BERMUDA FIVE CENTURIESBERMUDA FIVE CENTURIESBY BY

ROSEMARY JONESROSEMARY JONES

CHAPTER 15CHAPTER 15

The New TourismThe New TourismADVENT OF AIR TRAVEL AND LUXURY CRUISESADVENT OF AIR TRAVEL AND LUXURY CRUISES

As such the First drastically World War neared its end, Bermuda’s tourism industry hit a major snag. Visitor numbers had been declining, and in 1917, Canadian Steamship Lines decided not to renew the island’s regular service, citing high costs and the not insignificant dangers of sailing in war-troubled waters.

Moreover, Bermudian, which had been kept on the New York-to-Bermuda route, was requisitioned in March that year as a British troop carrier. Suddenly, Bermuda had no way to export its agricultural goods or to bring in visitors. The island needed to attract another large shipping company.

In the summer of 1919, the New York arm of In the summer of 1919, the New York arm of British steamship company Furness WithyBritish steamship company Furness Withycame to the rescue, promising to refitcame to the rescue, promising to refitBermudianBermudian in return for a five-year, $15,000 in return for a five-year, $15,000annual subsidy from the island government.annual subsidy from the island government.The deal signed in June, marked the The deal signed in June, marked the beginning of a long and beginning of a long and mutuallymutually fruitful fruitful relationship between the island and Furness relationship between the island and Furness

thatthatwould continue until 1966.would continue until 1966.

By 1920, it was decided by governmentBy 1920, it was decided by government

and subsidiary Furness Bermuda Lineand subsidiary Furness Bermuda Line

officials that the answer to Bermuda’s tour-officials that the answer to Bermuda’s tour-

ism question lay in giving America’s rulingism question lay in giving America’s ruling

classes what they wanted – an classes what they wanted – an exclusiveexclusive

enclaveenclave where the mega-rich could rub where the mega-rich could rub

shoulders while they wintered in Bermuda.shoulders while they wintered in Bermuda.

All eyes eventually fell on Tucker’s Town, theAll eyes eventually fell on Tucker’s Town, thequiet peninsula community overlooking Castlequiet peninsula community overlooking CastleHarbour which had been named for GovernorHarbour which had been named for GovernorDaniel Tucker (whose early 17Daniel Tucker (whose early 17th th Century aim Century aim

totorelocate Bermuda’s capital there never went relocate Bermuda’s capital there never went ahead).ahead).

The plan envisioned a self-contained The plan envisioned a self-contained

neighbourhood of more than 500 acres forneighbourhood of more than 500 acres for

America’s aristocracy, complete with golf-America’s aristocracy, complete with golf-

courses, tennis courts, a country club, andcourses, tennis courts, a country club, and

hotels and cottages for both winter and hotels and cottages for both winter and

summer visitors.summer visitors.

Furness, led by local merchants, petitionedFurness, led by local merchants, petitioned

the government to buy the land and afterthe government to buy the land and after

lengthy lengthy negotiationsnegotiations, got the green light., got the green light.

The area had long been abandoned byThe area had long been abandoned by

most white families, but there remained amost white families, but there remained a

community of black farmers, boat-builders,community of black farmers, boat-builders,

and fishermen with two churches, a cricketand fishermen with two churches, a cricket

pitch, a school and a post office.pitch, a school and a post office.

During that time, the shipping company actedDuring that time, the shipping company actedas a partner in the business of Bermudaas a partner in the business of Bermudatourism, providing not only luxury liners suchtourism, providing not only luxury liners suchas as BermudaBermuda, , Monarch of BermudaMonarch of Bermuda and andQueen of BermudaQueen of Bermuda to bring thousands of to bring thousands of visitors, but also investing in capital projectsvisitors, but also investing in capital projectssuch as new hotels to modernise the island’ssuch as new hotels to modernise the island’sinfrastructure. Above all, Furness helped generallyinfrastructure. Above all, Furness helped generally to hone Bermuda’s image as an upscale resort—to hone Bermuda’s image as an upscale resort— a “Mid-Ocean Playground”– that would attract thea “Mid-Ocean Playground”– that would attract thetype of American visitor who would fuel the type of American visitor who would fuel the

island’sisland’seconomy throughout the 20economy throughout the 20thth century. century.

A group of 24 angry residents petitioned theA group of 24 angry residents petitioned thegovernment to stay on their land, thoughgovernment to stay on their land, thoughmany Bermudians, excited by the prospectmany Bermudians, excited by the prospectof a post-war tourism revival, were in favourof a post-war tourism revival, were in favourof the project. The black landownersof the project. The black landownersultimately lost their fight to keep their ultimately lost their fight to keep their

Tucker’sTucker’sTown properties. Under a special act, theTown properties. Under a special act, thehold-outs had their land forcibly taken; inhold-outs had their land forcibly taken; inreturn they were paid market value or offeredreturn they were paid market value or offeredhomes in other parishes.homes in other parishes.

The last objector was a woman by the name The last objector was a woman by the name

of Dinna Smith, who was physically of Dinna Smith, who was physically evictedevicted

in 1923 and moved to Smith’s Parish.in 1923 and moved to Smith’s Parish.

Before long, the elegant homes ofBefore long, the elegant homes of

millionaires crowded Tucker’s Town,millionaires crowded Tucker’s Town,

surrounding the 18-hole golf-course of thesurrounding the 18-hole golf-course of the

exclusive Mid-Ocean Club.exclusive Mid-Ocean Club.

Baseball legend Babe Ruth was photo-Baseball legend Babe Ruth was photo-graphed playing the links, one of many starsgraphed playing the links, one of many starswho helped boost Bermuda’s who helped boost Bermuda’s moniedmonied image, image,including scientist Albert Einstein, actorincluding scientist Albert Einstein, actorHarpo Marx, composer Irving Berlin and Harpo Marx, composer Irving Berlin and child movie star Shirley Temple. Touristchild movie star Shirley Temple. Touristarrivals flourished in the next few years asarrivals flourished in the next few years asother Americans followed the lead of theirother Americans followed the lead of theirsuper-rich countrymen.super-rich countrymen.

Suddenly Bermuda was the place to be, and not justSuddenly Bermuda was the place to be, and not just

in the winter time.in the winter time.

Furness, meantime began investing in the island’sFurness, meantime began investing in the island’s

hotels. The company bought the St. George’s Hotel inhotels. The company bought the St. George’s Hotel in

1921, and the Bermudiana in Hamilton three years later.1921, and the Bermudiana in Hamilton three years later.

But its flagship property would be the Castle Harbour, But its flagship property would be the Castle Harbour, which,which,

with a golf-course, docks, and beaches, demanded awith a golf-course, docks, and beaches, demanded a

massive labour force that resulted in the recruitment ofmassive labour force that resulted in the recruitment of

600 Azorean contractors.600 Azorean contractors.

The project took two years and on November 30,The project took two years and on November 30,1931, Governor Lieutenant-General Sir Thomas1931, Governor Lieutenant-General Sir ThomasAstley Cubitt opened the 400-room hotel, the Astley Cubitt opened the 400-room hotel, the

latestlateststar in Bermuda’s expanding tourism star in Bermuda’s expanding tourism firmamentfirmament.. Tourism’ was truly coming of age. With theTourism’ was truly coming of age. With thehorrors of the Great War behind them, westernhorrors of the Great War behind them, westernsocieties embraced the new freedom andsocieties embraced the new freedom andaffluence, which, with the advent of modernisedaffluence, which, with the advent of modernisedtransport, led to a whole new breed of traveller.transport, led to a whole new breed of traveller.

Throughout the 1920’s and ’30s, the wholeThroughout the 1920’s and ’30s, the whole

concept of travel would evolve—from aconcept of travel would evolve—from a

solitary pursuit to a collective mentalitysolitary pursuit to a collective mentality

shaped by careful marketing that created shaped by careful marketing that created

and sold Bermuda to the world at large.and sold Bermuda to the world at large.

Along with its relaxed lifestyle andAlong with its relaxed lifestyle and

pretty pretty aestheticaesthetic, Bermuda lured American, Bermuda lured American

visitors with yet another advantage: alcohol.visitors with yet another advantage: alcohol.

Prohibition – a US policy banning liquorProhibition – a US policy banning liquor

sale or consumption – stretched from 1919sale or consumption – stretched from 1919

to 1933, and like their predecessorsto 1933, and like their predecessors

throughout the centuries, Bermudian entre-throughout the centuries, Bermudian entre-

preneurs were not about to miss a lucrativepreneurs were not about to miss a lucrative

opportunity.opportunity.

Rum-runners used the island as a trans-Rum-runners used the island as a trans-shipment headquarters to smuggle liquorshipment headquarters to smuggle liquorinto the States. But tourists were notinto the States. But tourists were notcomplaining; in the face of a ‘dry’ America,complaining; in the face of a ‘dry’ America,they turned to Bermuda, where during thethey turned to Bermuda, where during the1920s, bars, restaurants and hotels had1920s, bars, restaurants and hotels hadbecome, according to a British associate ofbecome, according to a British associate ofthe Trade Development Board, “one the Trade Development Board, “one

continualcontinualcarousalcarousal.”.”

On April Fool’s Day, 1930, a seaplaneOn April Fool’s Day, 1930, a seaplane

carrying three Americans left New York Citycarrying three Americans left New York City

on what would later be hailed as anon what would later be hailed as an

““epochalepochal flight.” The Stinson cabin mono- flight.” The Stinson cabin mono-

plane powered by a 300 horsepower Wrightplane powered by a 300 horsepower Wright

engine, would become the first airplane toengine, would become the first airplane to

cross the 666 miles of water betweencross the 666 miles of water between

North America and Bermuda.North America and Bermuda.

Its three crew, navigator Captain LewisIts three crew, navigator Captain Lewis

Yancey, pilot William Alexander and radioYancey, pilot William Alexander and radio

engineer Zeh Bouck, made history atengineer Zeh Bouck, made history at

1O o’clock the following morning, a1O o’clock the following morning, a

Wednesday, when they swooped down forWednesday, when they swooped down for

a landing on Hamilton Harbour aboard thea landing on Hamilton Harbour aboard the

Pilot Radio.Pilot Radio. It had not been the smoothest It had not been the smoothest

flight.flight.

The trio had departed New York at 9:39 a.m.The trio had departed New York at 9:39 a.m.

the previous day, expecting to reach the islandthe previous day, expecting to reach the island

in eight hours. But strong winds delayed themin eight hours. But strong winds delayed them

and they decided to land and spend the nightand they decided to land and spend the night

at sea rather than risk missing Bermudaat sea rather than risk missing Bermuda

completely in the darkness. At one minute to sixcompletely in the darkness. At one minute to six

that evening, they had set the plane down 60that evening, they had set the plane down 60

miles north of the island, notifying the New Yorkmiles north of the island, notifying the New York

Times of their decision. Times of their decision.

The Canadian National Steamship Line’sThe Canadian National Steamship Line’s

Lady Somers, en route to Halifax, turnedLady Somers, en route to Halifax, turned

back to offer the plane assistance, but back to offer the plane assistance, but whenwhen

it found the trio in no difficulty, the linerit found the trio in no difficulty, the liner

continued its trans-Atlantic journey ascontinued its trans-Atlantic journey as

scheduled.scheduled.

Early the next morning, pilot AlexanderEarly the next morning, pilot Alexandertook off again, braving the heavy swells intook off again, braving the heavy swells inwhat the Bermudian magazine would laterwhat the Bermudian magazine would laterdescribe as “a great feat of airmanship.”describe as “a great feat of airmanship.”At 6:30 a.m., ebbing fuel forced the planeAt 6:30 a.m., ebbing fuel forced the planedown once again, this time just four milesdown once again, this time just four milesoff the island. The three Americans swappedoff the island. The three Americans swappedgasoline between the plane’s various tanks gasoline between the plane’s various tanks

and and managed to make another take off.managed to make another take off.

Finally, after five more minutes ofFinally, after five more minutes of

flying, the pioneering Pilot Radio came flying, the pioneering Pilot Radio came downdown

in Murray’s Anchorage, off St. George’s.in Murray’s Anchorage, off St. George’s.

After refuelling, the plane, carrying aAfter refuelling, the plane, carrying a

handful of local VIPs including Tradehandful of local VIPs including Trade

Development Board chairman John “J.P.”Development Board chairman John “J.P.”

Hand, flew down the South Shore andHand, flew down the South Shore and

finally came to a triumphant stop on finally came to a triumphant stop on thethe

Hamilton waterfront. Their Hamilton waterfront. Their maverickmaverick

journey won the trio $1,000 each andjourney won the trio $1,000 each and

headlines around the globe.headlines around the globe.

The race now began to bring the firstThe race now began to bring the first

visitors by air. There had been a shortvisitors by air. There had been a short

aviation company in Bermuda in 1919 aviation company in Bermuda in 1919

offering charters to fly over the island, butoffering charters to fly over the island, but

the first air arrival did not occur until 1926,the first air arrival did not occur until 1926,

when an American dirigible, an airshipwhen an American dirigible, an airship

named Los Angeles, made a long, slownamed Los Angeles, made a long, slow

journey to the island, journey to the island, buffetedbuffeted by high winds. by high winds.

It was Charles Lindberg’s trail blazing soloIt was Charles Lindberg’s trail blazing solo

flight across the Atlantic the following yearflight across the Atlantic the following year

that ignited a new that ignited a new fervourfervour for aviation; the for aviation; the

glamour and novelty of airplanes attractedglamour and novelty of airplanes attracted

rapt media coverage and public interest.rapt media coverage and public interest.

It would be years before commercial It would be years before commercial

airliners braved the distance from the Americanairliners braved the distance from the American

mainland, but the Bermuda governmentmainland, but the Bermuda government

realised the potential and in July 1927, therealised the potential and in July 1927, the

Trade Development Board offered £2,000Trade Development Board offered £2,000

to the first non-stop flight from America in to the first non-stop flight from America in

the next four months. No one claimed the the next four months. No one claimed the

prize.prize.

Nine months after Pilot Radio’s Nine months after Pilot Radio’s

expedition, floatplane successfully expedition, floatplane successfully

completed the journey without a hitch.completed the journey without a hitch.

On Wednesday, January 7, 1931, theOn Wednesday, January 7, 1931, the

Bellanca seaplane Tradewind, piloted byBellanca seaplane Tradewind, piloted by

Beryl Hart and navigated by LieutenantBeryl Hart and navigated by Lieutenant

William S. MacLaren, flew from Norfolk,William S. MacLaren, flew from Norfolk,

Virginia to Bermuda in about seven hours.Virginia to Bermuda in about seven hours.

It marked the first leg of “a journeyIt marked the first leg of “a journey

calculated to demonstrate the commercialcalculated to demonstrate the commercial

possibilities of trans-Atlantic flight possibilities of trans-Atlantic flight betweenbetween

America and Europe, with Bermuda andAmerica and Europe, with Bermuda and

the Azores as intermediate refuellingthe Azores as intermediate refuelling

points,” according to The points,” according to The BermudianBermudian..

Unfortunately, Hart and MacLaren neverUnfortunately, Hart and MacLaren never

Lived to see that dream become reality.Lived to see that dream become reality.

After a celebration in Bermuda, theyAfter a celebration in Bermuda, they

departed for the Azores – and were neverdeparted for the Azores – and were never

seen again.seen again.

Such early pioneers paved the way forSuch early pioneers paved the way for

the coming travel revolution. Anticipatingthe coming travel revolution. Anticipating

the new era on the horizon, Bermuda’sthe new era on the horizon, Bermuda’s

Assembly voted in 1934 to Assembly voted in 1934 to subsidisesubsidise a a

seaplane base at Darrell’s Island – a seaplane base at Darrell’s Island – a preludeprelude

to a deal signed by Pan American Airwaysto a deal signed by Pan American Airways

and Imperial Airways that year to establishand Imperial Airways that year to establish

a New York-Bermuda passenger and maila New York-Bermuda passenger and mail

service. Finally, on June 12, 1937, the firstservice. Finally, on June 12, 1937, the first

Empire-class flying boat, Imperial’s CavalierEmpire-class flying boat, Imperial’s Cavalier

left the Great Sound (where it had beenleft the Great Sound (where it had been

assembled) for Port Washington, Longassembled) for Port Washington, Long

Island. Almost simultaneously, Pan Am’sIsland. Almost simultaneously, Pan Am’s

Clipper touched down at Darrell’s IslandClipper touched down at Darrell’s Island

after completing the same flight in theafter completing the same flight in the

opposite direction. Bermuda found itselfopposite direction. Bermuda found itself

in the in the vanguardvanguard of trans-Atlantic air travel. of trans-Atlantic air travel.

Tourist air arrivals began in earnestTourist air arrivals began in earnest

over the next few years as both airlinesover the next few years as both airlines

launched regular services to the island launched regular services to the island

aboard luxurious passenger flying-boats.aboard luxurious passenger flying-boats.

Not only was the new mode of transportNot only was the new mode of transportquick and easy – five hours as opposed toquick and easy – five hours as opposed to40 during a three-day steam from New York40 during a three-day steam from New York but it also gave Bermudians a spectacular –but it also gave Bermudians a spectacular –aerial view of the island few had seenaerial view of the island few had seenbefore. “Around the reefs swirl whorls ofbefore. “Around the reefs swirl whorls ofblue water in all the shades from turquoise, blue water in all the shades from turquoise,

jadejadeand emerald to aquamarine, cobalt and and emerald to aquamarine, cobalt and

PrussianPrussianblue.”blue.”

wrote the Bermudian editor Ronald wrote the Bermudian editor Ronald WilliamsWilliams

on the Cavalier’s inaugural flight. “ Soon the Cavalier’s inaugural flight. “ So

breathtaking is the sight that like every breathtaking is the sight that like every

other man on board the flying boat I amother man on board the flying boat I am

desperately aware that adequate desperately aware that adequate descriptiondescription

is beyond me.”is beyond me.”

Tragically, the Cavalier went down inTragically, the Cavalier went down in

the Gulf Stream in 1939 during its 290the Gulf Stream in 1939 during its 290thth

scheduled trip to Bermuda, killing three ofscheduled trip to Bermuda, killing three of

it 13 passengers and crew. But the clock it 13 passengers and crew. But the clock

could not be turned back. American could not be turned back. American

travellers for the most part had faith in the travellers for the most part had faith in the

safety of the seaplanes and visitor numbers safety of the seaplanes and visitor numbers

began their predicted upswing by 1937, thebegan their predicted upswing by 1937, the

island welcomed more than 82,000 touristsisland welcomed more than 82,000 tourists

a year aboard planes and cruise ships, a year aboard planes and cruise ships,

compared to just 13,000 in 1920.compared to just 13,000 in 1920.

Bermuda was well on its way into the ageBermuda was well on its way into the age

of aviation.of aviation.

It was Halloween, 1931, when a ceremonyIt was Halloween, 1931, when a ceremony

outside Number One Shed in Hamilton set inoutside Number One Shed in Hamilton set in

motion a short-lived, but beloved additionmotion a short-lived, but beloved addition

To Bermuda’s landscape that becameTo Bermuda’s landscape that became

dubbed “Old Rattle and Shake.” Some 150dubbed “Old Rattle and Shake.” Some 150

Invited guests gathered on Front Street toInvited guests gathered on Front Street to

take part in the take part in the inauguralinaugural run of the run of the

Bermuda Railway to Somerset. The Bermuda Railway to Somerset. The dignitariesdignitaries

including the governor and his wife, including the governor and his wife,

British Royal Naval officials, the AmericanBritish Royal Naval officials, the American

consul, the police chief and the bishop ofconsul, the police chief and the bishop of

Bermuda – climbed aboard four coachesBermuda – climbed aboard four coaches

and waited excitedly. Crowds of and waited excitedly. Crowds of spectatorsspectators

lined the sidewalk and leaned over shoplined the sidewalk and leaned over shop

balconies as Lady Cubitt entered the balconies as Lady Cubitt entered the train’strain’s

motor motor compartmentcompartment and pressed the and pressed the

engine’s electric starter. The train, whichengine’s electric starter. The train, which

would be described by one journalist aswould be described by one journalist as

““an iron serpent in the Garden of Eden,”an iron serpent in the Garden of Eden,”

rolled into action.rolled into action.

The fanfare had been a long time The fanfare had been a long time

coming. As far back as 1899, the railwaycoming. As far back as 1899, the railway

idea had been proposed, but it was notidea had been proposed, but it was not

until the 1920’s that plans began to takeuntil the 1920’s that plans began to take

shape. The privately-financed Bermudashape. The privately-financed Bermuda

Railway built the line from Somerset toRailway built the line from Somerset to

St. George’s, through Hamilton, amid a St. George’s, through Hamilton, amid a slewslew

of problems, controversies and delays.of problems, controversies and delays.

When the 22-mile line opened on OctoberWhen the 22-mile line opened on October

31, it was already three years late, but31, it was already three years late, but

Bermudians embraced it as a huge stepBermudians embraced it as a huge step

forward on an island where motor carsforward on an island where motor cars

were banned and transportation betweenwere banned and transportation between

parishes had, until then, been restricted parishes had, until then, been restricted toto

boats, carriage or bicycle along primitive boats, carriage or bicycle along primitive

roads.roads.

The train by contrast, offeredThe train by contrast, offered

all-weather comfort, travelling the lengthall-weather comfort, travelling the length

of Bermuda via 33 bridges which linked theof Bermuda via 33 bridges which linked the

islands and crossed the coastal inlets.islands and crossed the coastal inlets.

Once aboard, passengers got a whole viewOnce aboard, passengers got a whole view

of Bermuda. Service was racially of Bermuda. Service was racially segre-segre-

gatedgated. The train’s first-class coaches offered. The train’s first-class coaches offered

wicker chairs, while benches were provided wicker chairs, while benches were provided forfor

cheaper seats. Locals could now easilycheaper seats. Locals could now easily

commute to work in Hamilton, and touristscommute to work in Hamilton, and tourists

could load on their bicycles ready to usecould load on their bicycles ready to use

once they reached their destination.once they reached their destination.

Unfortunately, the railway glory daysUnfortunately, the railway glory days

were soon to be over. Bermuda’s climatewere soon to be over. Bermuda’s climate

corroded the train’s iron parts and the costcorroded the train’s iron parts and the cost

of importing diesel fuel was exorbitant.of importing diesel fuel was exorbitant.

Wartime use by the military also left theWartime use by the military also left the

line and rolling stock in poor shape.line and rolling stock in poor shape.

Engineers also discovered the railwayEngineers also discovered the railway

needed extensive, and expensive, repairsneeded extensive, and expensive, repairs

totalling an estimated £1 million.totalling an estimated £1 million.

Eventually, the Bermuda governmentEventually, the Bermuda government

stepped in and bought the railway, which hadstepped in and bought the railway, which had

never made a profit, for a mere $115,000.never made a profit, for a mere $115,000.

They operated the line at a loss for a whileThey operated the line at a loss for a while

time before finally selling the whole time before finally selling the whole

operation to British Guyana. The longoperation to British Guyana. The long

delayed advent of the automobiles todelayed advent of the automobiles to

Bermuda after the Second World War alsoBermuda after the Second World War also

helped put the nail in the railway’s coffinhelped put the nail in the railway’s coffin

and just after 17 years in operation, Oldand just after 17 years in operation, Old

Rattle and Shake was no more.Rattle and Shake was no more.

The impact of changes brought about The impact of changes brought about

Surging post-war tourism, modern modesSurging post-war tourism, modern modes

of transport, new hotels and new –fangledof transport, new hotels and new –fangled

technology during these years was keenlytechnology during these years was keenly

felt by everyday Bermudians. Many fearedfelt by everyday Bermudians. Many feared

the quickening speed of modern life andthe quickening speed of modern life and

resented the steady invasion of foreigners.resented the steady invasion of foreigners.

Even those who realized change was Even those who realized change was

inevitableinevitable worried the new pressures on worried the new pressures on thethe

island could quickly erase the quaintisland could quickly erase the quaint

character that had made Bermuda character that had made Bermuda uniqueunique..

“ “If she continues her progressive paceIf she continues her progressive pace

the pleasant slogan stamped on outgoingthe pleasant slogan stamped on outgoing

mail – “come to the Isles of Rest -- maymail – “come to the Isles of Rest -- may

soon become a quaint joke,” commentedsoon become a quaint joke,” commented

Hudson Strode in his book, The Story ofHudson Strode in his book, The Story of

Bermuda published in 1932. “The Bermudi-Bermuda published in 1932. “The Bermudi-

ans themselves are more or less dazed byans themselves are more or less dazed by

the rapid development in their little country.the rapid development in their little country.

Those few not in trade and those notThose few not in trade and those not

owning houses to rent to Americans areowning houses to rent to Americans are

justified in resenting tourists, for the justified in resenting tourists, for the IslandsIslands

stand perilously in danger of becomingstand perilously in danger of becoming

merely the rich American’s playground merely the rich American’s playground andand

the ‘tripper’s delight.’ American gold isthe ‘tripper’s delight.’ American gold is

tempting and progress tempting and progress insidiousinsidious. .

And ‘progress’ continued. On DecemberAnd ‘progress’ continued. On December

21, 1931, the Bermuda Telephone Company21, 1931, the Bermuda Telephone Company

opened its new automatic telephoneopened its new automatic telephone

exchange. A series of conversations tookexchange. A series of conversations took

place between Washington DC and Bermudaplace between Washington DC and Bermuda

to commemorate the milestone – with theto commemorate the milestone – with the

governor sending greetings to the undergovernor sending greetings to the under

secretary of state, and the American secretary of state, and the American consulconsul

in Bermuda exchanging pleasantries within Bermuda exchanging pleasantries with

the British ambassador in Washington. the British ambassador in Washington. TheThe

dial telephone would replace the centraldial telephone would replace the central

system between 1932-1933.system between 1932-1933.

Another project that garnered publicAnother project that garnered public

interest and debate was the so-calledinterest and debate was the so-called

““Watlington Waterworks” project in whichWatlington Waterworks” project in which

Hamilton Mayor Sir Harry Watlington Hamilton Mayor Sir Harry Watlington tappedtapped

into a natural lens in a Devonshire hillsideinto a natural lens in a Devonshire hillside

in a bid to alleviate the island’s perennialin a bid to alleviate the island’s perennial

water shortage. Pipelines were laid inwater shortage. Pipelines were laid in

Hamilton and construction began on a Hamilton and construction began on a

purification plant with a reservoir capacitypurification plant with a reservoir capacity

of 240,000 gallons, allowing residents andof 240,000 gallons, allowing residents and

businesses to purchase water during timesbusinesses to purchase water during times

of drought when their own water tanks ranof drought when their own water tanks ran

dry. It became the island’s first public waterdry. It became the island’s first public water

system.system.

Bermuda’s improving facilities andBermuda’s improving facilities and

increasing attraction to tourists insulatedincreasing attraction to tourists insulated

the island from the Depression when mostthe island from the Depression when most

parts of America and Europe were sufferingparts of America and Europe were suffering

from the economic and social castastrophe.from the economic and social castastrophe.

The island’s allure as an unspoiledThe island’s allure as an unspoiled

““Fairyland” stayed intact throughout theFairyland” stayed intact throughout the

1930s – a testament to the painstaking 1930s – a testament to the painstaking ‘branding’‘branding’

of Bermuda as an elite escape.of Bermuda as an elite escape.

Yet just as all signs pointed to unstoppableYet just as all signs pointed to unstoppable

success for the island’s tourist trade, asuccess for the island’s tourist trade, a

dark cloud was just around the corner. dark cloud was just around the corner.

The Second World War would wreak havocThe Second World War would wreak havoc

on Bermuda’s tourism aspirations andon Bermuda’s tourism aspirations and

bring both personal triumph and tradegy tobring both personal triumph and tradegy to

island families and their relatives. But itisland families and their relatives. But it

would also change Bermuda as never before,would also change Bermuda as never before,

hurling the island from the idyllic isolation it hurling the island from the idyllic isolation it hadhad

embraced for centuries, and into the modern embraced for centuries, and into the modern

world.world.