BQ2 Scotland summer 13 Food and Drink

SPECIAL REPORT: FOOD & DRINK IN SCOTLANDCULINARY QUEST Cooking up a storm in the restaurant sector

FOOD FOR THOUGHT How the industry can reach its global potential

HONEYPOT EFFECT The rise of tourist hotspots for foodie families

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03

For the food and drink industry in Scotland,

the story is extremely positive. Yes, there are

challenges as there are in any sector – take

salmon farming where growth is being stifled

by the planning system. In the red meat sector

there are also frustrations in that the demand

for Scotch beef, lamb and pork is there, but

farmers – after the worst winter for many

years – are farming fewer animals. In terms of

exports, there is a realisation that the industry

needs to look beyond Europe. Food and drink

is Scotland’s fastest-growing export sector but

firms need to tap into emerging markets like

China and the Middle East. Industry leadership

organisation Scotland Food & Drink and

Scottish Development International (SDI) are

working in partnership to identify new markets

and create solutions. There is also recognition

within the sector that the Scottish Government

is firmly on its side with Richard Lochhead MSP,

the Cabinet Secretary for Rural Affairs and the

Environment, a proud standard-bearer for

Scottish food and drink both at home and

overseas. Before 2014, when Glasgow hosts

the Commonwealth Games and other major

events – the Ryder Cup at Gleneagles and

Homecoming Scotland – the industry is rallying

to prepare for the opportunities that await.

Karen Peattie, Editor, BQ2 Special Report

SPECIAL REPORT | SUMMER 13FOOD & DRINK IN SCOTLAND

SPECIAL REPORT:FOOD & DRINKIN SCOTLAND

WELCOME

04 NEWS The latest developments in Scotland’s

food and drink industry

10 OVERVIEW Focus on a sector facing the challenge

of realising its true global potential

14 SHIP SHAPE Seafood surge boosts entrepreneurial

couple’s shoreline enterprise

22 LIVE DEBATE How can we maximise growth

opportunities in food and drink?

28 ON THE RISE Richard Lochhead MSP toasts the

food and drink revolution

34 SPREADING OUT How a market town business

conquered the pâté market

38 HONEYPOT EFFECT The growing appetite for tourist spots

with food and drink at their heart

42 A FINE BALANCE Donnie Maclean’s adventure with his

nutritionally conscious pizza empire

CONTENTS

46

LEAP OF FAITH BEARS FRUIT

CONTACTSROOM501 LTDChristopher March Managing Director e: [email protected] Hoare Director e: [email protected]

EDITORIALKaren Peattie e: [email protected] Kenny Kemp BQ Scotland Editor e: [email protected] Andrew Mernin e: [email protected]

DESIGN & PRODUCTIONroom501 e: [email protected]

PHOTOGRAPHYChris Auld e: [email protected]

ADVERTISING For advertising call 0191 537 5720 or email [email protected]

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room501 was formed from a partnership of directors who, combined, have many years of experience in contract publishing, print, marketing, sales and advertising and distribution. We are a passionate, dedicated company that strives to help you to meet your overall business needs and requirements. All contents copyright © 2013 room501 Ltd. All rights reserved. While every effort is made to ensure accuracy, no responsibility can be accepted for inaccuracies, howsoever caused. No liability can be accepted for illustrations, photographs, artwork or advertising materials while in transmission or with the publisher or their agents. All information is correct at time of going to print, June 2013.

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04SPECIAL REPORT | SUMMER 13 FOOD & DRINK IN SCOTLAND

NEWS SUMMER 13

Island bakery grows global reach, glass raised to Tamdhu relaunch, brave move pays off for Scotty, not so chilli down south, something brewing at Eden, and sustainable smoked fish hits the market

Butcher Simon Howie has launched his famous Goodie Bags and Great Scottish Breakfast

Packs online at www.thescottishbutcher.com.

Previously only available over the counter at Simon Howie’s award-winning butcher shops in

Auchterarder and Perth, the listing of the popular selection boxes online means that anyone in

the UK (and around the world if they have a visiting relative) can now get the taste of Scottish

meat delivered direct to their door.

Simon Howie said: “Following the launch of our Goodie Bags in our shops earlier this year,

demand has been such that we’re now making them available to order online throughout the

UK. We’ve noticed a huge demand for our breakfast packs from Scots living in England who

have been deprived of their regular Lorne sausage fix, so we can now serve them up a taste of

home wherever they might be in the UK.”

Meanwhile, Howie has invested in a comprehensive redesign of his Perth shop in response to a

recent upsurge in demand from foodies keen to shop at independent local specialists. Located

on the old High Street, within walking distance from the town centre, the butcher’s Perth shop is

where Simon started work as a Saturday boy.

“Recent months have seen a burgeoning trend for discerning customers to demand certainty

about the provenance of their food,” he said. “Customers are increasingly demanding quality

produce and, from what we have seen in Perth, are more prepared to travel in order to get what

they want.”

>> Butcher expands online business

>> Island bakery grows global reach

Stag Bakeries, based in Stornoway in the

Outer Hebrides, continues to show that

an island location is no barrier to ambition by

attracting interest from across the globe.

Over the last three years the company has

become known within speciality food circles as

a brand associated with quality and integrity.

It has invested in additional marketing activity

People are more prepared to travel in order to get what they want

and equipment, as well as completing a

rebranding exercise to help attract additional

export business.

Highlands and Islands Enterprise (HIE) and

Scottish Development International (SDI) have

assisted Stag with financial support towards

project costs. In addition, a range of specialist

advice on marketing, branding and packaging

has been provided through HIE together with

advice and guidance from the Food & Health

Innovation Service, which has provided a

strong foundation for the next stage in growth

of the business.

Stag produces a range of bakery and

confectionery products for local customers

but also a range of sweet and savoury biscuits

for off-island markets. Last year, it established

business in China and aims to increase its

export business as this is where it sees the

most lucrative growth prospects.

Alasdair Maclean, Stag’s general manager,

explained: “Customer feedback was telling

us that our packaging was very Scottish in

its design and had some limitations. In order

to have a wider export appeal that reflected

the premium nature of our products we

needed to revamp it. We’re delighted with

the new look which has involved a great deal

of planning.”

HIE’s Anne Macaulay added: “Stag Bakeries is

one of the many businesses HIE has supported

to develop international trade activity over

the past year and is a good example of

collaborative working between a range of

partners. This support for ambitious businesses

like Stag Bakeries is making a real difference

to achieving growth aspirations, despite the

economic climate, and in the coming year we

will continue to maximise the unique strengths

the Outer Hebrides has to ensure continued

sustainable economic growth in the area.”

Stag is now actively working on its export

targets and should be making some further

announcements over the next few months.

Plans are in place to introduce some new

products later in the year which reflect

its commitment to innovation and

product development.

05 SPECIAL REPORT | SUMMER 13FOOD & DRINK IN SCOTLAND

SUMMER 13 NEWS

>> Brave moveScotty Brand, the umbrella brand for

premium seasonal Scottish produce from

leading Lanarkshire root vegetable supplier

Albert Bartlett, has won a top award at the

Marketing Society Awards for a brand tie-up

with Disney-Pixar.

The “Bravely Building Scotty Brand with an

Epic Partnership” campaign clinched the

Marketing Society Star Award’s integrated

marketing category. It recognised the

innovative collaboration with the Oscar-

winning movie Brave, which included on-pack

>> Venison producer looks for future growth

Pioneering Scottish venison business,

Seriously Good Venison, has been

rebranded to bring it into line with modern-

day perceptions of venison.

Emphasising the artisan butchery skills of the

company, combined with a clean, modern

design, the new brand reflects the way

Seriously Good Venison has watched public

opinion on venison mature, as demand

for venison has grown. The rebrand will

also allow the business to diversify into

other top-quality meats like lamb, beef

and pork in the future. It is being rolled

out this summer at trade shows and

farmers’ markets.

Sales of venison across the UK rose from

£32 million in 2006 to £43 million in 2009

(source: Mintel) and consumption is growing

by around 20%-25% year on year.

The award-winning business operated under

the name Fletchers of Auchtermuchty until

last year when it was bought over by former

manager, Vikki Banks. Seriously Good Venison

is now run from larger, state-of-the-art

Gordon & MacPhail, the malt whisky

specialist and specialist drinks

wholesaler, is the official title sponsor of

the 2013 Highlands & Islands Food &

Drink Awards.

The family-owned and managed business,

established in Elgin in 1895, is one of

the UK’s leading independent specialist

wholesalers stocking over 4500 product

lines, including an extensive wine list, an

impressive portfolio of spirits and a wide

range of craft beers and ciders.

Gordon & MacPhail is also the UK’s top

wholesaler for malt whisky, stocking

every distillery bottling of single malt

available in the UK market. Included in

>> Highland fling

Speyside’s Tamdhu Distillery has

relaunched with a new 10 year old

single malt whisky. The malt, matured in

oak sherry casks with natural Speyside

water from the Tamdhu spring, is described

as having “a softness of vanilla and

sugared almonds on the nose balanced

by fresh oak and cinnamon. Bursting with

fruit and spice, which gently yields to

toffee, there is a richness of sherry oak

on the palate with a gentle hint of peat

smoke wisp”.

Distillery owner Ian Macleod Distillers

brought in TV drinks expert Olly Smith

for the occasion. The new dram, which

comes in an elegant glass bottle in an

eye-catching white and gold tube, is

available from Waitrose, specialists and

independents across the UK.

>> Tamdhu relaunches

promotions, competitions, VIP screenings,

discount vouchers and mobile downloads.

Set in the Scottish Highlands, the movie

echoed Scotty Brand’s values of heritage,

honesty and tradition. “With over 60% of

shoppers’ decisions made in store and the

fresh aisle being largely unbranded territory,

an on-pack takeover was the winning

ingredient in securing 565% sales uplift and

56% partnership awareness,” said marketing

manager Michael Jarvis. The Scotty Brand

product portfolio includes potatoes, carrots,

lettuce, prepared vegetables, Ayrshire new

potatoes and seasonal berries.

this portfolio is the award-winning

range of single malts from its very own

Benromach Distillery.

Stephen Rankin, director of UK sales,

said: “The Highlands & Islands Food &

Drink Awards are extremely important

because they showcase the quality and

diversity this region has to offer. As title

sponsor, Gordon & MacPhail can help the

industry build its reputation,” he added.

“The Awards are very much associated

with quality and innovation, and enable

producers to demonstrate that being

located in the Highlands & Islands is by no

means a barrier to success.” The Awards,

now in their ninth year and sporting a

fresh new logo and website, recognise and

reward the businesses which are displaying

best practice, achieving exceptional

standards and pushing boundaries in a key

growth industry sector. Shortlisted finalists

will be announced in mid-September with

the awards dinner and ceremony taking

place in Inverness on October 25.


St James Smokehouse, the Annan-based producer of quality smoked salmon products, has

been named both Business of the Year and Export Business of the Year in the Scotland Food

& Drink Excellence Awards.

Brendan Maher, the company’s co-founder, was also named Scottish Food & Drink Entrepreneur

at the prestigious awards, widely regarded as the industry “Oscars”, in Edinburgh at the end

of May.

Product of the Year went to the Perthshire-based chocolatier Iain Burnett – The Highland

Chocolatier for his Velvet Truffles and Spiced Pralines, while a special award was unveiled on

the night for Outstanding Achievement in Food & Drink for Paul Grant MBE of Angus preserves

producer, Mackays. The award was presented by Richard Lochhead MSP, Cabinet Secretary for

Rural Affairs and the Environment.

Winners in the 17 categories celebrating excellence across the industry included established

brands like Scotty Brand and Dean’s of Huntly although young businesses and small companies

with new brands like Mama Tea and Hebridean Sea Salt were also recognised. Other awards

went to The Smokehouse in Aberdeenshire, Rannoch Smokery, The Orkney Brewery, Taste of

Arran, Katy Rodger’s Artisan, Plenta Foods, AK Stoddart, Mackintosh of Glendaveny and The

Store, Aberdeenshire.

The awards are organised by Scotland Food & Drink in partnership with The Royal Highland and

Agricultural Society of Scotland (RHASS).

>> Excellence in food and drink

NEWS SUMMER 13

>> Not so chilli down southSIMPLYaddCHILLI has won a listing in

Booths, the upmarket Preston-based

supermarket group.

The Mild, Wild and Extreme SIMPLYaddCHILLI

products, the creation of Glasgow-based

Susan McCann’s Lochbroom Fine Foods, are

a combination of chillies and strawberries

that are fat-free with no added salt, colours,

preservatives or artificial flavours. In addition

to Booths, SIMPLYaddCHILLI is listed in all

Waitrose stores in Scotland and the much-

lauded Whole Foods Markets in Glasgow. The

products are also popular at farmers’ markets,

where McCann first started selling them.

premises in Tayside but still sources its venison

from the original Fife farm, which continues

its specially-formulated farming system with

animal welfare at its heart.

Banks said: “The heritage feel of our previous

branding has stood the business in good

stead for almost 40 years but in that time

perceptions of venison have drastically

changed. People are more aware than ever

before that venison is a super-healthy

meat, which is easy to fit into an everyday

recipe repertoire.

“Our new brand echoes the modern image of

venison combined with the traditional values

we maintain in our artisan approach to animal

welfare and butchering skills.”

>> Working up a thirstConsumers have another tool to help

them live a healthier lifestyle with the

recent launch of the innovative Hydro Meter

app from Glasgow-based wholesaler JW

Filshill, owner of the KeyStore convenience

store brand. A collaboration with Highland

Spring – the leading UK-produced brand

of bottled water – the free app for iPhones

enables consumers to monitor their water

consumption on the go, showing them

how hydrated they are by providing eight

notifications throughout the day until

they are 100% hydrated. Using geofencing

technology, it also alert shoppers when they

are within 500 metres of a KeyStore and

notifies them of any exclusive Highland

Spring promotions available in the store at

that particular time, such as two 750ml

bottles for £1. Consumers, who can

download the app via a QR code on POS

in-store which takes them straight to the

App Store, can also use it to make “brag”

posts on Facebook and Twitter. The initiative

represents a major investment for JW Filshill

and recognises steps being taken by the

Scottish Government to encourage Scots

to adopt a healthier lifestyle and drink less

alcohol. Simon Hannah, managing director

of JW Filshill, Scotland’s oldest independent

food and drink wholesaler, said: “The app

forms part of a robust consumer-facing

marketing strategy in 2013 which will see

us working closely with our suppliers to

offer keen deals and promotions that are

exclusive to KeyStore.”

SUMMER 13 COMPANY PROFILE

If you would like more information about our Intellectual Property and Corporate team, please contact Victoria Moore on 0141 245 6740 or [email protected] Brodies LLP has offices in Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen and Brussels. www.brodies.com

These are exciting times for the Scottish

food and drink sector. Last year exports

topped £5.3 billion, and a target has

been set for this figure to rise to £7.1 billion by

2017. There is no doubt that this is one of the most

dynamic and successful sectors of the Scottish

economy. While there are many challenges with

which to contend - such as a changing regulatory

environment, rising commodity prices and

consumer price pressure - there are also significant

opportunities to grow our export markets further

in the months and years ahead.

One such opportunity on which Brodies is

providing advice to a growing number of clients is

sponsorship. 2014 is shaping up to be Scotland’s

year of sport. With our country hosting the

Commonwealth Games and Ryder Cup, the eyes

of the world will be on Scotland. This will present

a golden opportunity for the food, drink and

hospitality sectors to raise the international

profile of their brands by associating them with

these word-class sporting events and by seizing

the opportunity for export growth that this new

audience presents.

Our Intellectual Property and Corporate team is

ideally placed to advise you on how best to exploit

and protect your brand when entering into a

sponsorship agreement. These agreements need

to be clear about what rights the brand owner

is getting - for example, how and where their

branding is displayed -

and what restrictions are placed on the event

organiser in terms of rights granted to other

sponsors. In addition, how the sponsorship

agreement deals with infringement of intellectual

property and what steps will be taken to protect

the brand in the event of disreputable actions or

bad publicity are key considerations and the basis

for commercial discussion.

Whether you’re a manufacturer, distiller, producer,

retailer, supplier or customer, Brodies understands

Victoria Moore explains why 2014 presents the perfect opportunity for the food and drink sector.

Sponsorship is food for thought in Scotland’s year of sport

Victoria Moore

the importance you place on issues such as

branding; commodity prices; sustainability and

environment; quality and origin of products;

product development and regulatory compliance.

Brodies is a member of Scotland Food and Drink

and, with more leading practitioners than any

other firm in Scotland, we can offer commercially-

focused, expert advice on any legal issue your

business might face. We work with a wide variety

of clients both on one-off projects and on an

ongoing basis.

Our Intellectual Property and Corporate team is ideally placed to advise you on how best to exploit and protect your brand when entering into a sponsorship agreement

A convenience store in Aviemore has

been named Scottish Local Retailer

of the Year.

Husband-and-wife team Gordon and

Debbie Mair, who own and manage the

Costcutter shop in the Highland village

and ski resort, also won the Fresh &

Chilled and Spirits Retailer categories

in the 10th SLR Awards, presented in

Glasgow in June.

>> Top of the shops

SUMMER 13 COMPANY PROFILE

If you would like more information about our Intellectual Property and Corporate team, please contact Victoria Moore on 0141 245 6740 or [email protected] Brodies LLP has offices in Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen and Brussels. www.brodies.com

These are exciting times for the Scottish

food and drink sector. Last year exports

topped £5.3 billion, and a target has

been set for this figure to rise to £7.1 billion by

2017. There is no doubt that this is one of the most

dynamic and successful sectors of the Scottish

economy. While there are many challenges with

which to contend - such as a changing regulatory

environment, rising commodity prices and

consumer price pressure - there are also significant

opportunities to grow our export markets further

in the months and years ahead.

One such opportunity on which Brodies is

providing advice to a growing number of clients is

sponsorship. 2014 is shaping up to be Scotland’s

year of sport. With our country hosting the

Commonwealth Games and Ryder Cup, the eyes

of the world will be on Scotland. This will present

a golden opportunity for the food, drink and

hospitality sectors to raise the international

profile of their brands by associating them with

these word-class sporting events and by seizing

the opportunity for export growth that this new

audience presents.

Our Intellectual Property and Corporate team is

ideally placed to advise you on how best to exploit

and protect your brand when entering into a

sponsorship agreement. These agreements need

to be clear about what rights the brand owner

is getting - for example, how and where their

branding is displayed -

and what restrictions are placed on the event

organiser in terms of rights granted to other

sponsors. In addition, how the sponsorship

agreement deals with infringement of intellectual

property and what steps will be taken to protect

the brand in the event of disreputable actions or

bad publicity are key considerations and the basis

for commercial discussion.

Whether you’re a manufacturer, distiller, producer,

retailer, supplier or customer, Brodies understands

Victoria Moore explains why 2014 presents the perfect opportunity for the food and drink sector.

Sponsorship is food for thought in Scotland’s year of sport

Victoria Moore

the importance you place on issues such as

branding; commodity prices; sustainability and

environment; quality and origin of products;

product development and regulatory compliance.

Brodies is a member of Scotland Food and Drink

and, with more leading practitioners than any

other firm in Scotland, we can offer commercially-

focused, expert advice on any legal issue your

business might face. We work with a wide variety

of clients both on one-off projects and on an

ongoing basis.

Our Intellectual Property and Corporate team is ideally placed to advise you on how best to exploit and protect your brand when entering into a sponsorship agreement



Sunny celebrity Carol Smillie is the face of a campaign to encourage people to rediscover the

benefits of taking time to prepare food and eat together with family and friends, away from

the distraction of the TV and mobile phones.

The TV personality and mum of three is one of the many famous Scots who have contributed a

favourite recipe for a new cookbook published by Quality Meat Scotland as part of the campaign.

‘Round the Table’, a full-colour, hardback cookbook edited by Karen Peattie, features simple,

delicious beef, lamb and pork recipes from celebrities such as actor Ewan McGregor, TV presenter

Lorraine Kelly and football legend Sir Alex Ferguson.

Profits from the sale of the book will go to raise funds for children’s charities CHAS and

CHILDREN 1ST.

Carol Smillie’s own recipe – oriental-inspired Spicy Lamb – also features in the book. “Sitting

down to enjoy a meal together is a precious moment of family interaction which shouldn’t be,

but often is, taken for granted,” she says. “I hope this fantastic cookbook helps to rekindle

some of those precious family occasions that are such a valuable part of family life.”

With an RRP of £10, the book is available at selected Waterstones.

>> ‘Round the Table’ with Carol

>> Sustainable smoked fish hits the market

Arbroath-based family business RR Spink

& Sons is harnessing over 300 years of

expertise and innovation to launch a new

brand of sustainable smoked fish.

Prepared using Scottish loch trout and salmon,

the new brand targets “consumers who

are passionate about the quality and

provenance of their food”. All handmade

with the finest, natural ingredients, the four

products in the range also use native British

woods for smoking.

The products are: Delicious Loch Etive

Smoked Trout; Kiln Roast Loch Etive Smoked

Trout; Finest Scottish Smoked Salmon; and

Kiln Roasted Smoked Salmon. Available

in independent and specialist retailers and

delis nationwide, the new brand also carries

the endorsement of a Royal Warrant as

fishmonger to HM The Queen.

>> Healthy food for allScottish retailers are to receive more

help to promote healthier food options

in convenience stores following a £300,000

injection of Scottish Government funding.

The Healthy Living Programme, jointly funded

by the Scottish Government and Scottish

Grocers’ Federation (SGF), the

trade association that helped launch the

initiative in 2004, provides shops with the

means to display and promote more fresh,

healthy produce.

More than 1200 SGF members are now signed

up to the scheme but under this latest round

of funding the plan is to target expansion of

membership, encouraging hospital shops and

restaurants to get on board. Members will also

be encouraged to engage more with young

people, helping them make healthier choices

by promoting healthier “meal deal” choices.

SGF chief executive John Drummond

welcomed the funding: “It will help retailers

invest time, money and their expertise to

promote an expanded range of healthier

products. As responsible retailers we are

committed to being part of the solution to

Scotland’s obesity problem.”

The announcement of further funding for

the Healthy Living Programme comes as

revised Scottish dietary goals are published,

following a commitment in Recipe for Success

– Scotland’s National Food and Drink Policy.

Business interests across Scotland, the North East, Yorkshire and the West Midlands?

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DEALS IN MOTIONThe inside track on Jim McColl’s route to the top

A TIGHT-KNIT PLANThe cashmere queen plots her next move in retail

PAR FOR THE COURSEHow an IT man got his wings in angel investment

A POINT TO PROVE The Scottish stars who’ve created emerging businesses on the back of sporting success

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NEVER TOO OLDSecret millionaire on keeping business dreams alive

SOLID FOUNDATIONS The nimble housing group that’s fighting back

KEEP ON PUSHINGAround the world with pram maker Silver Cross

COCKTAIL FOR SUCCESSTaking on the drinks industry giants and winning

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www.bq-magazine.co.uk ISSUE TWENTY ONE: SPRING 2013


WHY LOYALTY PAYSCareer building champion shares his secrets

PASS THE PARCELInside the region’s booming treasure trade

SUNRISE INDUSTRY Winning the race to a lucrative offshore market

THE IN CROWDHow fund seekers have found a new lifeline

RIPE FOR RECOVERYThe multi-millionaire and lifetime City achiever who believes the North East is truly on the up


NORTH EAST EDITION

BQNE_FRONT.indd 1 28/05/2013 14:53


www.bq-magazine.co.uk ISSUE TWO: SUMMER 2013


EXTRA MILES Inside the Queen’s bank of choice

THE BULLION BOY Meet the young entrepreneur who struck gold

FASHIONING A NICHETailor’s tweets set a new trend

CARRYING THE TORCHKeeping momentum going after the Games

SUCCESSON TAPThe luxury bathroom designer with a steady fl ow of famous clients


WEST MIDLANDS EDITION

BQWM_MAG_FRONT.indd 1 30/05/2013 11:02

NEWS SUMMER 13

A Fife-based microbrewery specialising

in wood-matured beers has announced

plans to invest £300,000 to double its

production capacity so it can keep pace

with demand.

The Eden Brewery, established by former

Molson Coors sales chief Paul Miller on the

site of a former paper mill at Guardbridge,

near St Andrews less than a year ago, has

seen demand outstrip supply and is on

course to increase turnover from £500,000

in its first full year to around £2m in 2014.

Eden’s Oak Wood Series, a portfolio of ales

aged in rum, bourbon and whisky barrels,

is proving so popular that the brewer has

been forced to temporarily outsource

production to Traditional Scottish Ales

in Stirling.

>> Something brewing

Business interests across Scotland, the North East, Yorkshire and the West Midlands?


www.bq-magazine.co.uk ISSUE ELEVEN: SPRING 2013


CHANGE MAKER Charting Scotland’s growth as a land of entrepreneurs

DEALS IN MOTIONThe inside track on Jim McColl’s route to the top

A TIGHT-KNIT PLANThe cashmere queen plots her next move in retail

PAR FOR THE COURSEHow an IT man got his wings in angel investment

A POINT TO PROVE The Scottish stars who’ve created emerging businesses on the back of sporting success

ISSUE ELEV

EN: SPR

ING

2013: SCO

TLAN

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NEVER TOO OLDSecret millionaire on keeping business dreams alive

SOLID FOUNDATIONS The nimble housing group that’s fighting back

KEEP ON PUSHINGAround the world with pram maker Silver Cross

COCKTAIL FOR SUCCESSTaking on the drinks industry giants and winning

SERIAL STAR The prolific Yorkshire entrepreneur behind a seemingly constant stream of start-up ideas ISSU

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WHY LOYALTY PAYSCareer building champion shares his secrets

PASS THE PARCELInside the region’s booming treasure trade

SUNRISE INDUSTRY Winning the race to a lucrative offshore market

THE IN CROWDHow fund seekers have found a new lifeline

RIPE FOR RECOVERYThe multi-millionaire and lifetime City achiever who believes the North East is truly on the up


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EXTRA MILES Inside the Queen’s bank of choice

THE BULLION BOY Meet the young entrepreneur who struck gold

FASHIONING A NICHETailor’s tweets set a new trend

CARRYING THE TORCHKeeping momentum going after the Games

SUCCESSON TAPThe luxury bathroom designer with a steady fl ow of famous clients


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OVERVIEW SUMMER 13


Industry voice: James Withers, chief

executive, Scotland Food & Drink


SUMMER 13 OVERVIEW

It’s a key business driver for Scotland, up there

with energy, life sciences, financial services and

tourism to name just a few.

With one in five people in Scottish

manufacturing working in the sector, food

and drink makes a very significant contribution

to the economy and, indeed, some remote

communities rely on it.

Crucially, there are remarkable levels of

innovation within the industry at the moment

and nowhere was this more evident than at

the Scotland Food & Drink Excellence Awards

in Edinburgh recently, where no-one could

have failed to be impressed by the exciting,

new products showcased by both our up-and-

coming producers and our more established

companies. There can be no doubt that

industry leadership organisation, Scotland

Food & Drink, is playing a pivotal role in the

industry’s growth. With a 28% increase in sales

of Scottish brands in the UK and a 50% rise

in food exports taking total food and drink

turnover to £12.4bn, the body is already 99%

of the way to achieving its target of growing

the value of the industry to £12.5bn by 2017.

In fact, it is on course to reach this target,

considered ambitions at the time, this year.

With aspirations to position Scotland among

the world’s top producers of premium food

and drink products, Scotland Food & Drink

has always been bold in its ambitions and

aspirations, setting out its stall clearly and

concisely when it was launched by Richard

Lochhead MSP, the Cabinet Secretary for Rural

Affairs and the Environment, back in 2007.

Getting the industry on board has been a

gradual process and membership levels,

over 330 companies, perhaps seem lower

than they could.

But as James Withers, chief executive of

Scotland Food & Drink, rightly points out:

“Building membership is a challenge for

any business or trade organisation and it is

down to individual companies to make their

membership work for them. I take the view

that if we are doing the right thing, food and

drink companies will show their support for

us through membership. I believe that the

industry should be funding a leadership body.

We now have the majority of turnover in food

and drink within membership which is a great

achievement in just six years.

“We’re now 27% funded by Scottish

Enterprise so we do need the financial stability

and ongoing support of membership.”

One plus side of membership is that companies

can help shape the direction of the industry.

“We’ve recently gone through a review which

involved getting views from the coalface of our

industry – that’s really important because we

hear members’ concerns, they tell us where

they need more help,” says Withers. “But they

also tell us about their successes and what

they’ve been doing – we can then share that

information with others members.

“We’re at a really good stage in our own

development now with an executive team

of 17 and partners who are all singing

from the same hymn sheet,” he goes on.

“Geographically it’s a challenge but we are

trying to spend more face-to-face time with

individual members and up our game as far as

communication is concerned. All partnerships

evolve in time – ours is no different.”

The Scotland Food & Drink partnership

includes, among others, the Scotch Whisky

Association (SWA), Quality Meat Scotland,

Scottish Salmon Producers’ Organisation

(SSPO), NFU Scotland, Scottish Food and

Drink Federation (SFDF), Seafish, Seafood

Scotland, Dairy UK, Improve (food and drink

sector skills council) and Highlands and

Islands Enterprise (HIE).

“These partners are at the heart of the

organisation and we can learn from them,

too,” Withers points out. “Take the SWA.

They are hugely supportive and can teach us

a lot about exporting but we can also take

inspiration from the whisky industry when it

comes to innovation and reinventing itself.

Look at all the new distilleries starting up just

now – that gives the rest of the food and drink

industry confidence.”

From a consumer perspective, meanwhile, food

is very much in focus, chiming with Scotland

Food & Drink’s “premium, provenance and

health” mantra. Farmers’ markets across the

country are proving resilient amid the recession

while farm shops are increasingly adopting >>

TIME TO FEAST ON NEW OPPORTUNITIESConfidence is growing and momentum building in Scotland’s booming food and drink sector, but challenges remain if the industry is to reach its true global potential, writes Karen Peattie

Yes, our home markets are important but they are mature markets and our companies have to look elsewhere for growth


OVERVIEW SUMMER 13

a dual role as outlets where consumers can

purchase fresh, local food products but also as

“destinations” – places to go with the family

where there might also be a café/restaurant,

gift shop and other attractions such as farm

trails, pick-your-own fruit and children’s

play areas.

Ahead of 2014 when Glasgow hosts the

Commonwealth Games and two other major

events – the Ryder Cup at Gleneagles and

Homecoming Scotland – collaboration has

never been more important, suggests Withers.

“We’re a collaborative organisation and this

approach has been instrumental in enhancing

our reputation both at home and overseas.

But we want to be more collaborative – we

need to be. We need to maximise growth

opportunities and keep our national and

international trading momentum high.”

Of course, the other big event in 2014 is the

referendum on independence. It’s something

Scotland Food & Drink must consider, like

everyone else. “Obviously we can’t take a

position,” Withers points out, “but we do

have to engage in the discussion.

Organisations like ours have a responsibility

to ask questions. Clearly, we are not going

to get all the facts before the outcome of

the referendum and I’m aware that there are

mixed views within the food and drink industry

but one of the repeated questions is, ‘Is it

going to change business relationships with

customers in England?’

“Whatever the outcome in September 2014,

it won’t affect our strategy or aims for the

industry. I’m actually quite relaxed about it

because we have a strong industry that will

continue to grow – I don’t see anything we’re

doing being knocked off the rails.”

According to Withers, the food and drink

industry is very much the “jewel in the crown

of the Scottish economy” just now with 2014

shaping up to be an extraordinary year. In

fact, 2014 is one of the reasons Withers left

farmers’ union NFU Scotland, where he was

also chief executive, to join Scotland Food &

Drink. But he urges caution: “We’re all talking

about 2014 and the opportunities but its

success won’t be measured next year – it will

be measured in the years to come and we

need to recognise that the impact of next year

will have to be sustained.”

For Withers, who has become a highly

respected and articulate figurehead for

the industry, the really big opportunities

lie overseas. “Yes, our home markets are

important but they are mature markets and

our companies have to look elsewhere for

growth,” he says. “With the support of

Scottish Development International (SDI),

which has resources in 25 countries around the

world, exporting is the real game-changer for

our food and drink companies.

“The UK market is tough and customers are

tough and it will always be important, but

there is far more growth potential in export

markets, particularly emerging ones like China

and the Middle East,” he continues. “But

there are challenges. We need to be better

at the practical support in getting product to

these markets and we need to improve the

commercial support – there’s a hell of a lot of

work to be done.

“For example, we are currently looking at

pulling together like-minded companies to

export together. This will be important because

we are an industry made up largely of SMEs so

we lack scale. We also need to look at how we

move product globally with the lowest possible

carbon footprint. We also need to be looking

to countries which are doing exports well for

inspiration – New Zealand is a great example.

We do need some ongoing dedicated funding

to support this export activity.”

Indeed, SDI is helping more Scottish companies

than ever before branch into overseas trading

markets. SDI worked with 2096 companies

to develop their international business,

representing a 52% increase from last year.

As a joint venture, SDI also operates on behalf

of HIE where 156 companies were supported

overseas last year – an increase of almost 50%

from the previous year.

Anne MacColl, SDI chief executive, comments:

“It’s vital that we continue to raise our

international aspirations and encourage


more and more Scottish companies to think

globally. Tapping into international markets can

transform an established business and, more

significantly, play a key role in adding economic

value and jobs to the Scottish economy. Our

results show that these messages are hitting

home with Scottish businesses and they’re

getting braver at exporting.”

The most recent annual export results show

that, of the 2000-plus companies supported

by SDI, 280 of them were from the food and

drink sector. While the majority of demand

for SDI support is still focused on EU markets,

last year saw an increase of almost 60% in

the number of companies across all economic

sectors receiving support to target markets

in Asia.

Farmed salmon, Scotland’s largest food export,

now has a worldwide retail value in excess

of £1 billion. Over 60 countries imported

fresh Scottish salmon in 2011. Yet there

are frustrations within the industry, as Scott

Landsburgh, chief executive of the Scottish

Salmon Producers’ Organisation, explains:

“Planning is a problem. We could easily

increase production. In fact, every salmon

we produce we could sell today never mind

tomorrow. We could double production. Ten

years ago we produced 152,000 tonnes of

salmon and this year we will produce 152,000

tonnes of salmon.

“We are flatlining – we’re not going

anywhere. In world terms we’re in reverse

and that’s down to the fact that we can’t get

development planning. We’ve got the money

for it but it is very difficult to unlock the

planning system in certain parts of Scotland.

We are addressing that, obviously, but it is a

frustration and very slow process.”

Meanwhile, what the industry also has is

entrepreneurial spirit in abundance. And

food and drink, suggests Withers, is a much

more attractive place to be now, fuelling the

creativity of ambitious, driven individuals.

He points to mentoring within the industry

as “invaluable”. The Saltire Foundation,

for example, is offering an opportunity for

individuals to join the 2013 Saltire Fellowship

as a Food & Drink Fellow. Valued at £27,000

and offering up to 90% funding, the

programme is targeting candidates who are

typically early to mid-career entrepreneurs or

potential business leaders with at least four

years’ work experience and an openness to

learning from new experiences.

“Traditionally, it has been difficult to convince

people that they can have a good career with

prospects in the food and drink industry,” says

Withers. “The SFDF is doing sterling work in

this area and there’s more information out

there now than there’s ever been. There’s

engagement with schools from many of our

partners and that’s absolutely crucial. But we

need more mentoring and people who are

willing to share the benefits of their success

and experience.

“Again, it comes back to collaboration.

Collaboration works and it’s very much the

way forward for our industry.”

For example, Scotland Food & Drink’s Meet the

Buyer (MTB) events, part of its well-established

Access To Markets business support service

aimed at helping food and drink companies

access new routes to UK markets, continue

to be well received and are open to non-

members. Other services available under

the Access to Markets programme include

buyer briefings, learning journeys, supplier

development programmes, and trade and

consumer exhibitions.

The organisation’s much-lauded INSIGHTS

initiative provides information, intelligence

and knowledge for the Scottish food and

drink industry, much of it available online and

available to non-members. Other member

benefits range from technical assistance

and help with recruitment to marketing, PR

and branding support. “We’re providing

help in areas that some companies wouldn’t

necessarily think about,” Withers points

out. “If you require technical assistance, for

example, we can help get things moving more

quickly because we know exactly who to speak

to – smaller companies might not know where

to start or have the time to research what they

need to do.”

With more people talking about food and

drink and companies themselves increasingly

willing to talk about their successes, the

industry is primed for growth despite the

economic uncertainties surrounding the

independence debate and other challenges

facing specific sectors. Regulation within the

drinks industry is another issue.

While retailers, meanwhile, are being forced

to deal with increasing layers of legislation,

they are also working hard in response to

the growing consumer appetite for more

Scottish products and locally-sourced produce.

Scotmid Food, for example, is expanding its

partnerships with local bakery suppliers after

a number of successful roll-outs of in-store

bakeries across Edinburgh and the Lothians,

Fife and the west of Scotland.

The convenience-store retailer has refitted

stores with fresh and hot bakery counters

offering cakes, savouries and baked goods,

while other stores now stock locally-made

speciality breads. Working with Dunfermline-

based Stephens the Bakers, Goodfellow &

Steven of Dundee, Aulds in the west and The

Breadwinner Bakery in Edinburgh, Scotmid is

now rolling out the concept across its estate.

“We want to be famous for our bakery offer

across Scotland,” explains Colin McLean, chief

operating officer. “We’re a Scottish retailer

with a rich heritage going back over 150 years

and we want to get that local message across

to customers who use our 350 stores. With

our bakery approach, we are doing something

no-one else is doing and reaching out to our

customers – it’s a very exciting development

for us.”

With forward-thinking collaborations like

Scotmid’s helping to create new business for

suppliers and build confidence, Scotland’s

food and drink sector will grow in stature and

reputation – and that’s good for all sectors of

the industry. n

It’s vital that we continue to raise our international aspirations and encourage more and more Scottish companies to think globally

SUMMER 13 OVERVIEW


INTERVIEW SUMMER 13

14

RIDING HIGH ON THE GOOD SHIP SCOTLAND Growing demand for quality seafood sourced from Scottish waters is helping to keep one entrepreneurial couple’s business in good health in Edinburgh, writes Karen Peattie

Walk into The Ship on the Shore, the

Edinburgh seafood restaurant and champagne

bar, and you can almost smell the sea. Initially,

it’s like taking a step back in time with its dark

wood interiors and sea-related themes but

closer inspection reveals a more sophisticated

ambience with sparkling champagne on

ice, crisp, white tablecloths and elegant art

hanging on the walls.

Sitting casually at the bar are owners Murray

and Tracey Georgeson, doing what they do

best – chatting to customers and discussing

the catch of the day. Today, however, it is not

langoustines. “It’s been difficult to get good

langoustines just now,” explains Murray. “The

best ones are going down south or for export

and are in short supply as a result of the jet

stream being below Spain, which means

Scottish waters are really cold.

“The climate has a big impact on crustaceans

although as far as I’m aware this is the first

time we’ve had this particular problem for

at least 35 years. We could use others but

the quality’s not the same and we would

never compromise on quality because it’s our

reputation that’s at stake. Colder water also

means that oysters will be smaller this year.”

Will customers ordering the restaurant’s

showpiece Fruit de Mer Royale be

disappointed? Probably not, given the rest of

the sea’s bounty that comes with it – whole

Scottish lobsters, oysters, brown crab claws,

spoots, dressed brown crab, smoked salmon,

clams, mussels, Arbroath Smokie and king

scallops. With a bottle of house champagne to

enjoy with it, this is one culinary extravaganza

that doesn’t come cheap yet it is hugely

popular, particularly with those celebrating a

special occasion.

Also popular with diners are The Ship’s

speciality smokehouse platters, cited by Rocco

Forte Hotels director Olga Polizzi as one of

“30 Things To Eat Before You Die” in The

Times magazine. “That sort of praise is >>

FOOD & DRINK IN SCOTLAND

SUMMER 13 XXXXXXXX


SUMMER 13 XXXXXXXX

Scottish food doesn’t have to be so traditionally Scottish all the time



INTERVIEW SUMMER 13

unexpected but always welcome because it

creates a bit of interest,” says Tracey. “People

read it and think, ‘I want to try that’. We’re

reviewed quite often – sometimes you know

it’s happening, sometimes you don’t and you

have to grit your teeth and take a deep breath

if a review isn’t quite what you would like it

to be.”

Murray adds: “We’ve had some great reviews

and been featured in the likes of The Guardian

when we were listed as one of the 10 best

restaurants in Edinburgh. That was a really

great accolade. I think I worry more about

these things than Tracey because no-one likes

criticism but then I’ll remember that this is just

one individual’s opinion – and the views of our

customers are much more important.

“We do a fantastic seafood paella and one

critic questioned why a Scottish seafood

restaurant would have a Spanish dish on the

menu – that annoyed me because the point

of the dish is that it’s our take on paella, using

amazing Scottish seafood and shellfish. People

love it and that’s all that matters.”

One customer who clearly does like what The

Ship has to offer is the Michelin-star chef Tom

Kitchin, another Leith restaurateur who pops

in regularly with his family. “Tom was away

filming and brought in the legendary chef

Pierre Koffmann to look after The Kitchin,”

says Murray. “He came here to dine – now

that was pressure because I was in the kitchen

that night myself and we had a couple of big

parties in as well.”

Murray doesn’t cook so much these days – he

leaves his kitchen in the capable hands of head

chef Willie Lonnie, who joined the business

not long after it opened. “The thing about

Willie is that he shares our passion and wants

perfection in the kitchen,” says Murray. “If he’s

not happy with it, it won’t make it to the table.

He’s also a great ideas guy. Although much

of our food is actually quite simple, it’s great

to introduce new and unexpected flavours –

diners like that.

“We incorporate a lot of Asian flavours, for

example, because they marry well with fish,”

Murray explains. “Our mussel and smoked

Aberdeen haddock pakora with lime yoghurt

is a good example of this but some dishes

have French influences. Scottish food doesn’t

have to be so traditionally Scottish all the


SUMMER 13 INTERVIEWtime. People travel and eat different food

when they’re on holiday so why wouldn’t they

welcome the opportunity to try something a

little different back at home?”

Influenced themselves by places they visit all

over the world, Murray and Tracey came up

with their idea for a seafood restaurant and

champagne bar after a trip to Spain. “We both

love seafood and we both love champagne so

we thought if we could turn our passion into a

business, it would be perfect for us,” explains

Tracey. “The Ship came up for sale seven years

ago and everything started to take shape

from there.”

For Murray, the story is quite a remarkable

one as he actually managed The Ship back in

1988 when it first opened. “I always liked The

Ship – its location, the atmosphere and the

people,” he says. “I moved about a bit and did

some other things then had the tenancy of the

King’s Wark along the road for 12 years, but

this was a chance to branch out completely on

our own. I’ve got 30 years’ experience in the

hospitality industry and worked in pubs, hotels

and cocktail bars but nothing gives you more

satisfaction than running your own business.”

In the early days, Murray – a self-taught chef –

did all the cooking although he concedes that

Tracey was “the backbone of the business,

in the kitchen peeling spuds and washing

dishes”. She laughs: “It seems such a long

time ago now but you do everything you have

to do to get your business started and you

work the long hours without much time off or

holidays. It’s hard but it’s the same for everyone

trying to establish a new business.”

When the couple bought The Ship it was

trading predominantly as a bar serving beer

and food. “We changed things quite gradually

because we didn’t want to alienate existing

customers but we explained to people what

we were doing,” Murray points out. “We did

little cosmetic things to start with – freshening

things up, changing some of the décor,

that type of thing – because we weren’t in

a position to close down for weeks on end.

Structurally, everything was sound.”

More recently, however, The Ship did close

for three weeks to allow an extension and

full refurbishment of the kitchen. “It was

long overdue because it was so small,” says

Tracey. “When Murray was the chef he was

largely in there on his own. Willie has another

four chefs working for him now and with

the other kitchen staff it was just too small.

To say he’s delighted with the outcome is an

understatement. We’ve even been able to

give him a window!” The couple secured a

£60,000 agreement with Santander Corporate

& Commercial to finance the work.

“When we first spoke to Santander we got an

instant feeling that they really understood us

and our business,” says Murray.

“We were surprised – pleasantly surprised,

in fact – that they took such an interest and

wanted to learn more about us and how

we operate.

“They came to the restaurant several times to

see us when others simply weren’t interested

and that instilled great confidence in us.

“We have a very simple approach here and

I think that appealed to Santander. We’re

absolutely delighted with the way things have

worked out and looking forward to further

strengthening the relationship in the future.”

There is still some more decorating work to

be carried out and some other subtle tweaks,

all under the watchful eye of Tracey, a former

lecturer in education and arts at Telford

College in Edinburgh. Her artistic and creative

influence can be seen throughout The Ship,

not least in her decision to display art by her

brother, Davy Macdonald, whose original oil

paintings adorn the walls throughout the

premises. His work is a celebration of the

Belle Époque era which captures the essence

of a period when glamour, elegance and

sophistication took centre stage.

With menus that change daily depending

on the season and availability, The Ship is an

outstanding champion for the Scottish food

and drink industry. “Let’s face it, Scotland has

the finest seafood in the world,” Murray points

out, recalling a recent holiday in Dubai when

he complimented a restaurant for its delicious

scallops. “The waiter said they were from

Scotland – I think that sums it up!”

Some 95% of The Ship’s seafood is Scottish

and supplied daily by Gary Welch, one of

Edinburgh’s oldest-established traditional

fish merchants. The Ship also has its own

Bunnahabhain smoked salmon – smoked

by Welch to Murray and Tracey’s recipe –

and is a member of the Sustainable

Restaurant Association.

Meanwhile, the Georgesons use other locally-

sourced products such as organic eggs from

Phantassie Farm in East Lothian. Bread is

baked using traditional French methods and

supplied by Le Petit Francais while wines and

champagnes are supplied by Fife-based l’Art

du Vin.

“Provenance is hugely important to us,” Tracey

explains. “Customers are increasingly asking

us where their food comes from and our staff

are always able to tell them. It’s something else

that gives us a point of difference over other

restaurants and it also makes the customer’s

experience more memorable – every little

thing helps and it’s that attention to detail that

makes all the difference. With simple, fresh

food that is beautifully presented and friendly,

efficient staff who are knowledgeable about

the food they serve, you can’t go wrong, in

our opinion.”

With the key summer tourism season kicking

in and hopes of a boom in the number of

visitors coming to Scotland next year for

the Commonwealth Games, Ryder Cup and

Homecoming Scotland, the Georgesons are

confident that business will continue on its

present upward curve. Good weather is also

a bonus.

“I know how unpredictable the hospitality

industry can be but I think we’ve got the recipe

just right here,” suggests Murray. “We’re

looking ahead with confidence and see an

exciting future for The Ship.” n

Provenance is hugely important to us and customers are increasingly asking us where their food is from

XXXXXXXX SUMMER 13

18SPECIAL REPORT | SUMMER 13 FOOD & DRINK IN SCOTLAND18SPECIAL REPORT | SUMMER 13 FOOD & DRINK IN SCOTLAND

INTERVIEW SUMMER 13

MICHELIN MAN ON THE MARCH

The culinary business Martin Wishart cooked up on the back of a recession 15 years ago is now rapidly expanding into an empire

as it spreads its reach across Scotland. Karen Peattie meets the leading chef to uncover the ingredients of his success

>>

SUMMER 13 XXXXXXXX

19 SPECIAL REPORT | SUMMER 13FOOD & DRINK IN SCOTLAND 19 SPECIAL REPORT | SUMMER 13FOOD & DRINK IN SCOTLAND

SUMMER 13 INTERVIEW

SPECIAL REPORT | SUMMER 13 FOOD & DRINK IN SCOTLAND


SUMMER 13 INTERVIEWMartin Wishart may well be one of the UK’s

leading chefs and recipient of two Michelin

stars but this reserved restaurateur sees himself

as the director of a finely-tuned orchestra

rather than the soloist. What’s more, he prefers

to let his food do the talking.

For starters, he’s a shrewd businessman intent

on expanding his culinary portfolio which

currently includes Restaurant Martin Wishart

on The Shore in Edinburgh’s Port of Leith,

its sister restaurant at the five-star Cameron

House on Loch Lomond, contemporary French-

style brasserie The Honours in the capital’s New

Town and Cook School by Martin Wishart, just

five minutes’ from the restaurant in Leith.

Wishart doesn’t necessarily display it outwardly

but he is excited about the way in which his

business is moving forward – a trip north

to Aberdeen to check out premises for a

potential new brasserie that would trade

under The Honours name is imminent. And as

young daughters Clara, eight, and six-year-

old Amy play quietly at a corner table – it’s

school holiday week – Wishart talks about the

challenges of growing a business like his.

“It needs to be manageable and you need to

have good people around you,” he points out.

“Hospitality isn’t an easy business to be in –

you need to be tenacious and you need to be

patient; success doesn’t come overnight and

you quickly learn how hard you have to work.”

In Wishart’s case, wife and business partner

Cecile is very much the backbone of the

business, looking after the wider business

aspect of the group. Restaurant manager

Jean-Christophe Frogé is also a key member

of the team and responsible for front of house

at Leith, while Graeme Cheevers is head

chef at Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond, Paul

Tamburrini is head chef at The Honours and

Kevin Ramsay the principal tutor at the Cook

School. Steven Spear, restaurant manager at

The Honours, has also proved invaluable to

the business.

Wishart opened his eponymous restaurant in

Leith back in 1999, winning his first Michelin

star two years later and, crucially, retaining

it every year since. Martin Wishart at Loch

Lomond, which opened in 2009, received its

first Michelin star in 2011. Even for a chef

at the very top of his game this is no mean

feat. Again, Wishart plays down his success,

pointing to the support of the people around

him and those who have inspired him as being

equally deserving of the Michelin accolade.

“When you have a Michelin star or win any

award, for that matter, it helps pull people into

your restaurant and gives your team a great

morale boost,” he says. “People start to talk

about you and of course that’s going to be

good for business. However, I didn’t open my

restaurant to get a Michelin star.”

He’s certainly had a colourful and varied

career to date, leaving school at 15 to work

in a kitchen on a YTS scheme. No-one

expects Wishart to wash dishes these days

although it’s a task that is no way beneath

him as subsequent years training under such

renowned chefs as Albert Roux, Marco Pierre

White and John Burton-Race taught him. “It’s

all about respect,” he says. “Everyone has their

job in a busy kitchen but you all muck in when

needs be and it’s important to encourage

young people and nurture them – if you don’t

gain their respect you’ll turn them off.”

It’s an issue very close to Wishart’s heart. As

someone who started at the bottom himself

it is important to him now that he takes on

the role of mentor. In 2008, for example, he

launched the Scottish Food Scholarship to

develop and encourage talented young chefs

across Scotland.

“We created a real buzz with this and got

great publicity which raised awareness of our

profession but you need a lot of funding to

keep something like that going,” says Wishart,

somewhat wearily. “You also need to put a

lot of time and energy into it and that’s not

always easy when your own business needs

even more of your time and energy. But we

ran it for four years and I think we made

a difference.”

Yet Wishart’s desire to nurture up-and-coming

talent is probably even stronger now. “I can

always spot a spark of talent in my kitchen and

if that spark is there, I want to develop it,” he

explains. “When I see it, I immerse that person

in what we do to see how they respond then

put them under the wing of another member

of the team to help build their confidence and

learn as much possible.

“The next stage will be to move them to

a specific section – the cheese trolley, for

example. They have to choose the cheese and

take control of the stock levels, do reports and

so on. They have to taste the cheese and know

the cheese. It’s like giving them a mini business

to run and when they rise to the challenge it’s

great to see.”

Meanwhile, he is working with the hospitality

department at Edinburgh’s Telford College

and has already given three former students

full-time employment, one of whom is still

working in Restaurant Martin Wishart. He

is also talking to Queen Margaret University

about establishing an apprenticeship scheme.

“Training and the way we train people has

changed in recent years because of the

internet,” he points out. “I believe that it’s

more effective to train someone in their place

of work, with the academic side being done

online.”

Wishart points to David Wither, founder of

the highly successful Montpeliers (Edinburgh)

group of boutique hotels, bars and restaurants,

including Tigerlily and the Opal Lounge. He

has developed an online training business –

Flow Hospitality Training – to offer a range

of interactive modules covering all of the

fundamental areas of service and legislative

training for the hospitality sector.

“We’ve incorporated this model into The

Honours and it’s proved extremely effective in

helping us monitor the progress we’re making

in staff training,” Wishart points out. “I don’t

think you have to do everything yourself >>

I can always spot a spark of talent in my kitchen and if that spark is there, I want to develop it


and if someone with the experience of David

Wither is forward-thinking enough to create

a package like this in an area as important as

training then you’d be crazy not to use it.”

Michelin stars or no Michelin stars, Wishart’s

aim is to give every diner an amazing

experience – food, of course, service and

ambience. He doesn’t want people to come

to Leith or Loch Lomond and feel intimidated.

Take Restaurant Martin Wishart, for example.

Its somewhat understated exterior and airy but

elegant interior immediately make customers

feel at home. Regular diners and tourists sit

comfortably alongside business diners.

“We have a real mix of customers,” says Frogé,

the restaurant manager. “This week, we are

really busy with a lot of Chinese tourists and

we’re gearing up for graduation time when

we’re always fully booked. It’s good to have

such a diverse customer base, particularly for

the front of house staff because we get to

meet so many different people – we are very

much a people business, after all.”

Many come because they want to dine in

Edinburgh’s first Michelin-star restaurant and

experience Wishart’s legendary modern French

cuisine, lovingly prepared and presented using

the finest Scottish ingredients. Orkney scallops

and Shetland monkfish rub shoulders on his

menus with prime fillet of Scotch Beef, and

locally-sourced vegetables and herbs – and if

he’s not personally satisfied with the produce,

it won’t reach the plate. Is it difficult to source

locally and seasonally? Not if you keep things

really simple, suggests Wishart. “I think we can

all get carried away when we talk about ‘local’

because some products simply aren’t available

locally,” he points out. “With fish, ‘local’ to me

means that it comes from around the Scottish

coastline but first and foremost you need to

find a reputable and reliable supplier – you

can’t afford to be let down because then you

let your customers down and that’s bad for

your business and reputation.

“Seasonality is another issue,” Wishart

continues. “Take the game season in Scotland

– it’s unique because you can source grouse

from August through to February, then

pheasant and woodcock, both of which are

fantastic meats. We should all be making

much more of game. What is important,

though, is consistency of product and for some

small suppliers that can be quite difficult.

“Staff also need to be knowledgeable and that

can be a challenge, particularly during a busy

service when a customer is asking questions

about provenance. They already have a lot to

focus on and everything requires training and

tasting and experiencing the menus, certainly

in our case. But it can still be kept simple: if

you mention a farm, know where that farm

is and if you have a particular cut of meat on

the menu, such as pork tenderloin, make sure

staff have tasted the dish so they can discuss

its flavour and texture if asked.” Meanwhile,

another crucial aspect of the Leith restaurant

is the fact that Wishart is there, in the kitchen,

pretty much most of the time. It is very much

the hub of his culinary empire with Graeme

Cheevers the face of Cameron House and

Tamburrini in charge at The Honours.

“I spend a lot of time with Graeme, Paul and

the rest of the team coming up with new

ideas and because we all work so well together

it’s a strategy that works,” says Wishart.

“It’s satisfying introducing something new to

the menu after we’ve worked on it for a while

and fine-tuned it – that’s when you get that

buzz and that’s what spurs you on to the

next thing.” Wishart reveals that he has

been experimenting with an American juice

extractor, using fresh peas that retain all

their nutritional value and flavour. He also

plans to use it to experiment with potential

replacements for meat juices. That business hat

goes on again: “It’s about doing something

different, something others aren’t doing,” he

explains, “and if it can also help you rein in

your costs, then it’s even better.”

Years of working and travelling overseas have

taught this most enterprising of chefs not

to fear change or taking the occasional risk.

After all, when he opened Restaurant Martin

Wishart almost 15 years ago it was on the

back of a recession. Working in Europe, the

USA and Australia with some of the world’s

most successful chefs, he has been inspired not

just by individuals but by restaurants, and their

design and location.

“Great food is one thing but if you’re not

serving it in the right location with the right

décor and fantastic service, it’s not going

to work.”

He cites The Honours as a prime example,

inspired by visits to French brasseries, including

one in Bordeaux where he enjoyed exceptional

food at very reasonable prices. “I reckoned

something like this would work really well

in Edinburgh, a less formal restaurant where

diners can relax but still count on amazing

food without paying Michelin-star prices.”

The fact Wishart is now considering expanding

this franchise into both Aberdeen and Glasgow

suggests that customers agree with his

philosophy. It may well be a departure from

his fine-dining background but Wishart

is a canny Scot and knows there is only

room for so many Michelin-star restaurants

in Edinburgh.

As Scotland gears up for 2014 with the

Commonwealth Games and the Ryder Cup,

Wishart would like to see the wider hospitality

adopt a little more pizzazz. “Let’s believe in

ourselves a little bit more,” he urges. “When

you go to somewhere like New York there’s

an excitement that we just don’t have here – I

think we’re doing well and the food and drink

industry is in a good place just now but we

shouldn’t pat ourselves on the back too much

because there’s still a long way to go.

“The Government is trying but our industry

still needs more encouragement. It’s all very

well talking about 2014 and everything that’s

happening next year but it’s only one block on

the calendar and we need to look beyond that,

to the legacy it will leave. Yes, of course I think

there will be opportunities for us next year but

we need to keep it in perspective.”

With talented and passionate chefs like Martin

Wishart at the helm, the Scottish hospitality

sector is in very safe hands indeed. n

INTERVIEW SUMMER 13

Hospitality isn’t an easy business to be in. You need to be tenacious patient; success doesn’t come overnight



It’s a key business driver for Scotland, up

there with energy, life sciences and financial

services, so the food and drink sector is of vital

importance to the Scottish economy.

With a 28% increase in sales of Scottish brands

in the UK and a 50% rise in food exports taking

total food and drink turnover to £12.4bn, how

can the industry maximise growth opportunities

and what additional support is needed to

keep national and international trading

momentum high?

These were among the key issues discussed

at the BQ Live Debate in Glasgow on a sunny

June evening. Key industry figures along with

established producers, some at the beginning

of their business journey and representatives

from the event’s sponsor, Santander Corporate

& Commercial, gathered within the plush

surroundings of the city’s boutique Blythwood

Square Hotel, famous in its illustrious former

life as The Royal Scottish Automobile Club

(RSAC). The debate kicked off with a well-

deserved round of applause for one of the

participants, Brendan Maher of St James

Smokehouse in Annan, whose company had

claimed three accolades at the prestigious

Scotland Food & Drink Excellence Awards the

previous week – Business of the Year, Export

Business of the Year and, for Maher himself,

Scottish Food & Drink Entrepreneur.

Against this positive backdrop and the fact the

impressive figures mentioned above mean that

industry leadership organisation, Scotland Food

& Drink, is already 99% of the way to achieving

its target of growing the value of the industry

to £12.5bn by 2017, the debate touched on

several pertinent issues: exporting, provenance,

skills and education, collaboration, health,

innovation and sustainability.

First off, though, chairman Caroline Theobald

invited everyone round the table to introduce

themselves, setting the scene for the debate

that was to follow. For some guests, however,

it was straight down to business with one

immediately sharing some of the challenges

facing his sector, salmon farming.

Scott Landsburgh, chief executive of the

Scottish Salmon Producers’ Organisation, said:

“We are a very consolidated industry now;

in association with

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

TAKING PARTKevin Boyd, divisional managing

director, Santander Corporate &

Commercial

Jim Fairlie, farmer

Steve Hand, regional business

development director, Santander

Corporate & Commercial

Simon Hannah, managing director, JW

Filshill

Adam Hardie, head of food and drink,

Johnston Carmichael

Martin Henderson, owner, Findlater’s

Fine Foods

Donnie Maclean, chief executive, Eat

Balanced

Brendan Maher, managing director, St

James Smokehouse

Colin Millar, partner, McClure Naismith

LLP

Uel Morton, chief executive, Quality

Meat Scotland

Scott Landsburgh, chief executive,

Scottish Salmon Producers’ Organisation

David Shaw, commercial director, Genius

Foods

Graham Silcock, regional director,

Scotland, Santander Corporate &

Commercial

Petra Wetzel, owner, West Brewery

James Withers, chief executive, Scotland

Food & Drink

For BQ Scotland: Karen Peattie

In the chair: Caroline Theobald

BQ Live venue: Blythswood Square

Hotel, Blythswood Square, Glasgow

BQ is highly regarded as a leading

independent commentator on business

issues, many of which have a bearing

on the current and future success of the

region’s business economy. BQ Live is a

series of informative debates designed

to further contribute to the success

and prosperity of our regional economy

through the debate, discussion and

feedback of a range of key business

topics and issues.

The issue: How can we maximise growth opportunities in the Scottish food and drink sector and what additional support is needed to keep national and international trading momentum high?


SUMMER 13 DEBATE

We could easily increase production. In fact, every salmon we produce we could sell today never mind tomorrow. We could double production.

we really only have eight companies, by and

large Norwegian-owned. In the last three

years we have reinvested just under £170m in

the industry which in the rural Highlands and

Islands is quite significant money. I know of at

least three remote communities that would not

survive without the salmon farm in the bay. So

it is not without its challenges.

“Planning is a problem. We could easily

increase production. In fact, every salmon

we produce we could sell today never mind

tomorrow. We could double production. Ten

years ago we produced 152,000 tonnes of

salmon and this year we will produce 152,000

tonnes of salmon.

“We are flatlining – we’re not going anywhere.

In world terms we’re in reverse and that’s down

to the fact that we can’t get development

planning. We’ve got the money for it but it is

very difficult to unlock the planning system in

certain parts of Scotland. We are addressing

that, obviously, but it is a frustration and a very

slow process.”

Jim Fairlie, the Perthshire sheep and beef

farmer who was a founder of Perth Farmers’

Market – the first in Scotland – said: “I take

massive pride in producing top-quality beef

and lamb, and there is a massive role to play in

getting people to recognise what they have on

their doorstep and showing them how to cook

it and how to use it.

“Kids have to learn where their food comes

from and we have to show them that there is a

career at the end of it.

“I have to take my hat off to James Withers

and QMS (Quality Meat Scotland), who have

done a brilliant job, but also the present

Scottish Government.

“As a farmer, we have never been so well

represented as we are now.

“2014 is going to be huge. If we get that right,

our industry’s exports are going to be massively

increased. We must give people such a good

experience that they want to come back

here again.”

Scott Landsburgh: “I agree with Jim that the

Scottish Government has been very good and

Richard Lochhead is an excellent standard-

bearer for the food industry in general, as is

James Withers, but we do have to look at

where our development is coming from in the

primary industries.

“We are on the cusp of all the fish that’s

eaten in the world, the majority of it will

be farmed – that’s from this year. Another

interesting thing to note is that the European

Union imports 65% of all the fish it consumes

which, considering the coastline it has,

is ridiculous.”

Caroline Theobald asked what the industry

in Scotland can be doing better, participants

retorting with an array of answers – some

predictable but others less so. What was

particularly interesting, however, was the way

in which a discussion about collaboration

quickly morphed into one about mentoring. In

fact, training and mentoring were the recurring

themes of the evening.

James Withers: “Collaboration is the key. We

are a nation of SMEs – 80% of our companies

employ less than 10 people – so we need

to better support them, particularly around

international business.”

David Shaw: “We don’t have a business that

has a £2m-per-annum marketing budget so

we have no choice but to be collaborative in

some shape or form. But if you become too

collaborative in your way to market you lose

your focus and become one of 300 similar

products in your sector. So we need to be

smarter. We are all good at innovation but

not commercialisation.”

Brendan Maher: “There’s a feeling that when

you’re a one-trick pony, no-one is going to do

the job as well as you can. We have always

struggled when we’re using brokers in that

respect. There’s one we deal with in the US

but do they really care if they are selling Scotch

Beef or St James salmon?

Simon Hannah: “I can relate to what

Brendan is saying because as a wholesaler,

what my company sells is not unique but it >>


DEBATE SUMMER 13

is our desire to take a product and get that

product to the consumer as efficiently as

possible. Distribution is not your only route to

selling more products – it is getting the right

distribution and doing it in the most sustainable

way possible.”

Martin Henderson spoke about the strength

of brands in Scotland. “Not only do we have

strong branding we have quality. We have to

play to those strengths. We’ve had a lot of

help and support, from Santander, Scottish

Enterprise and SDI. But I think the Scottish

Government could do more to help SMEs.

When you’re very, very small it’s hard to get

traction. You have a great product but you

need more help to get that product and great

ideas off the ground.”

Adam Hardie: “We have run a lot of sessions

recently, particularly in the east of Scotland,

looking at opportunities for joint buying

groups. There is a collaboration with breweries

just now that is quite exciting and Scotland is

very much punching above its weight. What

we need to do is get people to share common

experiences. We have started the journey and

are continuing – people are saying they are

interested in what others have to say.”

Petra Wetzel: “In 2009, I invited every brewer

in Scotland to do this. They all came because

they were curious but no-one wanted to

collaborate because they were all so insular.”

Colin Millar: “There are positives and

negatives. People should be aware that you can

damage your brand and reputation by going

into the wrong type of collaboration. They

don’t always work the way you think so you

need to know how you are going to get out

of them.”

Jim Fairlie: “It depends who you are selling to.

By collaborating, we are going to send out a

picture that we are vibrant and dynamic.”

Uel Morton described Scotland Food &

Drink as “a great umbrella for collaboration”,

pointing out that without it the industry

would not be in the position it is today, with

the Scottish Government so supportive. “We

wouldn’t be here without Scotland Food &

Drink. It is the lynchpin for collaboration within

our industry.”

Donnie Maclean, whose young business Eat

Balanced markets healthy pizzas, was next

to get his views across. He pointed out that

he was interested in mentoring, a process

that was, to a certain extent, collaboration

but a different type of collaboration. He said:

“There’s a lack of intellectual property (IP) in the

food and drink sector so people are going to

be cagey about putting their heads together.

But I’m talking about mentoring and speaking

to people who have done a lot in their business

life and are in a position to want to help you.

The major retailers are squashing brands and

you are fighting for a smaller and smaller space

in certain categories.”

Petra Wetzel: “I would go further and

say that education and inspiration are

important. I found it really difficult to find

people in Scotland to inspire me to be better

in my business so I went to London to find

someone.” Wetzel, whose passion for Scotland

was piqued when she read the book ‘Scotland

the Brand’ at school in Germany when she was

14, added: “That has stuck with me because

one of the things I want to do is export to

markets like the US. Scotland really is such a

powerful brand and we all need to use it.”

Simon Hannah: “The people who want

mentors go looking for them. I have a mentor

myself and he has helped me hugely in

structuring the future direction of my business.

I’m also a member of the Council of the

Scottish Wholesale Association and we have a

mentoring scheme for up-and-coming people

within the industry. I think there is a role for

trade associations of all shapes and sizes to be

able to facilitate this.

“My mentor is not someone involved in my

industry – I felt I needed someone from outside

my sector – but he is someone I trust.

“That is essential.”

James Withers: “We have a bank of people

who are mentors but perhaps we fall into the

trap that Simon has mentioned? They are all

from within the industry.”

Kevin Boyd: “There are definitely mentors out

there with a lot of experience.”

Steve Hand: “I think the hardest trick is to

encourage your staff to buy into that process –

it’s a big marketing job for companies.”

Donnie Maclean revealed that he had recently

gone back to his old primary and secondary

schools to talk to pupils about his business and


SUMMER 13 DEBATEinspire them, suggesting everyone in business

should be proactive in educating young people

who, after all, are the business people and

entrepreneurs of tomorrow. “If you get them

in at grass-roots level and inspire them early, it

helps get them off on the right track.”

Uel Morton: “We don’t do enough to talk the

food and drink industry up as a career.”

Brendan Maher: “The food industry is

definitely sexy right now. The perception of a

career in food and drink has changed, I think.

People are exposed to all the TV chefs and

food shows so subconsciously they’re thinking

about it.”

Petra Wetzel: “We get lawyers and bankers

looking for a career change wanting to come

and work for us so I definitely agree with what

Brendan says.”

David Shaw suggested that the challenge

was to stop skilled, young people from leaving

Scotland in the first place: “We are not holding

on to them. I still see hugely talented people

in this country – in all my time working down

south I never saw my head office workforce

with less than 20% of Scots. The reality is that

a lot of people can’t move onto the next level

in their careers without moving south. They

don’t necessarily want to go.”

Brendan Maher: “So are people only coming

back to Scotland because of their families or

because they want a different lifestyle?”

Adam Hardie: “We need to grow global

business here in Scotland.”

Donnie Maclean intimated that he is currently

looking for investors to help grow his business.

“None seem to have an appetite for the

food industry,” he suggested. “I think I’m

going to have to go south of the Border to

get investment because I can’t get any

interest here. Yes, people are interested in

investing but in high-tech, high-risk and

high-return businesses.”

Martin Henderson: “I got grants for capital

investment and other support that I’ve

already mentioned but I don’t think everyone

necessarily knows that help is out there – the

onus is on you to find out. That takes time and

new businesses don’t have time.”

On that note, Caroline Theobald moved

the debate on to the export issue and with a

63% rise in food exports since 2007, Scottish

companies clearly have an appetite for

overseas markets where there is scope for

considerable growth.

James Withers: “This is an area where the

industry needs to be really focused. The needs

of seafood differ from those of red meat, dairy,

bakery and so on. We need to look beyond

Europe which accounts for over 70%. Food

and drink is now Scotland’s fastest-rowing

export sector so it’s crucial that we tap into

the emerging markets like China, Singapore

and so on. We need to develop these routes

to market which means upping our game. In

the UK we have a good distribution network

but internationally there are so many other

considerations – different languages and

packaging, for example.”

Scott Landsburgh: “We can’t reject our home

market, in our case 2.5% of our industry. But

our opportunities are outwith these shores.”

He also spoke about provenance and brand

authenticity, reminding the debate that salmon

is Scotland’s largest food export and worldwide

retail value of Scottish farmed salmon is now

over £1bn.

Brendan Maher, in his introduction earlier

in the evening, said that when he started his

business he saw a lot of “Mickey Mouse”

Scottish salmon which was actually from Chile

and smoked in Miami or New York with a bit

of tartan on the bag. He said: “Americans

thought this was Scottish but no part of it was

the real deal. So I started St James Smokehouse

to give America, where there are a lot of Irish,

Scottish, British ex-pats, genuine product from

Scotland. But I wanted to be restrained in the

way I used tartan. I don’t want the Loch Ness

Monster on my bags. We have to be strong on

provenance, brand and authenticity.”

Uel Morton chimed with Maher’s views on

provenance and branding, pointing to the

QMS brands of Scotch Beef, Scotch Lamb and

Specially Selected Pork. Quality, he said, sets

the standards for production not just within his

own sector but across the Scottish food and

drink industry.

But he questioned: “How can we increase >>

At the top of the evening, chairman Caroline Theobald referred to the “elephant in the room”,

and asked the BQ Live Debate guests for their views. West Brewery’s Petra Wetzel was quick to

put her hand up: “Whoever explains to me how it is going to work is going to get my vote.”

Her sentiment was echoed by JW Filshill’s Simon Hannah, who pointed to the “confusing

messages” coming out of both the Yes and No camps with those wanting independence

“screaming about it from the rooftops” and being very vocal. “But those who are not for

independence don’t seem to be saying anything,” he suggested. “People who don’t spend a

huge amount of time looking at politics are looking for external influences in helping them make

a decision. The big challenge is to get proper debate through trusted sources.”

According to Martin Henderson of Findlater’s, the media is extremely biased in the way it presents

information on the independence issue with much of it pro-Union. That is why a lot of people

find it difficult to say that they know anything about it – there is so much inflammatory language

being used in the media. People then find it hard to discuss any meaningful facts.”

James Withers of Scotland Food & Drink said that “if you are waiting for the facts to emerge

before the referendum you will be waiting forever”.

Meanwhile, Donnie Maclean of Eat Balanced presented a thought-provoking analogy, stating:

“If you were looking at the independence debate as a business you would be looking at the

management team and the finance team,” he suggested. “There are some good people there

but not enough good people.”

Uel Morton of Quality Meat Scotland raised an issue with regard to his industry in that Scotland

is different from an agriculture point of view and has 85% less favoured areas [areas of the

country designated under European Union rules as needing extra financial support to sustain

farming communities]. In England, it is the direct opposite.

“We need to have the freedom to negotiate what is right for Scotland in an EU context,”

he said.

Independence


production when farmers are farming

fewer animals? We have demand for the

brands but how do we turn round the

economics of producing them?

“We recognise the inherent value that is in

a brand like red meat but we need to export

more because we will never fully recognise

the value of our brands if we are solely

supplying the UK.”

Health, of course, is another key issue facing

the industry and forms a major strand of

Scotland’s national food and drink policy.

Donnie Maclean pointed out that, in his view,

consumers were much more in tune with the

health debate south of the Border.

He said: “I was in London and saw that people

were switched on more to the health message.

We’re in business to make money.

I want to see more Scots take it on board but in

business you can’t afford to hang about – you

have to go where the business is.”

Jim Fairlie then used his business an example

of consumer misconceptions about what

constitutes healthy food. “We take our

produce to T in the Park where we sell beef

burgers, lamb burgers and so on,” he said.

“When we first started it was people of my

own generation who would buy them – now

we get the teenagers actually coming to seek

us out because they’ve heard about our ‘posh’

burgers. I explain that they are not like mass-

produced burgers – they are wholesome with

nothing nasty in them.”

James Withers: “The horsemeat scandal

has definitely made people more aware of

provenance and authenticity. People are

thinking that perhaps they should be spending

more on food to get the quality. There’s a bit

of a culture change just now.”

Jim Fairlie: “It’s interesting that the biggest

resistance we’ve had was at a festival called

Rewind at Scone Palace where it was people

of my own age group who weren’t prepared

to pay a bit extra for a good quality burger.

They were happy to pay 50p less for something

of dubious quality.

“We’ve been working with kids in Perth and

Kinross for a long time now and they are far

more switched on that we give them credit

for. In fact, there’s lots of really good stuff

happening in schools and it’s a joy to see. At

Perth High School, for example, we got children

to turn over ground to grow vegetables. They

not only had to grow produce, they had to sell

it to the Home Economics department then

they created a five-star gourmet meal in the

Long Room of Scone Palace. Pupils also served

the dinner.

“Chefs including Andrew Fairlie of Gleneagles

were involved – the whole exercise was to

encourage an emphasis on local produce,

highlighting the links between the farm and

the plate, but also showing that you can have

a great career in the hospitality industry.

“Under the Curriculum for Excellence you have

the opportunity to bring so much more into

education – it also creates entrepreneurship.”

Graham Silcock, regional director, Scotland,

Santander Corporate & Commercial, was

hugely impressed by Fairlie’s tenacity in the

education arena.

“I think it’s admirable,” he said. “We’re

DEBATE SUMMER 13


involved with the Santander Social Enterprise

Development Awards which aim to support

social enterprises and community interest

companies looking to grow their business and

improve their local community.

“The awards are targeted at established social

enterprises with two or more years of trading

that have ambitions to develop their business

but need a financial boost to help them realise

their ideas.

“All of these things are important – we need

more of them.”

Uel Morton: “Everything that helps generate

interest in food and where it comes from is

a good thing. I agree that the celebrity chef

culture is a positive thing for the food and drink

industry. At QMS, we also do a lot of work

with schools and launched our Meat Voucher

Scheme which enables secondary schools to

get vouchers worth up to £100 to exchange for

Scotch Beef, Scotch Lamb or Specially Selected

Pork at local retailers.

“It’s part of our work to educate young people

on the role red meat can play in a healthy diet

and it has been extremely successful.”

Colin Millar: “It also brings it back to

provenance and quality, doesn’t it? I find this all

very interesting in forming my views on what

I can bring to my clients in the food and drink

sector. This debate is helping me work out

what is relevant to them.”

Petra Wetzel agreed: “For me, it is not about

quantity over quality. I am not prepared to

cut corners.”

Uel Morton: “I’m very pleased because the

debate has shown how important education is

for our industry. Every year we are putting more

cash into these activities. It’s very encouraging

to hear how interested everyone around the

table is in this area.”

Kevin Boyd: “Finding out more about Scotland

Food & Drink gives us a good entry point to do

more in the industry. Can we do more to help

from an education perspective? We’re more

than happy to talk to you about it.”

Simon Hannah: “I’ve been at other debates

where people have banged on about the banks

and how awful they are but surely it’s time to

stop moaning and be more proactive ourselves?

In business, there are some things you can

influence and others you can’t. I’ve said before

that you need a point of difference and it

is true that in my business, there are many

independent retailers who are struggling to

get finance.

“They have great ideas and want to make their

businesses better and more profitable but they

can’t access funds.

“The only way they will survive is by investing

so, as a company, we are trying to bridge that

gap by lending them the money to install

new Epos systems which help them run their

businesses more efficiently and cost-effectively.

What do we get in return?

“Well, we get a bigger share of their business

but, crucially, information we can use to get

better deals with suppliers that they can in turn

pass on to their customers – the consumer.”

Steve Hand: “The banks haven’t had the best

SUMMER 13 DEBATE

At Santander Corporate and Commercial, we were delighted to be associated with this enthralling

debate, which brought together some of Scotland’s successful entrepreneurs and industry opinion

formers who all share the same aim – to capitalise on the opportunities and continue to make the

most of our thriving food and drink industry.

Overall, aided and supported by the Scottish Government, the sector is in good shape and is on

track to surpass the targeted contribution to the Scottish economy set by Scotland Food & Drink,

the still young (established in 2007) but already influential body that drives Scotland’s Food and

Drink companies to increase their profitability. However there’s no room for complacency and

it was heartening to see all contributors talk so passionately about encouraging the industry to

challenge itself to do more. This collective optimism really shone through. Despite the challenges

we have seen in the economy during recent years, the desire to drive for quality and maintain

brand authenticity and provenance showed just why this industry has continued to thrive both at

home and elsewhere around the world.

In order to grow further, there are still things that must be addressed and several of these came

out during the evening. For example, despite salmon being Scotland’s largest food export, we still

only produce the same quantity that we did 10 years ago – what can be done to change this?

And looking further to the future and despite the prominence that food and drink enjoys in the

media, why do so many young people who work in the sector either straight from school or to

support studies, seem so quick to dismiss remaining in the industry when considering longer term

career choices? Clearly there’s a need to improve overall attitudes and get more young people

committed to the sector - providing them with genuine career opportunities and in so doing

improving the retention of talent for the benefit of the Scottish economy.

There remain many opportunities for Scotland’s Food and Drink entrepreneurs to exploit and,

judging by the determination of those present at this debate, the sector is well placed to fulfil

its potential for many years to come. At Santander Corporate and Commercial, we have made a

commitment to play our part in supporting the sector through helping these ambitious business

leaders achieve their goals.

Graham Silcock, Regional Director, Santander Corporate and Commercial, Scotland

Fuelling the Ambition of Scotland’s Food and Drink Sector

of press but I think we’re in a good position.

We have a 4-5% market share and our aim is

to double that over the next few years so we

want to engage with ambitious companies.

Some of our early success can be seen in this

sector. What better place for us to operate in

and where there is so much quality, that is a

banker’s dream.

“I am privileged to be part of this debate rather

than be sitting on the outside watching it

going on.” n

The BQ Live Debate was held at the Blythswood Square Hotel in Glasgow and was chaired by Caroline Theobald, managing director, Bridge Club Ltd.


INTERVIEW SUMMER 13

A TOAST TO THE REVOLUTION

The remarkable rise of Scotland’s food and drink industry in recent years shows no signs of slowing – much to the delight of Richard

Lochhead MSP, who spoke to Karen PeattieChatting to food producers and industry

grandees in Edinburgh after the recent

Scotland Food & Drink Excellence Awards,

Richard Lochhead MSP admits to being in

awe of the current levels of innovation within

the industry north of the Border. “There’s a

constant stream of new businesses starting

up and new product development in every

category,” he says. “It’s an incredibly exciting

time for the industry.”

In fact, the Cabinet Secretary for Rural Affairs

and the Environment was “bowled over”

by producers’ passion and commitment to

their businesses. But, crucially, as he mingled

with company owners and producers at the

over-subscribed industry “Oscars” in The

Assembly Rooms, he was exposed to views

and suggestions that will help him better

understand the opportunities – and challenges

– facing the food and drink industry.

Fast-forward one week and Lochhead is still

“buzzing with excitement” after Scotland’s

most prestigious and high-profile food and

drink awards event. Exchanging pleasantries in

his office at the Scottish Parliament, he needs

little encouragement to wax lyrically about

the industry: “I’ve said it before and I will say

it again – there is a food and drink revolution

under way in Scotland. When I was appointed

to this position in 2007 I saw a massive

opportunity for an industry that wasn’t doing

as much as it could be and I think we’ve made

great inroads since then.”

For starters, Lochhead points to the significant

increase in funding for the industry, plus the

creation of industry body Scotland Food &

Drink, organiser of the Excellence Awards

in partnership with The Royal Highland and

Agricultural Society of Scotland (RHASS).

“Launching Scotland Food & Drink was one of

my first tasks,” he recalls. “I remember eating

fresh Scottish langoustines at the launch event

down by the Clyde in Glasgow and thought

the timing was absolutely perfect; a new era

for the industry.

“I’m passionate about food anyway but I was

new to the job and keen to hit the ground

running,” he goes on. “I had a vision to

galvanize the industry and when you have an

opportunity like we do in Scotland with our

amazing food and drink, I couldn’t understand

why more wasn’t being done to promote it.

What I’m seeing now is an excitement in the

industry – an industry that’s become quite sexy.

“We have a sector which Scotland is proud

of and which the rest of the world recognises

and promotes. That creates an environment of

positivity, confidence and potential, and also

an industry offering great career opportunities

for people to take up.”

Referring again to the Scotland Food &

Drink Excellence Awards, Lochhead points

to the sheer variety of products winning

industry accolades – artisan dairy products

from Katy Rodgers in Stirlingshire; healthy

rolls from Pulsetta in Aberdeenshire; craft

beer from The Orkney Brewery; Rannoch

Smokery of Perthshire’s dry-cured smoked wild

Scottish venison; and the 2013 Product of

the Year – velvet truffles and spiced pralines

from chocolatier Iain Burnett, also based in

Perthshire, to name just a few. >>

SUMMER 13 INTERVIEW



Along with other small food and drink

companies the length and breadth of

Scotland, they are all working hard to find a

route to market. And according to Lochhead,

companies don’t need to be big to find

success in niche markets. “I’m seeing inspiring

examples of small firms doing amazing things

everywhere I go,” he says.

“Take craft breweries, for example. Many are

expanding and enjoying excellent year-on-

year growth and there’s an array of other

niche products that are aiming for quality and

bringing growth to the marketplace.

“It’s encouraging to see what people are

capable of, particularly in the run-up to 2014

when the eyes of the world will be upon us.”

Lochhead, of course, is referring to the

Commonwealth Games in Glasgow, the

Ryder Cup at Gleneagles and Homecoming

2014 when Scotland will be very much in

the spotlight. “The massive global attention

on Scotland next year will be the best

possible advertisement for our food and

drink industry,” he suggests, highlighting the

Scottish Food Champions initiative launched

last year to recognise businesses which offer

quality, fresh, seasonal produce as well as

promoting where their food comes from.

A wide range of businesses, from B&Bs and

hotels to food outlets and visitor attractions,

are involved in the scheme, a joint venture

between the Scottish Government and

VisitScotland. It aims to have at least 1000

businesses signed up by 2015. “While we are

taking practical steps on the ground to offer

visitors a fantastic food and drink experience,

we’re also seeing businesses putting their

creative hats on to take advantage of being in

the spotlight,” he continues.

“We want to send visitors back home as

ambassadors for Scottish food and drink. This

is a massive PR and promotional opportunity

that might not happen again.”

Accepting that there are some concerns about

public-sector procurement, Lochhead does his

best to alleviate any fears that smaller food and

drink companies will be edged out by bigger

operators when it comes to winning lucrative

contracts to provide catering services or supply

food and drink to Games venues, including

the Athletes’ Village. Indeed, Scotland Food &

Drink, he points out, has appointed a project

manager to help businesses make the most of

the opportunities presented by next year’s wide

programme of events.

Lochhead draws a parallel with Scotland in

the 18th and 19th centuries when our legacy

to the world was based largely on science,

innovation and invention. “There’s now a

resurgence in the 21st century and I see a clear

INTERVIEW SUMMER 13


SUMMER 13 INTERVIEWopportunity to apply that to food and drink,”

he says. “We have a great science base and

that can support our healthy eating agenda

and dietary goals.”

Health, of course, is a key strand in “Recipe

for Success – Scotland’s National Food and

Drink Policy”, the aim of which is to promote

Scotland’s sustainable economic growth by

ensuring that the Scottish Government’s focus

in relation to food and drink and, in particular,

its work with the industry, addresses quality,

health and wellbeing, and environmental

sustainability, recognising the need for access

and affordability at the same time.

According to Lochhead, education also has a

big role to play. In recent weeks, a £1m fund

has been launched to provide more food

education for pupils. Supporting the aims of

the Curriculum for Excellence, the Food for

Thought Education Fund is designed to help

pupils learn about all aspects of food, with

teachers developing projects inspired by the

events happening in 2014 to create a legacy

for young people for the future.

Food education is a key strand of the national

food and drink policy and funding of up to

£5000 will be available to teachers to support

at least 200 projects during 2013-15, each of

which will be topped up with a direct financial

or in-kind contribution from the private sector.

Scottish Business in the Community will work

with successful projects to help them find

private-sector support.

It’s a bold ambition but one Lochhead is

passionate about.

“Making sure that Scottish pupils know

where their food comes from, how it affects

their health and the environment as well as

our nation’s economy is vital,” he says. “It’s

particularly relevant now as we’re seeing

people becoming increasingly interested in the

provenance of their food. I want every child in

Scotland to receive food education.”

Meanwhile, Lochhead is working on “a stream

of activity” to take the national food and

drink policy to the next level. “We are a food

nation,” he says. “It’s about all of the things

I’ve discussed – health, innovation, education

– but we need to do more to help people

learn about provenance when they’re cooking

for their families at home and also in the

hospitality sector.”

While Lochhead gives credit to the hospitality

sector for the “massive inroads” it has made in

promoting Scottish food and drink, he remains

“immensely frustrated and disappointed” that

more isn’t being done to showcase Scotland’s

larder. “I want it to be second nature to

operators,” he says. “That would be a huge

breakthrough for us. Yes, we’ve started but

there’s so much more scope for using our

hospitality outlets to promote food and drink.”

Collaboration and engagement are key, he

suggests, to breaking down barriers. “I bring

people round the table and they haven’t met

each other before,” he explains. “One of the

great benefits of Scotland Food & Drink has

been the marked increase in collaboration in a

sector that is quite fragmented because there

are lots of different trade associations and

promotional bodies pursuing their own agenda

for very legitimate reasons.

“But we need to work together and speak

with one voice as an industry – especially on

the international stage. Every business I speak

to emphasises the strength of the Scottish

brand. Our brand is a very precious thing that

we have to protect but it can deliver new

business so we must nurture it.”

In some export markets, Lochhead points out,

demand is outstripping supply. “The good

news, though, is that it’s not just the Baxters

and Walkers and established exporters that

are flying the flag,” he says. “There are lots

of niche markets well suited to many Scottish

products and it’s not just whisky, salmon, and

Scotch Beef that are in demand – we have

a whole hamper full of innovative, exciting

products that can find a foothold in overseas

markets with the right help and advice.

“Whisky has set the standard – 50 bottles are

exported every second – so there is a huge

opportunity and we can learn from the whisky

industry,” he goes on. “There are frustrations

in that there are overseas distributors telling us

there’s demand for our products in niche, high-

end markets then we hear from US retailers

who are struggling to source certain Scottish

products. So we need to make the road to

these export markets easier to travel.”

Lochhead suggests mentoring as part of the

solution. “I meet many small producers making

top-quality products where I can see massive

potential for growth both at home and

overseas,” Lochhead continues. “Baxters and

Walkers were both small once and something

I have been thinking about recently is how we

can encourage more mentoring whereby those

who have conquered export markets are able

to pass on their experience and knowledge to

ambitious, smaller producers.”

He cites industry stalwart Jim Walker of

Walkers Shortbread as someone who is

“always more than happy” to talk to people

and share information. “People like Jim are

absolute stars,” states Lochhead. “These

captains of industry are ideally placed to point

out the pitfalls and share best practice with

those starting out.”

All the same, some are making a sterling job

of seeking out new markets on their own. “I

spoke about craft brewers earlier and know

of some in that niche area of production who

have captured certain Continental markets, for

example – we need to see more of this.”

The Cabinet Secretary for Rural Affairs and the

Environment shuffles his papers in a way that

only politicians do, signalling his next meeting

is imminent. His diary is understandably

bulging with ministerial, constituency and

industry commitments, so some questions

must be left for another day. But if he answers

them with the same frankness and honesty

that he has displayed today, that’s got to be

encouraging for the food and drink producers

he spent time with in The Assembly Rooms –

and the wider industry. n

We need to do more to help people learn about provenance when they’re cooking for their families at home and also in the hospitality sector



SUMMER 13 ENTREPRENEUR

Pâté is by no means a new product – we’ve

been enjoying it for centuries. But this

stalwart of seventies dinner parties, pub grub

and Channel 4’s ‘Come Dine With Me’ has

enduring appeal, and is undergoing a quiet

revolution on a business park in Linlithgow.

It’s all down to Findlater’s Fine Foods, a food

producer that started life as a restaurant

and delicatessen in the West Lothian market

town, also famous as the birthplace of Mary

Queen of Scots. Owner Martin Henderson, 43,

bounds into the meeting room, apologising

for appearing harassed. However, he does

have a very good reason: he’s in the process

of building a new logistics facility to provide

additional storage space and create a more

effective distribution hub.

“Life’s pretty hectic at the moment,” he says.

“We’ve been weak in this area and we’re using

a third party. They’ve been doing a great job

for us but we want to have more control. The

reality is that it’s also more expensive to do

things that way and we’ve reached a stage in

our development whereby we don’t want to

rely on other people’s systems.”

The new warehouse has been a year in the

planning and has been partly funded – 40%

– with a grant from the Scottish Government.

“The grant has covered our capital costs,”

explains Henderson. “That gave us leverage

to negotiate with the bank and we’re

delighted with the support we’ve received.

We have a good asset base – we own our

existing premises – and we know we have

a fantastic product.”

Others clearly agree. Santander has provided

a £360,000 finance facility to support the

company’s growth. “They’ve been hugely

supportive,” says Henderson. “I think the key

thing is that they understand us and what

we’re trying to do with the business. Our

turnover has grown by 40% for each of the

past three years so we were speaking to them

from a very strong position. We’ve enjoyed

working with Santander.”

Findlater’s, meanwhile, has won numerous

Great Taste Awards – largely considered to be

the ‘Oscars’ of fine food – while the brand

is gaining listings in supermarkets and, more

recently, the lucrative foodservice sector. “It’s

an incredibly exciting time for our business just

now,” says Henderson, who started making his

trademark Findlater’s chicken liver pâté with

brandy and port in his restaurant and deli back

in 2004.

The business flourished and grew to the extent

that Henderson and his wife, Sara, had to

build a bigger kitchen to cope with demand.

“People would order our pâté in the restaurant

then buy it to take home,” he explains. “Word

spread and we had farm shops and other

outlets wanting to stock it.

“We also realised that running a restaurant

was an all-consuming existence,” Henderson

continues. “With a young family, that’s really

hard so we took stock and asked ourselves

where we would be in 10 years’ time.

“We had capacity for 38 covers and no

options for growth unless we opened another

restaurant which would have meant us

spreading ourselves even thinner, so when I

sat down to count the numbers I could see

that concentrating on the pâté was much

more scaleable.”

Henderson sold the restaurant and deli

business in 2007. Today, the luxury product

range extends to much more than Findlater’s

flagship produce. Sumptuous flavour

combinations such as venison with cranberry

and cherry poached in cherry brandy, smoked

mackerel with fresh coriander leaf and lemon,

and avocado and cashew nut with mango

and chilli have bolstered Findlater’s 20-plus

portfolio, along with a range of dips using

ingredients including wilted spinach and

ricotta; roasted red pepper; and coconut satay.

It also includes coleslaw made with free-range

egg mayonnaise. In addition, the pâtés and

the coleslaw are naturally free of gluten and

suitable for Coeliacs.

All products are handmade by chefs in small

batches to the company’s own recipes with

a “tasting committee” checking and tasting

each batch to ensure quality and consistency.

“We look at the colour, texture and flavour,”

explains Henderson. “You do get variants >>

SPREADING INTO NEW MARKETSWhat started as a restaurant and delicatessen in a West Lothian market town is now set for global success thanks to its mastery of the pâté market, as Karen Peattie discovers

We realised that running a restaurant was all consuming so we took stock and asked oursleves where we would be in 10 years


with a handmade product so it’s usually me,

the general manager, production manager,

customer service manager and some other

members of the team officiating. And yes, we

do sometimes have to reject a batch.”

Made entirely from natural ingredients

which are predominantly sourced from local

producers, Findlater’s products can be found

UK-wide in stockists including Waitrose,

independent delis, farm shops and online

retailer, Ocado. The firm is also developing

its foodservice arm, providing the same

premium pâtés and dips in different pack sizes

and formats. Findlater’s also supplies frozen

products for some of its catering customers.

“At the moment our foodservice arm is doing

four product lines and some speciality lines at

certain times of the year such as Christmas,”

explains Henderson. “For foodservice, we have

the same ethos in production values with our

chefs cooking the pâtés in pots on the stove.

Being small is an advantage because we can be

flexible and our product range is such that it

gives us the depth to deal with our customers

52 weeks a year.

“While I would like to deal more with the

big supermarkets in the future, I see much

of our growth coming from this division of

the business. I’d rather grow by seeking new

markets in foodservice and also export.”

Findlater’s uses Town & Country Fine

Foods in Slough and the local distributor,

Campbells Prime Meats as its route to market

in foodservice. It also uses a distributor in

Northern Ireland. “We’re doing well,” says

Henderson. “We have products going into the

Hilton group and hotels like the Sheraton. Our

distributors are very proactive and experts in

their fields.”

From the export perspective, Findlater’s is

making inroads in Oman and the United Arab

Emirates, although Henderson is frustrated

by the length of time it takes to get things

moving in these markets. “You have to be

patient,” he admits. “It’s annoying because

you want to get stuck in and you could grow

old waiting for it to happen. It will happen but

it’s just taking time. There’s considerable scope

for us in overseas markets.”

Henderson’s route to fine food producer

is certainly colourful. He left Strathclyde

University half-way through a degree in

economics and marketing because he wasn’t

enjoying it, then found a job at the former

Scottish Amicable. “I got a good grounding at

university and became immersed in commerce

and business,” he points out. “I was also in a

band for while.

“But both Sara and me always loved food and

that’s what led us to open the restaurant and

deli and what, I think, were the hardest three

years of our lives. It seems such a long time

ago now but I always knew we were onto a

winner with our pâté – people wouldn’t have

travelled miles to buy it otherwise – so we

followed our instincts.”

New product development is ongoing

with Henderson and his chefs constantly

experimenting with new flavour combinations.

“I’ll be driving somewhere in the car and

think of something that might work, or I’ll be

in a restaurant and wonder if a certain dish’s

flavours could be transferred to a pâté. Some

work and some don’t – it’s pretty much trial

and error – and we know from experience that

certain things work in pâté, cream cheese, for

example. If you can cook it and it doesn’t split

you’re in with a shout.”

Henderson likes to try unlikely combinations,

flavours that really shouldn’t go together.

“Take our duck liver pâté,” he says. “We

blend it with Cointreau and poached apricots

which is pretty unusual but it gives customers

a really unexpected flavour kick and that

encourages them to try others in the range. I

think if you are innovative and are providing

a fresh alternative to what’s out there in the

marketplace you have a chance.

“We also have confidence in our brand and

know that we’re adding value to our company

all the time – the people you deal with pick

up on that vibe. This year we could very well

double in size although our projections are to

do that by the end of March 2014. It’s all really

positive for Findlater’s.”

As the business grows, Henderson continues

to spend time seeking out potential new

customers at trade shows such as Speciality &

Fine Food Fair which takes places at London’s

Olympia every autumn. These shows, he

suggests, are a “hotbed of activity” and the

place to be make good contacts and network.

Findlater’s also supplied pâté for the Athletes’

Village at the Olympics last summer.

He also praises the support for the wider

food and drink industry from the Scottish

Government, and also Scottish Enterprise (SE).

“We’re SE account-managed and they’ve

been absolutely first-class,” says Henderson.

“Scottish Development International (SDI) are

also slick and excel at putting you in touch

with the right people through their

intelligence and connections in key markets –

they have some fantastic individuals batting for

their team.”

For Martin Henderson, his eye is always on

what is coming next – exciting, new products

and new routes to market. “The food and

drink industry in Scotland is amazing,” he says.

“The levels of innovation we’re seeing across

the board is really quite remarkable and I’m

extremely proud to be part of an industry that

is so forward-thinking and dynamic.” n

ENTREPRENEUR SUMMER 13

We have products going into the Hilton group and hotels like the Sheraton. Our distributors are very proactive

SUMMER 13 XXXXXXXX



THE HONEYPOT

EFFECT Tourist destinations with food and drink at their heart are on the rise in Scotland,

as Karen Peattie discovers on a farm near Edinburgh

With VisitScotland estimating that visitors

spend £700m per annum on food and drink in

around 20,000 tourism outlets across Scotland,

it’s no surprise that enterprising individuals like

John Sinclair are responding to the growing

consumer appetite for tourist “destinations”

that have food and drink at their heart.

While a weekend ritual for a growing band of

people from all walks of life is a visit to their

local farmers’ market, outlets such as Craigie’s

Farm and Café at South Queensferry, near

Edinburgh are also fast becoming the place

to go for an afternoon out with the family,

somewhere to grab a spot of lunch or to buy

local produce.

Sinclair established the business in its present

form with his wife, Kirsteen, at West Craigie,

the family farm, in 2007. “We’d had a farm

shop since 1988 but could see there was an

upsurge in consumer interest in local produce

and wanted to respond early, so we added

a café and new building,” he explains. “At

the same time, we were looking at other

farm-based businesses that had diversified into

tourism and reckoned our location was well-

suited to attracting people and families looking

for a day out.”

While Sinclair admits that business has been

“a little flat” in the last year, he says: “Since

2007, we’ve experienced rapid annual

growth so this year we’ve been focusing on

getting the right margins on products and

our management structure. So while sales are

down our margins are much better and that

puts us in a strong position going forward. To

put it in perspective we have around 10,000

transactions per month with 2.4 people

accounting for each transaction.”

The recent spell of sunny weather has certainly

drawn more people to Craigie’s although

there are few days when the tables in the café

aren’t filled at lunchtime, Sinclair points out.

Today is one of those good days. At 11am,

visitors are already having to use the overspill

car park and there’s a queue at the butchery

counter, a concession run by the award-

winning Fife-based Puddledub, itself a regular

on the farmers’ market circuit. Tomatoes from

the Clyde Valley make for a colourful display

inside, people are buying ice-cream and, at

the entrance, fresh produce looks like it should

– dirty carrots and misshapen cucumbers that

probably wouldn’t see the light of day in

a supermarket.

It’s a little early for the pick-your-own fruit

season and the bad weather earlier in the year

has put it back by three to four weeks. “Things

tend to balance out,” says Sinclair. “Enquiries

for PYO are coming in thick and fast, and like

other independent butchers we’ve had a boost

in the number of customers to the shop in the

wake of the horsemeat scandal so that’s been

a positive thing for us. We’re 15% above >>

where we would expect to be.

We could see there was an upsurge in consumer interest in local produce and wanted to respond early

OVERVIEW SUMMER 13


SUMMER 13 OVERVIEW


OVERVIEW SUMMER 13

“I think people take comfort from a shop like

this,” Sinclair suggests. “You can see and feel

the produce; you can talk to the butchers and

other staff. You can taste the quality and that is

very important to people but so is provenance –

for us, it’s all about provenance.

“It’s a nice place to come because the whole

family can get involved. People want to

work here, too. We’ve advertised recently for

seasonal staff and received 30 applications

within 24 hours. We have a core staff of 30

with a good mix of ages and a low turnover

– there’s a vibrancy and enthusiasm that

customers and visitors pick up on.”

While Sinclair does as much as he can to

support local producers, it’s not always possible.

“Someone can have a great product but we

need to know that they can supply us with

what we need, and consistency of supply is

crucial,” he explains. “We are very good at

helping producers and offering them advice

on how to go about getting barcodes and that

type of thing.

“Proximity to West Craigie is important

although we do stock some products from

south of the Border and in some categories

there are just so many products now –

rapeseed oil is a good example – that we can’t

possibly take them all. There’s a lot more to

it that people think but we’ll happily give our

time to steer producers in the right direction.

We’re also a producer – we supply our own

jams, marmalades and chutneys to around

25 independent outlets – so we’re in an ideal

position to help.”

As Craigie’s and other similar businesses the

length and breadth of Scotland gear up for

the busy summer season, the competition also

starts. “We have Hopetoun Farm Shop not far

away from us but we have a different offer and

talk to each other so we can help to promote

local food in the area rather than compete,”

explains Sinclair. “We have our nature detective

trail which is a great point of difference, our

tractor which the kids just can’t get enough of,

woodland walks and PYO.

“We also have a new outdoor frisbee fun

area this year with information boards about

strawberries and so on, plus our animal area

which we are in the process of developing.

You have to keep pushing the boundaries

and trying new ideas to keep regular visitors

interested and attract new ones. We’re

growing cherries for the first time this

year, too.”

Piglets have been a huge attraction in recent

weeks although the stark reality is that they

are part of the food chain. “That’s one of the

educational aspects of what we do here,”

Sinclair points out.

“Children need to learn that the cute piglets

and lambs have a purpose and it’s important

to teach them early.”

And, like the rest of the Scottish food and drink

industry, the food tourism operators plan to

make the most of the big events taking place

in Scotland in 2014. “It’s going to be a massive

year for businesses like ours,” says Sinclair.

“Everyone’s talking about it but we need to

make sure we grab the opportunity and really

put Scotland on the world stage by showing

visitors to Scotland what we’re capable of.” n

Scottish Food & Drink Fortnight is a celebration of the best that Scotland’s

larder has to offer. Hundreds of events will be taking place all over the

country, from foraging and farmers’ markets, cooking demonstrations

and butchery classes to in-store promotions and themed restaurant

evenings. It takes place from September 7-22.

Find out more at: www.scottishfoodanddrinkfortnight.co.uk

Foodie fortnight

Children need to learn that cute little piglets and lambs have a purpose and it’s important to teach them early



If Donnie Maclean left the Scotland Food &

Drink Excellence Awards disappointed a few

weeks ago, he certainly didn’t show it. In

fact, he was among the first to congratulate

the winner of the two categories in which

his fast-growing company Eat Balanced,

manufacturer of nutritionally-balanced pizzas,

was nominated.

This young entrepreneur doesn’t have time to

dwell on disappointments or setbacks. He’s

a man on a mission to grow his Glasgow-

based business by extending distribution

and expanding his product range. “Winning

any award will always help you raise your

profile and let more people know about your

product,” Maclean points out. “But so does

being shortlisted and you also have to consider

the networking opportunity presented by the

event itself.”

It is typical of the 34-year-old to think like

that. Maclean’s story is a well-documented

one. Straight-talking and articulate, he has a

knack for securing column inches that would

make even Richard Branson envious. This

one-man PR whirlwind, however, fully deserves

to be given a platform to talk about what he

is doing, why he’s doing it and what inspires

him. You may also have seen him taking a

starring role in The Entrepreneurs, a BBC2

documentary about Scotland’s acclaimed start-

up incubator, Entrepreneurial Spark.

Maclean’s nutritionally-balanced pizzas,

developed in collaboration with internationally

renowned nutrition academic Professor Mike

Lean, who heads up the Human Nutrition

department at the University of Glasgow,

aim to make it easier to achieve a balanced

diet. “We can preach at people and tell them

what they should and shouldn’t be eating and

drinking,” says Maclean. “But does anyone

really have the right to dictate to people how

they live their lives?

“The reality is that people will do what they

want regardless. That includes eating pizza

– it’s universally loved and widely available in

supermarkets and restaurants. So I came at >>

INTERVIEW SUMMER 13

We’ve thrown down the gauntlet to the food industry and shown that, with our first range, it is possible to make tasty products that tick all the boxes

STRIKING A FINE BALANCE

How did an economics and marketing graduate end up making nuritionally-balanced pizzas? Healthy eating struck a chord with Donnie

Maclean and supermarket success followed, writes Karen Peattie

SUMMER 13 INTERVIEW



it slightly differently. Why not give people

this product they love and want to eat,

but in a nutritionally-balanced and

healthier format, and make it convenient?

It’s not rocket science.”

Perhaps not, but it’s certainly hard work with

Maclean and his business partner, Katie Sillars,

routinely working 12 to 14-hour days. The

day before he met with BQ, in fact, he’d put

in 19 hours.

“I don’t have too many of those,” he says,

with a hint of relief in his voice, “although long

hours go with the territory with any start-up.

It’s your business, your passion – you do what

you have to do to make it work.”

So how did the graduate in economics and

marketing from Strathclyde Business School

end up making pizzas? “It came by evolution

rather than a light bulb moment,” explains

Maclean. “I’m a sports enthusiast and used to

compete in triathlons and marathons so I was

always looking at my own diet and enjoyed

using analytical skills to create diet plans.

“It was something that interested me and

around the same time I was looking at

business opportunities.”

Maclean initially thought about setting up a

business along those lines – creating diet plans

for people using the software he’d created.

“I was advised against that and a few other

ideas were also dismissed as non-starters,”

he laughs. “I’ve developed a thick skin over

the years so don’t take things too personally.

Meeting Mike Lean, however, was the turning

point. We hit it off and sat down together to

play with ideas. Healthy pizzas struck a chord

with him and it took off from there.”

With three varieties currently in the Eat

Balanced range – Cheese & Tomato, Ham &

Pineapple, and Spicy Chicken – consumers

can choose a pizza in the knowledge that it

contains the correct proportion of calories,

proteins, carbohydrates, fats, salts, sugar, fibre,

vitamins and minerals required for a balanced

meal. An Eat Balanced pizza provides about

30% of the guideline daily amounts for each

of the main nutrients that people need to

maintain a balanced, nutritious diet. Half of

the salt has been replaced by seaweed.

But is there any compromise on taste? Not

according to the Scotland rugby players who

were eating them in the build-up to their Six

Nations campaign earlier this year. Richard

Chessor, lead nutritionist at Scottish Rugby,

said at the time: “The Eat Balanced pizza is not

only a great idea, it’s a great product too and

one which can easily be integrated into the

players’ nutrition plans.

“Typically a pizza is seen as a guilty pleasure

but the Eat Balanced pizza can be used as part

INTERVIEW SUMMER 13


of a fuelling or recovery strategy without the

player being concerned about an excessive

sugar or fat intake. They taste great, too, so it’s

a win-win.”

Launched last year although the company

itself was set up in 2010, the Eat Balanced

pizzas use only natural ingredients and are

made using traditional Italian methods by a

long-established Scottish pizza manufacturer.

“They’re as authentic as they can possibly

be,” says Maclean. “Taste was obviously a

key consideration for us because so many

healthier-for-you products don’t actually taste

very good and we were determined that ours

wouldn’t fall into that category.

“Our manufacturing partner has been making

pizzas in Scotland since the 1960s and has that

authentic Italian know-how.

“We don’t use preservatives or stabilisers and

our dough is slow-fermented. It’s very much a

handmade product.”

Recently listed by online retailer Ocado, Eat

Balanced is also available in Sainsbury’s in

Scotland. “It’s a challenge getting listings in

the supermarkets, there’s no doubt about it,”

says Maclean.

“They can be very demanding and you have

to work hard at building up relationships.

“We’ve had a lot of support from Scotland

Food & Drink in this and other aspects of the

business such as the networking opportunities

I mentioned earlier but you have to be

proactive,” he suggests. “You can’t sit back

and expect others to do the work for you. If

you don’t ask, you don’t get and I’m pretty

good at making a pest of myself.”

Eat Balanced operates under a lean business

structure with Maclean and Sillars dealing with

buyers and sourcing ingredients. The pair also

control packaging, design and graphics and,

of course, marketing and PR.

“We’re very hands-on,” says Maclean. “I still

want to have that high level of control over

the business although I accept that will have to

change as we get bigger.”

Despite the publicity generated by the arrival

of Eat Balanced, Maclean is “not that fussed

about being in the limelight”. He says: “It’s

about the brand and we’ve thrown down the

gauntlet to the food industry and shown that,

with our first range, it is possible to make tasty

products that tick all the boxes for the pressure

they are under.

“I know there are people who remain sceptical

about the concept of a ‘healthy’ pizza and I

can understand that but I’m not telling people

they can now eat pizza all day – I’m giving

them the option whereby when they do fancy

a pizza, they can enjoy one that’s nutritionally

balanced and much healthier.”

Despite his detractors, there are others who

have embraced the concept with gusto. In

2012, Eat Balanced’s pizzas won the Great

New Idea award at Food & Drink Expo, the

UK’s largest food and drink trade event.

The firm has also won a string of business

accolades, including a Local Business

Accelerators Award 2013. If selected for the

national shortlist, Maclean and Sillars could

win the £10,000 cash prize, UK-wide publicity,

and the chance to be mentored by Deborah

Meaden, star of Dragons’ Den.

Maclean’s entrepreneurial spirit is very much

in evidence, his nurturing by Entrepreneurial

Spark clearly leaving its legacy. “It’s a fantastic

organisation,” he enthuses. “It’s such a buzz

to be around people with similar goals and

aspirations and very much a privilege because

demand for places is high and the expectations

to perform and are even higher.”

An intensive five-month accelerator

programme for start-up and early-stage

businesses, the programme brings together

like-minded entrepreneurs in a collaborative,

hot-house environment where they can share

and test ideas in “hatcheries” located in

Glasgow, Edinburgh and the west coast. Eat

Balanced has now moved into new premises in

Glasgow, having completed the programme.

“We really benefited from the energy around

the place,” explains Maclean. “You’re under

the spotlight because they go through your

business plan with a pressure hose and it’s

arduous – you have to commit to evening and

weekend activities as well so it’s not for the

faint-hearted.”

Last year, Eat Balanced secured a new finance

agreement with Santander Business Banking

which will help with the working capital and

debt facilities to manage initial major orders

via Scotland-based supermarkets but also

providing room for the company to develop

subsequent products and further support the

business’s growth.

“In the current environment, it’s refreshing

that my bank has really taken an interest in

what we are doing, and going that extra mile

to help where they can,” says Maclean.

“It’s brilliant that they have been able to

back up their faith in Eat Balanced by

providing me with a facility as a safety net,

especially at a crucial time in the development

of the business.”

His bankers are no doubt impressed with his

financial tenacity – Maclean’s parents have

taken an equity stake in the business and

last year he secured a loan from the West of

Scotland Loan Fund. Scottish Enterprise has

also helped with finance. In the very early days,

he remortgaged his flat, sold his car and even

his bike to get the business off the ground.

And he’s not hanging around. Maclean is

already exploring the development of a range

of ready meals and sees “massive potential”

to grow the Eat Balanced brand across the UK.

He’s also looking at introducing new pizzas to

the existing range and is currently talking to

the award-winning artisan producer of wild

venison salamis and smoked venison, Great

Glen Game, based near Fort William.

Maclean has certainly come a long way in a

relatively short space of time.

One of a new breed of Scottish food and drink

entrepreneurs determined to make his stamp

on the industry, Donnie Maclean’s name is one

to watch with interest. n

SUMMER 13 INTERVIEW

Long hours go with the territory with any start-up. It’s your business, your passion – you do what you have to do to make it work

XXXXXXXX SUMMER 13

46SPECIAL REPORT | SUMMER 13 FOOD & DRINK IN SCOTLAND46SPECIAL REPORT | SUMMER 13 FOOD & DRINK IN SCOTLAND

SUMMER 13 XXXXXXXX


SUMMER 13 INTERVIEW

LEAP OF FAITH BEARS FRUIT

It is mid-afternoon on an early June day – a

gloriously hot one in the Clyde Valley with

conditions that are absolutely perfect for

growing tomatoes. But for David Craig and

Scott Robertson there is no time to sit back

and enjoy the sunshine. The business partners

have been up and about since 3.30am, taking

produce to Glasgow’s wholesale fruit market –

and the day is far from done.

For the virgin tomato growers, this is a typical

day although they admit to looking forward

to a rare night out later on that evening. “It’ll

be the first time we’ve been out anywhere

for almost a month,” says Craig, who was

marketing manager at upmarket US grocer

Whole Foods Market in Glasgow before

swapping the 9-5 stability for life as a

food producer.

Both Craig and Robertson, previously a civilian

police officer, look equally hot and bothered

as they check their vines in the stifling heat

although they wouldn’t have it any other

way. Home for the pair is currently a vintage

Debonair Super mobile home, right outside the

greenhouses near Lanark where their ambition

is to revive a once-mighty agricultural sector

and put food-producing in this lush and green

part of Lanarkshire firmly back on the menu.

Visitors to farmers’ markets in Glasgow

and Edinburgh have been snapping up the

brightly-coloured Clyde Valley Tomatoes packs

– strawberries and cucumbers are also grown

on-site. Dobbies Garden Centres all >>

A lifechanging career shift for David Craig and Scott Robertson led them on a path down the Cyde Valley to their own thriving virgin

tomato growing business, as Karen Peattie reports



over Scotland are selling them while there has

been a successful tie-up with Scotty Brand,

a wholly-owned subsidiary of Albert Bartlett,

another Lanarkshire-based producer and the

UK’s leading grower and packer of potatoes, to

sell the brand in Dobbies south of the Border.

Ducking as a couple of house martins fly

overhead – they’re permanent residents in the

boiler house during the summer months and a

protected species so can’t be removed – Craig

and Robertson talk candidly about the life-

changing decision that brought them to the

Clyde Valley.

“We both always wanted to run our business

and our ideas changed monthly,” recalls Craig.

“As we’d both worked in retail we thought

about a deli but decided that would be too

limited. Working for Whole Foods had helped

fuel my passion for food and Scott had a

sideline producing videos for some of the

producers supplying the company – what they

were doing really appealed to us.”

A chance conversation alerted Craig to a

potential opportunity at long-established

family tomato business, J&M Craig, and it all

snowballed from there. “I went along to have

a chat with the owners, Jim and Liz Craig, who

had partially retired,” he says. “We clicked

and had many, many more meetings around

their kitchen table over the next few months

and even more meetings with banks and

funding bodies.”

The pair’s dream edged closer to reality when

they secured a funding package worth around

£120,000 and jointly funded by the our bank,

South Lanarkshire Council and the specialist

grower, Scotherbs, based on the outskirts of

Dundee. “Scotherbs have given us an interest-

free loan to be paid back over three years,”

Craig explains. “They don’t want an equity

stake in the business – they just want to see us

succeed. We’re retailing their herbs at farmers’

markets, after all and what goes better

together than tomatoes and basil?”

With funding in place and an option to buy

the business and its 32-acre site in 2015, Craig

and Robertson found themselves in a position

to plant out their first 10,000 seedlings in

February. With Jim Craig – no relation – staying

on to help and mentor them, they are “pretty

much” replicating his business model in the

first year. “It’s obviously a huge learning curve

for us and we wouldn’t have managed without

Jim’s 40-plus years’ experience,” admits Craig.

“Every day we learn something new and pick

up hints and tips that will hold us in good

stead as we move forward. Jim’s also our

harshest critic and that’s been good for us.”

With 14 varieties of tomatoes growing over

1.5 acres, taking care of them and nurturing

them is a never-ending task. The bees work

hard, too – Clyde Valley Tomatoes uses bees to

provide 100% pollination with two new hives

brought in every fortnight at a cost of 40p per

bee. “By using bees we optimise our yield,”

says Craig. “We also introduce beneficial bugs

to the greenhouse to kill the nasty ones.”

As with any business start-up it hasn’t all been

plain sailing for the young tomato growers.

Poor spring weather delayed the first harvest

by about three weeks and a couple of varieties

haven’t performed as well as expected. Ailsa

Craig, a much-loved Scottish heritage variety

40 years ago, has been disappointing.

Craig explains: “Back in the day this variety

would have been grown in a wooden

greenhouse so that may be one reason why it’s

not performing as well as we hoped. You also

take a risk with heritage varieties because they

can introduce disease to the rest of the crop.”

But there will be no waste as it is hoped the

lesser-performing varieties will be used for

value-added products such as chutney and

ketchup. “We’re talking to a few processing

partners and have interest from a national

distributor,” Craig confirms. “We see a lot of

scope for growing the Clyde Valley brand in

the future. With our cucumbers, for example,

I see potential in developing a range along

the lines of Rick’s Picks, the American

pickled vegetables brand I came across at

Whole Foods.”

Meanwhile, customers are fast discovering

the wonderful flavours, aromas, shapes and

sizes of varieties such as Claree red cherry,

Ardilles medium plum, Lajaune yellow cherry,

tiger stripe, Sunchicola black cherry, classic

red varieties Encore and Calvano, and the

pumpkin-shaped Coeur de Boeuf that works

well as a tomato carpaccio.

“We took Jim’s advice to grow quite a bit of

classic Scotch, the thinking being that we

would limit our risk should we fail to attract

interest in other varieties,” explains Craig.

“However, the demand for specialist varieties

has been exceptional, and we’re just not

interested in competing at the commodity end

of the market. We’re already making plans for

next year’s crop.”

Promoting and marketing the Clyde Valley

Tomatoes brand has been crucial although

Craig would appear to be a one-man PR

machine, his previous marketing experience

helping to secure widespread coverage in both

national and local press, and even on BBC’s

The One Show.

“It’s great to get that type of exposure and

when we’re at farmers’ markets people

recognise us,” says Craig. “I always do

Edinburgh and Scott does Glasgow, so regular

visitors get to know us and we get to know

them. We also have an eye-catching and really

strong brand, designed by Graven Images in

Glasgow – it makes us stand out.

“However, we’ve been getting people turning

up looking to buy tomatoes and they don’t

understand why we’re unable to supply them.

We had an order ready for Dobbies and

someone said, ‘Why can’t we have those?’ and

I had to explain that they were for an existing

customer. Without meaning to sound big-

headed we have, to an extent, been a victim of

our success. Around the time of The One Show

we were getting eight new enquiries a day.

“But unless your product is right you can

spend as much as you like on PR and it still

won’t sell,” he continues. “There’s also the

proven health benefits of tomatoes which

gives us another selling point. You need a

point of difference and a good story behind

the product.” Clyde Valley Tomatoes certainly

has that in abundance.

Next year, another half-acre will be >>

INTERVIEW SUMMER 13

Every day we pick up hints and tips that will hold us in good stead as we move forward



available for growing which will enable

production to increase by 50%. This will

mean taking on more people during the peak

season. Currently, there are three full-time

staff, plus Craig and Robertson and, of

course, Jim Craig although his involvement

will scale back.

For the budding entrepreneurs, it has been

hugely satisfying to see the regeneration of

the tomato industry in this part of Scotland.

At one point, the Clyde Valley was the source

of all tomatoes for Scotland and the north of

England. “We need to grow more produce

in Scotland,” Craig believes. “Our weather

means it’s difficult but as a country we need to

be more self-sufficient and sustainable.”

Meanwhile, Craig and Robertson are working

with the Resource Efficient Scotland (formerly

the Carbon Trust) on a renewable energies

product which will see the introduction of a

woodchip boiler and reduce energy costs by

over £70,000 – a welcome development after

this year’s additional weather-related costs.

“March was the coldest March for 50 years

and we had to spend an extra £25,000 on

fuel that we hadn’t budgeted for, and that

hurt,” says Craig. “Reducing our costs so

significantly could really open up mass-market

opportunities for us.”

That unexpected setback aside, the business is

on target to turn over £300,000 in its first year

and will continue to build relationships with

customers such as Dobbies, Tesco – via Scotty

Brand – and Scotmid. Farmers’ markets and

farm shops will also be important for gaining

further exposure for the brand although Craig

is keen to build the business with bigger

retailers. “That’s where we see most of our

growth and while we would never turn our

backs on farmers’ markets they are resource

heavy and we need to be aiming for mass-

market sales,” he says.

“Our aim is to convince people they don’t have

to buy the cheaper Dutch imports when they

can get a fresher, more flavoursome product

that is grown right here at home and hand-

picked,” Craig goes on.

For Craig and Robertson, Clyde Valley

Tomatoes really is a labour of love. “It’s a

complete lifestyle change and harder than we

ever imagined it would be,” Craig concedes.

“In fact, living in the caravan is the least

stressful part of it! There have been highs

and lows but we’re at the start of an amazing

journey – this is just the beginning for Clyde

Valley Tomatoes.” n

INTERVIEW SUMMER 13

Our aim is to convince people they don’t have to buy cheaper Dutch imports

www.bq-magazine.co.uk

Food and drink is now Scotland’s fastest-growing export sector so it’s crucial that we tap into the emerging marketsJAMES WITHERS,SCOTLAND FOOD & DRINK

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BQ2 Scotland summer 13 Food and Drink