Bulgarian Khane Valley Expedition 2011–Pakistan The First ...jac.or.jp/english/images/vol13/JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS Vol13-30.pdf · unclimbed summits. Our team included Nikolay Petkov,

● JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2012

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TATSUO (TIM) INOUE

The First Ascent of Lopchin Feng (KG-2) 6,805mAutumn 2009 Expedition to the Kangri Garpo East Mountains, Tibet

NIKOLAY PETKOV, DOYCHIN BOYANOV, MICHAIL MICHAILOV

Bulgarian Khane Valley Expedition 2011–PakistanFirst Phase Karakoram Big Walls Project 2011/12, Tagas Group

(Supplemented by Tsuneo Miyamori)

Tangra Tower 5,620m south face, No.33 on Wala map, unclimbed

JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2012●

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Between September 10 and 22, 2011, a Bulgarian exploratory expedition visited the Khane Valley in Karakoram to investigate and assess to the possibilities for new big-wall routes and ascents on unclimbed summits. Our team included Nikolay Petkov, Doychin Boyanov and Mihail Mihaylov.We availed ourselves of information and maps by Jerzy Wala; other sources were Google Earth, the 2005 Annual Book of the Korean Students᾽ Alpine Federation as well as knowledge of local inhabitants of the Khane village.

On September 11, 2011, after a two-day walk from Khane village, the team built a base camp at 4650 m on the right-hand (north) moraine of the Khane Glacier. We observed, photographed and measured the summits in the upper part of the valley: Hidden Tower (~,5830m), Agil (~5,680m), Tangra (~5,620m), Rila (~5,600m), Sofia (~5,550m), Meligo (~5,680m), Gray Tower (~5,300m), etc. The heights determined by us were measured with a GPS Garmin with an average horizontal accuracy of 6 to 8 m, corresponding to a vertical accuracy of about 20 meters. All other height figures, marked with the tilde sign (~), are tentative, taken from the Google Earth model for this region.

Mountaineering History

For many years, the Khane Valley has remained in a shadow of the neighboring Nangmah and Charakusa Valleys closely to the north and parallel to it as Charakusa and Nangmah᾽s greater had potentials for first ascents on the fine granite walls of unclimbed peaks in 1990s and 2000s. Currently, the main summits and walls in these two valleys have all been climbed.To date, the Khane Valley has only been places for the same name village providing pastures for their livestock and most summits were unnamed except for those peaks seen from the villages along the Hushe River, the Nangmah Valley and the pastures along the Khane River up to around 4,300m.

According to the Khane villagers, the first foreigner to have visited the valley in 2001 was a Korean; he came two more times and made two failed attempts to climb, most probably, the west wall of Agil Summit. During the second visit the Koreans set up a camp at 4,450m and opened a climbing route on a 250-meter high rocky outcrop near by – probably reaching the very top of this satellite arête. Actually, this is the first route to be made here, but the climb was insignificant since there are many other bigger walls surrounding the valley to all directions. So far we have no other information on explorations and attempts on climbing the other summits.

It is said that an American came for a trekking after Ogre Peak expedition. She reached a foot of Great Tower tracing a big grassy terrace (First Terrace) along the side valley between Rila and Tangra Peaks to the east and Sofia Peak to the west.The other ascents before 2011 started from the Nangmah Valley on Black Tower (Sarigo) and Singu Chatpa (also called Singu Charpa and Great Tower). There is a small but very beautiful pointed peak towering over Khane village, called Nauari Brakk (~3,250m); this was first climbed by villagers Ali Mehmed and his son, Ruhal Ali in 2009. All the other summits surrounding the valley remain untrodden.

Geography

The Khane Valley is perpendicular to the Hushe River in Masherbrum Range. The valley is separated from the Nangmah Valley to the north by a serrated rocky ridge. Another rocky barrier delimits its southern edge, separating it from a small valley above Haldi Village (also Halde). To the east, where the main ridge makes an almost right-angle curve, is the upper part of the Tagas Valley. The ridge in


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the northeastern part of the valley borders on the upper side of the Lachit Valley and Glacier. The highest part of the Khane Valley is orientated in the north-south direction and the main part in the east-west-northwest direction. The right-hand (north) and left-hand (south) sides of the Khane Glacier and River are delimited by two main ridges. To the north, the right-hand one slopes down to the Nangmah Valley. Its main peaks are Black Tower (Sarigo) and Great Tower (Singu Chatpa).The Khane Glacier flows south through the Khane Col (~5,250m). At first, it moves in the north-south direction, then, after an icefall at 4,900m, it abruptly turns west. At 4,400m, the glacier᾽s snout gives rise of the Khane River, flowing northwest. This is the place we named Second Terrace, where the Korean camp was situated. After a sheer drop, the river forms a waterfall and flows through a wide grassy plain (First Terrace) used for pastures.

The main peaks situated on the left-hand side of the glacier above Khane Col are Hasho II (~6,000m), Peak 58 (~5,930), Hidden Tower (or Peak 59, ~5,830), Khanlim (Peak 60) and the Twins. On the right-hand side of the glacier are Peak 23 and Agil (~5,680). At the base of the Twins᾽ north wall, the Khane Glacier abruptly turns west along the north slopes of the southern ridge.Immediately before sloping down to the Hushe Valley, the left-hand (southern) ridge has two main peaks: Meligo (~5,680m) and Grey Tower (~5,300m). Meligo Peak is separated from the Twins to the east by a saddle that can be reached by an iced gully between the Twins and the Saws Ridge. Seen from the north (from Khane), Meligo is characteristic with two big rocky arêtes, named the Ghulam and Fida Towers (~5,200m), which rise from the main ridge coming from the east. To the west, it is connected to Gray Tower. Down to 4,400 m, Meligo᾽s northern slope is covered with the South Khane Glacier. This can be crossed and, after a small saddle and crossing a steep gully, the saddle between Meligo and Gray Tower is reached at 5,000m. After Gray Tower, the ridge (~4,800m high) gradually slopes down to the valley at Khane Village (2,800m).

The right-hand main ridge begins from Khane Pass. It is directed from the east to the northwest. Starting from Khane Pass, it includes Peak 23 (~5,600m), the Trident (Peak 26, ~5,550m), the Thumb (Peak 31, ~5,480), Peak 32, Tangra Tower (Peak 33, ~5,620m), Rila Peak (Peak 36, ~5,600m), Levski Peak (Peak 38, ~5,620m), Singu Chatpa/Great Tower (Peak 44, ~5,910m), Gamgar Brakk (an arête between the two main summits), Black Tower/Sarigo (Peak 50, ~5,600m) and, immediately above Khane Village, Nauari Brakk (Peak 52, ~3,250m).

Agil (Peak 24, ~5,680m) is a prominent summit situated south of the main ridge, on a secondary ridge starting from Peak 23 and sloping down to the middle of the valley where the glacier forms a right angle.The other prominent summit visible to the north from the First Terrace is Sofia (Peak 39, ~5,550m). It is situated on a side ridge, starting from the main one at Singu Chatpa and going south.The North Cirque (5,100m) is at the bottom of the valley flanked by Agil Peak to the east, Tangra Peak to the west and the Trident and Khane Col II to the north. Starting from the cirque, the North Khane Glacier flows to the south, perpendicularly to the main Khane Glacier. Its terminus gives rise of a big stream and valley descending all the way down to the glacial plain named Second Terrace.Another big cirque and a relatively easily accessible valley are formed between Singu Chatpa and Sofia Peak to the west and Levski and Rila Peaks to the east. This valley goes down to the glacial plain named First Terrace.

Narrow and closed but well shaped, the third valley lies between Black Tower, Singu Chatpa and Sofia Peaks. It goes down to the lower part of the main valley, close to the beginning of an abandoned artificial channel. Apart from the peaks forming the high ridges, other places of interest from the climber᾽s point of


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view are the rocky faces of the towers in the lower zone, immediately above the valley᾽s bottom. These are prominent rocky needles and towers with 300 to 400-meter high-quality granite walls. These satellite peaks are more characteristic for the northern slopes, which mean that they have predominantly south, west and east faces, with no snow or ice on them. They are suitable for multi-pitch rock-climbing routes.* The right-hand and left-hand directions are determined as observed whilst facing downstream. Access

A three-hour SUV drive along the valleys of the Indus and Shyok Rivers leads from Skardu, the administrative capital of the Pakistan᾽s Baltistan Province, to the town of Khaplu. Up to this point, there is an asphalt road in a pretty good state. From Khaplu, take the wire-rope bridge across the Shyok River to the north, towards the villages of Machulu and Khane. This is the road of Hushe. About 1:30 hours from Khaplu (dirt road) the village of Khane is reached, situated on the left bank of the Hushe River, at 2,800m. This village is relatively unknown to foreign visitors. The locals grow crops and breed animals, mainly goats, sheep and yaks.

For the time being, there is no special permit needed to visit Khane and the neighboring Nangmah Valley. By contrast, to visit other valleys in the region, as the Charakusa Valley, you need a trekking permit. As the summits don᾽t surpass 6,500m, no permit is needed for them either.On the map, there are many other valleys visible to the south and east of Khane – the Haldi, Tagas, Tsino and Lachit Valleys – but all of them are closed to foreigners (except the first one may be), and this applies to all ramifications of the Saltoro and Kondus Valleys all the way back to the Siachen


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Glacier, the demarcation line with India. The military checkpoint and barrier are in the village of Haldi. Khane Village is the starting point of the trek, going east on the steep sandy slope of the river᾽s left bank. After reaching an irrigation channel* cut into the slope, the path follows this horizontally towards the Khane River. After a 5-hour᾽s walk, you reach the big grassy plain (First Terrace) at 4,000m. Here, the first camp is set up in the vicinity of the livestock pens (a camping tax is collected). From here on, there are excellent places to set camp for climbing in the valley. Starting from the green terrace, the path initially crosses flat fields on both sides of the Khane River until it reaches the far end of the terrace (it is advisable to use the northern river bank, i.e. the left-hand one when going upstream). A 450-meter ascent leads to the Korean Base Camp at the bottom of the valley coming down from the North Cirque. The Bulgarian Camp is reached in one hour going east, upstream the main Khane Glacier. It is situated on the large sandy flats to the right (or to the left when going up) of the glacial moraine at 4,650m. This is the last good place with hard soil and water. From the Bulgarian Camp, the Khane Icefall is reached in 1:30 hours. This is also the way to reach the Hidden Tower wall. The icefall can be climbed in its left-hand side. An early start is advisable because of the two huge seracs hanging from the western slopes of Khanlim Peak (Peak 60).

Panoramic view of the Khane Valley – southern part from the southwest


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Panoramic view of the Khane Valley – southern part Panoramic view of the Khane Valley – northern part


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Summits and Glaciers

When naming the peaks, we have taken into consideration, at the first place, existing local names, and then the ones given by the Korean expedition. For all others, we have used the numbering and elevations quoted on maps by Jerzy Wala. Geographic names given by the Bulgarian expedition are the following:

Summits

Hidden Tower (~ 5,830m) – Peak 59 Tangra Tower (~ 5,620m) – Peak 33Rila Peak (~ 5,600m) – Peak 36 Sofia Peak (~ 5,550m) – Peak 39Levski Peak (~ 5,520m) – Peak 38 The Trident (~ 5,550m) – Peak 26The Thumb (~ 5,480m) – Peak 31 Ghulam & Fida Towers (~ 5,100m) – Peak 68Grey Tower (~ 5,300m) – Peak 222 The Saws Ridge, Peak 66

Glaciers and cirques

North Cirque & North Khane Glacier (~ 5,000m)South Khane Glacier (~ 4,900m)

Panoramic view of the Khane Valley – upper part


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Hidden Tower 5,830m north and south face, No. 59 on Wala map, unclimbed

Agil Peak 5,680m (Korean name) southwest face,No. 24 on Wala map, unclimbed

Rila Peak 5,600 south face,No. 36 on Wala map, unclimbed


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Overview of Peaks Surrounding Nangmah Valley, Tagas Group

Fukusima Expedition 2005(Text: Tsuneo Miyamori, Photos: Shigehiro Kakizaki)

The Tagas massif is surrounded by those valleys of Hushe, Saltoro, Kondus, Lachit and Nangmah, namely ranges northwards to the K6 massif from the Austrian Col that shares the Nangmah and Lachit valleys. Jerzy Wala᾽s map is attached hereto for identification. Those rivers of Nangmah, Khane, Tagas and Lachit flow out from near Hasho Pk ca.6200m W22 (number marked on the Wala map). These rivers were used as an access to climb peaks around K6. Lofty rock peaks soaring in both sides of the rivers attacked climbers᾽ attention in 1980s. Wojciech Kurtyka᾽s photographs and Wala᾽s detailed and comprehensive maps inspired many climbers in 2000s. Peaks are not high but dark granite rock walls with sharp-pointed towers are awful and most challenging. They would provide abundant fields for extreme and exciting climbs.

The Nangmuh River locates adjacent to and north of the Khane River which the Korean and Bulgarian entered. The K6 massif is on the right bank and the Tagas massif in on the left bank of the Nangmuh Rivers. A ridge, local name Lele, and a top of Cuculi Brack ca. 5,600m W49 are viewed towards upstream from Minjul/Mingyul of the Hushe valley, if weather is fine. An access route is in the both sides of the river. Steep zigzag ascent continues from New Kande to Minjul as if were in the abysm sided by overwhelming rock walls. A group of pointed peaks first seen are W147 and W143 of Nurishan Pks. Height of these peaks is not measured.

1. Photo ① shows the W143 taken from the west and east.

2. ② After passing Karuka, a whole view of Cuculi Brack ca. 5,600m W49 appears and summit ridge ranging east to west above the northwest face.

3. The central part of ③ is a dark wall of Shingu Chapta (Great Tower) 5,910m, which was first climbed via the east face by Shin Dong-Chul and other two member of a Korean party in 1999 after a trial attempt on Amin Brakk.

4. All peaks including ④ Lunkha Peaks have been yet measured. A peak in the center, Kusho Pk II ca. 6,200m W22 is behind Lunkha Pk W29.

5. Photo ⑤ is a picture seen from Karuka to east. Takab Tower W17 is prominent and only from this point Husho Pk I W21 can be seen on the right-upper part of this picture. On the further right-upper part snowy summit ridge of Luhka Pk W29 is noticed.

6. ⑥ Vertical dark wall in the right of Takub Tower W17 is of an unmeasured peak called Roungkhanchang II W30 ca. 4,700m. Roungkhanchan ranges from 1 to IV peak having magnificent rock walls. In 2004, before assaulting Shingu Chatpa, three members of an Italian party successfully climbed 540m vertical wall of Roungkhanchan I ca. 4,500m in 14 pitches.

7. ⑦ The Austrian Col is the lowest saddle at ca. 5,400m to connect the Nangmah River and Lachit River being behind a front ridge. The Col was en route for ascending K6 and shares the K6 massif and the Tagas massif.

8. ⑧ From W131 ranging to Nawaz Brakk and then to Amin Brakk, but only W130 is dominant in


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sight.

9. ⑨ Only a top of Amin Brakk is seen. Changui Pk W132 and W130 are only subsidiary peaks of Amin group.

10. ⑩ The last fortress in the K6 massif, Changui Tower. North face would presumably remain unclimbed.


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Documents

Bulgarian Khane Valley Expedition 2011–Pakistan The First ...jac.or.jp/english/images/vol13/JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS Vol13-30.pdf · unclimbed summits. Our team included Nikolay Petkov,