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Black Truffles in Carpentras and the Comtat Venaissin GB

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Page 1: Black Truffles in Carpentras and the Comtat Venaissin GB
Page 2: Black Truffles in Carpentras and the Comtat Venaissin GB

From the early antiquity man has known truffle (reknown for its aphrodisiac powers).We can find traves of truffles in some 4000 years oldterracotta tablets found in Mesopotamia.In France the truffle growth area is located betweenthe 44th and the 46th North latitude degree andtherefore includes the Comtat.In Carpentras the Friday truffle markets exist since“the most ancient times”. In 1155 a charter wasgranted by Raymond V, Earl of Toulouse, to recallthat no other market should be created betweenthe Ouvèze and the Sorgues rivers.

The Popes in Avignon, and their cardinals and archbishops definitely allowedthe Carpentras truffle thanks to banquets, feasts and receptions of anEuropean scale court.

But it is in the XIXth century that the truffle truly expanded. First in 1840 whenJoseph Talon and Auguste Rousseau, both from Carpentras, had the idea ofcultivate truffles. They were quickly imitated because of the phylloxera epidemicwhich contaminated the wine producing regions : agricultors planted truffles-oaksin the destroyed vineyards.But the intensive production known at the beginning of the XXth century wasstopped by World War One.Today the average production, on a normal year, represent from 30 to 40 tons.80% of the production comes from the South East of France and a third of itfrom Carpentras.

Page 3: Black Truffles in Carpentras and the Comtat Venaissin GB

Carpentras truffle market stands on a nice squareplanted with plane trees, just in front of a beautifulAge of Enlightenment building, from the Fridaybefore the beginning of the Saint-Siffrein Fair(27th of November) until the end of March.

The produce being wreath in mystery, the market isvery intimate, quiet and authentic ; wrapped ina particular atmosphere. Hidden in small bagstruffles are awaited like stars, wearing theirbeautiful “Tuber Melanosporum” black dress,their fragrance flies all over the market.

The best ones should be firm, round shaped and not too big but well chiselledcoarse-grained is to be seen on the outward appearance. Small groups of tightlypacked men and women speak very low, ready to work “romaine” (scale) and“filoche” (rake) in their hands ; the transactions are made surreptitiously.But everything is clear, net, precise.Bags are getting bigger as they are stuffed with truffles, the market is ending.Carpentras market is used as the reference to the other regional market.“Caveur” (pickers) from eight departments come to show their “rabasses” (truffles)to brokers, merchants, wholes alers and preservers coming from all over France.

From time to time, these pickers come to ask for a share of the exclusive right topick up truffles in the state woods and forests of Mont Ventoux. All of this happens with no problem among this strongly united small world.

Page 4: Black Truffles in Carpentras and the Comtat Venaissin GB

If the Vaucluse is considered as a huge truffle field, the Carpentras plain is cradleof this high quality and unique product. The truffle production is of course alsohelped by a high quality chalky soil, a good hydrometry, nice weather conditions,a perfect altitude and the presence of specific tree species in the Comtat.

Carpentras and its surrounding are proud of their truffle tradition both on thecommercial and production levels. The truffle is really rooted in Carpentras ; firstwith its market but also thanks of its truffle fields, its canning factories, its exhibitions,its teching at the agricultural high school and last but not least to its restaurants.

When the truffles have been bought for canning from dealers, the dirt is takenoff them and they are sorted by variety (Tuber Melanosporum, Brumale) and byquality (whole or broken).The final stage, sterilization in water heated to 118°C takes 2h45. The truffle looses25% of its weight in liquid, “truffle juice” which is very useful. The Conserverie Vianis a specialist in Carpentras.

The truffle is renowned for its gastronomic, aromatic, and dietary qualities. It is easilydigested and contains plenty of fiber and amino acids. It contains 80% of waterand little fat. From the most ancient times it has been known for its medical qualities ;against pain, gout and weakness. During the past century doctors used to prescribetruffle water against vomiting and diarrhoea, and to stimulate the organs.

But it is mainly thanks to its gastronomic qualities that the Carpentras truffle is sofamous, thanks toits generous flavourand unique aroma.

Chefs in Carpentras and elsewhere areabsolutely right when they say that thetruffle is their best ingredient.

Page 5: Black Truffles in Carpentras and the Comtat Venaissin GB

The Brotherhood was born on february 1999 by Mr Guy Bernard, member of theCarpentras Town Council in charge of Tourism, and by all his team which isfound of the Tuber Melanosporum.The brothers are wearing a special suit and their reason are :to know, to love, to apreciate, to defend and to promote the Comtat Venaissin& Mont Ventoux black truffle.

To contact the Brotherhood : 04 90 60 33 33Durbesson Castle - [email protected]

With the same passion for Comtat products and all together around the BlackDiamond, members of the Club have a strong link with the Brotherhood of theOrder of Mont Ventoux & Comtat Venaissin Truffle and with the Truffle ProducersRegional Union, to join their forces to promote the Tuber Melanosporum.A three parts document has been made to limitate the partnership conditions.The most important article concerns the quality and the information of eachcustomer.

So, restaurants, hotels and shops owners have to promote this product andwork with the brotherhood to organize shows, fairs and markets about the truffle.

Those who participate have a sticker in front of the door of their shop, restaurant or hotel.You can find the list of Club membersat the Tourist information Office.

Page 6: Black Truffles in Carpentras and the Comtat Venaissin GB

TRUFFLES PRODUCING YOUNG PLANTSMycorhized plant (ie : when an undergroundgrowing mushroom is combined with aroot), controlled by the INRA or the CTIFL,or producer according to the traditionnalway, are available. You can find them atthe MIN (National Interest Market) everyFriday mornings (professional) or on theTruffle Market (retail).

PROFESSIONNALS PRODUCERSOF TRUFFLE PLANTSJean-Marie REY 04 90 70 36 00Gilbert ESPENON 04 90 66 01 03Maurice CLOP 04 90 65 72 46Laurent GILLES 04 90 72 87 97

TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICEVisit of truffle plantations, demonstrations given by producers...Informations : 04 90 63 00 78

THE MONT VENTOUX & COMTAT VENAISSINTRUFFLE BROTHERHOOD ORDERwww.truffes.orgIts members know how to share theirpassion of the “Tuber Melanosporum”with you.

This noble fuit keeps its secret from the earth tothe palate. Passion tinged with an authentic andage-old way of life.

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A SPECIFIC TRAINING FROM PLANTING...

... TO MARKETING

To transmit the result of research anddevelopment and its corollary applicationto the present and future truffle cultivator,the CFFPA (adult training center) ofCarpentras, working in close collaborationwith the Vaucluse producers union andthe FRPT (Truffle Producers RegionalUnion) of Provence, organizes each yeartwo weeks of training, one in March, theother in November.

During 3 days of training, the fundamentalpoints of the truffle culture are tackledthus allowing the trainers to handleevery technical element they need tocreate or to maintain their truffle field inthe best possible conditions and so toguarantee good gathering of this mysteriousand sublime black diamond.

Information :C.F.P.P.A. - Lycée Louis GiraudCarpentras Serres - Tel : 04 90 60 80 92

A list of restaurant which have special

dishes with truffle, hotels and shops, is

available at the Tourist Information

Office of Carpentras.

THE BLACK TRUFFLE FAIROn every 1st sunday of februaryCome and discover “la rabasse” withinits soil surrounded by its traditions andpractices. An exhibition which givesgood vibrations to all of your five senses.aRégional and craft productsaTruffle hunting demonstrations with dogs and pigsaTruffle omelette tasting sessionsEvents, meetings...The place to go, the event of the truffleseason...