winter 2012

boulder county

magazine

bloomingmarvelous!5 Plants to Brighten

Your Winter

Are You a “Homie?”Take Our Quiz to Find Out!

2 home&garden

editor’s note

Dear Reader:

Welcome to the VERY FIRST virtual edition of

Boulder County Home & Garden Magazine! We’re

excited about this special winter issue, and you will

be too, once you discover all the fun and unique fea-

tures a virtual edition can offer over our print edition.

Take the table of contents on page 4, for exam-

ple. Just click on any story listed there and the

story will immediately appear—no flipping through

pages, although we strongly encourage you to do

so! An icon at the beginning and end of all the

stories takes you back to the table of contents with

just a simple click.

In each story, you’ll notice icons that link to vari-

ous things. Some of these take you directly to videos

related to a particular story’s subject material. In the

Mid-Century Modern story, for instance, the icons

on page 17 take you to videos on a Mid-Century

Modern home and to a video on Frank Lloyd Wright,

the architect who pioneered that famous style.

Other icons peppered throughout each story take

you to how-to videos and additional photos.

Plus, all websites listed in stories—and in the

advertisements—are live links. Just click on them

and you’ll instantly be transported to websites that

offer tips or products related to the story’s subject

matter, and to information on services and prod-

ucts offered by our great advertisers.

Another cool thing a virtual edition can do that

a print issue cannot affects the design of the maga-

zine. A virtual edition is unlimited in the number

and size of photos we can offer, as well as the

stories’ type size. So you’ll find much larger photos

in the virtual edition, as well as larger type to make

for easier reading (something my aging eyes VERY

much appreciate!).

And you can always share a single story or the

entire magazine with a friend, relative, coworker

or interested party just by clicking on the envelope

icon that appears in the bottom left corner of the

magazine reader.

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Fritz likes to wear his coat in cold weather. Click here to learn how to protect your pet in winter.

The one thing that’s still the same between our

virtual and print editions is the great content this

magazine contains. In this issue, you’ll find articles on

architecture, a how-to on constructing a living herb

wall, a guide to de-icers, tips to keep your dog safe in

winter, and a fun quiz to determine if you’re a “homie.”

You’ll also learn what to expect if you sign up

for an energy audit—something EVERY household

should do. Nonetheless, you’ll get inexpensive tips

to save energy and reduce your carbon footprint just

by reading the article on page 24.

We hope you enjoy this virtual issue. It’s our

first experiment with virtual only, so please take a

moment to drop me a note at carol@brockpub.com

to let me know what you like and don’t like. If you

have any ideas for improvement, please let me know

those, too, as well as any stories you’d like to see in

future virtual or print editions.

Thank you for all your support over the nine years

we’ve published this magazine. And thanks to our

wonderful advertisers who make it possible for us

to bring you this high-quality resource.

See you in spring with our fabulous print issue,

chock-full of everything you’ll need to get your gar-

den growing and your home in tip-top shape!

Sincerely,

Carol Brock

4 home&garden

8 Mid-Century Makes a Modern Comeback

The architectural style made famous by

Frank Lloyd Wright flourishes in Boulder

County, but with contemporary upgrades

24 Green Guide: It’s Good to Be Green An energy audit is one of the best ways

to “green” your home. Here’s what to expect

if you get one

42 Winterizing the Dog How to keep your best friend safe

in cold weather

46 De-Icer Digest All de-icers have pros and cons; this guide

can help you determine which one would

work best for your needs

51 Quiz: Are You a Homie? Find out if you’re an addict of all things

home related

18 Winter Bloomers Five indoor plants that will give

your home a taste of the tropics

year-round

32 How-To Guide: Growing Fresh Herbs in Winter

A living herb wall lets you enjoy

fresh herbs year-round. Here’s a

step-by-step guide to constructing one

for your kitchen

54 Advertiser Index Contact these home and garden pros

to get your house and yard

in top-notch shape

in the garden

18

32

contents

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spring is in the air!

Don’t miss the Spring 2012 issue appearing on newsstands and at your favorite retailers March 1!Spring is around the corner and we’re ready for it. Are you? You will

be, if you pick up the spring 2012 issue of Boulder County Home &

Garden Magazine, available the first of March at newsstands, retail

outlets and all King Soopers stores in Boulder County.

We’ve moved up our deadline to give you the info you need to jump-

start your spring. You’ll find a step-by-step guide to sowing seeds, the

lowdown on organic fertilizers, a Q&A on growing roses, and a dozen

peculiar perennials for your garden. You’ll find a guide to garden styles to

help you determine which type of landscape best suits you, and a profile

of Boulder’s iconic Long’s Gardens—a bit of heaven in the “big” city.

You’ll also discover a historic home, a guide to fences, how to

clean hard-to-clean items, the artistic use of wood in the home, and

much more.

In the meantime, enjoy this virtual edition, featuring links, clicks,

videos and more fun than we can ever offer in a print version. See you

in spring with our latest, greatest print edition!

winter 2012

boulDer county

Magazine

PublisherThomas W. Brock

editorCarol S. Brock

CoPy editorLisa Truesdale

editorial art direCtorKaren Sperry

PubliCation art direCtorHilary Stojak

Cover PhotoTatiana Makotra

staff PhotograPherPaul Weinrauch, WeinrauchPhotography.com

ContributorsMary Lynn BrunyMark CollinsSally PainterLisa TruesdaleBruce H. Wolk

Marketing direCtorNicole Karsted

advertising aCCount exeCutivesMike CutlerNicole KarstedLinda Wigod

offiCe ManagerRose D’Errico

boulder County hoMe & garden Magazine websitewww.homeandgardenmag.com

boulder County hoMe & garden Magazine e-Mail addresshomes@brockpub.com

Copyright © 2012 Brock Media, all rights reserved. Reproduction of any material in this magazine or on the Boulder County Home & Garden Magazine website, including publisher-produced advertising and videos, is strictly prohibited without publisher’s permission. Boulder County Home & Garden Magazine is published by Brock Media, 603 S. Broadway, Suite A, Boulder, CO 80305. Phone: 303-443-0600; fax: 303-443-6627. Subscriptions: Send $12 for four issues to the above address.

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Similar to Mid-Century Modern design, the exposed structure and materials in this historic Denver building were renovated to showcase the original wood ceiling and trusses. The new loft provides contrast between old and new construction, while adding more space with an upper-level mezzanine. Architect: Studio H:T in Boulder/Builder: Confluence Builders in Denver

9home&garden

By Bruce H. Wolk

From 1950 to 1959, nearly 8,000 new homes

were built in Boulder County. Many of these

were in subdivisions, with cookie-cutter

styles exemplified by the ranch homes of

Boulder’s Martin Acres and the split-levels

of Frasier Meadows.

But another style emerged in the 1950s

that was quite distinct, and it became

known as Mid-Century Modern—a design

born out of the genius of architect Frank

Lloyd Wright’s organic designs, California

Modern styles, German architecture of the

1920s and Japanese design principles.

Local architects embraced the Mid-

Century Modern movement, including

James Hunter (1908-1983), Hobart Wagener

(1921-2005) and Charles A. Haertling (1928-

The architectural style made famous by Frank Lloyd Wright still flourishes in Boulder County, albeit with contemporary twists.

The liberal use of glass in this modern residence is a Mid-Century Modern hallmark. Architect: Studio H:T in Boulder

Builder: Cornerstone Homes in longmont

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10 home&garden

1984). Thus, Boulder County boasts a fair number

of Mid-Century homes, although many were not

custom and incorporated prefabricated compo-

nents such as standard windows, trusses and

cabinets, and pre-hung doors.

Mid-Century homes were still unprecedented,

however, and deceptively simple. Mid-Century

design “appealed to many people, because it was

a reaction against the glut of detail and ornamenta-

tion,” says architect Harvey Hine, owner of HMH

Architecture & Interiors in Boulder. The county’s

original Mid-Century homes were typically smaller

than 1,000 square feet and contained a multiuse

area in which the living room spilled into the din-

new cork flooring, mahogany paneling, refinished solid-mahogany trim and period furnishings restored authenticity to this Mid-Century Modern home. Design/Build: C2 Architecture in Denver

before

after

Mid-Century Modern was

a reaction against the glut of

detail and ornamentation.

11 home&garden

12 home&garden

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home&garden 13

ing room. Relative to the multiuse area, the scale

of the other rooms was smaller.

Mid-Century homes also employed clean lines,

exposed beams, low-slung roofs, brick, natural

stone and building materials, and oftentimes floor-

to-ceiling glass. Extensive glass enabled the resi-

dence to “connect interior and exterior space by

the blurring of boundaries,” says architect Brad

Tomecek of Studio H:T in Boulder. Coloradans love

the outdoors, and Mid-Century design accentuated

that feeling. The county’s Mid-Century homes often

had courtyards or entry courts with garden walls to

create exterior “rooms,” Tomecek says.

“Colorado’s climate lends itself to indoor/out-

door living, and the openness of the Mid-Century

plans lent themselves to views out to the landscape

and beyond,” says Chris Craver, owner of Denver’s

C2 Architecture and a former competitive cyclist.

He notes that Mid-Century homes’ natural materials

were often used in the exterior and interior to fur-

ther complement the indoor-outdoor connection.

energy WoesAlthough the county’s original Mid-Century homes

broke new ground, the technology to make them

energy efficient was lacking.

“Basic Mid-Century homes had very thin roof

lines, with practically no insulation,” Hine says.

“The low ceilings were not good for maintaining

temperature. The large, original, clear-glass win-

dows let in a lot of light, but allowed a lot of heat

to escape. While it was a cool style, the original

homes were impractical.”

Bill Cheatwood is intimately acquainted with

the drawbacks of original Mid-Century construc-

tion. As a builder and owner of Boulder’s Blue Stone

WoodWorks, he’s renovated many homes, and

The new railing/screen wall for the stairs and vintage globe lights (opposite page) are recent additions to this original Mid-Century Modern home in Denver’s Arapahoe Acres. Architect: C2 Architecture in Denver/Builder: Shelter Construction in Denver

14 home&garden

says some Mid-Century buyers mistakenly believed

their homes were energy efficient. Cheatwood usu-

ally must open walls to spray in closed-cell foam,

replace the original clear glass with thermal-pane

windows and insulate the roof. In many of the

original structures, he says, the exterior walls are

brick next to cinder block, with little room to insu-

late. “At least 25 percent of their remodeling costs

were to improve energy efficiency,” he says.

In the decades following Mid-Century’s incep-

tion, building materials improved and potential

Mid-Century buyers were swayed to explore more

before

energy-efficient options, no matter how beautiful

the original designs.

Placing the Past in the PresentYet, design elements of Mid-Century continue

to flourish here, as local architects and builders

incorporate them into current projects.

The wood wall in the “before” photo of this 1951 Chautauqua home was removed to be more in keeping with the openness of Mid-Century Modern architecture. The entire color palette was based on the ball clock (pictured above on the wall to the right of the vent hood), whose teal, orange, brown and green colors are typical of Mid-Century Modern’s color palette. remodel: Build It! Inc. in lafayette and Blue Stone WoodWorks in Boulder

after

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home&garden16

“We are seeing smaller and more com-

pact homes” reminiscent of Mid-Century sizes,

says builder Jeff Hindman, owner of Boulder’s

Cottonwood Custom Design. “Families are asking,

‘Why must we care for a 6,000-square-foot space

when we use only 2,000 square feet or less?’”

Nostalgia is another facet of Mid-Century’s

appeal, architects say. Older people commissioning

new Mid-Century homes often want to re-create the

types of homes they knew when they were children.

Mid-Century also complements many people’s

lifestyles, Hine says: “We want smaller homes with

more of a transparent and open plan, and we want

less stuff in those rooms.”

Hindman calls the updated version of 1950 Mid-

Century homes “Colorado Modern.” “People are

looking for homes that are clean, sleek and unique—

similar to the 1950s homes,” he says. In most renova-Ph

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Modern Mid-Century designs value the use of natural— and often locally sourced—materials that easily translate from the exterior to the interior. Architect: Mosaic Architects in Boulder

Builder: Cottonwood Custom Builders in Boulder

17home&garden

tions, Hindman is typically asked to open the floor plan and

remodel the roofline to honor the views—just as original

Mid-Century Modern designs did.

Craver sometimes incorporates period sculpture and

architectural details into contemporary designs for an

updated twist on Mid-Century Modern.

“The original Mid-Century Modern homes honored the

interconnectedness between the indoors and outdoors,

functional design, and the use of indigenous materials when-

ever possible,” Tomecek notes. “These very same principles

are echoed in Modern architecture as well, and contribute

to the continued acceptance of the Mid-Century movement.”

So the spirit of Mid-Century Modern still thrives in

Boulder County, as it represents the very essence of why we

value living here.

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sThis home’s exterior features low horizontal massing and vertical design elements. Covered outdoor patios blur the inside/outside definition, and large expanses of glass open to mountain views. The home’s flat and low-pitched roofs are typical of Mid-Century Modern design. Architect: HMH Architecture & Interiors in Boulder

Builder: Cottonwood Custom Builders in Boulder

ClICk Here To See A vIDeo on FrAnk lloYD WrIGHT

ClICk Here To See A HGTv vIDeo on MID-CenTurY MoDern

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18 home&gardenhome&garden

You don’t have to jet to the islands to get a taste of the tropics this winter. Grow these plants indoors, and you’ll have brilliant blooms all season long.

Flashy Flamingo Flower’s year-round blooms add

tropical brilliance to any home.

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19home&garden

By Sally Painter

When I was young, I loved going to my

grandmother’s for the holidays. She

always grew Christmas cacti, which

invariably bloomed when we visited.

Their cheery red flowers seemed to

dispel the harsh winter weather, and

hinted at the spring to come.

Today, we have so many more

choices than my grandmother did

when it comes to winter-blooming

plants. With everything from spiky

flowers to delicate petals, winter

bloomers offer an array of flower

shapes, sizes, colors and fragrances,

and most are readily available from

nurseries or online. Many are easy

to propagate, too, so you can share

them with family and friends.

Try planting one or more of the

following to transform a gloomy

winter day into a tropical getaway.

Keep in mind that these plants are

poisonous if consumed, so keep

them out of reach of small children

and curious pets.

Flamingo FlowerAlso known as Painted Tongue and Pigtail because of the

distinctive floral spike arching from the flower, the Flamingo

Flower (Anthurium) is a perennial with oversized, heart-

shaped leaves. Dark-green foliage offsets colorful glossy

blooms, which are technically mature leaves. You can choose

from a wide range of brilliant colors, such as pink, lavender, yel-

low, red, white and orange. This native South American plant

is an ideal choice for the home because it blooms year-round.

Growing Tips

• Fertilize monthly with lime-free fertilizer.• Place in indirect light.• Prefers soil pH between 5.5-7.0.• Plant in a 3:1:1 ratio of peat, sphagnum moss and

tiny gravel.• Blooms best in temperatures between 60˚-80˚ F.• Soak thoroughly but let it dry out between waterings. • If the plant won’t bloom, move it to a room with more

natural light, but keep it out of direct sunlight.

Bloomers

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20 home&garden

orchid CactusThe Orchid Cactus (Epiphyllum) is a night-blooming cousin of the popular Christmas cactus. It’s not a true

orchid, nor does it grow in deserts. Instead, it prefers rain forests. Choose from white to bright colored

blooms. Epiphyllum hybrids also bloom during the day, allowing you to enjoy the flowering longer.

Growing Tips

• use a fertilizer high in potassium.

• Shortened daylight ensures the buds set; give the plant 13-15 hours of darkness and a night temperature between 55-70˚ F. Continue for six to nine weeks, or until the buds fully develop.

• Provide lots of indirect light (no artificial light at night).

• Prefers soil pH between 6.5-7.5.

• Plant in 1:1 ratio of perlite and potting soil.

• Blooms best in temperatures between 50-70˚ F.

• keep soil moist.

bloomin’ resourcesThe following websites sell winter bloomers or offer growing tips.

www.plantcare.com/encyclopedia www.glasshouseworks.com/winterblooms.html

www.osceola.ifas.ufl.edu/mg_faq_7.shtml#enhort.9 www.shieldsgardens.com/blogs/Garden/200912.html

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Clivia miniataClivia miniata is also sold as Clivia miniata ‘Belgium Hybrid’. Some varieties

bloom early in December, while others bloom in late January or February. Most

late bloomers continue producing delicate orange or yellow blossoms

throughout spring. This plant doesn’t bloom until it’s 3 or 4 years old.

Growing Tips• use a blooming fertilizer high in phosphate.• Provide indirect light.• Prefers soil pH between 5.5-6.5.• Plant in a balanced potting soil.• established plants develop drought resistance; until then,

water frequently. • Blooms best in temperatures between 60-70˚ F.• Does best when root-bound. Avoid frequent repotting.

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Mexican Scarlet PlumeThe Scarlet Plume (Euphorbia

fulgens) was a popular winter

bloomer among the Victorians, and

it’s appreciated by modern grow-

ers for its delicate appearance. The

slender-leafed plant has multiple

stems that arch gracefully into

orange-scarlet blooms. While the

blooms are actually bracts—leaves

that change color—they create the

illusion of flower petals.

Growing Tips

• Fertilize once in spring and once in summer.

• Provide direct sunlight in spring and summer. In fall, place the plant in a dark area to stimulate the blooming cycle for winter.

• Prefers soil pH between 6.0-7.0.• Plant in 3:2:1 ratio of sand/

perlite, potting soil and aquarium-grade charcoal.

• Blooms best in temperatures between 60-85˚ F; below 50˚ F will damage roots.

• use warm water and reduce watering during winter to encourage blooming.

• keep out of drafts. Prevent root rot with good drainage. Prune after the blooming period.

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22 home&garden

Compact Amazon lilyThe Compact Amazon Lily (Eucharis) is also known

as the Christine Amazon Lily. This plant produces

several spikes of large white blooms that resemble

daffodils and release a fragrant tropical scent. Known

as a winter bloomer, this Amazon native typically blooms

every three to four months if fertilized regularly.

Growing Tips

• use regular bloom fertilizer (overfertilizing results in foliage growth and fewer blooms).

• Provide lots of bright, indirect sunlight.

• not picky—acid, alkaline or neutral soil pH.

• Plant in loamy or sandy soil.

• Blooms best in temperatures between 65-85˚ F.

• keep moist, but don’t overwater.

• To ensure continuous blooming, don’t repot for three to four years. You can force blooming by not watering and allowing your plant to rest. As soon as flower stalks appear, resume regular watering.

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23 home&garden

Recognizing Everything About Local

Boulder Magazine Presents The 2nd Annual

Find It All At:GetBoulder.com/REALNominate. Details. Sponsor. Tickets.›› Agriculture/Horticulture

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2012 CATEGORIES

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To nominate an individual or business for one of the prestigious REAL Awards visit

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GET INVOLVED!

Sponsorships are still available at several levels. Contact Nicole Karsted at Brock Media

303-443-0600, ext. 117 or nicole@brockpub.com

Brought to you by

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24 home&garden

GoodGreen

to be

It’s

green guide

An energy audit is one of the best ways to green your home, because it gives you ideas you never would have dreamed of to improve your home’s carbon footprint.

home&garden24

An energy auditor uses a thermal-imaging camera (opposite page) to detect heat escaping from a home.

The camera pinpoints cool spots (the purple nose on Fritz the dog)

and hot spots (his yellow eyes and orange body) to determine the areas of a home that leak heat. il

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By Carol Brock

When I contacted EnergySmart to do an energy

audit of our 40-year-old home, I felt good. Who

doesn’t want to save money on utility bills? But I

was equally interested in having an audit because

I think it’s the right thing to do. I mean, why waste

energy if you don’t have to?

So in the days approaching the audit, I felt smug

in the knowledge that we were about to reduce

our home’s carbon footprint. We were looking

pretty good, I shrewdly surmised, because we’d

already replaced nearly every light bulb with CFLs,

installed an energy-efficient air conditioner and

low-flow showerheads and toilets, and replaced

most of the old aluminum single-pane windows

with double panes.

But on the day of the audit, I started to

freak out. The auditor is going to spot all my

home’s energy imperfections, I worried. Like a

dryer that takes two cycles to dry ANYTHING,

the few remaining single-pane windows, an old

fridge in the garage, the plugged-in coffeemaker,

toaster oven and microwave, a front door with

a minor hole in it, and oh JEEZ…the 40-year-old

Frigidaire oven (that’s also resplendent in its

original orange color)!

By the time the doorbell rang and the

EnergySmart auditor/Building Performance

Institute-certified building analyst Dan Werner

arrived, along with EnergySmart advisor/

Populus Sustainable Design consultant Keith

Bickford, I was nervous.

But it turns out Dan and Keith weren’t there

to chastise me for my energy losses. They didn’t

even care about my plugged-in appliances and old

oven. Their main interest was the water heater,

furnaces and AC. According to the Department

of Energy, “Sixty percent of our energy consump-

tion is from heating and cooling devices,” Dan

explained. “Only 10 percent comes from appli-

ances. So we focus on heating, cooling, insulation

and air barriers.”

Dan also shared my ecological philosophy:

“Whether a homeowner’s reason for saving energy

is out of environmental concerns or for saving

money on his utility bill, turning off a light [that’s

not in use] is the right thing to do.”

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26 home&garden

Following Dan and Keith around the house for two

hours was an eye-opening experience. All the things

I thought they’d point out were mostly irrelevant, I

discovered. And all the little things I’d never even

considered made potentially big differences in terms

of saving energy.

Another tenet of Dan’s philosophy is not to strike

fear into a homeowner by announcing that he or

she will need all new windows, a new furnace,

new appliances, new AC, new big-budget, big-ticket

items. (Though he did suggest I trade in my 40+-year-

old furnace for an energy-efficient unit, or at least

get it yearly tune-ups.)

The blower door “measures airflow going out through the fan and airflow drawn into the home.”

Dan’s a man of details. So after making a prelimi-

nary pass to spot the obvious energy-loss perpetra-

tors in my house, including non-insulated rim joists,

duct seams sealed with duct tape (“Duct tape is

good for everything, except for sealing ducts,” Dan

pointed out), sheet-metal gaps on heater vents and a

1993 hot water heater, Dan set up his blower door to

spot concealed leaks.

The blower door “measures airflow going out

through the fan and airflow drawn into the home,”

Dan explained. This helps him confirm the airflow

amount passing through the home, and if it conforms

to the standard based on a home’s size and airflow

for that size. “A house needs to breathe,” Dan noted,

“so some leaks are OK.” (In preparation for the test,

you need to remove any ashes from your fireplace so

they don’t blow throughout the home.)

In the meantime, Keith was making his own pass

through, replacing bulbs I’d missed with CFLs,

replacing a showerhead I’d missed with a low-flow

An energy audit entails setting up a red “blower door” over a home exit to determine the airflow coming into and out of the home. This lets the auditor know if the home conforms to the standard for its size, or if too many leaks are making the residence energy inefficient.

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Attic hatches and electrical outlets are two common areas where heat can escape from a home.

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ClICk Here To See A vIDeo on DeTeCTInG AIr leAkS In Your HoMe

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head, staunching a faucet’s too-fast flow with a fau-

cet aerator, and insulating pipes on the hot water

heater with Styrofoam.

He also suggested I vacuum the refrigerator

coils, and if I must run the outdoor refrigerator,

either keep it full or fill it with water jugs. (Keith

also determined our dog Fritz is “an EnergyStar–

rated dishwasher” after he watched him com-

pletely lick my lunch plate clean.) Then Keith gave

me bags of weather stripping for the leaks he knew

Dan’s thermal-imaging camera was going to find.

And Dan found the most curious leaks, like all

the electrical outlets mounted on exterior-facing

walls. He was a fount of easy, cheap fixes, too, like

unscrewing the faceplates, inserting foam sleeves

over the outlets, screwing in the faceplates and

stuffing unused outlets with baby-guard seals.

(Ducts, BTW, are easily sealed with water-based

Mastic sealant that you can smear on with a rubber

glove, Dan told me, or a paintbrush for a cleaner

look.) Dan’s camera spotted leaks around light

fixture bases, door trims, fireplace seams, ceiling

beams and track-light boxes. The easiest fix? Caulk.

And the old hot water heater? “There’s no benefit

to replacing it,” Dan said, so he suggested we wrap it

with a blanket instead. Keith also insisted we check

the dryer vent for lint clogs, which are a source of

energy inefficiency and a potential fire hazard.

Do What You Can When You CanThe most egregious leak—and this is true of a lot

of homes, Dan told me—was around the attic hatch

doors. “Attics are nasty places,” he informed me.

“They’re super-hot in summer and freezing cold

in winter.” Proper insulation, therefore, is critical.

Although my attic originally had 8 inches of rock-

wool insulation rated R-13, “which was fairly high

for 1972,” Dan noted, the owners added another

foot of blown-in fiberglass in the early ’90s. It’s

rated R-32, but the attic could use another foot to

achieve the recommended standard of R-49.

never use duct tape to seal ducts (left). use water-based Mastic sealant instead. Insulating an attic (below) to r-49 is one of the best ways to increase a home’s energy efficiency. After an energySmart energy audit, the advisor (above) details options for improving the home’s energy envelope.

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Until I find an extra thousand

dollars to plump up the insulation, I

could go a long way toward energy

efficiency just by lining the hatch

doors with the weather stripping

Keith knew I was going to need.

Dan has another philosophy that

I appreciate as a homeowner in

rough economic times: “You do

what you can when you can.” That

means, although I may need a new

furnace and more insulation, I could

just spend $40 for outlet insulators,

weather stripping and a boatload

of caulk, and get to the big-ticket

items when I can afford them.

EnergySmart is a great program,

in that they inform you of all the

options, big and small, and don’t

push anything on you or try to sell

you something. Dan’s an indepen-

dent auditor whose only job is to per-

form energy audits. He’ll prioritize

five energy fixes for my home and

it’s for me to decide which ones to

implement. “We don’t want to over-

whelm homeowners with a thick

manual and giant reports that will get

thrown in a drawer and then nothing

gets done,” Dan told me. “Let’s attack

those few things that are going to

make the biggest impact.”

The audit costs just $120, and

you even get stuff like CFL bulbs,

weather stripping, showerheads, a

radon test kit and pipe insulation.

But you must be a Boulder County

resident to participate.

As an EnergySmart advisor, Keith

will take Dan’s data and give me

recommendations. If I decide to do

anything that requires a contractor,

Keith will provide a list of certi-

fied contractors who are enrolled

home&garden 29

30 home&garden

to work in the EnergySmart program, and whose

work must conform to the Building Performance

Institute standards. He’ll also inform me of any

rebates I’m eligible for, and even fill out the paper-

work for me.

Keith and Dan didn’t mind us tagging along

with a lot of questions, whereas other homeown-

ers may prefer to work at their computers while

the auditor and advisor do their work. Either

way is fine with them.

So all my worry was for naught. Dan said

our remaining single-pane windows, which we’d

already gotten a $3,000 estimate to replace, weren’t

so bad after all. They were well installed and

don’t leak, so he suggested energy-efficient blinds

instead. “High-efficiency blinds aren’t cheap,” Dan

said, “but they’re cheaper than new windows.”

Energy efficiency is also a quality-of-life issue

that needs to be weighed accordingly. The dog door

is a perfect example. Although a dog door is largely

energy inefficient, it performs a valuable service.

“We won’t tell you to replace the dog door,” Dan

said, “because then you’ll have to get up and let the

dog out. Our goal is energy efficiency, not to make

your life miserable.”

And they succeeded in our case. We went to

McGuckin that weekend and purchased foam

ready for rebaTes

check these websites to find out what rebates and/or tax credits are available for energy improvements. Too much to manage? sign up with energysmart and they’ll find the rebates for you.

www.energysmartyes.com/home/rebates-financing

www.rechargecolorado.org

www.info.com/federalenergyrebates

www.energy.gov/savings

www.energystar.gov/taxcredits

www.energysavers.gov/financial

www.responsiblebynature.com

old furnaces (left) and non-insulated rim joists (above) were two of the top five energy concerns that need addressing in the energySmart audit conducted at this 1972 home.

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outlet covers, caulk and a blanket

for the hot water heater. Then we

headed to Boulder Lights to buy

a new fixture to replace the hor-

ribly leaky one with a nonfunc-

tioning base fan that vents to the

attic. And we have a wish list with

insulation and furnace scrawled

in large letters, which I swear

we’ll get to when we can—and

Xcel offers rebates for both.

For information on the

EnergySmart program, visit

www.energySmartYES.com or

call 303-544-1000.

iT Pays To save enerGy

if you plan to make energy improvements to your home, both energysmart and Xcel energy have rebate programs that help you save not only energy, but big bucks, too. energysmart’s rebate program offers up to $1,000 per household for energy improvements. These improvements will make your home more comfortable, and the newest rebates recently announced for 2012 will put money back in your wallet. for information, visit www.energysmartyes.com and www.xcelenergy.com/homerebates.

—Carol Brock

ClICk Here To See More enerGY AuDIT IMAGeS

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A step-by-step guide to constructing a living herb wall that lets you enjoy fresh herbs year-round.

Text and photos by Sally Painter

grow ing

i n w i n t e r

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don’t know about you, but in the dead of winter I yearn for

the fresh basil, thyme and rosemary I grew in summer. So

fragrant, and such delicious additions to all sorts of dishes.

I decided that simply because it’s winter doesn’t mean

I can’t grow fresh herbs. So I thought about building and

mounting an edible, living herb wall in my kitchen from which

I could snip fresh herbs for cooking meals. The herb wall is

easier to make than I thought (I have limited carpentry skills),

and all it requires is the wall space to hang it and sufficient

light from a window or grow light. My herb wall is 11 inches

wide, 31¼ inches tall and 6 inches deep, and comfortably

accommodates eight herb plants. Depending on your materi-

als at hand, you can build it in a day for $60 or less.

Now I have fresh herbs all winter for a fraction of the cost

of buying them from a grocery store. You can, too, if you fol-

low the steps starting on page 34.

Materials list• One1-by-12-by-8-inchcedarboard• One1-by-6-by-8-inchcedarboard (select an untreated building wood

like cedar, with a smooth finished side and a rough side. realize that board sizes may vary slightly from the advertised bin size.)

• Twoplasticreservoirwatertrays (one to hold water at the top and the other to catch any overflow at the bottom). use nontoxic plastic labeled 1,2,4or5;avoidplasticslabeled3,6or 7; note that reservoir trays come in all different sizes.

• Fifty-three#81¼-inchwoodscrews• Four1-inchhinges• Magneticdoorcloser• Twocabinetdoorpulls• Two1-inchfinishnails• Whitewoodglue• 1yardFlorafelt(formoisture

absorption)• Two29-inchlengthsof¼-inch

drip line• Fourdrip-lineflow-controlvalve

regulators• Zero-VOC(volatileorganic

compounds) waterproof caulk• Zero-VOCwaterproofsealant• OneHangmanheavy-dutymirror-and-

picture-hanging system (or a similar interlocking product)

• Zero-VOCpaintorstain(optional, for exterior use)

Tools list• Compoundmitersaw• 7¼-inchcircularsaw• Awl• 3/8-inchcordlessdrill/driver• Dremelordrill• Phillipsscrewdriver• Onelight-coloredmarker• Onedrip-lineholepuncher• Caulkinggun• Orbitalhandsander

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A

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C D

B

E

STEP 1 cut cedar boardsusing a circular or compound miter saw, cut cedar boards into the following dimensions:

1 back board, 11-by-29¾ inches

2 side boards, 5½-by-29¾ inches

2 endboards,61⁄8-by-11 inches

1 water reservoir tray top shelf, 9½-by-5½ inches

1 center support board, 5½-by-23 inches

8 plantshelves,4½-by-65⁄8 inches; bevel each width end with a 30-degree cut using a compound miter saw

2 top and bottom façade boards, 4¼-by-11inches

STEP 3 DrillHolesfortheDripLineintheWaterReservoirTrayandtheWaterReservoirTrayTopShelfmake two holes for the drip lines in the water reservoir tray top shelf D . measure 2½ inches in from each end of the top shelf, and mark these with a pencil. you’ll also have to line up the holes in the plastic water reservoir tray (not pictured) with the holes in the top shelf, because you need to drill matching holes through both the tray and the top shelf it sits upon.

STEP 2 DrillAerationHoles in thePlantShelvesfirst, trace a “hole” template onto a 4-by-8-inchindexcardthatiscuttofittheplant shelves F ; the holes should start 2 inches in from one end of the board and 1 inch in from the opposite end. space three 11⁄64-inch holes across the board vertically, for a total of six vertical rows with three holesineachrow(you’llhave18holestotal).

Place the template on the plant shelf and use an awl to mark each hole’s place on the shelf. drill holes with an 11⁄64-inch drill bit.

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30°

front

back

frontback

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STEP 6 connect shelves to center support boardstarting at the top of the center support board E , measure and mark 5-inch increments all the way down the board E on the right side. next, measure and mark 5½-inch increments all the way down the left side of the center support board E . you should have four of each measurement of 5 inches on the right side and 5½ inches on the left side marked on the center support board to indicate where to attach the staggered shelves. before attaching the plant shelves, be sure the drip-line hole in each plant shelf faces into the back board A

before securing the shelf at the marked measurements. secure plant shelves F to the center support E with screws that enter the opposite side of the center support E .

STEP 7 attach side boards to the back board and Plant shelvesbe sure to attach the side boards B to the inside edge of the back board A to create a butt joint. don’t

attach the side boards to the outside edge of the back board. attach the top and bottom of each plant shelf F to the side board using one screw at the top and one at the bottom.

STEP 4 DrillHolesinthePlantshelves for the drip lineon the eight plant shelves F at the width end that has aeration holes 1 inch from the bottom,measure2¼inchesinfromthelength side to find the center. use a dremel or drill to cut a u-shape through each shelf to accommodatethe¼-inchdripline.

STEP 5 connect back board to center support with screws Measure3½inchesinfromthetop,3¼inches in from the bottom, and 5½ inches in from each side of the back board A to ensure the center support board E is centered on the front side of the back board. after centering, attach with screws.

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EB B

F

back

DB

STEP 8 install end board to frame bottomuse five screws to install the end board C to the frame bottom.

STEP 9AttachWaterReservoir Top shelf to side boardsuse two screws per side to attach the front and back of the top shelf D to the side boards B .

C

STEP 10Hingeafaçade board to bottom end board and attach magnetic door closermount two hinges on the outside and attach a magnetic door closer to the inside of the façade board and side board, making sure the magnets line up.

STEP 11 install door Pull on the outside of the bottom façade boardyou can install door pulls on both the bottom and top façade boards G , if you prefer.

STEP 12 secure Top façade board with 1-inch finish nails and WoodGlueinstall the top façade board G using wood glue and 1-inch finish nails on both sides.

STEP 13HingeTop end board to outside back boardmount two hinges to the exteriors of the back board A and end board C .

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home&garden 37

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STEP 14 cut and Place felt in the back of the eight Plant compartmentsflorafelt absorbs excess moisture.

STEP 15 run the drip lines Through the Top shelf board HolesandPlantshelvesThread a drip line through the water reservoir tray, the top shelf and the back of each plant shelf.

STEP 16MarkWaterHoleson the drip linesuse a light-colored marker to mark the holes you’ll need to punch into the drip line. space the holes 1 inch apart, but leave 1 inch of unmarked drip line on either side of each plant shelf so that the shelves won’t get wet. after marking the holes on one drip line, remove it and mark the second drip line with holes that line up with the marked drip line.

STEP 17MakeHoleswith the drip-line HolePuncherafter making the drip-line holes, thread the drip lines top to bottom through the reservoir tray, top shelf and plant shelves.

STEP 18 attach flow-control valve regulators to the Top of each drip LineintheWaterReservoirTrayandCaulktheHolesattach flow-control valve regulators to the top of each drip line and caulk the holes where the drip lines thread through the plastic water reservoir tray. adjust the opening of the flow-control valve to regulate the water flowing through the drip line to the herbs.

AD

F

HerbGardenPointersafter the herb garden is assembled, you can sand the exposed ends of the plant shelves for a smoother finish, or paint or stain the entire exterior with zero-voc materials. you could also personalize it with your own decorative designs.

don’t overwater your herb garden; fill the water reservoir tray every two to three days, depending on the tray’s size. your herb garden should receive a daily minimum of six hours of sunlight. Position the garden to receive direct sunlight from a window or a light fixture with a grow light.

STEP 19 cap the bottom ends of each drip line with flow-control valve regulators after capping the bottom end of each drip line, be sure to adjust the flow-control valve regulators to the fully closed position. Then insert the plastic water reservoir overflow tray and set the capped ends inside the tray.

STEP 20 seal outer Joints with caulkuse a caulking gun to seal all outer joints with a zero-voc waterproof caulk.

STEP 21 apply sealant to the exterior of the back boarduse a nontoxic waterproof sealant on the exterior of the back board A to protect the wall when you hang the finished living herb garden.

A

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STEP 22AttachHangmanSystemtoBackBoardandWallTheHangmanheavy-dutymirror-and-picture system is an interlocking mount that worked beautifully for this project. one piece attaches to the back of the herb garden. The other attaches to the wall. it even has a built-in level to guarantee your herb garden hangs straight.

ClICk Here To See A vIDeo on PlAnTInG A verTICAl HerB GArDen

STEP 23 Place on flat surface and fill compartmentsadd potting soil and pat it firmly into the plant compartments. add plants, water them with a watering can and let the herb garden settle on the flat surface for two days. i planted stevia and rosemary in the top row, lavender and spiced globe basil in the second row, lemon balm and thyme in the third row, and sage and oregano in the bottom row.

STEP 24HangLivingHerbWallGardenafter two days, hang your herb garden on the wall of your choice and fill the top shelf reservoir water tray with water. i put mine in the kitchen, where it’s easy to transfer the fresh herbs to salads and cooked dishes.

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I n winter we can drag out our jackets

and gloves, but what about our pooches?

When temperatures plummet, they can’t

wrap themselves in a coat, so it’s up to us

to meet their needs. Here are tips on how

to winterize your best friend to keep him

safe and healthy in cold weather.

Where the Wild Things AreWinter temperatures don’t halt infectious dis-

eases, but they do embolden wild animals to enter

our yards—and that’s a problem for dogs. While

dogs are at risk from bites, infectious diseases

carried by animals like foxes and skunks pose a

greater danger.

Dr. Jenelle Vail, a veterinarian at the Humane

Society of Boulder Valley Veterinary Clinic, spe-

cializes in the prevention of infectious diseases

and confirms the presence of rabies in Boulder

County. The Health Department will quarantine

an unvaccinated dog or one that’s overdue for

rabies vaccination if the dog was in contact with

a wild animal.

Distemper is another disease that can be deadly

to unvaccinated dogs. It’s transmitted to dogs from

infected animals, including wildlife such as foxes

and other carnivores.

Leptospirosis, a bacterial infection that affects

the liver and kidneys, can spread from dogs to

humans. The disease is transmitted to dogs through

contact with the urine or waste of wild animals. Vail

recommends vaccinating your dog against leptospi-

rosis as well as bordatella (aka “kennel cough”), in

addition to the more common rabies and distemper.

And don’t put off inoculations until spring,

especially if you plan to board your dog this winter.

Fleas live in Colorado and pose a threat to dogs

and humans. In winter, fleas are transmitted to

dogs from wild animals like raccoons and prairie

dogs. Even though most people only treat pets for

Your dog depends on you to keep him safe in winter. Here are tips to have your pet sitting pretty in cold weather.

By Bruce H. Wolk

the Dog

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fleas and ticks in summer, ideally dogs should be

treated year-round, Vail says.

Because mosquitoes carry heartworm, some

people incorrectly assume dogs can’t become

infected in winter. According to Vail, mosquitoes

can survive indoors and therefore still transmit

heartworm. She suggests keeping your dog on

heartworm medication year-round.

Arthritic dogs may require medications in winter

to help ease joint pains exacerbated by cold weather;

check with your vet.

Poisonous elixirsDogs and cats are attracted to antifreeze, which can

be fatal if ingested. Never leave open containers

around pets or children, and make sure antifreeze

doesn’t leak from your car onto the garage floor.

Snow-melting salts can irritate the mouth and

digestive tract if a dog licks the chemicals off its

paws, so wash your dog’s feet upon returning home

if you’ve walked along salted sidewalks.

Coat the CoatWhen it’s extremely cold, most dogs tend to dash out,

do their thing and run back indoors. But if your dog

holds up its feet or starts shaking on longer walks, wrap

the dog in a coat and protect its paws with booties.

PeT resources

Herearelinkstolocalpetcompanieswhereyou can buy dog coats, booties, water-bowl heaters, doghouses and more:

Farfel’s Farm www.farfels.com

Four Paws & Co. www.fourpawsandco.com

McGuckin Hardware www.mcguckin.com (click on “pets” in the categories list)

Only Natural Pet Store www.onlynaturalpet.com

PetSmart www.petsmart.com

Whole Pets www.wholepets.com

home&garden 43

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Dogs can get frostbite—the most common

frostbite areas are the tips of the ears and the

tail. Also, look for hair loss and red inflamed

tissue. If you suspect frostbite, take your dog to

a veterinarian, as medications or surgery may

be needed.

Paw ProductsExtreme cold is a problem for dogs’ paws, but

a few new products offer improved protection.

Farfel’s Farm in Boulder recommends “Pawz”—

disposable latex boots that are comfortable and

easy to put on your dog before heading out for

cold-weather walks.

Four Paws & Company in Longmont likes

“Musher’s Secret”—a wax that prevents snow

buildup between dog’s toes. It’s particularly useful

for dogs with fur between their toes.

Thicker cloth or canvas booties have their uses,

especially on cross-country ski outings, where metal-

edged skis can cause severe paw lacerations.

’Tis the SeasonDuring the holidays, many dangers await curious

pets. Ornaments and holiday plants pose toxic

threats to pets. Keep holiday plants, tinsel, glass

ornaments and other decorations out of dogs’

reach, and electrical cords out of the way.

In the DoghouseAny dog outside for prolonged periods needs a

sheltered doghouse positioned out of the wind,

says Ben Rickard, a former animal-control officer

and co-owner of The Dog Spot doggie day-care

center in Boulder.

The doghouse floor should be raised a few

inches off the ground and covered with cedar

shavings or straw. The doorway should be covered

with waterproof burlap or heavy plastic. The house

should be large enough so the dog can sit and lie

down comfortably, but small enough to hold in the

animal’s body heat.

As long as a dog is dry and sheltered, it can usu-

ally stay warm, no matter the brand of doghouse.

Regularly clean the doghouse to prevent parasites.

Pets who spend a lot of time outdoors may

need more food in winter, because keeping warm

depletes energy. Refill the water bowl twice a day

with fresh water. For outside dogs, the bowl should

be spill-proof and contain a heating element. Use

plastic food and water bowls rather than metal;

when the temperature is low, your pet’s tongue can

stick and freeze to metal.

Vail and Rickard offer these additional tips:

• Don’tconfineyourdogtoanenclosureorpatio

that has concrete flooring. Concrete can cause

ulcers on pressure points like elbows and hips.

Protect dogs from frostbite by dressing them in booties and coats during extremely cold weather.

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encounters of the Stinky kind

skunks don’t hibernate and are active in winter. if your dog tangles with a skunk, chances are he or she stinks to high heaven—not a pleasant prospect for you or your home. contrary to popular lore, tomato juice doesn’t cut the smell, but there is a home treatment credited to chemist Paul Krebaum that works after several applications and rinses: mix 1 quart hydrogen peroxidewith¼ cup baking soda and1-2 tablespoons grease-cutting dish soap.

commercial alternatives include skunk-off and smelly-Pet shampoo. be sure to also

check your dog for skunk bites. if the dog is bitten, thoroughly

wash the wound with soap and running water, and contact

your vet as the dog may have been exposed

to rabies.

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• Never leave a tied-up

dog unsupervised. If the tie

gets wrapped around a leg

or neck, loss of life or limb

could occur.

• Don’tleavethedogdooropen

when you’re away. Rickard

recalls cases in which wild

animals and even burglars

entered homes through open

dog doors. It’s better to have

a pet sitter walk your dog a

couple of times a day, or take

the dog to a day-care facility.

When it comes to dogs in

winter, the best safeguard is

common sense. If you take these

tips to heart, your dog will enjoy

carefree winter days, and many

opportunities to make snow

angels with you.

ClICk Here To See A vIDeo on ProTeCTInG Your DoG In WInTer

ClICk Here To See A vIDeo oF FrITz, A reSCue DoG THAT IS THe MAGAzIne’S MASCoT

Position a doghouse out of the wind and raise it a few inches off the ground.

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using a de-icer is often a necessity. But de-icing is dicey, because each product has its pros and cons. This guide can help you determine which de-icer would work best for your needs.

By Mark Collins

In most cases, the most effective way to keep

walkways free of ice is a good old-fashioned

snow shovel. That is, unless you’re trying

to avoid a sore back. After you’ve removed

the top layer of snow and downed your ration

of ibuprofen, it may be time for a de-icer to

complete the job.

When it comes to manufactured de-icers,

there are many to choose from, each with its

pros and cons. Typically, the more effective

a chemical de-icer is at melting ice, the more

toxic it is to vegetation and pets, and the more

corrosive it is to the surfaces it’s intended

to de-ice.

The most common de-icers are salt-based

ones, which work by lowering the freezing

point. Different salts or combinations of salts

have different effectiveness in terms of their

freezing points. Interestingly, it’s not the chemi-

cal compounds themselves that harm concrete;

it’s the effect they have on the freezing point

that can damage a walkway. The more salt-

based ice-melters you use on concrete, and

the lower their freezing point, the more freeze-

thaw cycles the concrete will experience, and

the more likely it will begin to break down.

De-icer Digest

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De-icer Type Pros Cons

Calcium Chloride melts to -25 degrees. Highlycorrosivetometal and concrete; can damage vegetation and burn pet paws if overapplied.

Calcium Magnesium Acetate (CMA)

safer for plants. not as effective at melting ice; tends to leave a slush.

Crystalline Amide (SafePaw)

salt-free and melts ice to -2  degrees;purportedtobesafefor pets.

overuse can damage vegetation.

Magnesium Chloride melts below zero; purported to be less corrosive and less toxic than other salt de-icers.

overuse can be harmful to pets and vegetation.

Potassium Chloride melts to 12 degrees. can harm plants and pets if overapplied.

Sand, Sawdust or Kitty Litter

The grit may create better foot traction.

They have no properties that promote melting.

Sodium Chloride (rock salt)

melts to 25 degrees; inexpensive and readily available.

corrosive to concrete and damaging to vegetation; can burn pet paws if overapplied.

Urea (fertilizer compound)

melts to 12 degrees; safer for pets if used moderately.

overuse can damage vegetation due to the high nitrogen content.

Volcanic Minerals (EcoTraction)

Provides traction on icy surfaces; doesn’t harm vegetation or pets when used moderately.

does not melt ice; not readily available in colorado (visit www.ecotraction.com).

The Differences Between De-IcersHere are basic de-icers, and some pros and cons about the substances used in them:

ClICk Here To See A vIDeo ABouT De-ICInG ConCreTe

ClICk Here To See A vIDeo on HoW To ProPerlY SHovel SnoW

And the fact is, salt-based ice-melters are

not always pet- or vegetation friendly, even if a

particular manufacturer promotes its product

with marketing terms like “pet safe” or “earth

friendly.” Read beyond the bold eco-friendly

wording on the front of some products and you’ll

find instructions that advise you to wear rubber

gloves when applying the de-icer. Take the glove

instructions seriously; take the marketing jargon

with a grain of salt.

As for pets, excessive exposure to salt de-

icers on walkways can cause furry friends to

burn their paws, or give them intestinal problems

if they lick paws caked with de-icer residue.

Whether it’s a sidewalk lined with grass or

plants, a wooden deck favored by the family

dog, concrete steps that turn treacherous, or an

entryway that becomes an ice-skating rink come

January, each particular winter-freezing prob-

lem spot may call for a different kind of product.

So your best option is good old-fashioned trial

and error.

Herearesomeguidelinestofollowtomakede-icing safer and easier:

   start with a shovel. always first remove accumulated snow from the area or walkway you want to de-ice.

   follow the instructions that come with the de-icing product you use, and never overapply.

   Weargloveswhenapplyingade-icer;many are skin irritants.

   do not use an ice-melter on concrete that hasn’t fully cured.

   because most de-icer products have an effect on the environment, including vegetation and pets, always fully flush the area to which you’ve applied an ice melter after the weather warms.

—mark collins

safeTy TiPs

Before applying a de-icer, clear as much snow as possible with a snow shovel. (Hopefully, your drifts won’t be as high as this fellow’s.)

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❶ Do you frequent home-related stores like McGuckin Hardware, Home Depot, Pottery Barn, The Container Store, etc., more than you go to grocery stores?A. sometimes.B. Well,yes,buteverybodyalwaysgetsfed.Top ramen has more nutrition than most people think, especially if you add frozen peas and broccoli to it.C. no! and how much pottery do people buy that they sell a whole barn full?

❷ Is your family often confused because you rearrange the furniture so often?A. my family is confused whether i move the furniture around or not. B. Well, furniture is not attached to thefloor for a reason. if they can’t adjust it’s their problem. a couple of split shins and a few stitches won’t kill anybody (and the permanent scarring is minimal). C. i only move furniture if an animal dies beneath it.

take “the quiz”

By Mary lynn Bruny

Are you a

We all have our “issues,” some worse than others. But there’s a quiet condition, literally hidden behind the curtains of nice homes everywhere. It’s the serious “homie,” or addict of all things home related such as organizing, decorating and remodeling. To outsiders, homies seem like perfectly well-adjusted, hardworking individuals who keep their houses nicely maintained. But to significant others and offspring, the homie harbors a sickness: the inability to stop doing home projects. Are you a homie? Take our quiz to find out.

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“Homie?”

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❸ How often do you move?A. WheneverIchangejobstoanothertown.B. Wheneverallthehouseprojectsaredone.C. WheneverI’mevicted.

❹ How many of the following items do you own several of: throw pillows, sets of dishes, seasonal wreaths, table linens, candles, houseplants, seasonal doormats, accent blankets, seasonal accessories?A. Two or three.B. all of the above. C. one, if my pine-scented room deodorizers count as seasonal accessories.

❺ Do you have more photos of house projects than family events?A. no.B. it’s not my fault if house projects are more interesting than our kids’ events or family weddings or trips or whatever. i mean, how many pictures of a kid kicking a soccer ball do you really need? C. Photos?

❻ Do you think reorganizing your drawers and closets is a perfectly wonderful Friday-night activity?A. maybe, if a bottle of wine and some good music are involved.B. oh, that sounds so fun, especially if new shelf paper and organizational containers are included!C. no, once i start composting i don’t like to disturb the process.

❼ Do you consider a vacuum cleaner, a leaf  blower or new gutters a nice anniver sary gift?A. maybe, if it’s from my mother-in-law.B. it doesn’t get any more romantic to me. nothing says “i love you” quite like a Hoover.C. i don’t know. on my last anniversary i astroTurfed the living room, and that did not go over well. i don’t understand it; think how easy it would have been to clean—just hose it down once in a while.

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❽ What is your experience with wall paint?A. Ilikethisonecalled“ArizonaWhite.”B. before choosing a new color, i believe in painting swatches of numerous colors on all walls to see how light at various times of day changes them, sometimes examining them through several seasons. i admit this may have contributed to my first divorce…C. WhenIpaint—every20to30years—Igofor the “economical surprise,” the mistakenly mixed, marked-down paint.

❾ What do you think of HGTV?A. i like a couple of those shows. B. i Tivo several shows so i can study them at my leisure. my favorite show is “design star.” i secretly compete with the contestants and usually think i could do a better job.C. IsthatavariantofH1N1flu?

❿ Do you think going to IKEA is the perfect  date?A. if i were going with brad Pitt (or angelina Jolie), yes, i would think that’s absolutely the perfect date. B. yes! and i don’t understand why they don’t have a hotel attached so it could be a whole weekend getaway. or better yet, just let you sleep in the beds at the store!C. IKEA?IsthatlikeIHOP?

What do you think takes more talent: choosing and arranging accessories or per form-ing brain surgery?A. brain surgery, definitely.B. Well, brain surgery isn’t rocket science, forPete’s sake. i’d just like to see a brain surgeon Try to arrange accessories. it’s a loT harder than it looks. C. brain surgery is so overrated. i think i’m fine just the way i am, no matter what they say.

If you have children, how many house re- models or large projects have they lived through?A. one.B. i think it’s a great learning experience to live in a tent for most of one’s childhood. my kids had a good time— really.C. none, i don’t want to traumatize the kids even though they don’t live at home anymore.

How did you score?If your answers are:Mainly A: You seem like a fairly well-adjusted individual. What are you hiding?Mainly B: You’re definitely one sick little homie. Seek help or, better yet, like-minded friends.Mainly C: You may want to rethink home-ownership. Actually, you may want to rethink a number of things.

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