Callaway the Color Connection Pub 1986

5/10/2018 Callaway the Color Connection Pub 1986

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f R O M A R f T A l l f R ' S P f R S P f C T I V f

J 0 A N C A l l A W A YW I T H I l l U S T R A T I O N ' S B Y J O A N N S T A B B


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Copyright 1986 by Joan S. Callaway. First edition. All rightsreserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in anyform or by any means now known or to be invented,electronic or mechanical, including photocopying. recordingor by any information storage or retrieval system withoutwritten permission from the author or publisher except forthe brief inclusion of quotations in a review.Printed in the United States of America byWINTERSPRING PRESS406 Second StreetDavis, California 95616(916) 753-2262

Book Design by Marilyn Judson.

Attention: This book is available at quantity discount withbulk purchase for educational use. For information, pleasewrite WinterSpring Press.Quotes from The Turning Point by Fritjof Capra, copyright 1981. Reprinted by permission of Simon & Shuster, Inc.Seasonal Color Harmonies and Key to Arrangement of ColorChart 1985. Reprinted by permission of Cheri Joerger.Quote from Henry Grethel reprinted by permission of HenryGretheLCover Design by Dunlavey Studio.Cover Photos by Ken Browning and Robert Jaffe.Typesetting by Graphic Gold, Davis, California.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data:Callaway, Joan S.

The Color Connection:From a Retailer's PerspectiveIncludes Index.1. Clothing and Fabric

." Beaurv

2. Marketing.Retailing andSalesmanship

1. Title


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Author's Notes .- How to Use This Book

Author's Notes- How to Use This BookThis book began as a training manual for the staffof my women's clothing shop. As Ianalyzed,digested and categorized the information that Iwished to include. it evolved into a book thatdearly discusses the seasonal color harmony. .theory, as well as its application to the women'sready-to-wear industry. I believe it can become auseful tool for anyone involved in women'sapparel, whether they be a consumer. buyer. salesassociate, or designer. The theory is applicable forchildren's and men's apparel. as well. and caneven be carried into the home em-ironment-furniture, dishes, sheets, wall coverings. draperies.etc.

In the process of compiling the information. Ibecame aware that, although the book shelves arefun of books on style, color. and fashion. none ofthem includes complete detailed style informationrelated to the seasonal harmony system for theconsumer, much less for the retailer and designer

'Ibis is a "choose your own ending' bookMuch of the information in Chapters 1 through 10will be useful to the Consumer. but is alsoessential to the understanding and application ofthe theory for the retail buyer, sales associate. anddesign student.

TIle style and color information in Chapters .:;through 8 are a composite of the various systems:have uncovered. It is important to note that n .every color analyst will agree with everything thatI have included, but everything that I haveincluded is advocated by many wardrobe andcolor consultants.

While it may be a temptation to skip over allbut one's own personal seasonal harmony section.for best results it is recommended that all four Ofthe seasons be studied by each seasonal type. InChapters 9 and 10. the consumer is encouragedto create her own "recipe" for an individualizedwardrobe that expresses her inner self; thedesigner, retail buyer, and sates associate will findmuch useful information for their purposes, too. Athorough understanding of Yin and Yang and theguidelines of all of the seasons will help theconsumer to learn when and how to "break therules" in order to create precisely the image shewishes to project, consistently and without costly

mistakes; it will help the designer, buyer, andsales associate similarly.

The information throughout the book is to beconstrued as "guidelines" rather than rules. Theguidelines 1) have evolved through observing thatmany, if not most, women who share specificcoloring, personality, etc., appear most harmoni-ous when wearing specific styles, fabrics andprints, and, in fact, often independently prefer thestyles outlined in the guidelines; 2) are beingtaught by various color analysts across the nation.Mucb of the book is a composite of theories

th~fi Ihave learned through reading, attending'seminars, my own color consultations, as well asthrough my personal experiences of wardrobingwomen through the years. Credit must be givento color analysts Suzanne Caygill, Dorothy Gietzen,Cheri Joerger, Joan Songer, and Pauline Worthfrom whom I learned so much; and to IreneKennedy, who has generously shared with me herunderstanding of Suzanne Caygill's teachings.

Much of what I have learned about colorharmony was originally taught by Suzanne Caygill.It has subsequently been described and illustratedin her book, Color, The Essence Of lou (CelestialArts, Millbrae, Ca. 1980), an invaluable resourcefor the study of the nature or Seasonal ColorHarmony Theory.

After Chapter Ten. choose your OKn ending ifvou are a consumer. turn to Chapter l-i 15.l:1G16: if you are a Designer. turn to Chapter 11Retailer Buyer - Chapter 12: Sales Assoclate=-Chapter :3. l--iand 1':; Chapter 1: is \fyFL'1t~:--'cf how designers might u~c the gUI':e.~ne5. Chap-ter 12 is for Retail Store Owners and Buyers of"X-omen'sReadv-to-Wear H.)WcTC the informationmay be applied to children's wear. Jewelry. shoes.accessories. and environmental design. \\bile Ihave not gone into men' s style information ingreat depth. the theory is applicable to them aswell. Many color analysts specialize in improvingmen's personal image through color and line;most also include some information about theimportance of using one's colors and style inpersonal environment whenever possible.

Chapter 13 is specific for sales associates. alongwith Chapters 14 and 15, which give some basicinformation about art principles, figure challenges.proportion, and illusion.

You will have views that have grown out of yourown experiences. Throughout the book you will


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10 The Color Connection

Winter Spring

Autumn

Illus. 7


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A Shirtdress for All Seasons

SpringSummerIllus. 17

WinterIllus. 15


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A Continuum of Style

The Color Connection6

Illus. 20


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~~n Lines: Spring or Animated, Light-bright~7e5S themselves best with the circular- with curved lines, which are feminine

==:;;ccr the natural roundness of the Spring_t==:=. . . = .:x>dy.An exception to the circular form

--.0= pert and youthful looking square collard in the nautical look or the perky- on the little boy shirts that are worn

_ some Spring types.

Illus. 106

Spring

Illus. 107

83


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Hair Styles: Curly, wispy, fluffy, loose curls, the~dblown look, flipped, with tendrils, and wavy- all examples of Spring hair styles that areyant and repeat roundness. The current wash

- wear tousled look or the playful pixie look ofztails and ponytails are perfect for the fun-- g Spring type. She usually will prefer a look

is playful, easy care and suited for her active

Spring

Illus. 118

89


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Spring 117

The following words have been attributed to-~ Spring Seasonal Color Harmony. (Using this- and the ones at the conclusion of each of the_-er seasons, make a word portrait of yourself

. ting the words that relate to you in any way,as your personality characteristics and/or- :::;,sicalattributes, your affinity for what the word

..:;.escribes,e.g., dancing. This word portrait may beid in discovering your percentages of each of

= seasonal harmonies. Some words appear in~ e than one season.

e demure innocent provincialr=enruresome devilish inspiriting quickdewy joyous radiant

~ted easygoing jubilant rapturousetic effervescent jaunty . refreshing

ng elfin-like kicky renewingenchanting leaping saucyexuberant light shiningfairy-like light-hearted simplefeisty lilting sincerefeminine limpid sparklingfestive lively spiritedflirtatious lyrical spontaneousfloral melodic sprightly

saal frank merry straightforwardrming fresh mischievous sunny

.zeerful freshly-scrubbed natural twinkling- ring friendly naughty-but-nice uncomplicated_:f ':211 . frivolous new unconcerned

frolicsome open unpremeditatedfun optimistic vitalgamin-like outgoing vivaciousgay outspoken vividglowing perky whimsicalgolden pert winsomehumorous piquant youthfulidyllic pixie zestfulimpish playfulimpudent prettyinfectious princess-like


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Fernin.ine knitswith open work, soft medium-e intarsia in relatively low contrast, blendedmuted colors, or fine cable detail done withneedles are good examples of Summer knits.

1 necklines are excellent, as are some boatcxs, rounded V-necks, blouson or draped sur--e shapes.

Think soft, feminine, refined and fine-grained in blended prints and drapablebrics for the Summerseasonal harmony

-.:ype.Think formal, simple, conservative,and timeless.

Summer 143


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Fabrics should be both soft and fine-gr .drapable, smooth, pliable, or with a fluid qusuch as crepe de chine, georgette, batiste, c .lawn, velvet, velveteen, soft wools, cashm -angora, velour, delicate lace, cutwork, silksoft broadcloth, silk tulle, challis, matte jersey.wale corduroy, or the new, very soft fine-

lllus. 180 corduroy, moire, fine gauze, rayon-linen blfine linen or silk.

Surface Prints and Patterns: Floral pattin muted watercolors that are blended, misindistinct and vague are typical prints for -Summer type. Patterns should be delicate blof color, tone on tone, quiet and watery-Ioo ..;Reproductions of the Summer flowers that are:and open, such as the rose or peonies, or 0that have undulating lines and/ or trailingcascading qualities, such as the gladiola, wist

lllus. 181 columbine, or delphinium are especially apprate for Summer prints.

Illus. 182

Hair styles may be short to medium Iengsoftly oval styles, or a longer, more softly wareand romantic look to complement theclassic and often less well-defined coloring of -Summer type. Sometimes the face of the Summerwoman has a molded, sculpted, or even chis -and well-defined look, which will be softenedher choice of cascades of softly curled orhair. She usually will not have quite the controlook of the Winter woman nor will she havecasual wash-and-wear look of the Spring type.may wear her hair softly up-swept with CUI'tendrils falling on the nape of her neck and abher ears, as in the Gibson Girl look. Hats should have soft, wide brims and undulzing lines, as in the S-curve of a picture hat. 1: .brims may be uneven from wide to narrow orin shape. They may be adorned with medium -large silky or velvet flowers, such as roses (whi -are the symbol of Summer), ostrich feathers.with soft bows of lace, silk or velvet. Whatever --ornamentation, it should have some movement -it, as in the cascading flowers of Summer.Summer type often enjoys flowers or bandsflowers in her hair.


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Summer 147

~_ = following words have been attributed to_mnmer Seasonal Color Harmony. (Using this

, the ones at the conclusion of each of theseasons, make a word portrait of yourself by.

~ the words that relate to you in any way,your personality characteristics and/orattributes, your affinity for what the word

-..;::'....oes, e.g., floral designs. This word portraitan aid in discovering your percentages of

.... of the seasonal harmonies. Some wordsinmore than one season",

enchanting light touch renaissanceethereal loved reservedexquisite lovely restful tairylike loving restrainefeminine luscious rhythmicfine luxurious romantifinesse meticulous rose-likefloral misty sense of orderfluidity muted sensitivefragile of another era sentimental

ble freeform opalescent shadowygentility organized softgentle peaceful soft-spokengentleness picturesque 'spiritualgraceful poised sunsetsgracious pretty sweetharmonized quaint tendernessheavenly queenly tranquilidealistic quiet Victorianinviting refined warmiridescent regal willowyladylike relaxed


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154 1 Connectionhe Co or

IlIus. 232

) J/llus. 233Illus. 234

\


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Surface patterns include leaf prints, oversplaids in warm, rich color combinations, a s : =metrical designs, geometric or angular desigherringbone, houndstooth, flamestitch, strichevron, pyramid, paisley, oriental, reptile, -exotic florals (although not those found in Haian prints, which tend to be for Spring typesjungle or animal skin prints in blended Aucolors. Paisley or ethnic fabrics shot with metthreads are excellent for Autumn types.that seem adapted from the paintings of themasters (e.g. Van Gogh, Gaugin) are suitable i:Autumns . Jewelry: The Autumn type typically ~-jewelry lavishly - more is often better. (It shobe noted, however, that a very natural or spAutumn type may prefer little or no jewelryWhat jewelry she does wear should be boldsolid-looking, never delicate. One little strananything is out of character for an Autumn .~while jangling bracelets are typical. Her ornarneztat ion should be as unusual as possible,naturalistic. Gold, brass, copper, baroque pbone or ivory, tortoise shell, jade, topaz, tigeragate, amber, carnelian, turquoise, coral,lazuli, brass and copper coins are all good jew -choices for the Autumn woman. Pods, inlaidcarved wood, leather thongs, or other materialsthe earth are also in character for jewelry for --Autumn type.

Illus. 239


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Autumn 177

_ e following words have been attributed toAutumn Seasonal Color Harmony. (Using thisrod the ones at the conclusion of each of the

seasons, make a word portrait of yourself byo the words that relate to you in any way,- as your personality characteristics and/oral attributes, your affinity for what the word

-"...--.nes, e.g., ornamentation. This word portraite an aid in discovering your percentages ofof the seasonal harmonies. Some words~in more than one season.

earthy lustre smartenergetic magnetic solidityexotic mature sombernessfeeling of dark earth maturity sophisticatedfeeling of peacefulness mellow spicyfeeling of stability natural spiritedfiery need to use their energy splendorfirmness nurturing straightforwardflamboyant opulence strongforceful ornamentation tambourinesfreedom outdoor look tangyglorious positive tawnyglow power tropicalgypsy-like colors profound unevennesshaving substance pungent vervehigh -spirited purposeful vibrantintense put in charge of things vigorousintensity resplendent vitaljangling bracelets rich vividkinetic richness warmlatin-type look robust warmthleaves rusty brownslook of health sense of abandonlooks very capable showiness


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.1Ir:::iCcwardrobe design detail of the Winter- elude:

point on each outfit;with stylized, pure and

futuristic lines as in many highk s ;

cd or shimmery look;well-defined look;

....,.. :::c~ or harlequin shapes or color blocked

Winter 51


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~rinter

The following words have been attributed to=Winter Seasonal Color Harmony. (Using this- and the ones at the conclusion of each of the

er seasons, make a word portrait of yourself. ting the words that relate to you in any way,

as your personality characteristics and/or~sical attributes, your affinity for what the word

ibes, e.g., abstract designs. This word portrait._ be an aid in discovering your percentages of

of the seasonal harmonies. Some wordscoear in more than one season.

szract designs dramatic luxurious smokey.......:mng duskiness magnetic smooth

f elegant magnificent sophisticatenticing majestic sparklingexotic moonlit quality stark

T and white definiteness expensive opulent stately.:::i..1Il explicit pearly statuesque

~tivating exquisite polished still~c extravagant precise striking

ic extreme pure stunningformal quiet tempting

~Iy expressed frosty refined theatricalanding glistening regal tranquil

trolled gracious restrained undisturbeI high fashion romantic unrelievedly icy scintillating urban

zrystalline important sense of fullness urbane..:.efined imposing sense of mystery velvety.:_gnified impressive self-assured vibrant_stinct incisive serene vivid.::..stinctive lavish silky well-bred:..stinguished luminous soigne worldly


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IlIus. 49

Hair Styles are apt to be sleek, smooth.stylized, asymmetric and sophisticated as in ~chignon, French twist, or page boy, blunt CuLsmooth waves, a smooth brow (as a rule ncbangs), always striving for an oval shape andcontrol. The messy look is rarely suitable for theWinter type. Remember some of the descriptivewords of the Winter type: controlled, elegant,dramatic, regal, sophisticated, smooth, etc. Hairstyles should be in harmony with the personalityas should all other aspects of her appearance. Hat shapes can be pill boxes, turbans, hoodsextreme perfectly aligned bows or futuristiclooks. Her hat is striking and exotic rather thancute and perky (Spring); soft, romantic anundulating (Summer); or angular and somewharmasculine looking (Autumn). Some will wearlarge picture hat, but it will have more body anddefinition than the undulating fluid lines am!softness of the Summer hat. When the Wintertype wears a fedora-like hat, it will usually besoftened version. The Winter hat may be decoratecwith sequins, crystal beads, or rhinestones for herevening or holiday look. Bags for Winter types are best in oval shapes orat least with rounded corners, in soft, smoothleather or lustrous fabric. Clutches may be pre-ferred by many Winter types as they appear moreelegant than shoulder bags. Brocade, silver orcrystal beaded bags would be appropriate forevening. Jewelry preferences of the Winter type tendsto be medium to large, stylized, smooth andsimple. Metals are preferably silver, platinum, orwhite gold. A single focal point on an outfit isusually enough for the sophisticated, elegant 100 -of Winter; she will often prefer one piece that isoversized and dramatic. Her jewels will be onesthat sparkle (as opposed to ones that glow), suchas diamonds, rhinestones, crystal, jet, black onyx.rubies, sapphires, emeralds, zircon, amethyst.alexandrite or aquamarine, although she will wearpearls or white jade as well. She may enjoydramatic large silver earrings or ceramic ones thaappear almost luminous or vibrant. The moreexotic types may wear old jewelry from theOrient, Africa or Afghanistan or even bizarre.futuristic or contemporary looks.

Documents

Callaway the Color Connection Pub 1986