From University of Illinois Extension and Master Gardeners of Woodford County, for Gardeners in West-Central Illinois

Master GardenerJournal

Woodford County

August 2011 Vol. 5 No. 4

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS

EXTENSIONMASTER GARDENER

Reviving a wilted container gardenSpecific and quick action is needed to save a wilted container garden.

It was a blisteringly hot day, and upon arriving home from work, my contain-ers of flowers and vegetables all looked perky — all except one. The leaves on

this particular plant had turned an abnormal grayish color, and the flowers were limp and flattened. I was afraid they might have reached permanent wilting point, the point at which no amount of water would revive the plant. Not a cheerful thought for any gardener.

Ever the optimist, Pollard watered the soil immediately and gave the others a drink too, just in case. But a good dousing of water quickly ran right through the pot in question. She watered again, but again the water suspiciously ran through the pot.

I poked my finger along the inside edge and found that the soil ball had shrunken away from the sides of the container, allow-ing the water to run easily down the sides. Dry soil repels water.

Clearly, this plant had been somehow neglected during my previous watering, so it needed special attention. I pulled out an old dishpan I use for various gardening chores, filled it halfway with water, plunged the bottom of the pot in the water, and put it in the shade to slow down the water loss. Then I went in and ate supper.

After supper, Pollard found the ball still separated from the sides of the pot. It was taking up some water, but not fast enough in her estimation.

I imagined the many preceding rainy days had kept it moist, but the full pot of foliage and flowers apparently had shed the rain. Pots need to be watered even if it rains. This lesson I seem to have to learn anew each year.

I doused the soil again. This time the water ran out the bottom and into the dishpan so now the pot was almost fully immersed in its rim. Gently I moved the vines that draped limply over the edge out of the water and arranged them over the sides of the pan so they were not submerged in water too. Wet leaves would only make them more prone to disease. It was the roots that needed water from the soil.

Satisfied that the weight of the pot would now force the water into the soil air spaces, Pollard knew the soil would have to take up water. She left it alone for an hour to do other activities. A friend stopped by and asked, "Why did you put it in a pan of water instead of just watering it?" She explained her inadvertent neglect.

Once potting soil dries out, it tends to repel water. Soaking it is one way to rehy-drate the soil ball. If the pot is too big to immerse, using a commercial wetting agent to lower the surface tension of the water would have also worked. In a pinch, a mild liquid detergent or soap (one-half teaspoon in one gallon of water) will act as a wetting agent.

Another trick I have used when the pot is very large is to poke several holes in the soil with a long stiff wire, then slowly, very slowly water. Repeatedly.

This is a tedious process. The holes provide numerous paths for water to travel inside the soil ball, rather than just escape down the sides. Immersing the pot in water in a shaded location is the least painful for all concerned.

Pollard’s efforts paid off. By the time the sun went down, the plant was perky and pretty again, and the foliage had dried.

It was back hanging outside my patio door, and the excess water drained freely. I

will be diligent to keep it from drying out again anytime soon, as a plant stressed by wilting is more prone to attack from insects and diseases. Had the foliage been wet and stayed wet on

that hot evening, it would have been even more susceptible to disease.

Time will tell how it fares. I slept well that night, knowing my quick action meant my flowers would live to cheer me another day.

Nancy Pollard, Horticulture Educator University of Illinois Extension

Heat, humidity, storms, bugs, weeds and mosquitoes all add to the drama in yards and gardens during the hot summer months. Here are a few tips for coping.

LawnLawns need about 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water per week to maintain their green color, so first decide whether or not to let your lawn go dormant during hot, dry summer weather.

Do not let the lawn go dormant and then start watering it again to green it up. This practice uses large amounts of the lawn’s food reserves.

Water lawns early in the day and avoid watering between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. This is the hottest part of the day, and you will lose 50 percent of the water you apply. Watering in the evening will increase the chances of disease problems. If watering with a sprinkler, place coffee cans in the area to measure water application rates. An inch collected in the can means an inch of water on the lawn.

During the latter part of summer when grass growth slows, mow the lawn at the 3-inch height. Lawns mowed at a higher height during the summer will have fewer weed problems and deeper roots.

Mowing too close just invites weeds. Also, don’t mow the grass when it is wet and never remove more than one-third of the grass leaf in any one cutting. If you mow your lawn on a regular basis, you do not need to collect the clippings. Clippings are 75 to 80 percent water and will decom-pose down into the lawn. Clippings have some nitrogen content, so less fertilizer is necessary.

If your lawn needs repair, late summer is the best time to do it. Seed bare spots when temperatures begin to cool off. This will allow the new growth to have enough time to germinate, grow and harden off before cold temperatures arrive. There is less com-petition from weeds in the fall because a lot of the annual weeds die out.

Ideally, dig the soil to at least 6 to 8 inches deep, spread grass seed over the area and tamp down. Keep the soil moist until germination. Cover with weed-free straw to conserve moisture. If you are laying down sod, water the new sod several times a day for one to two weeks until it begins to knit or take hold. Be sure that water goes down through the thick sod and moistens the soil underneath for good root development. Do not let sod dry out.

InsectsReduce favorable breeding sites for mosquitoes that cause West Nile virus. Keep your gutters free of debris because clogged roof gutters make great breeding sites. Clean and freshen water in pet dishes, wading pools and bird-baths. Cut back tall weeds and grass because they can be hiding places for mosquitoes during the day.

For more information, go to the Univer- sity of Illinois Extension web site: Preventing West Nile Virus (http://urbanext.illinois.edu/ westnile/).

Watch for the emerald ash borer. The adult borer is a 1/3- to 1/2-half inch-long emerald green bullet-shaped beetle.

In June and July, look for the adult beetle on leaves and trunks of ash trees. Look for 1/8-inch wide D-shaped emergence holes in the bark of ash trees. Female beetles will lay eggs and after the eggs hatch, larvae will bore through the bark into the cambium.

The larvae will feed, making winding tunnels under the bark, disabling the tree’s ability to take up food and water. Initial symptoms will include dieback at the top of the tree. The tree will usually die within two to three years.

For more information, go to the Univer- sity of Illinois Extension web site, Emerald Ash Borer Central at (http://bit.ly/EAborer).

Watch for yellowjackets in August. Yellow jackets are ½-inch long, yellow and black-banded wasps. Yellowjackets are attracted to open cans of pop, open gar-bage cans, perfumes and bright clothing. Keep garbage and pop covered with lids. Keep rotting fruit under trees cleaned up and avoid wearing brightly colored clothes. Above all, do not try to swat yellowjackets away with your hands and arms. Be aware that a yellowjacket can sting repeatedly.

They will only sting if they are disturbed.Check your roses and other ornamentals

for Japanese beetles. Adults are copper col-ored with shiny metallic green heads. They will skeletonize leaves during the day from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. The beetles may be active well into August. Control them by pick-ing the beetles off by hand. Japanese beetle traps may attract more beetles than they control.

Trees and ShrubsApply a 2- to 4-inch layer of organic mulch around trees and shrubs. Mulch the area under the tree to its drip line. The drip line is the circle that could be drawn on the soil around a tree directly under the tips of its outermost branches. Keep the mulch 4 to 6 inches away from the base of the tree or shrub to prevent rot. Organic mulches will reduce weeds and conserve moisture. As the mulch decomposes, it can be dug into the soil, thereby adding nutrients to the soil and improving soil structure.

Water trees and shrubs during hot, dry periods. It is especially important to water trees planted this growing season. Established trees will also need water if conditions remain dry. Water the entire root zone. The root zone area extends beyond the drip line or outermost branches of the tree. Avoid over-watering trees, especially those growing in clay soils. Trees have died because of roots sitting in very wet soils.

Edible PlantsWatch for blossom-end rot on tomatoes. The blossom ends of tomatoes turn brown to black. Peppers and summer squash can also have this problem. This is not a disease. The condition results from a calcium defi-ciency caused by wide fluctuations in soil moisture. Maintain even levels of soil mois-ture to control blossom-end rot. Applying mulch around tomato plants will help.

During hot weather, pick your tomatoes every couple days. Temperatures of 90º F and higher can speed up the softening pro- cess, slow down color development and reduce quality. Picking your ripening toma-toes will also keep the squirrels from snack-ing on them.

Cool Gardening Tips for a Hot Summer Yard

Ron Wolford, Horticulture Educator University of Illinois Extension

Deadheading— when, how and whyIn addition to using Latin terms, which some people feel is just a horticulturist’s way of showing off, gardening professionals use other confusing terms such as pinching, disbudding, stippling, dead-leafing and deadheading.

As with any profession, there are terms known and understood only by the professionals. Auto mechanics and computer technicians seem to speak their own language. But I didn’t realize it was true for gardeners until a friend pointed it out to me when I nonchalantly said her flowers should be deadheaded. Deadheading is removing old flowers. It also can involve removing foliage to improve the appear-ance of the plant.

Why deadheading helpsConsider the lovely tall bearded iris. This perennial can have two to four blooms along its stem in May. As they finish flowering, they go from stunning to mush-on-a-stem. Handpick each flower as it finishes to improve the appearance and, once all have bloomed, cut the stem back to the basal foliage.

The popular daylily (Hemerocallis species) is another plant that looks better deadheaded. Daylilies can have four to eight buds in a cluster at the end of a flower scape (another word that many may not be familiar with, which means flower stalk).

As the name suggests each flower blooms for a day. It would be nice if the old flowers simply dropped off but no, we need to dead-head and individually remove the old flowers. Once they have all bloomed out, you cut out the flower scape.

Annuals need to be deadheaded, too. Remove old geranium, mari-gold and gazania flowers and you will again have a full-blooming plant.

There are other plants that bloom in a flurry with many flowers covering the plant. Threadleaf coreopsis is an example. Sunny yellow flowers cover the plant for three to five weeks starting in June. Once they are bloomed out, simply take your shears and lop off the flowers plus about 3 to 5 inches of growth, depending on cultivar.

This may seem bold, but the plant will respond with a flush of new crisp foliage and usually a second flush of flowering – though not as prolific as the first flush.

Other plants such as Speedwell (Veronica sp.), perennial Salvia or Spiderwort (Tradescantia sp.) often look haggard after they bloom as the heat of summer kicks in. “Silver Mound” Artemesia often breaks open and looks sad. Deadhead these plants after they bloom, but also remove most of the foliage. Cutting back to basal growth or 4 to 5 inches may leave an open spot in your garden temporarily, but these plants will respond and reward you with compact clean growth.

Another advantage to removing old flowers and foliage is prevent-ing seed production. Not only does this take energy from overall plant growth, but with some plants this can be a source of re-seeding.

Purple coneflower (Echinacea sp.) is known to re-seed. Deadhead and you eliminate this issue. But, if you want to attract birds to your garden, let the flowers remain and don’t complain when you have little coneflowers throughout the garden.

Martha Smith, Horticulture Educator University of Illinois Extension

Fall-flowering anemonesJust when you think that the perennial garden is starting to fade in late July, fall-blooming anemones add a splash of color to the garden. These prolific bloomers will continue blooming for up to five weeks. As a group, the genus Anemone consists of 100 species of plants, including spring-, summer- and fall-blooming flowers. The fall-flowering anemones species are the show stoppers of the group.

Fall anemones (also called Japanese anemones) bloom from late July to early October. Anemones are not native to Japan, but some cultivars originated in Japan.

Fall anemones will grow in full sun but prefer a partial shade location, performing the best with morning sun and afternoon shade. Foliage tends to burn in hot, dry, summer conditions. Soil should be fertile, moist, well-drained and high in organic matter. Plants prefer consistently moist soil so mulching is beneficial. Plants can be killed by wet winter conditions. Anemones are hardy in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 7.

Slow to establish, fall anemones will become prolific when grown in a preferred site. Be sure to give the plants room by spacing them 2 to 3 feet apart in the garden. Sometimes the plant will start to spill out of the space. In that case, just dig out the unwanted intruders and share them with friends.

Mounded plants will grow 2 to 5 feet tall. Taller plants may need to be staked. Place plants in the mid-border to background of the garden.

The dark green foliage is attractive from spring to fall. Foliage darkens after a hard frost. It is best to remove the foliage in late fall. Flowers are white, pink, rose or lilac. There are single, semi-double or double cultivars. The slightly cupped flowers are 2 to 3 inches in diameter. Flowers don’t need to be deadheaded to prolong bloom.

Some of the fall-blooming anemone species are Anemone hupe-hensis, Anemone x hybrida, and Anemone tomentosa. All of these species produce similar flowers but have a few differences.

Hybrid anemones, Anemone x hybrida, are hybrids of several species and are well adapted to our gardens. Plants can reach 5 feet in height.

Anemone hupehensis flowers a week or so earlier and is generally shorter (2 to 3 feet) than A. x hybrida. A. hupehensis also has smaller flowers and tolerates drier, sunnier sites. Anemone tomentosa is an earlier-flowering anemone and more tolerant of temperature extremes than A. hybrida. It is called the grapeleaf anemone because its dark green leaves resemble grape leaves. The foliage has a white pubescence on the underside of the leaves.

Consider adding fall anemones to the garden. They add beauty to the perennial garden just as summer bloomers are fading away and just before mums begin to bloom.

Jennifer Fishburn, Horticulture Educator University of Illinois Extension

People who are investigating organic garden-ing often do so because they wish to garden while providing healthier food for their fam-ily and protecting the environment and their communities. The term organic gardening was first used in the United States by J.I. Rodale about 1940.

The foundation of organic gardening is the use of composted organic matter to keep soil healthy and productive. There are many additional principles. Organic pro-duction allows the use of hybrid plants with desirable traits. It generally disallows genetic engineering methods for recombining DNA into genetically modified organisms (GMOs).

What is organic matter?When once living material thoroughly decomposes under healthy conditions, it is called compost. Some examples of compost are decomposed grass clippings and cow manure. Naturally decomposed material like sphagnum peat moss is also organic matter.

How does organic matter help?Organic matter helps the soil act like a sponge to retain moisture in a way that is usable for plant growth. It also improves

drainage, allowing the soil spaces to hold some oxygen for healthy root growth. Various sources of compost contain different kinds and amounts of nutrients, depending on what organic matter decomposed.

As a result, different composts have dif-ferent values as fertilizer. Well-composted organic materials build soil quality while add-ing nutrients that are not easily washed away. Choosing organic fertilizers over synthetic ones can reduce pollution in streams and lakes and other sources of drinking water.

Certified Organic is a legal term.The Organic Foods Production Act of 1990 governs the use of the term certified organic when the sales of products are involved. Its rules usually exclude the use of synthetic pesticides and chemical fertilizers, but allow for pesticides and fertilizers derived from naturally occurring materials, with some exceptions to both rules.

For more information on guidelines, visit http://www.ams.usda.gov.

A history lesson of chemicals.Applying organic matter was the primary way to fertilize crops until the 1930s. At

Organic . . . what does it mean?

To spray or not to spray

Nancy Pollard, Horticulture Educator University of Illinois Extension

Stop and think before grabbing a bottle of pesticide. Integrated Pest Management stresses monitoring your landscape and keeping a keen eye out for problems. Guidelines to combat garden pests with chemicals.– Read the label. Understand what the

product is intended to do and the best timing for application. When during the life span of the pest is it best to apply? Correct timing gives the best control with the least amount of chemical.

– Correctly identify the pest. Caterpillars resemble sawfly larvae, but the products to control them can be different. If you choose a caterpillar control, don’t ques-tion the absence of butterflies later. Caterpillars can be voracious eaters, but most will turn into colorful butterflies.

– Mix the material as directed. Avoid thinking that if one teaspoon is recom-mended, two teaspoons will be better. Effectiveness will not be increased by

doubling the amount of chemical. In fact, higher concentrations can harm plants.

– Follow all personal safety instructions on the label. Protective clothing means a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, eye protec-tion, socks, closed-toe shoes and gloves even if they are not already instructed on the label.

– Use measuring utensils; don’t guess at amounts. Have a set of measuring uten-sils specifically designated for chemicals labeled “chemicals only.” Don’t use utensils that are also used in food preparation.

– Spray on target. Don’t apply a chemical across a 20-foot border when only two to three square feet require attention because it may not be necessary. Read the label to learn if the entire plant should be sprayed. Spray to the point of runoff and stop.

– Maintain application equipment in good working order. Leaks can lead to damage on non-targeted plants. Use equipment that is recommended on the label.

Martha Smith, Horticulture Educator University of Illinois Extension

that time, chemical plants making nitrates for World War I munitions were repurposed to produce synthetic chemical nitrogen and other fertilizers to help farmers feed a grow-ing population.

Erosion of exposed soils and concerns about nutrient-rich runoff from both organic and inorganic fertilizers polluting water sup-plies resulted in shifting interests toward sus-tainable environmental stewardship.

Naturally occurring pesticides like sulfur, mercury, lead, arsenic, and ash were used for centuries. Clearly not everything pro-duced by nature is friendly to life.

Synthetic pesticides production began around World War II. While these new pes-ticides saved lives and reduced crop failure due to pests, it soon became evident that broad-spectrum pesticides killed more than the target pest. Unintended consequences have led the Environmental Protection Agency to evaluate risks and remove many pesticides from the marketplace. Both organically approved and synthetic pesti-cides have some level of toxicity.

Looking to manage gardens in the least toxic, most environmentally friendly way is in the best interests of everyone.

– Spray when the weather is calm. Pesticide drift occurs when spray is carried off target by the wind. Drift can also be minimized by spraying at a lower pressure and using the largest nozzle opening that will still allow you to complete the task.

– Avoid spraying during the heat of the day. Some pesticides will burn plants if applied when temperatures are high. High temperatures can also cause some pesticides to evaporate and decompose quickly. Spray in the morning.

– Avoid spraying before rain or before overhead irrigation, which will reduce the spray’s effectiveness by washing the material off the target plant and possibly leading to groundwater contamination.Keep these spray guidelines in mind

when selecting a pest control for your landscape. Monitor and identify the pest early. Consider your control options. And, remember, your control selection may not be what your neighbor would choose.

The interesting thing about horticulture is that as times change, so do the tastes and preferences for certain plants.

Where once hosta ruled as the foliage showoff, plant breeders have provided us with some fantastic Heuchera (commonly called coral bells). And although catalogues in the ’20s and ’30s listed two types of Heuchera: Heuchera sanguinea and Heuchera brizoides, today’s plant catalogs easily list over 42 different cultivars. These spectacu-lar plants can rival or at least complement hostas in the landscape.

What makes them so good is that there are several species of Heuchera that plant breeders use to develop new cultivars. Three are notable for their ability to hold up well in midwestern gardens and offer some fan-tastic size, color and shape of foliage.

Heuchera Americana can withstand extremes of heat and cold. This is a durable

plant that has great form and some fantastic leaf patterns. Heuchera villosa is the heat-seeking missile of Heuchera. These plants grow in a wide variety of climates and take humidity very well.

Heuchera sanguine are Heucheras that are heat and drought-tolerant beyond belief. They are natives of Mexico and offer a broad flower and foliage color range. Plant breeders often use genetics from these species to breed outstanding garden cultivars of modern Heuchera.

Before you buy any Heuchera, look carefully at your growing conditions and make improvements in the soil if needed.

Heuchera prefer full sun to partial shade, depending on variety. They like a well-drained soil that is rich in organic matter. When planting Heuchera, don’t plant too deep. Plant the crown of the plant slightly higher than the surrounding soil and let the plant set-tle in. Fertilize with a general-purpose garden fertilizer and water as needed to keep soil moist.

Many varieties are available. Here are a few that will add some wow to

your garden.Heuchera “Berry Smoothie” is a

big bold plant with large round leaves that have a color range from purple rose to rose. It prefers partial sun and grows to be an 18-inch by 18-inch mound. This variety is a blend of heat-loving Heuchera villosa and cold-tolerant Heuchera americana.

Heuchera “Fire Chief” is a medium- sized plant growing to about 14 inches tall. The foliage is a glossy red-wine color that turns brown in the winter. It blooms continuously from spring to fall with pink and white flowers on dark red stems. “Fire Chief” grows well in full to partial shade.

Heuchera “Georgia Peach” is bred for heat and humidity. It has huge peach-colored leaves with a silver overlay. The color intensifies to rose purple in the fall. This Heuchera does well in full sun to partial shade.

Heuchera “Electric Lime” has intense chartreuse-colored leaves. Growing to 12 inches high and 28 inches wide, the

foliage on this plant will often sport red veins in the cooler temperatures of fall. White flowers are a bonus. With its strong Heuchera villosa and Heuchera americana parentage, this plant has exceptional heat and humidity tolerance. “Electric Lime” grows best in partial shade.

Heuchera “Southern Comfort,” which grows to 14 inches tall, makes a statement in the garden with is huge velvety cinnamon-peach colored leaves. The foliage changes to a burnished copper in the fall. This variety grows well in the heat and humidity of the Midwest and prefers partial shade for best growth.

Heuchera “Midnight Rose” is a bold, black Heuchera for a sunny location. In the spring, hot pink splashes of color adorn the leaves. Then pink flecks enlarge and brighten before turning to a light cream color as the season progresses.

Move over, hosta, there’s a new plant in town and it’s all about color and wow.

Move over, hosta!

Greg Stack, Horticulture Educator University of Illinois Extension

Heuchera “Electric Lime”

Heuchera “Midnight Rose”

Heuchera “Berry Smoothie”

Heuchera “Georgia Peach”

While some consider purslane, Portulaca oleracea, to be an annoying summer annual weed, others may consider it a nutritious green vegetable.

Purslane, also called hogweed, is a sum-mer annual that reproduces from seeds or stem pieces. If you consider purslane a weed, the number one control recommendation is don’t let it go to seed.

One plant can produce more than 50,000 seeds which can remain viable for more than 30 years in undisturbed soil. The seeds are often brought to the soil surface by tilling.

About three weeks after the seedling emerges, the plant flowers and sets seeds. When hand pulling, make sure to remove the weed from the garden as it can easily re-root itself. Hoeing or tilling this weed results in plant multiplication rather than plant removal. Purslane seeds germinate best with soil temperatures of 90 degrees. Because

seeds don’t germinate well when more than ½ inch deep, mulching may help to control germination.

Many cultures enjoy purslane as a food. It is popular in many Latin American countries and eaten as a salad green in France and other European countries. In Latin America, purs-lane is known as verdolaga. It is believed to be native to India or Iran but can be found throughout the world.

While the weed form of common purslane can be eaten, gardeners can purchase seeds for a cultivated variety. Golden purslane, Portulaca oleracea sativa has succulent 1 ½-inch golden yellow leaves and orange stems on upright plants. The plant is larger than the wild form, growing 12 to 16 inches, and the leaves are crisp and mild in flavor.

Purslane grows well anywhere but is often found in sunny, fertile garden soil. It has suc-culent characteristics and once established is very drought tolerant.

The taste is said to be similar to watercress or spinach. Before adding this plant to your salad, make sure to properly identify it. Also, as with any new food, sample a small portion the first time you eat it. Purslane is best eaten fresh and should be washed just prior to using.

For purslane recipes, visit Prairieland Community Supported Agriculture website at http://www. prairielandcsa.org

/recipes/purslane.html.

How we manage the lawn during the summer greatly influences how well the lawn will look in the fall and even the following spring.

Lawns in Illinois are most likely a Kentucky bluegrass blend. While warm-season grasses thrive in the heat of the summer, our bluegrasses will generally go dormant if left alone, but will return again after the heat of the summer turns to the cooler weather of fall.

Bluegrass lawns can be kept growing if you are committed to watering the lawn all summer. And if you expect to water all summer, then a light summer application of lawn food will be needed to supply the lawn with the needed nutrients enabling the lawn to continue to grow as you hope it will.

When you do water, water deeply to encourage deeper roots. That may mean watering in the morning and in the evening to put enough water on to soak in 4 to 6 inches. If the summer temperatures exceed the mid-80s for several days, the lawn will temporarily shut down and wait for cooler temperatures before resuming growth and no amount of water will change that.

In order for the lawn to remain competi-

tive against weeds all summer long, mow the lawn higher rather than shorter. Taller lawns will shade the soil, keeping weed seeds from germinating and becoming a problem by fall.

Other benefits of a taller lawn mean a deeper, longer root system that is more likely to recover from stress or a disease out-break. Deeper roots also mean that the grass plant is better able to obtain nutrients and the needed moisture from the soil between watering.

To keep your lawn looking its best, be sure you keep the mower blade sharp. Sharpen the blade once a month during the mowing season. If you start with a sharp blade, it does not take that much time to keep it sharp all summer.

If you allow the lawn to go dormant, then you will not need a summer applica-tion of an organic lawn food. Any organic products used will still be available later when growth resumes. Gardeners will need to apply enough water if inadequate rain is received to keep the crown of the grass plant alive and bring the lawn back in the fall when the weather moderates.

The lawn should receive between ¼ and ½ inch of moisture per month. This is not enough to bring the lawn out of dormancy but is enough to keep the crowns alive. When lawns go dormant, the weeds keep growing and you should expect to see a few come fall.

Summer is a time to take an inventory of the lawn and decide what may need to be done as the lawn comes out of dormancy. There may be thin spots that need overseed-ing and low spots that need topdressing so those areas do not collect water, becoming disease prone.

The lawn may benefit from late-summer core aeration, especially if you have soils that are compacted. Cores should be about 3 to 4 inches apart.

The cores themselves can be allowed to dry and filter back into the lawn to act as topdressing by either raking them in or breaking them up with the lawn mower the next time you mow. Core aeration and then topdressing with good organic matter will benefit the grass plant long term, allowing it to perform at its best.

Lawn care for the summer

Jennifer Fishburn, Horticulture Educator University of Illinois Extension

Richard Hentschel, Horticulture Educator University of Illinois Extension

Purslane. Is it a weed or a nutritious green?

Late AugustAdd lawn clippings to your compost and mix them in well. They should be well aerated when they decompose so they will not produce odors.

Break off lower leaves of Brussels sprouts to increase sprouts on the taller stem.

Don’t forget to water your container plants. They need it more now.

Keep petunias and marigolds deadheaded. Check the marigold's for the webs of red spider mites.

Keep your tomatoes well mulched so the fruit will not have blossom end rot. Watch the supports to keep the fruit from touching the soil.

Dig potatoes when their tops die back.

Cut strawflowers, everlastings and echinops (Globe thistle) for dry arrangements.

Scatter bone meal around your peonies and dig it in carefully. They need the phosphorus.

Tomatoes that have been bearing well should have a side dressing of aged manure, enriched compost, or 10-10-10 fertilizer. A handful for each plant, scratched into the soil should be about right.

Water your trees and shrubs deeply. Plants suffering drought stress will have difficulty surviving into spring.

Plant your fall crop of beans, leaf and Romaine lettuce and radishes.

As your lawn grass growth slows, raise your mower height 1/2 inch.

Dust or spray tomatoes and plants in the cabbage family with Bt to suppress tomato and cabbage worms. The Bt will not harm birds that feed on caterpillars.

Master Gardener staff

Early AugustSupport your tomato plants. Their fruit load will be increasing and can easily break the vines.

Deadhead your roses by pruning off the old blossoms just above the first set of five leaves.

Pick your zucchini when they are still small and tender. There will still be enough to make a good harvest.

Conserve water in dry, hot weather by letting your lawn go dor-mant. It will green up again as soon as the rains resume.

If you haven’t done it yet, add mulch to garden beds to conserve moisture. Give extra water to moisture-loving plants like ferns and astilbe.

Plant Autumn Crocus now for blooms in September.

Cut cauliflower heads now, while they are at their best.

Keep weeding. It is important now to keep the weeds from setting seed and making more work for next year.

Dig and divide iris, bleeding heart, Oriental poppy, phlox and peony plants.

Check your lawn for grubs. Cut a square of sod, 1 foot on each side, flip it over and count the grubs. Ten or more and your lawn should be treated.

Water your young trees, shrubs and perennials. And when the garden needs water, the compost pile should be watered, too.

You have admired them enough. Cut off the seed heads of Queen Anne's Lace before they drop and reseed.

Keep your compost bin well watered and aerated.

Gardening Tips for August

University of Illinois * U.S. Department of Agriculture * Local Extension Councils CooperatingUniversity of Illinois Extension provides equal opportunities in programs and employment.

Weedy members of the carrot, parsley and hemlock familiesWild parsnip (Pastinaca sativa) or poison parsnip is not really poisonous; however it can cause sun-induced blistering or burns on the skin. The sap contains chemicals, furocoumarins that cause phytoderma-titis. Basically, if your skin absorbs these chemicals and then is exposed to sunlight, an interaction takes place; the result is red-dened, burned skin and or blisters. I know wild parsnip can be distinguished from its cousins by its yellow flowers. Also, the leaves are pinnately compound, divided once into more than five leaflets with coarsely saw-toothed edges, and they are hairless.

Wild carrot (Daucus carota) or Queen Anne's Lace has leaves that are many times pinnately compound, finely dissected, and hairy. It also has umbrel flowers, but the petals are white, not yellow. You can fill vases with the pretty lace-like flowers and most likely remain blister-free; but resist the urge to plant this in your garden as it spreads rapidly.

Cow parsnip (Heracleum maximum or H. lanatum) is a biennial that occurs mainly north of I-80. It grows in wet places and reportedly causes dermatitis in humans. Cattle can be poisoned by eating the leaves which are enormous, up to 16 inches long and 12 inches wide.

Poison Hemlock (Conium maculatum) is another plant which can be confused with Queen Anne's Lace but which is toxic and should be avoided. It grows at roadsides and waste places in the early spring. It contains neurotoxins which is toxic to humans and livestock. It also has white flowers growing in umbrels.

To protect yourself and your family, a good weed identification book can be helpful. If you are unsure when working with plants, it is wise to wear gloves, long sleeves and long pants. Mowing can keep seeds from forming. Caution is advised when working around unfamiliar weeds..

http://www.extension.uiuc.edu/mg

University of Illinois Woodford County Master GardenersSusan BakerCathy BandekoBruce BrownRoger BurdetteKeith CableKaren Kauffman DicksonLisa GarberPaul GottshallAnn HeislerLisa HillEd HoekstraBetty HolmesEunice KaisnerKenneth KatchKarel KauffmanCheryl King

Mike KirwanShelby KnollMary NiemiJane Flanders Osborn Jack PfaffmannBunny RandallVicki RidleSusan RowenKaren RuckleLinda SimpsonKenneth SmithGretchen StrauchPam TerryKathleen WilkeJoni Wolffe

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS

EXTENSIONMASTER GARDENER

Woodford County Extension117 West CenterP.O. Box 162Eureka, IL 61530

309-467-3789

Master Gardener PresentationsTuesday, September 13 - 6:30 p.m. - Eureka Public LibraryJack Pfaffmann, Woodford County Master Gardener will present on "Vermiculture"

Tuesday, October 11 - 6:30 p.m. - Eureka Public LibraryKaren Ruckle, Woodford County Master Gardener will present on "Hummingbirds"

This year’s Illinois Central College Landscape & Garden Day theme is “Locally Grown” and is set for Saturday, September 10, at the Horticulture Land Lab on the ICC East Peoria Campus.

This year marks the 31st annual event that will feature topics and demonstra-tions of interest to gardeners of all ages and experience levels. The Landscape & Garden Day event has activities planned from 9 a.m. through 3 p.m. and will include seminars, exhibits, discussions, and a plant sale featuring hostas, peren-nials, and shrubs.

Those in attendance can take advan-tage of a plant clinic by the Tri-County Master Gardeners who will be on hand to identify and diagnose. Visitors can enjoy displays by area garden clubs, nurseries, and landscapers. Youngsters in attendance can participate in face painting and other activities at the Children’s Corner, and golf enthusiasts can enjoy the ever-popular “Putt for Plants.”

Lunch will be available for purchase from the ICC Agriculture Club.

The day’s schedule includes:9:15 – 10:15 a.m.“Heirloom Tomatoes” by Keith Crotz, American Botanist Booksellers, Chillicothe – Hear what one of the nation’s authorities on heirlooms has to say about tomatoes.10:30 – 11:30 a.m.“Cooking from the Home Garden” by Chefs Joy Ashwood and Keith Shank, ICC Culinary Arts Institute – See what the ICC chefs create using vegetables from the ICC gardens!1 – 2 p.m.“Designing and Maintaining an Herb Garden” by Beth Haag, Green View Companies, Dunlap – Learn how to grow herbs in-ground or in containers.2:15 – 3 p.m.“Fruit Trees for the Home Garden” by Ella Maxwell, D.A. Hoerr Garden Center, Peoria – Learn selection and care for fruit trees.

Illinois Central College

Landscape & Garden Day

For more information, contact the ICC horticulture program at (309) 694-8872.

Telenet Class ScheduleThere is a $5 suggested donation for each telenet presentation. Black and white hand-outs will be made available only to those who pre-register. You can register by calling the Extension office at 467-3789 at least one day prior to the telenet. Master Gardeners (active and interns) are exempt from the suggested donation.

Invasive Weeds October 4 at 1:00 p.m., Extension office

October 6 at 7:00 p.m., Eureka Library

Sustainable Landscapes October 18 at 1:00 p.m., Extension office

October 20 at 7:00 p.m., Eureka Library

Community Gardens November 1 at 1:00 p.m., Extension office

November 3 at 7:00 p.m., Eureka Library