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Hair and Make-up XXXXXXXXXXXXXXModels XXXXXXXXXXXXpHotograpHer’s assistant XXXXXXXXXXXXX

special tHanks to XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

stockists, page 130

56 ARISE: FASHION

buff around the edgeslooking good, guys. But How do tHey do it? Men of style reveal tHeir grooMing secretspHotograpHy EMMA PICQ words hAnnAh Pool

“I’ve had an afro on and off for maybe six years. Sam cuts my hair for me; he’s good at it but he doesn’t trust me with his hair. He also braids it into cornrows, sometimes adding thread, like the Ethiopian style. My twin sister chooses my hair products. I don’t use much, maybe some natural shea butter.

“When I turned vegetarian and stopped drinking I decided to live the whole natural way of life and the beard came naturally. My mum hates it, she says I look like Osama bin Laden. It’s a little bit too much for my parents so if I’m going home I tidy it up.”

Shaka Maidoh c o - f o u n d e r A r t c o m e s f i r s t

SaM LaMbert c o - f o u n d e r A r t c o m e s f i r s t

Ferdi SibbeLm o d e l

“I do as little as possible grooming-wise. I’m a model so I get things like facials, pedicures and haircuts on shoots. I stay away from doing things like that in my own time – or I use my girlfriend’s products. I should have pedicures more often – they make my feet look good – but I don’t like people touching my feet, that’s the problem.

“I’ve had a beard for 10 years but sometimes I have to shave it for work. I’m 33 but without a beard I look like I’m 21. It looks and feels really weird when I wake up; like I’ve gone back in time. I use a Philips small trimmer first,

because it’s more practical and you can be more accurate, then I wet shave in the shower. I don’t use any product – just a little bit of cream to hydrate it, but that’s more for the skin than the beard.

“I have this in-between length hair – I don’t really have a haircut – so I just slick my hair back with Bumble And Bumble styling wax or if there’s no product at hand I wear a hat or a beanie. I like hair that you don’t have to worry about and I don’t want to waste time in the morning.”

models1.co.uk

Jacket, £525, KomaKinoturtleneck, £157, shirt, £476, and trousers, £460, all dior Homme

SHaKa:suit, £945, and shirt, £185, botH Spencer Hart hat, poa, Madcap by art comeS FirStshoes and scarf, SHaKa’S own

Sam:Jacket, Sam’S own Waistcoat, £350, shirt, £170, and trousers, £400, all Spencer Hartshoes, poa, biarritzhat, poa, superduper by art comeS FirSt

“Shaka and I didn’t make a joint decision to have beards, it just came about because it’s a natural way of being. I like to keep it natural; I don’t use colognes and I use nothing on my hair; water is enough. I don’t think your body or hair needs as much product as people think. As soon as I come out of the shower I moisturise with Dove Aloe Vera, and that’s it.

“I cut my own hair, just a minor trim. When I had long hair I needed a way to get ready as quickly as I could so I taught myself how to braid; I grew up watching my sisters do it.”

artcomesfirst.com

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Jean-PauL PauLa f A s h i o n c o n s u lt A n t , W A d m A g A z i n e

“I hate shaving. My father tried to teach me how to shave a long time ago. I did it once and ended up with pimples all over my face, so I’ve just trimmed ever since. I have little or no hair growth, so I only do it once or twice a month.

“My hair’s a different story. It changes with my mood. For a while I put body paint on my hair and wore wigs and weaves. But living in Paris people aren’t as open minded as you might think and it got really exhausting having people looking at me weirdly all the time. So I shaved my hair really short. Now it’s longer on top and the sides are shaved.

“I’m from Curaçao (I moved to Holland when I was a year old), where it’s part of the culture to really take care of your hair – especially for the women. I go to an amazing Arab hairdresser on the street where I work. It’s €7 for a cut; I show him a picture and he does exactly what I want in 10 minutes. Amazing.

“I have very dry skin and find using Vichy Aqualia moisturiser really helps. I also carry Caudalie lip balm with me everywhere. At the moment I’m wearing Armani Diamonds. It was a Christmas present and I use it almost every day.”

wadmag.com

“From a really young age my mum taught me to take time with my appearance. I try to get a manicure and pedicure and pamper myself when I can. I can take 60 or 70 flights in a year, so it’s good to have massages.

“Paul Merritt [at Jed Root] cuts my hair. I have hard-to-manage hair and he recommended this genius product called Sebastian Potion 9, it’s the best hair product I’ve ever had. My hair is actually really curly and I don’t have time to style it every day, which is one of the reasons I ended up with a long hairstyle; it means I can just tie it back. A lot of

men’s magazines tell guys that having a ponytail is one of the worst style moves you make but it works for me. It’s easy, clean and professional.

“I also go to Joe Mills’ salon in Soho, Joe And Co, for a cut and proper shave. I’d recommend it to anybody. Shaving is the bane of my existence. I’m not into the beard thing but don’t mind having a bit of stubble. I’m not usually a cologne person either but working in this business I’m always being given stuff so I find myself using them. I really like Green Irish Tweed by CREED.”

businessoffashion.com

iMran aMed f o u n d e r & e d i t o r , t h e B u s i n e s s o f f A s h i o n

Jacket, £3,115, and suit, £3,150, botH lanvinturtleneck, £425, pringle oF Scotlandshoes, £495, marK mcnairy necklace, £275, craved & Sour

Jacket, £908, alibelluS+ sunglasses, £161, traction

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Marc hares h o e d e s i g n e r

“I’ve had my dreadlocks since I was 17, I couldn’t imagine not having them anymore. I grew up in a Rastafarian household but I don’t particularly have them for religious reasons; I wouldn’t call myself a Rasta. I wouldn’t call them fashion dreads either, that sounds awful.

“There are a lot of myths about dreadlocks. People ask me the same three things about my locks: Do I wash them? How do I wash them? And how do I keep them in? I put hair oil or coconut oil on them every now and then and wash my hair every ten days to two weeks – I let them dry naturally. It’s a Sunday job.

“Whenever I go to France I visit Santa Maria Novella pharmacy and stock up. It’s just half an hour away from my factory and it’s lovely going through a massive cathedral to get cosmetics. I once got a bottle of Helmut Lang Cuiron there but I don’t think they make it anymore.

“I’m naturally low maintenance – there’s not much of a skincare regime at all. I use Korres shower gel – it has this really nice sheen – and in the summer, when I’ve got a tan, I use Burt’s Bees moisturiser – I try to use natural products.”

mrhare.com

david heLLqviSt o n l i n e e d i t o r , P o r t m A g A z i n e

“I grew up in Sweden and there was a time when I wanted to look like I was in Iron Maiden, with long, curly blond hair. But other than that I’ve never done anything drastic with my hair. It’s never been dyed or coloured. I’ve had a bit of a hat thing this year though.

“I started growing my moustache about three years ago. I can’t grow a full beard. I wish I could. It’s a male thing. But I discovered that I could have a moustache. People thought it was a gimmick but now it’s part of who I am. If I were to shave it off it would really change the way I look in the mirror. I’m 42 but I look

very young without it. There are times in your life when you want to look younger or older, and I don’t think I benefit from looking any younger.

“My girlfriend is a make-up artist so she keeps giving me products. If I need to use some sort of facial cream or mask I’ll probably just borrow it but that’s not something I would do on a daily basis. The only thing I’ve been using for years, that I take with me wherever I go, is Kyoto Eau de Toilette by Comme des Garçons. I discovered it when I was working at Dover Street Market.”

port-magazine.com

Jacket, poa, Kenzoturtleneck, £425, pringle oF Scotland

coat, £1, 595, and poloneck, £450, botH pringle oF ScotlandJeans, marc’S ownshoes, £680, mr Hare

ARISE: FASHION 063

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“When I was 19 my father bought me a beautiful old shaving kit, with a badger brush and straight blade. He’s a complete romantic. He keeps promising that soon I’ll have a beard to shave but I’m almost 32 and I’m still not there yet. I haven’t shaved to the skin in a long time. I have a patchy beard so I use a beard trimmer and that’s enough. I don’t like the feeling of freshly shaved skin – it’s strange and greasy.

“I grew up in South Africa and then LA, so my skin is used to warm weather. When I moved to Paris it started freaking out so I found a good moisturiser. In the shower I use Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant, then moisturise with Dermalogica Active Moist and I’m ready to go.

“Hair wise I’m super-low maintenance. I like Kiehl’s shampoo, but I don’t really use conditioner or styling products. I use an underarm roll-on by Issey Miyake. Anything too musky I don’t like, and anything too sweet makes me nauseous. I like soft scents that disappear quickly.”

mishataylorphotography.blogspot.co.ukJacket, £638, SHirt, £323, shorts, £452, and boots, £533, all KriS van aSScHe

GROOM OF My OWN: BODy ESSENTIALS, AS CHOSEN By ARISE’S SHARP-DRESSED MEN

EIght & BoB£125/100ml

KIEhl’s AMIno ACId shAMPoo £8.50/250ml

d r hArrIs shAvIng Bowl & Brush gIft sEt In ArlIngton

£49. 95

vIChy AQuAlIA thErMAl CrEAM£15/50ml

(MAlIn+goEtz) ruM BAr soAP£8.50/85g

CAudAlIE lIP CondItIonEr£5.50/4g

l’oCCItAnE shEA ButtEr orgAnIC CErtIfIEd

£26/150ml

CrEEd grEEn IrIsh twEEd £143/75ml

“My sister was a model, so when I was growing up she was travelling all over the world. I was always reading her magazines, getting obsessed with grooming. So I knew about the rules of shaving – going against the grain, letting your skin breathe, using a hot flannel – all before I started shaving. From the age of about 21 I was working with beauty brands and getting to understand the technology behind looking after skin. Then I oversaw the Harvey Nichols beauty department so I had to know what was going on. I have quite sensitive skin so I try not to aggravate it by shaving every

day – and use (MALIN+GOETZ) Rum Bar soap. At the moment I am wearing a scent called

Eight & Bob. There’s a beautiful story around it that involves the Kennedy brothers and the fragrance being secretly shipped to them inside books from wartime Paris. It’s recently been rediscovered –and is still sold in a book.

I grew up in yorkshire and came to London in my 30s. People don’t bat an eyelid at what you wear in the south, but in the north we take getting dressed very seriously. If you’re not prepared to dress up you should just stay in.”

theshopatbluebird.com

PauL baPtiSteB u y i n g A n d o P e r A t i o n s d i r e c t o r , t h e s h o P A t B l u e B i r d

Jacket, £575, paul SmitHshirt, £55, comme deS garçonSJeans, £175, levi’S

See StocKiStS page 132