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travel

The sprawling streets of Tokyo can be seen from the window of Iyashi

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TOKYO STATE OF MIND The Japanese capital, with its bright lights, cool aesthetic and enticing food, has long been a favourite for short breaks. On this trip, Riva Hiranand is able to embrace the local culture like never before, thanks to her trusty destination concierge.

Tokyo possesses an inimitable charm that is hard to pinpoint. From centuries-old cultural traditions that are still

upheld today and the endearing politeness of everyone you meet, to the peculiar calm of the Shibuya streets even during rush hour, the city is enchanting. Exploring the world’s largest metropolis, it is easy to get lost, whether veering through alleyways lined with izakaya in Shinjuku, bar-hopping in Roppongi, shopping in Shibuya, strolling in Yoyogi park or grabbing a coffee at one of the hip cafes in Ebisu.

Visiting the city in early December, our destination is Iyashi, Rediscovered’s Tokyo residence. The penthouse of a residential high rise in Aobadai, a trendy suburb of Shibuya, Iyashi is a 20-minute drive from Haneda airport. It’s a smart location, neighbouring the up-and-coming fashion and design hub of Daikanyama and the canal-side homes of Nakameguro.

At Iyashi, I’m greeted by Ayako, my destination concierge. The residence is true to its name (iyashi means soothing in Japanese) – Ella Fitzgerald serenades from a speaker, a Christmas tree glimmers in the corner, and warmed floor tiles stave off the winter chill. Ayako thoughtfully proffers a warm towel, steaming green tea deftly poured into ceramic cups, and a small matcha (green tea) cake. The twinkling lights of Tokyo beckon me to the floor-to-ceiling windows and their unobstructed views of the sprawling metropolis below.

The penthouse is the height of relaxed elegance. A plush couch with fluffy cushions lures you to laze in front of the flat-screen television. Or park yourself in the comfortable white chaise by the window to unwind or delve into one of the books on Japanese culture that are laid invitingly on the square stone coffee table. The kitchen is equipped with built-in Miele appliances and sleek shelving that hide intricate Japanese crockery, while the bedroom, with its king-size bed facing giant windows, offers calm hues of grey and beige, leather chairs and wooden furniture. I retire early for our 5.45am start the following day.

GONE FISHING Twenty minutes by car from Aobadai is the biggest wholesale fish market in the world. Tourists, like myself, wake at the crack of dawn to gain a coveted seat at Tsukiji’s 5.30am tuna auction and will queue for hours to eat here at Tokyo’s best sushi haunts. Thanks to Rediscovered, we have an expert guide, chef Takashi Usuba of Sushi Kanesaka. Clad in boots and raincoats to shield us from the sheets of rain, we navigate past speeding electronic scooters through the twists and turns of the jogai-shijo (outer area) where an

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with a bow and apologise for drinking first. Placing the cup in my left palm, and turning it so as to not drink from the front, I take a sip. Earthy at first, but with a sweet aftertaste, it is a warm delight on an exceptionally cold day.

Our host trusts us enough to let us try ikebana, a complex art that is hard to master. Curly willow is often used as a focal point in Japanese flower arrangements due to the beauty of its curved lines that contrast with the straight stems of other popular plants. Flowers that reflect the season are used; in our case, purple irises and yellow daisies. I choose a wide bowl, strategically arranging the daisy leaves as tall counterpoints to the yellow and purple petals that line the bottom, while the willow towers above.

SUSHI, SASHIMI, SAKE After a quick shopping expedition in Shibuya, we return to Iyashi and find that Chef Usuba has transformed the living room into a sushi kitchen. A wooden display case gives us a hint of the 12-course feast to come. We toast before the first course of shiro ebi (raw shrimp) with uni (sea urchin). A refreshing start to the meal, the ebi is sweet, blending beautifully with the thick texture of the uni.

We work our way through the array of seafood, consuming familiar slices of sashimi like otoro, horse mackerel and flounder, as well as seasonal delicacies such as karasumi (salted mullet roe), ankimo (monkfish liver) and baby crabs. The standout is the finale, a moreish bowl of uni and rice topped with

array of seafood is available; oysters glisten, crustaceans crawl around in tanks, and fresh sea urchins, already halved, are ready for inspection.

Chef Usuba leads us to the very back of the market and his eyes glitter as he motions for the stall owners to bring out a “surprise”: a 2.6-metre-long bluefin tuna from Oma, Aomori prefecture. Weighing in at 259kg, the tuna will produce more than 1,000 pieces of sashimi. Cutting the fish is a scrupulous task, accomplished with a metre-long, sword-like knife. There is no hacking and chopping here, only respectful and skilful slicing, as if it is an art.

We are offered a rare culinary treat, nakaochi (tuna rib), which is only available in peak season. The meat is scraped from between the bones, and its silky texture is melt-in-your-mouth delicious.

A TASTE OF CULTURE We return to Iyashi for an afternoon of culture. Kumiko Ishioka, a kimono master, swiftly puts my hair a bun, and then works diligently to transform me into an elegant Japanese woman. We decide on a cream kimono with a traditional blue pattern; lengths of ribbon and string fly in front of my face as she quickly clips, alters and ties. A kimono is much harder to wear than it looks, and I struggle not to topple over as Kumiko-san instructs on how to stand, sit and walk gracefully.

The traditional Japanese tea ceremony, sado, follows. We sit seiza-style on a red mat, facing our host. First, we bow, and then we eat wagashi, a small sweet. Hot water that has been boiled atop a charcoal fire is poured onto matcha powder in a teacup; we whisk the brew until the surface is frothy. Before partaking, we must give thanks to the host

TOKYO REDISCOVEREDBACCARAT visited Tokyo courtesy of Rediscovered, an exclusive membership club that offers stress-free travel. Rediscovered arranges everything from flights and accommodation to dining and cultural experiences. Members stay in luxury residences in prime locations, where destination concierges create special itineraries using their exceptional local knowledge. Rediscovered currently has more than 20 residences in nine countries. See www.re-discovered.com.

glistening balls of ikura (salmon roe). A 45-minute drive the following morning

out to Kanagawa prefecture finds us at Inouye Sake Brewery and in the informative hands of company president Hiroshi Inouye. The Inoue family has been in the business for 200 years, since an ancestor happened upon a rock that looked like a sake bottle, which he interpreted as a message from God to begin brewing sake. The process – involving rice, yeast and a microorganism called koji that aids fermentation – is delicate and takes time; Inouye compares it to making wine. We stand on planks of wood to peer into vats of mashed sake. The company’s best-selling brew, Hakoneyama, is distinguished by an element of sweetness, and their sweet and sour sake is a specialty.

SPRINGS IN THE SNOWWe venture up into the mountains of Hakone to Gora Kadan (www.gorakadan.com), a luxury ryokan where the Imperial family used to vacation. Tokyo visitors are drawn to the many onsen in Hakone, and I’m no exception. Upon arrival, I’m led outside and down a pebbled pathway to a small, gated cabin where I am to change for my private hot-spring bath. Steam rises from the stone pool, and the sun glints off the water. I dip a toe in to check the heat before sinking in and relaxing. Crisp leaves fall and the wind blows furiously, yet I feel at peace.

The restaurant at Gora Kadan is the former summer residence of Prince Kaninoniya and it serves a traditional Japanese kaiseki lunch. As we savour a variety of fresh seafood accompanied by root vegetables, a light snow falls. On a whim we decide to head up to Owakudani, where the snow tumbles down in thick sheets. On the drive back the city, we are treated to a beautiful view of Mount Fuji. It is said that seeing Mount Fuji is auspicious and will bring you back to Japan – I can only hope that day will be soon.

The height of relaxed elegance –Rediscovered's Tokyo penthouse, Iyashi

Chef Usuba deftly prepares a 12-course sushi feast for us

A typical morning scene at Tsukiji market

The art of sado, the traditional Japanese tea ceremony

Mount Fuji is one of Japan's most recognisable icons, visible from Tokyo on a clear day

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