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 80

chris Davey, lorraine Depasque, Martin irving, John lamont, charles lewton-brian, Donna Jean MacKinnon, Duncan parker, lihn pham, Dean sanderson, bonnie siegler.

008.CJ_Masthead.indd 8 12/16/10 11:28:53 AMXXX.CJ_Masthead.indd 6 10/21/11 9:33:11 AM



From the fashionably modern to the quietly classic, Stuller is the bridal

authority with the most up-to-date styles and solutions in the industry.

We offer a vast selection of bridal jewellery and components as well

as unique selling tools for customization. For a wealth of ideas,

call our Toronto sales center at 866-815-5511, or visit us at stuller.com.

That’s the beauty of it all.

Behind every “Yes,” there’s a great jeweller.

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[FEATURES]30. gold rush pt.2

Alexis Minerals has high hopes for its Snow Lake, Manitoba Mine.

34. in praise of appraising Determining the value of jewellery is an involved and multi-layered process.

42. Better together Beth Saunders believes the Canadian Jewellery Group can make a difference.

48. “Custom” Built to last Technology takes the venerable art of custom-made jewellery to a whole new level.

70. design revolution CAD and CAM software are helping jewellers be more competitive and more imaginative at the same time.

NOVEMBER 2011

42

58

48

SPÉCIAL : CJ en français56. lettre de l’editeur/ContriButeurs

58. reCyClage intelligent et CrÉatif

60. 60 ans de prestige

62. teCh emotion : une perle rare

XXX-XXX.CJ_Contents.indd 8 10/25/11 1:51:55 PM


CJ_ad.indd 1 10/20/11 10:39:41 AM


[DEPARTMENTS] NOVEMBER 2011

12. Letter from the editor

14. Product showcase

22. who’s news

24. for the record

64. costLy justice Police investigations advance yet the price tag of trails remains extremely high.

66. knowLedge is goLden Moniruz Zaman applied his international experience and turned The Bullion Mart into a thriving company.

7464

74. Beauty is in the detaiLs ELLE Jewelry’s sole designer, Claire Vessot, believes in finding something special in the smallest aspects of everyday life.

78. showcase/marketPLace

88. fax Back

90. Last word

24

www.facebook.com/CJMag

TM

www.twitter.com/CJMag

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Ours is truly a vast and generous country. So vast sometimes we lose sight of all the talent and initiative that can be found beyond the boundaries of our own provinces, sometimes even our own cities. Although it’s human nature to focus on the events and people that are closer to us, that quality also o� en prevents us from being inspired by everything our country has to o� er.

We must all look beyond our borders – there might be a new business opportunity just a few hours or a phone call away. By expanding our horizons we could discover a fantastic designer or a great idea that could help save us from � nancial hardship.

Here at Canadian Jeweller we believe in doing our share and being a strong voice for our industry, nation-wide. � at’s why, for instance, we’re including several pages (in French) re� ecting the vitality of our industry in Quebec (page 56).

It’s the same reason that prompted us to feature the Canadian Jewellery Group – a truly national retailer

organization on our cover (story on page 42). Or why we focused on Manitoba, where a company is revitalizing gold mining (page 30).

� at appetite for everything Canadian also gets us excited every year, as we support the Excellence in Design Award, a competition that promotes talent across the country (by the way, keep your eyes peeled for the 2011 winners in our next issue).

� ank you, Canada!

Carlos WeigleEditor

A land of wonders

Canada’s fi rst premiumFashion Jewellery magazine

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Yes, I would like to secure my50 copies at no charge formy store at the address below:

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12 CJ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 1 | W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

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4


100%Steve Reale, Director of Sales and Marketing

Miri Shilon, Director of Product Development; Gila Shilon, Director of Inventory Management

BREAKING NEWS

JSN is taking its passion for our diamonds to the next level by opening the � rst entirely Canadian diamond-cutting facility in Toronto • BY CARLOS WEIGLE

SCAN ME TO GOTO THE VIDEO

W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M | N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 1 CJ

XX-XX.CJ_JSN.indd 64 10/31/11 1:55:22 PM

CJ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 1 | W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

BREAKING N

EWS

Canadian diamonds are becoming a phenomenon around the world. From Europe to Asia to the U.S., they are not only associated with great quality, they are perceived as an ethical product consumers

can feel good about.

JSN has been an exceptional advocate for our gemstones, having a tremendously positive response to their Canadian Ice diamond collection. “We’ve had huge international success with our Canadian brands over the past few years,” says Steve Reale, the company’s director of sales and marketing. “Our world market is strengthening. Before, people thought of Canadian diamonds just as a novelty; now they’ve turned out to be a very viable source, as an ethical product and also in terms of customer appeal. Right now our brands are exploding around the world: we’re in Vietnam, Italy, Central Europe, we’re huge in the U.K. and the U.S. and, of course, in our domestic market here in Canada.”

� at success story certainly gives JSN the con� dence to go one step further, and to announce the production of 100 per cent Canadian diamonds, mined, cut and polished in our country. � e company is taking that step because there was customer demand for that type of diamond yet also because they are passionate about our country and everything it represents. As Reale puts it, “we truly believe that the Canadian origin is where the appeal truly lies. Our philosophy has been ‘bring that ethical diamond to the world’ and they will respond. � e retailers are responding and so are the consumers. � is venture is for our domestic retailers that require a ‘product of’ or ‘made in Canada’ diamond, which was the only element missing from our arsenal, in terms of Canadian diamonds. We now cover ‘origin,’ ‘made’ and ‘product of Canada,’ to provide our domestic customers with their every need. We are in full control of our destiny, from rough diamond to � nished jewellery. Adding the Canadian facility makes it a ‘one-stop shopping experience’ for our domestic customers.”

Other companies have tried to achieve that and eventually failed. JSN has some clear advantages over them. As Joseph Shilon, its president, points out: “With all the experience, knowledge and customer base that we have, we’re sure we can do it successfully. For some it’s not a viable venture because they’d have to cut the diamonds � rst and then � nd the customers. We already have the customers and we know what they want.”

� e new cutting facility will not only be located in our country, it will also employ Canadians exclusively. “A true 100 per cent product of Canada must start with Canadian workers. � ere is no sense of ‘Canadiana’ if you have foreign nationals cutting on Canadian soil. � at’s why we will only employ Canadian citizens,” says Reale.

JSN will take advantage of their state-of-the-art facilities in � ailand and bring their expertise home. “We have the most sophisticated, advanced factory in � ailand,” says Shilon. “We have the best machinery and technology, some of which we developed ourselves. � e easiest thing would

be to bring the people to Canada and train them here. However, to provide them with the best experience and knowledge, I’ve decided to take this new generation of cutters, the one we’ll be training, to the big factory in � ailand, where they’d have everything at their disposal.”

JSN’s initiative aims to train Canadians so they can become masters and, in turn, pass that expertise on to future generations.

Shilon emphasizes he’s proud to be Canadian and, like many others who arrived here from other countries, wants to give back to Canada and share what it has to o� er with the rest of the world. In fact, JSN has been doing that for years. “We are very strong in the world market,” says Reale. “We are probably one of the world leaders in terms of Canadian diamonds. We had an incredible last few years with our brand; we run approximately 16 private labels around the world, plus our direct Canadian Ice brand and Passionate Heart.” � e e� ect Canadian diamonds have beyond our borders is palpable at events such as the one recently organized by Goldsmiths in London.

In the beginning, the Toronto facility will handle larger stones, half a carat and up. Yet, as Shilon highlights, “in the near future we hope to introduce much smaller diamonds.” � at will be possible thanks to brand new technology JSN is developing along with their partners in � ailand and Israel. � e early stages of testing and production are scheduled for late January and actual production is expected by the end of 2012’s � rst quarter.

“We’re going to start with 10 people and the best robot machinery in the world,” states Reale. “� e idea is to produce approximately 3,000 ct at � rst and take it to 7,500 and up to 10,000 within the next few years.”

A project such as this one doesn’t happen overnight. As a matter of fact, it took eight months for JSN to get to this point. Extensive planning and careful thought went into each step of the process. � e excitement is now evident: it’s time to start working on our stones, right here at home, and produce some of the best diamonds in the world. [CJ]

Text the KEYWORD “JSN” to “54500” to access our exclusive video interview from this special annoucement.

Canada’s Ambassador to � ailand, Ron Ho� mann, at a JSN event.

XX-XX.CJ_JSN.indd 65 10/31/11 1:55:54 PM

215 Victoria St. Suite B-3, Toronto, Ontario M5B 1T9Phone: 416.366.4046 Toll free: 1.877-365.5552 Fax: 416.366.5162 [email protected]

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RM-AD_October 2011_Layout 1 11-10-05 6:08 PM Page 1

For details, write #110 on Free Info Page, page 88.

Readymount CJ_ad.indd 1 10/20/11 10:59:41 AM


productprofile

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CJ A U G U S T 2 0 1 1 | w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m

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1. GWT Corp

GWT Corp latest innovation mesmerized the Hollywood celebrities at the

2010 Toronto International Film Festival. GWT SP 19K Bellona is part of

GWT exclusive ultra fine collection called “GWT 19K Special Projects”. For

details, write 158 on the Free Info Card on page 96.

3. proTeCT Yourself

Order Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company’s Security Guide for Retail

Jewellery Businesses today! This guide will help you reduce your risk of

theft. Exclusively endorsed by the Canadian Jewellers Association, Jewelers

Mutual is the only company specializing exclusively in jewellery insurance

in the U.S. and Canada. Visit JewelersMutual.ca or call 800-558-6411. For

details, write 160 on the Free Info Card on page 96.

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4. ImaGe fIfTh avenue

Classic ladies’ bracelets with a modern look in 18k white and yellow gold,

can be worn for any occasion. Not only do they look good, but they also

feel good on the wrist. For more information write 161 on page 96.

2. Bulova flIes hIGh

The limited-edition Bulova Accutron Conqueror, inspired by the famous

Lone Eagle timepiece that Bulova awarded to Colonel Charles A. Lindbergh

in 1927, when he became the first person to complete a solo non-stop flight

across the Atlantic. Individually numbered. Model 63B152. Suggested retail,

$4,900. For details, write 159 on the Free Info Card on page 96.

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5. Gold, 24/7

For the most accurate gold pricing, turn to 24 Gold Group Ltd. Specializing

in real-time gold pricing, clients are given the most precise, right up to the

second, pricing possible. Visit 24gold.ca twenty-four hours a day, seven

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1. protect yourself

Order Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company’s Security Guide for Retail Jewellery

Businesses today! This guide will help you reduce your risk of theft. Exclusively

endorsed by the Canadian Jewellers Association, Jewelers Mutual is the only

company specializing exclusively in jewellery insurance in the U.S. and Canada.


2. a.b.art swiss made watches

10:10 Watches is now offering in Canada a.b.art Swiss made watches, win-

ner of the prestigious 2009 Red Dot Design award, a.b.art is a watch brand

for women and men who prefer unostentatious designs, sophisticated beauty,

low-key shapes and materials as well as high Swiss quality. For more informa-

tion, write 153 on the Free Info Card on page 88.

3. prestige

We have built our pieces as a way to pay tribute to our diverse Canadian

landscape. Our rings exhibit the overall theme of embracing nature which

is evident in the lines of our pieces. For more information, write 154 on the

Free Info Card on page 88.

4. Nova diamoNd

Don’t miss your chance to pick up a pair of Nova Diamond’s new drop ear-

rings. If you’re the type to think bigger is better, then we have the perfect thing

for you. Set in 18K white gold, these cluster earrings feature a mix of large

assorted round, oval and pear shaped stones. This style is available in two

variations, teardrop and round. For more information, write 155 on the Free


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who’snews


PEOPLE MAKING HEADLINES IN THE JEWELLERY INDUSTRY

New gem at Stuller Stuller Inc. is pleased to announce Barbara Ryan as the new VP of Jewellery. Ryan began her role with the company on October 17. Ryan has been in the jewellery business for 20 years, displaying her knowledge and leadership etiquette in a variety of roles including former divisional VP at Helzberg Diamonds. As acting Jewellery VP for Stuller, Barbara will be responsible for discovering new trends while meeting customer expectations by foreseeing the execution of eye-catching and captivating new collections.

Diamond empowerment fund welcomes new members � e Diamond Empowerment Fund, a � rm focused on supporting education practices in Africa, has welcomed Nancy Orem Lyman and Phyllis Bergman as their new board members. As the new executive director, Lyman previously served as the director of consumer con� dence for the De Beers Group and as the education outreach director of the World Diamond Council. Bergman comes on as the board’s new president while also serving as the CEO Mercury Ring and chairman of the 24 Karat Club of New

York City. � e Diamond Empowerment Fund has a long history of raising money to instill proper education protocols in various diamond-producing countries in Africa.

JA elects new chair and board directors Georgie Gleim, President of Gleim � e Jeweler in Palo Alto, CA, has been elected as the new Board Chair by the Jewelers of America. � e JA Board, a national trade association for businesses serving � ne jewellery retailers, held a meeting in July during which they also elected William Farmer Jr. of Farmer’s Jewelry as Chair-Elect, and Ryan Berg, Scot Congress and Peter Engel as the new Vice Chairmen. Gleim succeeded Terry Burman, who was a former Signet Jewelers Limited CEO and Sterling Jewelers Inc. Chairman, as the new Chair.

Tennis champ Djokovic joins Piguet Audemars Piguet has appointed tennis star Novak Djokovic as the luxury watchmaker’s newest ambassador during the U.S. Open fourth Grand Slam competition of 2011. Previous brand ambassadors for Piguet have included Michael Schumacher, Leo Messi, LeBron James and Sachin Tendulkar, among others. Djokovic has recently claimed the top spot in men’s tennis by winning his third Grand Slam title at Wimbledon this past July. He’s had a very successful year so far with nine wins, including the Australian Open and � ve Masters 1000. Piguet CEO Philippe Merk stated that the brand is honoured to welcome Djokovic, “a great champion,” as their new ambassador.

DFHK announces new lineup� e Diamond Federation of Hong Kong, a non-pro� t organization maintaining ethical business practices in the diamond market, has announced the new members of its executive committee, chosen for the next two years. Sik Wah Leung was welcomed as the honorary life

president, while Y. Y. Lawrence Ma was named the new president and W. S. Winston Chow as the new chairman. � e three new Vice-Chairmen for the retail, import and wholesaling, and manufacturing divisions, are W. Y. Victor Yiu, L. H. River Si and C. K. Nelson Ho. � e DFHK has recently announced that Hong Kong has imported an estimated 14.5 million carats in polished diamonds for the � rst half of 2011, an increase from 13.6 million carats for the corresponding period of 2010.

Tim Bourne new head of watches for Sotheby’s AsiaSotheby’s Asia has appointed Tim Bourne as the new worldwide head of the watches department, which will entail him to supervise all of the Sotheby’s watch auctions in Asia, Geneva, New York and London, while working out of Hong Kong. Bourne comes from over 20 years of experience in the auction house business, being responsible for establishing Sotheby’s � rst stand-alone watch auction in Asia in 1997. He was previously in charge of the Sotheby’s Asia watch division from 1997 to 2002 and since then has had an active part in the � rm’s consignment, business development, marketing and administration sectors. [CJ]

York City. � e Diamond Empowerment Fund has a long history of raising money to instill proper education protocols in various diamond-producing countries in Africa.

JA elects new chair and board directors

national trade association for businesses serving � ne jewellery retailers, held a meeting in July

Jr. of Farmer’s Jewelry as Chair-Elect, and Ryan

Vice Chairmen. Gleim succeeded Terry Burman, who was a former Signet Jewelers Limited CEO Barbara Ryan

Tim Bourne

XXX-XXX.CJ_WhosNews.indd 22 10/20/11 12:22:47 PM

27 Queen Street East. Suite 1402 Toronto, ON M5C 2M6

Tel: (647) 345-5401 | Fax: (647) 345-5362

E-Mail: [email protected]

CJ_Fantastic.indd 1 10/26/11 4:24:28 PM


fortherecord

news | trends | events

Branson for BulovaLast month Bulova Accutron celebrated the launch of the new Bulova Accutron watch that Sir Richard Branson (brand ambassador) co-designed. Only 500 of the Bulova Accutron Sir Richard Branson Limited Edition Watch will be available globally with hopes to bring 40 to 50 of the timeless pieces to Canada. Stephen Taylor, President of Bulova Canada, who played a large part in the decision to appoint Sir Richard Branson as company ambassador, says that New York was strictly about the brand and the face behind it. It provided a chance for high-end customers to meet the brand ambassador and truly understand why he was chosen to represent the company when he is normally opposed to brand endorsement. “A substantial person from a number of aspects. He’s got this boundless appetite for exploration and adventure, which is a great fit for the brand.”Sir Richard Branson chose to endorse Bulova because of a shared belief to reach the global consumer by providing high-quality material at an entry-level Swiss price. The Bulova Accutron line consists of eight collections including a recent limited edition piece, the “Conquerer,” a replica of the watch awarded to Charles Lindberg upon crossing of the Atlantic. According to Taylor, the Canadian objective of the company is to have “100 high-end points of distribution, limiting the brand to those locations.” The stylish Bulova Accutron Sir Richard Branson Limited Edition Watch features a black dial representing the globe with dual time zones in correspondence to 24 global destinations. A key component as Sir Branson himself often awakens in a different time zone from where he fell asleep. The watch is set to hit the market in fall 2012 with an estimated retail price of $3,995.

Fresh, new design for Stuller.comStuller, Inc. has announced the launch of its redesigned ecommerce website, Stuller.com. The latest design features more colour and photography, an improved search field that allows jewellers to find what they need quicker, a “shop-by-department” tool that can browse through various categories, and a new feature that enables consumers to find their local jewellers. “Our goal is to help customers find what they’re looking for in fewer clicks, making Stuller.com their first choice for ordering product for their stores,” says Chief Technology Officer, Carol Skarlat. Stuller.com generates around 30 per cent of the retailer’s total sales traffic and boasts over 200,000 jewellery and jewellery-related items.

Rapaport Corp. report reveals polished diamond prices dip 8.6 per cent The Rapaport Corp. has announced that the average prices for polished diamonds have decreased in the third quarter of 2011. The first half of the year had sales remaining at a steady pace. Third Quarter Jitters, a research report conducted by the Rapaport Corp., reveals that trading of polished diamonds is limited while demand is trying to be reached. Although overseas sales have dipped as a result of the European debt crisis and global recovery, China will drive the market with the country’s strong demand for diamonds. Chairman of the Rapaport Corp., Martin Rapaport says, “Diamonds are part of the real world and diamond prices go up and down.” The report shows prices for diamonds have decreased as follows; 1 ct diamonds fell 8.6 per cent, 0.5 ct dropped 7.5 per cent and 3 ct diamonds fell 5.8 per cent. According to Tehmasp Printer, managing director of IGI India, there is uncertainty for the diamond market as the holidays approach. However, he points out that, “those who have set aside a budget for diamond purchases would certainly buy diamonds. So, more or less, the demand would be there.” Sir Richard Branson; Bulova’s Jay Cameron; Bijouterie Italienne’s Marco Miserendino

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Gucci and FIAT unveiled new car modelLuxury brands Gucci and FIAT joined forces to debut the Fiat “500 by Gucci” limited edition auto at this year’s fall New York Fashion Week. The stylish Fiat 500 and 500 Cabrio were exclusively customized by Gucci creative director, Frida Giannini, and Fiat’s Centro Stile and were unveiled on September 8 at the Fashion’s Night Out event. The models, inspired by neo-classic black and white film, appeared in a black or white shade, bearing the signature Gucci label stripe. This collaboration also marked Gucci’s 90th anniversary and the 150th anniversary of the unification of Italy.

Canadian Jeweller at Bridge conferenceRecently, Canadian Jeweller publisher Olivier Felicio travelled to South Louisiana along with more than 60 independent North American retail jewellers. Felicio delivered the keynote address to those jewellers assembled for Stuller’s Bridge conference hosted by the manufacturer at its global headquarters. Supporting the conference theme of using new methods to “be tomorrow’s jeweller,” Felicio presented his ideas on the changing consumer and the current luxury retail landscape. He justified the jeweller’s desire to interact more personally with customers through social networking tools. He also discussed the need consumers have to rely on jewellers for information and guidance in making their

significant, sentimental purchases. Felicio’s appearance last month was part of the inaugural series of Bridge conferences, and Stuller will soon announce conference dates for 2012. Bridge is open to Stuller customers at no cost. Stuller pledges that attendees will learn methods for being better connected to consumers through technology, improving in-store sales with virtual inventory and generally reducing overhead while becoming more relevant in the marketplace. For more information regarding the Bridge conferences, visit CanadianJeweller.com.

Zale reports net losses Zale Corp., a North American specialty jewellery retailer, has reported a nine per cent sales increase for the fourth quarter of 2011, which ended July 31, compared to the same period in 2010. The company’s total revenues grew to reach $377 million yet the net loss also increased from last year’s $29 million to $32.6 million for 2011. During the last quarter, Zale closed 10 fine jewellery stores and seven kiosks yet this was their third consecutive quarter of rising sales numbers. Zale’s high net losses are largely credited to new price increases across their brands, implemented to accommodate the changing goods and services industry. In order to better serve its U.S. consumers, the firm plans to initiate a program that will provide alternative payment options.

Signet high sales promise new storesSignet Jewelers Ltd., the world’s largest specialty jewellery retailer, has announced that the firm’s recent high sales numbers will likely result in 23 new store openings throughout the U.S. Signet sales for the first quarter of this year have risen by 11 per cent in the U.S. alone to reach an estimated $643 million and $797.6 million worldwide. The company has revealed plans to pay quarterly cash dividends of ten cents on its common shares starting in November 2011. Signet also plans to boost sales by improving its U.S. websites and merging into the world of social media networking.

Kate Moss launches first jewellery lineBritish supermodel Kate Moss launches her first jewellery line in collaboration with LVMH luxury jeweller Fred. The new line consists of 22 glittery pieces, including bracelets, necklaces, earrings and pendants, representing variations of her own tattoos. Prices range from £300 ($470) to £30,000 ($47,000). The most expensive piece is a bright ruby necklace. The 37-year-old model has designed clothing, handbag and makeup lines in the past. The line is now readily available at Fred stores in France, Tokyo and online.

Fiat “500 by Gucci”

Kate Moss at launch party in Paris.


27 w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m | N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 1 CJ

fortherecord

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MCD Pearls Ad layout 1/20/11 6:09 PM Page 1

Unique diamond sold for $6.5 million A spectacular Christie 32.77 ct yellow diamond auctioned off for $6.5 million at the Magnificent Jewel sale in New York on October 18. The diamond exceeded its original estimated auction price by $500,000. The large, pear-shaped Vivid Yellow is deemed one of the rarest gemstones in its class by the Gemological Institute of America, chiefly due to its intense yellow colouration. However, the diamond did not surpass its prior expectancy of exceeding the per-carat price of $203,000 that was achieved by the Golden Drop, an 18.49 ct yellow diamond sold by Christie’s London in 1990. The Vivid Yellow diamond sold for $201,000 per-carat, which constitutes, according to Rahul Kadaki, head of jewellery for Christie’s Americas, “a sensational price.” The Vivid Yellow made several tour stops in London, Geneva, Hong Kong and finally New York, where it was auctioned. Kadaki called the stone “an extremely rare geological phenomenon.”

Hong Kong show generated AWE The September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair has been a staple in the global jewellery trades events calendar. It gathers 3,300 exhibitors from 45 countries and regions, as well as 44,000 buyers from 135 countries and regions. Fifty per cent of the buyers who attended the event were from overseas, contributing to the exhibit’s status as “The World’s Number One Fine Jewellery Event.” It is the largest fair ever in terms of exhibition space, in any industry, in Hong Kong. The fair in September occupied two top-notch venues, which expanded from eight to nine halls in Asia World-Expo, which took place from September 19 -23. The total exhibition space covered 60,000 square metres; this, paired with the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre (September 21- 25), totalled 130,000 square metres of exhibition space. The event featured jewellery ranging from silver and gold to some of the world’s finest loose diamonds. In 2012, the fair will celebrate 30 years as a world-class jewellery event.

Sears Canada CEO plans company overhaul Calvin McDonald, the newly appointed Sears Canada CEO, has issued an internal memorandum to employees stating that the company will have to undergo an image overhaul in order to address its recent “identity crisis.” McDonald wrote that the company will have to embark of tackling stores cluttered with merchandise and ineffective marketing promotions as well as declining financial reports and increased pressures from rival stores like the Bay and Target Corp. “In a time-starved culture, our customers shouldn’t have to hunt for what they need,” wrote McDonald. “Our stores are too difficult to shop. In many cases, we don’t offer the right products in the right market.” Industry insiders say that the CEO has begun developing a three-year plan that will aim at reorganizing catalogue operations, renewing store presentations and investing in more customer research in order to spotlight their shoppers’ main needs.

Kate Moss at launch party in Paris.


CJ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 1 | w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m

fortherecord

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The stars align for HamiltonTo show their committed enthusiasm for the film industry, Hamilton Watch Co. approached several Toronto Film School students about making a short film based on the concept of “Running Out of Time.” Hamilton supplied the students with specific watch models and $1,000 towards the development of the films. The three finalists chosen were Anagha Kulkarni, Robert Young and Suam Khashaei, who ended up taking home the grand prize. Khashaei’s win included a trip to L.A. for the premier of the upcoming Hollywood film Abduction, which features Taylor Lautner’s character sporting one of Hamilton’s iconic watches. Khashaei’s winning short film was also screened at the Toronto premier of Abduction on September 22. Hamilton also made headlines at the 21st Montreal fashion week in September, as the official sponsor of Dress to Kill magazine’s launch of their 2011 fall issue. The magazine partnered with Montreal’s jewellery retailer Bijouterie Italienne for the special cinema edition featuring actors who are on the rise in Quebec’s film industry. Hamilton Watch Co. is also the Official Timekeeper and sponsor of the Webster Memorial Trophy Competition, celebrating top-of-the-class amateur Canadian pilots. Hamilton presented exclusive watches to the competition winners at the 2011 annual event in St. Hubert, Quebec.

Gold prices take a big diveSince the largest three-day dip gold prices experienced in decades on Sept. 26, the value has risen above the $1,600 an ounce mark reaching $1,651 on Oct. 18. Market analysts said the sudden and steep decline was price reflective of the belief that gold had been over-bought. The slow recovery of gold prices continues to display a negative sign for the metal’s value. Economist Dennis Gartman says, “very real damage has been done to the gold market.” Since 2010 the overall price of gold has increased by 29 per cent, maintaining a 10 per cent increase since Jan 1. The price of silver has also shown promise moving above the $30 per ounce mark, closing at $31.80 on October 18. A steady increase from the September low of $29.80 per ounce which had analysts eliminating any gains the metal had achieved so far in 2011

Movado sales, net income soar The Movado Group, a Swiss luxury watchmaker, has reported a $4.4 million net income for the second quarter of 2011 due to an increase in sales. The firm suffered a total net loss of $20.9 million in 2010 yet now finds that sales have since increased by 121 per cent to reach a total of $113.2 million. Efraim Grinberg, chairman and CEO of Movado, stated that the improvement in the company’s sales is largely credited to strategic planning and solid execution, as well as strong consumer demand. According to Movado’s financial statement, the firm expects for the fiscal year of 2012 to bring in a net income between $15 million and $16.5 million.

Ulysse Nardin reveres the art of dial enamelling Known for their long-standing tradition of skilful and luxurious dial enamelling, watchmaker Ulysse Nardin has acquired the entire stake of dial enameller Donzé Cadrans. Previously owned by Francine and Michel Vermot, Donzé Cadrans’ has been sold to Nardin in hopes of continuing to reflect the watchmaker’s prestigious heritage of crafting watch dials of the highest quality. To better exemplify the brand’s admiration for luxury dial enamels, Nardin has also released a new timepiece called the Classico Enamel Champlevé Dragon. The new design features a bright orange and yellow dragon that’s meant to symbolize success and prosperity.

Brick-and-mortar still drive salesSnapdeal.com, an online discount provider, is reporting that although Internet businesses are a great source for today’s cautious consumers, it’s the brick-and-mortar employees that comprise the majority of the power behind the scenes of the retail sales industry. Kunal Bahl, chief executive director for snapdeal.com, has stated that, “Core skills like product sourcing, warehousing and logistics are not available at Internet start-ups.” Although the future of retailing lies in the success of both online and offline businesses, brick-and-mortar professionals are also looking at options online “as there is a risk of being obsolete if you are only in one space,” according to the CEO of Times Internet, Rishi Khiani. [CJ]

Top: The three finalists; Saum Khashaei, Anagha Kulkarni and Robert YoungBottom: Hamilton’s Thomas Sandrin presents Khashaei with his new watch


CJ_ad.indd 1 10/26/11 4:22:37 PM

miningcolumn


Alexis Minerals, one of Canada’s up-and-coming junior gold producers, is positioned to ramp up to commercial production at its newest property in Snow Lake, Manitoba. Alexis took over this former producing mine through the purchase of Garson Gold in April of 2010.

This historic mine was in operation from 1949 to 1958 and then from 1995 to 2005 with recorded production of over 1.44 million ounces. Since then, the project area has been expanded to cover almost 4,840 hectares. The mine hasn’t been in operation since 2005, yet Alexis is confident that the addition of this new property will change the production profile of the company based on recent feasibility study results.

Alexis Minerals has high hopes for its Snow Lake, Man. mine

GOLD RUSHPart 2

by Rob Hopkins, Alexis MineRAls in collAboRAtion witH tHe cMMF — cAnAdiAn Mining And MetAlluRgicAl FoundAtion

XX-XX.CJ_Mining02.indd 30 10/20/11 2:28:42 PM

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Visit our website for more selections: www.legajeweller.com


CJ_Lega.indd 1 10/20/11 11:11:26 AM


miningcolumn

80,000 oz of gold

The most current feasibility report for the area suggests that production from the Snow Lake mine could be over 80,000 oz of gold per year for five years. As of December 2010, current measured and indicated resources are approximately 728,000 oz of gold and inferred resources are 336,700 oz of gold. This makes the Snow Lake mine an important asset to Alexis and the company is committed to continue exploration in the area.

Of particular interest are the #3 Zone and the Main Mine Zone. Recent drill results from these areas suggest that there is additional mineralization between these zones which could potentially increase production output. Alexis also plans to explore and drill many of the other nearby zones at the Snow Lake property, including Boundary, Kim, Caper and Birch. A new team has been mobilized to undertake a regional exploration effort which should lead to a better understanding of the potential in the area.

The infrastructure at the Snow Lake mine includes a fully-permitted 2,000 tonne per day modern mill and tailings facility, and associated plant, and equipment. The mill was built in 1995 by the Kinross/High River Gold joint venture as the New Britannia Mine and operated until 2005–the mill remains in excellent condition. The ore bodies continue to be accessible through the Main Mine shaft and the #3 Zone ramp. Alexis currently maintains all permits and environmental licenses.

The Snow Lake property is road accessible from Winnipeg. The major population centres in the region are Flin Flon to the west-southwest of Snow Lake and Thompson to the northeast.

decentralized

In January of 2011, Alexis appointed a new President and CEO, François Perron. Perron was most recently the President and CEO of Golden Goose Resources. Following Perron’s appointment Alexis also appointed Gerald Thornton as Vice President, Operations (Manitoba) to oversee the Snow Lake operations in April of 2011. Alexis feels that using a decentralized approach to managing its properties will better position the efforts of the company.

Commenting on the Snow Lake mine, Perron said: “The Snow Lake project is now at the point of nearing the production decision; current efforts are centered on finalizing the project’s financing, building the team to deliver a mine as outlined in the feasibility study and the evaluation of several opportunities to further optimize our plans. These efforts, enriched by

our operating experiences, should provide for a project that will unlock significant shareholder value.”

Not to be forgotten, Alexis also holds assets in some of Canada’s richest mining regions — Val-d’Or & Rouyn-Noranda, Quebec. Here, Alexis owns over 1,000 square kilometers of property, including a producing mine and production facilities at the Lac Herbin Mining Camp.

The Lac Herbin mine, led by Vice President of Quebec Operations Sylvain Lehoux, is a consistent contributor to the production profile of Alexis Minerals and with further exploration of the area, Alexis is looking to extend the life of the mine and identify new targets for production.

Commercial gold production is a priority as Alexis continues to target growth in production levels to reach 100,000 oz. of gold by the end of 2013. With the Snow Lake mine on the horizon and the mineral rich properties in western Quebec, Alexis will be the story to watch. [CJ]

Located in one of Canada’s richest mining regions — Val-d’Or & Rouyn-Noranda, Que. — the Lac Herbin mine is another asset of Alexis Minerals.

XX-XX.CJ_Mining02.indd 32 10/20/11 2:28:51 PM

J E W E L L E R T O D AY. S U P E R H E R O T O M O R R O W .

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Make your customers aware of Personal Jewelry Insurance from Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company and you just mightsave the day! To learn how you can share information about Jewelers Mutual’s Personal Jewelry Insurance program with your customers,

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CJ N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 1 | W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M

gemologyfeature

34

Every day appraisers evaluate jewellery. In addition to weights, colours, clarities and cut grades on gems, we examine and determine the elements of design, manufacturing, setting, � nish

and polish that contribute to the � nal value. � e “evaluation” process involved in appraising is a very important aspect of the work we do.

In Australia, where I started appraising, the work I do is called “valuing,” and the worker a “valuer.” � e “appraiser” in Canada does the same job, yet has a slightly di� erent title. � e name “valuer” does convey the impression of simply assessing a dollar amount that is to be applied to an item, while the name “appraiser” gives the impression that there is more than pure dollar value being determined: appraising the factors that contribute to value. In both cases, we really should be taking all aspects of the jewel into account.

My daughters, when they were young, thought I went to work to “praise” jewellery. To them that was the nearest sounding familiar word to appraising. It seemed to them that I was just a nice guy, and “praised“ jewellery: that certainly has a nice ring to it.

Despite the di� erences in title, the “appraiser” and the “valuer” do the same job. We don’t “praise” jewellery and we don’t criticize jewellery, yet we do assess all of the factors that contribute to the value of gems and jewellery. We are describing the jewellery, judging it, while not usually criticizing it.

DESCRIPTIONS OR OPINIONS?

� e “praising” is, in e� ect, carried out anyway: � e description accounts for the quality of work, the factors of design, the amount of time involved in making the item, and all of the factors beyond pure raw materials that � nally contribute to the value of the jewellery.

In an indirect way, an appraiser will contribute an opinion as to the quality of an object being appraised or valued. � e appraiser is expected to provide an accurate description of an item, which will usually not present jewellery in a pejorative way, like saying “this ring is a piece of rubbish” (or worse, though some may merit it), yet may include description that alerts the owner to the fact that there may be factors that need attention, or that are of inferior quality: “there is extensive pitting around the bezel,” for example. It is not critical out of spite, yet is descriptive.

It would be an act of judgment to criticize an item, yet describing the item is necessary. Just because I think so much lumpy, nuggetty and bark textured 1970’s jewellery is horrible, and I’m not upset that everyone’s melting the rubbish, I don’t usually write an appraisal expressing that opinion.

Even with such dreadful jewellery as the lumps produced when gold was cheap in the 1970’s, there was good and bad. � ere were extraordinary goldsmiths who created astoundingly well-made, ugly, lumpy 1970’s jewellery, even if it is not to my taste, or perhaps anyone else’s now. On the other hand, there were poorly made jewels in the same time period.

O� en the cheap jewels are inspired by or derived from more costly originals. Part of the skill of the appraiser is to recognize the di� erence between the original and the copy, the � ne and the ordinary, the mass produced and the pieces that are truely one of a kind.

ADDED VALUE

We’re o� en asked whether we have allowed for the design, or the antique value or the custom work in things we appraise, and we must always be able to answer “yes.” We are not doing our job if we don’t account for design or custom work, or the value something may have due to its antiquity (if any).

In praise praising

Determining the value of jewellery is an involved, multi-layered process where passing judgement is frowned upon yet sometimes unavoidable

BY DUNCAN PARKER

praisingof ap

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gemologyfeature

We have to recognize the elements that contribute to the final value. If you have an 18K yellow gold wedding band, that weighs 6.50 grams, is there only one possible value for it at a certain time on a certain day with the gold market at a certain level? No. The band might be a cast mass-produced ring from a large-scale manufacturer, with modest labour costs due to economics of manufacturing, or it might be a hand-made mokume-gane ring made from 26 layers of various colours of gold in a process that took several days of work. The labour on the mass-produced ring is minor and the labour on the hand-made ring is potentially the majority of the value of the ring.

Appraisers have to be able to recognize types of work, methods used and qualities of work. We need to identify whether jewels are made by hand, assembled from manufactured parts, or cast in a single piece. If they are cast, are they cast from a unique model, or are they are cast on a mass-production basis.

From Foreign lands

Jewellery made offshore used to be crafted by processes obviously distinct from local production. Changes in chains of supply have meant that it is pretty difficult to distinguish local from far-away production. There is some really excellent jewellery manufacturing in India, China, Thailand and other countries, and these countries are producing for the North American and European markets in karats of gold for the target market. Jewellery markets have embraced these jewels, and they are often difficult to distinguish from items of local production.

Is there a reason for allocating a difference to value in Indian-made jewellery and Canadian-made jewellery? If the quality is equivalent, is it not appropriate to give the same value? The labour cost is not the same, and depending on the work involved, it might involve a small amount or a large amount of labour. In a simple item, the difference might be very little because the labour is a small part of the value, and gold is very expensive everywhere. In an item made in India or China with many hours of labour, the difference might be large because the precious metal component becomes much less than the value of the work to build the jewellery, so items made in Canada might merit higher values, if they’re identifiable as local.

Jewellery made locally has high labour costs, yet we have seen numerous items cast and rhodium-plated to create the impression of yellow and white gold two-tone jewellery, with the cost of only a single casting and cleaning up, no soldering, and an area plated with rhodium. This is done to keep costs down, all over the world. If there is no trademark, or an unknown trademark, it can be nearly impossible to identify and allocate a value based on origin. So does it matter?

one oF a kind

The allowance for design is sometimes a little more difficult. When I was studying appraising in Australia, there was a couple who were both designers and goldsmiths in my class, and they argued effectively that cast items should be given due consideration if they are custom designed, and one-off. It is often up to the appraiser to glean information from the jeweller about pieces submitted for appraisal. There are, however, some indicators of one-of-a-kind cast manufacturing. There might be no indications of a mould, particularly the fine line seen where the halves of the mould meet, when the wax is injected for jewellery made in more than single numbers.

An appraisal is also a condition report of the item being examined. The appraiser is called on to describe jewellery in quality. Again, this is not “praise” or criticism, it is a report on the nature of the jewellery, it is an observation, noting damage, missing or damaged gems, observing, and creating documentary notation of jewellery as a condition report.

The appraiser must carefully examine and document the nature of jewellery. An appraisal is a record of a jewel, and as part of the record an estimate of value is provided. The documenting and estimate of value takes into consideration the methods of manufacture, design, labour, origins and condition, and while not “praising” as my kids used to call it, the document allows the reader (and insurance underwriter) to read between the lines and arrive at an opinion of the jewel.

So far, I haven’t yet said openly in an appraisal that the horrible thing should be crushed and melted, or conversely, that I covet the thing and don’t want to give it back. However, I suspect that the description may give it away. [CJ]

From top to bottom: porosity in ring; metalwork Mokume Heidi Schnabel; handmade versus cast manufactured piece.

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Phone: 1.866.682.6823 Email: [email protected] Web: tiggroup.ca

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Polygon’s Diamond Supply & Demand report provides key decision-making information to jewellery professionals dealing I loose diamonds. It highlights shortages and surpluses in this sector, representing tangible business opportunities on both supplier and buyer ends. The data reflects actual searches performed and real-time inventory available through Polygon’s suppliers in our diamond database. Demand is shown as a percentage of the total number of searches and supply as a percentage of the total diamond inventory available. The report displays a short-list of diamonds with the highest demand and was compiled over a four-week period in September 2011.

POLYGON/CANADIAN JEWELLER MAGAZINE DIAMOND REPORT

SUPPLY & DEMAND

1-800-221-4435 | [email protected] | www.polygon.net

Jewellery ∙ Diamonds ∙ Coloured Stones ∙ Watches ∙ Pearls ∙ Gold & Precious Metals ∙ Coins ∙ Estate Pieces and more!

Polygon Report: Diamond Supply & Demand

Trusted by thousands of members in over 34 countries, Polygon is the most active online community and trading network for qualified gem and jewelleryprofessionals. Since 1984, Polygon has helped members gain invaluable knowledge and find unique trading opportunities that have significantly impactedthe year over year growth of their business. Members benefit from best-in-class professional social network tools and the largest online selection of estatepieces, high end watches, jewellery, loose diamonds, coloured stones, pearls, coins and more. The high calibre of the membership and the active participationof some of the brightest minds in the industry have made our community one of the most avidly sought business tools in the trade.

Find out how you can be part of one of the most exclusive groups of jewellery professionals.

IFFLVVS1VVS2VS1VS2SI1SI2SI3I1I2I3

Supply(%)

3.32%0.02%5.98%8.05%16.52%18.55%19.76%18.16%3.94%4.54%0.81%0.13%

Avg. Priceper Carat

$8,621.20$29,318.01$5,805.55$5,717.89$5,368.80$5,119.16$4,245.11$3,725.71$2,350.96$2,196.82$1,584.70$738.23

Demand(%)

2.69%2.27%4.33%5.28%12.05%20.56%26.22%17.78%2.92%4.98%0.80%0.11%

Shortage/Surplus

Most Popular: Clarity

<0.30.30-.37.38-.45.46-.49.50-.69.70-.79.80-.89.90-.991.00-1.251.26-1.491.50-1.992.00-2.993.00-3.994.00-4.995.00-5.99>=6.00

Supply(%)

2.82%6.47%5.21%1.45%12.54%9.78%2.82%5.82%25.36%3.79%9.91%8.53%2.97%1.18%0.85%0.51%

Avg. Priceper Carat

$1,791.27$1,984.32$2,089.40$1,953.16$2,473.51$2,956.70$3,123.08$3,464.77$4,483.73$5,718.73$6,353.64$8,006.62$12,268.46$14,706.30$18,464.94$21,868.91

Demand(%)

1.40%1.56%1.90%1.09%7.10%5.66%4.05%4.78%22.64%7.24%17.12%15.16%5.85%1.85%1.54%1.06%

Shortage/Surplus

Most Popular: Carat

DEFGHIJK+

Supply(%)

10.88%13.64%15.41%16.49%14.11%10.55%6.17%7.58%

Avg. Priceper Carat

$5,322.52$4,787.53$5,105.95$5,061.58$4,706.61$4,355.97$3,906.11$2,270.55

Demand(%)

8.76%10.19%15.92%20.95%19.87%13.52%5.77%5.03%

Shortage/Surplus

Most Popular: Colour

AsscherBaguetteCushionEmeraldHalf MoonHeartMarquiseOld EuropeanOld MinerOvalPearPrincessRadiantRoundTrapezoidTriangular

Supply(%)

1.45%0.14%7.04%4.93%0.26%1.58%3.88%0.43%0.08%4.02%12.19%5.03%5.54%52.19%0.26%0.79%

Avg. Priceper Carat

$6,147.61$2,108.80$4,864.40$5,058.58$1,859.36$3,818.75$2,877.33$3,580.57$3,005.79$3,889.78$3,404.51$4,002.04$5,282.81$5,183.35$2,171.42$2,312.03

Demand(%)

1.41%0.01%6.07%4.16%0.04%0.56%2.73%0.51%0.10%3.61%2.39%14.80%4.11%59.01%0.08%0.39%

Shortage/Surplus

Most Popular: Cut

Polygon’s Diamond Supply & Demand report provides key decision-making information to jewellery professionals dealing in loose diamonds. It highlightsshortages and surpluses in this sector, representing tangible business opportunities on both supplier and buyer ends. The data reflects actual searches performed and real-time inventory available through Polygon’s suppliers in our diamond database. Demand is shown as a percentage of the total number of searches and supply as a percentage of the total diamond inventory available. The report displays a short-list of diamonds with the highest demand and was compiled over a four-week period in September 2011..

Polygon’s diamond database is one of the largest in the jewellery industry with over 300,000 line items and an estimated wholesale value of over $3 billiondollars.

Shape

RoundRoundRoundRoundRoundPrincessRoundRoundRoundRoundPrincessPrincessCushionCushionPrincessCushionPrincessRoundPrincessRound

Colour

GGGHGGHHGGGGGGHGHGHH

Clarity

SI1SI1SI1SI1SI1SI1SI1SI1SI1SI1SI1SI1VS2VS2SI1SI1SI1SI1SI1SI1

Demand(%)

3.33%2.49%2.06%1.12%1.10%0.87%0.74%0.65%0.65%0.57%0.51%0.46%0.39%0.35%0.33%0.33%0.32%0.30%0.29%0.29%

Supply(%)

0.36%0.19%0.17%0.18%0.06%0.06%0.14%0.05%0.08%0.05%0.02%0.02%0.04%0.06%0.01%0.12%0.01%0.06%0.01%0.02%

Avg. Priceper Carat

$5,561.48$7,509.36$9,298.61$2,148.73$6,321.33$3,094.82$3.080.67$10,324.89$4,309.04$3,676.99$4,985.00$6.285.83$6,045.16$8,635.97$1,935.98$3,353.36$1,381.04$1,600.78$2,971.60$13,354.03

Shortage/Surplus

Most Popular: Overall

Carat

1.00-1.251.50-1.992.00-2.990.50-0.691.26-1.491.00-1.250.70-0.793.00-3.990.90-0.990.80-0.891.50-1.992.00-2.991.50-1.992.00-2.990.70-0.791.00-1.250.50-0.690.38-0.451.26-1.494.00-4.99

The Diamond Price report is provided by Polygon for the benefit of the trade and provides key decision-making information to jewelry professionals dealing in loose diamonds. Prices are per-carat, wholesale, asking price averages for independently-graded round diamonds in Polygon’s diamond database, as of the date shown. Actual transaction prices are confidential and may be somewhat lower. This matrix counts SI3 as I1 for purposes of computing averages. In general, finer makes will command higher prices, as will stones at the higher end of each weight range. The data represents the

IF VVSI VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 I1 IF VVSI VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 I1D 4061 3385 2986 2706 2302 1805 1633 1256 D 8426 6388 5203 4864 4328 3618 2754 1664E 3322 3106 2792 2494 2153 1724 1519 1198 E 6500 5380 4908 4468 3879 3216 2556 1648F 3241 2917 2563 2278 2055 1638 1430 1155 F 5594 5096 4587 4367 3738 2880 2451 1555G 2926 2651 2405 2217 1956 1603 1411 1084 G 5171 4798 4349 3983 3336 2637 2109 1529H 2 2 2606 22 8 2018 186 1 23 1348 1033 H 4 29 44 4001 3320 30 2 2460 199 1 18

1/3 CARAT (0.30 - 0.49) 1/2 CARAT (0.50 - 0.69)

p g g g , g p , g g g pmarket trends on Polygon vs. the industry as a whole and is intended to be a comparative source of additional market information.

H 2772 2606 2258 2018 1867 1523 1348 1033 H 4729 4455 4001 3320 3052 2460 1995 1518I 2548 2393 2162 1820 1666 1471 1300 943 I 4088 3902 3457 2924 2590 2157 1963 1448J 2379 2209 1938 1674 1421 1286 1197 842 J 3574 3352 3058 2756 2297 1921 1804 1287K 1914 1856 1507 1414 1281 1167 1010 728 K 2786 2660 2292 1895 1746 1610 1514 1118

IF VVSI VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 I1 IF VVSI VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 I1D 11648 8140 7300 6235 5724 4580 3890 2217 D 13531 12598 10728 8928 7398 6269 5244 2984E 8276 7247 6603 6053 5242 4398 3667 2158 E 12461 11158 8940 7473 6953 5786 4956 2893

3/4 CARAT (0.70 - 0.89) 9/10 CARAT (0.90 - 0.99)

E 8276 7247 6603 6053 5242 4398 3667 2158 E 12461 11158 8940 7473 6953 5786 4956 2893F 7587 6978 6160 5713 4967 4316 3498 2072 F 10986 9881 7982 7230 6623 5654 4778 2803G 6983 6024 5648 4998 4561 3975 3366 1961 G 9213 8362 6760 6519 5940 5130 4465 2510H 6046 5566 4980 4528 4104 3701 3035 1928 H 7956 7087 6523 5707 5433 4827 4168 2380I 5036 4698 4383 3929 3713 3163 2698 1915 I 6677 6097 5583 5004 4703 4221 3667 2336J 4046 3798 3489 2954 2919 2586 2309 1768 J 5788 5067 4781 4386 3853 3644 3248 2201K 3114 2905 2637 2465 2184 2030 1839 1459 K 4376 4093 3665 3141 2867 2825 2318 1914

1 CARAT (1 00 1 49) 1 1/2 CARAT (1 50 1 99)IF VVSI VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 I1 IF VVSI VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 I1

D 27008 19061 16268 13506 11198 8168 6652 3752 D 33239 24477 21185 17851 15066 11202 8786 4624E 18675 16309 13388 11396 9739 7384 6373 3489 E 23402 20680 17458 15774 13483 10304 8301 3958F 15725 13332 11275 10615 8965 7223 6012 3252 F 20227 17520 15564 13840 11998 10251 7944 3597G 12546 11689 10516 8919 8194 6866 5709 3067 G 16313 14495 13303 12131 10959 9418 7239 3369H 10684 10056 8907 7978 7233 6367 5508 2967 H 13684 12551 11657 10310 9678 8459 6826 3318I 8746 8384 7439 6730 6417 5664 5024 2773 I 11319 10584 9732 8940 8154 7248 6155 3126J 7275 7044 6654 5902 5534 4928 4513 2503 J 9720 8822 8475 7484 6687 6018 5377 2619

1 CARAT (1.00 - 1.49) 1 1/2 CARAT (1.50 - 1.99)

J 7275 7044 6654 5902 5534 4928 4513 2503 J 9720 8822 8475 7484 6687 6018 5377 2619K 6188 5880 5427 5080 4756 4108 3756 2257 K 6913 6797 6687 6174 5598 5020 4529 2528

IF VVSI VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 I1 IF VVSI VVS2 VS1 VS2 SI1 SI2 I1D 51851 39731 33975 27748 20777 15961 11416 5537 D 105149 77097 58942 49786 38835 23884 15572 7260E 34059 31878 28963 23567 18056 14160 10547 5077 E 69000 62218 51325 40406 32639 20959 15284 6455F 30015 27926 24378 20946 17632 12975 10456 4318 F 56233 50045 43007 36154 29547 19667 14119 5771G 25046 21751 19227 16718 14644 11969 9879 4032 G 45662 41656 33998 29564 24466 17602 13163 5360

2 CARAT (2.00 - 2.99) 3 CARAT (3.00 - 3.99)

H 18800 17619 16654 14779 12454 10998 9387 4016 H 32179 30317 27860 24754 19357 14468 12068 4950I 14372 14007 13309 11808 10573 9544 8552 3991 I 24867 23768 22737 19340 16210 12191 10437 4813J 12061 11438 11006 9505 8580 7898 7242 3589 J 20036 17848 16921 15405 13515 10653 9429 4416K 10214 10022 9365 8395 7654 6994 6059 3187 K 15205 14904 12499 11121 11100 9445 8442 3352

Trusted by thousands of members, Polygon is the most active online community and trading network for qualified gem and jewelry professionals. Over 2,800 members benefit from best-in-class professional social network tools and the largest online selection of estate pieces, high end watches, jewelry, loose diamonds, colored stones, pearls, coins and more. The high caliber of members on the network and the active participation of some of the brightest minds in the industry have made Polygon'spearls, coins and more. The high caliber of members on the network and the active participation of some of the brightest minds in the industry have made Polygon s community one of the most avidly sought business tools in the trade. Call 1-800-221-4435 or email [email protected] for more information.

The total asking price of the listings in Polygon’s diamond database is more than $3 billion. Stones are listed for sale by more than 700 dealers from around the world. All transactions are conducted privately between buyer and seller. Polygon doesn't make any representations whatsoever with respect to these indicators. Listings and prices on Polygon change hourly, and there can be no assurance that a buyer will be able to locate any specific stone at a specific price.

The Diamond Prices report is provided by Polygon for the benfit of the trade and provides key decision-making information to jewellery professionals dealing in loose diamonds. Prices are per-carat, wholesale, asking price averages for independently-graded round diamonds in Polygon’s diamond database, as of October 1st, 2011. Actual transaction prices are confidential and may be somewhat lower. This matrix counts SI3 as I1 for purposes of computing averages. In general, finer makes will command higher prices, as will stones at the higher end of each weight range. The data represents the market trends on Polygon vs. the industry as a whole and is intended to be a comparative source of additional market information

PRICING


polygonCJreport

Polygon.net is the most active online community and trading network for jewellery professionals.

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coverstorycoverstory


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By Carlos Weigle

PhotograPhy By rive gauChe Media

Beth Saunders believes the Canadian Jewellery Group can give independent retailers a fighting chance.



coverstory

The same unpredictability rule could apply to Beth Saunders, who moved to Huntsville, Ont. twenty years ago, unaware she was to devote as many years to the CJG. “We had just moved here and I was looking for something to do once the kids were all in school,” says Saunders. “With a banking background I answered an ad for the Canadian Jewellery Group. I worked on their accounting for seven years and then became general manager in 1998.”

It’s fair to say that Saunders knows what the CJG is all about: “All of the members are independent retailers. We’re non-profit, in a sense, as all profits are divided among the shareholders. Every retail member owns a share in the company. They get rebates at the end of the year based on how much business they bring to the group.”

Saunders keeps current through involvement in industry associations. She is a director on the board of Jewellers Vigilance Canada, and served as President from 2008 to 2010; a past director of the Canadian Jewellers Association; and has been a member of the Jewellery Advisory Council for Georgian College since 2007. Saunders was one of five women invited to join the Canadian Jewellers 24 kt Club in 2007, a first for the previously all-male organization, and currently sits as the first woman on their board of directors.

Why Join?

One of the primary motivations for joining a buying group is that it allows members to get better prices on merchandise. One misconception is that

ife can be unpredictable sometimes. When seven jewellers in Northern Ontario decided to join efforts in 1977, they probably didn’t anticipate the Canadian Jewellery Group (CJG) would become what it is now: Canada’s foremost group

of independent jewellers: a thriving organization that includes 95 retailers and 114 stores, across Canada.

From left to right: Jennifer Scott (A Touch of Gold), Ralph Hess (Hess Jewellers), Rose Taylor (Taylor’s Jewellers), Wayne Fisher (Richardson’s Jewellers), Lou Alteen (L.J. Alteen Jewellers), John Halsall (JR Jewellers), Brian VandenDool (VandenDool Jewellers), Beth Saunders (CJG’s General Manager) Ernie Epp (Independent Jeweller), Missing from photo: Todd Wright (Wright’s Jewelry).



coverstory

members will be forced to buy from certain suppliers or that the group will actually buy for them. According to Saunders, that isn’t the case: “Members are not restricted to buying from our suppliers. However, by supporting Group suppliers they benefit from the prenegotiated discounts and rebates. As well, payment terms are a minimum 30 days from statement date and can go as high as 60 days, far in excess of the industry standard of 10 to 15 days.”

Speaking of payment, another advantage the CJG offers their members is the ability to make one single monthly payment, which the group uses to

pay all the different suppliers on behalf of the retailer. “Some retailers think we buy for them, yet we don’t,” clarifies Saunders. “They’re independent store owners and independents don’t want anybody to buy for them, so we pay the suppliers for them and they pay us.”

For an independent retailer, who takes pride in succeeding by him or herself, to join a group may seem counterintuitive. While the answers to that question are varied, the truth of the matter is that it’s a very competitive market out there, and even the toughest contenders can, at times, use a little help.

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Staying competitive

Brian VandenDool, President of the CJG’s board of directors and co-owner of VandenDool Jewellers, tells what motivated him to join the group. “Our store was located in downtown St. Catharines (southern Ontario) and there was a lot of competition to contend with,” he explains. “We were also looking to increase our market share and not just maintain what we were doing. Our parents – who owned the store then – were looking for a competitive advantage and found it in the CJG.”

Wayne Fisher, also a CJG board member and owner of Richardson’s Jewellery in Lloydminster, Alta., tells his own story: “The store was doing fine yet we knew we could get better pricing and terms if we were part of a bigger group, and that spells profit! When you’re an independent, you feel you are on your own and have no one else to bounce ideas or concerns off of.” What qualifies a retailer as an “independent,” by the way? As far as the CJG is concerned, someone who has five or less stores.

Certainly sharing ideas is one of the most appealing aspects of belonging to a network. Yet, how does that work? Would you be sharing your best strategies with your direct competitors? One of the CJG’s goals is to ensure that doesn’t happen. As Saunders explains it, “we accept one retailer from

each territory, especially if it’s a small town. In the larger centres we might have a few, depending on the market. For instance, we have three in Edmonton, three in Calgary and four in Winnipeg. We are the only buying group in Canada with members from coast to coast and this gives our members a unique opportunity to learn what works for jewellers in other provinces as well as their own.”

Aside from annual rebates (which amounted to $795,000 this year), simplified payments and networking, the CJG also offers its members the opportunity to buy from a variety of select manufacturers that they wouldn’t have access to otherwise. According to Ralph Hess, board member and owner of Hess Jewellers, Sault Ste. Marie, Ont., “it helps me get into different product lines that I wouldn’t normally have bought myself.”

Nowadays the group has relationships with sixty-eight vendors. Even though a few are from the U.S., the majority are from Canada. “That’s what we’ve tried to do, support the Canadian manufacturers as much as we can,” says Saunders. Retailers and vendors have a chance to get together and find new business opportunities every August in Toronto during the CJG’s exclusive trade show. The event also serves as a perfect occasion to get together and reward the best supplier and retailers of the year.

Dress; Elie Tahari.Styling by Terri Dacquisto, Makeup/Hair by Claudine Baltazar



coverstory

Marketing is key

Marketing is another area where the CJG is focusing their efforts. Launched three years ago, the National Diamond Store is the group’s marketing program and a successful initiative so far. “About half of our retailers have already signed on to it,” explains Saunders. “We do in-store marketing for them, radio advertising, newspaper ads, you name it. It’s something we’re continuing to build on.”

Being in an organization such as the CJG gives its members a unique perspective of the industry’s many challenges. Ernest D. Epp, board member and owner of Independent Jewellers, in Winnipeg, lists some of them: “Suppliers becoming retailers and selling directly on the Internet, an aging population without a corresponding growth in the younger demographics, commoditization on many products…”

VandenDool adds a few more himself: “Competition from chain stores and big box stores, trying to have our customers spend their disposable income on jewellery instead of electronics or vacations, having access to the proper lines of jewellery and buying at the best prices…” On top of all that, VandenDool emphasizes what may be the biggest challenge of all, “trying to stay relevant in today’s retail marketplace is a concern that every independent has.”

eMbrace the web

Staying relevant – and competitive – is no easy task. The Internet is usually at the top of most people’s blame list. However, the CJG believes it’s a tool that can be put to work for you. “We have helped our members set up Facebook pages and have a company that does websites for them. We also do e-marketing and create e-flyers,” says Saunders. “A number of our retailers are from an older generation and the Internet is not

something that they’re very comfortable with,” she adds. Even the ones with an online presence sometimes take the wrong approach. As Saunders sees it, “some jewellers tend to have a lot of product on their website yet if they have just a little bit, to show the consumer what they offer and some pricing, it drives them into the store instead of having them spending hours on the Internet.”

The seemingly unstoppable price of gold and diamonds is also changing the way retailers do business. Consumers looking at the price of a gold bracelet are having second thoughts, causing retailers to increase their silver jewellery options. Retailers have also changed the way they buy. As Saunders points out, “they are a lot more cautious about what they carry in inventory.”

Yet even in uncertain times, there is always cause for optimism. That oftentimes translates in giving back to the community. The CJG certainly believes in that. For 10 years participating members have sold the

CJG Christmas Charity ornament and donated the funds to their local charities, raising over $250,000 to date. The Group as a whole has been involved in another charitable organization – Mike’s Miracles – for the last few years. “Unfortunately, one of our directors lost his son to cancer so we’ve done fundraisers for Mike’s Miracles and donated the money to causes,” explains Saunders. “This year, for the first time, we held a silent auction and collected scrap gold and raised $17,600 for Ronald McDonald Houses across Canada.”

Life can be unpredictable, no doubt about it. Yet when it comes to business, there are ways you can protect yourself. Getting together with your peers and fighting for your place in the sun is certainly a way to do so. [CJ]

Top: Beth Saunders with Ralph Hess from Hess Jewellers and Wayne Fisher from Richardson’s Jewellers.Bottom: Beth Saunders with Jennifer Scott from A Touch of Gold and Rose Taylor, Taylor’s Jewellers



productfocus

“Custom”BUILT TO LASTTechnology takes the venerable art of custom-made jewellery to a whole new levelby IrIna Lytchak

Custom-made jewellery has always been a vital practice that helped retailers connect with their clients on a more personal level. With today’s technological advancements reaching new heights in the

custom design sector of the jewellery industry, retailers have the ability to make the ties with their customers that much stronger by offering a faster manufacturing process, more detailed design options, and most importantly, impeccable service.

Technological Progression

Many of today’s top jewellery retailers and designers are testifying to the fact that technology has come a long way in the past few years when it comes to designing a piece of jewellery for a client. “The main thing in the way it’s changed is just the ability to create anything that I can come up with,” says Elliot Mereski, a jeweller specializing in custom design at family-owned The Goldworks Ltd. in Lethbridge, Alberta. “Thanks to technology, I can sit down with the customer and build absolutely anything that I can think of and what they want. So there are no limitations in the design process. That’s a big change and it’s really helped improve the quality and just let our creativity come out in our pieces.”

The longstanding practice of jewellery design has always called on manufacturers to work with existing moulds or carve by hand, which is still done today depending on the intricacy of the piece. Yet now programs like CAD, a computer-based design and drafting technology, and more specifically,Gemvision Matrix, a type of CAD software that also allows the rendering images of custom orders that are sent to the client for approval, allow jewellery makers to use computer innovation for creating custom orders.

Custom-designed piece created by Michelle Graff of National Jeweler

Knar’s 18k white gold ladies diamond and ruby ring

Steve Kalm ring with fancy emerald and antique diamonds from The Goldworks Ltd.

XXX-XXX.CJ_feature.indd 48 10/20/11 11:57:15 AM

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“Luckily, my dad likes to be on the cutting-edge of jewellery and so he had been looking at the CAD systems and laser welders and all of the really advanced tools,” says Mereski. “It’s really important to stay up-to-date because somebody who’s carving by hand, would have a really hard time competing against somebody who can do a more accurate job on the computer.”

Bob Cox, chief sales and marketing officer at Stuller, adds that about four years ago, there were very few customization opportunities available to clients other than traditional trade shop work. Nowadays, companies like Stuller and DeBeers are adding new options such as ‘build-a-ring,” a feature that allows potential customers to use the Internet to enhance the design process by selecting all of the necessary elements they may prefer including the style of mounting, the shape, the size and the colour of a stone.

“In this industry, the usage of technology in customization will become more and more prevalent simply because the younger generation grew up with technology,” says Cox. “This is an expectation that they just bring in with them to the shopping experience. If they can design a running shoe, then they have every reason to expect that they ought to be able to come in and modify rings or jewellery in the same context.”

Turning old inTo new

A large portion of custom jewellery sales is generated from clients who bring in their old pieces and have them reworked into something completely new, or who choose to take certain elements like stones and use them to accent a new or a completely different piece. Most jewellers are experienced with reconstructing worn-out antique pieces and doing things like rebuilding shanks, building new setting heads and setting new gems. The central goal for many customers when they bring in an old piece of jewellery is rescuing its originality and making it more durable and stronger for the next generation to wear.

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“A lot of times, a customer has her grandmother’s ring yet she wants to take some design elements off of it, possibly build it in white gold and maybe change the stones around,” explains Mereski. “We try to take inspiration from whatever the customer’s drawn to and really emphasize on trying to build exactly what the customer wants.”

John Van de Kamer, manager of Knar Jewellery in Guelph, Ontario, says that working with antique and old jewellery pieces makes up for about 50 per cent of his total custom design sales. A lot of the customers who are looking into revising heirloom pieces also find themselves to be financially comfortable and are not afraid to splurge on getting a luxurious stone or setting added to their old piece.

“Oftentimes, people get those milestone ideas. For a lot of our clients, the kids are now looked after, the house is paid for and they want to treat themselves,” says Kamer. “A lot of our clients are professional women and they run their own show… because they’re working so hard, they want to be rewarded. They envision the possibilities.”

The IndefInITe Shopper

One of the things that occurs quite commonly when a client comes into a store for custom work, is that they don’t have a solid idea of the kind of end product they’d like to see. However, many jewellers and manufacturers are all too familiar with this experience and feel comfortable and prepared to work with the client in order to take them through the creative process step-by-step. “A large number of our staff members are actually trained goldsmiths who are able to communicate in broad strokes about what people are interested in and can get down to the nitty gritty details of the design process. When it comes to gems, we have gemologists on staff that work with clients if they’re after a particularly interesting type,” says Kamer. “The challenge is that you’ve got to be able to convey to your staff the possibilities that are out there. If you can’t express that effectively, then they can’t talk to the clients in an intelligent way either.”

Paul Hofland, owner of Ph Design, is also very accustomed to helping clients during the design process, specifically by providing them with images of already-made pieces and then narrowing it down to precise details such as style, price, size, colour and texture.

“We can definitely modify whatever [the client] brings because we’re making it custom, we can make whatever somebody wants,” says Hofland. “If they see something they like, it’s usually because there is a good trend going through the market and we can duplicate or mimic that trend.”

The connection that’s developed between the jeweller and their client is one of the factors that sets many jewellery designers apart from the rest. Mereski says he actually prefers it when his clients have very little idea about what kind of piece they would like to create from scratch; it allows for way more possibilities and less reservation from a customer that doesn’t have their mind strictly set on one concept.

Top: Custom-designed piece created by Peggy Jo Donahue of MJSAMiddle: White gold lavender sapphire ring rendering from The Goldworks Ltd.Bottom: 14k white gold family pendant with genuine birthstones and diamonds from The Goldworks Ltd.


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“I always tell people to look at jewellery and see what’s out there and just pick some ideas that your eyes are drawn to. Then I’ll be the one to sketch it and draw it out in a way that’s going to work with your hand and work with the material and stones that you envision,” says Mereski.

‘Custom’ in Customer serviCe

Like many of the other store owners and retailers, Mereski says the service his family-owned business is able to provide in their community is what makes them stand out.

“When I’m designing a ring with a customer, I’m really trying to put myself in their head and understand how important it is to them to have something made. It’s not an inexpensive process in general. It’s a luxury item and it’s something that they’re going to have forever and they’re going to look at it every day,” he says. “I think of it as getting a tattoo almost, or think of it similarly as far as how important it is to somebody. [The clients] want to know that we care about what we’re building and we really want to make sure that every customer leaves happy.”

Stuller’s Cox adds that “increasing customer service and expanding the interactive experience in the store” is a major selling point for most jewellers in the custom design industry. “Obviously, people don’t embrace change easily and that’s one of the areas where we’re focusing on giving training tips and training aid to customers to accelerate the learning curve.” Stuller’s floor staff are highly trained in being able at turn over customers, upsell, overcome objections and develop their own selling style. “When you try to introduce the customization conversation addressed to a specific piece of jewellery, it requires a new way of thinking, communicating and selling.” All the characteristics that Stuller associates are trained to ensure for each customer with the help of the firm’s training programs.

Knar’s Kamer agrees, “The ability to satisfy clients with custom work is not even an option these days. You have to be able to do it in order to stay in business.”

A Look AheAd

Many jewellers have an optimistic outlook on the future of the custom design industry, that it will continue to grow stronger through the years. Recent market numbers have shown that the prices of various metals and other materials are on the rise as a result of which, jewellery retailers and manufacturers are slowly being forced to carry less and less inventory. Combined with the fact that people have a lot of old jewellery they don’t want to wear yet would rather redesign into something different and new, the odds are promising for the custom jewellery sector.

With the holiday season fast approaching, jewellers are already on the lookout for clientele that are interested in starting the design process earlier, whether it’s a custom piece created for themselves or as a special gift for someone close. [CJ]

productfocus


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cjenfrançais

Canadian JewellerEN FRANÇAIS

CONTRIBUTEURS

Étant moi-même francophone, il est essentiel que je m’assure que Canadian Jeweller soit la revue par excellence pour tout Canadien impliqué dans notre métier. Le seul élément qui jusqu’à présent manquait pour atteindre cet objectif était une section en français dans notre magazine. Et nos vœux sont maintenant exhaussés!Le Québec est – et a toujours été – une des premières destinations en matière de bijouterie. Ses détaillants, designers et fabricants sont parmi les meilleurs au pays. Et cependant, la belle province est souvent omise par les médias spécialisés anglophones. Je compte bien changer cette tendance!Je reviens tout juste de l’Expo Prestige à Montréal, et j’ai tout simplement été époustou� é par la créativité et l’esprit d’entrepreneuriat de l’industrie de la bijouterie du Québec. Sa voix doit être entendue dans tout le pays et il est donc tout naturel et à propos que je m’exprime ici dans sa langue. Ces pages, qui à l’origine ont été écrites en français, célèbrent le fabuleux talent que le Québec a à o� rir.Le contenu sera propre à l’industrie de la province et ne sera pas reproduit en anglais, tout comme le contenu anglais ne sera pas traduit en français sur nos pages. Maintenant, c’est à vous de jouer : nous comptons sur vous pour nous procurer une direction et des idées qui re� èteront l’aspect unique de notre marché.

Olivier FelicioRédacteur en chef

Un magazine réellement national

Lise PetitpasLise Petitpas œuvre depuis près de 40 ans dans des postes administratifs et a à son actif de nombres réalisations dans le domaine de la gestion d’organismes publics et sans but lucratif. Elle a contribué au développement de la Corporation des bijoutiers du Québec (C.B.Q.) où elle travaille avec passion depuis 1985.

Carmen RivetCarmen Rivet, gemmologiste diplômée du GIA, est propriétaire unique d’une magni� que bijouterie à Saint-Lambert. L’excellence de son travail lui vaut une réputation qui traverse les frontières du Québec. Elle est très impliquée dans divers comités de l’industrie et de sa communauté.

Jean LangevinJean Langevin est le président de la Joaillerie Jean Langevin depuis 1990 et le propriétaire de Tech Emotion, le distributeur exclusif des collections Jean Langevin, depuis 2006. Il est bijoutier horloger de métier depuis 1979 et détient une grande expérience en matière de création de bijoux.

NOUVELLE

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Olivier Felicio

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Canadian Jeweller B: 9.25 X 11.125in T: 9 x 10.875in L: 8.5 x 10.375

What’s something most people don’t know about your job? It’s the only business in the world conducted on trust. You sell 1 to 5 million dollars just on the telephone, without even a signature.

A diamond dealer’s most valuable asset? Reputation. Yes, you need a sense of artistic value and a knack for design, but the most essential part is integrity. You can’t survive without it.

What has doing business in Hong Kong taught you about the Asian market? It’s one of the strongest in the world. Every day, there are new millionaires and new businesses. Asians are very investment-conscious. Diamonds are safer and more profitable than money in a bank.

All-time favorite purchase? Most recently, a 100+ ct. D FL. Incredible brilliance and scintillation. Such a beauty. People fell down when they saw it.

Did it arrive with a grading report? Ha, ha. GIA, of course. What responsible businessman, with a good reputation and name, would sell a diamond without a GIA report?

Why is a GIA evaluation so important to one’s reputation? It’s the most reliable, authentic, dependable gem institute in the world. People know that, especially in the Far East. Remember what I said about reputation? A GIA report is crucial.

Business words to the wise? Selling is an idea game. The more knowledge you have, the more confidence you feel.

GIA gratefully acknowledges those who, for 80 years, have used our resources to

further world expertise in gems. Invest in your success at WWW.GIA.EDU

EPHRAIM ZION of Dehres Limited handles more diamonds in a day than most people see in a lifetime. Here he discusses the power of reputation, global diamond investment and why a GIA report is vital to any business built on integrity.

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Combien de femmes ont un collier traditionnel de perles blanches dans le fond d’un tiroir. On ne les porte plus aussi souvent qu’autrefois. Trop classique? Trop démodé? Trop sérieux? Trop petit alors que la mode est aux plus gros bijoux?

On ne veut cependant pas s’en défaire, préférant conserver le souvenir du moment où on a reçu ce collier en cadeau, ou encore le souvenir de celle qui l’a porté avant nous, que ce soit notre mère, notre grand-mère, notre belle-maman, une sœur ou une amie.

Quand tous les titres des revues de mode nous parlent de « rétro », « clin d’œil au classique », « nostalgie », « jeux d’hier » et « plaisirs d’autrefois », conjuguons toutes ces tendances pour rajeunir le look d’un ancien collier. Plusieurs possibilités s’offrent aux perles pour sortir de leur retraite mais je ne peux pas toutes vous les démontrer ici. Je vous donne donc notre truc le plus populaire auprès des dames, le caméléon à 72 pouces.

S’il s’agit d’un collier en chute (perles de grosseurs inégales), commencez par le désenfiler, nettoyez les perles avec une eau savonneuse douce et rincez à l’eau tiède. Épongez-les avec un chiffon doux. Remettez-les à plat dans le désordre. Ajoutez-y des perles d’autres couleurs, des billes de pierres variées selon les couleurs préférées de votre cliente : améthyste, malachite, quartz rose, pierre de soleil, péridot, grenat, citrine, tourmaline, lapis lazuli et billes d’or ou d’argent, et variez les grosseurs. Ne vous retenez pas, vous pouvez mélanger les couleurs et il n’est pas nécessaire que le motif soit régulier. Amenez la longueur à environ 70 ou 72 po. Installez le résultat sur un fil temporaire pour le montrer à votre cliente qui peut vous demander d’ajouter du jaune ou de retrancher du gris, et vous vérifiez ensemble la longueur. Réenfilez avec des nœuds entre chaque bille ou du moins, de chaque côté des perles. Le fermoir n’est pas utile.

Par Carmen rivet, G.G.

cjenfrançais


Recyclez, créez, brillez!Donnez une seconde vie à vos vieux bijoux

Recyclageetintelligent

créatif

NOUVELLE

SECTION

Nous avons trouvé une douzaine de façons de porter ce nouveau collier : Sur un rang simple, c’est long, accrochant, c’est pour faire la belle seulement. Les actrices qui vont chercher leur oscar peuvent se permettre d’avoir un collier qui leur tombe presque jusqu’aux genoux... (Photo 1). Au besoin, faites-y un nœud pour le raccourcir un peu. (Photo 2)

Sur deux rangs, c’est déjà plus facile à porter. Les deux rangs peuvent être égaux, légèrement distants ou un étrangleur avec un très long. (Photos 3-4-5). La grande tendance est de placer ces deux rangs rapprochés et d’y ajouter une broche près du cou; on l’appelle la cravate qui ajoute une touche très féminine à une tenue d’affaire. (Photo 6). Aucun homme n’en aura une aussi magnifique!

Sur trois rangs, il peut encore passer par-dessus la tête sans avoir recours à un fermoir. À quatre rangs, c’est un magnifique collier court qu’on peut porter dans le désordre - ou en torsade. Il faut l’attacher avec un raccourcisseur, un anneau en or qui s’ouvre ou une épingle perlée, ou encore avec une

broche centrée en avant. Dites à vos clientes de ressortir leur vieux camée, le mélange du vieux et du nouveau fait fureur. On peut aussi ajouter un pendentif sur bélière à ouverture en plaçant le raccourcisseur en avant.

Et finalement, le collier peut se transformer en bracelet volumineux lorsque placé à huit rangs. Plus on le torsade, plus on le raccourci, ce qui convient à toutes les dimensions de poignets. (Photo 7).

Et pourquoi pas en ceinture? Elle sera étroite, mais quel raffinement ajouté à une tenue qui se distingue. Pour tailles 36 ou moins. Rappelez-vous, plus vous torsadez, plus vous raccourcissez. (Photo 8).

Joe Dassin chantait « on va sortir la nouvelle vague du fond des vieux tiroirs ». Voici justement une façon originale et amusante d’utiliser un collier qui s’ennuyait au fond du vieux tiroir, et d’en faire un accessoire mode qui fera jaser. Et pour vous, des clientes qui feront votre publicité. [CJ]

cjenfrançais

Recyclage


1. 3. 4.

5.

2.

7.6. 8.

XXX-XXX.CJ_FrenchEditorialD.indd 59 10/24/11 4:54:16 PM


Par Lise PetitPas

cjenfrançais

Expo Prestige fête ses membres et présidents, passés, présents et futurs.

Aujourd’hui et hier : anciens présidents de la Corporation des bijoutiers du Québec. De gauche à droite : Maurice Corriveau, Claude Migneault, André Marchand (président actuel), Michel Plourde et André Roy. Absents : Pierre Tremblay et Bernard Gauthier.

Prestige60

ans de

NOUVeLLe

seCtiON



cjenfrançais

L’Expo Prestige 2011 a connu un grand succès malgré le prix élevé de l’or, la conjoncture économique incertaine et la visite inattendue de l’ouragan Irène.

La 41e édition de l’Expo a dépassé nos attentes et tous les intervenants de l’industrie ont apprécié les nouveautés qui y étaient présentées.

Le comité organisateur a travaillé d’arrache-pied pour faire en sorte que l’Expo Prestige soit à la hauteur des attentes des exposants et des bijoutiers détaillants visiteurs.

Nous sommes très fiers de la qualité des exposants qui, année après année, nous présentent des collections de bijoux extraordinaires et investissent des sommes gigantesques pour les mettre en valeur.

Les exposants rehaussent de plus en plus l’esthétique de leurs stands d’exposition, de telle sorte que l’Expo Prestige est considérée comme la plus belle exposition au Canada, et nous en sommes très fiers. C’est avec satisfaction que nous entendons les représentants de l’industrie de la bijouterie nous dire que c’est le Salon de bijouterie par excellence au Canada.

Cette année, les activités présentées et les décors de l’exposition tournaient autour des 60 ans de la Corporation des bijoutiers du Québec (C.B.Q.). En effet, des bannières et des affiches placées à plusieurs endroits stratégiques de l’Expo, mentionnaient les noms de tous les présidents de la C.B.Q. depuis 1952.

Lors du cocktail dînatoire du dimanche offert gratuitement aux exposants et aux visiteurs, grâce à la générosité de Création Malo, Papillon Gemme et la C.B.Q., on a rendu hommage aux présidents toujours vivants de la C.B.Q. Ainsi, nous avons le grand bonheur d’y rencontrer messieurs Maurice Corriveau, André Roy, Claude Migneault, Pierre Tremblay, Michel Plourde et André Marchand, l’actuel président.

Nous avons ensuite remis une plaque honorifique aux bijoutiers de l’année Madame Marilyne Lemieux et monsieur Pascal Charron de la Bijouterie Jacques Charron & Fils, élus par les représentants de l’A.C.R.B.

Puis, nous avons dévoilé les noms des représentants ex-æquo de l’année, élus par les bijoutiers membres de la C.B.Q. : messieurs Kevin Gauvin de Timex Group Canada Inc. et Michel Thibaudeau de Corona Jewellery Company.

Les prix des plus beaux stands ont été remis à Beverly Hills Jewellers Mfg. Ltd. pour le stand multiple, Libman & Company (Division of Martin Ross Group.) pour le stand double et Équipement Boni Inc. pour le stand simple.

Ce fut donc sans contredit, une exposition de qualité à la hauteur de l’Industrie de la bijouterie. [CJ]

André Marchand décerne les prix de l’Expo Prestige de 2011. Bijoutiers de l’année, Marilyne Lemieux et Pascal Charron (Bijouterie Jacques Charron); Vendeur de l’année, Kevin Gauvin (Timex Group Canada).

Prestige60

de

André Marchand décerne les prix de l’Expo Prestige de 2011. De

gauche à droite : Plus beau stand double, Cameron Gillies (Libman &

Company); Plus beau stand multiple, Anecha Raghubir (Beverly Hills

Jewellers); Plus beau stand simple, Alain Marcoux (Équipement Boni).



cjenfrançais

Joaillerie Jean Langevin, avec à sa tête son président monsieur Jean Langevin, ne compte plus les années d’expérience à son actif en matière d’expertise et de création de bijoux. Bijoutier/horloger de métier depuis 1979, c’est en 1990

que monsieur Langevin ajoute à son tableau la joaillerie.

En 1995, monsieur Langevin reçoit une invitation de la présidente de l’école de Gemmologie de Montréal et de l’Association de la perle de culture de Tahiti à se joindre à une expédition organisée par la GIE a� n de visiter les très sélectes fermes perlières de Tahiti. Il participe à une formation sur les perles de Tahiti et est invité par le fait même en tant qu’observateur à plusieurs ventes aux enchères encourues par les marchands mondiaux de la perle de culture des mers du Sud de Tahiti.

Son intérêt pour les perles est vivement attisé et il poursuit sur cette lancée en grati� ant de sa présence di� érentes expositions à travers le monde lui permettant de découvrir le fascinant monde de la perle. Les multiples variétés de formes, de taille et de couleurs l’inspirent dans son processus de création.

En 2006, monsieur Jean Langevin se porte acquéreur de Tech Emotion établie sur la rue Chabanel à Montréal depuis plusieurs décennies. Sous la haute direction de son chef d’atelier monsieur Simon Marcil, Tech Emotion devient le distributeur exclusif des Collections Jean Langevin.

Ils travaillent en étroite collaboration à l’élaboration, à la création et à la réalisation de nouveaux designs. Ils unissent leur passion commune pour les perles a� n d’o� rir des pièces uniques en or vert, rose, jaune ou blanc sertis de perles Noires de Tahiti, Jaune d’Australie, Grise des Philippines et même de perles couleur Lavande en provenance d’Orient.

En e� et, d’in� nies possibilités s’o� rent à la création d’une pièce de joaillerie et c’est pourquoi monsieur Jean Langevin et Tech Emotion ne cessent de se renouveler a� n d’o� rir des créations uniques. Leurs designs originaux en or 10k, 14k, 18k, 19k, Platine, Perle, Diamant canadien, Pierres � nes ou de couleur font gage de qualité et d’originalité.

Tech Emotion est également l’unique distributeur au Québec pour la ligne de bijoux mode Italienne Amore Baci. Perles, Charms et Cristaux composent votre bijou selon votre humeur. Il distribue au Canada Charizma. Des bijoux aux lignes épurées utilisant à la base l’argent 925 et l’acier, arrivés directement d’Allemagne.

En plus d’être distributeur, Tech Emotion s’est bâti une solide réputation en création de bijoux sur mesure et a élargi sa gamme de service en o� rant la réparation de bijoux. Ce dernier volet de plus en plus en demande, fût un tel succès que 150 bijoutiers font maintenant appel à l’expertise de Tech Emotion. Plus de 50 000 réparations sont e� ectuées chaque année.

Que ce soit pour un service de réparation professionnel, pour la création d’un bijou sur demande pour votre clientèle ou pour devenir détaillant de Amore Baci, Charrizma ou pour la Collection Jean Langevin, Tech Emotion a la solution! [CJ]

Tech Emotion :

une perle rareAvec Tech Emotion, Jean Langevin se fait distributeur et créateur international

NOUVELLE

SECTION

XXX-XXX.CJ_frenchEditorial2.indd 62 10/25/11 2:10:16 PM

i n f o @ p i e r r e l a u r e n t . c o mFor details, write #127 on Free Info Page, page 88.

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JVC

64

JVC COLUMN

Even though police investigations are becoming more effective, the high cost of trials is sometimes a roadblock on the path to justiceBy John Lamont, JVC's DireCtor of Crime PreVention

JUSTICECOSTLY

XX-XX.CJ_JVC.indd 64 10/20/11 2:15:32 PM


JVC COLUMN

In the past twenty years DNA (acronym for deoxyribonucleic acid) has been one of greatest advances in police investigations. DNA is advancing all the time and has proven to be a “slam dunk” on many cases. It has

not only identified subjects involved in criminal activities, it has also been able to clear innocent people charged with some offences. When the DNA of a subject is found at the scene of a crime it can lessen the chances of taxpayers having to pay for a long drawn out trial in court.

On December 10th, 1983, the Toronto Star reported in an article written by Denise Harrington, how a simple court case came to cost Ontario tax payers more than $500,000 and not including the cost of the investigation before it got to court. The case involved the arrest of a gang of six men who had robbed three jewellery stores. There were blood samples left at the scene of one of the robberies yet DNA was not in existence at that time. It took just over a year for the case to be resolved. Each accused had a lawyer and all had the opportunity to examine the testimony of the victims and witnesses and every aspect of the police investigation. All were eventually found guilty.

A hefty biLL

Today that trial may cost millions. Should that be a factor? Should courts look at plea bargaining to prevent such cost even if it means a lighter sentence for the accused?

Earlier this year, two jewellery store robberies took place in Southern Ontario. They were violent robberies that involved several masked men, one armed with a handgun. Staff members were traumatized. In one situation, a security guard that had been hired by the store to prevent such robberies was forced to the floor and a gun pointed at his head. Video captured from the two locations assisted in connecting the two robberies together as the people responsible wore the same clothing.

In the second robbery, one of the bandits cut his arm as he reached through the broken showcase glass to steal the diamonds. A DNA profile was obtained which subsequently identified one of the subjects. One individual was arrested and his DNA was matched to the profile – an opened and closed case. That’s the value of DNA, yet what about the others involved? Why have there been no other arrests? These two robberies took place in smaller communities. Could it be cost? Are police officers hands tied by budget restraints and lack of personnel? Can the cost of prosecution be too high? Could there be a degree of frustration on the part of police.

RepeAt OffeNdeRsThe subject charged with these two offences, despite the seriousness of the charges and the strength of the case (based on DNA), was released on bail. In August of this year it is alleged the same individual went to a flea market in St Catherines with another male. Armed with a handgun he tried to rob a jeweller who had a display at the market. A struggle ensued and the jeweller was shot. Fortunately, he was not killed. Bullet fragments also injured other customers. Citizens in the area jumped the subject and held him for police. His accomplice got away.

There are many hardworking police officers all across Canada that dedicate themselves

to protecting the public. They need our support and all the help we can give them through our networking and sharing of information. The courts are another issue. Perhaps we as an industry must be more vocal in some of these cases. Perhaps JVC's next focus should be towards educating crown attorneys about the complexity and organized crime element in many jewellery store robberies. By organized crime we not only mean the traditional groups (i.e. mafia), we also mean street gangs or where three or more people are involved in a crime. The Criminal Code has a specific section dedicated to being a member of an organized gang and therefore the penalties for being involved in an "organized gang" crime are generally greater. [CJ]

We all have watched countless police TV programs where the crime is solved by the use of DNA evidence. These programs have big budgets. In real life the costs of investigations and the trials of criminals can be prohibitive. John Lamont, JVC's Director of Crime Prevention, believes that DNA and networking have changed the way police solve

crimes and bring criminals to justice. However, the costs of justice are still high. In the first of two columns, John explains the impact DNA has had on crime and the justice system and points to the work that still needs to be done.

— Phyllis Richard, Executive Director, Jewellers Vigilance Canada (JVC).

“Today a trial may

cost millions. Should

courts look at plea

bargaining to prevent

such cost?”

XX-XX.CJ_JVC.indd 65 10/20/11 2:15:39 PM

Experience i;s certainly at the core of any successful business venture. � eories can be learned at business schools yet nothing compares to “getting your feet wet,” living the challenges and realities of an

industry on a daily basis.

Moniruz Zaman had the opportunity to do just that and he embraced it. He started learning about the bullion business at an early age with his elder brother, Baduiz Zaman, who was considered one of Singapore’s most respected and biggest bullion dealers. With the company’s expansion, Moniruz Zaman was able to apply that knowledge in places such as Dubai, London and New York. “Whenever my brother’s company expanded, I had a new opportunity to learn.� e lessons were well learned. So much so that he � nally reached a point where he realized it was time to start his own business. He chose Canada to open � e Bullion Mart. It was 2001 and his o� ce consisted of no more than a desk and a wealth of experience accumulated throughout the years.

Moniruz Zaman applied his international experience and turned � e Bullion Mart into a thriving company

Knowledgeis

goldenBY CARLOS WEIGLE

Moniruz Zaman at his o� ce in downtown Toronto.


companyprofi le | thebullionmart

XXX-XXX.CJ_CompanyProfile4.indd 66 10/21/11 1:44:34 PM

“Learning is a treasure which accompanies its owner everywhere.”

-Ancient chinese Proverb

Providing Jewellers With the Foundation to Succeed

For more than 23 years, Jewellers vigilance

canada has served as a source of support and

education for jewellers throughout canada.

A non-profit overseen by leading industry

professionals, we’ve made it our mission

to provide our members with the education

needed to prevent crime, serve as a key

resource for government agencies, and

set industry standards that aid in building

consumer confidence in the jewellery

products they buy.

Sign up now atwww.jewellerycrimecanada.ca

or call 1-800-636-9536

Jewellers Vigilance Canada

An independent, non-profit association to advance ethical practices within the canadian jewellery industry.

c r i m e P r e v e n t i o n • r e s o u r c e P r o t e c t i o n • s A F e t y A w A r e n e s s

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A TOUCH OF BOLD

Experience is crucial, of course, yet you also need to be brave enough to venture into unchartered territories if you want to grow. � at is how, aside from buying and selling gold and other precious metals, Zaman went into re� ning, an area his brother hadn’t explored. � e move was certainly a successful one as re� ning now accounts for approximately 25 per cent of Zaman’s total revenue.

“Re� ning is not something I got into when I started my company; it actually took me a while to learn it,” he admits. In terms of trading, he comes from the banking and � nancial sector, so “I used what I learned there plus what my brother taught me.” He also stayed awake many a sleepless night to monitor the New York markets. Fortunately he doesn’t have to do that anymore, now that he is in its same time zone.

� e entrepreneur considers himself a reliable analyst, o� en consulted about the volatile gold and precious metals markets. His company deals with small investors yet also provides large amounts of gold to industrial companies. In addition, customers rely on his secure facilities to keep millions of dollar’s worth of gold.

Gold is a topic Zaman knows inside out. Yet the changes he’s seen in that market in the last ten years are nothing short of remarkable. “It was also a buying market back then, of course,” he says. “However, at that time the volume of transactions was at a level one; today I’d say it’s at a level nine,” he concludes.

� at level of activity has obviously impacted his business and made it grow. What started as a 200-square feet o� ce turned into a 600–sq. � . one and, just

a few months ago, into a 3,000-sq. � . one. Even though � e Bullion Mart is still located in the same building where it started, in an area of downtown Toronto traditionally populated by the jewellery industry, it’s nothing like the original company. � ese days it houses 15 employees, as well as some impressive high-tech machinery. One of them is an XRF machine (a spectrometer), capable of analyzing any piece of metal in 60 seconds or so and lists every component in it.

SILVER OR GOLD?

Where is gold heading to? � at’s probably one of the questions Zaman gets more o� en. “Some analysts predict it will reach $3,500, some even $5,000 an ounce. I know it’s going to hit $2,000 at any time now.” � e truth is, lately, changes in prices have been very sudden and drastic at the same time. “If you go back ten or even � ve years back, it would take years for the price of gold to � uctuate $100; nowadays it can go up and down that amount within one day,” he explains. “It’s very scary for the market, and that’s one of the reasons many small traders are getting kicked out and many big traders are coming into the business.” Zaman believes that, in spite of recent price setbacks, gold will continue to be on the rise until the world economy gets back on track. In other words, it might take a while…

In the meantime, silver has been doing very well, thank you. Zaman sees its growing potential, especially when considering its industrial use. “China needs a lot of silver to build solar panels and, unlike gold, that silver is not coming back to the market,” he explains. “In today’s market, silver is at $32 yet it can reach $150 or $200 anytime. Within a � ve-year period, investors can get 140 per cent return with gold while getting 300 per cent with silver.”

Knowledge, experience, service and a touch of boldness are all great ingredients to create a thriving business venture. Moniruz Zaman and � e Bullion Mart can check all those boxes and look ahead to years of growth. [CJ]

Gold melting at the Bullion Mart


companyprofi le | thebullionmart

XXX-XXX.CJ_CompanyProfile4.indd 68 10/21/11 1:45:17 PM

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CJ_ad.indd 1 10/20/11 11:55:01 AM

CAD and CAM so� ware are helping jewellers be more competitive and more imaginative at the same timeBY E. Z. GULER-TUCK


computer-assisteddesign

R designevolution

From the early days of casting and carving, straight through the mass production era of the Industrial Revolution, over the years, how we engineer things, from clothing to industrial buildings, has radically changed with the use of so� ware technology. In the last two decades, jewellery design is one of the many sectors that has taken a 3D turn into the world of Computer –Aided Design (CAD), as well

as Computer-Aided Manufacturing (CAM), and many retailers are � nding that this type of so� ware is saving them time, money and hassle.

XXX-XXX.CJ_Computer-Aided_Design2.indd 70 10/21/11 1:43:34 PM

71 W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M | N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 1 CJW W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O MW W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 1W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 1W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M 71 71 W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M | N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 1 CJ


design“� ese days, as it is with many cra� s, it is di� cult to � nd hand jewellers that can work a piece of metal into a beautiful piece of jewellery. Even if one did have access to an experienced and good jeweller, the time required to make a piece of jewellery would not be acceptable to today’s buying clientele who needed their piece yesterday,” says Diana Metzen of 123 Proto, a full CAD/CAM-capable jewellery service bureau.

“Custom” is the name of the game and nowadays, clients want to be more engaged in the design process. With CAD, a photorealistic printout of their piece to sign o� on helps avoid creative misunderstandings down the road. � is involvement also enhances the customer experience, increasing the emotional attachment to the jewellery, which the customer has helped design rather than just pick out. CAD/CAM allows for the rapid creation of these designs and their physical prototypes, which satis� es the customer’s need for “on-demand.”

CAD FOR KEEPS

“By creating virtual models of jewellery on the computer, jewellers can easily see the real appearance of their designs at a desired magni� cation. � ey can also resize and modify their designs as needed,” says John Schindler, M.Sc., P.Eng., President of Schindler Technologies Corporation - a provider of CAD/CAM systems, support, training and services.

� e adoption of CAD to a retailer’s business model means a shi� in gears toward the rapid production of unusual, one-of-a-kind pieces; easy adaptation to the most current fashion trends; lower shipping costs; neat and tidy stock rooms no longer over� owing with umpteen dozen di� erent styles and models; less capital required to maintain a showroom; and no more he� y insurance premiums for all those pieces. It’s a win-win, where those who ride the technology wave prosper, while those who stick to their guns risk getting le� behind.

COMPARE SOFTWARE

Jewellers recognize that there are various types of so� ware to consider when assessing what will work best for their business. Matrix, ArtCAM JewelSmith, Digital GoldSmith, 3Design Jewel, JewelCad, RhinoGold, RhinoJewel and CounterSketch are some of the top contenders in the market. “Years ago we started o� with a program called Digital GoldSmith, where our client could bring in their ring, photograph it, add some stones to it and make a matching wedding ring,” explains Shele Letwin of GV Design Canada Inc., the Canadian authorized dealer for GemVision — the international CAD/CAM pioneer that launched the Matrix 3D so� ware

and provides training for the jewellery industry in North America. “We said ‘we want something speci� c to our industry.’ We decided to partner up with Rhino. It took us a year to develop Matrix,” Letwin continues.

McNeel North America manufactures Rhino, a free-form computer modeller that is used as the base for elaborate so� ware such as Matrix, RhinoGold and RhinoJewel. “Rhino supplies the core and Matrix supplies the smarts [plug-ins] – they use our model and make it ‘speak jewellery.’ � at’s important for jewellers because they’re not computer geeks. Matrix wraps it up and makes it simple,” notes Scott Davidson of McNeel North America. When asked why certain so� ware is favoured over others, Davidson answers, “Matrix is best for retailers who produce in large volumes. RhinoGold is a little less sophisticated and e� cient on � ndings, however allows for more � exibility in design.”

Speaking of a� ordable and easy-to-use, a� er developing Matrix with Rhino, GemVision launched CounterSketch for Stuller, a program that would help retailers “ease into CAD,” as Shele Letwin puts it. “CounterSketch is library-based, so the jeweller doesn’t have to create something from scratch. � ey can just pitch something from the library…size it to � t their hand, adjust to � t their stone sizes, render it, just like in Matrix, in the di� erent


hotholidaypickspickspicksholidaypicksholidayhotholidayhotholidayholidaypickspickshot picksholidayhot


metal colours, and it’ll do a quote right there on the spot,” Letwin explains. As CAD so� ware continues to develop, the demands of the industry will no doubt lead to the development of more user-friendly plug-ins, features and a� ordable programs, allowing more time to “sell, sell, sell.” “CAD is going to be here for a long time and is one of the best steps for anyone who wants to help their business grow,” emphasizes Michael Myslicki, CAD/CAM Jewellery Designer and Division Manager at Ready Mounts, a provider of casting, semi-� nished and � nished mounts.

While the abundance of more easy-to-use software is definitely on the rise, there are still retailers that do not put the necessary time

into training and setting up their in-house CAD/CAM capabilities. “Retailers are purchasing the

software and the prototyping machines only to have them gather dust in the

corner somewhere. In reality, you need about three months of good exposure and usage of the software to [be]…able to use it with speed when you are working with a client sitting right next to you,” stresses Diana Metzen. That is why there are service bureaus that offer complete CAD/

CAM services to provide jewellers with peace-of-mind.

THE GOOD OLD DAYS

Now that retailers and even more designers have started to prefer using CAD software, whether it be to try different sizes and materials, or expand upon their original sketches, there is still a large school of artisans who believe that the beauty of each wearable work-of-art is determined by the time and creative imagination that goes into drawing, carving and setting each material and stone. While the industry is evolving through this techno-revolution, there is still a need for craftsmen to advance the trade. “When the models are still predominantly made by hand and taken off a rubber mold, you still need a guy who can carve out a wedding band in 20 minutes. The goldsmith out there is finally realizing that no one is losing their job if companies are buying [CAD software] and using it,” states Shele Letwin.

TRENDS FOR TOMORROW

Recent trends in CAD have brought a whole new meaning to custom design, “through the years we have seen popular features such as adding � ngerprints of loved ones to designs. You could never do this by hand, which is why CAD is perfect for that. Also popular is to add your company’s trademark anywhere on the object,” details Michael Myslicki.

More designer-friendly plug-ins for Matrix seem to be prevalent with technologies such as T-Splines. “Designers have not gotten on board [with CAD], since their whole process of creating is sitting on the bench and carving a wax or drawing with a pencil. Incorporating T-Splines into the program [will make it] so� er with more � owing things, more pieces of art, and that’s what jewellery is supposed to be,” Shele Letwin points out.

� e replacement of actual jewellery pieces with their 3D model counterparts is projected to downsize the inventory of many showrooms. Diana Metzen foresees that, “instead of carrying an inventory of pieces, stores would carry an inventory of easily accessible 3D realistic renderings.” Today, companies such as Stuller and Ready Mounts already provide retailers with 3D prototypes to showcase in their stores.

In the end, when the � nal product is glistening in the showroom lights, the customer is beaming from ear-to-ear, and the jeweller is admiring that perfect little piece of heaven, each step that went into engineering this work-of-art continues to draw attention to, and demonstrate a passion for the jewellery industry, what it stands for, and the people who have brought it to where it is today. [CJ]




1-800-221-4435 | [email protected] | www.polygon.net

Jewellery ∙ Diamonds ∙ Coloured Stones ∙ Watches ∙ Pearls ∙ Gold & Precious Metals ∙ Coins ∙ Estate Pieces and more!

Arthur Gordon, owner of JewelSmiths jewellery stores, with two locations in Oklahoma City, Oklahoma, is a 3rd generation bench jeweller and custom designer. JewelSmiths features handmade jewellery expertise in original, classic or contemporary styling.

Specializing exclusively in platinum and gold, they are also known as the "Jeweller's Jeweller" for creating high-end custom jewellery which is sold in stores nationwide. Their award winning jewellery design team routinely creates custom jewellery made to order.

In addition to their custom pieces, JewelSmiths also features a wide range of luxury and designer jewellery and watches including Galatea, Simon G, Ashi and Ball watches.

"Polygon has become an invaluable part of the way I do business. I have been a member for over 16 years now and have watched the network evolve into what it has become today.

Polygon is an online community of people actively involved in the jewellery industry who have a keen interest in sharing and gaining knowledge that helps them in their day to day business activities and decisions.

I grew up in the jewellery trade. Business today is fast paced and requires different skills than it did in previous years. It is therefore a must that every jewellery business owner keep abreast of the trends, industry happenings and news, pricing and other information that can affect the business decisions we all make on a daily basis. I own two full service jewellery stores and cannot imagine running them without access to the knowledge I get from Polygon.

Polygon's Conclaves - held in different locations every year - allow members to meet face to face and participate in seminars featuring speakers on the latest trends and topics that are ultra important in our industry. I would encourage all members to attend Conclaves.

For me, Polygon is all about jewellers helping jewellers and gaining insights from some very wise individuals that collectively have weaved the fabric of the jewellry industry today."

Polygon Featured MemberMeet Arthur Gordon.

Arthur comes from a long line of jewellers. His grandfather settled in Oklahoma before Oklahoma was even an official state, and other relatives of his were importing diamonds into the United States as early as 1878.Visit JewelSmiths at: www.jewelsmiths.net Email: [email protected]

CJ_ad.indd 1 10/20/11 11:57:06 AM


designerprofile | clairevessot

Someone bent down one day and whispered in her ear, “Stay close to beauty.” Since that day, the Montreal native, Claire Vessot has

been inspired by that idea throughout her work, designing fashion and fine jewellery. Today, Vessot is the sole designer for ELLE Jewelry Collections, a jewellery line distributed worldwide through Brands 88 Inc., an affiliate of PAJ Group, one of the world’s largest sterling silver suppliers since 1976.

In 1995, Vessot formed her own company, which provided a design service to numerous clients, including Montreal-based Bijoux Continental. PAJ Group acquired Bijoux in 1998, and this was how she first met and joined the company.

Passion for silver

Revealing a fierce passion for sterling silver, with 18 Industry Design Awards behind her, Vessot’s designs begin with layers of sketching and often take her all the way to clay molding, when developing a sculptural ELLE theme of bold dimensions.

“Until recently, silver seemed to take a back seat to other precious metals,” explains Vessot on her metal choice. “I have always believed in sterling silver and saw it as a way to create pieces with fierce passion and expression, jewellery that can carry a look and has value to back it up. Its properties allow me to extend fine treatments such as back plates, hidden connections, softer looks or knife edges, all with a flawless finish and a rich luxurious feel,” she says. “I love the way it takes on the feel of the wearer. Fine sterling has a look of its own. It’s very personal, and silver is an experience.” Based on the top trends from fashion forecasters, Vessot creates her collections each season, keeping textures, colours and silhouettes as her inspiration. Staying close to beauty is a philosophy Vessot has been faithful to. Yet, what defines beauty in jewellery? “It’s more of a state of mind, it’s the beauty of the process,” she carefully explains. “The peace and happiness during the creative process, some great music playing while sketching, that fantastic feeling when I’m onto something new – all these things that I hope translate somehow into the finished piece.” How can she tell when she actually attained beauty? “It’s something that creates a good feeling.”

BEAUTYis in the details

ELLE Jewelry’s designer, Claire Vessot, believes in finding something special in the smallest aspects of everyday lifeBY BONNIE SIEGLER

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designerprofile | clairevessot

Add A little splAsh

Even though designers can display a wide range of styles in their work, they usually have one they’re drawn to and that somehow defines them. “My personal taste is ever-changing, yet I do like a little splash mixed into something very simple,” admits Vessot. “Confident, sleek styling would describe it – that’s an irresistible combination for me.”

Each piece of ELLE jewellery has a genuine signature ruby trademark, which poignantly symbolizes a woman’s inner strength and beauty – something the colour red has displayed for centuries. “The mysterious location of this ruby in square motif changes with every piece,” says Vessot. “We could relate the stone meaning gathered from many different cultures and throughout history to discover a multitude of interpretations. What is important, however, is that a vivacious ruby-red colour is associated with fire, passion and luck. These are empowering sentiments. The importance of the ruby is beyond the stone itself.” Other gems such as quartz, opaques and semi-precious stones are also used in Vessot’s pieces.

While the exact meaning of the designer’s strategically placed ruby is richly abundant and open for interpretation with the wearer, she is quite clear on her evolving jewellery designs over the years: “My ELLE designs have become less geometric, while maintaining ease, softness and displaying a little more playfulness.”

For her “Latitude” cuff, for instance, Vessot had an “open feel” in mind “to address the evidence of lace being present as indicated with seasonal

fabrics. I wanted a non-traditional approach, lightweight yet not delicate, so I created a weave and band approach to lace.” Admittedly, this cuff is one of Vessot’s ELLE favourites.

inspiring trAvels

Vessot has designed pieces for both fine and fashion jewellery and says the major differences between the two kinds are in the details: “Fine or hidden connections, weights, settings and the degree of refinement possible – it’s all about details, not to mention price and lifespan. The similarities are the statements or the feeling being expressed.” A constant theme though is where she draws her inspiration from. “Often with travel,” she reveals. “I find a global perspective on what is important, much like viewing something obvious through a mirror and seeing it differently, as if for the first time.”

Vessot also works closely with ELLE Paris, which offers an extensive forecast of Europe’s fashions. “The design process is intangible, yet rich and true inspiration is a feeling that comes with impetus, evolves, and I just know I’m onto something good,” she explains.

For the winter and spring seasons, the designer says she features “darks with pops of pure light, translated into a very special collection entitled ‘ELLE by Vessot Limited Edition series’.” Regardless of seasonal trends, she hopes ELLE customers take advantage of her designs to express their own individuality. “This woman is someone who is aware of herself and what she represents – an independent, style-conscious and value-savvy woman.” She also has a talent for finding beauty in the smallest things, just like Vessot. [CJ]

From left to right: Silver rhodium “leopard relief ” corset cuff featured in the all new “ELLE by Vessot” Limited Edition series.“Harmony” gentle colour palette statement earrings with cascades of tonal pink shell and rose quartz to complement the pinched lozenge-like links of glossy sterling silver.“Reflections” earrings. Detailed ‘kaleidoscope’ motif designed for highest sterling silver drama.

XXX-XXX.CJ_DesignerProfile.indd 76 10/20/11 10:21:35 AM

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showcaseA D V E R T I S I N G

For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].

78 CJ N o v e m b e r 2 0 1 1 | w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m

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55 queen st e #1100 toronto, on m5c1r6 tel: 1-800-693-2898

We are wholesalers of sterling silverjewellery. Our selection is 10000+designs and growing. We only carrythe highest quality and craftsmanship.

Our unique designs and variety make itpossible for any business to carry ourproducts while maintaining the store theme.products while maintaining the store theme.

We are wholesale only and not opento the public.

High quality Alarm clocks

For more models & colorsCatalogue available on request

Swiss1400 Sauve O. #227 Montreal . Qc . H4N 1C5

Tel.:514.332.9298 Fax: 514.332.4158www.bandacanada.com [email protected]

XXX-XXX.CJ_Showcase-Market.indd 78 10/20/11 4:23:04 PM

A D V E R T I S I N G

showcase For more information on how to advertise in the classifi ed section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].

j o h n ’ sj o h n ’ sj o h n ’ sj o h n ’ sj o h n ’ sj o h n ’ sw h o l e s a l ew h o l e s a l ew h o l e s a l ej e w e l r y l t dj e w e l r y l t dj e w e l r y l t d

John’sWHOLESALE JEWELRY LTD

1-877-80-JOHNSwww.johnswholesale.ca [email protected]

Brand new volumes 20 & 21 catalogues just

released

703-27 Queen St. E., Toronto, ON, M5C2M6416.368.2690 [email protected]

catalogue available upon request

MCD PEARL IMPORTSa selection of strands, loose pearls and pearl jewellery

MCD Pearls Showcase 1/20/11 5:08 PM Page 1

CREATIVE GEMS Inc.Serving the Industry Since 1992

Precious, Semi-precious, Loose Gemstones, Diamonds and all kinds of Beads

Now CarryingColoured Diamonds

21 Dundas Sq., Suite 712, Toronto, ON Canada M5B 1B7Tel: 647-430-8969 • Fax: 647-439-0782 • Cell: 416-319-3378

e-mail: [email protected] • website: www.mittaljewels.com

Factory: B-125, Sethi Colony, Jaipur, India

Creative Gems layout 4/28/11 5:39 PM Page 1

79 W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M | N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 1 CJ



For more information on how to advertise in the classifi ed section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].


Great Retailers Need Great Charms

™

Thousands of charms in silver and gold.Visit: RembrandtCharms.com/referrals


For more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected]

Since 1895

For over 100 years, Hagertyhas carried on a traditionof excellence.

The Jewellers Choice

Today, Hagerty is a worldleader in the care of preciousmetals and the popular choiceamong Canadian Jewellers.

Hagerty Distributors

H&W Perrin416-422-4600

Burney Giftware416-736-9990

Prestige Pak Inc.514-387-8888

Reliable Watch / Jean Michel514-866-1095

Habsons Jewellery Supply604-708-9700

www.hagertycanada.ca

MBDB50001CT - 18KVS2-S11

$560Machine

Set

MCDB50201.30CT - 18K

VS2-S11$675

MachineSet

MCDB50803CT - 14KVS2-S11

$1350

MBDB50151.40CT - 18K

VS2-S11$750LCDB5025

1CT - 18KVS2-S11

$515 LCDB50501.50CT - 14K

VS2-S11$735

Fits Sub& GMT

18KY - $325SS - $100

Inserts$25

LBDB50151CT - 18KVS2-S11

$550

LCDB50702CT - 14KVS2-S11

$935LDBD5005.70CT - 18K

VS2-S11$415

Your Headquarters For All Rolex Aftermarket Accessories

We Stock ManyDifferent Styles And Sizes Of Aftermarket Watchbands, Including SS, Two Tone, 14K And 18k All Gold Watchbands.

To

p QualiTy • l

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elivery

888.699.8947F.S. ENTERPRISEwww.fsenterprise.com

RLPD515 18K 1.85ct $2700

RMPD500 18KY $2850

RMJ1010 SS $100

RLJ2012 18K/SS $400 Two Tone

RLO3025 18K/SS $425 Two Tone

RMJ1002 18K/SS

$575 Two Tone

RMO4055R

18K/SS

Rose Gold

$600

We Also Stock Date, Mid-size, And No Date Diamond Bezels.

F.S. Enterprise is Not Affiliated with Rolex Watch, U.S.A., Inc. Rolex is a Registered Trademark of Rolex, U.S.A., Inc.

Price based on $1000-$1100 Gold

HOTSELLER

HOTSELLER

1059Findco_DZ 1 3/16/10 1:49:00 PMJohn’s

WHOLESALE JEWELRY LTD

Bello e ItalianoBello e ItalianoBello e ItalianoE x c l u s i v e l y a t

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S E P T E M B E R / O C T O B E R 2 0 1 1 – B U Y E R S ’ G U I D E | W W W . C A N A D I A N J E W E L L E R . C O M162

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showcaseFor more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected]

pure beautyhas a name...

Exclusively available in Canada through

J.W. HISTED DIAMONDS LTD.Vancouver, B.C.1-800-663-1458

Online inventory

www.jwdiamonds.ca

All NORDIC FIRE Diamonds are GIA Certified for accurate grading.

J.W. Histead showcase ad:Layout 1 3/4/09 1:41 PM Page 1

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Tel: (416) 363-2111

Toll Free: 1-866-211-7778www.imperialcolordiamonds.com

[email protected]

Fax: (416) 363-1349

Specializing in Natural Fancy Color Diamonds & Fine Jewellery!

Single Natural Fancy Color Stones from .50 carat andup in and more (All certified G.I.A)Yellow, Pink, Blue, Green

55 Queen Street East, Suite 1209, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5C 1R6

163

160_167 CJ_Showcase_Market.indd 163 8/23/11 3:01:13 PMXXX-XXX.CJ_Showcase-Market.indd 80 10/20/11 4:24:17 PM


CJ_ad.indd 1 10/24/11 2:59:05 PM


For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].


Sport Class XXL Blackout

ChronographMatte black ceramicSapphire crystalSwiss Made

Gcwatches.com

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27 Queen St, East, Suite 1100, Toronto, Ontario M5C 2M6T: 416.955.9415 • Toll Free: 800.216.0899 • F: 416.955.9621www.midasjewelryinc.ca • Email: [email protected]

703-27 Queen St. E., Toronto, ON, M5C2M6416.368.2690 [email protected]

catalogue available upon request

MCD PEARL IMPORTSa selection of strands, loose pearls and pearl jewellery

MCD Pearls Showcase 1/20/11 5:08 PM Page 1

S e p t e m b e r / O c t O b e r 2 0 1 1 – b u y e r S ’ G u i d e | w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m160

160_167 CJ_Showcase_Market.indd 160 8/23/11 2:58:56 PM

Jewelry Sales Reps. WantedCanadian Distributorship and

Authorized Retail Locations Available

pure beautyhas a name...

Exclusively available in Canada through

J.W. HISTED DIAMONDS LTD.Vancouver, B.C.1-800-663-1458

Online inventory

www.jwdiamonds.ca

All NORDIC FIRE Diamonds are GIA Certified for accurate grading.

J.W. Histead showcase ad:Layout 1 3/4/09 1:41 PM Page 1



showcase For more information on how to advertise in the classifi ed section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].



marketplace For more information on how to advertise in the classifi ed section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].

from as low asComplete System $125/month

[email protected] us how ACE Webstore can get you onlineCall for your live online Demo

Track commissions, special orders & layawaysIntegrate with Accounting software Built in credit/ debit processingPrint repair bags & Labels for jewelleryCreate your own gift cards

• GOLD• YELLOW• WHITE• PINK• GREEN• STERLING• BRONZE

• PALLADIUM• PLATINUM• SILVADIUM• S-STEEL• PRESET• MOLDS• ALLOYS

ALLOYCOINTERNATIONAL INC

CALL TOLL FREE: 1-888-475-5384Phone: 514-845-5384 • [email protected] • www.alloyco.com

55 Mont Royal W., suite 600, Montreal, Quebec, Canada, H2T 2S6

Package 883: Beautiful 14kt. Gold “Jewels by Anita” Earrings, available in a range of gemstones & styles.

Starting at $135-300/pr.(As show here 2 pairs $400)

Package 885: 14kt. gold Sapphire & Tanzanite Earrings, Pendant & Bracelet a.Yellow & white Sapphire (4 cts) Earrings, b. Matching Pendant (2.5cts), c.Tanzanite and white sapphire earrings (3cts) d. Matching Pendant (1.5cts) Pendant

Any Earring $200/pr. Any Pendant $100/pc.

Matching Bracelets available: $150/ea.)

a. c.

All 4 pairs $400(Your choice of any Earrings $120/pr.)

Package 893: 14kt. Gold gemstone briolette earrings: a. Green amethyst and tourmaline (4mm), b. Amethyst earrings, c. Black spinel and garnet (5mm), d. Quartz and Citrine (4mm).

a. b. c.

d.

For more Products visit our website atwww.bbjw.com • [email protected] • 1-800-661-4871

YOUR SATISFACTION IS GUARANTEED! Offer is valid while quantities last. ORDER NOW! Please order by package NO’S.

Looking for Affordability and Elegance? Why not try the new “Jewels by Anita” collection from Best Bargains? Products from this new mid-range line have been

featured in Jewellery Business and Canadian Jeweller magazines.

Best Bargains

21 Dundas SQ., Suite 306, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 CANADATel: 416-214-2582 Fax: 416-214-4626

SHOW DATE BOOTH VENUE1. New York Oct 23-25/11 #1361 Jacob Javits Convention Center2. Chicago Oct 30-Nov01/11 #224 McCormick Place Convention Center

STEWART’S HOROLOGYREPAIR & RESTORATION

• QUALITY service & attention to detail

• Large inventory of parts & access to all major supply houses

• Restoration of pocket watches

2741 Portage Avenue, Winnipeg, MB R3J 0R2, CanadaTel: (204) 789-9620 Email: [email protected]

2741 Portage Avenue, Winnipeg, MB R3J 0R2, Canada

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A D V E R T I S I N GFor more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].

Dynamic Gems Group IncWholesale Diamonds and Jewellery

Sam SalehiPresident

www.dynamicgems.com

27 Queen Street East #806 Toronto, Ontario, M5C 2M6Tel: (416) 777 0010 • (416) 306 0705Fax: (416) 777 0021 • Cell: (416) 566 5579Email: [email protected]

Refining - Assaying - Trading

Let Us Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You RefineTel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371

Actual size 3.9" by 2.0"

Precious metal specialists and refiners of gold and platinum jewellery scrap

Web:www.refinegold.ca E-mail: [email protected] 359 Canarctic Drive,Downsview, Ontario, M3J 2P9

Check for our refining specials and on line prices At: www.refinegold.caand www.goldrefiner.ca

Refine-All Metals Ltd.

Dealers and refiners of Precious Metal Scrap

Let Us EarnYour Confidence. Call us Before You Refine 21 Dundas Sqaure, Suite 311, Toronto, Ontario, M5B 1B7

CNC Gold Refining Inc

Toll Free: 877-465 3497

9 9 9 9

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While You Wait-Immediate Settlements

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Check our State of the art Jewellery AlloysCheck Our Site for the Up-to-Date Buy and Sale Prices

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DESIGNTO YOUROWNWISHESALLPRINTINGSTEPSINCLUDED

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Studio Publicity ad Final May 5th.indd 1 5/5/09 7:06:44 PM

®

ArmandorEnterprises Inc.New Tel: 416.642.0280New Fax: 416.642.0281New Email: [email protected] Website: www.akbgold.comNew Address: 107 Church St. Unit B1 Toronto, Ontario M5C 2G5

New Locationin the heart of

Downtown Toronto!Now O�ering

Casting Services

CanadianJeweller.indt 1 7/15/09 12:13:12 PM

marketplace

If You’re Reading It, You Know It Works!

Canadian Jeweller Showcase & Marketplace

Call: 1.888.358.8186 | Marsha Miller, ext. [email protected]





Right in time for Christmas!CLOSE-OUT OFFER! All Jewellery at 80 to 85% OFF! retail value. Everything must go.No reasonable offer refused. Some items may cost less than gold/silver value by weight.

10/14 Kt Gold Jewellery from $4.Silver jewellery from $0.79/gm.

Genuine Pearl & Beads from 0.99/St.Gemstones Packages from $6/pack.

Order sample package for $250 and receive goods worth

more than $1250 retail value+ free gift worth $50

AffordABle creAtionS21 dundas Square, #320toronto, on M5B 1B7, canadaPh/fax: 416-551-3690, cell: 416-836-1350

our new address:#1305, 13th floor, railway Plaza39 chatham rd. t.S.t., Hong Kong

email: [email protected]

Insurance for Customers Jewellery

cjFebMar10_CJB_Ad_rev.indd 1 1/29/10 3:14:36 PM

Chipped, burnt or broken? You know they’re hidden somewhere. . . in your safe or at the back of your drawer.

Our team of master diamond cutters and polishers can recut, re-polish and repair all your chipped, burnt and broken diamonds - not all damage is beyond repair.

We aim for AGS Ideal® Cut (the “Triple Zero”) wherever the diamonds allow. In addition to advanced planning and precision design, light performance on each diamond is assessed using AGS Performance Grading Software®.

EASTERN CANADA Evert P. Botha [email protected] (306) 763 3388 WESTERN CANADA Doug Zmurchock [email protected] (780) 905 3684www.embeediatech.ca | www.facebook.com/embeediamonds

Refining - Assaying - Trading

Let Us Earn Your Confidence-Call Us Before You RefineTel: (416)7366052 Fax:(416)7364334 Toll Free:1-800-785-2371

Actual size 3.9" by 2.0"

Precious metal specialists and refiners of gold and platinum jewellery scrap

Web:www.refinegold.ca E-mail: [email protected] 359 Canarctic Drive,Downsview, Ontario, M3J 2P9

Check for our refining specials and on line prices At: www.refinegold.caand www.goldrefiner.ca

Refine-All Metals Ltd.

Dealers and refiners of Precious Metal Scrap

Let Us EarnYour Confidence. Call us Before You Refine 21 Dundas Sqaure, Suite 311, Toronto, Ontario, M5B 1B7

CNC Gold Refining Inc

Toll Free: 877-465 3497

9 9 9 9

E-mail:[email protected] Web: www.goldrefining.caTel: 416-642 3600 Fax:416-642 3500

While You Wait-Immediate Settlements

www.goldrefining.ca

Check our State of the art Jewellery AlloysCheck Our Site for the Up-to-Date Buy and Sale Prices

At:





®




Casting Services

PRECIOUS METALS DEALEREXPRESS GOLD REFINING LTD.

ASSAYING • REFINING •• NO MINIMUM LOTS OR MINIMUM CHARGES• 4TH GENERATION EXPERIENCEIN PRECIOUS METALS TRADELET US EARN YOUR TRUSTWeb: www.xau.caTel: (416) 363-0584 • Fax: (416) 363-9633 • Toll Free: 1-888-401-111121 Dundas Square, Suite 401, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 Email:[email protected]

Project2:Express Gold Marketplace ad 2/25/09 3:11 PM Page 1

400 - 215 Victoria St, Toronto, ON M5B 1T9Phone: 416.363.0584 | Toll-Free: 1.888.401.1111


ExprEss Gold rEfininG ltd.YOUR PRECIOUS METALS DEALER

Express Gold Refining has acquired the latest Assaying technology to provide you with the fastest and most accurate results. We guarantee to settle your GOLD, SILVER, PLATINUM and DENTAL scrap in less than an 1 hour of receiving it. We will return to you gold bars, silver, platinum or buy your metal at the most competitive market prices.

Express Gold Refining is YOUR PRECIOUS METAL DEALER OF CHOICE.Please visit our website for the latest up-to-the minute prices in the Canadian Market.http://www.xau.ca

marketplaceA D V E R T I S I N G



FEATURING OUR MOST POPULAR COLLECTIONS

RED

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Krohn Industries, Inc.

Cohler Enterprises, Inc.

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SERVICES WE OFFERENGRAVING OF GOLD, METALS AND GLASS

PHOTO ENGRAVINGLASER SOLDERING

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VIEW OUR CATALOGUES ONLINE @w w w . M A R Y J E W E L L E R Y . c o m

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w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m | S e p t e m b e r / O c t O b e r 2 0 1 1 – b u y e r S ’ G u i d e CJ 167

YADIRA BARAHONACELL: 519-617-2468

LONDON, ONEMAIL: [email protected]

COLOMBIAN EMERALDS

DIRECT DISTRIBUTORFROM THE MINES

WHOLESALE

160_167 CJ_Showcase_Market.indd 167 8/26/11 8:43:55 AM




from as low asComplete System $125/month

[email protected] us how ACE Webstore can get you onlineCall for your live online Demo

Track commissions, special orders & layawaysIntegrate with Accounting software Built in credit/ debit processingPrint repair bags & Labels for jewelleryCreate your own gift cards

Insurance for Customers Jewellery

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• Finishing: 2 weeks turn around

• Print, Mill, Grow your CAD, STL files 2-3 days

• Casting Provided

• All jobs set under microscope

• Our jobs guaranteed

410 Chrislea Rd, Unit 9, Woodbridge, OntarioTel: 905-264-9976 • Toll Free: 1-866-264-9976

[email protected] • www.prestigemfg.ca

Since 1996

CUSTOM DESIGN & FINISHING

PRINT, MILL & GROW

SERVICE GUARANTEE


INYOURNAME

DESIGNTO YOUROWNWISHESALLPRINTINGSTEPSINCLUDED

1 - 8 0 0 6 6 1 - 4 4 1 0

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C A N A D AC A N A D A

F A X : 1 - 4 5 0 6 6 1 - 4 9 9 9

N OL O W E S T P R I C E S

J E W E L L E R Y R E P A I RE N V E L O P E

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Studio Publicity ad Final May 5th.indd 1 5/5/09 7:06:44 PM


CAD-CAM for JewellersCAD-CAM for JewellersCAD-CAM for JewellersCAD-CAM for JewellersCAD-CAM for JewellersCAD-CAM for JewellersSOFTWARESOFTWARESOFTWARESOFTWARESOFTWARESOFTWARE MACHINESMACHINESMACHINES TRAININGTRAININGTRAINING SUPPORTSUPPORTSUPPORT

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RolandSolidscape

SCHINDLER TECHNOLOGIES CORPORATIONwww.schindler.ca

[email protected]

905-927-1166

[email protected]

Schindler.indd 1 3/5/10 11:51:32 AM


marketplaceFor more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected]



authentic basic art

a.b.art watches are distributed in Canada by 10:10 Watches, for more information call 416-419-6039 or visit:

www.1010-watches.com

the Swiss way


Untitled-1 1 10/30/09 12:01:02 PM

Sam SalehiPresident

Dynamic Gems.indd 1 2/8/10 11:36:00 AM

Passport Appraisals • Estate Appraisals• Diamonds, Gem Grading and Identification •

Faster Turnaround

GEM SENSE INC.Accredited Appraisers-CJA


www.gemsensejewelleryappraisals.com21 Dundas Saquare, Suite 1508, Toronto, ON M5B1B7

Tel: 416.913-6320, Toll Free: 1-866-654-5531e-mail: [email protected]




marketplaceFor more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].

87 w w w . c a n a d i a n j e w e l l e r . c o m | N o v e m b e r 2 0 1 1 CJ

LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.

• Cutters of Rough Diamonds• Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes

• Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds

21 Dundas Square, Suite 805Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7Tel/Fax: (416) 368-6883

email: [email protected]

Lala Diamond PDF:Layout 1 12/10/08 6:52 PM Page 1

LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.\ Cutters of Rough Diamonds

\ Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes\ Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds

Over 20 Years [email protected]

Ramesh MistryTel: 416-368-6883

21 Dundas Square, Suite 805Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7

®




Casting Services












FEATURING OUR MOST POPULAR COLLECTIONS

RED

NU

LLA

ONE ROOF

IMPERIAL

Krohn Industries, Inc.

Cohler Enterprises, Inc.

STONES

FOIL BACKSSYNTHETICSGENUINESMARCASITESPEARLS/SEED PEARLSBEADS/BEAD STRANDSROSE CUT GARNETSCONCAVE CUT MYSTIC TOPAZONYX/TIGER EYERUBIES/SAPPHIRES/EMERALDSPERIDOT/BLUE TOPAZCAMEOSSWAROVSKI & SIGNITY STONES8 HEART CZ/9 HEART CZAND MORE...

JEWELLERY/FINDINGS/TOOLS/DISPLAYS

WEDDING BANDSTENNIS MOUNTSRING MOUNTSRINGS, CHARMSBRACELETS/BANGLES10K, 14K, 18K, PLATINUM &STERLING SILVER JEWELLERYCHAINSITALIAN JEWELLERYFINDINGS/METAL FINDINGSTITANIUM/TUNGSTEN/COBALT &STAINLESS STEEL JEWELLERYJEWELLERS TOOLSBOX & DISPLAYSAND MORE...

NEW

MARY JEWELLERY & LAPIDARY CO. LTD.and

MOUNT CENTRE JEWELLERY SUPPLY HOUSE

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Canada’s first premium Fashion Jewellery magazine

Great to take home

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Have EVER in-store to keep your customers inspired

FOR SALEJewellery store for sale, retiring after 35 years. Turnkey store, low overhead, no percentage rents, 950 square feet, 33 store shopping center with or without stock. Tsawwassen, BC, suburb of Vancouver. Tel.: 604-943-4941

FOR SALEPrime Jewellery location for sale in a major Ontario city outside Toronto. Great traffic location, lease, fixtures and leaseholds are for sale. Owner is retiring. Please inquire by email to: [email protected]

HELP WANTEDParis Jewellers is looking for highly motivated and professional individuals who love people and love jewellery to join our sales and management team. Competitive commission and bonus structure. We are hiring for all locations across Canada. Email your resume to [email protected] or fax (780) 930-1429

AGENTS/REPS WANTEDAre you looking for complementary lines? “Ice-Watch”, number one colour fashion watch in Europe and “Lotus” watches from Spain is looking for salesman in the Greater Toronto area, North-West Ontario area as well as the Maritimes. Please send your resume to Robert Forget at [email protected]


classifiedFor more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 888-358-8186 ext. 6117 or e-mail [email protected].


marketplaceFor more information on how to advertise in this section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden 514-381-5196, [email protected]



authentic basic art

a.b.art watches are distributed in Canada by 10:10 Watches, for more information call 416-419-6039 or visit:

www.1010-watches.com

the Swiss way


Untitled-1 1 10/30/09 12:01:02 PM

Sam SalehiPresident

Dynamic Gems.indd 1 2/8/10 11:36:00 AM

Passport Appraisals • Estate Appraisals• Diamonds, Gem Grading and Identification •

Faster Turnaround



www.gemsensejewelleryappraisals.com21 Dundas Saquare, Suite 1508, Toronto, ON M5B1B7

Tel: 416.913-6320, Toll Free: 1-866-654-5531e-mail: [email protected]



sectionhead

Fax Now to: 1-888-849-0155 or 416-703-6392 | or Mail card today to: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106, Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8

PAGE

088 GET FREE INFORMATION! SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, ABSOLUTELY FREE?…

on any product advertised in this issue

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5. Receive free info direct from as many advertisers as you like

CONNECT WITH… page write # CONNECT WITH… page write # 24 Gold Group 2 101Sapir 3 102Stuller 4-5 103Stuller 7 104Lili Diamonds 9 105Sequel Canada 11 106Jewelers Mutual 13 107Imperial Gems and Jewels 15 1081010 Watches 17 109Ready Mounts 19 110E.R.L. Diamonds 21 111Fantastic Fine Jewellery 23 112Rodania Canada 25 113Fantastic Fine Jewellery 29 114Lega Jewellery 31 116Jewelers Mutual 33 117The Bullion Mart 35 118TIG Group 37 119TIG Group 38-39 120Importex 41 121Rembrandt Charms 49 122Muehle-Glashuette Canada 51 123Mirage Creations 53 124Gee N’ Gee Importers 55 125GIA 57 126

Selling area of your store under 1,000 sq.ft. 1,001 - 3,000 sq.ft. 3,001 - 5,000 sq.ft. over 5,000 sq.ft. Approximate annual sales volume under $500,000 $500,000 - $1 million $1 million - $5 million $5 million - $10 million $10 million - $20 million over $20 million

Categories you personally manage Retailer Designer Gemologist Supplier Manufacturer Other _________________________________

Which category best describes your business classifi cation? Education Retailer Manufacturer Wholesaler Importer Designer Services (repair, appraisals, etc.) Other: ________________________________

Number of employees at your location 1-3 4-8 9-12 over 13

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Signature: __________________________________________ Date: _______________

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Address: _________________________________________________________________

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Phone: ______________________________ Fax: _______________________________

Email Address (optional): _____________________________________________________

2. Use this quick

Pierre Laurent Time Pieces 63 127Jewelers Vigilance Canada 67 128PH Design 57 129Hong Kong Trade 69 130Mediagrif 73 131Rodania Canada 75 132Embix Watch Importing Company 77 133Noble Gift Packaging 81 134Wengers 89 135Altanus Watches 14 140Lili Jewelry 14 141Di Donna 14 142Elle Jewelry Collection 14 143Gold, 24/7 16 144Ready Mounts Inc. 16 145GC XL-S 16 146Imperial Color Diamonds 16 147Importex 18 148Rembrandt Charms 18 149Stuller 18 150Polygon Virtual Inventory 18 151Elle Jewelry 91 153Mirage 92 154

Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine No, don’t send

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XXX.CJ_FaxBack.indd 88 10/21/11 10:32:28 AM

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lastword

This breathtaking 18k white gold, limited edition, pink

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BY Lorina owen

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CJ_ad.indd 1 10/20/11 10:22:20 AM

Mirage Creations Inc.221 Victoria Street, Lower Level, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5B 1V4

Local: (416) 366-9595 Toll Free: (877) BY MIRAGE Fax: (416) 366-9677www.miragecreations.com e-mail: [email protected]


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Documents

Canadian Jeweller Magazine - November 2011