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Martha's Vineyard Cupboard A few summers ago my wife and Iwere traveling through Martha'sVineyard on vacation when westopped at a small antiques store.On one wall was a simple hangingcupboard with two flat panel doors.Its simplicity and conveniencecaught my eye, and I had never seenone quite like it before. Rather than

buying the piece I took a photo andthanked the storekeeper for her time.Once home I spent some timerethinking the cupboard andredesigned it to add some details,including the beading on the door edges and the back slats. Theoriginal had been made of pine, but Iopted for a more dramatic bird's-eyemaple for the exterior with paintedpoplar inside.

Here's how the cupboard goes

together: sliding dovetails hold thetop to the two sides. The center shelf and bottom rest in dadoes cut in thesides. To strengthen the cabinet, Iuse traditional square pegs to attachthe shelf, bottom, face frame anddoors. And I've got a great trick toget the pegs to fit easily. See thestory "Square pegs, round holes" to

SLIDING DOVETAILS • Cutting the slidingdovetail on the sides using a homemade jig. Cut the female part first, then cut themale part as shown here.

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learn how.

Construction begins by planing thewood to proper thickness, thencutting the top, sides, bottom and

shelf to size. Next, using thediagram, mark the dado locations onthe sides and cut the 1/2"-deepdadoes. Cut 3/4"-wide by 3/8"-thickrabbets on the sides to hold theback. The scroll work pattern can bedownloaded HERE

The next step is to plough thedovetail slot in the top piece, thenform the 1/2"-long sliding dovetail pinon the top end of the sides. Again,find the location for milling the top on

the diagrams. A router table workswell for both steps, running the topflat on the table, and the sides onend against a fence. Now cut a 1/2"roundover on the front and sides of the top.

With all the pieces milled, assemblethe carcase. Dry-fit the pieces andclamp them in place. Unclamp thepiece, add glue and reassemble thecarcase. Clamp it up, then drill 1/4"clearance holes for the pegs through

the sides and into the shelf andbottom and drive the 1-1/2"-longsquare pegs into the 1/4" holes.

The face frame uses mortise-and-tenon joinery for strength. Onceyou've cut the 1"-long tenons and themortises, dry-fit the face frame.Locate and cut the recesses for thehinges on the stiles. Glue and clampup the face frame. When dry, drill for pinning the mortise and tenon withsquare pegs. Then fit the frame to

the front of the carcase, apply glueand peg the frame in place.

The back pieces use a 5/16" x 3/8"mating rabbet (or shiplapped joint) toallow movement in the pieces whilestill maintaining a gapless back. Theback pieces rest in a rabbet cut inthe sides, against the shelves and

PEG YOUR JOINTS • After you've dry-fit

the case, disassemble the case, add theglue in the dadoes and clamp it up. Drillthe clearance holes for the square pegsand knock the pegs home.

DOORS • The doors, beforeassembly and after. Notice the

haunched tenon on the rails to hide thepanel groove.

SQUARE PEGS & ROUND HOLES •

I'm sure you know the adage abouthow you can't fit a square peg into a roundhole. But I'm here to tell you that inwoodworking, you can fit a square peg ina round hole using a pencil sharpener. Istart with 1/4" x 1/4" square pegs and thensharpen them in the pencil sharpener.Then I add a little glue and pound them inplace in the 1/4" clearance holes I'vedrilled in the project. The round part slipsin easily, and then the square part cutsinto the round edges of the hole -- creatingthe illusion of a square hole. Some people

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the hanging strip. The hanging stripis nailed between the sides and flushagainst the top, 3/4" in from the backedge. Once the back pieces are cutto size, run the mating rabbets on

the edges (except for the two outsidepieces). As a nice detail I used amoulding cutter head in my tablesaw to run a single bead on theinside edge of each piece. Test thefit of the back pieces, but leave themunattached at this time to makefinishing easier.

The next step is to make the doors.Like the face frame, they areassembled using mortise-and-tenon

 joinery, with the rails captured

between the stiles. The door tenonsare 13/8" long. Cut a 1/4" x 3/8"deepµgroove in the center, insideedge of each door piece to hold thepanel, which has a 1/4" x 5/16"-longrabbet on all four sides to form atongue. Don't forget to cut a bead onthe outside edge of each stile.

 Assemble the doors using glue in themortises, but keep the glue out of the panel grooves to allow the panelto float in the door frame. Again, the

mortise-and-tenon joints are drilledand square pegs added for strength. After the glue is dry, locate andrecess the hinge locations, then fitthe doors, allowing space for thehinges.

The last construction detail is to addthe intermediate and cove mouldingto the underside of the top to finishoff the upper section of the cabinet.The diagram shows the orientationof the pieces. Miter the moulding to

fit, then nail it in place. To downloada detail drawing of the moulding inPDF format, click HERE

Paint the interior of the cabinet. Theexterior is finished with a homemadefinish of equal parts boiled linseedoil, varnish and turpentine. I followthat up with a coat of wax. After the

add the square pegs after finish sanding,then sand them so they're just a littleproud of the surface. It's a traditionalmethod. Plus, if you sand the pegs flush,you'll sometimes start to reveal some of the round shape of the hole.

SHIPLAPPED BACK • The back isshiplapped and nailed in place.

Because the back is the last thing to go in,I paint the back pieces while finishing the

rest of the cupboard. Then, wheneverything is dry, nail the back in place tothe hanging strip and shelves.

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finish has dried, attach the hardware,doors and add wall hangers for mounting the cabinet.PW

By Glen Huey

Glen Huey builds customfurniture in his shop inMiddletown, Ohio, for Malcolm L.Huey & Sons and is acontributing editor to Popular Woodworking.

Schedule of Materials: Vinevard Cupboard

No. Item Dimensions Material

1 Top 3/4" x 10-1/2" x 35-1/4" Maple

2 Sides 3/4" x 7" x 26-5/8" Maple

2 Shelves 3/4" x 6-1/4" x 30-1/4" Poplar  

2Face framestiles

3/4" x 3" x 22-1/2" Maple

1Frame lower rail

3/4" x 1-7/8" x 26-3/4" Maple

1Frame toprail

3/4" x 3-5/8" x 26-3/4" Maple

1Framecenter stile

3/4" x 2-1/4" x 19" Maple

4 Door rail 3/4" x 2-7/8" x 9" Maple

4 Door stiles 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 17" Maple

2 Door panels 1/2" x 6-7/8" x 11-7/8" Maple

1Hangingstrip

3/4" x 1-3/4" x 29-1/4" Poplar  

7Beadedbackboards

3/4" x 4-13/16" x 22-1/2" Poplar  

4-1/2 Linear feet of 1" x 1" cove moulding

4-1/2 Linear feet of 3/4" x 1-5/8" intermediate moulding

Supplies for this project can be ordered from From HortonBrass, 800-754-9127

2 - Door catches #SL3, $11.00 each2 - Pair - hinges #DH-2-125 $4.50 a pair 

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