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973973

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Brian Feldman, Carmel Mackin, Craig Elliott, Deborah Santomero, Erika Passerini, Haley Sewell, Jonathan Del Mar, Jonathan Keohane, Kerry Poole, Matt Anness, Neil Harris, Paul Fisher, Rob McDonald, Robert Fairchild, Rolf Wrelf, Stefano Boffetta, Suzanne Tiller

WRITER THANKSGregor ClarkSincere thanks to the many Sardinians who so gen-erously shared their time, insights and love of place, particularly Mario and Frédérique in Nuoro, Daria in Santa Teresa, Simonetta in Olbia, Riky in Lotzorai, Laura in San Pantaleo, and Kevin and Rodolfo in Palau. Finally, hugs to my wife Gaen and daughters Meigan and Chloe, who always make coming home the best part of the trip.

Peter DragicevichIt turns out that it’s not hard to find willing vol-unteers to keep you company on an extended research assignment in Venice, especially when it coincides with Carnevale. Many thanks to my Venice crew of Christine Henderson, Hamish Blen-nerhassett and Sarah Welch for much masked fun and many good meals. Special thanks to Christine for the unpaid but much appreciated translation services.

Hugh McNaughtanThanks for the patience and support of Tasmin, Anna, my girls, the Lonely Planet tech team and the kind people I met in Italy, who made the research not just possible, but a pleasure.

Donna WheelerThanks to Wayne Young, Elena Ciurletti, Gianluca Cannizzo, Emanuela Grandi, Stefano Libardi and the ultra-helpful Duparc Suites team for inspiring local knowledge. To Kathrin Mair, Verena Huf, Caroline Willeit, Antonella Arlotti, Virginia Ciraldo, Elena Boggio, Matteo Paini and Laura Sailis, grazie for gracious, warm hospitality. Soprattutto, molto amore a Giuseppe Giuseppe Guario.

Nicola WilliamsGrazie mille to those who shared their love and insider knowledge with me: in Rome Linda Martinez (The Beehive), Elyssa Bernard, tour guide Fiona Brewer, Sian Lloyd and Lorna Davidson (Roman Guy), Gina Tringali and Eleonora Baldwin at Casa Mia. In Tuscany, Manuele Giovanelli and Zeno Fioravanti, Doreen and Carmello at Florence’s Hotel Scoti, Georgette Jupe, Coral Sisk, Nardia Plumridge, Molly Mcllwrath, Cailin Swanson and Betti Soldi. Finally, kudos to my expert, trilingual, family-travel research team: Niko, Mischa and Kaya.

Cristian BonettoMille grazie to Raffaele e Silvana, Joe Brizzi, Alfonso Sperandeo, Carmine Romano, Sylvain Bellenger, Federica Rispoli, the team at Cooperativa La Paranza, Vincenzo Mattiucci, Marcantonio Colonna

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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and the many other friends and locals who of-fered invaluable tips and insight. At Lonely Planet, many thanks to Anna Tyler and my ever-diligent Italy writing team.

Kerry ChristianiMille grazie to all the Sardinian locals, experts and tourism officials who made the road to research smooth and provided such valuable in-sight for the Planning and Understand chapters. Big thanks, too, go to my fellow authors – Duncan Garwood and Gregor Clark – for being such stars to work with.

Marc Di DucaA big grazie mille goes to the many tourist offices around the Veneto, especially those in Verona, Vicenza, Padua and Mantua, as well as to Antonio in Belluno. Also huge thanks to Ukrainian grandma and grandpa for looking after my two sons while I was in Italy, and to my wife for suffering my lengthy absences.

Duncan GarwoodA big thank you to Giacomo Bassi for his brilliant tips and suggestions. In Sardinia, grazie to every-one who helped and offered advice, in particular Luisa Besalduch, Agostino Rivano, Marianna Mascalchi, Valentina Sanna, Marco Vacca, and the tourist office teams at Alghero, Sassari and Castelsardo. At Lonely Planet, thanks to Anna Tyler for all her support. And, as always, a big, heartfelt hug to Lidia and the boys, Ben and Nick.

Paula HardyGrazie mille to all the fun and fashionable Vene-tians and Milanese who spilled the beans on their remarkable cities: Paola dalla Valentina, Costanza Cecchini, Sara Porro, Lucia Cattaneo, Monica Cesarato, Francesca Giubilei, Luca Berta, Marco Secchi and Nan McElroy. Thanks, too, to coauthors Regis and Marc for their contributions, and to Anna Tyler for all the support. Finally, much love to Rob for sharing the beauty of the bel paese.

Virginia MaxwellSo many locals assisted me in my research for this trip. Many thanks to Tiziana Babbucci, Fernando Bardini, Maricla Bicci, Niccolò Bisconti,

Enrico Bracciali, Rita Ceccarelli, Cecilia in Massa Marittima, Stefania Colombini, Ilaria Crescioli, Martina Dei, Paolo Demi, Federica Fantozzi, Irene Gavazzi, Francesco Gentile, Francesca Geppetti, Maria Guarriello, Benedetta Landi, Freya Mid-dleton, Alessandra Molletti, Sonai Pallai, Luigi Pagnotta, Valentina De Pamphilis, Franco Rossi, Fabiana Sciano, Maria Luisa Scorza, Raffaella Sen-esi, Coral Sisk, Carolina Taddei and Luca Ventresa. Many thanks, too, to my travelling companions: Peter Handsaker, Eveline Zoutendijk, Max Hand-saker, Elizabeth Maxwell, Matthew Clarke and Ella Clarke.

Kevin RaubThanks to my wife, Adriana Schmidt Raub, who probably can’t remember who I am at this point! Anna Tyler, Gregor Clark and all at Lonely Planet. On the road, Alice Brignani (always willing to wave her magic wand), Emanuela Boni, Barbara Candolofini, Francesca Soffici, Michela Iorio, Stefania Sala, Jen Wittman, Giovanni Pellegrini, Errica Dall’Ara, Claudia Valentini, Franca Rastelli, Sara Laghi, Maria Marini, Beatrice Morlunghi and Sviluppumbria, Ubaldo Casoli, Marta Paraventi, Lia Sciarra, Sabrina Pasqualoni, Valeria Giroldini and Maria Talamè.

Regis St LouisI’m grateful to the countless tourist office staff, innkeepers, chefs, baristas, market vendors, store clerks, students and many other locals who pro-vided helpful tips and advice along the way. Warm thanks to Cassandra and daughters Magdalena and Genevieve, who make this enterprise all the more worthwhile.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlay-son BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classifica-tion’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44.Cover photograph: Manarola, Cinque Terre, ronnybas/Getty ©Illustrations pp76-7, pp356-7, pp486-7, pp694-5 by Javier Martinez Zarracina.

975BEH

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THIS BOOKThis 13th edition of Lonely Planet’s Italy guidebook was researched and written by Gregor Clark, Peter Drag-icevich, Hugh McNaughtan, Brendan Sainsbury, Donna Wheeler, Nicola Williams, Cristian Bonetto, Kerry Chris-tiani, Marc Di Duca, Duncan Garwood, Paula Hardy, Vir-ginia Maxwell, Kevin Raub and Regis St Louis.

This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Anna TylerProduct Editors Alison Ridgway, Anne MasonSenior Cartographer Anthony PhelanBook Designer Clara MonittoAssisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Andrew Bain, Carolyn Bain, James Bainbridge, Bridget Blair, Katie Connolly, Michelle Coxall, Samantha Forge, Carly Hall, Gabrielle Innes, Kate James, Jodie Martire, Kate Morgan,

Kristin Odijk, Monique Perrin, Sarah Reid, Gabrielle Stefanos, Saralinda Turner, Fionnuala Twomey, Simon WilliamsonAssisting Cartographers Julie Dodkins, Mick Garrett, Corey Hutchison, Rachel ImesonAssisting Book Designer Nicholas ColicchiaCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Imogen Bannister, Carolyn Boicos, Grace Dobell, Sasha Drew, Lauren Keith, Anne Mason, Catherine Naghtan, Claire Naylor, Lauren O’Connell, Martine Power, Kirsten Rawlings

976

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

Aabbeys, see monasteries &

conventsAbruzzo 59, 633, 636-48,

634-5accommodation 633climate 633food 633highlights 634travel seasons 633

accommodation 22, 948-51, see also individual locations

agriturismi 949-50costs 949language 968

activities 29-32, 46-53, see also individual activities

Aeolian Islands 798-809Agrigento 834-8, 835, 843agriturismi 949-50air travel

airlines 960airports 960to/from Italy 960within Italy 963

Alba 217-21Alberobello 737-8, 730Alessi 270Alghero 868-72, 869Alpe di Fanes 328-9Alpe di Siusi 325-8, 326-7Altipiano della Paganella 309-10Altopiano del Golgo 887-8Amalfi 702-4, 13Amalfi Coast 12, 702-18Ancona 616-21, 616Anzio 162Aosta 230-4, 232Appennino Lucano 765-6Appian Way 97-8, 98

Aquileia 416-17Arbus 861archaeological sites & ruins

Ancient Rome 68-77Aosta 233Area Archeologica di

Tharros 866Brescia 293Coddu Ecchju 878Colosseum 70-1, 924,

10-11, 70, 924-5Complesso Monumentale

di San Lorenzo Maggiore 657, 659

Herculaneum 686-7, 689, 690-1, 688

La Pineta 650Metaponto 764Museo Nazionale di Locri

Epizephyrii 773Necropoli di

Banditaccia 155Necropoli di Pantalica 821Necropoli di Tarquinia 156Nora 859Nuraghe di Santa Cristina

868Nuraghe Su Nuraxi 861Oplontis 675Ostia Antica 152-3Paestum 689, 715-16, 688Palatino 72-3, 72Parco Archeologico ‘Città

del Tufo’ 549Parco Archeologico della

Neapolis 824-5Parco Archeologico di

Grumentum 766Pompeii 12, 689, 691-8,

693, 13, 688-9, 694-5Rocca 395Roman Forum 74-7, 74,

76-7Ruins of Segesta 846Ruins of Selinunte 840Saepinum 649Teatro Greco 811, 842

Teatro Romano e Museo Archeologico 385

Terme di Caracalla 97Valley of the Temples 834,

837, 843, 837, 843Via Appia Antica 97-8, 98Villa Adriana 153-4Villa Jovis 677Villa Romana 285Villa Romana del Casale

843, 842architecture 921-8Arcipelago di La Maddalena

881-2area codes 956Arezzo 571-4, 572Arona 268art 909-21, 912-15

courses 120-1, 359, 362, 465

art galleries, see galleriesAscoli Piceno 628-31Asolo 395-6Assisi 593-600, 594, 596-7Asti 225-7ATMs 955Augustus 898

BB&Bs 948Badia 639Badia a Passignano 526-7Barbaresco 222-3Bardolino 288-9Bari 722-6, 723Barolo 221-2basilicas, see also churches

& cathedralsBasilica della Santa Casa

620Basilica di San Clemente

94-5Basilica di San Francesco

593, 596-7Basilica di San Giovanni in

Laterano 93-4, 597

Basilica di San Lorenzo 493

Basilica di San Marco (Rome) 69

Basilica di San Marco (Venice) 340-1, 924, 386-7

Basilica di San Nicola 722Basilica di San Paolo Fuori

le Mura 97Basilica di San Pietro 581Basilica di San Vitale 464Basilica di San Zeno

Maggiore 388Basilica di Santa Caterina

d’Alessandria 751Basilica di Santa Chiara

595Basilica di Santa Croce

(Florence) 496Basilica di Santa Croce

(Lecce) 744, 19Basilica di Santa Maria

Assunta 416Basilica di Santa Maria

del Popolo 103, 107Basilica di Santa Maria

della Salute 353Basilica di Santa Maria in

Trastevere 99, 101Basilica di Santa Maria

Maggiore (Bergamo) 291

Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore (Rome) 89-92

Basilica di Santa Maria Novella 491-2

Basilica di Santa Maria Sopra Minerva 82

Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio 248

Basilica di Sant’Anastasia 384-5

Basilica di Sant’Antonio 379-80

Basilica di Sant’Apollinare in Classe 464-5

Basilica di Sant’Apollinare Nuovo 464

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

97 7IN

DEX B

– C

Basilica di Santo Stefano 431

Basilica Santuario della Madonna di San Luca 434

Complesso Monumentale di Santa Chiara 653, 656

Complesso Monumentale di Santa Chiara 653

St Peter’s Basilica 110-11, 2, 110, 913

Zanipolo 345-6Basilicata 60, 719, 756-69,

720-1accommodation 719climate 719food 719highlights 720-1travel seasons 719

Bassano del Grappa 394-5bathrooms 957Baunei 887-8Bay of Naples 675-86beaches 27

Anguillara Sabazi 156Cagliari 851Cala Gonone 889Cefalù 797Chia 859Coasta Verde 861Costa Rei 858Costa Smeralda 879Elba 558Ischia 683Lipari 800Otranto 752Pesaro 625Porto Conte 873Positano 705Punta San Vigilio 288Riomaggiore 187, 191,

187Santa Teresa di Gallura

880Sardinia 16, 857, 17Sinis Peninsula 866Stintino 873-4Stromboli 808Taormina 811Trieste 407Vasto 648Venice 347, 373Vieste 729Villasimius 858

Bellagio 275-8Belluno 398-9Benigni, Roberto 940Bergamo 289-93, 290

Berlusconi, Silvio 907-8bicycle travel, see cyclingBiennale di Venezia 30boat travel

to/from Italy 619, 725, 777, 962, 963

within Italy 964Bologna 431-43, 436-7,

445accommodation 437-9courses 435-7drinking 441-2entertainment 442-3festivals 437food 439-41nightlife 441-2shopping 443sights 431-5tourist information 443tours 435travel to/from 443, 446travel within 446

Bolsena 156Bolzano 312-18, 313Bomerano 709books 892, 937-8

art history 916, 920cooking 941, 943history 904, 906, 907

border crossings 961Borromean Islands 265-8,

276Bosa 867-8Botticelli 488-9, 14Bova 774, 731Bra 223Bramante, Donato 914Brenta Dolomites 308-12Brenta Riviera 377-8Brescia 293-4Bressanone 330-1Brindisi 749-51, 750Brisighella 472-3Brunelleschi, Filippo 478-9,

912Brunico 331-2budgeting 21Buonarroti, Michelangelo

111, 113, 115, 489, 490, 193, 494-5, 915, 919, 922, 927, 913

bus travelto/from Italy 961within Italy 964, 966

bushwalking, see hikingbusiness hours 21, 956Bussana Vecchia 197Busseto 457-8Byzantine art 910

CCaesar, Julius 896-7Cagliari 851-7, 852, 864Cala Gonone 888-90Cala Mariolu 888, 864-5Calabria 60, 769-80, 720-1

accommodation 719climate 719food 719highlights 720-1travel seasons 719

Calvino, Italo 937Camogli 179-80Campania 59, 654-5

accommodation 652climate 652food 652highlights 654history 689travel seasons 652

campgrounds 949Campobasso 649Cannobio 267-8cannoli 804, 19, 804Canova, Antonio 396canyoning 287Capitoline Museums

78-9, 78Capo Carbonara 858Capo Vaticano 779Capri 675-81, 676car travel

driving licences 965driving tours 500, 530-1,

643, 735, 822, 859, 530, 643, 735, 822

road distances 964road rules 965to/from Italy 961-2within Italy 964-5

Caravaggio 918, 919, 922Carloforte 860Carnic Alps 426-7Carofiglio, Gianrico 938Castel Gandolfo 161Castelbuono 798Castelli Romani 160-1Castellina in Chianti 529Castelmezzano 765-6Castelrotto 325castles

Castel del Monte 727Castel dell’Ovo 667-8Castel Nuovo 667Castel Roncolo 314Castello Aragonese 682Castello Aragonese

Otranto 752

Castello di Brolio 533, 531

Castello di Miramare 403

Castello Estense 458Castello Malaspina 867Castello Sforzesco 247Castello Svevo 723

Castro 753catacombs

Catacombe dei Cappuccini 789

Catacombe di San Callisto 99

Catacombe di San Gennaro 661

Catacombe di San Giovanni 825

Catacombe di San Sebastiano 98-9

Naples 689, 689Catania 814-20, 816cathedrals, see basilicas,

churches & cathedralscaves, see also sassi

Chiesetta di Piedigrotta 780

Grotta Azzurra 678Grotta del Blue Marino

889Grotta dello Smeraldo

703Grotta di Byron 194Grotta di Ispinigoli 886Grotta di Nettuno 873Grotta Gigante 414Grotta Monte Cucco 604Grotta Zinzulusa 753Grotte di Castelcivita

716-17Grotte di Castellana 739Grotte di Pertosa 717Naples 666Orvieto Underground

610-11Pitigliano 548Santuario di San

Francesco di Paola 770Santuario di San Michele

733Cefalù 796-8cell phones 956Cernobbio 278-9Cerveteri 155-6chapels, see basilicas,

churches & cathedralsChia 859Chianti 525-33, 530, 12,

26, 530-1Chieti 647-8children, travel with 54-6

978

IND

EX C –

F

churches & cathedrals, see also basilicas

Cappella degli Scrovegni 378, 15

Cappella Sansevero 656-7

Cattedrale di Monreale 796

Cattedrale di Palermo 789

Cattedrale di San Lorenzo (Genoa) 170

Cattedrale di San Lorenzo (Perugia) 580

Cattedrale di San Martino 567

Cattedrale di San Panfilo 638

Cattedrale di Santa Maria della Purificazione 651

Chiesa del Gesù 89Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo

657Chiesa del Santissimo

Redentore 353Chiesa di San Fermo 383Chiesa di San Giorgio

Maggiore 353-5Chiesa di San Luigi dei

Francesi 83Chiesa di Santa Maria

dei Miracoli 347Chiesa di Santa Maria

della Consolazione 592

Duomo di Orvieto 610Duomo (Florence)

478-80, 924, 554, 913, 925

Duomo (Milan) 243, 924, 924

Duomo (Modena) 446-7Duomo (Naples) 659-60Duomo (Ortygia) 823,

842-3Duomo (Salerno) 713Duomo (Siena) 516Duomo (Verona) 385I Frari 351Lecce Cathedral 744-5Museo delle Cappelle

Medicee 493Otranto Cathedral 752Pantheon 84-5, 84Pieve di San Zeno 288

sassi (cave) churches 757-9, 760

Tempio Malatestiano 469Cilento Coast 715cinema 892, 939-40Cinque Terre 16, 184-92,

184, 16, 186-7Cinque Torri 399Cisternino 739Città del Tufo 547-50Cividale del Friuli 424-5Civitella Alfedena 644climate 20, 29-32, see also

individual regionsclimbing 50-1clothes 22coffee 428-9, 944, 428-9Colli Euganei 379Colosseum 70-1, 924,

10-11, 70, 924-5Como 270-4, 272Conegliano 397-8Constantine 899consulates 952convents, see monasteries

& conventscooking courses 120, 275,

435, 437, 746Corniglia 189-90Cortina d’Ampezzo 399-400,

15Cortona 574-5Cosenza 770-1Costa del Sud 859Costa Rei 858-9Costa Smeralda 878-9Costa Verde 861costs 21

accommodation 949food 952

Courmayeur 234-7courses

art 120-1, 359, 362, 465cooking 120, 275, 435,

437, 746language 120, 359, 583photography 362

crafts 360-1credit cards 955Cremona 298-9Crotone 773culture 892-3, 929-36Cuneo 228-9currency 20, 955customs regulations 951cycling 50, 963-4

Chianti 526Florence 500Lago d’Iseo 281

Malcesine 287Procida 685San Remo 197Trieste 407Val di Sole 311Valtenesi 283-4Vieste 729

Dda Vinci, Leonardo 912,

914-15Dante 937Deledda, Grazia 883design 252-3, 934, 252-3disabilities, travellers

with 958discount cards 951diving 51, 53

Alghero 870Arcipelago di La

Maddalena 881Ischia 682-3Isola dell’Asinara 874Isole Tremiti 736Lipari 801Otranto 752Riomaggiore 191-2Taormina 812

Dolomites 15, 322-32, 15, 326-7

Donatello 490, 493, 912, 919, 915

Dorgali 885-7drinks 944-6, see also wine

regionscoffee 428-9, 944,

428-9language 970

driving, see car traveldriving tours

Abruzzo 643, 643Chianti 530-1, 530Florence 500Sicily 822, 822southern Italy 735, 735Strada Panoramica

della Costa del Sud 859

Duomo, see churches & cathedrals

Eearthquakes 892Eco, Umberto 938economy 893Elba 556-9electricity 952embassies 952

emergencies 21language 970

Emilia-Romagna 14, 58, 430, 431-73, 432-3

accommodation 430climate 430food 430highlights 432-3travel seasons 430

Ercolano 686-7, 689, 690-1, 688

Erice 845-6Estate Romana 30-1etiquette 23Euganean Hills 379events 29-32exchange rates 21

Ffarm stays 949-50fashion 258-9, 932, 258-9Ferrara 458-62, 459Ferraris 449ferry travel

to/from Italy 619, 725, 777, 962, 963

within Italy 964festivals 29-32Fiè allo Sciliar 325films 892, 939-40Finale Ligure 196-7Florence 59, 475, 478-515,

480, 482-3, 494, 497, 498, 554, 925

accommodation 475, 501-3

art 912climate 475drinking 509-12entertainment 512festivals 501food 475, 503-9highlights 476medical services 514museum tickets 479nightlife 509-12shopping 512-14sights 478-500tourist information 515tours 500-1travel seasons 475travel to/from 515travel within 515

Fontanella 709food 25, 39-45, 732, 941-6,

see also individual locations

books 941, 943cannoli 804, 19, 804

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

979IN

DEX F –

Jchildren’s 55, 56cooking courses 120,

275, 435, 437, 746costs 952itineraries 45, 45language 969prosciutto 425Sicilian desserts 804,

804-5Slow Food movement

943truffles 218, 218-19

football 934-5Milan 247Naples 673Rome 144Turin 214

Foresta Umbra 734forts

Forte di Bard 234Forte di Belvedere 500Fortezza Orsini 549Rocca Albornoziana

604-5Rocca di Brisighella

472-3Rocca Maggiore 595

Forum, Roman 74-7, 74, 76-7

Franciacorta 281Frascati 160-1Freedom Trail 640Friuli Venezia Giulia 58,

401-27, 402accommodation 401climate 401food 401highlights 402history 402-3travel seasons 401travel to/from 403

Friulian Coast 416-18

GGaiole in Chianti 532-3Galatina 751Galleria degli Uffizi 485-90,

14, 486-7galleries, see also

museumsAccademia Carrara 291Basilica Palladiana 392Castello di Rivoli 203Fondazione Prada 248Galleria Continua 535Galleria d’Arte Moderna

Achille Forti 383Galleria degli Uffizi 485-

90, 14, 486-7

Galleria dell’Accademia 494-5

Galleria di Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano 665-6

Galleria Nazionale delle Marche 622-3

Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria 580

Gallerie dell’Accademia 353

La Galleria Nazionale 119Museo del Novecento

243Palazzo Barberini 108-9Palazzo Reale di

Capodimonte 668Palazzo Strozzi 491Pinacoteca Comunale di

Ancona 616-17Pinacoteca di Brera 246Pinacoteca Nazionale

(Cagliari) 853Pinacoteca Nazionale

(Siena) 517, 520Scuola Grande di San

Rocco 352Gallipoli 753-4Gambarie 774gardens, see parks &

gardensGardone Riviera 285Gargano Promontory 445,

728-9, 730, 732-4, 445gay travellers 140, 954Genoa 165-78, 172-3

accommodation 171-4activities 171drinking 176-7entertainment 177festivals 171food 174-6nightlife 176-7shopping 177-8sights 165, 168-71tourist information 178travel to/from 178travel within 178

Gentileschi, Artemesia 911Gerace 774Ghiberti, Lorenzo 912Giolitti, Giovanni 904Giotto 911, 912, 916Giulie Alps 427glass 360, 374-5, 360-1Gola Su Gorropu 885-6,

864-5Golfo dei Poeti 192-5Golfo di Orosei 888-90, 17,

864-5

Gorizia 414-15Grado 417-18Gravina Gorge 760Greve in Chianti 525-6Grotta Azzurra 678Grotta di Ispinigoli 886, 865Grotte di Castellana 739Grumentum 766Gubbio 601-4, 602

Hhealth 952-3Herculaneum 686-7, 689,

690-1, 688hiking 46-50

Altopiano del Golgo 887Amalfi Coast 709Cala Goloritzè Trail 887Camogli 179Cannobio 267Cinque Terre 184-5Gola Su Gorropu 885-6Lipari 802Maritime Alps 229Mont Blanc 235-6Monte Epomeo 682Parco Naturale Regionale

di Portofino 181Parco Nazionale

d’Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise 644, 645

Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini 630

Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano 717

Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga 636

Riomaggiore 191Salina 806Sentiero della Libertà

640Vieste 729Vulcano 803

history 894-90820th century 904-7city-states 902-3Etruscans 894-5Roman Empire 898-902Roman Republic 895-7

holidays 956hostels 950hot springs

Bagni San Filippo 543Euganean Hills 379Laghetto di Fanghi 803Pré-Saint-Didier 235Sirmione 283

Terme di Saturnia 547Terme Merano 319, 327

hotels 950

IIglesias 860Il Carso 413-14immigrants 930-1immigration 960insurance

car 961health 952-3travel 953

internet access 953Ionian Coast (Calabria)

772-4Ionian Coast (Sicily)

809-21Ischia 682-5Iseo 280Isernia 650Isola Bella 265-6, 276Isola dei Pescatori 266Isola del Garda 284Isola d’Elba 556-9Isola dell’Asinara 873-4Isola di Dino 770Isola di San Pietro 860Isola di Sant’Antioco 860Isola di Vivara 685Isola Superiore 266Isole Pontine 163Isole Tremiti 734, 736Italian language 23, 929,

968-72Italian Riviera 57, 114, 165-

99, 166-7accommodation 164climate 164courses 120, 359, 583food 164highlights 166-7travel seasons 164

itineraries 33-8, 33, 34, 35, 37, 36, 38, see also driving tours

food 45, 45wine 530-1, 530

JJewish sites

Ghetto (Venice) 348-9Jewish Ghetto (Rome) 89Miqwe (Syracuse) 823Museo Ebraico 349

Joyce, James 404-5, 410Juventus 214

980

IND

EX K –

M

Kkayaking 53

Bellagio 275Innamorta 558Venice 358-9Vulcano 803

Keats, John 102

LLa Morra 224-5La Spezia 192-3Lago di Bolsena 156Lago di Bracciano 156Lago di Como 17, 270-80,

272, 17, 276Lago di Garda 281-9, 276Lago d’Iseo 280-1Lago d’Orta 268-70Lago Maggiore 263-8, 276Lago Trasimeno 589-91Laguna di Marano 417Lakes region 57, 263-89,

240-1accommodation 239climate 239food 239highlights 240travel seasons 239

Lamborghinis 449Langhe, the 216-27language 23, 929, 968-72

courses 120, 359, 583L’Aquila 637Last Supper, The 247Lazio 57, 62, 152-63, 64-5,

154Le Castella 773-4Le Marche 59, 576, 615-32,

578-9accommodation 576climate 576food 576highlights 578history 615travel seasons 576travel to/from 615

Leaning Tower of Pisa 560, 925

Lecce 19, 743-9, 744, 19, 731legal matters 953-4Lenno 278-9Leone, Sergio 940Lerici 194-5LGBT travellers 140, 954

Liguria 165-99, 168-9Limone Piemonte 229Lipari 799-802, 800literature 937-8, see

also booksLivorno 550-6, 552local transport 965-6Locorotondo 738-9Locri 773Loreto 620Lotto, Lorenzo 292Lovere 280Lucanian Apennines 765-6Lucca 565-70, 566, 554-5

MMacerata 626-8Madonie Mountains 798Madonna di Campiglio

310-11Malcesine 287-8Manarola 187, 190-1, 186Mantegna, Andrea 912Mantua 294-8, 296maps 954-5Maratea 767-9Marciana 559Marciana Marina 559Maritime Alps 229markets 27Marsala 839-40Martina Franca 740-1Massa Marittima 545-7masserias 740Matera 730, 757-64, 758,

730-1Matera Gravina 760measures 955media 955medical services 953Merano 319-21, 327Metaponto 764Michelangelo 111, 113, 115,

490, 493, 494-5, 919, 922, 927, 913

Milan 57, 239, 242-61, 244-5, 248-9, 258-9, 924

accommodation 239, 250-1

activities 249climate 239design 252-3, 252-3drinking 255-6entertainment 256-7festivals 250food 239, 251-5highlights 240history 242-3

itineraries 242medical services 260nightlife 255-6shopping 257, 260, 261sights 243-9tourist information 260tours 250travel seasons 239travel to/from 260travel within 260-1

Milky Way 227-8mobile phones 956Modena 446-51, 447Modica 831-2Molise 59, 633, 648-51,

634-5accommodation 633climate 633food 633highlights 634travel seasons 633

monasteries & conventsAbbazia di

Montecassino 152Abbazia di San Fruttuoso

di Capodimonte 181Abbazia di Santo Spirito

Al Morrone 639accommodation 949Badia a Passignano

526-7Cenacolo di Sant’Apollonia

496Certosa di Pavia 261-2Certosa di San Giacomo

678Certosa di San Lorenzo

717Eremo di Sant’Onofrio al

Morrone 639Marienberg 322Santa Caterina del Sasso

263Santuario della Madonna

del Carmine 283Mondello 796money 20, 21, 23, 955-6Monreale 796Montalcino 540-2Monte Isola 280-1Monte Sant’Angelo 732-3Montepertuso 709Montepulciano 544-5Monterosso 185-8Monti Sibillini 444-5, 630,

445Monza 262-3motorcycle travel

to/from Italy 961-2within Italy 964-5

Mt Etna 18, 820-1, 18Mt Vesuvius 691Muggia 413Murano 355

glass 360, 374-5, 360-1museums, see also

galleriesCa’ Pesaro 350Capitoline Museums

78-9, 78Certosa e Museo di San

Martino 664-5Gallerie d’Italia 243Museale Santa Maria

della Scala 517Museo Archeologico

Nazionale (Cagliari) 851

Museo Archeologico Nazionale d’Abruzzo 647

Museo Archeologico Nazionale delle Marche 616

Museo Archeologico Nazionale dell’Umbria 580

Museo Archeologico Nazionale (Naples) 660-1, 664

Museo Archeologico Regionale Eoliano 799

Museo Archeologico Regionale (Palermo) 790

Museo del Bargello 490, 915

Museo di Arte Moderna e Contemporanea Rovereto 308

Museo di San Marco 495Museo e Galleria

Borghese 118-19Museo Egizio 202Museo Etnografico Sardo

882-3Museo Nazionale

Archeologico di Taranto 755

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Medievale e Moderna della Basilicata 760

Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia 247

Museo Nazionale di Reggio Calabria 775

Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Massimo alle Terme 93

Museo Novecento 493Palazzo Ducale 337, 340

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

981IN

DEX M

– P

Palazzo Leoni Montanari 392

Palazzo Vecchio 481, 484-5

Vatican Museums 112-15, 112

music 935Mussolini, Benito 905-6

NNaples 15, 59, 652, 653-75,

656, 658, 662-5, 15, 689

accommodation 652, 669-70

catacombs 689, 689climate 652drinking 672-3entertainment 673festivals 669food 652, 670-2highlights 654history 653medical services 674nightlife 672-3shopping 673-4sights 653-68tourist information 674tours 668-9travel seasons 652travel to/from 674travel within 675

Narni 592national parks & reserves

49, see also parks & gardens

Le Prigionette Nature Reserve 873

Parco Archeologico Rocca di Manerba 283

Parco del Conero 621-2Parco dell’Etna 820Parco Naturale Regionale

delle Madonie 798Parco Naturale Regionale

di Portofino 181Parco Naturale

Sciliar-Catinaccio 325Parco Nazionale

d’Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise 644-5

Parco Nazionale dei Monti Sibillini 630

Parco Nazionale del Cilento e Vallo di Diano 716-18

Parco Nazionale del Gargano 728

Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso 19, 237-8, 19

Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga 636-7

Parco Nazionale del Pollino 768

Parco Nazionale della Majella 640-2

Parco Nazionale della Sila 771-2

Parco Nazionale Dell’Appennino Lucano 765

Parco Nazionale dell’ Appennino Tosco- Emiliano 451-2

Parco Nazionale dell’Arcipelago di La Maddalena 881

Parco Nazionale dell’ Aspromonte 730, 774-5, 731

Parco Nazionale delle Dolomiti Bellunesi 398

Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 321

Parco Regionale del Monte Cucco 604

Parco Regionale della Maremma 550

Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro 841

Riserva Naturale Regionale della Valle Cavanata 418

Riserva Naturale Regionale Foce dell’Isonzo 418

Neive 225Nervi 179newspapers 955Nocelle 704-5, 709Nora 859Norcia 608-10Noto 829-31Nuoro 882-4nuraghi 871

OOlbia 876-7Oliena 884-5opening hours 21, 956opera 935-6Opi 644Oristano 861-3, 862Orrido di Sant’Anna 267Orta San Giulio 268-9Ortisei 324Ortygia 823-9, 826, 842-3Orvieto 610-15, 612Ostia Antica 152-3

Ostuni 741-3Otranto 751-3Ötzi 314Ovid 937

PPacentro 641-2Padua 378-82, 386-7, 380,

15, 387Paestum 689, 715-16, 688palaces 27

Palazzo Borromeo 265Palazzo dei Normanni

789Palazzo dei Priori 580Palazzo del Bò 379Palazzo del Quirinale

107-8Palazzo Ducale

(Mantua) 295Palazzo Ducale (Urbino)

622Palazzo Ducale (Venice)

337, 340, 386-7Palazzo Farnese 88-9Palazzo Reale (Milan)

243Palazzo Reale (Naples)

666Reggia di Caserta 697Villa Medici 102-3

Palatino 72-3, 72Palau 881-2Palermo 785-95, 786-7, 7

accommodation 791-2drinking 793entertainment 793-4festivals 791food 792-3medical services 794nightlife 793shopping 794sights 785-91tourist information 794transport to/from 794-5travel within 795

Palladio, Andrea 915Palmanova 415-16Pantheon 84-5, 84Panzano in Chianti 528Paola 770paper 360papier-mâché 748Parco del Conero 621-2Parco Nazionale d’Abruzzo,

Lazio e Molise 644-5Parco Nazionale del

Cilento e Vallo di Diano 716-18

Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso 19, 237-8, 19

Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga 636-7

Parco Nazionale del Pollino 768

Parco Nazionale della Majella 640-2

Parco Nazionale della Sila 771-2

Parco Nazionale dell’ Appennino Tosco- Emiliano 451-2

Parco Nazionale dell’ Aspromonte 730, 774-5, 731

Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio 321

parks & gardens 27-8, see also national parks & reserves

Castel Trauttmansdorff 319

Giardini Botanici Hanbury 199

Giardini di Augusto 678Giardini di Villa Barberini

161Giardini Pubblici 345Giardino Botanico Alpinia

263-4Giardino di Boboli 497,

499Giardino Giusti 385La Foce 540La Mortella 682Orto Botanico (Cagliari)

853Orto Botanico (Padua)

380Orto Botanico (Rome)

101Orto e Museo Botanico

(Pisa) 564Parco del Cardeto 617Parco di Monza 262Villa Balbianello 278Villa Borghese 119Villa Doria Pamphilj

102Villa Rufolo 710Villa Serbelloni 275Villa Taranto 266

Parma 452-7, 454passports 960Pavarotti, Luciano 448Pavia 261-2Pellestrina 371Penisola Salentina

743-56Pentidàttilo 774

982

IND

EX P –

S

Perugia 577-88, 582accommodation 584courses 583drinking 586entertainment 586festivals 583-4food 584-6nightlife 586shopping 587sights 580-3tourist information 587travel to/from 587travel within 587-8

Pesaro 625-6Pescara 645-7Pescasseroli 644Peschici 733-4, 444-5Pescocostanzo 641Petralia Soprana 798Petralia Sottana 798Piano Grande 610Piedmont 18, 57, 164, 199-

230, 166-7, 200-1accommodation 164climate 164food 164highlights 166-7travel seasons 164

Pienza 542-3, 554Pietrapertosa 765-6Pietrasanta 570-1Pinzolo 310-11Pisa 560-5, 562-3, 925Pitigliano 547-8Pizzo 780planning

budgeting 21calendar of events 29-32children, travel with 54-6climate 20, 29-32first-time visitors 22-3internet resources 21, 892itineraries 33-8, 45, 530-1,

33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 45, 530

Italy basics 20-1Italy’s regions 57-60repeat visitors 24travel seasons 20, 29-32

Po Delta 467Po Plain 289-99Poggio 559police 954Polignano a Mare 727-8

politics 892-3Pollara 806Pollenzo 223Pompeii 12, 689, 691-8,

693, 13, 688-9, 694-5population 893Porto Venere 193-4Portoferraio 556-8Portofino 180-2Positano 705-8, 706postal services 956Potenza 765Praiano 708-10Procida 685-6Promontorio del Gargano

445, 728-9, 730, 732-4, 444-5

prosciutto 425public holidays 956public transport 965-6Puglia 60, 719, 722-56,

720-1accommodation 719climate 719food 719highlights 720-1travel seasons 719

Punta San Viglio 288

RRadda in Chianti 529, 532,

530-1radio 955Ragusa 832-4Rapallo 183-4Ravello 710-11, 28Ravenna 462-7, 463refugees 893Reggia di Caserta 697Reggio di Calabria 775-7,

776religion 893, 931Renaissance 912-15Renzi, Matteo 908Rimini 467-72, 468Riomaggiore 187, 191-2, 187Riserva Naturale dello

Zingaro 841Riserva Naturale Torre

Salsa 838Riva del Garda 285-7Riviera del Corallo 872-3Riviera di Levante 178-84Riviera di Ponente 195-9road distances 964rock climbing 50-1Roghudi 774Roman Forum 74-7, 74, 76-7

Rome 11, 57, 62, 63-152, 64-5, 66, 80-1, 86-7, 90-1, 94, 96, 98, 100, 106-7, 116-17, 120, 10-11

accommodation 62, 122-8

climate 62courses 120-1drinking 137-42entertainment 142-4festivals 121-2food 62, 128-37highlights 64-5history 63, 68internet access 147medical services 148neighbourhoods 66-7nightlife 137-42shopping 144-7sights 68-119tourist information 148tours 121travel seasons 62travel to/from 149-50travel within 150-2

Romeo and Juliet 383, 386, 387

Romulus & Remus 72-3, 78, 895

Rovereto 308

SSabaudia 162Saepinum 649sailing 52Salento 730, 743-56, 731Salerno 711-15, 712Salina 806-7Saline di Trapani 839Salò 284-5San Casciano in Val di Pesa

527-9San Daniele del Friuli

425-6San Domino 736San Fruttuoso 181San Gimignano 533-7,

534, 26San Giovanni in Fiore 771-2San Marino 58, 430, 473-4San Nicola 736San Remo 197-9, 198San Terenzo 194-5Santa Cristina 324Santa Margherita 182-3Santa Teresa di Gallura

879-81Santi, Raphael 915

Santo Stefano di Sessanio 636-7

Sardinia 16, 60, 847-90, 848-9, 17

accommodation 847climate 847food 847highlights 848-9history 850travel seasons 847travel to/from 850travel within 850-1

Sarnano 631-2Sarnico 280Sassari 874-6sassi 757-9Sauris 426-7Savona 195-6Scala dei Turchi 838Scanno 642-4Scigliano 772Scilla 778Scopello 841sculpture 909Segesta 843, 846Selinunte 840-1, 843, 2Selva 324Selvaggio Blu 887senior travellers 951Sentiero degli Dei 709Sentiero della Libertà 640Serpotta, Giacomo 790Sestriere 228Settimana Santa 29-30Shakespeare, William 383,

386-7shopping 361, see also

individual locationsShroud of Turin 205Sibari 773Sicily 19, 60, 781-846,

782-3accommodation 781climate 781food 781, 804, 815,

804-5highlights 782history 784travel seasons 781travel to/from 784-5travel within 785

Siena 516-25, 518-19, 530-1

accommodation 520-2drinking 523-4food 522-3nightlife 523-4sights 516-20tourist information 524

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

983IN

DEX S

- Vtours 520travel to/from 524travel within 524-5

Sinis Peninsula 866-7Sirmione 282-3, 276Sistine Chapel 114, 115,

115Siusi 325skiing 51, 52

Abruzzo 642Bressanone 330Camigliatello Silano 772Cinque Torri 399Cortina d’Ampezzo

399-400Courmayeur 235, 236Dolomites 323Kronplatz 331Limone Piemonte 229Merano 319Molise 642Monte Rosa 229-30Sella Ronda 322Trento 305Valle d’Aosta 231Valtournenche 238

Slow Food movement 943smoking 955snowboarding 51, see also

skiingSoave 391-2soccer, see footballSolda 321Sorano 549-50Sorrento 698-702, 699South Tyrol 58, 300,

312-22, 302-3accommodation 300climate 300food 300highlights 302travel seasons 300

souvenirs 361Sovana 549Spanish Steps 104, 104spas, see hot springsSpello 600-1Sperlonga 162-3Spoleto 604-8, 606St Francis of Assisi 596-7Stintino 873-4Stradivari, Antonio 299Stresa 263-5Stromboli 807-9Südtirol Weinstrasse 318Sulmona 637-40Supramonte 884-8Susa 227

Syracuse 823-9, 843, 824, 842-3

TTaormina 809-14, 843,

810, 842Taranto 754-6, 755Tarquinia 156-7taxes 20, 955-6taxis 966telephone services 20,

956-7Tellaro 194-5Termoli 651textiles 361Tharros 866-7theft 953thermal baths, see hot

springstime 20, 957tipping 23, 956Tivoli 153-5Todi 591-3toilets 957Torgiano 588-9tourist information 957-8,

see also individual locations

tours, see driving tours, walking tours, individual locations

train travelpasses 966to/from Italy 961, 962-3within Italy 966-7

Trani 726-7Trapani 841, 844-5travel to/from Italy 960-3travel within Italy 963-7trekking, see hikingTremezzo 279Trentino 58, 300, 301-12,

302-3accommodation 300climate 300food 300highlights 302

Trento 301-8, 304Trevi Fountain 105, 105Treviso 396-7Trieste 403-13, 404-5

accommodation 407-8activities 407drinking 411-12entertainment 412festivals 407food 409-11nightlife 411-12

shopping 412sights 403-7tourist information 412tours 407travel to/from 412-13travel within 413

Tropea 778-80truffles 219, 18, 218-19trulli 737, 730Turin 164, 202-16, 166-7,

204, 216accommodation 164,

208-9climate 164drinking 212-13entertainment 213-14festivals 207-8food 164, 209-11highlights 166history 202nightlife 212-13shopping 214-15sights 202-7tourist information 215tours 207travel seasons 164travel to/from 216travel within 216

Tuscany 12, 59, 475, 516-75, 476-7, 12, 554

accommodation 475climate 475food 475highlights 476travel seasons 475

TV 955Tyrrhenian Coast 796-8

north 769-70south 778-80

UUdine 418-24, 419Uffizi Gallery 485-90, 14,

486-7Umbria 59, 576, 577-615,

78-9accommodation 576climate 576food 576, 585highlights 578history 577transport 577travel seasons 576websites 577

Urbino 622-5, 622Ustica 796

Vvacations 956vaccinations 953Val Badia 328-9Val di Fassa 323-4Val di Fiemme 323Val di Genova 310Val di Non 311, 326Val di Rabbi 312Val di Solda 321-2Val di Sole 311-12Val d’Orcia 540-3Val d’Ultimo 321-2Val Gardena 324-5Val Pusteria 329-32Val Venosta 322Valle d’Aosta 230-8,

231Valle di Lanaittu 884Valle d’Itria 730, 736-43,

730Valley of the Temples 834,

837, 843, 837, 843Valnerina 608-10Valpolicella 390-1Valsesia 229-30Valtenesi 283-4Valtournenche 238Varallo 229-30Varenna 279-80, 277Vasari, Giorgio 917Vasto 648Vatican City 109-18, 116-17,

110, 112vegetarian travellers 130Veneto, the 58, 333, 376-

400, 334-5accommodation 333climate 333food 333highlights 334travel seasons 333

Venice 11, 58, 333, 336-76, 387, 334-5, 338-9, 342-3, 346, 348, 350-1, 354, 11, 356-7, 386-7

accommodation 333, 362-5

activities 358-9climate 333courses 359, 362crafts 360-1, 360-1drinking 370-2entertainment 372-3festivals 362food 333, 365-9glass-blowing 360

984

IND

EX V - Z

Venice continuedhighlights 334history 336-7itineraries 336medical services 375nightlife 370-2passes 337, 341, 376shopping 373-5sights 337-58tourist information 375travel seasons 333travel to/from 375travel within 375-6walking tour 354,

354Venosa 766Ventimiglia 199Ventotene 163Verbania 266-7Verdi, Giuseppe 457-8Vernazza 187, 188-9, 16,

186-7Verona 382, 386, 388-90,

384, 387

Versace 932Via Appia Antica 97-9Via Lattea 227Vicenza 392-4, 393Vieste 728-32Villa Romana del Casale

833, 843, 842Villasimius 858violins 299Virgil 937visas 20, 958-9Viterbo 157-9, 158volcanoes

Fossa di Vulcano 803hiking 48Mt Etna 18, 820-1, 18Mt Vesuvius 691Stromboli 807-8

Volpaia 532Volterra 537-40,

538volunteering 959Vulcano 803, 806

Wwalking, see hikingwalking tours

Brescia 294Valley of the Temples

837, 837Venice 354, 354

water sports 51-3weather 20, 29-32, see also

individual regionswebsites 21, 892weights 955white-water rafting 53wi-fi 953windsurfing 53wine 944-6wine regions 26-7

Alghero 872Barbaresco 222Barolo 221Castello di Volpaia 532Chianti 530-1, 530-1Conegliano 398Costa Smeralda 878

Franciacorta 281Gaiole in Chianti 532-3Greve in Chianti 525Il Carso 414Lago Trasimeno 590Montalcino 541Montepulciano 544Orvieto 614Pollenzo 223San Casciano in Val di

Pesa 527-8San Gimignano 535Soave 391Trento 304Valle d’Aosta 231-2Valpolicella 390

women in Italy 933women travellers 959work 959WWI 903WWII 904, 906, 907

Zzip lines 51

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

985N

OTES

986

NO

TES

987N

OTES

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Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

U-Bahn/Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi

Train station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

CampingHut/Shelter

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Tube station

T-bane/Tunnelbana station

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Kevin RaubEmilia-Romagna & San Marino; Umbria & Le Marche Atlanta native Kevin started his career as a music journalist in New York, working for Men’s Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and has written nearly 50 Lonely Planet guides, focused mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Caribbean and Portugal. Raub also contributes to a variety of travel magazines in both the USA and UK. Along the way, the self-confessed hophead is

in constant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers.

Regis St LouisMilan & the Lakes Regis grew up in a small town in the American Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams of travel – and he developed an early fas-cination with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent his formative years learning Russian and a handful of Romance languages, which served him well on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, covering destinations across six continents. When not on the road,

he lives in New Orleans.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Nicola WilliamsRome & Lazio; Florence & Tuscany Border-hopping is way of life for British writer, runner, foodie, art aficionado and mum-of-three Nicola Williams, who has lived in a French village on the southern side of Lake Geneva for more than a decade. Nicola has authored more than 50 guidebooks on Paris, Provence, Rome, Tuscany, France, Italy and Switzerland for Lonely Planet and covers France as a destination expert for the Telegraph. Nicola also wrote the Travel with Children chapter.

Cristian BonettoNaples & Campania Cristian has contributed to more than 30 Lonely Planet guides to date, including New York City, Italy, Venice & the Veneto, Naples & the Amalfi Coast, Denmark, Copenhagen, Sweden and Singapore. Lonely Planet work aside, his musings on travel, food, culture and design appear in numerous publica-tions around the world, including The Telegraph (UK) and Corriere del Mezzogiorno (Italy). Cristian also wrote chapters for Plan, Understand and Survival.

Kerry ChristianiSardinia Kerry is an award-winning travel writer, photographer and Lonely Planet au-thor, specialising in Central and Southern Europe. Based in Wales, she has authored more than a dozen Lonely Planet titles. An adventure addict, she loves mountains, cold places and true wilderness. Kerry’s insatiable wanderlust has taken her to all seven continents – from the frozen wilderness of Antarctica to the Australian Out-back – and shows no sign of waning. Her writing appears regularly in publications

such as Adventure Travel magazine, and she is a Telegraph Travel expert for Austria and Wales. Kerry also wrote the Outdoor Activities chapter.

Marc Di DucaMilan & the Lakes; Venice & the Veneto A travel author for the last decade, Marc has worked for Lonely Planet in Siberia, Slovakia, Bavaria, England, Ukraine, Aus-tria, Poland, Croatia, Portugal, Madeira and on the Trans-Siberian Railway, as well as writing and updating tens of other guides for other publishers. When not on the road, Marc lives between Sandwich, Kent and Mariánské Láznĕ in the Czech Republic with his wife and two sons.

Duncan GarwoodRome & Lazio; Sardinia From facing fast bowlers in Barbados to sidestepping hungry pigs in Goa, Duncan’s travels have thrown up many unique experiences. These days he largely dedicates himself to Italy, his adopted homeland where’s he’s been living since 1997. From his base in the Castelli Romani hills outside Rome, he’s clocked up endless kilometres exploring the country’s well-known destinations and far-flung reaches, working on guides to Rome, Sardinia, Sicily, Piedmont, and Naples & the Amalfi Coast.

Paula HardyMilan & the Lakes; Venice & the Veneto Paula Hardy is an independent travel writer and editorial consultant, whose work for Lonely Planet and other publications has taken her from nomadic camps in the Danakil Depression to Seychellois beach huts and the jewel-like bar at the Gritti Palace on the Grand Canal. Over two decades, she has authored more than 30 Lonely Planet guidebooks and spent five years as com-missioning editor of Lonely Planet’s bestselling Italian list. These days you’ll find her

hunting down new hotels, hip bars and up-and-coming artisans primarily in Milan, Venice and Marrakesh.

Virginia MaxwellFlorence & Tuscany Though based in Melbourne, Australia, Virginia spends at least three months of every year in Europe and the Middle East researching guidebooks and other travel-related content for a variety of publishers. She caught the travel bug during her first overseas trip to London, where she lived for a couple of years after finishing an Arts degree at university, and she’s been travelling regularly ever since. For the past 13 years Virginia has been working full-

time as a travel writer and occasional book reviewer.

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 55415313th edition – Feb 2018ISBN 978 1 78657 351 3© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 201810 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSGregor ClarkSardinia, Sicily Gregor is a US-based writer whose love of foreign languages and curiosity about what’s around the next bend have taken him to dozens of coun-tries on five continents. Chronic wanderlust has also led him to visit all 50 states and most Canadian provinces on countless road trips through his native North America. Since 2000, Gregor has regularly contributed to Lonely Planet guides, with a focus on Europe and the Americas.

Peter DragicevichVenice & the Veneto After a career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave into Kiwi wan-derlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade he’s written dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love.

Hugh McNaughtanAbruzzo & Molise; Puglia, Basilicata & Calabria A former English lecturer, Hugh swapped grant applications for visa applications, and turned his love of travel in-tro a full-time thing. Having done a bit of restaurant-reviewing in his home town (Melbourne) he’s now eaten his way across four continents. He’s never happier than when on the road with his two daughters.

Brendan SainsburyBorn and raised in the UK in a town that never merits a mention in any guidebook (Andover, Hampshire), Brendan spent the holidays of his youth caravanning in the English Lake District and didn’t leave Blighty until he was nineteen. Making up for lost time, he’s since squeezed 70 countries into a sometimes precarious ex-istence as a writer and professional vagabond. In the last 11 years, he has written more than 40 books for Lonely Planet from Castro’s Cuba to the canyons of Peru.

Donna WheelerTurin, Piedmont & the Italian Riviera, Trentino & South Tyrol; Friuli Venezia Giulia Donna has written guidebooks for Lonely Planet for more than 10 years, covering regions across Italy, Norway, Belgium, Africa, Tunisia, Algeria, France, Austria and Australia. She is the author of Paris Precincts, a curated photographic guide to the city’s best bars, restaurants and shops, and is reporter for Italian contemporary art publisher My Art Guides. Donna also wrote the Art & Architecture chapter.

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