21
461 461 OUR READERS Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help- ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Brian Penny, Frederique Bergniard, Katrin Brugger, Nicolas Jeanvoine AUTHOR THANKS Amy C Balfour Thanks to my talented co-authors who criss- crossed the West in search of the best adven- tures. Thanks also to Alex Howard and the Lonely Planet team for putting together an epic guide. Cheers! Sandra Bao A big shout-out to those who’ve made my life much happier while researching the Pacific Northwest: Carolyn Hubbard and Mike Hainsworth in Seattle, Adrienne Robineau in Port Townsend and Celeste Brash in Portland. Special thanks also to my husband, Ben Greensfelder, who has supported my research trips over the years (whether he joins me on my travels or not), and to my parents and brother, who have always been there for me throughout my peripatetic life. Becky Ohlsen Thanks to Ryan McCluskey, Joëlle Jones, Mike Russell, Leila del Duca, Michael Byrne, the Admiral 589, Joel and Christina and Karl and Natalie Ohlsen for all the help! Greg Ward Thanks to everyone at Lonely Planet, especially Alex Howard and my co-authors; to the many people who helped me on the road, including Steve Lewis and Steve Horak; and, above all, to my wife, Sam. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Koppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633-44. Illustration pp126-7 by Michael Weldon. Cover photograph: Cowboy boots hanging on barn wall, Oregon; Danita Delimont/AWL. SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Brian Penny, Frederique Bergniard, Katrin Brugger, Nicolas Jeanvoine

AUTHOR THANKS Amy C BalfourThanks to my talented co-authors who criss-crossed the West in search of the best adven-tures. Thanks also to Alex Howard and the Lonely Planet team for putting together an epic guide. Cheers!

Sandra BaoA big shout-out to those who’ve made my life much happier while researching the Pacific Northwest: Carolyn Hubbard and Mike Hainsworth in Seattle, Adrienne Robineau in Port Townsend and Celeste Brash in Portland. Special thanks also to my husband, Ben Greensfelder, who has supported my research trips over the years (whether he joins me on my travels or not), and to my parents and brother, who have always been there for me throughout my peripatetic life.

Becky OhlsenThanks to Ryan McCluskey, Joëlle Jones, Mike Russell, Leila del Duca, Michael Byrne, the Admiral 589, Joel and Christina and Karl and Natalie Ohlsen for all the help!

Greg WardThanks to everyone at Lonely Planet, especially Alex Howard and my co-authors; to the many people who helped me on the road, including Steve Lewis and Steve Horak; and, above all, to my wife, Sam.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Koppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633-44.

Illustration pp126-7 by Michael Weldon.Cover photograph: Cowboy boots hanging

on barn wall, Oregon; Danita Delimont/AWL.

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Behind the Scenes

462

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

THIS BOOK This 3rd edition of Lonely Planet’s Western USA guide-book was coordinated by Amy C Balfour. The content was researched and written by Amy, along with Sandra Bao, Sara Benson, Becky Ohlsen and Greg Ward. The previous edition was written by Amy C Balfour, along with Sandra Bao, Michael Benanav, Greg

Benchwick, Sara Benson, Ali-son Bing, Celeste Brash, Lisa Dunford, Carolyn McCarthy, Christopher Pitts and Brendan Sainsbury. This guidebook was produced by the following:Destination Editor Alexander HowardProduct Editors Alison Ridgway, Luna SooRegional Senior Cartographer Alison Lyall

Book Designer Wibowo RusliAssisting Editors Pete Cruttenden, Victoria Harrison, Monique PerrinCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Jenna Myers, Kirsten Rawlings, Ellie Simp-son, Angela Tinson, Lauren Wellicome

463©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

ABBREVIATIONSAZ ArizonaCA CaliforniaCO ColoradoID IdahoMT MontanaNM New MexicoNV NevadaOR OregonUT UtahWA WashingtonWY Wyoming

AAbbey, Edward 400, 426Abiquiu 386Absaroka Beartooth

Wilderness 288accommodations 440-2, see

also individual locationsAcoma Pueblo 377activities 26-9, 44-53, see

also individual activitiesAdams, Ansel 430adventure activities 22air travel

airports 451-2to/from Western USA

451-2within Western USA 453-5

Alamogordo 394Alaska, travel to/from 454Albuquerque 372-7Alcatraz 123, 126-7, 126-7,

126-7Alice in Chains 427altitude sickness 444Alvord Desert 232amphibians 435amusement parks 55

Disney California Adventure 14, 86, 14

Disneyland 14, 86-8, 14Knott’s Berry Farm 87Legoland 100Peak 8 Fun Park 253Santa Cruz Beach

Boardwalk 117SeaWorld San Diego 95Universal Studios

Hollywood 72, 427Wet ‘n’ Wild Phoenix 327

Anaheim 86-8Ancient Bristlecone Pine

Forest 169Anderson, Paul Thomas 425Andrew Molera State

Park 114Angels Camp 160Animal Dreams 426animals 435-7, see also

bird-watching, national parks, state parks, wildlife, individual species

Año Nuevo State Reserve 119Antelope Canyon 345Antelope Island State

Park 359Anza-Borrego Desert State

Park 104-20Apache people 415, 470Apache Trail 43, 40aquariums 55

Aquarium of the Bay 134Aquarium of the

Pacific 75Birch Aquarium at Scripps

95-6Monterey Bay Aquarium

115Oregon Coast Aquarium

227Shark Reef Aquarium 310

Arcata 155-7archaeological sites

Acoma Pueblo 377Bandelier National

Monument 386Chaco Culture National

Historic Park 390

Dinosaur Discovery Site 371

Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument 393

Hovenweep National Monument 367

Lava Beds National Monument 162

Mesa Verde National Park 267-8

Newspaper Rock Recreation Area 367

Petroglyph National Monument 374

Taos Pueblo 388Walnut Canyon 335

Arches National Park 365-6architecture 428-9Area 51 322area codes 21, 448Arizona 322-53, 304-5art deco architecture 429art museums & galleries,

see also museumsAlbuquerque Museumof

Art & History 373Asian Art Museum 120Aspen Art Museum 257Blumenschein Home &

Museum 387Boise Art Museum 296Canyon Road 378Colorado Springs Fine

Arts Center 261Crocker Art Museum 157Denver Art Museum 238Georgia O’Keeffe Museum

378Getty Center 73Hallie Ford Museum of

Art 216Hammer Museum 73Harwood Foundation

Museum 387Holter Museum of Art 289Los Angeles County

Museum of Art 72

Millicent Rogers Museum 387

Mingei International Museum 94

Missoula Art Museum 290Museum of Contemporary

Art (Denver) 238Museum of Contemporary

Art (Los Angeles) 67, 430

Museum of Contemporary Art (San Diego) 91-2, 430

Museum of International Folk Art 379

Museum of Latin American Art 76

National Museum of Wildlife Art 274

Nevada Museum of Art 318

New Mexico Museum of Art 379

Norton Simon Museum 77Palm Springs Art Museum

100-1Phoenix Art Museum 324Portland Art Museum 205San Diego Museum of

Art 94Santa Barbara Museum of

Art 108Schneider Museum of

Art 228Seattle Art Museum

179-82Taos Art Museum &

Fechin Institute 387Timken Museum of Art 94

arts 425-8, see also individual arts

Arts and Crafts style architecture 429

Ashland 228-30Aspen 257-9Astoria 224-5ATMs 446atomic bomb 409Auburn 159Avila Beach 111

464

IND

EX B- C

BB&Bs 440badlands 434Baez, Joan 426Balboa Park 92-3, 99, 25bald eagles 436ballooning 52Bandelier National

Monument 386baseball 412basketball 412basketry 418beaches

Cannon Beach 225Long Beach 74Malibu 73Natural Bridges State

Beach 117Newport 227North Coast 152Orange County 88San Diego 95San Francisco 124, 130Santa Barbara 108Santa Cruz 117Santa Monica 73Venice 73

Bean Trees 400bears 436Beartooth Highway 39, 41Beat Generation 425beer 19, 28, 423, 19, see

also breweriesBellingham 195-7Bend 221-3Berkeley 145-7bicycling, see cyclingBig Sur 113-14Bighorn Mountains 273bighorn sheep 437Billings 288-9Billy the Kid 408bird-watching 435-6

Crissy Field 123Klamath Basin National

Wildlife Refuge Complex 162

Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Preserve 352

Red Rock State Park 333

Bisbee 352-3Blind Pilot 427Bluff 367boat travel 455

boat tripsBellingham 196Flathead Lake 292Glacier National Park

294San Diego 96Santa Barbara 108

Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex 292

Bodega Bay 152Bodie State Historic

Park 169Boise 295-7books 400, 425-6border crossings 452, 453Boulder (CO) 15, 245-9, 15Boulder (UT) 368Bozeman 286-7breakfast 419Breaking Bad 428Breckenridge 253-5breweries 19, 214, 423

Arcata 157Denver 242Enterprise 232Eureka 157Los Angeles 82Mammoth Lakes 171Portland 213

bridgesGolden Gate Bridge

130-1, 9Rio Grande Gorge Bridge

387Sundial Bridge 161

Bryce Canyon National Park 19, 369-70

budgeting 21Bukowski, Charles 426Bureau of Land

Management 441Burning Man 320burritos 419bus travel

local transportation 459

to/from Western USA 452

within Western USA 455-6

bushwalking, see hikingbusiness hours 21, 447butterflies 116Byrds, The 426

Ccable cars

Aerial Tram (Portland) 205

Palm Springs Aerial Tramway 100

Powell St Cable Car Turnaround 120-1

Sandia Peak Tramway 374

Cactus League 27California 57, 60-173, 62-3

climate 60culture 412-13food 60, 420-1geology 431-3highlights 62-3history 408-11itineraries 61travel seasons 60

California Academy of Sciences 429

California condors 436Cambria 112Cameron 345camping 44-5, 47, 440-1Canada, travel to/from

453Cannon Beach 225-6canoeing, see kayaking &

canoeingCanyon de Chelly National

Monumen 345-6canyoneering 53Canyonlands National Park

366, 428Cape Blanco State Park

228Capitan 395-6Capitol Reef National

Park 368Capulin Volcano National

Monument 391car travel 445

driver’s licenses 452, 456car rentals 457-8road distances 457road rules 458-9road safety 458scenic drives 35-43, 36to/from Western USA

452-3within Western USA

456-9Carlsbad 396-7Carlsbad Caverns National

Park 396Carmel 114-15Carson City 321cash 446casinos 262, 307-8,

318-19, 10Cathedral Gorge State

Park 322

cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals

cavesBoyden Cavern 167Carlsbad Caverns

National Park 396Crystal Cave 167Kartchner Caverns State

Park 352Kings Canyon National

Park 167Oregon Caves National

Monument & Preserve 231

Sequoia National Park 167cell phones 20, 448cemeteries

Boot Hill Graveyard 352Hollywood Forever

Cemetery 71Chaco Culture National

Historic Park 390Chama 390-1Chandler, Raymond 425Channel Islands National

Park 109Cheyenne 271-2Chihuly, Dale 430Chihuly Garden and Glass

Exhibition 430children, travel with 54-6

Albuquerque 374Las Vegas (NV) 310Los Angeles 78Phoenix 327Portland 207Salt Lake City 356San Francisco 134Seattle 187

Chimayó 385Chiricahua National

Monument 353Church of Jesus Christ

of Latter-Day Saints 353-4, 355

churches & cathedralsCathedral of Our Lady of

the Angels 67Cathedral of St Helena

289Mission Basilica San

Diego de Alcalá 94Mission Dolores 124-5Mission Santa Barbara

107San Carlos Borroméo de

Carmelo Mission 115San Francisco de Asís

Church 387St Francis Cathedral 378

Cimarron 391Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

465IN

DEX C

- Fcinema, see filmCity of Rocks State Park 393civil rights movement 410Clark, William 405-6cliff dwellings 404climate 20, 26-9, see also

individual locationsclimate change 451climbing, see rock climbingCloudcroft 394Cobain, Kurt 427cocktails 424Cody 276-7coffee 424Coloma 159Colorado 235-71, 236-7Colorado Plateau 434Colorado River 342, 46Colorado Springs 260-2Columbia River Gorge 15,

219-20, 15consulates 443cooking courses 148, 380Corps of Discovery 405-6Cougar 203courses 148, 380Crater Lake National

Park 223credit cards 446Crested Butte 263Cripple Creek 262culture 400-1, 412-14Cunningham, Imogen 430currency 20customs regulations 442cycling 48-9, 455, 459

Ashland 228Bellingham 196Bend 222Boulder 246Eldorado Canyon State

Park 246Grand Canyon National

Park 340Los Angeles 77Missoula 290Olympic Discovery

Trail 194Portland 207-8San Francisco 131Santa Barbara 108Seattle 184-5Telluride 266Yellowstone National

Park 282

Ddams 437Dandy Warhols 427

dangers, see safetyDead Horse Point State

Park 366Death Cab for Cutie 427Death Valley National Park

106-7Decemberists 427Deception Pass State

Park 195dehydration 444DeMille, Cecil B 427Denver 235-45, 240

accommodations 239activities 238climate 241drinking 242entertainment 242-4festivals & events 238food 239-42shopping 244sights 238tourist information 254travel to/from 245travel within 245

deserts 18, 433, 18Devils Postpile National

Monument 169Devil’s Tower National

Monument 273Didion, Joan 426Diebenkorn, Richard 430Dinosaur National

Monument 363disabilities, travelers with

449discounts

accommodations 440cards 442-3senior travelers 442students 443

Disney California Adventure 14, 86, 14

Disneyland 14, 86-8, 14distilleries 297, 362diving & snorkeling 52

Channel Islands National Park 109

La Jolla 95Monterey 116Point Lobos State

Reserve 115Puget Sound 52

Doors, The 426Dr Dre 426drinks 423-4, see also beer,

distilleries, wine regionsdriver’s licenses 452, 456driving, see car traveldrought 438drugs 400, 446

dude ranches 441Dunsmuir 161Durango 268-70Durango & Silverton

Narrow Gauge Railroad 269, 23

DVDs 445Dylan, Bob 426

EE-40 426eagles 436Earp, Wyatt 408earthquakes 431Eastern Sierra Scenic

Byway 43Eazy E 426Ebey’s Landing National

Historical Reserve 195economy 401El Morro National

Monument 377Eldorado Canyon State

Park 246electricity 443Electric Kool-Aid Acid

Test 426elk 436-7Elko 321Ellensburg 203Ellroy, James 425embassies 443emergencies 21, 444environment 401environmental hazards 444environmental issues 437-8Escalante 369Estes Park 251-2etiquette

food 421Native American people

416photography 447tipping 446

Eugene 217-19Eureka 155-7events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 21

Ffarmers markets 420

Arcata 155Los Angeles 80Olympia 191-2San Francisco 136San Luis Obispo 111Santa Fe 384

Farmington 390

fast food 419-20Fear and Loathing in Las

Vegas 426Ferry Building 120, 23Ferlinghett, Lawrence 425festivals & events 26-9,

see also individual locations

arts 89, 185, 238, 254beer 209, 238-9cultural 209, 238, 254,

381film 185, 265, 361food 209, 246music 132, 246, 265Native American 374rodeos 271, 348sports 132

film 400, 427-8festivals 185, 265, 361locations 22-3

fires 401, 438fish 421fishing

Grand Teton National Park 284

Montana 288Salmon River 299Stanley 299

Flagstaff 17, 334-7Flaming Gorge National

Recreation Area 363Flathead Lake 291-2Flatirons 246, 15flowers 432food 23, 419-24, 443,

see also individual locations

California 420-1etiquette 421farm-grown produce 421fish 421food trucks 212Los Angeles 421Mexican food 422Native American 422Pacific Northwest 421San Francisco 420-1Southwest 421-2steak 422vegetarian travelers 422wild foods 421

food trucks 419football 412Forks 195Fort Apache Reservation

415Four Corners Navajo Tribal

Park 346Franti, Michael 427

466

IND

EX G-I

GGallatin Valley 287-8galleries, see art museums

& galleriesGallup 378Garden of the Gods 260-1Garrett, Sheriff Pat 408gay marriage 400, 410,

414, 443gay travelers 125, 443-4,

see also gay marriageLos Angeles 82Portland 242San Francisco 141

Gehry, Frank 429geology 22, 431-5Geronimo 415Getty Center 429Ginsberg, Allen 425Glacier National Park 19,

293-5, 19glass blowing 430Glen Canyon National

Recreation Area 344Going-to-the-Sun Road

42-3Gold Country 158-60gold rush 406-7Golden Gate Bridge

130-1, 9Golden Gate Canyon State

Park 243Goldwyn, Samuel 427golf 14, 14goosenecks 434Grand Canyon National

Park 10, 337-44, 434, 338, 10

Grand Coulee Dam 201Grand Staircase-Escalante

National Monument 369

Grand Teton National Park 284-5, 280, 32

Grapes of Wrath 400, 425Great American Beer

Festival 28Great Basin 321-3Great Depression 408Great Salt Lake 359Great Sand Dunes National

Park 270-1Green River 363-4Greene, Charles 77, 429Greene, Henry 77, 429grizzly bears 436

HHalloween Carnaval 29Hammett, Dashiell 425Havasu Canyon 344,

415-16, 5Havasupai people 415-16Hawaii, travel to/from 454Healdsburg 151health 444, 445heat exhaustion 444heat stroke 444Helena 289-90Hells Canyon 232Herzog & de Meuron 429High Road to Taos 41-2High Tide in Tucson 426Highway 12 41Highway 89 38hiking 24, 47-8

Absaroka Beartooth Wilderness 288

Albuquerque 374Arches National Park

365-6Barr Trail 261Bob Marshall Wilderness

Complex 292Boise 295California 60Canyonlands National

Park 366Canyons 361Deer Valley 360Denver 243Garden of the Gods

260-1Glacier National Park

294Grand Canyon National

Park 339-40, 343Grand Teton National

Park 284Havasu Canyon 344Joshua Tree National

Park 103Ketchum 297Kings Canyon National

Park 168Los Angeles 77Mesa Verde National

Park 268Methow Valley 200Missoula 290Moab 364Mt Hood 220Mt Rainier National

Park 202Olympic Discovery

Trail 194Palm Springs 101

Park City Mountain Resort 360

Phoenix 325-6Pikes Peak 260, 261Portland 207-8Quandary Peak 255Red Rock Canyon

National Conservation Area 317

Red Rock State Park 333Reno 319Rocky Mountain National

Park 249-51Saguaro National Park

351Salt Lake City 356Santa Fe 379Sun Valley 297Telluride 266Wild Rogue Wilderness

230Yellowstone National

Park 279, 281-2Yosemite National Park

163-5Zion National Park 370-1

Hillerman, Tony 425Historic Columbia River

Highway 43historic sites 24-5history 402-11

atomic bomb 409California 403-4, 408-9,

410civil rights movement

410Clark, William 405-6Corps of Discovery

405-6European settlement

404-5first inhabitants 403,

404Great Depression 408Hollywood 409Lewis, Meriwether 405-6Long Walk 407Los Alamos 409Manhattan Project 409Native American people

403-4, 407Oregon Trail 406Pacific Northwest 403pioneers 406Silicon Valley 411Southern Colorado 404Southwest 404WWII 409

hockey 412Hockney, David 430

holidays 447-8Hollywood 409, 427-8Hood River 219-20hoodoos 434Hoover Dam 317-18Hopi people 345, 416horseback riding 52hostels 441hot springs & spas 25

Ashland 228Big Sur 114Chico Hot Springs 287-8Las Vegas (NV) 311Napa Valley 148Ojo Caliente 386Oregon 218Orr Hot Springs 154Ouray 263Steamboat Springs 252Truth or Consequences

391-2Yellowstone National

Park 278hot-air ballooning 52hotels 441-2Hovenweep National

Monument 367Hualapai Nation 344, 417Humboldt Redwoods State

Park 154Humbug Mountain State

Park 228hypothermia 444

IIce Cube 426Idaho 295-300, 236-7Idaho Panhandle 300immigration 400-1, 413-14,

449-50, 451insurance 444-5

car 452-3, 456health 444, 445motorcycle 452-3, 456travel 444, 445

internet access 445internet resources 21,

see also individual locations

Into the Wild 400itineraries 30-4, 30,

31, 33, 34, see also individual locations

California 61Los Angeles 65Pacific Northwest 175Rocky Mountains 234San Francisco 121Southwest USA 302

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

467IN

DEX J-M

JJack London State Historic

Park 149Jackson 274-6Jacksonville 230Jefferson County Open

Space Parks 243Jenner 152Jerome 332jewelry 418Jicarilla Apache

Reservation 415John Day Fossil Beds

National Monument 231

Jones, Pirkle 430Joplin, Janis 426Joshua Tree National Park

103-4

KKanab 370Kartchner Caverns State

Park 352kayaking & canoeing 50,

see also white-water rafting

Channel Islands National Park 109

Las Vegas (NV) 311Monterey 116Portland 207-8Reno 319San Francisco 132Santa Barbara 108Santa Cruz 117Seattle 185

Kerouac, Jack 425Ketchum 297-8Kingman 347Kings Canyon National

Park 167-9Kingsolver, Barbara 400,

426Klamath Basin National

Wildlife Refuge Complex 162, 435

Knott’s Berry Farm 87Korn 427Krakauer, Jon 400

LLACMA Broad

Contemporary Art Museum 430

Laemmle, Carl 427lakes

Lake Chelan 199Lake Havasu City 347Lake Mead 317-18

Lake Powell 344-5Lake Tahoe 171-3

Lake Tahoe-Nevada State Park 172

Lander 273-4Lange, Dorothea 430language 20Laramie 272-3Las Cruces 392-3Las Vegas (NM) 385Las Vegas (NV) 10, 306-17,

308, 2, 10accommodations 311-12activities 311, 312children 310drinking 314-15emergencies 317entertainment 315-16food 312-14internet access 317medical services 317shopping 316-17sights 306-11tourist information 317travel to/from 317travel within 317

Lassen Volcanic National Park 163

Lava Beds National Monument 162

Leavenworth 199legal matters 445-6Leggett 154Legoland 100Leonard, Elmore 425lesbian travelers 125, 443-

4, see also same-sex marriage

Los Angeles 82San Francisco 141

Lewis, Meriwether 405-6Lime Kiln Point State

Park 197Lincoln 395-6Linkin Park 427literature 400, 425-6Little Bighorn Battlefield

National Monument 289

local transportation 459lodges 442logging 437London, Jack 425Loneliest Road 43Long Walk 407Longs Peak 47, 249, 18Lopez Island 198Los Alamos 385-6, 409Los Angeles 11, 64-86,

66-7, 11

accommodations 78-9activities 77Beverly Hills 72-3, 79,

74-5children 78Downtown 65, 70, 78,

80, 68-9drinking & nightlife 81-2entertainment 82-3festivals & events 78food 80-1Griffith Park 71-2, 80Hollywood 70-1, 78, 79,

80-1, 71, 74-5itineraries 65Long Beach 74-6, 79Malibu 73medical services 84Mid-City 72, 79, 80-1,

74-5Pasadena 76-7, 79, 81Santa Monica 73, 79,

81, 76shopping 83-4sights 65-77tourist information 84-5tours 77-8travel to/from 85travel within 85-6Venice 73-4, 81, 76

Los Angeles County Museum of Art 429

Lost Coast 154

Mmagazines 445mammals 436-7Manhattan Project 409marijuana, legalisation

of 400Marin County 144-5Marin Headlands 144markets. see also farmers

marketsLos Angeles 84Portland 206Seattle 179

Maroon Bells 257marriage equality 400, 410,

414, 443Maybeck, Bernard 429measures 445medical services 444medications 444Medicine Bow Mountains

273Meier, Richard 429Melvins 427Mendocino 152-4

Mesa Verde National Park 267-8

mesas 434Methow Valley 200Mexico

border crossings 453food 422travel to/from 453

MH de Young Memorial Museum 429

microbreweries, see breweries

Million Dollar Highway 38-9Mission Impossible: 2 428Missoula 290-1Moab 364-5mobile phones 20, 448Modest Mouse 427Mojave National Preserve

105money 20, 21, 446-7

discount cards 442-3moneychangers 446Monkey Wrench Gang 426Mono Lake 169Montana 286-95Monterey 115-17Monument Valley 367, 16Monument Valley Navajo

Tribal Park 346Mormon religion 353-4,

355Morro Bay 112Mosley, Walter 425motels 442motorcycle travel 452-3

rentals 458road distances 457road rules 458-9road safety 458within Western USA

456-9mountain biking 48, see

also cyclingCanyons 361Deer Valley 360Durango 269Flagstaff 335Ketchum 297Lander 274Las Vegas (NV) 311Moab 364Park City Mountain

Resort 360Phoenix 326Salida 259Santa Fe 379Steamboat Springs 252Sun Valley 297

468

IND

EX M-N

mountain biking continuedTelluride 266Winter Park 253

Mountain Empire 352mountains 432-3Mt Baker 198Mt Hood 220-1Mt Rainier National Park

202Mt Shasta 160Mt St Helens National

Volcanic Monument 202

Mt Tamalpais State Park 145

Muir Woods National Monument 145

multiculturalism 414Murphys 160Museum Club 17, 336, 17Museum of Contemporary

Art (Los Angeles) 67, 430

Museum of Contemporary Art (San Diego) 91-2, 430

museums 25, see also art museums & galleries

American International Rattlesnake Museum 373

Arizona Museum of Natural History 325

Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum 348

Autry National Center 72Avila Adobe 65-6Basque Museum &

Cultural Center 295Beat Museum 121Bradbury Science

Museum 385Buffalo Bill Center of the

West 276Burke Museum 183-4Cable Car Museum 123California Academy of

Sciences 131California Museum 157California Science

Center 70California State Railroad

Museum 157Chapin Mesa Museum

268Chihuly Garden and

Glass 183

Chinese Historical Society of America 121

Clyfford Still Museum 238

Colorado Ski Museum 255

Columbia River Maritime Museum 224

Denver Museum of Nature & Science 238

de Young Museum 131EMP Museum 183Exploratorium 120Fort Walla Walla Museum

204Frontier Days Old West

Museum 271Geological Museum 272Getty Villa 73Giant Forest Museum

166, 167GLBT History Museum

125Grammy Museum 68-9Griffith Observatory 71Heard Museum 323High Desert Museum 222History Colorado Center

238Hollywood Museum 70Hubbard Museum of the

American West 395Huntington Library 76Indian Pueblo Cultural

Center 373Japanese American

National Museum 67-8Jefferson Art & History

Museum 193Junípero Serra

Museum 95La Plaza de Cultura y

Artes 65Legion of Honor 131Los Alamos Historical

Museum 385Madame Tussauds 310Maritime Museum

(San Diego) 91Maritime Museum

(San Francisco) 123Martínez Hacienda 387Miracle of America

Museum 291Mob Museum 310Moraine Park Museum

249Museum of Indian Arts &

Culture 379Museum of Man 94Museum of New Mexico

379

Museum of Northern Arizona 334

Museum of the Rockies 286Musical Instrument

Museum 324, 426National Atomic Testing

Museum 311National Automobile

Museum 318National Museum of

Nuclear Science & History 373

Natural History Museum of Los Angeles 69-70

Natural History Museum of Utah 355

Neon Museum – Neon Boneyard 310

New Mexico Farm & Ranch Heritage Museum 392

New Mexico Museum of Space History 394

Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture 201

Oregon Historical Society 205

Palace of the Governors 379

Paley Center for Media 73Pima Air & Space

Museum 348Reuben H Fleet Science

Center 93San Diego Air & Space

Museum 94San Diego Natural

History Museum 93-4Santa Barbara Maritime

Museum 108Santa Cruz Surfing

Museum 117Seymour Marine

Discovery Center 117Smokejumper Visitor

Center 290Stumptown Historical

Society Museum 292Titan Missile Museum 351USS Iowa 75USS Midway Museum 91Utah Field House of

Natural History State Park Museum 362

Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian 378

White Sands Missile Test Center Museum 392

Wing Luke Museum of the Asian Pacific American Experience 182

Wyoming Territorial Prison 272

music 189, 426-7

NNapa Valley 17, 147-9, 17Nascar 412national parks 24, 45,

446, see also parks & gardens, state parks

Arches National Park 365-6

Bryce Canyon National Park 19, 369-70

Canyonlands National Park 366, 428

Capitol Reef National Park 368

Carlsbad Caverns National Park 396

Channel Islands National Park 109

Crater Lake National Park 223

Death Valley National Park 106-7

Glacier National Park 19, 293-5, 19

Grand Canyon National Park 10, 337-44, 338, 10

Grand Teton National Park 284-5, 280, 32

Great Basin National Park 322

Great Sand Dunes National Park 270-1

Joshua Tree National Park 103-4

Kings Canyon National Park 167-9

Lassen Volcanic National Park 163

Mesa Verde National Park 267-8

Mt Rainier National Park 202

North Cascades National Park 200

Olympic National Park 192-3

Petrified Forest National Park 347

Pinnacles National Park 113

Redwood National Park 155-6

Rocky Mountain National Park 18, 249-51,436, 437, 18

Saguaro National Park 351

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

469IN

DEX N

-P Sequoia National Park

167Yellowstone National

Park 9, 277-84, 280, 8-9

Yosemite National Park 12, 163-6, 12

Zion National Park 19, 370-1, 19, 46

Native American people 13, 415-18, 13, see also Native American sites

art 417-18food 422history 407museums 201, 323, 373,

378, 379photography of 447

Native American sitesAcoma Pueblo 377Chaco Culture National

Historic Park 390El Morro National

Monument 377Gila Cliff Dwellings

National Monument 393

Little Bighorn Battlefield National

Mesa Verde National Park 267-8

Monument 289Monument Valley 367Newspaper Rock

Recreation Area 367Northern Mountains 162Taos Pueblo 388Walnut Canyon 335

Natural Bridges National Monument 367

Natural Bridges State Beach 117

Navajo Nation, see Navajo Reservation

Navajo people 407Navajo Reservation 16,

345-6, 417, 16Neah Bay 195Nevada 303-22, 304-5New Mexico 372-97, 304-5New Mexico art 430Newberry National

Volcanic Monument 223

Newport 227Newspaper Rock

Recreation Area 367newspapers 445Nirvana 427North Cascade Mountains

198-200

North Cascades National Park 200

Northern Mountains 249-53

nuclear waste 437NWA 426

Oobservatories

Griffith Observatory 71Kitt Peak National

Observatory 351Lowell Observatory 334Very Large Array 392

Ojo Caliente 386OK Corral 352O’Keeffe, Georgia 430Old Faithful 278Old West sites 22Olympia 191-2Olympic National Park 192-3Olympic Peninsula 192-5O’Neill, Eugene 425opening hours 21, 447Orange County 88-9Orcas Island 197, 14Oregon 205-32, 176-7Oregon Cascades 220-4Oregon Caves National

Monument & Preserve 231

Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area 227-8

Oregon Trail 406Organ Pipe Cactus

National Monument 351

Ouray 263-4outdoor activities 44-53,

see also individual activities

PPacific Coast Highway 11,

37-8, 11, 40Pacific Northwest 58, 174-

232, 176-7accommodations 174climate 174culture 413food 174, 421geology 435highlights 176-7itineraries 175travel seasons 174

Packwood 202painting 430Palm Springs 100-3Paradise Valley 287-8

Paramount Studios 427Park City 359-62Park, David 430parks & gardens, see also

national parks, state parks

Alamo Square Park 125Alton Baker Park 217-19Barber Park 296Big Boy Steam Engine 271Chautauqua Park 246Confluence Park 238Crissy Field 123Desert Botanical Garden

324Dolores Park 125Forest Park 207Fort Stevens State

Park 224Fort Worden State Park

193-4Huntington Library 76Japanese Tea Garden 131Lan Su Chinese Garden

206Lithia Park 228Mt Helena City Park 289Old Town State Historic

Park 94Olympic Sculpture

Park 182Red Butte Garden 355Tom McCall Waterfront

Park 205Washington Park 207

passports 449-50, 451Patagonia 352Patagonia-Sonoita Creek

Preserve 352Peak 8 Fun Park 253Petrified Forest National

Park 347Petroglyph National

Monument 374Pfeiffer Big Sur State

Park 114Phoenix 14, 323-31, 324-5,

14accommodations 326-8activities 325-6children, travel with 327drinking 329-30emergencies 330entertainment 330festivals & events 326food 328-9medical services 330shopping 330sights 323-5tourist information 330

travel to/from 331travel within 331

phone cards 448photography 430, 447Piano, Renzo 429Pike Place Market 179, 13Pikes Peak 260Pink Martini 427Pinnacles National Park 113Pioneertown 103Pismo Beach 110Planet of the Apes 428planning, see also

individual locationsbudgeting 21calendar of events 26-9children 54-6internet resources 21itineraries 30-4, 30, 31,

33, 34travel seasons 20, 26-9Western USA basics

20-1Western USA’s regions

57-8plants 432Point Lobos State Natural

Reserve 115Point Reyes National

Seashore 145politics 400-1, 413population 401, 414Port Angeles 194-5Port Orford 228Port Townsend 193-4Portland 11, 205-16,

208, 11accommodations 210-11activities 207-9children 207drinking & nightlife

213-14emergencies 215entertainment 214-15festivals & events 209internet access 215medical services 215shopping 215sights 205-7tourist information 215tours 209travel to/from 215travel within 215

Postal Service, The (band) 427

postal services 447postmodern architecture

429pottery 418

470

IND

EX P-S

Prescott 331-2pronghorn antelope 437public holidays 447-8Pueblo people 417

QQuandary Peak 255Queen Mary 75

Rradio 445rafting, see white-water

raftingrailways

Chama 390-1Durango & Silverton

Narrow Gauge Railroad 269, 23

Grand Canyon Railway 337

Mt Hood Railroad 219Railtown 1897 State

Historic Park 160-1ranches 441Red Rock Canyon National

Conservation Area 317Red Rock State Park 333Red Rocks Amphitheatre

244Redding 161Redwood National Park

155-6redwood trees 432religion 401, 414Reno 318-20reptiles 435resorts 25, 442Rhyolite 107Richardson, Bill 428road distances 457road rules 458-9road trips 35-43, 36, see

also car travelArizona 331Beartooth Highway

39, 41Going-to-the-Sun Road

42-3High Road to Taos 41-2Highway 12 41Highway 89 38Historic Columbia River

Highway 43Idaho 299Million Dollar Highway

38-9New Mexico 377Oregon 226Pacific Coast Highway 11,

37-8, 11, 40Rocky Mountains 283Route 66 12, 17, 66 35-7,

336, 13, 17Utah 370

rock climbing 53Estes Park 251Garden of the Gods

260-1Grand Teton National

Park 284Joshua Tree National

Park 103Moab 364Ouray 263Red Rock Canyon

National Conservation Area 317

Smith Rock 222Yosemite National

Park 165Rocky Mountain National

Park 18, 249-51, 436, 437, 18

Rocky Mountains 58, 233-300, 236-7

accommodations 233climate 233food 233highlights 236-7itineraries 234national parks 277travel seasons 233travel to/from 235travel within 235

Roswell 396Route 66 12, 17, 35-7, 336,

13, 17Ruidoso 394-5Ruscha, Ed 430Russian River Valley 150-1

SSacramento 157-8safety

environmental hazards 444

Mexican border 453road hazards 458women travelers 450

Saguaro National Park 351Salem (OR) 216-17Salida 259-60Salt Lake City 354-9

accommodations 356activities 354-6

children 356drinking & nightlife

357-8emergencies 358entertainment 358food 356-7medical services 358shopping 358sights 354-6tourist information 358travel to/from 359travel within 359

Salton Sea 105Salvation Mountain 105same-sex marriage 400,

410, 414, 443San Carlos Apache

Reservation 415San Diego 89-99, 90,

92-3, 25accommodations 96-7activities 96drinking & nightlife 98entertainment 99food 97-8medical services 99sights 89-96tourist information 99travel to/from 99travel within 99

San Francisco 9, 119-44, 122, 124, 128-9, 2, 9, 23

accommodations 132-6activities 131-2Castro, the 124-5, 135,

138children 134Chinatown 121, 133,

137, 133Civic Center 120-1, 134,

136-7drinking & nightlife

139-40entertainment 140-2festivals & events 132Fisherman’s Wharf 123,

135, 137-8food 136-9, 420-1Golden Gate Park 130-1,

139Haight, the 125, 136,

138-9itineraries 121medical services 143Mission, the 124-5,

135, 138Presidio 123-4, 135,

137-8shopping 142-3

sights 120-31SoMa 136tourist information 143tours 132travel to/from 143travel within 144Union Square 120-1, 134,

136-7walking tour 133, 133

San Juan Island 197San Juan Islands 14,

196-7, 14San Luis Obispo 111-12Santa Barbara 107-10Santa Cruz 117-19Santa Fe 16, 378-84, 380-1,

430, 16 Scottsdale 325, 14Seattle 13, 179-91, 180-1,

13accommodations 185-6activities 184-5children 187drinking & nightlife

188-9emergencies 190entertainment 189-90festivals & events 185food 186-8medical services 190shopping 190sights 179-84tourist information 190tours 185travel to/from 190-1travel within 191

SeaWorld San Diego 95Sedona 332-4senior travelers 442Sequoia National Park

167sequoia trees 432Serra, Richard 430SFMOMA 430Shakur, Tupac 426sheep 437Sheridan 273Shins, the 427shopping, see farmers

markets, markets, individual locations

Sierra Nevada 163-73, 432-3, 62-3

Silicon Valley 411Silver City 393Silverton 267, 32Sinks Canyon State Park

273-4Sisters 221

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

471IN

DEX S

-T skiing & snowboarding

51-2Alta 360Arapahoe Basin Ski

Area 254Arizona Snowbowl 335Aspen Mountain 257Big Sky Resort 287Breckenridge 253-5Bridger Bowl Ski Area

286Brighton 359Crested Butte Mountain

Resort 263Durango Mountain

Resort 269Heavenly 171Jackson Hole Mountain

Resort 275Methow Valley 200Mount Bachelor Ski

Resort 222Mt Ashland Ski Resort

228Mt Baker Ski Area 199Mt Hood 220Northstar California 172Rocky Mountains 256Royal Gorge 172Salt Lake City 359-60Santa Fe 379-80Schweitzer Mountain

Resort 300Ski Apache 395Snowbird 360Solitude 359Squaw Valley USA 172Steamboat Springs 252Sugar Bowl 172Sun Valley Resort 298Taos Ski Valley 388Telluride Ski Resort 265Utah Olympic Park 360Vail Mountain 255Whitefish Mountain

Resort 293Winter Park 253

Sleater-Kinney 427Slide Rock State Park 333Slow Food movement 420Smith, Elliot 427Snoop Dog 426snorkeling, see diving &

snorkelingsnowboarding, see skiing &

snowboardingsoccer 412Solvang 110Sonoma Coast State

Park 152

Sonoma Valley 149-50Sonoran Desert 18, 347,

348, 351, 18Soundgarden 427South Cascades 202-3Southwest 58, 301-98,

304-5accommodations 301climate 301culture 413-14food 301, 421-2geology 433-4highlights 304-5itineraries 302national parks 306travel seasons 301

Spanish mission architecture 428-9

spas, see hot springs & spas

Spearhead 427Spokane 200-2sports 412

Denver 243-4Los Angeles 83Salt Lake City 358

Springdale 371St George 371-2Stanley 298-300state parks, see also

national parks, parks & gardens

Andrew Molera State Park 114

Año Nuevo State Reserve 119

Antelope Island State Park 359

Anza-Borrego Desert State Park 104-5

Bodie State Historic Park 169

Cape Blanco State Park 228

Cape Lookout State Park 226

Cathedral Gorge State Park 322

Chaco Culture National Historic Park 390

Cimarron Canyon State Park 381

City of Rocks State Park 393

Columbia State Historic Park 160

Dead Horse Point State Park 366-7

Deception Pass State Park 195

Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park 156

Donner Memorial State Park 173

Dosewallips State Park 192

Ecola State Park 225Emerald Bay State

Park 172Fort Stevens State

Park 224Fort Worden State Park

193-4Golden Gate Canyon

State Park 243Humboldt Redwoods

State Park 154Humbug Mountain State

Park 228Jack London State

Historic Park 149Jedediah Smith

Redwoods State Park 156

Jerome State Historic Park 332

Kartchner Caverns State Park 352

Kodachrome Basin State Park 41

La Purísima Mission State Historic Park 110

Lake Chelan State Park 199-200

Lake Cushman State Park 192

Lake Tahoe-Nevada State Park 172

Lime Kiln Point State Park 197

Living Desert State Park 396

Marshall Gold Discovery State Historic Park 159

Montaña de Oro State Park 112

Moran State Park 198Mt Tamalpais State

Park 145Old Town State Historic

Park 94Patrick’s Point State

Park 155Pfeiffer Big Sur State

Park 114Point Lobos State

Natural Reserve 115Prairie Creek Redwoods

State Park 156Railtown 1897 State

Historic Park 160

Red Rock State Park 333Salt Point State Park 152Slide Rock State Park

333Smokey Bear Historical

State Park 396Staunton State Park 243Torrey Pines State

Natural Reserve 95Valley of Fire State

Park 318Van Damme State

Park 152steaks 422Steamboat Springs 252-3Steens Mountain 232Stegner, Wallace 426Steinbeck, John 400, 425Strayed, Cheryl 400, 426street food 419subway travel 459Sun Valley 297-8Sundance Film Festival 26Supai 415surfing 49

Los Angeles 77Orange County 88San Diego 96Santa Cruz 117-18

Sutter Creek 160

TTahoe City 172Tahoe National Forest

Headquarters 159Talkdemonic 427Taos 16, 386-90, 430Taos Pueblo 388taxes 446taxis 459technology industry 411telephone services 20, 448Telluride 265-7Telluride Bluegrass

Festival 27theater

Las Vegas (NV) 316Portland 214Salt Lake City 358San Francisco 140

Thelma & Louise 428theme parks, see

amusement parksThiebaud, Wayne 430Thompson, Hunter S 426time 20, 448tipping 446Tombstone 352Tombstone 428

472

IND

EX T-Z

Torrey 368Torrey Pines State Natural

Reserve 95tourist information 448-9,

see also individual locations

tours, see individual locations

train travellocal transportation 459rail passes 460scenic train travel 459to/from Western USA

453within Western USA

459-60traveler’s checks 446travel to/from Western

USA 451-3travel within Western USA

453-60trees 432trekking, see hikingTruckee 172Truth or Consequences

391-2Tubac 351Tucson 347-50Turquoise Trail 43TV 428, 445TV locations 22-3Twin Peaks 428

UUkiah 154Universal Studios

Hollywood 72. 427universities

Arizona State University 325

Humboldt State University 155

University of California, Berkeley 146

University of Oregon 217US Air Force Academy 261USS Iowa 75USS Midway Museum 91Utah 353-72, 304-5

Vvacations 447-8Vail 255-7Valens, Richie 426Valley of Fire State Park

318vegetarian travelers 422Venetian, the 312, 10Vernal 362-3Victorian architecture 429Virginia City 321visas 20, 449-50visual arts 429-30

Wwalking, see hikingwalking tours 133, 133Walla Walla 203-5Wallowa Mountains Area

232Walnut Canyon 335Walt Disney Concert Hall

429, 11Warner, Jack 427Wasatch Mountains 359-62Washington 178-205, 176-7water conservation issues

401, 408, 437Waterton Canyon 243weather 20, 26-9, see also

individual locationsWeaverville 161

weaving (Navajo) 418websites 21, see also

individual locationsweights 445Weston, Edward 430Wet ‘n’ Wild Phoenix 327whale-watching 50, 116Whidbey Island 195White Mountain Apache

tribe 415White Sands National

Monument 394white-water rafting 49-50,

see also kayaking & canoeing

Arkansas River 260Colorado River 342, 46Green River 363-4Moab 364Salida 259Salmon River 299Santa Fe 379Snake River 232Stanley 299Steamboat Springs 252Wild Rogue Wilderness

230Yellowstone National

Park 282Whitefish 292-3wi-fi 445Wild 400, 426wild foods 421Wild Rogue Wilderness 230wildfires 438wildlife 435-7, see also

bird-watching, national parks, state parks, individual species

Willamette Valley 216-19Williams 337wine regions 17, 23-4, 423-4

Arizona 332California 17, 147-51Napa Valley 147-9, 17Russian River Valley

150-1Santa Barbara 110Sonoma Valley 149-50Verde Valley 332Willamette Valley 217Yakima Valley 204

Winslow 346Winter Park 253Wolfe, Tom 426women travelers 450Wright, Frank Lloyd 429WWII 409Wyoming 271-85, 236-7

YYachats 227Yakima 203Yellowstone National Park

9, 277-84, 280, 8-9Yosemite National Park 12,

163-6, 12

ZZion National Park 19,

370-1, 19, 46zoos 55

Hogle Zoo 356Living Desert Zoo &

Gardens 101Los Angeles Zoo &

Botanical Gardens 72San Diego Zoo 93San Diego Zoo Safari

Park 99-100Zuni Pueblo 377

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

473N

OTES

474

NO

TES

475N

OTES

476

NO

TES

Send your ‘Lonely Planet in the Wild’ photos to [email protected] We share the best on our Facebook page every week!

NIG

EL H

EA

NE

Y

LONELY PLANET WILDIN THE

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

478

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

Airport

Border crossingBART station

BusBoston T station

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/Muni station

Petrol stationSubway/SkyTrain stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Map Legend

Becky Ohlsen Rocky Mountains Becky Ohlsen grew up in the Rockies and seizes every chance she gets to explore the region. She has a huge crush on the Tetons, believes that jackalopes are real and likes to watch a storm roll in across a far-away horizon.

Greg Ward Southwest Greg Ward has been exploring the deserts of the Southwest for more than 20 years and has written several guidebooks to the region. He also writes extensively about history, music and European destinations. He lives in London, and his website is gregward.info.

Read more about Greg at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/gregward

Read more about Becky at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/beckyohlsen

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9833rd edition – April 2016ISBN 978 1 74321 864 8© Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 201610 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Amy C Balfour Coordinating Author, Plan Your Trip, Understand, Survival Guide Amy has hiked, biked and paddled her way across California and the Southwest. She has authored or co-authored 28 guidebooks for Lonely Planet and has written for Backpacker, Redbook, Southern Living, Women’s Health, the Los Angeles Times and the Washington Post.

Sandra Bao Pacific Northwest Sandra has lived in Buenos Aires, New York and California, but the glorious Pacific Northwest has become her final stop. Researching this region has been a highlight of Sandra’s 15-year-long authoring career with Lonely Planet, which has covered four continents and dozens of guidebooks. She’s come to appreciate the beauty of this region, how much it has to offer and how friendly people can be in those tiny towns in the middle of nowhere.

Sara Benson California After graduating from college, Sara jumped on a plane to California with just one suitcase and $100 in her pocket. After driving tens of thousands of miles to every corner of the state, she settled on the sunny side of San Francisco Bay in Oakland. The author of more than 65 travel and nonfiction books, Sara’s latest adventures are online at www.indietraveler.blogspot.com, www.indietraveler.net, @indie_traveler on Twitter and indietraveler on Instagram.

OUR WRITERS

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Read more about Sara at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/sara_benson

Read more about Sandra at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/sandrabao

Read more about Amy at: http://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/amycbalfour

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© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’