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A/
W 12
A/W 12
10 Crosby Derek Lam
Acne
Alejandro Ingelmo
Alessandra Rich
Alexander Wang
Alice
Balmain
Brian Atwood
Burak Uyan
Camilla and Marc
Carolina Herrera
Christian Louboutin
Christian Siriano
Collette Dinnigan
Costume National
David Szeto
Derek Lam
Diane Von Furstenberg
Edun
Elie Saab
Elizabeth and James
Erdem
Erin
Hakaan
Helmut Lang
Hockley
Honor
Huishan Zhang
Isabel Marant
J. Mendel
Jason Wu
Jonathan Saunders
Lela Rose
Lover
Lulu & Co
Marchesa
Marios Schwab
Matthew Williamson
Michael Angel
brand directory
Moka
Monique Lhuillier
Naeem Khan
Nicholas Kirkwood
Oscar de la Renta
Peter Pilotto
Peter Som
Pierre Balmain
Prabal Gurung
Preen
Pretty Ballerinas
Proenza Schouler
Rabih Kayrouz
Rachel Zoe
Randa Khalil Raad Jewellery
Roksanda Ilincic
Roland Mouret
Shi
Skaist Taylor
Tashia
Temperley London
Theyskens’ Theory
The Row
Victoria Beckham
VICTORIA Victoria Beckham
VPL
Zac Posen
Z Spoke
Zero + Maria Cornejo
bridal
Carolina Herrera
Christian Louboutin
Elie Saab
Lela Rose
Marchesa
Monique Lhuillier
Oscar de la Renta
Welcome to the Autumn/Winter 2012 edition of Muse. Join us in our 11th overflowing
edition, dedicated to our exciting designers and the most stylish looks for the season
ahead.
Making a statement defines the desires of this season, and we aspire to make your choices
even more accessible in the future. The eagerly anticipated launch of our new website
combined with our incorporation of social media; particularly Instagram, takes us one
step closer to our devoted clientele.
Yet even with this instant access technology, we still hold strong to our favorite fashion
accessory, our Muse Magazine. Flip through these pages and you will find that the
AlOthman team have tracked the most exciting new talents, providing a paradise for
fashion lovers.
Over the past few months the AlOthman team has grown as a result of all these new
operations and it is very exciting to have these new and enthusiastic personalities in our
team. You can check out our O blog, Instagram and Twitter for an insight into what our
team members are up to and see what is inspiring them every day.
Once again I would like to show my gratitude to the devoted and dedicated team behind
this edition of Muse and to thank also our fellow readers for their continued support.
Autumn/Winter 2012
4 5
BARO
QU
E RE
VOKE
This season is concentrated on moving away from modern minimalism and into lavish Italian baroque. Inspired by the 16th century Michelangelo’s artwork and adding a luxurious sophistication to the dull winter season. Opulent brocade, gold embroidery, and decadent rich colors were spotted in Oscar de la Renta, Temperley London, and Monique Lhuillier’s runways.
If you feel overwhelmed with the intricacy of this trend try experimenting with shoes from designers like Brian Atwood to maintain a simple but alluring outfit.
THE M
ATRIX
Elie
Saa
b
Rach
el Z
oe
Der
ek L
am
Rabi
h Ka
yrou
z
Helmut Lang
Brian Atwood
Alex
ande
r Wan
g
Edun
Osc
ar d
e la
Ren
ta
Chris
tian
Siria
no
Wes
Gor
don
Oscar de la Renta
Nicholas Kirkwood
Mon
ique
Lhu
illie
rTe
mpe
rley
Lond
on
Prabal Gurung
Jaso
n W
u
Donning a head-to-toe black leather can
be overpowering so stick to limiting it
to one piece or mix-it-up with different
textures to create depth.
Get inspired with the Matrix! Take a walk on the dark side this season with leggings, blazers, and dresses made of streamlined lush leathers and gothic blacks. This trend, as seen on Alexander Wang, Helmut Lang, and Rabih Kayrouz, is definitely not for the faint hearted.
6 7
DAR
K RO
MAN
CEDark, seductive, and sultry are what comes to mind with this winter trend. Dark Romance was inspired by a movement that took place during the 1800s by the "Romantic Literary Movement". Channel this trend with its heavy textured velvets against soft dainty lace, and clash of soft and rugged textures a la Christian Siriano, Elie Saab, and Hakaan.
The sweet darkness of this trend can only be completed with a bare face, a dark pout, and leaving it at that.
ZESTY ORAN
GE
Hon
or
Hon
or
Pree
n
Mon
ique
Lhu
illie
r
Matthew Williamson
Nicholas Kirkwood
Proe
nza
Scho
uler
Tem
perle
y Lo
ndon
Bura
k U
yan
Hak
aanNicholas
Kirkwood
Alex
ande
r Wan
g
Pete
r Pilo
tto
Mon
ique
Lhu
illie
r
Nae
em K
han
Elie
Saa
b
Osc
ar d
e la
Ren
ta
In order to avoid literally resembling an orange, use color blocking with
vivid hues or tone it down with a neutral palette. Another way to embrace
this trend is picking up an orange lipstick to leave that pop of color on your
lips...just make sure to choose a color that goes well with your skin tone!
Fall 2012 runways were freshened up in various hues of burnt, tangerine, pumpkin, and even red orange. The bold and fresh color compliments the warmth of bronze and perfectly offsets winter grays, as presented by Matthew Williamson, Proenza Schouler, and Zac Posen. This is one trend that is guaranteed to cure your winter blues!
Chris
tian
Siria
no
Zac
Pose
n
Wes
Gor
don
Osc
ar d
e la
Ren
taZa
c Po
sen
8 9
SHEE
R &
LACE
There were sheer and lacey fabrics galore this Fall 2012 season, whether it was through colorful romantic lace by Erdem and Alessandra Rich or sultry sheer panels by Marios Schwab and Elie Saab. Dare to bare your shoulders, arms, or back with these delicate fabrics to accent any of your feminine features.
Sheer elements work best with other delicate fabrics including soft cashmere, silk, and fur. Finish off your look with romantic curls and soft make up.
Ales
sand
ra R
ich
They
sken
s’ Th
eory
Mar
ios S
chw
ab
Mat
thew
Will
iam
son
Mar
ios S
chw
ab
Erde
m
Elie
Saa
b
Mon
ique
Lhu
illie
r
Ales
sand
ra R
ich
Colle
tte
Din
niga
n
Osc
ar d
e la
Ren
ta
Osc
ar d
e la
Ren
ta
10 11
THE O BLOGa l o t h m a n - f a s h i o n . c o m
AlOthman Blog is the number one destination for fashion enthusiasts and shopaholics in Kuwait. It provides a daily editorial of the hottest and most sought after designer clothes and accessories carried by AlOthman. This issue, we present you with a special Q&A with Erdem.
Who would you love to see in your
designs?
Are there references hidden within your prints?
They are an integral part of the collection. There are always little secrets hidden in the artwork, you have to
look really hard.
Any future collaborations as
well?
Are you planning on expanding
your swim wear collection?
Continuing our shoes with
Nicholas Kirkwood. He is amazing!!
Which city would you like to visit soon?
Yes I would love to expand my swimwear collection. Resort was the first time I dipped my toes in so to speak.
A Chat With
The Queen, I met her last week, and I thought she looked lovely!! She would be fantastic to
dress.I would love to visit
Buenos Aires…It seems like a special place, and I have never explored
South America.
12 13
Wanting to link this season with Acne Paper, we took cue from the subject of the next issue, the Body in Art. Looking at the body through artists we were attracted to, we built a collection with unexpected clashes between materials, textures, colour and shape. The distorted abstraction of surrealist photographer André Kertész, came to inspire the contoured panelling and wave like volumes. Taking this volume, containing and trapping it around the waist, create interesting, almost surreal shapes. Examining the work of Hans Bellmer and his sculptures inspired us to make the collection more daring. Painter Hanneline Røgeberg inspired a colour card of varying tones of fleshy pinks and dusty beiges, contrasted with flashes of unexpected eye-popping colour.
12
Acne
14 15
"Oh! What would make her waken?" asked the Queen weeping."Love", replied the fairy, "If a man of pure heart were to fall in love with her, that would bring her back to life!"Broken hearted the Queen replied "How can a man fall in love with a sleeping girl?"(Extract from Sleeping Beauty by Brothers Grimm)Lazy, moody and light, the Alessandra Rich woman is ready to go to bed in a slip. Before closing her eyes she yawns and frees all her restless beauty. The dress that she wears wraps her like freshly ironed linen and on her head a halo of thorns is her pillow. Like a rose, she sleeps the space of a night, so beautiful and feint it fades the memory of the day. Like a princess she dresses the pastel colours, peach, yellow, blue and cream, with sheer black tights that draw the profile of her ankles and a black cape to shadow her face.She lays over small fil coupé flowers and lets herself go to her sleep and like a happy Ophelia she dreams of lace and taffeta, amongst clouds of chiffon and skies of silk sablé.This is how a man can fall in love with a sleeping beauty.
14 15
Alessandra Rich
16 17
The Alexander Wang Fall 2012 collection’s overarching theme is about tension and the contrasts that exist between opposing elements seen through a fractured view. A surrealistic approach is taken as the collection follows the idiosyncrasies of extreme fabric manipulation: lacquered tweed, laminated silks and knits, waxed suede, knits bonded to leather to resemble rubber. Outerwear, particularly as a rain coat, is a prominent silhouette that evokes a feeling of covering and layering, and it is unclear where one layer ends and another begins. The concept of shrink wrapping is graphically depicted in smocked leather and chiffon; knits have double layers that appear to be inflated and then sealed. Color palette is predominately black and white with accents of oxblood, ion, carbon, sulfur and iodine. A uniform look inspires this season’s accessories, with both shoes and bags fabricated in the same leather that is minimal and left raw.
16 17
Alexander Wang
18 19
Balmain
18 19
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For the Fall Winter 2012/13 season, Brian Atwood offers his glamorous imprint on a complete world of accessories.
A strong fetish undercurrent, created from double-zips, bold buckles, and racy lacing, gives an edge to the shoe collection. At the same time, footwear is elevated to a precious object, with hyper attention paid to special details like metal ornamentation, knotted straps, and spherical slicing. Hand-inlaid metal mesh sundial disks, for example, cluster around the back of suede pumps, while metal chain fringe adds an exotic touch to booties. Tangles of curved straps recall the twisting of freeways in Los Angeles. Edged in gold or micro chains, the undulations create a sense of sensual movement for the foot on high-heeled sandals and booties. Key silhouettes are sky-high platforms and single-sole constructions that give a fresh, down-to-earth look to high-heeled booties and pumps. The detailing is exceptional, including raised passamaneria motifs that give a rich look to ankle booties and sandals. Cuissard boots, featuring bold, intricate lacing in suede, nappa or printed pony skin, are the ultimate in throw-me-down footwear, while day-friendly flat boots offer a new clean silhouette.
Animal prints, such as zebra, giraffe and dalmation patterns, are rendered in a graphic black and white palette. Shots of deep color, from fuschia and rust to petrol blue and puddy grey, are mixed freely in bands of silk or suede.
Brian Atwood
21
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My shoes contain a voyeuristic sensibility ... It's like flirting with your shoes while catching
everybody's attention around you. -Burak Uyan
Burak Uyan
""
24 25
Carolina Herrera
For Fall/Winter 2012 Carolina Herrera New York is focused on saturated color and a juxtaposition of weights and textiles. The collection exudes femininity and is tailored for the beautiful, seductive and modern woman of today. Drawing on no particular time or era but on the basis of all things glamour, Fall/Winter 2012 offers an exemplary range from day dresses to separates to evening gowns. Jackets are cropped this season, shown with fitted pencil skirts, thus further elongating the leg. Silhouettes are trim and body conscious with an accentuation on natural curvature and movement.
24 25
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Christian Siriano
"My inspiration for Fall '12 are bats and specifically the '30s film The Vampire Bat. These flying demons of the night intrigue me with their creepy, dark and dramatic presence, as well as the intricate details of their veins and the bone structure of their wings. I find beauty in the wings of the bat, which can be seen in the details of the clothing -- leather appliqués, ethereal flowing silk crepe dresses, tops and capes taking flight. The black and white '30s film featured lead actress Fay Wray, who was elegant and sophisticated wearing beautiful blouses tucked into long evening skirts in black and white -- a look juxtaposed with the core horror content and backdrop of the movie. The grainy nature of the old film inspired the color palate and the modern prints seen throughout the entire collection. - Christian Siriano "
28 29
Cut-To-The-Body Shapes, Darkly Glittering. Precision Dresses Densely Layered With Sequins. Innocence And Experience, The Ingénue Inside Every Woman. Sculpted Australian Merino Wool,Signature Lace. Virgin White, Glacé Cherry Ripe. Strong, Defined, Refined. Shameless.
28 29
Collette Dinnigan
30 3130
Derek Lam
For Fall 2012 Derek Lam goes to the Library.Inspiration comes from images of historical libraries from around the world, and pays homage to a time when reading and intelligence were about getting dressed and researching from a place other than a computer screen. Lam’s muse this season is an intellectual and aesthete, who remains chic but nerdy in the coolest and most subversive way imaginable.
32 33
Diane Von Furstenberg
A Rendez-vous is a meeting with suspense and expectation…
– Diane von Furstenberg and Yvan Mispelaere
""
32 33
34 3534 35
Edun
The Edun girl loves to mix it up. She has taken her punk rock roots on safari, and she has come back with a contagious affinity for electric colors, animal prints, and handcrafted knits.
The mash-up of 80’s vibe leathers, bonded plaids, mesh, and tech-finished fabrics are juxtaposed with African safari prints are the inspiration of EDUN’s FW 2012 Women’s collection.
Sharon Wauchob explores this fusion of electric energy and global influence that puts a fresh spin on a modern bohemian.
36 3736 37
Elie Saab
Urban and perfectionist, the ELIE SAAB woman conquers with restraint in suits with nipped waists and precise lines.
Dresses have marked waists, from shifts in crêpe georgette to silhouettes with body-skimming panels and cut-out details.
By way of contrast, cobweb lace inserts bring a touch of graphic chic to collars, necklines and sleeves; a print casts bronze-tinged branches onto delicate chiffon. For evening, she slips into embroidered sheaths illuminated by matte gold sequins and crystals. Light pours over her: metallic reflections echo silver, opaline and pearly translucence. She shines like moonglow.
38 3938 39
Elie Saab
40 41
Elizabeth and James AW 2012 collection reinvents vintage classics through a lens of tailored silhouettes and utilitarian fabrics for a versatile, street-chic wardrobe.
40 41
Elizabeth and James
42 43
Eccentric collectors of the 50s and 60s provide the inspiration for Erdem's AW12 collection - the bold and incomparable style of fearless dressers such as arts patron Betty Freeman, Marcia Weisman and Peggy Guggenheim, who combined classic and often dramatic silhouettes with bold colours in a mismatched, idiosyncratic style.
42 43
Erdem
44 45
Erin Hakaan
For Autumn-Winter 2012, Erin Fetherston imagines a world of glamazons living in a new age fairytale. Equal parts magic and romance, the designer presents an electrified vision inspired by imagery from the natural world. Gemstone inspired shades of jade, cobalt, amethyst and ruby energize Fetherston’s signature palette of dreamy pastels. Glittery accents of crystal, silver, and gold dazzle in metallicized fabrics and sparkle through sequin, bead, and stone embellishments. Fantasy feather prints and abstract florals introduce an element of psychedelic chic to a fabric story rich in texture that alternates from the organic to the electric.
44
This season Hakaan is looking for a strong iconic woman flirting with past and future.On the rhythm of Scorses's classic After Hours music, she is moving with sculptural strong shape illuminated by neutral monochrome color: copper, black, metallic blue, grey, green. Hakaan is destructing the structure to embellish the silhouette with new volume and minimal high-tech fabric.Oversize zipper on fragile dress, skirt and top are mixed with leather jump suit, luxurious leather with a touch of military green fur, brocart pieces, high waisted skirt and black spike on boots reinforce the message of modern independent feminity.
45
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Helmut Lang
46
The starting point of inspiration for the Fall 2012 Collection came from a modern interpretation of The Game of Thrones guardians, who watched over the two mythical lands of the seven kingdoms and the haunted woods. Their dual existence of forest life and a stark minimal world is embodied in the mixing of hard and soft fabrics, tree bark printed leather and minimal body conscious silhouettes. The polarity continues with tough warrior leathers and medieval amour details against delicate silk chiffons and rich red furs.
48 4948
Isabel Marant
49
50 5150
Jason Wu
Jason grew up in Taiwan exposed to a wide variety of iconic Chinese imagery from the Qing Dynasty to the instantly recognizable military Mao jacket to 1940’s Hollywood take on China. For his Fall/Winter 2012 Collection he reappropriated these Chinese icons and reimagined them through his multicultural eyes.
Jason admired the colorful prints and brocades from the royal court of the Qing Dynasty and used these as a point of reference. He deconstructed exotic Chinese motifs and mixed them with interesting materials to create colorful silk prints and refined embellishments. He played with a painted cloud in a silk dress and pants. He used brocades in pantsuits, a fitted jacket and dress, both with quilted army inspired details.
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Lela Rose
Lela Rose Fall 2012 centers around the fusion of structure and movement as seen in the works of Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava.
Calatrava’s focus on the poetics of motion combines romanticism with functionality as seen in linear labyrinth organza, hazed floral embroideries and carbonized silk.
Both an architect and engineer, Calatrava’s signature bridges and railway stations set the backdrop for long, angular silhouettes. Floor length day time dresses in cable-stayed plaid and grid lace stove pipe sleeves effortlessly balance geometry with a natural fluidity.
Brick fil coupé, galvanized organza, and silk cloqué are highlighted in colors such as rust, sulfurous amber, dark bronze and white silver.
53
54 55
Marchesa’s Fall 2012 collection takes inspiration from William Adolphe Bouguereaus famed 1878 portrait “A Soul Brought to Heaven”.Pale shades of nude, cream, ivory and blue are brushed with flower and cascade like feather details. Bronze and silver colored fabrics are delicately detailed with hand embroidered threadwork and gilded accents. Ornate drapes and wing like artwork adorn various silhouettes as do varied types of lace and tulle overlay.Shimmering skeleton body suits peak through dark shades of hand embroidered lace.Embellished bodices are paired with dramatic skirts in fiery shades of blood red, lame gold, teal, blanche and noir. Cocktails adorned with laser cut leather patterns and crimson pleated tulle adds a note of reverent.
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Marchesa
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Marios Schwab
This season, Marios returns to the femme fatale he previously encountered for his Spring/Summer collection. This season exploring her anonymity in further depth.Marios looks through the window of the woman, observing, A voyeur, she is obscured and not fully in view. Concealed and revealed by hats and leather gloves, you are still drawn to her want to know more.In the background Marios is listening to Mahler Symphony No. 5 in C minor, building the mood and atmosphere as the complexity of her character unravels.The seduction of curves builds on the idea of the femme fatale, dressing this haunting, mysterious and unknown character. The chiaroscuro of spring develops into veiling, A seductive game of concealing and revealing the body beneath clothing.Amorphous, organic necklines melt into the skin, fusing fabric and skin, seams spiraling and curves, forming, embroideries both to delineate the body and to create decorative foundations for specially created textiles.Designs and mirrored, twisted and repeated to create decoration with movement and flow as in nature. Schwab weaves his own lace, integrating the glimmer of sequins until it resembles chain-mail like fabric. Cloths have a subtle iridescence, embroidery and lace is chintzed to give sheen like lacquer.
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Matthew Williamson
For this season the imagined Matthew Williamson woman is celebrating the brands 15 year anniversary by way of a decadent ball in an English stately home.All the strands of the brand come together with a rich, eclectic display of textures, colours and patterns reworked into a fresh, paired back, graphic silhouette.The intricately worked pieces focus on a fusion of old and new, rich and naïve, day to evening elements. Inspiration is found in the notion of English eccentric dress-up and refined extravagance and opulence.
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Michael Angel
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Renowned New York print designer Michael Angel continues to claim his ground in the world of print, distinguishing himself through his strengths: unique development of engineered print, innovative fabrics and modern silhouettes.For Fall 2012, layered feather prints saturated in liquid-like swirls of mauve, burgundy, blue, green and black speak of softness and depth – signifying for the designer a newfound sense of freedom and a move towards an ethereal future. Singing harmoniously alongside the designer’s more poetic approach to his artwork this season, Angel imparts a color palette of gray hues, earthy stones and faded beiges in his outerwear and separates which echo the late interior designer Ward Bennett’s minimal style of the 70’s.Angel’s wit shines in his unconventional approach to the idea of texture for Fall, juxtaposing a heavyweight rib knit Trompe L’oeil effect, printed in various knit gauges on light sand washed Fuji silk, ponti knit jerseys and silk wool fabrications, then finally seen in its exaggerated literal version – a series of hand-knitted sweaters and a sculptural coat in heavy gauge wool yarn.Angel’s continued fondness of geometric lines is on display with the overall look a play on basic shapes – the sharp angles of the square versus the smooth elongated curves of the oval. Padded tube detailing on necklines add dimension and hint at the notion of futurism. Stand-out pieces include a dropped shoulder cropped coat with curved contrast sleeves, box pleat skirt in a luxurious mélange silk wool and a printed tube neck halter dress with a side slit.The collection is a fresh take on proportions and Angel’s focus on subtle sexiness provide the groundwork for a well-conceived collection, bringing out a softer, feminine side of Michael’s woman whilst remaining true to his signature bold prints and undertone of minimalism.
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Monique Lhuillier
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Sci-fi warrior goddess. Strong Shoulders. Long, lean silhouettes. Volcanic and lava prints. Fire reds are dominant reflecting the Year of the Dragon. Silks mixed with leathers to create a tougher, sexier woman for Fall.
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Naeem Khan
65
My prints were designed by dabbing white-out on black boards and printed in Switzerland. The paisleys, Tilakas, and swirl motifs are used as inspiration for all my metallic embroidery detail. It has taken hundreds of artisans and three months to put this together. This collection is a blend of various ancient artistic techniques used on both bodies and texiles, coming together in a vision fir for the 21st Century. – Naeem Khan
"
"
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Midnight in Paris' and the magical era from Chanel to Cocteau. A starting point was the 'Marcel Wave' or 'Finger Waves', the hairstyle that became a worldwide phenomenon. The end of the Belle Epoque and a new, modern, 'industrial' transformation. From Dadaism to Surrealism.
Nicholas Kirkwood
68 69
Oscar de la Renta
68 69
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Oscar de la Renta
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Peter Pilotto
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For the Autumn/Winter 2012 Peter Pilotto collection, designers Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos drew inspiration from various Asian subcultures. Their core printmaking expertise is still on full display but has been joined on the Catwalk by new embroidery techniques and innovative fabric development. “Light Trucks”, Japanese fetishized vehicles adorned with thousands of lights, are the first point of creative departure. Exaggerated images of these colourful lights are printed on stretch cady and are seen in chic separates and cap-sleeved dresses.
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Prabal Gurung
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This season draws from the creation of the blue rose and Georgia O’Keeffe’s artwork, particularly her “Cow Skull: Red, White, and Blue” painting. The collection transitions from dark hues to a palette of cool blues and ends with rich whites and vibrant gold. The pieces are beautifully crafted with quiet strength and femininity expressed through Gurung’s signature attention to form, structure and detail.
76 77
The Collector is Preen’s ambiguous titling for their esoteric exploration of the botanical studies of English author Beatrix Potter and the work of the Abstract Expressionists Jasper Johns and Mark Rothko for Autumn/ Winter 2012.
The significance of flora and fauna in the Victorian age is patch-worked against distorted checks and the big brush strokes of those prominent artists. The design duo’s perpetual preoccupation with opposing themes remains prevalent: the simplicity of the couture silhouette of the 1960’s is lent complexity by the myriad of references sliced into the fabric. From textural colour blocking to distorted check grids in silk and illustrative botanical imagery over-layed with silk organdie.
Intarsia knits feature both botanical leaves and monochromatic checks. A diaphanous French lace blouse features a sporty stripe cuff. Simple couture shaped dresses are embroidered with monochromatic Daisies. Tubular bows belt skirts and antique looking beading in crystals and chains adorn simple a-line dresses.
Preen
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Proenza Schouler
Last season saw Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough looking backward. Fall finds them looking forward with a collection that had its genesis in the idea of protection. The designers were vague backstage about what got them interested in the notion, but it doesn't matter. This was a daring show, in which they proposed new silhouettes, recommitted to the artisanal tendencies that have become a brand hallmark, and headed East for inspiration—think karate, kimonos, and Yoko Ono. Mrs. John Lennon circa 1970 provided the screeching soundtrack. "It's Asian," said Hernandez, describing the collection's look, "but in a New York way."
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Rabih Kayrouz
80 81
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Rachel Zoe
For Autumn/Winter 2012, Rachel Zoe drew inspiration form the rock and roll glamour of London in the late 60’s and such fashion icons and Marianne Faithful and Mick Jagger.Through the introduction of new silhouettes and fabrications, Rachel has reinterpreted classic cuts and styles to created a relevant and contemporary collection whilst retaining a cherished sense of nostalgia.The collection for Autumn/Winter 2012 includes a wide range of looks, including mini dresses, faux fur coats and the tailored menswear-inspired suiting, which has become iconic for the Rachel Zoe Collection each season.The new collection has an effortless feeling with rich jewel tones and a selection of seasonal and textured fabrics including velvet, sequins, leather, shaggy faux furs and classic tweeds combine to set the look and feel for the fall season.
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Fall / Winter is inspired by the original daring spirit of women bringing the comfort and practicality menswear into their lives, whilst adding an elegance and femininity to it. The collection works with deep, warm autumnal shades of burgundy, highlighted by cold daylight flashes of amethyst, white and jade. Evoking an outdoors, off screen and sporty spirit, flat shoes, tailoring and utilitarian fabrics are mixed in with gauze like silks, statement jacquards and graphic embroidery, to embrace a creative take on the androgynous 40's of Katherine Hepburn and Amelia Earhart.
Roksanda Ilincic
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Roland Mouret
I recently reflected on Paris winter 1947, the “big freeze”, had taken hold; it was one of the coldest on record. There was a sense of contradiction between a new rising elegance, an haute couture attitude, whilst others struggled to keep warm.I started thinking about the evolvement of layers, folding of garments and the creation of a protective layer around yourself-almost like building a barrier against the world. You build your own army, ready to go out on the hunt like a military soldier.This moment in time is a continuation of a busy year for me. -Roland Mouret
"
"
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Skaist Taylor
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Skaist-Taylor is us. It’s everything we are obsessed with, and want to wear now. The collection is who we are and who we have always been, a bit indulgent, wearable and perfectly California Eccentric. – Pam and Gela
"
"
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Temperley London
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The Temperley London AW12 collection, taking its inspirations from the Renaissance Movement, is a celebration of opulence with ornate decorative patterns and textures. Intense coloured embroideries and rich golden brocades are intertwined with a touch of magic from Slavic folklore. The collection is diverse and multi textural, containing embroidered structured satins, velvets, foiled crepes, laser cut taffetas, novel mohair knits, clever floral prints and heavy mixed embellishments.
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As he did for Pre-Fall, Olivier Theyskens used a print inspired by rock crystal. It rubbed off, in a manner of speaking, on a little bolero that looked dusted with gold glitter, and on snug zip-front jackets in metallic tweed. Sheer was another big theme; when this designer was at the forefront of the trend a couple of years ago, it was hard to imagine it sticking. But stick it has, and Theyskens' long see-through black skirt still looked cool with short shorts and one of the designer's signature slim blazers.
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Theyskens’ Theory
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The Row’s Fall / Winter 2012 presentation represents the journey of an American woman from day to night. Slightly irreverent, she plays with duality of season and time of day. She wears summer clothing in winter and daywear in the evening. The result is a relaxed and timeless elegance.
The Row
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Victoria Beckham
This season I challenged myself to explore how clothes can make women feel when they put them on and create an emotional attachment between the garment and the wearer. The idea of how the body can connect to the clothes through their construction and detail fascinates me.
The introduction of my new line has given me even more opportunity to really focus on the attention to structure and detail in this collection. I have been inspired to push the technical elements further and focus on producing pieces that embrace the quality and detailing that I believe to be the essence of the ready to wear.
I hope you will see how I have embodied all the key elements that I believe my collection stands for in each and every piece. I can’t wait to wear everything! – Victoria Beckham
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Wes Gordon
Fall 2012 finds the Wes Gordon woman simultaneously inspired by Charles Dickens and Stieg Larsson.Dark purple aubergine replaces navy this season, blending beautifully with oxblood, saffron, and malachite to offset a base palette of warm grays. Structure and tailoring, keystones of each collection, are romanticized with exaggerated hemlines and long, fluid shapes.Rich textures like golden fox fur, allover Swiss embroidery, chainmail and laser-cutting are seamlessly worked into tissue weight cashmere, satin, sheer chiffon and organza, yielding a modern edge to an otherwise Edwardian motif.A perfect balance of hard & soft, old & new, creating a disheveled elegance that is at once beautiful, youthful and fresh.
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Blending inspiration from the Orient with signature construction and fit, the Zac Posen Fall/Winter 2012 collection reinterpret couture traditions from the past for the American royalty of today. Elements of chinoiserie inform origami-like structures, while bias free-flowing gowns nest along-side opulent evening coats and anatomically seamed dresses.
Zac Posen
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Zac Posen
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Now an American citizen, Maria has been contemplating notions of identity and the ineradicable traces our lives leave behind us “I always find myself pulling from my past to create the future,” says Maria Cornejo.Lines are newly streamlined yet juxtapose opposite proportions – taking silhouettes that can almost feel antique and turning them ultra modern.An iPhone photo of a graphic still from silent movie becomes almost futuristic when pixilated onto silk; or hand knitted by a women’s cooperative in Bolivia into jacquard waistcoats and blanket knit coats.Maria’s son’s reflection in a Hydra swimming pool morphs into a cobalt and black print reminiscent of an evil eye to protect and bring good energy. In the Turbine Hall at the Tate Modern, Maria snapped the moving escalator stairs ahead. The image became an abstracted audio wave rendered in hi-def colored silk.
Zero + Maria Cornejo
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Salmiya, KuwaitTel + 965 2575 4954/5
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For inquiries email: [email protected]
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106 107Maryam Complex - Mezzanine floor, Salem Al-Mubarak Street, Salmiya, Kuwait - Tel + 965 2575 4958
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Maryam Complex, Mezzanine floorReady to Wear: +965 2575 4953 • Accessories: +965 2575 4960