AUSTRIAN AUSTRIAN ——ITALIAN JOURNEYITALIAN JOURNEY

• By Wen-Chung Chiang

January 11 – January 28, 2004

Siena

San Gimignano

Lucca

Vienna (Vienna (WienWien, , 維也納維也納 ))

I have been in Wien several times. To me, its prestige has

always been due above all to the musical tradition

preserved by the Opera and its famous orchestras.

Unfortunately in the past times when I was Wien, most

musical activities were also closed for summer vacations.

This year was the first time I attended a Wiener

Philharmoniker concert in the acoustically perfect Großer

Musikvereinssaal, and a production of Richard Strauss’

“Der Rosenkavalier” in the Wiener Staatoper. Both

performances were extraordinary and they marked the

highlights of our brief two-day stay in the city.

Two lovely ladies posing in

the Graben area of Wien.

The end of the road stands

the Dome of Michaelertor,

the entrance to the

Hofburg.

The magnificent carved

stone Virgin Mary (above)

and pulpit (right) of

Stephansdom, Wien

Program of the Wiener Philharmoniker concert on January 12, 2004

Program of the Wiener Staatoper performance on January 13, 2004

Venice (Venice (VeneziaVenezia, , 威尼斯威尼斯 ))

The scenic sights along the railroad crossing the Alps

from Wien, Austria to Venezia, Italy were well worth the

duration of almost eight hours sitting in the train. The

journey began at 9 AM in the morning in Wien, and when

we arrived in Venezia, the sun already set. We had

explored Venezia extensively last year, so we spent only

one night and one half day in the city this time. A casual

walk in Venezia, browsing in little specialty shops,

sipping a cup of Cappuccino and tasting various kinds of

Panini, was nothing short of delights.

One never gets tired of such kind of view typical in Venezia — old buildings, bridges and reflected images in the canal. In fact, Venezia kept surprising me no matter how many times I had visited it.

Ca’ d’Oro (Golden

House), Venezia. Although

it has lost the gilded

decoration which gave it its

name, the mansion retains

an elegant façade in the

ornate Gothic style.

Milan (Milan (MilanoMilano, , 米蘭米蘭 ))

Set in the heart of northern Italy at the foot of the Alps,

Milano is the second largest city of the country, and the

capital of Italian fashion. We had planned a short stay in

Milano for the purpose of seeing an opera in Teatro alla

Scala, the most famous opera in the world.

Unfortunately the theater was in the process of a major

renovation, therefore all performances were moved to

another venue quite off the city center. Well, that gave

us a strong excuse to come back again.

Duomo, Milano. The

Cathedral marks the climax

of architecture of the Gothic

period. Magnificent !

Castello Sforzesco, Milano.

This huge brick quadrilateral

building now houses several

museums.

Museo degli strumenti

musicali, Castello Sforzesco,

Milano — An extensive

collection of musical instruments.

Above: Glass Harmonica.

Museo degli strumenti

musicali, Castello

Sforzesco, Milano. Above:

Clavicembalo. Right: An

ancient organ.

Santa Maria delle

Grazie, Milano.

In the former refectory of

this Renaissance church

is the famous painting

“The Last Supper” by

Leonardo da Vinci.

One week in Tuscany (One week in Tuscany (ToscanaToscana))

Toscana is not just a frozen Renaissance portrait but a living

procession of daily lives with artistic setting, gourmet food

and more. The recent movie “Under the Tuscan Sun” casted

by Dianne Lane might give you some taste of how lives are

on this marvelous land. We’re very pleased that we had a

week in Toscana. We accommodated ourselves in a nice

hotel in Firenze (Florence) and commuted between Firenze

and nearby towns such as Siena, Pisa, San Gimignano, and

Lucca. Of course Firenze was full of fun by itself alone…

Santa Groce & Dante

Statue, Firenze. The

church and the cloisters of

Santa Groce give onto one

of the town’s oldest

squares, dated back in

1294.

• • Florence Florence ((FirenzeFirenze, , 翡冷翡冷翠 翠 ))

The tomb of Michelangelo (d 1564), Santa Groce

The 18C monument of Marchiavelli (d 1527), S. Groce

The tomb of Galileo (d 1642), Santa Groce

The tomb of Rossini (d 1868), Santa Groce

Above: San Miniato al Monte,

one of the oldest churches in

Firenze dominating a hilltop.

Right: Firenze, viewed from

Piazzale Michelangelo

The splendid golden mosaics on the dome of

Battistero, S. Maria del Fiore, Firenze

• • Siena (Siena ( 席恩那席恩那 ))

In July 1944 American and French troops surrounded Siena and forced the city to surrender. General Monsambert ordered troops not to “let any shells fall on Siena, otherwise you’ll be shot”. It’s a good story telling the historic and artistic treasures of Siena.

Right: Piazza del Campo. All roads in Siena lead to this shell-like piazza.

Above: Piazza del Campo;

Right: Palazzo Pubblico &

Torre on Piazza del Campo,

Siena.

Duomo, Siena. German composer Richard Wagner was so affected that he burst into tears at the sight of this cathedral.

Battistero, Piazza dei Miracoli

• • Pisa Pisa (( 比薩比薩 ))

Battistero, Duomo, & Torre

Pendente (Leaning Tower) on

Piazza dei Miracoli, Pisa

Duomo, Pisa

Camposanto & one of its wall frescoes, Pisa. This burial ground of

Pisa was begun in 1277 by Giovanni di Simone, one of the architects of

the leaning tower. Its galleries were paved with about 600 tombstones.

• • San GimignanoSan Gimignano

San Gimignano stands on a hilltop in the Tuscan countryside where vineyards flourish. The town looks very impressive when you approach it from below. The numerous Medieval towers have earned it the nickname “San Gimignano dalle belle torri (of the Fine Towers)”.

Right: Piazza della Cisterna, San Gimignano

San Gimignano wears a “crown of towers”

• • Lucca (Lucca ( 盧卡盧卡 ))

Lucca has a rich heritage of

churches, palaces, squares

and streets which gives the

town a charming air,

unscathed by contemporary

developments.

Right: Duomo, Lucca. The

cathedral, dedicated to St.

Martin, was rebuilt in the

11C.

Lucca, viewed from Torre

Guinigi, the highest point in

town.

The Pisan Romanesque façade of San Michele, Lucca

The visit of Lucca was not

complete without a touch of

Puccini. Giacomo Puccini

was born in 1858 in the

house behind the statue,

under reconstruction at the

time when we were there.

Roma was our last stop

before heading for home.

Since we had been in Roma

for an entire week last year,

the pictures shown here do

not necessarily represent the

most popular attractions of

the eternal city.

Right: The beautiful statue

posts of Palazzo Barberini

• • ROMEROME (ROMA, (ROMA, 羅馬羅馬 ))

Basilica di San Pietro, Vaticano.

Viewed from the top of Castel Sant’Angelo, Roma

An interesting garden

decoration/ statue shop in

Roma

Fontana dei Fiumi

(Fountain of the Four

Rivers), Piazza Navona,

Roma. The four river

statues – Danube,

Ganges, Rio de la Plata

and Nile, created by

Baroque master Bernini,

all turn their backs

against Sant’Agnese in

Agone (under

reconstruction in the

pictures), designed by

Bernini’s opponent

Borromini.

References

The Green Guide - Italy, Michelin Travel Publications, UK,

2001

Inside Guides: Tuscany, Discovery Channel, APA

Publications GmbH & Co., 1998; Updated 2002

知性之旅 - 羅馬 , Discovery Channel, APA Publications

GmbH & Co., 1999