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Berlin Baby - Winter Edition

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Citytravelreview.co.uk and Curso24.de: Berlin Baby Winter Edition - Book from the Berlin winter programme - journalism and language learning in Berlin and Edinburgh.

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DESIGNBY:RANVIR SINGH BASSIWWW.RANBASSI.COM

Introduction

History

Books/Films

Itinieries

East/West Viewpoints

Museums

ShoppingShopping

Art

Fast Food

Restaurants

Nightlife

Sport

Christmas

HostelsHostels

Contributers Page

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The slogan beloved in recent times by Barack Obama and Bob the builder: ‘Yes we can’, amply applies to Berlin. ‘The Berlin Dream’, a city where the desire to do something makes it a legitimate option. Start a business? Why not? Graffiti a picture of a former Soviet leader and an ex President of East Berlin leader and an ex President of East Berlin kissing? Ok. Outrage is just another opinion and nothing too alarming. Failure is a possibility but an occupational hazard.

Fittingly, there are plenty of wholesome or unwholesome activities on offer in this diverse metropolis according to your predilections. So capitalise on capitalise on your vices; whether they involve alcoholic beverages or historical shenanigans you’ll find yourself gluttonously satiated here.

If the chance avails you it’s worth speaking to as many locals as you can, Berlin contains a wealth of different nationalities and they all have a story to tell -just make sure you want to hear it. to hear it.

Berlin is lived in, like a well worn slipper, so if the shoe fits you’ll have a great time here. And if not, you’ll likely retain a part of Berlin with you anyway. So ‘Prost’ my companions: to you, Berlin and the enthusiasm to explore; after all what have you got to lose?

Berlin, Berlin

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HistoryIt would be presumptuous to say I am a Berliner, or that this city holds as much importance for me as it did the late John F. Kennedy, and yet it has a certain allure that I have succumbed to. The need to know Berlin between the Currywurst stands and the beautiful parliamentary buildings. Down at the closest level, scrutinising the minutiae of what it means to be somewhere limeans to be somewhere like this with knowledge of a past like that.

For in truth we all know that politically insane wannabe artist Adolf Hitler and his morbid fascination with blond haired blue eyed demi gods. Most even know something of the wall, if only because of David Hasslehoffs ardent and enthusiastic ambitions to please a large crowd there. We are innocently learned, though in truth clueless, merely curious, what is it learned, though in truth clueless, merely curious, what is it about Berlin that people love?

Last years film release of the Baader-Meinhof Complex, a must see, and the twentieth anniversary of the fall of that concrete behemouth in 2009 have reinspired in those overseas a desire to find out, so whats eating Berlin these days?

From Empires to Territories to Nation State, 800Ad to 1900:

Germany only became the unified mass we now understand it to be in 1871. Its painful transition from Empires to territories to Nation state is as complicated as it is laborious. So are you sitting comfortably? Then lets begin. In 800Ad Germalets begin. In 800Ad Germany and France were ruled together in what was known as the Frankish Empire. After the break-up of the Frankish Empire in 843AD, Germany found recognition as a separate entity, before exercising authority as the central power in the Holy Roman Empire.

After a brief flirtation with the Hapsburg Dynasty, and an ean excruciating 30years war in 1648 is it proclaimed that Germany is made up of individual territorial states as laid down in the Treaty of Westphalia.

The 1800’s were made even livelier by Napoleon's soiree around the European continent and his declaration of French Rule over a large portion of Germany. The smack was laid down on this upstart in 1813, and he was defeated at the battle of Leipzig. defeated at the battle of Leipzig.

An attempt to Unite Germany as one territory was made in 1848, but failed to come to fruition, only with the assent of Otto Von Bismark in 1871 does Germany achieve Unification under Prussia. An elected Parliament is established -“the Reichstag”- though a Kaiser wields chief powers.

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The angsty years: 1900 to present day

Now to the 1900’s and the murder of Archduke Franz Ferdinand in Austria-Hungary that sparked the first world war. Germany's alliance with Austria meant that it effectively supported the countrys retaliatory action, resulting in Russia and Germany going to war. Due to international agreements the the war proliferated between several different nations.

After the copious bloodshed ceases in 1918 Germany is forced by the international community to give up its colonies, pay reparations and limit its military. We can only imagine then the devastation of the Wall Street Crash on this severly indebted State. Thus is Germany broken, humiliated and politically vulnerable.

Hence we witness the rise of the infamous man with the Hence we witness the rise of the infamous man with the moustache, Adolf Hitler who in 1933 is made Chancellor and then goes on to execute, murder, alienate and enforce the migration of millions and millions of German Citizens amongst others.

Defeated once again in World War II Germany is divided and becomes four territories presided over by the Soviets, the Americans, the French and the British. Americans, the French and the British.

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The latter three form the Federal Republic of Germany while the Soviet entity is titled the German Democratic Republic.

In 1961 the Berlin Wall is constructed by an East Germany that refuses to negotiate with the West until it becomes socialist. Therefore allied owned West Berlin is made an island behind the ‘Iron Curtainisland behind the ‘Iron Curtain’, wholly surrounded by Soviet territories. When Hungary and other eastern bloc countries relax their borders the wall is destabilised, with the inception of mass human unrest it is finally torn down in 1989; Berlin and Germany breath again.

In 1991 Berlin is named the capital of the country, and in 1994 all foreign troops leave German soil. Skip to the modern dmodern day and Germany has just re-elected its first Female Chancellor, Angela Merkel and escaped with only 9months of official economic recession. Though it’s worth remembering that the city of Berlin itself still struggles with horrific debt as a remnant of its divided years.

Berlin noticeably wears the scars of its tumultuous past but has emerged as a place that feels alive, grateful and alalways growing. So what’s eating Berlin these days? Nothing you could say, there is Klein Problem here my friend.

To get into the spirit of all things Berlin, it may be apt and fun to watch a few German films:

‘Die Vorleser’ ‘The Reader’ begins in post WW2 Germany when Michael Berg, a sickly teenager, is helped home by Hanna, a stranger twice his age. The two are quickly pulled into a passionate and mysterious affaiaffair. However, Hanna disappears suddenly, leaving Michael heartbroken. Eight years later, Michael observes a Nazi crime trial and is shocked to find Hanna as the defendant. As Hanna’s past is revealed, Michael discovers a deep secret that has implications for both their lives.

‘Die Fetten Jahre sind Vorbei’ ‘The Edukators’ is a film centred around three unruly centred around three unruly youths who together have a passion to change the world. Jan and Peter warn the local rich that “their days of plenty are numbered” by entering their houses unobserved and causing havoc. One break-in goes wrong and an unintended kidnapping forces the idealists to confront the values of the generation in power.

‘Lola Rennt’ ‘Run Lola Run’ is a thriller set in Berlin. Drug dealer Mani has 20 minutes to locate 100,000 DM or face certain death at the hands of a local criminal. Mani phones his girlfriend Lola, who runs to the bank owned by her father with the hope of getting money. The story pans out and Lola dies at the hands of the police. The narLola dies at the hands of the police. The narrative then begins again and again – ending differently each time. If you’re familiar with the film you’ll notice some of the real life settings in Berlin, most noticeably the Oberbaum Bridge and Bebelplatz.

‘Sophie Scholl – die letzten Tage’ ‘Sophie Scholl – the last days’ is the true story of a prominent anti-Nazi heroine. Sophie is the couNazi heroine. Sophie is the courageous activist of the underground student resistance group, The White Rose. She is arrested by the Gestapo, but remains unwavering in her commitment to freedom.

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Would like to read

Part of the excitement of planning a trip is the joy of anticipation, so get yourself into the vibes of Berlin and its larger partner Germany with these fascinating volumes.

‘Alone in Berlin’, Hans Fallada translated by Michael Hofmann. Based in the Second Michael Hofmann. Based in the Second World War, this rather weighty read is an epic tale of two individuals who start to write anti fascist postcards after the death of their son. Their resistance escalates a tale of retaliation that unfolds horrifically and grippingly. Despite the incredibly serious subject matter the book is written in an endearing and engaging sendearing and engaging style. I literally stayed up all night huddled over this novel, and felt chilled at its conclusion. Translated into English only this year, it is a must, in terms of literary achievement and as an attempt to understand the hysteria of a different time and place. An effective, evocative, wholly compulsive read; it is important to come to Berlin with a knowledge of this ciBerlin with a knowledge of this city’s many faces and you’ll find one side exposed by Fallada.

Books to get you in the mood

The Berlin Novels’, Christopher Isherwood. This collection brings together Isherwood’s ‘Mr Norris Changes Trains’, and ‘Goodbye Berlin’ – the book on which the musical/film ‘Cabaret’ is based. With all the humour and observational detachment of an Englishman, Isherwood sEnglishman, Isherwood sketches out a life in Berlin filled with shady characters and shadier establishments. The novel is composed in a lilting, melodic style that leaves the reader succumbing to the freewheeling joy of 1930’s Berlin.

As the decade unfolds, the threat to these liberties becomes more obvious, finally forcing the narrator, and Isherwood to return home. Exacerbating the and Isherwood to return home. Exacerbating the sadness of saying goodbye to Sally Bowles, Mr Norris and a certain innocence Berlin would go on to lose, the temporal nature of these meetings lends the book a melancholic force that lingers on after the tale is done.

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‘City Lit: Berlin’,

Heather Reyes and Katy Derbyshire. A smashing collection of short stories published to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the fall of the wall. Each tale possesses a flavour that evaporates, leleaving something unmistakably Berliner behind. A fabulous introduction to each author’s writing and to the feel, smell and culture of this city’s plethora of different districts and personalities. Supplying an enjoyable, snatched view inside the psyche of a sprawling, living beast, gbeast, grab a copy and peruse on the plane over. Includes works by writers such as Ian McEwan, John Simpson and Joseph Roth amongst others.

Lutz Recommends:

Straight from the horse’s mouth so to speak, these recommendations proffer German writings finest figures as according to one of its own sons: + ‘Herr Lehmann’, by Sven Regener + ‘Schoenhauser Allee’ by Wladimir Kaminer + ‘Sonnenallee’ or + ‘Sonnenallee’ or ‘Am Anderen Ende des Sonnen Allee’, by Thomas Brussig + ‘Das Leben des Anderen’ by Florian Henckel von Donnersmarch.Widely available in German, for those with Deutsch skills, these books can be purchased in English via major book outlets.

Dussman Bookshop:Dussman Bookshop: (U Friedrichstrasse)

On the top floor of this massive bookshop you’ll find a foreign language section that boasts a good selection of texts in English. It caters chiefly for those individuals with historical tastes and those who prefer their material far more fictional. You’ll be sure to find a book for those quiet moments, perfect accompanied perfect accompanied by a massive cappuccino and a furrowed brow. Very you darling.

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Berlin! She is an attention seeker I know, but for the budgeting student juggling time between studies and Christmas leisure, it is possible to get your bearings and experience a lot of what this beautiful city has to offer by the end of one weekend.

A Weekend In BerlinDay 1: Saturday1. A great starting point is Checkpoint Charlie on the corner of Friedrichstrasse and Zimmerstrasse. Here you can read up on your history of this Cold War landmark, displayed down a long wall across the intersection. Or have a typical tourist photo taken with the guards, but be careful as they may charge you a small fee.

2. 100m down you will pass a large four-storey, square concrete building. Although today it just looks lijust looks like an ordinary building, in history terms, it is actually the building where Hitler attended his first political meeting with the German Workers Party (Deutsche Arbeiterpartei) and preached the basis for his ideas, leading to the formation of the Nazi party.

3. Also on Zimmerstrasse, there is the option of inexpensive bicycle hire at the Nextbike shed in front of the “Die Welt” balloon. Simply choose a bike and call the customer hotline 030 6920546. Prices are cheap and flexible with bicycle rental costing 1 euro/hr, 5 euros/3hrs or 10 euro/24 hrs. Berlin is a very cycle-friendly city and seeing the sights with the wind in yyour hair is becoming an increasingly popular way to experience a day in Berlin, all year round.

4. For the history buffs, the Topography of Terror exhibition provides some excellent reading material and photographs on the vocation and brutal conducts of the SS Gestapo during Nazi reign (See Museums Section).

5. Potsdamer Platz Square is an area that has not long been rebuilt, following ample devastation during the Second World War. The square was left desolate during the Cold War, due to its disection from the Wall, but has now been fashioned into a pictogram of ‘a new BerlinBerlin’. Here there are various shops, cafes and restaurants where you can enjoy your first German doner kebab for lunch. Alternatively, for some cheap traditional German cuisine, order a ‘sauerkraut’ from Café Lebensant on Stressmanstrasse across the road from Tiergarten Park. To put it simply, it is a tasty sausage, bacon and potato creation. Wow.

6. At the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, take some time to reflect and wander through the 4.7 acre site, covered with 2,711 concrete slabs arranged in a grid pattern on a sloping field. According to the designer, Peter Eisenman's project text, the slabs are designed to produce an uneasto produce an uneasy, confusing atmosphere, and the whole sculpture aims to represent ‘a supposedly ordered system that has lost touch with human reason’.

7. If you’re lucky with the weather and enjoy a good view, it is worth first stopping over at the Reichstag and taking yourself on an audio guided tour that will orientate you within the building and the city itself. Make your way up the looping platform for a stunning 360 degree panoramic view over Berlin.

8. Take your time to stand back and admire the Brandenburg Gate, the city’s proudest and most iconic structure. If iconic structure. If you pass through you will be standing on Unter den Linden, a key avenue in Berlin that strikes through the city centre and links the East to the West. In the winter, elaborate Christmas decorations dazzle all who meander along this prominent lane.

9. A wander down Friedrichstrasse in the latter months of the year will take you to Gendarmen Markt, where you can try a hot mug of gluhwein. From late November to late December, the Christmas market here is considered to be one of the more timeless markets in the city, characterized by its romantic white tents. Alternatively all year round, just behind the market, yyou can find the renowned chocolatarie, Fassbender & Rausch, particularly well known for its hot chocolate, prepared from Rausch plantation cocoa.

10. In the evening consider taking part in an organized pub crawl for just 12 euros with either New Berlin Tours or Sandeman Tours. You will be taken to five popular clubs within the city and meet lots of like-minded young party-goers while benefiting from special drink deals throughout the night. 13

Day 2: Sunday

A morning spent carving a path by the waters of the River Spree is a great way to wind down at the end of the weekend. As Berlin’s main river, it spills north and south of the city and winds through a number of magnificent parks.

1. Reederei Riedel GmbH offers 1, 1.5 and 3hr bridge tour cruises daily between 9 March and 14th December and tickets are available up to 30mins before departure times. The boat leaves from Markisches Ufer at the corner of from Markisches Ufer at the corner of Kollnischen Park and will take you through the heart of the capital, down the River Spree and through the Landwehr Canal. Get a different perspective and catch glimpses of the city, which couldn’t be possible from anywhere else. Commentary in both English and German is also available.

2. There are some lovely walks alongside the River Spree, with various U-Bahn and S-Bahn hop-on hop-off points along the way to suit your resilience. Walking west up from Warschauer Strasse on the north side of the river will bring you past the East Side Gallery. Here, liberty is portportrayed in a whole new figurative light. This 1.3 km-long segment of “Die Mauer” features over 100 paintings by artists that were produced following the fall of the wall and occasional preservation efforts have been ongoing since 2000.

3. The centre of Mitte is a 3km walk from the East Side Gallery, and encompasses one of the nicest walks along the Spree around Museuminsel (Museum Island). Feel free to take some time out inside the museums, which include the Pergamonmuseum, the Neues Museum, the Nationalgalerie, the James Simon-galerie and the Bode-Museum, as well as the beautiful cathedcathedral, the Berliner Dome. Mitte is the city’s largest district, so if you’re growing peckish, you will find it is littered with places you can sit down for lunch, whatever your taste or budget may be.

4. Come afternoon, catch the dependable no100 bus into Tiergarten Park to relax, unwind and enjoy the 255 hectares of parkland, with all its paths, waterways, and vast cache of war memorials and victory statues. There is also a café and beer garden.

5. While inside the park, you may want to visit the distinguished Zoologischer Garten. The zoo opened in 1844 and todopened in 1844 and today holds around 14,000 animals, which is more species than any other zoo in Europe. Entry is around 8 euro for students. Next door, the Berlin Aquarium also makes a worthwhile visit and is considered one of the world’s most advanced man-made oceanic ecosystems.

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REICHSTAGWindow on Berlin

The Reichstag is the focal point of the Bundestag quartet, the German equivalent of parliament. The German democratic process once again finds its fulcrum here, after again finds its fulcrum here, after the turbulent years of German history. Come here to gain appreciation of the absorbing ups and downs of Germany’s democracy, from the fire that ripped through the building, to HitleHitler’s inglorious reign, to the modern democratic leadership of Angela Merkel.

Naturally, the Reichstag is a fascinating building. It has its traditional architecture from 1894 juxtaposed alongside the instantly recognizable, futuristic half-dome recognizable, futuristic half-dome designed by English wunderkind Sir Norman Foster. Symbolism of German democracy is rife throughout the building. Transparency is a key motif, as seen through glass constructions; furthermore, symbols of German furthermore, symbols of German identity are omnipresent, as emphasised by the large eagle design at the back of the plenary chamber.

Most importantly, entry is free. Come in the off-season or on evenings to avoid the queues, and evenings to avoid the queues, and you will be treated to panoramic views of the city accompanied by the soothing tones of a complimentary audio companion. A visit to the Reichstag is a must for those interested in politics or architecture. architecture.

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Potsdam

Potsdam is a breathtakingly picturesque city that lies only twenty minutes outside of the capital. With a small amount of money to pay for a cheap train fare, Potsdam can be easily enjoyed as a fairytale-like daylong excursion away from the bustle and commotion of central Berlin.

The Sansoucci The Sansoucci Park is where the tourists will inevitably be drawn first. Developed on the whims of the prominent Frederick the Great, this park contains a large and distinctive variety of architecture that is bound to please even the hardest souls. The wonderful, elevated Schloss Sanssouci acts as the focal point, constructed as a relaxing and functional summer residence. The Chinese Tea House manages to pull off quaint decorations and a porcelain sporcelain style façade. Other stunning palaces are ten a penny, a massive indication of the extravagance of Frederick the Great’s lifestyle and his influence.

One such palace, the New Palace, is unmissable and offers tours. The guide leads through room after room with exuberantly designed Rocco features, in a pair of comically oversized slippers. Affordable and interesting, it helps you to understand just how these prosperous leaders lithese prosperous leaders lived. It would not be a surprise if one quickly became enticed by the emperor lifestyle. Grand architecture and self-indulgent design are central to what makes Potsdam such an interesting place and a worthwhile trip for the discerning Berlin visitor. Now the state capital of Brandenburg, Potsdam shares the same old/new distinction held by Berlin, but in a more manageable and possibly enchanting way.

Outside of the main palace park, Potsdam is a fairly thriving cultural hub. The Dutch and Russian quarters are historical areas well worth a visit, containing quaint little shops and a fascinating variety of food and drink stops. Potsdam is famed for the significance of the post-war conference in 1945, where the troika of Churchill, Stalin and Truman met, in order to splice Germain order to splice Germany up into its new constituent parts. Its relationship with Berlin is consequently intrinsically linked. The building where the conference was held, the Cecileinhof Palace, is set amongst lush grassland and as large freshwater lake, and typically, a wealth of other scenic buildings.

Spend a day in Potsdam, and you can return to Berlin relaxed, inspired and recovered enough to once again hit the hectic lifeslifestyle that Berlin has to offer.

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Shopping

Anyone who comes to shop in Berlin will never cease to be satisfied. Whether your taste is small, funky yet eccentric business stores, bustling flohmarkets, or the trendy and elegant boutiques, the city boasts it all. The elegent pavements of the West have always been the more upmarket and exclusive shopping district showcasing big name bbrands, while in the East around Friedrichshain, you are more likely to find smaller fashion labels, vintage stores and second hand shops for that priceless gift.

Brand Outlet Shopping

If you like to follow all the latest trends and styles you can find all those familiar brand outlets along Friedrichstrasse in Mitte at much more reasonable prices than along Kurfrstendamm in Charlottenburg, although this is the more recognialthough this is the more recognized shopping district in the city. This area also enfolds city’s largest department store Ka De We (Kaufhaus des Westens) for that special holiday treat. It is the equivalent to London’s Harrods and the prices are no exception. The upper hand is that it is a quieter way to go about your spending, rather then dodging other shoppers on the street and the Wintergarten Restauranton the seventh floor boasts is worth stopping by, if not to eat, to taeat, to take in the view down Kurfustendamm. After dark in December, the street will light up in Christmas festoon, adding that little bit of extra pleasure to the shopping experience.

Flohmarkets

Berlin also boasts a number of weekend flea markets known as ‘Flohmarkets’. If you enjoy spending hours scavenging, or just browsing the stalls, haggling in German and having a general chit-chat with the locals, the flea markets of Berlin compose a memorable outing. Furthermore it takes a very strong will to resist the aroma of freshly bafreshly baked waffles, Turkish kebabs and other oriental delicacies, hanging in the wintry air. With a high proportion of tourists willing to pay inflated prices, it can be harder to find a bargain at some of these markets, but if you know what you're looking for and speak a matter of German, its not impossible.

Most markets are open through the weekend or on Sunday’s only. The Charlottenburg Flohmarket on Strasse des 17 Juni is the place to find collectors antiques, while the find collectors antiques, while the Trodlmarkt Boxhagener Platz in Friedrichshain is a popular way for t-shirt designers and local artists to sell their wares. The city’s biggest and most popular fleamarket is that on Sunday’s in Maurpark.

The Mauerpark Flea market is a packed and busy hubbub of people and things. The biggest flea market in Berlin, there are useful items a plenty. From unknown records, to hats, cutlery and naturally: food. If If you’re patient, you may find a quality antique or a pair of intricately designed earrings.Just outside the flea market (actually in the park) you will find an outdoor Karaoke! This is free and very atmospheric. Hopefully during the time you’re there, at least one decent singer will come forward!

Freidrichshain vs. Savignyplatz

The perfect location for designers?

“The problem is not to create, the problem is to sell”

Down the graffiti-laden alleyways of Freidrichshain, you will find streetware shops, urban brands and all kinds of unusual inner-city stores with unconventional merchandise. In a corresponding light, the more aristocratic suburb of Savignyplatz is rising up as a classy new hub for rrare and valuable antique stores, as well as refined, avant-garde fashion.

These two budding city neighbourhoods may contrast sharply with each other, but in comparable terms, both are emerging as principal locales where fresh-faced, aspiring designers are choosing to set up businesses and build up a recognition in Berlin. With very different target clientele, rent expenditure and personal characteristics, the many businesses that entrepreneurs set up in either Friedrichshain or SSavignyplatz, are done so with a lot of strategical thought.

According to aspiring designer Nina Tonnies of Superschlupfer in Friedrischshain and designer duo Marlene Scheffel and Iskander Porodjuk of Luxxus Fashion Department in Savignyplatz, the most important thing to consider when setting up a business is the location, as this can make the difference between its failure and success, particularly in the delicate afterglow of the economic downturn, where all need to tread carefullall need to tread carefully.

Nina Tonnies, set up her designer underwear store ‘Superschlupfer’ in Friedrichshain two years ago, right before the global financial meltdown hit Berlin. Her store sells a wide selection of men and women’s underwear, ranging in prices from 10 up to 30 euros. Although she currently only sells reputable labels, Nina hopes to create and sell her own line of underwear someday. However this dream won’t be recognirecognized until more funds come in.

Nina admits that the business did suffer a little during the global recession, but being able to scout the right location and design her own layout of the shop using expert knowledge gained from her preceding years as a graphic designer and having a creative knack for knowing what people like, has all contributed to the survival of Superschlupfer.

When asked ‘why Friedrichshain?’ Nina replied that it was a place for people who people who want to develop and act upon their creative ideas. With a funky underground vibe, as well as cheap rent, food and most importantly, beer, the store’s location in Friedrichshain was worth fighting for. The competition was intense and it took a lot of saving and investment, but Nina’s choice was essential in order to attract the necessary target customers. Today, Nina considers her business to be establishing itself in the locality quite well and said she wants to try it out for a while before taking the next major step towards the creation of her own unique brand. One could say it is luck, but Nina’s success to date is largely a result of making her mark in this multicultural and urban community.

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Similarly, Marlene Scheffel and Iskander Porodjuk opened Luxxus Fashion Department in the noble and exclusive atmosphere of Savignyplatz just one year after graduating together from a private design school in Berlin back in 2005. The duo talked about the idea of starting a concept fashionstore representing two different sstore representing two different styles of fashion; haute culture and dance sport culture, as Iskander was a former dancer. With help from parents and after a lot of saving, everything Marlene and Iskander had invested was put towards the incorporation of the business. Today, two collections are produced annually in the attached studio. Aside from the daily range, Marlene and Iskander also create customicustomized pieces for their clients upon request. There is a common belief that Berlin is becoming more prominent in the fashion scene, alongside Paris and London. Sales are targeted towards people looking for individuality and customers tend to be young adolescents that are involved in dance sports and come from wealthy families. YYoung Russian dancers are Luxxus’ most popular clients.

Unfortunately it’s a Catch 22 state of affairs for Luxxus. In order to meet the target clientele, the business needed to be established in the richer part of Berlin, but Savignyplatz is such an exclusive area that few potential buyers come by to browse. With prices for a typical dance costume averaging around 1000 euros, it is not surprising that the income hardly ccovers the rent and material costs and the business sometimes struggles because of this. Furthermore, the pair admits that there is not enough money in Berlin, particularly as a result of the economic crisis and to add to the complexity, there is a lot of competition from other young designers that are in the same boat.

Marlene and Iskander have come to realise that it is impossible to liimpossible to live from profits and that for the survival of the business, some changes need to be made. Lots of talking and cooperation is essential and the team has some current active ideas on how they can do this. These include promoting the collection in eight different fairs that are going on around the city and making efforts to upsell the dresses. Again it all comes down to money and the partners would still have to ppay a hefty fee to take part in fashion shows for the promotion of their line.

Nevertheless despite the adversity, Marlene and Iskander still have not lost their sense of humor, which they both know is an essential attribute to uphold in this industry. When asked why he quit dancing, Iskander answered “I would rather be a bad designer than a bad dancer”.

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Berlin is a pool of talent brimming with cultures, young people, artists and musicians from all over the world. One of the reasons they converge on Berlin is because, unlike London, New York and Tokyo, this metropolis is actually affordable to liaffordable to live in. If you are somewhat poor, though like partying and want to experience the more exciting parts of life, I totally recommend you visit or even relocate to Berlin.

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A.

She may look all cute, though a angel she is not. Little Lucy, the creation of the Berlin street artist El Bocho, has a cat fetish. But she doesn't cuddle them, like most little girls would. She tortures, hangs and kills these little kitties. hangs and kills these little kitties. But lets not blame Little Lucy for these crimes, as they come out of the head of El Bocho. He is one of Berlin's most respected artists and is famed for his work with tape, which is a artistic discipline.

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Little Lucy

You could call it a treehouse. Though its a treehouse with a longer story than most.

It starts with Osman Kalin, one of many Turkish emigrants, who has left the Kreuzberg area of Berlin known as Little Istanbul. From Mr Kalin's apartment, he saw a piece of unused land. This land, was left by the GDR (Former East Germany) during its construction of construction of Wall. There was a bend in the border and to save on material, the East Germans, decided to just straighten the wall.

Well over time, this land, became a bit of a tip; that is until Mr Kalin, decided to use it as a garden. The East Germans, let him use the land as he was a unfortunate victim of capitalist circumstances. Ofcourse West German authorities, could not do anything about it as it wasn't in there Jurisdiction.

Out of the garden, sprouted the treehouse. Constructed gOut of the garden, sprouted the treehouse. Constructed gradually from 1989, using bits of random unused materials. He even used abandoned mattresses. Today its a example of what a person can do with what society considers waste. Though its still a sturdy German construction, with a unique Turkish twist; leaving it with a reputation of being iconic building in Berlin.

Though its not its architectural uniqueness which leaves it with such a esteemed reputation. This construction and Mr Kalin, himself, went through a great ordeal to keep it standing. After re-unification and the fall of the wall, the united Berlin authorities wanted to build a road, where the wall once stood. This road would have meant, the demolition of Mr Kalin's creation. Though he stood strong, and faced the he stood strong, and faced the rath of the authorities. He even feared, they would come and take his belongings away, so his response was to cement every piece of furniture to the ground.

Mr Kalin, received a saving grace in the form, of the nearby Church. Officially the Treehouse was on Church land. Under the complexities of German law, this meant the building could not be demolished without prior consent from the Church. Though consent consent was not forth coming. Mr Kalin lobbied the Church and because they liked his way of life and his family ethic, they decided he should stay.

To this day, it is where Osman Kalin calls home, the place he raised his children, and where his grandchildren come to visit him.

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Baumhaus an der Mauer

TACHELES

After the fall of Berlin Wall Kunsthaus Tacheles came to express the fusion of the city’s once divided East and West. A large sprawling building originally squatted by a group who hoped to halt its demolition; the structure rapidly transformed in to an active artistic playground. Now greatly acclaimed, it is stuffed full of art and known as greatly acclaimed, it is stuffed full of art and known as Tacheles; after a Yiddish word that stands for honesty, hard work and straight talking. On Oranienburger Straße it is relatively easy to find, unlike many of Berlin's other gems, and a stone’s throw from the tourist Mecca Alexander Platz.

Wandering into the Tacheles courtyard you’ll be delighted to notice large, tatty and hopelessly comfortable sofas stsofas strategically placed around this open air yard, conveniently close to an outside bar. Though it won’t necessarily be the beer alone drawing your attention, since there are a wealth of fantastic sections of graffiti here waiting to lure the peepers. During the summer it’s without doubt one of the city’s most unique biergartens, frequently hosting raucous parties that carry on through the night and well into the morning.well into the morning.

By day it’s worth stopping to appreciate the sheer quality and quantity of the graffiti on the outside of the building. Tempted inside take your time to enjoy the mass of varied exhibits, ranging from live performances to pensive sculptures.

If you walk up several flights of stairs you’ll come across original art prints for sale. If original art prints for sale. If you fancy taking a bit of the real Berlin home with you, it would be a good idea to check out the art prints and see if any take your fancy. It’s better than the tourist tat on Museum Island, and as prices start from a few Euros’ it may work out cheaper. Who knows, you may end up with a canny investment.

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Tacheles is not just another gallery since it hosts over 30 working studios, and is home to around 50 artists who ply their wares from this property. Artists wares from this property. Artists gather here from all over the world continuing the tradition of uniting those of different back grounds started by the conjunction of East and West Berlin’s creative youth. Accordingly, every couple of months there appear new artists months there appear new artists bringing their own different, fresh and unique contribution’s with them, allowing the Tacheles society to constantly evolve.

Everyone is

‘wilkommen’‘wilkommen’

54-56 Oranienburger Straße

Fast FoodFancy a quick bite to eat the Berlin way? Imbiss can be bought from seemingly a million different locations in Berlin. The choice may seem daunting at first, so here are some tips for tasty, cheap and wholeheartedly German snacks:

The PretzelInterestingly, a traditional German pretzel shares little similarity with the George W Bush choking US equivalent. You will discover that the pretzels in Berlin are large and Bush choking US equivalent. You will discover that the pretzels in Berlin are large and soft, effectively glazed bread covered in lashings of salt. Very tasty, but you may feel your blood pressure rising as you eat it. Expect to pay roughly a euro for this snack. Remember to bring or buy a drink to conquer the inevitable thirst.

Cakes and BreadThe Konditorei and Bäckerei are two words that are ubiquitous throughout Berlin’s streets. Translated as Cake Shop and Bakery, these show German food at its most eye-catching and charming. Pop in for a quick browse and from A to Z, something sweet eye-catching and charming. Pop in for a quick browse and from A to Z, something sweet or savoury will give the taste buds a few special minutes to feel like royalty.

The CurrywurstA Berlin legend. The currywurst can be found in many fast food outlets throughout the city. Cheap and filling, money will buy find a large sausage dusted in curry powder and swamped in a tomato and curry sauce. To the uninitiated, the concept may seem strange and somewhat unappetising. But give it a chance, this iconic member of the sprawling wurst family should be experienced by all who visit the city. For devotees, the option of wurst family should be experienced by all who visit the city. For devotees, the option of checking out the Currywurst Museum is a great little diversion. Try with fried onion for an extra sensation.

The KebabOften served with a cheeky large smile and some friendly banter or broken attempts at either German or English, the kebab is at home in Berlin. Those found should easily surpass the soggy messes that constitute the typical kebab you will findon a particularly boisterous English night out. Germany is home to a large on a particularly boisterous English night out. Germany is home to a large migrant Turkish community. Whisper it, but the kebab in its modern guise originated in Berlin, in the Kreuzberg region. Many of these kebabs are good enough and cheap enough for you to eat at any time of the day, and in the most sober state of mind. As always though, caution is advised in the more run-down looking outlets.

Salami and CheeseIf you find yourself yearning for the good- old reliable sandwich, If you find yourself yearning for the good- old reliable sandwich, you may initially be disappointed with the selection that Berlin has to offer. However, for a German twist on an English standard, you can try exchanging smoked ham and vintage cheddar for peppered salami, mayonnaise and assorted cheeses. Eaten anytime between breakfast and dinner, this variant on an English staple is both satisfying and rather delectablerather delectable

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Very famous are the Fair Trade Restaurants, where individuals decide how much to pay, based on what they think the food is worth. It sounds enticing and inexpensive, but don’t be too churlish! These restaurants are often in Friedrichshain and Prenzlauer Berg- the area where all vegetarians should start looking for food. Of course, there are places everywhere to stop your stomach from snarling, but the biggest and best choice is actually in the former East of Berlin. biggest and best choice is actually in the former East of Berlin. For many restaurant owners this is the perfect area, because these districts have the cheapest rents and swarm with young, alternative people who are probably more likely to enjoy vegetarian food. Moreover there are places where they regale their guests with fresh roulades and red cabbage. The German cuisine offers a rich choice of tasty food- and not just for meat lovers!!!

Have you ever tried to eat a whole three-course-meal with a blindfold? No? Then you should take the chance in Berlin. Visit the pitch-black “Nocti Vagus” restaurant, where blind waiters lovingly serve their meals to guests, before the evening ends with an entertaining show. It’s recommended to book in adrecommended to book in advance and to take your time.

Restaurants

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Brunch: The new lunch

In many cultures, brunch is recognized as a light snack. In Berlin, it is becoming an essential repast, particularly where there are many emerging cafes that offer an all you can eat buffet from brunchtime. It may be taking the attention away from breakfast as the most important meal of the day, but when many venues charge under 10 euros per person, who’s complaining?

One particular café in Kreuzberg, Que One particular café in Kreuzberg, Que Pasa on Oranienstrasse, runs an all-day all-you-can-eat buffet on Sundays only for 5.90 euros. With an artistic décor, upbeat Mexican background music and huge variety of Mexican dishes, there is something to suit every taste. Included in the price is a welcome drink, usually pink fresh guava juice, which will be promptly served to your table upon arrival, in amiable demeanor.

Another great brunch venue can be found along the picturesque KKufürstendamm avenue in Charlottenburg. On weekdays at the Natur-Backerei you can enjoy a delicious brunch menu before starting a shopping quest. You won’t miss the big green plastic cow that points you in the right direction, that is, inside. The restaurant has a very peaceful, tidy and pleasant layout to enjoy your first meal of the day, while reading your favourite newspaper. Brunch is only 9 euros, which will allow you to eat and drink as much food as your stomach is able to hold, including hot drinks, pastries, salads, cold dishes, etc.The best part is that all is prepared pastries, salads, cold dishes, etc.The best part is that all is prepared thoroughly right in front of your eyes with fresh products from the Swiss and German countryside. Don’t forget to try the homemade juices, mainly. The carrot and orange juices in my personal opinion, are just “zu gut” to be true.

Mustafas Gemüsekebab Mehringdamm 32 (Kreuzberg), U Mehringdamm

By now certainly the most famous kebab house in Berlin, Mustafas Gemüsekebab is located just a few meters from Curry36. Unfortunately, long waiting lines are guaranteed. Though, at the end it’s definitely worth it indeed. As soon as you order your mouth starts watering. Whether vegetable kebab, with or without chicwith or without chicken, the masters work in record times and fulfil your wishes. Delicious grilled vegetables with potatoes, fresh tomatoes, cucumber, feta cheese and three different sauces are just waiting to get packed in a bread or roll of dough.

Hans Wurst Dunckerstraße 2a (Prenzlauer Berg), U Eberswalderstraße

Hans, he only cooks from the top! The daily meals are all from organic farms. Therefore gourmands hTherefore gourmands have to pay through ones nose. It may cost more in comparison to other restaurants in the area, but here the quality is higher. Simple retro decoration brings coziness, alongside enjoyable music entertainment, fresh flowers, a friendly atmosphere and fresh groceries that taste excellent. A perfect place, whether you are sat relaxed on a couch to drink a soy chai latte while reading a book, or to dine together with friends. The owners of Hans The owners of Hans Wurst have a clear message: They like to host, but the client is a guest, not the king. This follows the message of Hans Wurst: There should be no racism, sexism, anti-Semitism or homophobia. This mirrors Hans Wurst himself, how he always wanted to be: real, undisguised, honest and friendly.

Like the idea of fresh guacamole, sour creme and salsa encountering a cheesy burrito or rather a quesadilla? The W-Imbiss offers a great menu of vegetarian dishes for around 5€ and therefore, in comparison to the up-side-down W, is the absolute winner. At yyour whim you can order an individual naan pizza with different toppings. If you don’t feel like pizza, there are more choices, such as Indian or Japanese rice dishes (with fish available), wraps, salads and soup.

AsianTex MexFor Vegetarians

Kastanienallee 49,Prenzlauer Berg, U Rosenthaler Platz

W- Imbiss

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Nil- Imbiss Grünberger Str. 52 (Friedrichshain), S+ U Warschauer Straße

Just a few meters away from the popular nightspot of Simon-Dach-Straße, the Nil Imbiss lies hidden in a byroad. Despite few seats, it is a place to feel comfortable in. If it’s not bitterly cold or rainy, it is possible to rest on a little bench outside or just gobble your snack on the move. The friendly team serserves typical Sudanese specialties for just 2-4€. The Falafel, with a creamy peanut butter sauce in pita bread, (vegan possible) is definitely the highlight, alongside the hibiscus-flower juice. Besides Falafel there are other delicious vegetable dishes, such as Halloumi, and they have chicken, lamb and tuna for meat-eaters.

Hot- Dog- Soup Grünbergerstr. 69 (Friedrichshain), S+ U WarschauerstraßeRRaumerstraße 5 (Prenzlauer Berg), Sredzkistraße 18, U Eberswalderstraße

A cheap and diverse place for all hotdog lovers. For 2€ they serve every guest a freshly made Tofu sausage in a bun. Besides the classic, Danish hotdog with crispy onions, there is the choice between Brazilian and Hawaiian creations, as well as extra cheesy or hot and spicy bedded sausages. The daily soups come with different kinds of bread and are available for just 3€. Especially on a cold winter day, you can warm yourself up with a healtup with a healthy red-lentil-coconut soup or a tomato-rice soup. If you want to sit for a while it’s the wrong place. There are not many accessible seats in or outside- but don’t worry- before the exit, you’ll realise the delicious hotdog is already finished.

Vöner Wagenburger Boxhagener Straße 59 (Friedrichshain), S Ostkreuz

Vöner- the vegetarian Doner is an alternative food for those who don’t like meat or want to try something new. The scraped Seitan “meat” is packed in a typical Kebabbread or in a Dürüm, garnished with some lettuce and three different kinds of sauce. Furthermore, they offer their guests organice- burger made of seitan or gburger made of seitan or grain and fries. The prices are ordinary (2- 3.50€), unlike the food. Here plenty of seats are available, though the hectic ambience doesn’t invite you to sit down. All in all, a Vöner is good once in awhile for a take away experience.

Morgenrot Café Bar Kastanienallee 85 (Prenzlauer Berg), U Eberswalderstraße

Perfect for a wake-up brunch, before it goes to the nearby flea market at Mauerpark. EMauerpark. Every Friday, Saturday and Sunday (11am- 3pm) the Morgenrot Café offers a great vegan/ vegetarian breakfast buffet- all for a low price! For those on a budget: you decide how much you pay. It doesn’t matter how much everybody has eaten. However, they recommend between 4- 8€ to cover their costs. At Tuesday and Thursday noon you can start your day with a vegan and vegetarian breakfast plate (with a vegan scrambled egg included!). The other meals turn out modestly, but with a beer, wine or cocktail (cocktail (vegan possible) they are a great tidbit: nachos, sandwiches, soups, bruchettas and hummus with bread cost between 2-5€. The atmosphere is simple and rustic. Nevertheless, it’s a good place to meet friends in the morning for breakfast or in the evening after work! 58

In the words of the Vapiano logo ‘Chi va piano, va sano i va lontano’, those who goes slow, go healthy and go far in life.

The high ceilings, bright architecture and beautiful, spacious patios create a setting, which is pleasing to the eye. There are a numerous variety of salads, fresh pastas and pastas and ravioli, desserts such as the homemade tiramisu or the panna cota (cooked cream with vanilla beans) and of course, various pizzas. All dishes, using natural ingredients and daily sauces, are cooked before your very eyes in a matter of minutes, so you can enjoy “la Dolce Vita” in the heart of the German capital.

Vapiano is considered a very urban concept for young professionals with professionals with over 60% of the customers being female. So grab your girlies because a memorable Italian experience is waiting for you!

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This chain is renowned in the western hemisphere, generally finding its base in ripe locations. This is definitely true of the branch in Berlin that resides within walking distance of the TV towers beloved Alexanderplatz.

IIt’s largely populated by English speaking guests so you may feel that you’re still in your home country, but for comfy, spacious and modern accommodation it’s hard to beat.

Enjoy the buffet breakfast and the cheap drinks available from the bar, or the occasional football match if you’re that way inclined. Doom siinclined. Doom sizes vary, from 3 Bed to 10 Bed and accordingly prices range from £16 to £25, a private room with shared bathroom will set you back £42 approx.

Belushi's is a great venue for all visitors frantic to see their favourite sport team live once in Berlin. Whether you cheer for an American, European or Australian football team, surely, this is a fantastic abode.

A very young and friendly crowd gathers everyday, adding to the upsurge of a fun adding to the upsurge of a fun yet chauvinistic atmosphere, and there is a very good and extensive daily food menu, amongst which includes a gigantic “currywurst”, for only three euros.

Celebrate your team victories with a “Weisse Bier” in hand or just chill out and listen to a great selection of fad music in good company.

Belushi's Sport Bar& St. Christopher InnRosa-Luxemburg-Str 4110178 Berlinwww.belushis.comStation: U Rosa-Luxemburg-Str

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Kaffee Burgeraddress:Torstrasse 60- 10119 Mitte - U Rosa-Luxemburg Platz At night, this venue is anything but a coffee or burger outlet. Rather, Kaffee Burger is a cosy little club with a penchant for larger-than-life music selections and attracting a bustling and diverse crowd. With music ranging from Russian folksongs, through contemporary Indie to country music and bebeyond, the DJ is likely to surprise you with each track. If a night away from the scenesters is required, this charmingly simple little venue might just make your night.

CassiopeiaRevaler Straße 9910245 Friedrichshain - Station: Warschauer StraßeTucked away amongst the playground of dereliction and graffiti off Revaler Straße, this two-floored club provides a relatively down-to-earth club in an uncounconventional setting. The downstairs utilises draped curtains and low-lighting to provide a gloomy tone. Upstairs is more welcoming, with an open-plan and relatively large dancefloor. If you want to find an alternative club with an alternative crowd, Cassiopeia might be the place to try.

MatrixWarschauer Strasse 18, Friedrichschain - Station: Warschauer StraßeMatrix splits opinion. A large club underneath Warschauer Straße railway station, it prstation, it provides music and dancing for the masses. Throughout the various rooms most tastes will be catered for, although maybe to a limited extent. Podiums, cheesy music, commercial RnB and lots of pulse raising tunes will be found here. The infamous Red bar crawl ends up here, so non-binge drinkers would be advised to stay away, or be prepared to expect some less than courteous behaviour.

Bang-Bang ClubNeue Promenade10178 MitteStation: Hackescher MarktFashionable indie venue that attracts the likes of Belle & Sebastian, The Twilight Sad and others, for exclusive DJ sets. The Bang-Bang Club is set amid the pricey restaurants of Hackescher Markt, but is more reasonably priced. Friday nights attract the largest crowds, with a reliably enjoyable selection of indie and electrselection of indie and electro. Not particularly economical, but if a night amongst Pete Doherty and Peaches Geldof look-alikes is desired, then this place is more than likely to satisfy the urge.

Zapata BarOranienburger Straße 5410117 MitteStation: Oranienburher Straße/ Oranienburger TorSharing land and joining in with the arty, underground feel of the neighbouring neighbouring Tacheles Gallery, this groovy bar and club has an atmospheric, innovative vibe. In Summer, an intriguing sandpit garden complete with hammocks and barbecued food is worth experiencing for the communal spirit as dusk draws in. A mixed, alternative crowd is standard for this moderately priced location on Oranienburger Straße.

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Located along the trendy Oranienstrasse and having played host to the likes of David Bowie and Iggy Pop, S036 is Berlin’s clubs equivalent to marmite.

S036 offers us very little surprises when it comes to decor. The venue is the very definition of punk; all bedraggled and grimy, with posters of bands you’ve probably never heard of plastered across the walls.

According to the clubs Press OfficeAccording to the clubs Press Officer, Henning Sedlmeir, the club attracts a diverse crowd.”We get Queers, Punks, Artists and nonconformists”, he explains, “It’s all dependant on the evenings programme”.

From the moment you enter the club it’s obvious it holds an anything goes policy. The smell of marijuana lingers in the air and drug use is fairly open. It’s also worth mentioning that things don’t kick off until the early hours, so don’t get there too early!

If what you’ve just read sounds like your cup of tea then you may just get a kick out of S036; If not, iS036; If not, it’s probably best to avoid!

SO36

The Image Factory There’s far more to this store than first meets the eye,

Brooms, brushes and wicker baskets may seem fairly mundane items, but there’s far more to this store than meets the eye.Located in the hip Kreusberg area, nothing about this shop seems particularly out of the ordinary. There’s a pleasing selection of goods on offer, ranging from small traditional style brooms to large intricate wicker baskets. It’s only when we realise that these items hthat these items have been made by the blind and handicapped that we can truly appreciate this store.

The shop has been producing goods for over 120 years and offers a variety of services such as bookbinding, carpentry and tailoring to name a few. Back in 1998 German designers Oliver Wogt and Hermann Weizenegger got involved with the store and gave the traditional items a modern twist. The shop’s items, still made by the blind and handicapped, now range from practical to offbeat.

The store has successfully incorpoThe store has successfully incorporated contemporary design without compromising its own unique style. And with its goods being sold in cities as far flung as London, Tokyo and San Francisco, it’s fair to say business is good at the Imaginary Factory.

Unfair-trade You may be unfamiliar with the concept of a fair-trade restaurant, so allow me to give a brief explanation. A set menu is offered, and usually an unlimited supply of wine. Afterwards instead of a bill you are expected to pay what you believe to be fair. As a concept it’s wonderful, in realiwonderful, in reality it has its flaws. Sort of like Communism, but more food orientated.

The first surprise is how classy the restaurant looks. In my head I pictured a dingy squat, all murkiness and suspect smells but I couldn’t have been more wrong. Tastefully decorated with candles lending the room a romantic quality; this place is a million miles away from my imaginings. A great place to bring the girlfriend I think to myself.

It’s also worth mentioning the toilets as they are wonderfully quirky and slightly surreal, with dolls and mannequins offering company as you, ahem, make one’s bladder gladder.

A great selection of both red and white wine bodes well as we are told about the starteA great selection of both red and white wine bodes well as we are told about the starter, main and dessert on offer. For a starter I decide on the pumpkin soup and for my main I choose the moussaka, and whilst the food is fairly average, the fact you can decide what to pay is starting to inspired.

This is where things start to get a bit iffy. For my two courses and glasses of wine I decide to pay the waiter 10 euro with a 20 note. This to me seems fair. The waiter on the other hand decides this isn’t fair and takes it upon himself to refuse me change. Surely there must have been some misunderstanding? Sadly not. It seems that despite the promises of faibeen some misunderstanding? Sadly not. It seems that despite the promises of fair-trade, the waiter already has in mind how much I’m to pay him and despite my best efforts, there ‘s no way I’m getting any change back.

The promises were too good to be true then, and instead of a fair trade, I’m left feeling slightly short changed.

Christopher Isherwood, author of ‘Goodbye Berlin’, knew well the gay old times that could be had in this diverse metropolis in the 1930’s, and the scene thrives here once again in the early 21st Century. The ‘world’s first organisation for homosexuals was established in Berlin in 1897’ and the city has a gay Lord MajoLord Major. The perfect place then to be out and about, enjoying the enigmatic magic that draws visitors to this fair hub.

As the venues of the moment are always changing it’s worth checking out the free and well informed gay magazines available throughout the city. A major player is ‘Siegessaule’, or ‘Victory Column’, a surprisingly thick monthly release that contains surprisingly thick monthly release that contains date listings for appealing events nestled alongside general interest articles. Be warned though the it’s only available in print in German, though one could visit the magazine online and translate using the wonders of the web. Worth doing because a laborious night in with the dictionary is not how you hip cats mhip cats may want to spend your time. Others of note include ‘Out in Berlin’, an English/German concoction that functions as a travel guide; and ‘Sevgej’ that according to berlininfo.com, is ‘glossier’ and not as ‘grass roots’ as others on offer.

For those looking for wholesome daytime activities, the gay museum/archive/library is available for extended browsing; books cannot however be checked out so grab a corner and have a read as the feeling takes you. Open all week bar week bar Tuesday from 14:00-19:00, this is an attractive, welcoming site to visit. Get to Mehringdam on the U6 and head to building number 61 after exiting the station.

Unwholesome activities are on offer in the form of, well might you have guessed, it a wealth of pubs and clubs. guessed, it a wealth of pubs and clubs. Many reputedly get extremely cheeky toward the latter parts of the night, but for those hoping to keep themselves and their surroundings rather cleaner there are plenty of laidback options. Districts to head to include Nollendorfplatz, particularly for the male Nollendorfplatz, particularly for the male gay scene, Kreuzberg which is a ‘more liberal area’, and Prenzlauerberg that has a ‘newer scene’.

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Not even the biting cold can stop Hertha Berlins enthusiastic fans. The streets up to the Olympiastadium are a sea of blue and white tops and scarves as far as the eye can see, all here to show their local team support.

Formed back in 1892 by two sets of teenage brothers, Hertha Berlin are the capitals city’s best-supported team and despite not being particularly successful still manage to attnot being particularly successful still manage to attract crowds of around 50,000 every week.

Carl Anton Heltzer, a fan for as long as he can remember, has a love hate relationship with the team. ”It’s such a shame because they have great fans and a great stadium,” Anton explains “but the quality of football is really poor. It’s very frustrating!”

““We are doing so badly this season, it looks very likely that we’ll be relegated,” he adds “and then Berlin won’t have a team in the Bundesliga”

For such a well supported team, relegation would be devastating, however it would not be the first time the team has faced crisis, or indeed, relegation. Back in 1964 the team was demoted from the Bundesliga for offering bribes to players to play for the team. Fast forward to 1971 were Hertha , along with a number of other teams, were involved in a match fixing scandal. It is fair to say, the club and its supporters have endured a fairly turbulent history.

It is not just the club which has a chequered past, the teamIt is not just the club which has a chequered past, the team’s home ground, the Olympiastadium also has a fairly large skeleton residing in its closet.

Initially the stadium was to be built for the 1916 Olympics, however the outbreak of the First World War halted construction. It was then Adolf Hitler who okayed construction of the stadium, deciding it was to be the focal point of his "Reichssportfeld" (Imperial Sports Field).

Construction eventually took place between 1934-36, with the projects original architect original architect Werner March retaining his role. On completion the stadium had a capacity of around 110,000 and hosted the first ever televised Olympics.

So whilst the stadium was born out of Nazi propaganda, the fascist ties are a distant memory and the football is not played solely on the right wing.

The stadium itself is a sight to behold, calling to mind the coliseums of ancient Rome. And with tickets available for under 10 euros, it’s well worth forking out for, if not for the football then the superb atmosphere and view of the stadium.

Hertha Berlin

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Hitting the Tarmac- Running In Berlin To soak up the essence of Berlin in a swift snapshot, strap on your running shoes and hit the ground. Watch out for the trams and the glaring Ampelman, and Berlin may reveal itself in charming and unexpected ways. The body will get the chance to refresh and test itself against all the late-night partying and glutinous dining it will likely endure.

Whether you choose to run through the scenic Tiergarten, along the broad River Spree, or through the sobering towerblocks of East Berlin, through the sobering towerblocks of East Berlin, you are sure to see some facets of the city which remain surreptitiously hidden on the traditional sight-seeing tours and nightclub hotspots. While you might not be Usain Bolt smashing the 100m world record, or the great Jesse Owens winning gold 1936, any self motivated individual who wants to test their mettle and keep themselves fit will find that Berlin can offer it all. Here are some possible locations for aspirant Berlin-joggers to give a try:

VolksparkA run to Friedrichschain and the Volkspark, park of the people, takes you along bleak accommodation, through undulating parklands with statues sprinkled far and wide. You’ll pass many other joggers and dog-walkers as you push yourself through each and every cobbled incline. To finish, the vast Olympic velodrome of Landsberger Allee is nearnearby

TiergartenA renowned tourist destination, for exhibitionists the Tiergarten is sure to draw the eyes of at least a few distracted passers by. With beautiful scenery and a vast landscape, the Tiergarten can be visited time again and still reveal new secrets. It is possible to make a reasonable detour through the Brandenburg Gate or other city-centre icons and leave yyourself in a reflective, albeit puffed out, mood.

Treptower ParkWith parkland and viewpoints scattered along the banks of the Spree, a run along here can brighten a day. Interesting and enjoyable, you can stop to observe the grand Russian monument. Very popular with other runners.

SchlossparkAlong the RiAlong the River Spree in parts, this area in Charlottenburg is flat and fairly undemanding, but beautiful and inspirational. For those living in or close to the west, this is a safe and reliable bet, with some splendid views.

Berlin seen through the eyes of runners is a kostenlos view of the city. Money can stay safely in the accommodation as the mind is left to wander through the winding streets. Bring sturdy shoes as you will undoubtedly find undoubtedly find yourself running for extended periods on Berlin’s numerous pavements.

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Ice skating is the perfect way to burn off a few calories after indulging in Berlin’s Christmas fare. It is a popular winter sport, both in Berlin and in the rest of Germany.

Built in 1986, Sportforum Hohenschönhausen is a large sports complex, which caters for ice skating, swimming, running and many other activities. The ice skating arena can seat 4,695 people and is home to the “Eisbären Berlin” ice-hocpeople and is home to the “Eisbären Berlin” ice-hockey team of the Deutsche Eishockey Liga.

It’s easy enough to get to the main Sportforum, but unfortunately the ice rink is about a 10 minute walk away with unclear directions. It may be an idea to Google the exact location before venturing out – especially if it’s cold!

A unique feature of the Sportforum is its layout. There is both an ample-sian ample-sized rink in the centre of the hall and then an extra ring around the outside (the very first indoor speed skating oval track); for the more advanced skaters.

The prices are very reasonable: approximately $4 for shoe hire (depending on the size) and $3.30 for entrance. Although if you have a valid student card, the entrance is reduced to $1.60 (children’s price)! I recommend checking your European shoe size before going, as there isn’t much room to try on the skates.

In general, the ice rink is busy, but very friendly and relaxed. On FridFriday nights; all year round, the ice rink holds an “Eisdisco” from 9-11pm where upbeat music is played – this attracts both Germans and tourists.

It is suggested not to take any valuables, as the lockers don’t actually lock – they’re still programmed for Deutschmarks! However, if you did want to take a camera or put a coat away, the lockers can be closed and it’s easy to keep an eye on them from the rink.from the rink.

Eislaufen

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If you’re interested in helping out with good causes, then there are many Christmas markets that will be right up your street. A particularly interesting one to check out is the Weihnachtsbasar des CJD – A Christian Youth Work Christmas bazaar located on Friedrichstraße. It has a quaint collection of festive items, with all profits going solely to the Chancen Geber Chance Gisolely to the Chancen Geber Chance Giver charity.

“Annually, the CJD offers guidance and help for the future to around 150,000 youths and adults. The charity has 8000 members who work in more than 150 locations. The main reason for the charity is the Christian vision “No-one is to be forgotten”.” CJD helps people from all backgrounds maximise their chances in a variety of settings, whether they’re school children, refugees, settings, whether they’re school children, refugees, ex-drug addicts or people suffering in abusive relationships.

I highly recommend a visit to this exceptional bazaar, even if only to meet some of the amazing volunteers who run it.

Weihnachtsbasar

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Alexander PlatzChristmas at Alexander Platz is a hive of activity. There is, as can be expected, lots of food and drink and plenty of bars to sit down in. Hearty waffles can be bought at the Christmas market, with a with a variety of tasty toppings: warm cherries or perhaps apple sauce? Something else very tempting and highly calorific is the popular “Schneeballen” snowballs. These are balls of sweet dough coated in either chocolate or icing sugar.

If you’re feeling chilly, there are plenty of winter wwarmers on sale - a colourful selection of hats, gloves and scarves. All for a reasonable price, seeing as most of them are handmade (approximately $10 for a scarf)! Something unique about Alexander Platz’s market is the overwhelming amount of exquisitely crafted gifts. Glass work seems to be at the forefront, with wood and cewood and ceramics following closely behind.

For me, a main selling point is the exhilarating funfair rides! For thrill seekers there are a few huge rides that’ll give you a scare at a great height, but be aware that it would be a smart idea to eat AFTER going on these rides…Understandably, the bumper cars are always well receireceived, as is the haunted house. There is also a variant on spinning tea cups and of course, one can’t forget the infamous Ferris wheel – only $5 a go to enjoy an amazing view over the city.

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During the Christmas period, it’s normal for people to eat too much... and Germany is no exception! Here are a few of the top festive delicacies in Berlin…

Rather than turkey, goose is the meat of choice for Christmas dinnemeat of choice for Christmas dinner. The goose is usually stuffed and served with potato dumplings, red cabbage and a red wine sauce.

“Lebkuchen” are delightful little gingerbread cakes, covered in a thin layer of sweet icing or chocolate. A 500g bag can be chocolate. A 500g bag can be found in most supermarkets for less than $3.

Stollen is the German equivalent of Christmas cake. It is a rich fruit bread, with ingredients such as raisins and candied orange peel, plus a tangy marzipan centre.plus a tangy marzipan centre.

Many children are treated with a „Lebkuchen Haus“ - literally a gingerbread house, made with reference to the Hänsel and Gretel story. Hence why it is sometimes called a witch‘s house.

PlätPlätzchen are traditional cookies made with spices, e.g. cinnamon. There is no definitive Christmas biscuit, but you’re sure to find a large variety to enjoy. 80

The saying ‘wherever I lay my head thats my home’, is not necessarily true. So as a guideline here are a few hostels where you’re likely to find a comfortable bed and a welcoming atmosphere, all the better to explore Berlin my dear:

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HOSTELSGenerator: S Landsberger Allee,

Generator has passable dorms, a barely edible breakfast and noisy drunken teenagers bumbling around everywhere. To compensate, the place is dirt cheap. For roughly €10 a night, it will provide safe, but uninspiring accommodation. Generator is the biggest hostel in Berlin, so big in fact that it has its own bar with cubar with cut-price drinks. It runs its own daily tours and has the option of bike rental. A bit far out from the centre of Berlin, but if you really are a poor individual on a budget, this might be a life-saver.

Heart of Gold: Station: U Friedrichstraße,

Themed with Douglas Adams’ Hitchikers Guide to the Galaxy in mind, this clean, friendly hostel lies between Friedrichstraße and Oand Oranienburger Straße. With the central location in mind, one can expect to pay a little more, but for ease of getting home, after another late night, it may be worth it. A large bar and budget breakfast are added incentives, and you are bound to meet a diverse bunch of people, and hardly any will be sci-fi aficionado über-geeks.

Circus Hostel: Rosenthaler Platz U Bahn/S Bahn

Recommended several times over, the Circus hostel has lfe, soul and bundles of chic. On the ground floor you’ll find a ‘happening’ bar/cafe with a relaxed atmosphere; shamelessly exploited by visitors and appreciated by all. This funky accommodation is in a great area, and though its almost too beautiful, you’d be a fool to miss out on it. miss out on it. Rooms are airy, bright and aesthetically pleasing aswell as comfortable. You’re looking at 19 Euros for a bed in an 8 bed dorm, and 25-50 Euros for a Private with/without ensuite. In summer book in advance this venue gets overwhelmed during the holidays.

AUTHORSMarc Cervilla27, Barcelona / PolandEuropean Tour Guide

Rosie Fox 22, LondonTravel [email protected]@cent.ac.uk

Oli Galvin-Jones21, WalesJournalist

Jenna Hawkins18, WinchesterGerman Language Student

Karolin HosenfelderKarolin Hosenfelder21, BerlinJournalist / Student

Tam Lee23, PerthFilm Editor / Journalist

Will Osborn 21, Cambridge21, CambridgeFootballer, Astronaut

Ranvir Singh Bassi22, Warwickshire Graphic Designer / [email protected]

Introduction Rosie FoxHistory Rosie FoxFilms Jenna Hawkins, Rosie FoxBooks Jenna Hawkins, Rosie FoxItineries Tam LeeViewing Points Marc CervillaReichstagReichstag Will OsbornThe Topography of Terror Marc CervillaPergamon Museum Marc CervillaGDR - Eyes and Ears Marc CervillaThe Lives of Others Marc CervillaHerr Otto Weidt Marc CervillaAnne Frank Zentrum Marc CervillaPotsdamPotsdam Will OsbornShopping Jenna Hawkins, Tam LeeFlohmarkets Jenna Hawkins, Tam LeeHackesher Markt Jenna Hawkins, Tam LeeFriedrichshain vs. Savignyplatz Tam LeeBeer Oli JonesArt in Berlin Ranvir Singh BassiLittle LucyLittle Lucy Ranvir Singh BassiBaumhaus an der Mauer Ranvir Singh BassiTacheles Ranvir Singh BassiFast Food Will OsbornRestaurants Karolin HosenfelderMustafas Gemüsekebab Karolin HosenfelderHans Wurst Karolin HosenfelderBrunchBrunch Karolin HosenfelderW - Imbiss, AsianTex Mex Karolin HosenfelderNil- Imbiss Karolin HosenfelderHot- Dog- Soup Karolin HosenfelderVöner Karolin HosenfelderMorgenrot Café Karolin HosenfelderVapiano Marc CervillaBelushiBelushi’s Marc CervillaSt. Christophers Inn Rosie FoxNightlife Will OsbornGay, Out and About Rosie FoxSport Oli JonesRunning in Berlin Will OsbornIceskating Jenna HawkinsWWeihnachtsbasar Jenna HawkinsAlexander Platz Jenna HawkinsChristmas Jenna HawkinsHostels Rosie Fox

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