I

{II

Brewers' Guardian. December 1995

toapnao panuquoS

eceld aq1 uror;1q8r.r parelocer eq uecuoqereda.rd pooJ ruo-g peleeJc slJqep lueld'alerurTJ drp dleue4xe s,1&{Eg ol s{wqleArAJns senlf, luegodurt lsour aq;

.17am&t)

(JS 00II-0991) urop8ury ̂\eN aql palp3porrad e 'untusq{u?lnJ

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Jeaq

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I pue 'Eutrterq;o

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anq apow anm poatqpuotaaq pql sqsa&8ns 'qassaa togo( aaq?ulls?p

q1tn,nqqa&o1'aruapxaa stg's,oqur,Drlc,topwls to s,r,oog[ aql uto,t{ pataaocat.

atam [oqc puo utot? lwng 'putpu,tv

lo alts aq1 p xa1@aoc uaqcLtq aNwE o lo Uodsx tlrxqnx,aEu.oqc n lo lyom auo auq suaao

asaqJ'uu 9z s|. ap?s aql u0 uots\aNp q?pg's&utspc qn q pnw. ut suaao Tocrlpuqtc

to1c aEnT aatql :8utma.tq tot acuapr,aaToct&oyoamqc,to Eut oaocu2' g atn?1g

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q app ryog 'ou.lpaw-p t.laq puo ou.tpwv

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safis onJ'MGgIo (nytr :({al I at@i

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'lle1y\ se {ulrpo1 pmbrl elqerleJ lsotu eql ,tlqeqo;d se,t.1I 'slB^rlseJ

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it1rcp e seao, 'pearq r{lllr ;aq1a8ol'Jeeq l?ql .&roqs slueuncop puesuorldr.rcsur uerlddEg JNSIJN

lcelord oql u! pa^lo u! ],uo,l uollcolap oq] aqucsoppll Fulnerg eFernoC qsHocs to llog rolod pue lonues ue ̂teo 'uelpreng

,sro/r,rorg rol elclue e^lsnlcxo slrll ul 'oFe sreef oog't lsoule unueqluemlJo orull oql lB se/t^ il se ssocord Fulmerq eql Jo FulpueFrepun oql'poseotcu!fiqerep;suoc seq 'sreef o^U 1sed eql re^o 'qclqn dgqsreuyed e p FuluulFeqaql se/llsltll'ldfF3 tuolcue u! Fulleu-rooq olu! uolle'llsenu! ue qcunel ol

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meq uelld,{Ffilelcue Fulm^ocslpeu

AeolotvHcuv cNlrntua

BREWING ARCHAEOLOGY

RediscoverinsanciefitEgptian beerContinuzdfrom page 27

where it fell, and separated from the sur-rounding dirt using a flotation machine.Plant remains and rare traces of preparedfoods are well preserved in Egypt's ariddeserts. The brewing project can there-fore make a detailed study of actualancient beer residues and of the by-prod-ucts generated in beer produclion (figure3).

The flotation machine operates on thesimple principle that light organic matterwill float on the surface of water, whileheavy silt, sand and gravel will sink. Inthis way, the plant remains scatteredthroughout the earth excavated fromarchaeological sites can be easily separat-ed. A careful record of the location of eachsoil sample is made. This means that theancient seeds, chaff and other pieces ofplant can be related to the tools which hadbeen used to process them. In addition,the rooms or work areas where food pro-

Figure 4. Flotation retrieaes ancient plantremains. A close-up uiew of the flotationmachine, based on an oil drum. Soil fromarchaeological excauation is poured into thewater. The heauy, inorganic portion sinksand the light plant material floats. It isguided ouer the weir, through the spout, andcaptured in the sieaes. The sludge is drainedaway through a tap at the bottom of themachine. Desiccated oliue leaues fromAmama's Christian Coftic leaels (4th-6thcentury AD) are recoaered in this sample

28

WWwcessing took place can be pinpointed (fA-ure 4).

There are two sources of food remains.One has already been mentioned: theofferings placed in tombs to provide thedead with food for the afterlife. Largequantities of foodstuffs have been recov-ered from a variety of such tombs. Thesecond place to find food is in the debris ofancient settlements, produced and dis-posed of by the people who lived and atethere.

Residues from settlements are usuallyretrieved in very small amounts, often asthin crusts on broken pot sherds. Vastquantities of broken pots are excavatedfrom archaeological sites. On a tiny pro-portion, the contents of their last use havehappeneil to adhere and survive to thepresent day (figure 5),

Not all residues are derived from brew-ing, so how is it possible to tell whichcame from ancient beer? There are twopossible indications. Firstly, brewingwould have involved the production of liq-uids and wet masses. A dark line on theinterior wall of a vessel, for example,above a solid mass which has shrunk awayinto the base, shows that the original con-tents have reduced substantially due toevaporation.

More conclusively, shreds of bran orchaff are clues that cereal is an ingredientof the residues. It is reasonable to assumethat most cereal-based residues whichoriginally had a high water content werederived from brewing - beer was theprime cereal food along with bread.

What was used to brew?Whole grain, chaffand bran shreds have

answered the question of which cerealswere used for brewing. Both barley andemmer wheat have been identified in the

Figure 3. Emmer wluat, ancimt andmad-ern. On thc lefi are modzm emmer spikehtsand on thc right, dcsiccated anrientEgttptian emrner spikelets. Apartfrom thcdarhened cohur of the ancient spikekts, theruemblante is striking, highlighting theercellent freseraation of mganic remains inEgfit's arid climate. Emmer is a ffie ofarchaic cereal knoun as hullpd whcat,because whcn threshzd th.e ear breaks upinto thzse spihelcts. Further oigorous pro-cusing is needtd to break open the toughchaff and release tlu grain insidz. Althoughancicnt Egfutian cereals l.ook so similar tothcir rnodcm counterParts, they are inca-pable of gennination now. The agingprouss has darnagedthe proteins anddcstroled. enzyme actiui$.

ancient beer remains. Usually, just one orthe other cereal was used by itself, butsometimes both were mixed together. Wecan't say yet whether the Egyptians had apreference for emmer or barley. Thechoice of cereal might have depended onthe type of beer they wanted to make.

Fermentation is obviously a key part ofbrewing, Fermentation micro-organismsare far too small to be detected with thenaked eye'or low power magnification. Tofind evidence for this crucial ingredient,the scanning electron microscope (SEM)has been used. This tool allows the studyof greatly magnified views of surfaces.Large yeast colonies have been found insome residues. Clumps of bacteria havealso been detected in some ancient dregs.These might well be lactic acid bacteria,but cannot be identified by morphologyalone. Micro-organisms of any type havevery rarely been detected in the archaeo-logical record before.

A question which is still being explored

Brewers' Guardian, December 1995

6Z

'a(ocsotctw aq1 qltn Pasi1ououaqrn uotlounolut panqaP aatf uPc

anptsat pool{o putE sttll lo sE(wos 11otusfun1 'qoatat

to apuw uaaq paq qualuoc

Tout&tto aq1&tnonput 'alqtsla anm uu'qpunl{or1clo spatqs tu11 'uoNlDuNuora asop

uO 'asfl $vI s1t wott&tuaqpo anpNsat paup

to 6nn E?lql o soq I 'a1qnm n&u.q ousompup aEorqpssaa aql asfltnaq t1qoqot(

'(wnp qs.tqqru' uo11(Gg Paltuo uou.r papfi?slp svm ptaqs p( xW 'Dtuotltv

wot{ anptsa.t ,taaq ruanw 'g am7lg

69 a&o(uo panuluog-ord;o saEels lualeglp IsJe^es eql pelapo1 a8ualleqc B aq usJ 11 'fl1eutg 'ared-Iuoc 01 lFcslp senplseJ IBnpuPw se{BlusrqJ 'raeq;o sad,$ luaJaJJIp Iuo4 etuocfeql esnecaq:o ecuanbas Euma;q aq1ur sa8els lueJeglp ol anp eJe senplsal ulseJuaJes.rp Jeqlew$ rl\ou)l 01 alqtssod 1ousr 1I 1ue$e pe{u[ e o1 dpo 1nq 'papeaut

eABq sppolu serunetuos'uonlpuoc 1ca;raduBql ssel ur ueuo are rtaql 1eq1 Eutsud-ms lou sl ll 'plo sreaf 969'9 ueql eJouaJB senplseJ lueIOuB 3I{1 eculs'q8noqlsuralqord Jo Jaqrunu B eJB eJaql

' (g au8g[ aas) sluellrlea.q Eutssec-o:d lsed Jo pJocal elqenleAul ue seAJes-ard qcrels lualcus stlJ 'senplser eql uIpelJesqo ueeq eABq sa8ueqc qcns esneceq'raaq luarcue;o fpnls aq1 o1 luerraler d1-lJeIIp sl spooJ luepou uo {Jo1r\ pcFr{puv'ntrgs eqt qlvt pellods fllsee ere esarl]

sB qcns se8ueq3 'Jeqlous euo olut fie1a1d-uoc a8raur [1en1ueaa - luaserd sI JelB/$q8noue yr - pue ruJolep 'len5sapuw8 eql'Jelar\ uI peleaq sI qcJBls UeIIIUqel eJesfieqs .lvlolloq [Iuo 'd11en1uaag 'sepuur8

e8rel uo slauuel{r pue sltd elueJf, aseqJ'saleunure8 1r uaqirr urerE etp eplsu aARJBeuoceq saurtzue 'eldurexe rod 'spoqlau

Eurssaoord o1 Eurprocce saEueqc seln-uerE qcrels Jo eJnlcnJls eqi lBtD peqsl-q4se sBrl ,{.r1snpur pooJ uJepou eqJ

'selnue.r8 qcrels

JO eJnlcnJlsoJJIIU eql ul parrrese.rd stlq8nos er\ qcnln uoqeulloJul Eutssaco:daqJ '[BeJec

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aq 01 per{ sureruer leaq eql Jo eln}3nJlscrdocso:cnu aql 'uorlsanb lFcgJIp eJoluluql relrrsus oJ 'pesn arern sluetper8utasorn ll'\oq/t\ou)l 01 IIIB/Y\ oSIe e \ lng 'slue-rpar5ur lnoqe aJolu qcnru Eurnouq o1 i{errreql uo IIal\ ale arY\'s8arp luatcue uI sluelu-Eer; 1ue1d Jo uoItBrIJIlu"Ot "UJrT3llU

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'1pur Eurpnycut- s?rlrporuuof, snoIJBA epnlJul Plnocsrqg',Eurq1 leelr\s, sr fltltqtssod ptleaJaqloue lnq ',selep, se pelardralut ueaq d1-pnsn sBrI 1I 'saJJnos cqsqJ? pue Ireluaur-ncop ur reeq qlllY\ palBlcosse dpuanba4sr lI '.Jerrueq, pactmouord 'prorrr repcqrede Jo uorlBlsuBJl aql sI slql JoI ecuapl^eureru aqJ 'luatpar8ut clseq B eJe$ seleplsqt e^eqeq slsr8ololdf8g fuetr41'sreaq01 pappB arearr s8urrno^eu Jerltraq.& sl

966I raquece0'uepJBnC,sJa/r\eJg

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uaApd iubs aq1 fyaqcat1 pag( [paoaq an g an8tg ut unoqs Pqt ol .tDINwNs mptsat wo4salnuott t4ctols p7o-,oat-gggE asag 'Etr.t11ow yattuo to{ acuaptaa t(ocsonqry '9 att6tg

AOOIOlfwlCUV

BREWING ARCHAEOLOGY

RediscoveringancientE$yptian beerContinued from page 29

c e s s i n g w h i c h e a c h r e s i d u e p a s s e dthrough. If grain was treated differently,and then mixed together, the evidencebecomes highly complicated.

To overcome these difficulties in inter-pretation, each individual residue is exam-ined as thoroughly as possible. All avail-

able information is compared, such asamounts of chaff or vessel type. Majoradvances have been made in the under-standing of ancient Egyptian brewing bycarefu l s tudy of s tarch microstructure,comparison to SEM studies from the mod-ern food industries, and analysis of all therelevant archaeological data.

Ancient Egyptian maltingSome Egyptologists have proposed that

a particular word in the ancient Egyptianlex i con , p ronounced 'beshaw ' , meansmalt. The evidence of pits and channels onstarch granules in the ancient residues,together with rare finds of sprouted grain,shows that malting was indeed a basic partof the ancient Egyptian brewing proce-dure. It is possible to draw conclusions

Figure 8l Analytical results of the micro malted emmel wheatn oompared tothe modern industry standard whfte barley malt

Parameter

MoistureIOB Fine Extract (l/kg, dry base)IOB Fine Extract (14<g as is)Wort pHSoluble nitrogen (ValOB fine extract)Malt total nitrogen (7o dry base)Free amino nitrogen (mg/l fine extract)IOB wort viscosity (fine extract, cP)Diastatic power ( IOB)Aipha amylase DU

Emmer wheat White Malt

4.4285272c.v

0.50, /'l tr,

911.54o ?10

4.03112985.800.651.65130I ,5U8050

Figure 9. Microscopy euidence for ancient cereal cooking. This ancient starch comes fromresidue on another ancient Egtptian pottery uessel. A few indiuidual starch granwles areuisible in the lower left corner, but most granules haue fwsed together into a solid glassyJook-ing block. This appearance is typical of starch which has been heated in water. The scale atlower right is l0 miuons.

30

Hgure 7. Process conditionsused in a micro malting trial of

emmer wheat.

Steeo cl'cle16 hours wet at 18'C25 hours dry at 16'C3 hours wet at 14'C

Germination temperature12-13.C

Total wet orocess time140 hours

KilnIsothermal at 70"C for 16 hours

well beyond this simple statement, how-

Only viable, uncooked grain will sprout,so malting must have been an early step.Since there is a high risk of damaging bar-

. ley in the course of removing or shreddingthe tightly fused chaff, it must have beengerminated in the husk.

Emmer wheat , too, must have beensprouted in the husk. Unlike free-thresh-ing wheats used virtually exclusively inmodern times, the chaff of emmer wheatis very difficult to break up, and needs vig-orous processing, an act iv i ty l ike ly todamage the embryo.

Would emmer wheat have made goodmalt by today's standard? To determineth is , Phi l l ip Morra l l a t Moray Fi r thMaltings carried out a micro malting trialof some modern emmer wheat, kindlygrown and made available by the NationalInst i tu te of Agr icu l tura l Botany inCambridge. Figure Z shows the processconditions used which are a typical mod-ern malting cycle. His test showed thatthe average moisture content of the grainduring germination was 48Va, a level sur-prisingly similar to modern barley malting.Even the grains encased in their thickhusks germinated well. After 24 hoursgermination, the malt had a slight lactictaste, which is a characteristic often asso-ciated with wheat malts.

Figure 8 compares the analytical resultsof the emmer wheat malting trial with atypical modern white malt. The extract onthe emmer is surprisingly high consider-ing that about 50Vo of the corns weresheathed .in ear material. The total nitro-gen content of the emmer wheat malt isconsiderably higher than malted modernwheat or barley varieties. The free aminonitrogen level indicates lower levels ofproteases in wheat. The generally lowerlevel of enzymes is shown in the lowdiastatic power and alpha amylase activity.

Different brewing methodsMany ancient Egyptian residues contain

heavily channelled starch granules, indi-cating extensive enzyme attack during

Brewers' Guardian, December 1995

II

Sutma,tq,taaq uoqffiEgryarluo to uoxlJnqsuoJat palsa77ns

o Sutmoqs wn,tSotp rxlowaqrs :gy a,m7tg

'aBualpqc Furlrcxalxau eql sapu.o.rd luaurdrnbe uJeporu puesluerpa-r8ur crlueqlne Sursn ;eaq uer1d.{EgJUerlue ,/!\aJq o] .r(1run1;oddo aq1

'syeu1 3ur

fi3H/n UtnwSruvd tNo

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adrroJ luarJue aqt Fulleorcag'-reaq uerldd8g luarcue;o sad.{l

peueu er{l Jo duetu ;o; lunoccu lq8rrusrqJ 'talruJur{J

lueraJJrp Jo sJeeq alearc .{1-uregar pino,&\ lr 'uor1ela.rfua1ur

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'(6 am-3$ :eeq.ro; -reqla8o1 paxnu Furaq a,ro;eqs.r{e,Lr 1ua.ra;;rp ur peleaJl se,Lr ure.r8 1eq1slsa8Ens oslp enprsal errres er{l ur qcJeJSparell?un dlalalduroc qlrlvr qrrpls pasnJ Joacuase,rd er{J 'peleeq pue paualsrou ueaqseq qcrr{,r\ lsr_r8 .ro ure.r8 ;o ecue.readdeoql qlr^\ saqcletu srrlJ 'xrrJeru 3ur>1oo1-.{sse13 'prlos e uruluoc osle senprseJ eseql;o .{uetr41 'uru.r8 pelno_rdsun pue lleru qloqqlJllt aperu uaeq a^eq .,{eu: _raeq uerldd8gJuerlue 1eq1 slse8Ens slqJ .qc;e1s Bur->1oo1-aurlsr,rd qlr,tr ;eq1e3o1,uorleurur.ra8

AOOIOSVHCUV ONmlU8

RS'Volume 124 No 12

DECEMBER 1995ffi

uality in perfection:

Besides high product quality, at

STEINECKER quality mana-

gement is also a decisive factor

in satisfying customers.

The entire order handling process

has been optimized with

respect to maximum flexibility,

response to customer

wishes and absolute quality safety.

For this achieve-

ment TUV Bavaria awarded

STEINECKER the

highest professional distinction:

rso 9001.

For us it represents a commitment

for the future.

Anton SteineckerMaschinenfabrik GmbH

Raifieisenstr. 30,D-85318 Freising,GermanyPhone(081 61) 953-0,Fax (081 61) 953-150

Quality in perfection:TUV CERT ISO 9OO1

sTEINEE]rERFor further information please contact our representatives:

GREAT BRITAIN:KRONES UK LTD.Westregen House, Great Bank Road,Wingates lndustrial Park, Westhougton,Bolton BL5 3XB lrelandPhone (01942) 840044, Fax(O1942)841414 Phone (01)808508, Fax(01) 808033

IRELANDA & M PROCESS MACHINERY LTD.95 Seapoint Avenue,Monkstown Blackrock, Co Dublin,