Intelligence

Sustainability & Innovation:Bast FibresPlant-based bast fibres, led by linen, are gaining tractiondue to their potential to figure in regenerative fibrestrategies. We identify this fibre group's sustainabilitycredentials and highlight industry innovation

Helen Palmer, Allison Goodfellow-Ash & Olivia Barnes10.07.21 · 18 minutes

JungmavenJungmaven

Overview

Bast fibre production represents about 6.5m tonnes, around 6% of the total globalfibre production, according to Textile Exchange's Preferred Fiber and Materials MarketReport 2021.

What is a bas t fibre? It's a fibre that comes from the fibrous layer inside the stem ofplants, different to plants such as cotton, where fibre comes from the plant seed. Flax(linen) hemp and ramie (related to nettle) are most known in apparel, whereas jute forexample, is used in home textiles and some accessories. Although the fibre group issmall, interest in them is growing. They are recognised as being soil-friendly, needinglittle irrigation or treatment in cultivation, so if processed correctly, they can offerconsumers low-impact products.

Whats next? As indicated in WGSN'S 2023 Push for Progress Big Idea and FutureInnovation call-out Collective & Regenerative, these fibres could play an essential roleas the regenerative farming movement takes root. Bio-tech firms are also using agri-waste from hemp and jute as feedstock for cellulosic fibres, material composites andeven bio-based leather, and lesser-known fibres such as nettle are cropping up in themarket as brands search for new plant-based fibres to drive market interest anddiversify fibre sourcing.

This report outlines key fibres, sustainable innovations and technologies with industrycase studies in apparel and accessories.

Fibrevolution is reviving regional �bre manufacturing hubs focused on bast �bre (�ax and hemp) instrategic growing areas around the US

Fibre EvolutionFibre Evolution

1

Bast �bres support regenerative farming practices

Bast fibres can work well as cover crops, thrive in crop rotation, add nutrient-richorganic matter to soil and aid in carbon drawdown, making them ripe for regenerativefarming practises.

Regenerative farming in brief: it's an agricultural practice that goes even further thanorganic farming, working with nature to actively repair harm. This practise enhancesbiodiversity, enriches depleted soil, improves watersheds and encourages carbondrawdown from the atmosphere into soil to help reverse global warming, also settingout to address the lack of equity associated with farming's history by helping tosupport farms and improve livelihoods.

Who's championing regenerative bas t fibres? Leading in regenerative landstewardship, Fibershed, an international movement developing regional andregenerative fibre systems with farmers, producers, textile workers, designers anddistributors, is championing a regenerative 'farm-to-closet' fashion movement, alongwith organisations such as Farfarm, a Fashion for Good Accelerator Programme thatadvocates regenerative farming systems in Brazil.

How you can action this : identify where you can switch into bast fibres and formpartnerships with leading experts in the field such as Fibreshed for support andguidance.

Kleeze Hemp Field in North Carolina by Fibershed

FibershedFibershed

2

Bast �bres to know

Flax (linen): is the only bast fibre indigenous to Western Europe, with Ireland,Southern Normandy and Belgium making up 80-85% of the world s̓ flax. The fibre isstrong, breathable and hypoallergenic.

Hemp: strong and weather-resistant, hemp is cultivated around the world, from Chinato Korea, Chile, Canada, the US and Europe.

Jute: mainly cultivated in the Ganges Delta (mainly West Bengal) and also China, thisprolific, low-cost fibre is used for coarser textiles.

Kenaf (deccan hemp and java jute): it's fast growing and historically used as rope andsackcloth, grown mainly in India, Bangladesh, the US, Indonesia, Malaysia, SouthAfrica, Vietnam, Thailand and Africa.

Ramie (rhea or China gras s): native to East Asia, ramie comes from nettle plants andis linen-like, silky and strong. It's mainly produced in China, but some is grown inTaiwan, Korea, the Philippines and Brazil.

Himalayan nettle: the giant stinging nettle grows in Nepal on yak grazing pastures andis strong and silky, becoming so�er with wear.

Calotropis (rux fibre or milkweed): grows in West and South Asia, North and tropicalAfrica, thriving as a marginal crop with little care.

Dogbane: used by indigenous Americans, it's similar to nettle. Growing vigorously, it'sknown as a weed, but supports biodiversity in farming.

Urena: grows in tropical and subtropical areas.

Sunn: native to the Indian subcontinent.

Ros elle: a jute-like African fibre.Bast �bres including hemp, �ax, dogbane, nettle and milkweed �bre by Fibershed

FibershedFibershed

3

Key �bre: �ax (linen)

Market context: the global production of flax fibre and tow in 2020 was estimated at1m tonnes by Textile Exchange, less than 1% of the global fibre market. European flax(80-85% of global linen production) comes from Northern France, Belgium and theNetherlands, but is also grown in Russia, the Ukraine and China.

Market data from WGSN e-commerce measured between January 2018 - September2021 ranks linen second against cotton within the natural plant-grown fibre mix. High-street retailers are increasingly using it (+2ppt UK 2018 - 2021 and +2ppt YoY in the US2018 - 2021).

Green credentials : flax is a renewable, biodegradable natural fibre, uses a fi�h of thefertiliser needed for cotton, relies little on water to grow and draws carbon into thesoil, making it extremely eco-friendly in conventional farming, even with 0.5 % of flaxcertified as organic.

Its popularity has grown due to its natural performance and eco-friendly associations.The strongest bast fibre, it is cooling, moisture-wicking, absorbent, breathable anddurable, has antibacterial, moth- and stain-resistant properties, dyes easily and ispretty colourfast.

How you can action this : source linen from verified sources. The EuropeanConfederation of Flax and Hemp (CELC) federates all stages of linen and hempproduction, and represents 10,000 members. Its online Linen Dream Lab linkssuppliers to brands and designers.

CELC launched a new online tool based on Tagwalk's keyword search engine. Linen Dream Labpromotes linen innovations by spinners, weaver and knitters to brands and designers

Tagwalk x Linen DreamlabTagwalk x Linen Dreamlab

4

Key �bre: hemp

Market context: hemp fibre and tow production was estimated at about 174,027tonnes in 2020 by Textile Exchange, making up just 0.2% of the total fibre market.

WGSN e-commerce data shows hemp is slow to take market share from fibres such ascotton (+0.1ppt in the UK 2018-21, but -2ppt in the US 2018 - 2021, working out at just 1%of the natural plant fibre mix in the US). Hemp yield is dominated by China (20-30%),but also grows in North Korea, Europe. Russia and Canada. Hemp is associated withcontroversy due to its cannabis byproduct, but the 2018 United States Farm Bill thatrelegalised hemp growing boosted its increase, endorsed by Patagonia's 2021 BringHemp Home: Colorado project, linking hemp farms to the supply chain. In 2020,Pakistan announced plans to grow hemp, aiming to generate $1bn over three years.

Green credentials : it's a strong, biodegradable, renewable fibre, generating highyields quickly without fertilisers or pesticides, ideal for crop rotation. As a cover crop itblocks out weeds and leaves, soil-enriching biomass post-harvest. Hemp draws vastamounts of CO2 into the soil and absorbs and filters toxic soil contaminants. It hashypo-allergic, bacteria, UV, mould and mildew resistance.

How you can action this : source hemp from industry-affiliated suppliers, such as theEuropean Industrial Hemp Association (EIHA).

Patagonia advocates hemp, developing performance blends with organic cotton, recycledpolyester and Tencel, and the brand continuously strives for lower-impact products

PatagoniaPatagonia

5

Key �bre: ramie

Market context: China leads in the production of ramie and exports mainly to Japanand Europe, with other producers including Japan, Taiwan, the Philippines and Brazil.Japan, Germany, France and the UK are the main importers, with most of the fibre useddomestically.

Ramie is a linen-like fibre, part of the nettle family, and is o�en used as a substitute for– and blended with – cotton or linen, but sometimes wool. It is super strong and can befine and silky if spun wet or coarse when dry spun, so can be used for silky productsthrough to robust items such as denim.

Green credentials : similarly to flax and hemp, ramie doesn't need pesticides orherbicides and can be harvested three to six times a year. It has a long processingroute using chemicals, similarly to flax (unless its closed-loop processed or de-gummed using enzymes instead of chemicals).

It s̓ absorbent and breathable, and also stain- bacteria-, mould- and mildew-resistant,UV-, rot- and moth-resistant, and dyes quite well. Like linen it wrinkles easily and haslow-abrasion resistance.

How you can action this : source ramie yarn and materials responsibly.

Joseph's 100% Ramie Voile Baidy Blouse plays to the �bre's silky light characteristics

JosephJoseph

6

Fibre innovation: cottonised hemp

Cottonised hemp is set to increase in denim and apparel as legislation eases and someindustry players look to offset a reliance on cotton.

What's cottonis ation? It's a process that removes hemp's woody lignin binder, so itcan be processed like cotton for a so�er, cotton-like feel.

Indus tr y innovators : Dallas-based industrial hemp firm Panda Biotech has expandedits partnership with Kontoor Brands (owner of Lee and Wrangler) for traceable, US-made, textile-grade cottonised hemp, and partnered with AGI Denim, a key verticaldenim maker in Pakistan.

Bear Fiber's alkaline hemp cottonisation process and manufacturing platform is set onboosting the US hemp industry one product at a time, launching hemp and cotton-blend socks in 2021.

Levi̓s WellThread cottonised hemp denim launched in 2019 in 30% hemp, upping to55% hemp by 2021. It's collaborated with Outerknown and more recently Ganni for a14-piece hemp denim collection. A key vertically integrated supplier is Hemp Fortex,making yarn and textiles from China-grown certified hemp.

From flax to hemp: French producer The Flax Company took 30-plus years of flaxknowhow and launched brand Marmara Original, providing denim textile producerRajby Industries with certified, traceable fibre.

How you can action this : see cottonised hemp as a viable replacement for somecotton sourcing to save water and reduce carbon footprint.

Levi’s WellThread collection made its cottonised hemp denim debut in 2019 with 30% hemp, andby 2021 upped the percentage to 55%

Levi Strauss & CoLevi Strauss & Co

7

Fibre innovation: next-generation bio�bre

Bast fibres such as hemp are shaking off outdated perceptions as industry innovatorsexploit their potential in scientifically advanced biofibres.

Circular biofibre: Circular System's Agraloop BioFibre closed-loop technology turnshemp residues and oilseed, flax and other agri-waste into cottonised bast fibre. In2021, Weekday launched a sustainable denim capsule in biofibre and cotton, andH&M's mainline spring 2021 range included it in a 1990s sport-themed collection. ArvinGoods has also mixed biofibre with organic and recycled cotton for its durable,antimicrobial socks.

Gujarat-based AltMat turns hemp, kenaf and nettle, and other agri-waste into naturalbast fibres and yarns, and the company is scaling up from a pilot plant to a productionfacility.

Carbonis ed hemp: Hemp Black is a technology firm and performance brandinnovating hemp at a molecular level with its carbonised hemp biofibre, engineeredfor textiles and composites. In addition to its own-brand activewear, its Hidetechnology, a hemp-based and Repreve leather alternative, and Nano, an anti-odour,hemp-infused polymer, were both used in a five-piece unisex bag collaborationwith Oroton.

How you can action this : work with fibre innovators to maximise the full potential ofbast fibres via circular, science-based technologies.

In March 2021 H&M incorporated Agraloop BioFibre to its spring 2021 collection of sporty 1990s pieces, including a sleeveless cropped hoodie, slip dress and sleeveless denim vest

H&M x AgraloopH&M x Agraloop

8

Fibre innovation: beyond �ax and hemp

Lesser-known bast fibres are starting to be used by innovative brands and consciouslabels to rebalance cotton's dominance in the market.

Who's innovating? Pangaia launched its PLNTFIBER cotton-handle capsule, blendingHimalayan nettle with bamboo, eucalyptus and seaweed, treated with peppermint oilto keep the sweats fresh.

Nettle's antimicrobial, antihistamine properties are harnessed in Maui-basedmedicinal, conscious clothing brand Seam Siren, who donates 10% of every purchase tothe women's collective in the region.

Calotropis (milkweed) has been marketed as a vegan-alternative to wool by Indianstartup Faborg. Weganool fibre is made from 30% stem and pod fibre, and 70% rain-fedorganic cotton. Harvested and made by hand, the company is helping to support tradein India's rural areas where jobs are not secure.

The plant residue is also blended with Ayurvedic herbs and made into ARKA, a bio-nutrient and insect repellent, bringing in extra income.Milkweed is buoyant and water-resistant, and could be an alternative plant-baseddown according to May West, who has insulated jackets with milkweed floss.How you can action this : bring a wider range of environmentally beneficial plant-based fibres to market, working with social enterprises to create fair and equitabletrade for rural worker communities.

Pangaia's PLNTFIBER is a blend of Himalayan nettle, bamboo, eucalyptus and seaweed, as the brandlooks to rebalance an over-reliance on cotton �bre jersey

PangaiaPangaia

9

Fibre innovation: bio�bre composites

Bas t fibre comp os ites : bast fibres can be made circular, as the plant's post-harvestresidue can be turned into lower-impact bioplastics and bio-composites, saving themfrom being burned in the fields.

Hemp comp os ites : Hemp Eyewear makes handcra�ed eyewear frames using thefibre's light and strong characteristics. 100% plant-based, the brand recently added asuperfood-dyed frame range using beetroot, spirulina, chlorophyll and turmeric, eachwith unique temple designs.

The same material and process was applied to its cannabis-basedHemp MVMNT watch face, teamed with a pineapple leaf strap.

Flax comp os ites : Projectkin has created flax-based Kin Carry-On travel cases that aimto reduce travel's environmental impact. Designed by Copenhagen studio Boris BerlinDesign, the shell material is a non-woven flax and PLA composite, said to save up to2kg of plastic compared to conventional carry-ons.

Pelas̓ mobile phone cases are made in Flaxstic, flax straw waste and biopolymers, withthe flax fibre and shives giving a vegetal look and maintaining biodegradability, whilekeeping the polymer's strength.

How you can action this : consider plant waste bio-composites part of a zero-wastestrategy, lessening reliance on oil-based materials and providing local farmers withadditional revenue sources.

Hemp Eyewear has added organic colours to hemp eyewear using superfoods beetroot, spirulina,chlorophyll and turmeric. Each colour has its own ‘mini collection’ and branding

Hemp EyewearHemp Eyewear

10

Accessory focus: jute

A cra� revival and focus on sustainable, natural materials has helped coarser bastfibres such as jute gain attention as it is well suited to # refinedhandcra� accessoriessuch as bags, shoes and small goods.

Jute is mainly grown in India in the Ganges Delta, where it produces a high yield annualcrop, and is used for many India-made accessories.

Ellyla creates good quality UK-designed, eco-friendly bags, and the plain-fibrerange includes many styles in jute cultivated from crops in Bangladesh, ethicallyhandcra�ed by Indian artisans.

Mallorcan-based sustainable apparel and footwear brand Pla's handmade slip-on juteclogs are made entirely from a plaited jute braid hand-sewn by cra�swomen inBangladesh.

Rustic jute coffee bags and grain sacks are being upcycled into novel, zero-wastefootwear and accessories. Brazilian footwear brand Marcela B's coffee bag juteespadrilles make use of unique graphic placements, while coffee brand Iron & Firediversified into castro caps as a way to use up its jute coffee sacks, with each hat comingwith a free bag of fresh roasted coffee beans.

How you can action this : partner up on fair and equitable partnerships with artisancommunities and native, locally grown bast fibres, putting focus on well cra�ed,sustainable and ethically made products.

Ellyla's plant-based vegan bags are handmade using natural and sustainable plant �bres. Featuredhere is a half moon-shaped organic jute clutch bag

EllylaEllyla

11

Farm-to-closet traceability

As consumers now expect brands to guarantee transparent supply chains, fibretracking allows fibre growers to pass assurances to the brands' final customers.

Hemp's CBD pharmaceutical benefits could be potentially undermined by illegalfarming, so it's been ripe for global blockchain innovations.

Trackable hemp: in 2021 industrial hemp and hurd company Panda Biotech andscientific traceability firm Oritain signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) to co-develop "the world's first fully traceable hemp fibre". Oritain will authenticate Panda'sUS fibre using forensic science and statistics instead of barcodes or other tracersystems.

Pakistans̓ vertical denim maker AGI Denim has joined Panda as its first global partner,allowing both parties and brand partners to identify, track and trace the fibre along thesupply chain.

Traceable flax: The European Confederation of Flax and Hemp (CELC) usesits Masters of Linen mark to certify European linen for fibre to yarn and fabrictraceability, with its member spinners, weavers and knitters certified and audited bythird-party auditors and certification bodies Centrocot and Centexbel.

How you can action this : evaluate how blockchain technology can help to verify yourproducts from farm all the way to the final product.

Pakistan’s denim manufacturer AGI Denim and Panda Biotech have partnered up with Oritain totrack and trace hemp from the American farmers all the way through to denim products

12

Certi�cations and standards

Linen: Masters of Linen is a register mark and sign of excellence for 100% Made inEurope linen from field to fabric, affiliated to CELC.

The European Flax label certifies traceability at every step of linen, from flax seed tofinal product, audited by Bureau VERITAS.

The REEL Linen Code is a new code of conduct to support more sustainable linen (a�erCotton Connect's REEL Cotton Code).

Hemp: the European Industrial Hemp Association (EIHA) represents industrial hempfarmers and producers, nationally and in Europe.

Organic fibre: Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC) is awarded to farms and productsthat meet the highest standards for soil health, animal welfare and fairness, overseenby Regenerative Organic Alliance.

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is a global textile processing standard fororganic fibre (at least 70% organic fibre), including social and ecological criteria, andthird-party certified.

Organic Content Standard (OCS) guarantees material traceability in manufacturing. TheOCS 100 mark certifies 95%-100% organic fibre.

USDA-certified organic produce is grown and processed according to federalguidelines, including soil quality, pest control and additives.

Safe chemicals : Bluesign, ZDHC, OEKO-TEX Standard 100 and REACH (Registration,Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals).

The European Flax label certi�es traceability at every step of processing. from �ax seed to �nalproduct

European FlaxEuropean Flax

13

1 2345Action points

Going hand-in-hand withorganic agriculture, bastfibres work holistically withregenerative farming practicesand can help to improve soilhealth, biodiversity, farmlivelihoods and helpmitigate the climate crisis dueto carbon sequestration

As legislation on hempbecomes more lenient, followin the denim industry'sfootsteps and look at hemp'spotential to offset the over-reliance of cotton in theapparel industry and broadenyour natural fibre offer

Partner with fibre innovatorsthat transform agriculturalcrop residues such as hemp,flax and other agri-fibres intoscientifically advanced bio-based fibres as part of abigger strategy on circularfibre innovation

Lesser-known bast fibres aregaining some traction withbrand innovators andconscious labels due to theirnatural origins andenvironmental benefits.Source these via fair andequitable partnerships tosupport rural communitiesand preserve local trade

Third-party greencertifications will evidencesustainable credentials andalign business values withproduct development. Makeuse of technical help andindustry frameworks, andleverage for productdifferentiation and marketingopportunities. Use textiletagging to track bast fibresthrough the value chain

Evaluate theenvironmental bene�tsof bast �bres as part oflonger-termregenerative �bresourcing

Consider cottonisedhemp as a means tobalance cotton's marketdominance

Innovate with bio-engineered circulartechnologies andperformance �bres

Work with lesser-known�bres to support ruraleconomies and aid �brebiodiversity

Use third-partycerti�cation to evidenceand trace sustainability

14

The Sustainability Index: the opportunities and challenges of sustainablepractice

Pros

Bast fibres such as flax, hemp, jute, ramie and other lesser-known fibres are classedas the lower-impact fibre group as they commonly require little irrigation ortreatment, have a low impact on soil and sequester carbon into soil

The increased use of native bast fibres from around the world could help brandsestablish fair trade, equitable and sustained income for millions of small-scalefarmers in some of the country s̓ poorest rural areas

Hemp's ecological benefits are garnering interest in some market sectors such asdenim, as the fibre has the potential to rebalance this market's over-reliance oncotton and free up cotton-growing land for food growing

Cons

Processing bast fibres such as ramie, linen and some hemp involves harmfulprocessing chemicals, unless lower-impact or closed-loop routes are taken. Insome regions, inefficient fibre processing and production could hamperenvironmental credentials

Bast fibre production is estimated to only represents around 6% of the total globalfibre production, so this fibre's impact on the industry is still relatively smallcompared to cotton, the most dominant natural fibre

As restrictions on hemp growing eases, the eco-credentials of hemp could be stillbe undermined by illegal growing and farming practices or inefficient processing

15

Related reports

Sustainability &Innovation: Cellulosics –From Forest to Fashion

The Future Fabrics Expo2021

Sustainability &Innovation: Cotton – FromFibre to Fashion

Sustainability &Innovation: Denim FibreUpdate

Big Ideas 2023: Fashion

16