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Build and Fly a Paramotor - safely and inexpensivelyby Sky-Monkey on November 13, 2011

Table of Contents

Build and Fly a Paramotor - safely and inexpensively . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Intro:   Build and Fly a Paramotor - safely and inexpensively . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 1:   Safety and Training . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Step 2:   Tools/Equipment and Materials Required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Step 3:   Kiting / Ground handling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Step 4:   Research . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Step 5:   Engine and Engine Mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Step 6:   Frame Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Step 7:   Making the Frame . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Step 8:   Paint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Step 9:   Safety Netting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Step 10:   Hand Throttle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Step 11:   Fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Step 12:   Harness / Seat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Step 13:   Reserve Parachute . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Step 14:   Gliders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

Step 15:   Know the Rules . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39

Step 16:   Haul It . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

Step 17:   Pre-flight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43

Step 18:   Get High! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

Step 19:   After-thoughts & Lessons Learned . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

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Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

Author:Sky-MonkeyI have a never-ending desire to try new things, build stuff, experiment, and learn. I don't really watch TV, or play video games - I prefer to get myentertainment from physically interacting with the world. I'm interested in just about everything - which is double edged - I have a never-ending list of projectsthat I want to work on, and a limited budget. I enjoy being creative, and coming up with unique solutions to problems. I love learning, and also enjoy sharingmy skills and knowledge with others - so if you have any questions- definitely ask.

Intro:  Build and Fly a Paramotor - safely and inexpensivelyLive the dream:Ever since I was a little kid, I dreamed of flying. My first attempt around age 8, resembled an oversized kite made of tree branches and black plastic. Needless to say Itwas an unsuccessful attempt at flight, and fortunately for me, the hills near where I grew up weren’t very steep. Since then my desire to fly has only grown stronger, andI have gained the knowledge and saved up enough money to enter the world of powered paragliding (ppg).

To me there is no other feeling like flying. It is the most natural and mind freeing sensation there is. I do enjoy flying in planes (both large and small), but the opennessand simplicity of flying a paramotor is second to none. I look forward to new and future forms of flying that allow for even greater freedom, but for now, ppg is pretty darngood.

If nothing else, I think you will enjoy watching the video - even if you have no desire to fly, build a "flying machine", or read an instructable about building a flying machine.

Build and Fly a Paramotor (safely and for cheap) from Sky-Monkey on Vimeo.

Whats the Point?Paramotoring is primarily done for recreation, however there are a number of practical uses for paramotors. Search and rescue teams have used paramotors for gettinginto remote areas and flying low to the ground in searches, the Florida Police department utilizes paramotors for beach patrol, they are used for aerial photography, andvideography, they are used for advertising, and for entertaining spectators among others things.

How much and How difficult?Since buying a rather expensive paramotor and taking a number of lessons, I have come to realize how simple paramotors really are. They may appear complicated atfirst glance, but they are really just a combination of multiple simple pieces that work together.I built the Frame, Harness, Throttle, Reserve Parachute deployment bag, and Fuel system in under two weeks of evenings and weekends while working a full-time job.Excluding the engine, propellor, reserve parachute, and parglider (the stuff most people cant make themselves), the project cost under $200 USD. The things I didn'tbuild range broadly based on new/used from $2000 - $5000+ USD

This instructable is meant to be an overview of how I went about making my own paramotor, and to hopefully give others some ideas and inspiration for creating theirown (or even just to get people interested in and aware of the sport). A good deal of experience with similar construction techniques is highly recommended as is a gooddeal of time and patience. Cost is highly variable, however, for this demonstration, I am attempting to do everything for the least possible cost.

I constantly find myself printing out templates from my computer, spray mounting them to plastic, pressboard, foam, and other materials and cutting everything out byhand. I would also love to have something that would cut fabrics for some of the composite and textile projects that I work on. Beyond that, I enjoy making stencils forspraying t-shirts, and graphics onto the stuff I build. Because of this, I would like to be entered into the 4th Epilog laser contest. I am hopeful that this project is viewed byothers with as much enthusiasm as I have for making stuff, and for personal flight.

Image Notes1. Finished assembly ready to fly

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Image Notes1. Hitch mount - plugs into receiver on pretty much any car with a hitch

Image Notes1. The rack holds the motor securely for transport, and for warming up the engine -it also puts it at a nice height for hooking into the harness

Image Notes1. Everything needed to take off

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Step 1: Safety and TrainingWhats Safety?

The first and most important thing when considering getting involved in the sport is training. It doesn't matter how safe your equipment is, proper training makes all thedifference in the world.

That being said, paramotoring is arguably the safest current form of recreational aviation out there.

Nevertheless, I do not recommend attempting to enter this sport without training . If you can find an instructor who offers training by the lesson vs. a lump fee –Training can be quite inexpensive for those who are dedicated and willing to rehearse what is taught between lessons. Aside from the obvious safety risks associatedwith not getting proper training – people have scared themselves out of wanting to fly because of bad attempts to “self train.”Some people never go back to it as a result of bad experiences.

So, bottom line: GET PROPER TRAINING!

My best attempt at a legal disclaimer:

The reader of this instructable should be aware that flying of any type can be very dangerous to the pilot and anyone else nearby. They should also be aware that thematerial published here is by no means a substitute for proper training or paramotor safety education. Before attempting to replicate any portion of the following project, athorough understanding of the sport, its fundamental principles, and the equipment necessary to participate in such a sport should be properly obtained and exercised.The author of this article is in no way responsible for the use or interpretation of the following information. The information is intended only as documentation of theauthors work, and in no way suggests that others will have similar outcomes by attempting to replicate said work.

Image Notes1. Carbon Fiber - epoxy Helmet - I made this one last year, I might do up aninstructable about it if there is interest2. Most Paramotor helmets have ear muffs to cut down the noise from the engineand prop3. camera mount

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Image Notes1. A full-face non-powered paragliding helmet

Step 2: Tools/Equipment and Materials RequiredMaterials for what I built:6 x 10' lengths of 1/2" EMT conduit ( 6 x $2.18 = $13.08 - Lowes, most hardware stores)Filler rod / brazing rod - dependent upon method (~$3.00/lb x 2lbs = $6.00 - Welding supply Store)Braided Mason's line ( $3.47 - Lowes, most hardware stores)Seat belt buckles ($0 - $20 - make friends with a local junk yard)Seat belt webbing ($0 - $10 - make friends with a local junk yard)Outdoor nylon fabric ($4-$8/yard x 3yards = $12-$24 - Jo-ann fabrics (check the flat folds section for good deals), Walmart, or other fabric stores)Bonded Nylon thread - ($5 - a 1/2 lb spool will give you plenty to spare - fabric stores or ebay)Bicycle brake lever, cable and housing ($0 - $5 junkyard, yardsale,)Momentary button ($1 - electronics stores, online)22 awg or larger wire for kill switch ($1 -scrounge from anywhere)Small square of 3/4" plywood for seat board ($5 - hardware store, carpenter scrap)Fuel tank ($10 - $12 ~2 gallon capacity [less than 5 gallons to be Federal Aircraft Regulation 103 legal]Fuel hose ($1-$2/foot x 4 feet - $4 - $8 - auto parts stores, small engine shops, online )Fuel Filter ($1-$2 -auto parts stores, small engine shops, online )Fuel Primer Bulb ($4-$8 -auto parts stores, small engine shops, online )

Cost of the stuff I don't recommend trying to make:Propellor ($150 -$250 for wood - $400+ for Carbon)Engine ($300 - $2000 [the greatest price variable - details discussed in own section])Reserve Parachute ($300 - $700)Paraglider ($500 - $3500)

Tools:Tubing roller (only used briefly - I recommend using someone else's if you don't have one)Tubing benderMetal cutting and grinding toolMeans of brazing or welding tubingDrill and various drill bitsSewing Machine with heavy needle (some people refer to them as "jean needles")

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Image Notes1. Conduit is a great all-purpose material that works well for building quick andinexpensive projects - I also use a 10' length with streamers attached as a windindicator for kiting and flying

Image Notes1. 1/2" EMT conduit2. Piece of square galvanized steel tube used for engine mounts

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

Step 3: Kiting / Ground handlingThe most basic and also the most important skill required to fly a paramotor is kiting. Much like flying a kite, "kiting" is the act of controling a glider (typically from theground) - It is also known as "ground handling"

*Often in PPG, the words Kite, Glider, Wing, Sail, Chute , and others are often used interchangeably by different people, and all refer to the Paraglider (the oval shapedfabric parachute above the pilot's head)

Powered parachutes or "PPC's" are typically more squarely shaped wings flown with a "trike" (a three wheeled rolling chassis) and often have a very large surface area -and thus have a relatively slow airspeed - modern paragliders have evolved from this basic idea, however are much more collapse resistant, more maneuverable, andcan travel at higher speeds

Kiting is relatively safe, however the basic principles are best learned first from a proper instructor before attempting to kite by ones self. An unskilled pilot attempting tokite without a competent instructor risks being caught off guard by wind gusts and put into dangerous situations

After a first lesson or two in kiting, lots of practice responding to the wing and changes in the wind will help build the skill necessary to be a great pilot.

Never try kiting in wind speeds above your skill level, and only practice in a large open area - never near a large hill or in thermic air

Image Notes1. A pilot should be very comfortable with ground handling / kiting beforeattempting to fly a paramotor

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Step 4: ResearchDespite the overall lack of awareness and popularity of paramotoring in the US, Paramotors have been around for a good twenty or so years - and a lot of progress hasbeen made in that amount of time. So learn from what others have learned and save yourself a lot of work

I don't recommend building a setup yourself if you do not have sufficient experience with the basics of flying a paramotor, or if you aren't reasonably skilled in making stuffthat your life is dependant upon.I also know however, that there are a number of people who attempt to get into the sport in just this manor I warn against

I believe that the safest way to enter this sport is to buy new, and up to date equipment, however, that is not always an option for everyone. I feel that this project provesthat it is possible to build your own equipment safely, and on a budget - and in some cases I believe that this approach is safer than purchasing many forms of outdatedused equipment.

If you are determined to build your own equipment, my best advice is to do lots of research. There is a good amount of information available online, which is a good placeto start, but seeing the equipment in person is far more valuable. Taking some trips to the nearest flight park or training facility will give you a far better grasp on why andhow things are made the way that they are. Along with what advancements have recently come about, and why things are set-up the way they are.

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Step 5: Engine and Engine MountingThe bolt pattern and relationship between prop center and bolt pattern is different for different motors- before creating a frame and engine mounts, you will need a motorto fit to the frame.

Two stroke vs Four stroke:The vast majority of engines purpose built for paramotoring are two-strokes. There are a few companies that make four-strokes for the sport, however they typicallyweight more compared to an equally powered two stroke.

Displacement:Paramotor engines vary in displacement from around 50 - 80cc on the small end and 200 - 250cc on the large end.

Bigger is better?Everything is a trade-off. The ultimate factor with something you want to fly is the strength to weight ratio. More importantly - It is not only the power to weight ratio of theparamotor itself, but also compared to the pilot's weight. For a lighter pilot, a smaller engine will work fine, for a heavier pilot, a larger engine may be required.

Price:Engines can be found used, for less money. However, certain new engines are not terribly expensive either. Robert Shaw and his "egg" project put together a modifiedhonda 200cc generator motor for about $1550USD or an imported RedHead 180cc engine which is designed specifically for paramotoring can be bought for $1750USD.

Vibration Isolation:

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The engines are mounted to the frame using rubber isolators to help minimize the vibration felt from the motor.

Engine Dimensions:Beyond the tradeoff of power to weight, physical dimensions are another important consideration for engines. The greater the distance between the prop and the pilotsback, the larger the cage needs to be to protect the prop. Also, the larger the engine, (front to back) the more leverage the weight has hanging further behind your back.

Image Notes1. 185cc two-stroke2. Direct drive - reduction pulley,The engine rpm needs to be cut to almost 1/3 to prevent the tips of the propellerfrom breaking the sound barrier - which gets noisy, and isn't efficient

Image Notes1. rubber vibration isolators

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Step 6: Frame DesignThere are countless paramotor designs with varying levels of safety and functionality. Each has its own strengths and weaknesses in the areas of power, weight, safety,compactness, durability , and the ever important: cost .

Cost is of great importance in this example. Most people who try to get into the sport by building their own setup are primarily doing so to save cost. If money is not afactor, then I highly recommend purchasing your first set of equipment. My goal for this frame was to build it almost entirely from materials that can be gotten at localhardware stores, from junkyards, and/or ordered inexpensively online.

Safety is of great importance to me, as I value my life, and I dont yet have the experience yet to experiment with dangerous equipment. I hope that this is also the casefor anyone else looking to enter the sport.

Some claim that there is a trade-off for cost and safety (Inexpensive equipment not being safe) - I however disagree with that - If done properly, you can make lessexpensive equipment equally safe as expensive equipment. It will weigh more, as it will be made of less expensive materials, but it can still be done safely.

Weight is typically indirectly proportionate to cost (for many high-performance things) - to reduce weight, you are typically looking at an increase in cost (look at high endbicycles - the more carbon fiber parts, the lighter and more expensive)

I will try to point out the areas where cost can be cut for the least possible increases in cost.Durability is also of high importance, as I know that at my level and the level which most people start out at, mistakes are made, and I want the frame to be able towithstand some bumps and bruises.

Compactness is important for people with little storage space, and/or a small vehicle without a hitch. For me, I almost never disassemble my frame, thus I will be buildinga single piece frame. (By cutting a frame apart so it can be disassembled - you are typically either adding weight, reducing the overall rigidity, adding cost, or acombination of the three.

Power comes from the engine and propellor. Effective power is a result of additional factors like aerodynamics. Starting out, it is typically best to learn paramotoring in aconsistent wind of around 6-10 mph. With less wind, and with smaller paragliders, more power is necessary. It is always nice to have more power, but it is also often atrade-off for cost and weight.

So after doing a good amount of research, I started sketching, and then 3d modeling some ideas of what I wanted to build in the computer. Its good to have an existingparamotor to reference as you create your design, so that you aren't constantly "re-inventing" everything.

Learn from what has already been learned by others , and you will save yourself a lot of time and experimenting.

Design: Depending on what you are familiar and comfortable with, drafting or a 3d computer model can save a lot of time and wasted materials - nevertheless - somepeople are comfortable with mere hand sketches or scale physical models. Whatever your medium, try to plan ahead

3D modeling:I modeled my frame in Rhino 3d. Sketch-up and other similar programs will also work fine. It doesn't have to be a perfect model - but it will help eliminate a lot of trial anderror down the road

Once I had my design worked out in the computer, It was time to start building.

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Step 7: Making the FrameRolling:A tubing roller is a relatively pricey tool ($160+) and isn't used that much for this project, so, if you know someone who has one, its a quick and easy part of the project

The fan shroud should provide at least a couple inches of clearance around the prop in every direction - so, the minimum O.D. for the shroud shoud be PropDiameter + 4"

Bending:Tubing benders are relatively inexpensive, however, again if you can borrow one from someone, the bulk of the bending could be done in a single evening if you plan outwhat you will be building ahead of time

The right tools:A simple cut off wheel and grinding wheel in an angle grinder will suffice for this, however it is a definite time savings if you can get hold of - or make - a tubing notcher (basically a hole saw in a fixture )

The cuts can be made with a hacksaw, chop saw, cut-off wheel or whatever you have that worksTo get the shape to match another tube, you will need a grinder/sander of some sort.

Tight Joints:Mark the tubes where they need to be cut and go a tad shorter - grind the last bit for a precise fit - the better the fit, the stronger the joint, and the easier thewelding/brazing will be

Welding vs. Brazing:Brazing is sufficiently strong if done properly, however welding is preferred. I have built and safely flown a frame which is entirely brazed together - a brazed joint can bemade equally as strong as a welded joint - however it will be heavier than a welded joint (as more filler rod is required to get the same strength as welded steel.

Warning! EMT conduit is galvanized - meaning that it is coated with zinc. cutting, grinding, sanding, brazing, and welding produce airborn zinc dust which can posehealth risks if not handled with care. Doing the bulk of the work outdoors is suggested, and proper safety equipment should be worn - A simple particle mask and safetyglasses are minimum.

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Image Notes1. A DIY tubing roller

Step 8: PaintBefore threading the safety net, I wanted to quickly hit the welds and drill holes with paint to keep the bare metal from rusting.

Eventually I plan on painting the frame to look nice - and re-string the netting with a color other than white, but I also figured that it is somewhat likely that I may makechanges to the frame as I use it and would rather not have to worry about messing up a nice paint job.

Below are some renderings of the frame in Orange, Red, Blue, and Green - If anyone has a preference about colors - leave me a comment, and I'll paint it the mostpopular color

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Image Notes1. bare metal

Image Notes1. Painted metal

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Step 9: Safety NettingWhy a Net?Safety netting is what keeps your fingers on your hands, and other stuff out of the propeller.One of the most common injuries in paramotoring is getting struck in the hand by a spinning prop. A good cage and netting design can help eliminate that from potentiallyhappening. The goal is to eliminate all possibility for hands, feet, elbows etc getting anywhere near the propeller

Removable nettingSome manufacturers of paramotors use a removable netting that can be taken off for dis-assembly. One of the issues with this style netting, is that in the past some haveunintentionally come partially unhooked from the cage in flight and gotten wrapped around the propeller - This will typically stall the motor at best - but can have far worseconsequences.

I chose to create a permanent netting that is non-removable. By drilling small holes through the tubing of the frame, I was able to weave a length of braided nylonmason's line through each section of the frame.

Through-holes vs. Rivets? One method for permanently attaching the string to the cage is drilling a hole through one side of the tube, and using a blind "pop" rivet to create a point to wrap the stingaround. Rivets work fine, however they add cost and add weight.

I chose to drill through holes in the tube and thread the string through them.

The drilled hole leaves a burr - So I followed it up with a countersink to round the edge and remove the burr - and lastly, I smoothed the holes with coarse steel woolbefore threading the string through the holes

To get the thread through the holes in the tube, I super-glued a straight section of the line to act as needle for threading through the holes - it works great and is supersimple

Image Notes1. super-glued string2. super-glue3. super-glue catalyst

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Image Notes1. drilled hole

Image Notes1. polished / sanded hole

Image Notes1. De-burred / countersunk hole

Image Notes1. layout the holes

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Image Notes1. ragged cut edge

Image Notes1. melting the end

Image Notes1. hot melted mushroom

Image Notes1. flattened melted mushroom

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

Step 10: Hand ThrottleThe throttle needs to be little more than a hacked off bicycle handle with a brake lever, wrist-strap, and a momentary push button attached

Spare Parts:I made mine using a piece of aluminum tubing from a old broken ski pole, a plastic bicycle brake lever, piece of elastic band, and few miscellaneous parts.

Found Objects:Throttles from existing equipment like leaf blowers and such can also work well. What you want is something that will fit comfortably in your hand and wont interfere withyou controlling the paraglider

Wiring it up:The kill switch simply grounds out the coil for the spark plug -

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

Image Notes1. a dab of silicone to keep moisture off the contacts

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

Step 11: FuelThe fuel tank can be as simple or as complicated as you would like it to be. Some people use modified gas cans, or tanks from other powersport equipment, some maketheir own by bending and welding aluminum sheet, while others create custom composite tanks.

Fantastic Plastic:A plastic gas can is by far the easiest and cheapest solution for a DIY project like this. A composite tank may save a couple ounces, but it certainly isn't worth the time orcost for what were looking to do. I tested out a few different shapes, and found that squarest one fit the best on my frame - It was about $11 at a local hardware store

Size:Depending on the size of the motor, and what type of flying you are doing, many setups can easily get 90minutes of flight time on 2 .5 gallons of fuel.

5 gallons is the max capacity for a FAR 103 legal aircraft

more fuel = more weightStarting out, you will want to learn how to fly with only a relatively small volume of fuel in your tank - to help with the amount of weight you are carrying. Extra fuel addsweight quickly - Around 8lbs per gallon - 5 gallons = 40lbs

Tank location:Depending on the carburator, some tanks require gravity feed, where as others have built in pumps. This can determine where the tank must be located. The majority oftanks are located near the bottom of the paramotor, as it keeps the weight low. Some however, mount their tanks above the engine to take advantage of gravity flow.Wherever it it positioned, it should have ample clearance from the prop, and give your legs sufficient clearance to run for takeoff

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

Step 12: Harness / SeatBuying:Harnesses can be purchased new or used - this is one of the cases where making may actually be safer than buying used - the points at which the paraglider risersattach to the harness are know as "hangpoints" when you are in the air - they are the points from which you and the paramotor actually hang from the risers.

Older harness designs had the risers attach to webbing on the shoulder straps of the harness - newer setups utilize "fixed" hangpoints which are wider apart, and cant bepulled closer together in the event of riser twist.

Making:If you are on a tight budget, and already have experience with sewing, then making one isn't rocket science.

There are a number of designs for harnesses and means for attaching the harness to the frame. Again, rather than "reinventing the wheel", I recommend learning fromthat which is already out there and building off of it.

I already owned a free-flight paragliding harness, so I learned from a combination of it and existing PPG harnesses to create my own.

Materials:The strength of the seat actually comes from the webbing, and the seat board - the fabric really shouldn't have to support a lot of weight if designed properly.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

Image Notes1. Plywood seat-board2. Pattern made of Cardboard

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

Step 13: Reserve ParachuteWhy have one? Reserves have saved lives. Think of a reserve as cheap insurance you’ll probably never need. It's all about peace of mind.

How they Work:If ever your Paraglider collapses, and you are unable to get it to re-open - the handle on the reserve parachute deployment bag is grabbed, and the reserve parachute ispulled out with the handle. Once open, it slows the descent of the pilot and motor to a survivable fall.

Round Reserves:Most reserves are a round parachute with a single main line that splits into two at a " Y" bridle near the harness. The two ends attach to the shoulder straps of theharness, and the intent is strictly to slow your fall.

Steerable Reserves:Unlike the round reserves with a single line, steerable reserves have two risers so that once deployed - the pilot can steer the reserve parachute to try and avoid hittingtrees etc. The down side of most steerable reserves is that they are heavier than round reserves

The reserve parachute is meant as an extra measure of safety. Most pilots who have flow for many years will never have to use their reserve, but it is still a good thing tohave. Learning the ins- and outs of when to use a reserve parachute should be covered by an instructor allong with a simulated reserve deployment scenerio.

Some pilots choose not to fly with a reserve, for various reasons.

For a beginner starting out in the sport, I say that a reserve parachute is a must! After taking off for your first few flights, It will feel much more comfortable to be high inthe sky with lots of clearance from trees and the ground. In these scenarios, a reserve parachute is a good safety buffer to have, because you really never know whatcould happen.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

Step 14: Glidersit gives you wings!Different pilots have different brand preferences when it comes to gliders, however it is safe to say that all manufactures make better gliders today, than they did 10 or 15years ago.The fabrics used, and the geometries of new paragliders are leaps ahead of older gliders. I would highly recommend a relatively recent, used glider for someone startingout. Something which is very old will be difficult to launch and hard to control for an inexperienced pilot.

Used:Many instructors offer used gliders at a fraction of the price of new, and often in very good condition. Ordering a glider online can be risky, as you dont get to try it beforeyou buy it. Most instructors will allow you to try kiting a glider before you purchase it from them.

Size is everything:The size of the glider is also very important. With newer materials and better geometry, smaller gliders can be used to support the same, or more weight as older largergliders. A larger glider will typically go slower than a smaller glider, however, a larger glider has a greater ability to pull the pilot in stronger winds. This is another reasonfor buying something from an instructor, as they will help you with this decision, and understanding the details of different wings.

XS, S, M, L, XL, Tandem:Gliders are designed to work with a particular weight loading - based on the weight of the pilot, and the equipment he is using, the wing size should be chosenaccordingly

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

Step 15: Know the RulesIn the US , Paramotors fall under Federal Aircraft Regulation 103The full list of rules and regulations can be found here:http://www.ultralighthomepage.com/FAR.part103.html

In Canada , the laws are a bit stricter than in the US, and can be found here:http://www.tc.gc.ca/eng/civilaviation/publications/tp185-3-09-feature-729.htm

(FAR 103) - overview

(a) Is used or intended to be used for manned operation in the air by asingle occupant;(b) Is used or intended to be used for recreation or sport purposes only;(c) Does not have any U.S. or foreign airworthiness certificate; and(d) If unpowered, weighs less than 155 pounds; or(e) If powered:(1) Weighs less than 254 pounds empty weight, excluding floats and safetydevices which are intended for deployment in a potentially catastrophicsituation;(2) Has a fuel capacity not exceeding 5 U.S. gallons;(3) Is not capable of more than 55 knots calibrated airspeed at fullpower in level flight; and(4) Has a power-off stall speed which does not exceed 24 knots calibratedairspeed.

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Step 16: Haul ItSome people live in areas where they can literally take off from their back yard, where as others are required to travel to another location to take off. I know people whothrow their equipment on a four wheeler, and drive to a neighbors field to take off. I also know of people who have to drive 30 minutes to get to an airpark where they cantake off. For my setup, I built a simple hitch mounted platform that I can attach to the back of my car for transport. This allows me to keep the unit fully assembled, andeven allows me to run, and warm-up the engine with it attached to the back of my car.

People with pick-ups, and large vans, may be able to easily haul their fully assembled equipment as well.

A take-apart frame enables people without the means of hauling a fully assembled frame to break the cage apart for more compact transport and storage.

Image Notes1. The hitch for my car is a "class2" (1.25" x 1.25") I bought a length of 1.25"square steel tube and made the majority of it out of that.2. The black parts are ABS plastic - they are mostly just to make it easier to alignthe paramotor onto the rack while its on your back3. The latches I scratch built - They are simple "over center" lever latches. Sameprinciple as a lot of latches on hard cases (guitar cases, tool cases, tool boxes,etc) *see pic 3 and 4 for more details on how they work. An easier, less involved,solution would be to use locking toggle clamps like "destaco" brand or others - Ijust wanted something clean and flush

Image Notes1. I added a strip of ABS plastic to the surface the tube sits on to make it easierto slide the frame on and off. The latches hold the unit very securely, and thefriction of the paint on the frame tube wasn't ideal - I attached the ABS with astrip of high strength double back tape to try it out, and It worked so well Ihaven't even had to glue, screw, or rivet them on yet2. One of my original goals was to have the latch hang completely out of theway when open - to make it as easy as possible for getting the frame on and off

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

Image Notes1. Up position - enough clearance to hook over the frame tube

Image Notes1. Down position - tightly squeezing the tube against the rack

Image Notes1. The padlock is mainly so that the latch cant get hit and un-latched somehow -realistically its not the most secure design if you are worried about someonestealing your motor - as you can just back the adjusters all the way off andbypass the lock, but then again - I don't leave it on the back of my car where I'dbe worried about it getting stolen. My biggest fear is someone accidentallybacking into it in a parking lot or something similar

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

Image Notes1. rubber makes for a gentle but secure grip on the frame tubing

Image Notes1. A good example of where I didn't get it right on the first attempt

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

Step 17: Pre-flightBefore you take to the skies - there are a few last things to do-

If using a wooden prop, its smart to Safety wire the bolts to prevent them from vibrating loose. Plus it looks kinda cool, and is fun to do in small quantities :)

You want to check every bolt and strap to make certain nothing has loosened up - Its much easier to make corrections and adjustments to your equipment on the groundthan in the air.

If you are a relatively new pilot, or still not feeling completely comfortable with your equipment - get an experienced pilot to check through everything for you, and give youany further training needed to build your comfort level - ( by this I mean a genuine comfort with everything - Not an adrenaline fueled false sense of comfort )

If you aren't ready - don't rush it! You can never train too much

Image Notes1. The purpose of safety wire is to prevent the bolts from loosening - notice howthe direction of the wire prevents the bolt from turning counter-clockwise

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

Step 18: Get High!Once you have the proper training and good equipment, all that is left is to wait for good weather, and ride the wind :)

I remember reading once that it is good for PPG pilots to have multiple hobbies. Depending on where you live, you may have to wait a while to get good weather on a daywhere you have the free time to fly. Some people fly year-round in a wide variety of conditions, but for starting out, it is worth waiting for good weather. I remember gettingvery impatient waiting for the right conditions for my first flight, but I am sure glad that I did.

So get training, build/or buy safe equipment, be safe (and patient), and you'll have a blast. Send me picture, and maybe we can meet up and do some flying together.

Image Notes1. Thats me!

Step 19: After-thoughts & Lessons LearnedA friendly nudge of encouragement:I highly encourage people to attempt projects slightly beyond their comfort zone- I believe that it helps a person's skill level to develop more quickly and completely bothin a mental and physical sense. I will admit that this project was slightly more challenging than most of the projects I tackle, but I couldn't be happier that I did.

Plan and think through everything - and I can almost assure you that you'll still overlook something. Do a good amount of research, theorizing and tinkering before attempting to build the final thingAlso, never be afraid to scrap something because you see a better way of doing it, or it didn't turn out quite the way you would have liked the first time around- Thesecond (or third in some cases) attempt at most things will often yield far greater results.

Resourcefulness:I have always taken pride in not allowing my lack of available resources (tools, materials, money, space, etc. ) to prevent me from making or doing anything. I love comingup with creative alternative methods for doing things.

Despite my desire to do things as inexpensively and simply as possible, certain tools can dramatically reduce the amount of time required to do certain things. This in turncan allow a person to do more and better projects. I seem to never have enough time to do all the projects that I would like to, and I honestly believe that having a lasercutter would speed up a number of the tasks I find myself doing on a daily basis. If I were fortunate enough to win the laser cutter, I can guarantee that it will be well used.I recently cut out a bunch of intricate shapes in polypropylene sheet for a project with a jig saw - not only was the cutting out very time consuming, but I also had to de-burr all the edges after cutting the pieces which took even more time. Another project I have been wanting to work on requires laser cutting fabric. I had some samplescut for the project, but the closest place to me is about a 90 minute drive (I live in the boonies - [not NY city - western NY]) and most places aren't very open to doing"experimental projects" for someone who doesn't have a lot of money. So....bottom line is - I would love to win the laser cutter, and I can ensure it a safe and happy home:)

Thanks for reading though my instructable - I hope you enjoyed it, and hope to see you in the sky someday :)

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

Image Notes1. laser cut fabric

Image Notes1. jig-sawed polypro2. nasty burred edge

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Comments

50 comments Add Comment view all 155 comments

 jon-paul says:  Mar 5, 2013. 2:59 PM  REPLYhican you email me the plans for this unit as id like to build one with some students,pdf good or cad if possible.

regards jonjonsealey@hotmail.com

 Sky-Monkey says:  Mar 7, 2013. 7:39 PM  REPLYHi Jon,

Are you a teacher? if so what grade and subject? Tell me a bit about what your plans are.

Thanks for the interest,

Sky-Monkey

 Edymaico says:  Jan 25, 2013. 4:01 PM  REPLYHi, I have the design in 3D, builds with measures of SkyMonkey, he's in SolidWorks. If someone wants ..

 harrydw says:  Jan 10, 2013. 3:10 AM  REPLYIs it possible for me to get hold of the 3D frame design??

 Sky-Monkey says:  Jan 17, 2013. 5:09 AM  REPLYSend me a private message with your email address and what file 3D file formats you can read

 awesomecreations says:  Dec 23, 2012. 10:50 AM  REPLYHey, I have an old Paraglider in my roof...somewhere...

 lkryger says:  Dec 18, 2012. 10:15 AM  REPLYI want one

 TruthHunter says:  Jan 25, 2012. 2:35 PM  REPLYAfter looking at the Eggmotor project and some gokart sites, it looks like its possible to get about 14 hp out of the Honda clone engines for under $500. 14Hp should get you up ok unless your a big boy.

You have to add a new header and air intake, re jet the carb, polish the ports, increase the compression by using a gx160 head, advance the timing by filingthe flywheel key, and a few other minor tweaks. You should (they say) replace thestandard flywheel with an aluminum one. You don't want the flywheel to disintegrate at 7000 rpm!It might be possible to dispense with the flywheel to save weight, but you wouldhave to add a battery. see http://www.carrprecision.com/Pages/prod02.htm

The big issue is reduction drive. Eggmotor sells one for ~300 BP. Raket sellsone that might be adapted for 200 Euros. I did a search to see if I could find stock pulleys and belts etc, but didn't have much luck. Learning curve was a bitsteep.I couldn't find where the 180 Redhead was available. It ought to be importable for paramotoring but isn't legal for other apps.

BTW, if you want to fly cheaper, you might consider a nano-trike. The wing might be easier to build than sewing a parasail. It might be easier to get right!

 kugelfang says:  Dec 10, 2012. 2:04 AM  REPLYHello, I'm Eggmotor member...if you still looking for a reduction drive, I can make it for you, for any ratio..:)you can contact me at arifdarmawan9@yahoo.com. Thanks

 skifreak720 says:  Nov 21, 2012. 11:32 PM  REPLYplease, please, please do the instructable on the helmet. It looks soooooooooo cool!

 Vilém says:  Oct 23, 2012. 9:11 PM  REPLYHi, How thick wall pipe?

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

 Sky-Monkey says:  Nov 4, 2012. 1:30 PM  REPLYEMT conduit is about 0.050" (1.3mm) thick wall steel tubing.

Depending on the design of the frame and the material that you are using, heavier or thinner may be better. ( Aluminum would need to be thicker )

 merseyless says:  Oct 13, 2012. 1:28 AM  REPLYExcellent instructable! Would it be possible to get the 3D model you used to make this Paramotor?

 Sky-Monkey says:  Oct 17, 2012. 2:57 PM  REPLYSend me a private message with your email address and the type of 3D software you will be using.

 JFreitas says:  Oct 16, 2012. 3:29 PM  REPLYHi there,I'm a paragliding pilot and a student of Aerospace engeneering. I saw your project and I realy like it.Me and my group have to make a solidworkds project and we are thinking to make a project of a paramotor. I would like to ask if you can send me themeasures of your paramotor (all rights will be reserved). We will not copy. We just want a general idea of a paramotor project.Then we can share an ideas.Please contact me: jfgfreitas@gmail.comBest Regards.Congrats.

 ryanrall10 says:  Jul 17, 2012. 6:38 PM  REPLYsky Monkey , GREAT VIDEO !!Expertly edited . Iam going to builld one :^)

 Sky-Monkey says:  Aug 7, 2012. 10:18 AM  REPLYGlad to hear. I'd love to see pictures/videos of it and/or with it. Best of luck, and please ask if you have any questions

 pabros says:  Sep 10, 2012. 6:39 AM  REPLYI have two question. I see you use a Sky Glider. As far as i know most of the paramotoring Glides/wings are the same used for paragliding (andviceversa).

I have an ATIS Sky XS (DHV 1-2) 2003 modelHere you can see the specs: http://www.para2000.org/wings/sky/atis.html

My questions are:How much does this kit weight?Can i use this with my glider? (its a 55-75kg glider and i weight 55kg)

Thanks and sorry for my bad english!

 Sky-Monkey says:  Sep 10, 2012. 8:21 PM  REPLYThe complete frame with engine, prop, reserve parachute, and harness weighs about 25kg once you add fuel figure around 30kg.

The only real difference between paragliding gliders and powered paragliding gliders is the riser - that being said they can be usedinterchangeably

As a very generalized rule of thumb, you can figure the smaller the wing and the heavier the weight loading, the faster it will fly and the morepower you will need to climb.

Also with a faster wing the take-off and landing speeds are proportionately faster, and more difficult for a new pilot.

To answer your question, Yes you could fly your glider with a paramotor, however I would recommend learning on a bit larger wing that will be abit slower and more forgiving of learning.

Best of luck, and please ask if you have any further questions.

 heavyair52 says:  Jul 19, 2012. 8:03 PM  REPLYHi Sky-Monkey! One of the best DIY paramotor cages I've seen. How much does the cage weigh without engine? Also, what brand of engine are you using?Thanks!

 Sky-Monkey says:  Aug 7, 2012. 10:15 AM  REPLYThe complete painted frame weighs 16.9lbs - Being that it is all one-piece you save the weight of connectors and overlapping tubing.

I was pleasantly surprised with the overall weight of the unit, especially as it is made of hardware store materials.

The motor is a 185cc Vittorazi Moster: http://www.vittorazi.com/en-us/?chiave=Moster-185-Vittorazi

Thanks for the complements

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

 sschanze says:  Nov 17, 2011. 8:14 AM  REPLYIf you spend upwards of $5200 building something you don't know anything about, wouldn't it be more logical to call U-Turn USA and spend $6000-$7000on the best used equipment on the market? There are literally hundreds and hundreds of little details on the construction of the unit that have been learnedfrom years and year of experience from the master pilots and designers. If you build your own you become your own test pilot. The #1 most important part ofyour safety is actually the paramotor as long as you fly a certified wing. So building your own makes no sense at all. One tiny detail you simply didn't knowbecause you don't have 10,000 flights yourself could easily cause your death. When the price difference between getting a used Flat Top or trying to buildone is so small, it makes no sense to throw out all the safety of having experts do it for no good reason. Plus if you figure in the time it takes you to makeyou end up right back to where it costs less to buy one.

Then comes in power to weight ratio. Those that build their own units end up with having 20 lbs more weight than a high end Flat Top. 20 lbs makes a worldof difference in balance and weight on your back and the speed you can run. If you are still alive you might think you got away with building your own but it isa horribly bad idea. Back in the 1970s pretty much everyone built their own and were self taught. That's why still today the horrific reputation for a lack ofsafety exists. In fact ZERO people have ever died on WPPGA certified paramotor gear. Build it yourself and all that safety goes right out the window only tosave... what? Nothing? I'm the current WPPGA Paramotor World Champion and have been in this sport for a very long time. It would be insane to build yourown setup when you don't know what you don't know.

 heavyair52 says:  Jul 19, 2012. 8:28 PM  REPLYDisregard sschanze comments above! Look for Dell Schanze comments at footflyer.com. Dell Schanze is saying he is champion of WPPGA. It's hisOWN organization! He is also the owner of Flat Top paramotors and as such has a vested interest in discouraging DIY paramotors.

 bajabeetle says:  Nov 17, 2011. 2:22 PM  REPLYHaha, why build it? Look where you just posted man. This is instructables.com bro, we build 'em because we can.

Settle down and enjoy a donut http://www.instructables.com/id/Krispy-Kreme-Donut-Doughnut-Recipe/

 itsjustmescotty says:  Nov 17, 2011. 12:37 PM  REPLYI signed up just so I could reply to yours.First point, tell it to the Wright brothers.I do things MY way for MY own satisfaction and experience Just because everyone else. . . doesn't make it the right way or correct for me.For hundreds of years houses were constructed with wood pegs and/nails - NOW if you don't have thousands of dollars worth of Simpson Strong Tiesyou fail inspection. BTW a lot of those old houses are still standing and functional.I have a machine shop and make rather than buy - it gives me satisfaction, takes up some of my time and can cost ever so much more than retail but it'ssatisfying.I'm going to stop here and I hope you get my point. Let those that want to, do it

 ShadyLogic says:  May 25, 2012. 1:57 PM  REPLYAwesome Instructable, awesome video, and awesome choice of BOTAR for the music!

 guddagudda2 says:  Feb 26, 2012. 1:29 PM  REPLYyes please post how to make the carbon fiber helmet

 saroz9 says:  Feb 25, 2012. 1:26 PM  REPLYthanks

 Northern Skyrat says:  Jan 10, 2012. 6:55 PM  REPLYAwesome vid Sky-Moneky and great see you doing your own design/build. I design automation equipment for a living and am inspired to build my ownparamotor. I fly a Walkerjet RR. Your design bears a fair bit of similarity to the Walkerjet. I fly in Western New York with Andy Ekstrom.

I live in Hamilton, Ontario so it's only about 160 miles away. It would be great if we could hook up and do some flying. I have one question; do you useSolidWorks or Inventor for your 3D modeling and design.

Take care,Mike

 Sky-Monkey says:  Jan 11, 2012. 10:03 PM  REPLYAlthough I use SolidWorks a fair bit for work, I actually used Rhino for the frame. I wasn't planning on doing any FEA work or anything fancy with it. I justwanted a quick way to plan out how I was going to put it together and generate some dimensions.This is my first scratch-built frame, so I figured it would be smart to mimic aspects of tried and true designs before trying anything overly radical anddifferent (although eventually I have plans to)

It would be great to meet up with you guys and do some flying. Let me know when you are out this way-

 7808 says:  Jan 11, 2012. 3:22 PM  REPLYone of the best instructables ive read, i was super excited when i read $200, then after reading it more i was still just excited ha.

how hard is paramotoring to pick up for someone that has never done it before? how dangerous is it as far as loosing control due to some kind of wind gustor other thing out of your control? the closest thing ive done is probably parasailing behind a boat which requires no skill obviously.

also why did you use conduit, besides weight and cost, id think it would be pretty easily bent/damaged compared to some slightly thicker-walled steel tubingfor probly not much more weight.. maybe not. im sure aluminum would be ideal but i only have a mig welder.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

 7808 says:  Jan 11, 2012. 3:31 PM  REPLYalso is there any alternatives for a motor besides one build specificaly for it, and how critical is it that the motor never or almost never stalls ? how muchdo those motors weigh? when i was looking at then a year or so ago, i figured they cost so much because the engine high power to weight and must besuper-precision so that it never fails during flight. some 50-150cc dirtbike motors are pretty light and way cheaper, maybe a larger displacement r/c carengine? chainsaw? small snowblower?

 Sky-Monkey says:  Jan 11, 2012. 9:52 PM  REPLYKeep in mind that the $200 doesn't include the expensive pieces (engine, wing, and reserve parachute)Paramotoring isn't inherently difficult, however it requires a bit of coordination, time, patience, and practice of proper technique and judgement.Starting out, you should never fly in conditions beyond your skill level. If the wind is gusting, or stronger than what you are comfortable flying in, thenyou stay on the ground. Conditions can change while you are in the air, but all things considered, it is a safe sport so long as the proper precautionsare taken.Compared to the tubing that many paramotor frames are made of, conduit is significantly stronger as it is. Seriously - it is like a tank compared tosome commercially sold frames. If designed properly, the frame should be able to be made of thinner walled tubing, however I used conduit becauseit is inexpensive and readily available.The motor cutting out simply means that you will glide back down - as long as you are flying close to a safe landing zone, engine outs aren't a bigsafety concern.Motors from other stuff can be modified to work, and it has been done. Most any engine will need a reduction to bring the engine RPM down to auseable speed for the prop used.If you read through some of the other comments below, there is a lot that goes into the engines for these thingsLet me know if I missed answering anything

 sgt_rock says:  Jan 4, 2012. 8:15 AM  REPLYI love this instructable! There seems to be a lot of differences in power ratings for cubic centimeter engines. I've seen 200 CC rated at 6.5HP and some at11HP. Roughly what HP rating should we be looking for (and I'm about 250 LBs and looking at a more powerful pusher).

Thanks for the time and this instructable, I too am inspired to build this.

 Sky-Monkey says:  Jan 4, 2012. 9:27 PM  REPLYEngine size and performance could easily make for a instructable unto itself - Ultimately what you want is effective thrust.

In an ideal world, you should be able to simply calculate thrust directly from horse power, and horse power should be proportionate to engine size.Unfortunatley however, there are a number of factors that play into the ultimate thrust like reduction ratios, max engine rpm, prop pitch, prop size, drag,etc. and it isn't quite that simple. To further complicate things, many manufacturers fudge numbers to make things seem more impressive than they reallyare, and ultimately it is tough to guess what you should or shouldn't believe. Engines designed specifically for paramotors are going to produce morethrust per weight and displacement than most engines designed for something else.

I would say that you wouldn't want anything less than 150cc minimum - and likely prefer something in the 180 - 200cc range150 (actual) lbs of thrust should get you in the air no problem

To further confuse you - the thrust requirement is proportionate to the wing size. The larger the wing you are flying, the less thrust you need to get up andstay up. If you are flying a small wing, you will need to be moving faster to generate the same amount of lift, and ultimately get into the air and stay in theair.

This is probably a lengthier response than you were hoping for, but unfortunately there isn't a simple and quick answer. Feel free to ask for moreclarification on anything. I'm happy to help

 Conrad_Turbo says:  Nov 18, 2011. 1:05 PM  REPLYI concur this is the best instructable I have ever seen. Almost inspires me to build one...not sure what my wife would say! One thing to note, some of yourshots of the welds shows some bubbles/pin hole defects. If you want to improve your weld strength and reduce the defects due to the plating, dip the parts inmuriatic acid (easy to buy from a hardware store) to prep it for welding. It etches the plating off and leaves clean bare material to weld. Also welding conduitgives off terrible fumes and the muriatic acid eliminates that. The metal just has to be rinsed with water and then wiped down with alcohol prior to welding.

The amount of stress those welds go under I would assume are quite low, however the majority of stress would be from vibration and those defects (cracks)won't show up for quite some time.

I want to build one of these...

 steveastrouk says:  Dec 30, 2011. 2:48 AM  REPLYGood tip, because it will ALSO clean the zinc inside the tube as well, which is nigh on impossible to shift mechanically.

 Sky-Monkey says:  Nov 18, 2011. 3:27 PM  REPLYGreat suggestion - In the past, I've sanded the zinc off - but even while wearing a mask, knew that it wasn't a good method.

I put a paragraph in the frame step about zinc poisoning and precautions, and doing the welding outdoors with good ventilation. - removing the zinc withthe acid would improve that issue dramatically.

Thanks

 2 stroke says:  Dec 2, 2011. 7:37 PM  REPLYyeah he is right lol i got sick welding conduit before lol drinking milk alot helps when you do get sick helps

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-and-Fly-a-Paramotor/

 Sky-Monkey says:  Dec 3, 2011. 10:31 AM  REPLYBest to avoid getting sick in the first place if you can - zinc poisoning is nothing to mess around with.

In fact, enough exposure to many types of particles can be serious. A plumber I know acquired copper poisoning from years of installingplumbing. He needed a liver transplant and everything. Not good.

Moral of the story - take the extra time and precautionary measures to protect your health

 Conrad_Turbo says:  Nov 18, 2011. 8:34 PM  REPLYYes because the plating is on the inside as well...so using the acid it would remove it from the inside and outside at the same time. The hardest partis doing this to a section that you can't have sit in the acid, a paint brush works but I usually just sand it as you would.

Are the engines for these easy to find/buy? Or are they specific to this application?

 Sky-Monkey says:  Nov 18, 2011. 10:04 PM  REPLYThe majority of engines used in the sport are purpose built for paramotors - here is a very general overview of some of the previous engines outthere: http://footflyer.com/Equipment/Engines/powerplants.htm

Because it is still somewhat of a niche sport in the US, the prices are quite high with little competition. Used engines can be found somewhatmore reasonably on forums, and even ebay sometimes, but its somewhat of a gamble ordering something used from someone likely far away

There are some people who have modified engines from dirt bikes, and even generators to work, but so far, most aren't ideal. They end up beingphysically larger - which means there is more weight hanging further away from your back, and that the cage has to be larger to protecteverything. I know a guy in Thailand who modifies 150cc Yamaha motorcycle engines with good results - But I haven't yet used one.

There is also an Asian import engine the "redhead180" which I have heard good things about, and it retails for only around $1800 new

One of my next projects is to come up with a lower cost alternative engine, so I'll be sure to post progress on that as I make any.

 White lynx says:  Dec 10, 2011. 7:58 AM  REPLYis there any eco frendly method in the engine system like water as fuel or air

 Sky-Monkey says:  Dec 10, 2011. 8:19 AM  REPLYThere are electric paramotor setups - however, the batteries are expensive, they are heavier than a gasoline powered equivalent, and they don't havevery good range/flight time

As battery technology continues to improve, I can certainly see them becoming more popular and more affordable. Until then, gasoline continues to bethe preferred alternative

 luig says:  Dec 5, 2011. 10:19 AM  REPLYwell i have a question. if instead of adding a parachute is it possible to accomplish flight with an engine of similar size and a hang-glider or does it take morepower?

 Sky-Monkey says:  Dec 7, 2011. 8:37 AM  REPLYThe power requirement varies drastically depending on a few factors -elevation, wing size, wing efficiency, wind speed. There are a few motorized hang glider setups available such as the "mosquito." The "Altigenerator"concept http://www.altigenerator.nc/motorized_hang_glider.htm is more along the lines of what you are talking about - essentially a paramotor attachedto a hang-glider

 luig says:  Dec 8, 2011. 6:46 PM  REPLYthanks for the info.

 Matt Carl says:  Dec 7, 2011. 1:17 PM  REPLYStreetlight Manifesto background music on the video, great choice :D

 Sky-Monkey says:  Dec 7, 2011. 2:47 PM  REPLYThanks, technically it was recorded under the band "Bandits of the Acoustic Revolution" - but essentially you are correct - A number of the samemusicians- and Streetlight Manifesto performs the song live.

 juicymoose says:  Nov 29, 2011. 10:58 PM  REPLYi really want to make it. could you make the instructable about the helmet?or would a decathalon ski/snowborad one do?

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