In-plant Training Report

Presentation

Presented By

o G.Ambikavathi [ 05F004 ]

o S.Nithya [05F036 ]

o N.P.Pradeepa [05F038 ]

o Raj Priya.M [05F041 ]

o C.Swasthika [05F055]

Introduction

Stallion Garments – An ISO 9001:2000 certified company

Chairman and Managing director : K.A.S Thierumurthi and AM.

Karthikkeyan

Manufacturer and exporter of Knit and Woven readymade garments in all

kinds of fabrics

Sister Concerns: M/s. Statesman Fashions, M/s. K.A.T Garments, M/s.

Stallion Fashions

Branches: Production Unit and Dyeing Unit, Karumpalayam

Infrastructure: Entirely in-house and fully integrated facilities

Market Distribution

                                                                                                               

                                       

Market Distribution

Administration

Styles : Polo's, Swim Suits, Boxer Shorts,, Hooded Items, Outer jackets, Rugby

Shirts, Blended items, Briefs, Night wears, Pajamas.

Special finishes : Mercerization, Stone Wash, Enzyme wash, UV resistance

finish, flame retardant finish

Monthly Production capacity: 1, 00,000 pcs. In basic t-shirts.

Staff Strength: 320

Employees: 1200

Machinery : 740

Minimum Qty/Lead Time: 1000pcs/Color and 5000pcs/Order

60 -90 days for any order

Company Plan & Layout

1. Power room

2. Two wheelers

parking

3. Lab room

4. Accessories room

5. Gate

6. Security room

7. Toilet block

8. Compressor room

1 2

34 5

7 86

Factory Building

Flo

or T

oile

t b

lock

Boiler Shed

AC Sheet Roof BuildingFeed Room

AC Sheet Roof BuildingConference Hall

AC Sheet Roof BuildingFinishing Section

AC Sheet Roof BuildingDining Hall & Rest

Room

1 2

34 5

7 86

Factory Building

Flo

or T

oile

t b

lock

Boiler Shed

AC Sheet Roof BuildingFeed Room

AC Sheet Roof BuildingConference Hall

AC Sheet Roof BuildingFinishing Section

AC Sheet Roof BuildingDining Hall & Rest

Room

Machinery Details

Spreading Machine: Automatic

Company : Mehala Assyst Bullmer Compact D600

Cutting Machine: Band Knife Automatic

Company : Gurber

Spreading and cutting done in KVR Nagar , branch in Karumpalayam

Sewing Machines : Juki, Brother, Siruba, Pegasus

Packing Machine: Wedge pack

Needle detector

Fusing machine

Apparel Production System

Laying/ Cutting[KVR Nagar]

Tag for Identification

Feed Section[Assortment of bundled pieces

Allotment of work to each floor (sewing)

Checking

Packing

Final Inspection

Bill Of Lading[Cost on Freight]

Laying/ Cutting[KVR Nagar]

Tag for Identification

Feed Section[Assortment of bundled pieces

Allotment of work to each floor (sewing)

Checking

Packing

Final Inspection

Bill Of Lading[Cost on Freight]

Fabric Department

Fabric Analysis:

Fabric: All Feeder Lycra – warp knitting m/c

Fiber Content: 95% Cotton 5% Lycra

Yarn Count: 40s Combed – 20 Denier Lycra

Type of fabric produced: Dyed fabric

Width of fabric: 66” Open Width

Fabric Inspection System:

4 point system

Fabric quality - number of defect points per 100yd.sq meter of fabric.

length/width of defects – point values – 40 points – first quality

Recommended Tests for fabric:

Shrinkage

Color Fastness

Wet Rub

Dry Rub

Spirality

Forms issued to cutting department:

Quality check report produced by Quality Inspector

Fabric department dispatches the required amount of fabric to the cutting

department

Online Inspection System :

Grey stage [dyeing and production] and compacting stage

Fabric Defects:

Holes [ knitting ]

Oil Marks [knitting ]

Stains [ dirt or dust forming a temporary defect ]

Color fly [ Mixing of a color thread during spinning ]

Neps [ rare occurrence; entanglement of fibers]

Report : Quality check report - Quality Inspector

Fabric Sourcing and Fabric center : External – Sister concern of Stallion

Pattern making and Sampling Department

N.P.Pradeepa [05F038]

Software: Investronica Systems, LECTRA Company

Medium size pattern - manually – positioned on digitizer

Drafted using optical mouse

Seam allowances given while preparing manual pattern or after pattern

making. Minimum of 1cm

Grading system : Computerized 2-dimensional and 3-dimensional

systems it in 2-D done in 2D effect obtained in 3D

The measurements are entered accurately and the graded pattern is

obtained.

Size Ranges : S, M, L, X, XL [ buyer’s requirement ]

Sample Types :

Style Sample - acceptance from the buyer – style & shape

Photo sample - appearance

Production Sample - exact one – sent for direct production

Design Department :

Export orders - buyer specifies his requirements [style, design, method and

procedure]

Accordingly the company selects the type of machineries and arranges them as

required

Cutting Department

Cutting Department Layout

Spreader m/c

Spreader m/c

Spreader m/c

Cutting Table

Fabric Stock

Fabric Stock

Fabric Stock

Fabric Stock

Fabric Stock

Waste

S

tock

Num

be

ring

Tab

le

cut P

iece

s –B

und

ling a

rea

Lift room

1 2 3 4 5 6

Fabric Roll Stock

Fabric Department

Fabric ManagerERP RoomCAD RoomCutting ManagerFabric AccountantStores

Spreader m/c

Spreader m/c

Spreader m/c

Cutting Table

Fabric Stock

Fabric Stock

Fabric Stock

Fabric Stock

Fabric Stock

Waste

S

tock

Num

be

ring

Tab

le

cut P

iece

s –B

und

ling a

rea

Lift room

1 2 3 4 5 6

Fabric Roll Stock

Fabric Department

Fabric ManagerERP RoomCAD RoomCutting ManagerFabric AccountantStores

Cut order planning details :

Plan done prior to cutting

Specification - Order number ,Garment name

“Cutting Received “ - Colors for various sizes and their quantity

I/P & O/P for cutting is mentioned

Pieces ready for packing is also mentioned

Marker Planning done in using the computerized systems as per the garment patterns

Done in a most economic way

Efficiency : up to 90% can be achieved

Method Of Spreading:

Face to Face

Automatic spreading machine

Name: MEHALA ASSYST BULLMER COMPACT D600

Fabric rolls are placed on the traveler

Motor driven

Driver seat with brake controls to spread the lay

Lay table - perforated holes - purpose to maintain tension and slide the

lay to the cutting table easily without any distortion.

Lay height :max 5”

Width : 3½ meter

Method Of Cutting:

Automatic cutting machine – GURBER cutting machine

Straight knife used

Band knife is being used for edging purposes

Assortment and Bundling :Assortment and Bundling :

Single color single size pieces bundled Single color single size pieces bundled

Ticketed and sent – Sewing Department Ticketed and sent – Sewing Department

Transport : trolleysTransport : trolleys

Production Capacity:Production Capacity:

Cutting machine’s capacity : 5 lakhCutting machine’s capacity : 5 lakh

Company’s Capacity :production of 1 lakh piecesCompany’s Capacity :production of 1 lakh pieces

Sewing Department

Raj Priya.M [05F041]

Lift Porch

Se

win

g

Se

ctio

n

Checking

Sto

ck

Se

win

g

Se

ctio

n

Se

win

g S

ect

ion

Checking

Se

win

g S

ect

ion

Needle Detector

Pa

cking

S

ectio

n

Pa

cking

Ta

ble

s

Iron

Ta

ble

s[8

in n

um

be

r]S

tain

Re

mo

ver

Fire Exit Fire Exit

Exit Exit

Exit Exit

Machinery Details

Over lock Machine

3 Thread Over lock - 4 Thread Over lock - 5 Thread Over lock

Flat lock Machine

2 Types of Bed

Circular Bed [ neck , sleeve ]

Flat Bed [ general purpose ]

Single Needle Flat lock

Double Needle Flat lock

2 Thread Over lock - 3 Thread Over lock - 5 Thread Over lock

Singer Machine

Single Needle

Double Needle

Manufacturers: Germany make

Procedure for Sewing varies acc. to order

Machines – equipped with wheels for order arrangements and

rearrangements

Special attachments deployed will be dealt later

Process Analysis

Style :SLIM FIT T-SHIRT

Garment Segments

Front Panel – 1

Back Panel – 1

Sleeve – 2

Neck Rib [same as fabric]

Cutting Procedure:

The front and back panels are being cut as per the measurements given in

the spec sheet. Sleeves are also being cut.

Sequence, Machine & Operation time

Shoulder Attachment

4 Thread Over lock

0.00.04.10

↓

Sleeve Attachment

5 Thread Over lock

0.00.15.80

↓

Label Attachment [neck]

Singer Single Needle

0.00.01.25

↓

Neck Tacking [self fabric - binding]

3 Thread Flat lock

0.00.22.05

↓

Sleeve Hem

3 Thread Flat lock

0.00.03.54

↓

Sides Attachment

Attachment of Wash Care Label along

4 Thread Over lock

0.00.09.88

↓

Bottom Hem Finishing

3 Thread Flat Lock

0.00.16.10

Type of Inspections

Sewing thread inspection

Ply of the yarn is checked – usually 3 ply used in the industry – 2 ply in rare cases

Operation Inspection

By Quality Assurance department – placement of machines and online inspection

Protection Ensure

Needle guard

Safeguard labors from hazardous situations

Glass protecting in front of needle

Pulley Guard

Protective casing around the pulley

Ensures safety - Made of steel covering the belt

Measurement Inspection

Random inspection on any garment is done

Final Inspection

12 seats in each line – 3 floors

Checking table at end – checking

Trims are being done

100% inspection of all garments

Material Handling:

Feeding section : Trolley

Manufacturing Unit: Utility Lifts – 3 floors serves the purpose only

Sewing Section : Manual movement using Line Tables

Trolley Capacity: 2000 pieces

Service Table:

Sintex bins [bring cut pieces - cutting dept] - Feeding table [boxes as input for sewing]

No hanger system being followed

Accessories

Sewing Thread

Fiber Content - 3 ply polyester 150 Denier

Size - 5000mts cone

Special Finish - White Oil Finish - lubrication

Closures

Button:

Color - Dye to match [DTM] 2 hole

1 Gross = 144 buttons M/C = Rs.10 S/C : Rs.17

Zippers:

Types: Zipper Type ;Spring Type

Method of Attachment: Visible and Invisible method

Size: As per the requirement of the customer/buyer

Make : China make & Hong Kong supply

M/C : Per inch = 40 paisa S/C = 60 paisa

Interlining Material:

Specifications : M/C :Per yard = Rs.10 S/C = Rs.12 Woven [sticky] Non-woven [non-sticky] Micro Dot Foam [doesn’t appear thick but has sufficient stiffness

100% polyester]

Labels : Main Label Size Label Wash Care Label Tab Label [pocket side] Flag Label [sides of the garment]

Other Accessories used in Industry:

Laces ,Satin ribbons ,Satin elastic, Ready-made piping, Badge [woven], leather badges, All over embroidery/chest printing, etc.

Standard Testing For Fabric & Garments

Machinery

1. Electronic crock-o-meter

Test :colorfastness to crocking

Size of the Test Specimen: 20cm*5cm

Procedure - Rating:

Color staining of wet and dry rub assessed - grey scale ISO 105-A03 standards or using Spectrophotometer

2. Perspirometer

Size of the specimen = 10cm*4cm

Force of the specimen = 5kgs

Size of acrylic plates = 12.5cm*6.5cm

No. of acrylic plates = 16

3. Washing fastness Tester - Procedure

4. Hot air oven [ Drying ]

Temperature: 105ºC

Time: 30 minutes

5. pH Test

Company: ELICO.LTD

pH: 10

specimen - 10gms – cut into tiny pieces – boil in 250ml of water – cover using watch glass –continue boiling for 10 min – room temp cool – measure with electronic pH meter directly

6. Shrinkage Test

Temperature: 20±1ºC

RH: 65±2

7. Spirality Test

Specimen circumference: 11.2cm – cut using round plate

Color matching Cabinet:

Machine: Verivide

Make: Switzerland

4 light option buttons: [ shop’s light settings ] Color Matching Software: 3.0 Macbeth.

-D65 [ Europe ]

-TL 84 [ US ]

-Filament [ US ,Cool white fluorescent]

-UV Light

Pantone Color Samples: Shades - textile cotton or textile paper solution Colors – Record form Accepted internationally

Testing Centre :

Internally - Quality inspector – reports check

Quality Control

S.Nithya [05F036]

Inspection

Inspection is done at three main stages:§ Raw Material Inspection§ In-Process Inspection§ Final Inspection

Raw Material Inspection

Yarn Stage - Before Fabric Inspection - Fabric Inspection – Size-Set Approval

Accessory Inspection Sewing threads Zippers Buttons InterliningOnline Inspection

During production - By Quality inspector

Carried out various stages: Spreading ,Cutting ,Sewing, Pressing, Finishing

Acceptable Quality Level:

Statistical Sampling technique

These are 4 main levels followed in Apparel Industry. The levels are;

1.0 1.5 2.5 4.0

Suppose the buyers ask for AQL 2.5, then the industry will follow the

previous AQL 1.5. To be precautious in not exceeding the rejection

number.

Final Inspection:

Final Inspection end of production before shipment

Atleast 80% of the consignment finally packed

Performed according to International Standards

Yarn Test Report

Lab Dip Approval [2.5cm * 2.5cm]

Fabric GSM Approval

Size set approval and Accessories approval

Packing Material approval [Carton, Garment Fold – Tissue, Cardboard, photo]

Carton Sticker [printed]

Defective pieces accepted if within AQL level . Grading given as;

Excellent Very Good

Good Poor [lot is rejected]

Cost and Freight

[Company responsible for goods – gate ]

In-house Stuffing

[Central Excise takes in charge – 4 container lorries – Rs.400 a lorry

Bill Of Lading

[After a day of dispatch]

Company waits for a high rate of foreign currency then does the in-house

stuffing and call for the Central Excise.

That day’s market value is entered as the final rate in foreign currency.

A small profit to the organization!!!!!!!!!

Finishing Department

Sequence till Dispatch after garment construction

Garment Construction

Final Checking

Tagging / Stickering

Poly Bag Packing

Inspection

Checking

Ironing

Carton Box Packing

Pressing Machinery:

Flat Bed

Purpose: Ironing any part of garment

Make: Ram sons and Mehala ,Made in India

Features: Air sucking in table – steam iron – pedal for supplying steam Water level – 400ml No. of machines : 8 Iron wt : 400gms [small ]

Folding Specifications:

Tissue Paper Packing

Inner Board Packing

Hanger Packing [ 20hangers in 1 master bag]

Photo card packing

Packing Procedure:

Individual Poly Bag Packing

Master Pack [ 10 in 1 ]

2 pack , 3 pack, 5 pack in carton box

Packing Materials:

Poly Bag [ with ceil king ] - Tissue paper - Inner board - Reference Tag -Sticker - Cello-tape

- Pouch poly bag with button

Carton Details:

Buyer’s Address

Goods Description

Net wt. gross wt

Carton Number

On the other side - Carton measurements: l*b*h

Ratio of Packing:

Assorted & Unassorted type

25, 50, 75,100 are the numbers kept standard for the quantity

Special Machines in various Departments:

Air Flat Lock [auto trimmer – dust passage ]

Checking Machine [hole detection – tube light ]

Trimming Machine [blade – done before checking & after garment make ]

Wedge Pack machine [ handy ]

Needle Detector machine Bar tack machine Collar Attachment Label Fusing Machine Carton Packing machine [ strapping the carton ] Easy loading of containers onto vans Elastic Attachment Machine

Production Planning & Control

G.Ambikavathi [05F004]

♪ Timings : 8.30 AM

10.00AM - Break 15minutes interval 12.45PM - Lunch Break

1.30 PM – Work commences 3.00PM – Tea break

5.45PM – Shift

Weekly twice Over Time [OT] allowed

If a worker works for 2 hours during OT hours, them he will be prone to

get double salary.♪ Style picture & spec sheet issued to PM Dept♪ Lab dips & print or embroidery developed for buyer’s approval♪ Order details to CAD issued - marker & consumption♪ To manufacturer to book yarn or trims based on requirements.♪ To Sewing department for production planning & sequence♪ Pilot run inspection check - test results estimated♪ Quality checked pre-mid & final stages periodically♪ Export documents prepared for endorsement & shipping.

Schedule:

Line Balancing:

- to set the flow through each operation to be as similar as possible

- check from time to time how things are going

- even out the flow again

- each line 2 floaters

Plant Loading:

workers assigned work equally

the quality controller or Line supervisor is in-charge

If the worker is not able to complete his job, then he has to work extra hours. This is

not the incentive since it is his fault

Product Acceptance Sampling:

Pattern Approval

Size Set Sample

Initial Production Check

Buyer Author representatives

Record Maintenance

Attendance record [ Finger thumbing ]

Materials Inward/Outward

Feeding Input/Output Record

Stitching Input/Output Record

Packing Input/Output Record

Container Delivery note

Salary record [ each worker department wise – under the control of HRD]

Provident fund record

Machinery maintenance record

Stores Record

Vehicle Maintenance record [ 2 wheelers and 4 wheelers]

Asset record

General Service record [water, electricity, etc.]

Visitor’s Record

Software’s in Production Planning and Control

Cutting Department: AutoCAD Lectra, Gurber

Sewing Department to Container/Finishing Department:

ERP Sap Software

The details cannot be traced out

One cannot enter anything of one’s own wish.

Administrative Aspects

Procedure for receiving the order:

price

negotiation

finalization

sample satisfaction

factory inspection

acceptance

order placement

company visit by buyer production

Dispatching Formalities Procedure

Export Officer

Order sheet, LC requisition, LC Receipt Request from finishing department for Endorsement Endorsement preparation (invoice, shipping bill filed with AEPC)

Cargo movement msg (ready for shipment) Customs documentation preparation

Filing with customs Preparation of GSP approved by the textile committee

Original document to buyer (air/sea) Bank Attested invoice

Proof of shipment given to AEPC

Merchandiser

Objectives: Co-ordinate with buyers Time and action plan Maintain quality

Roles played by the merchandiser: Garment costing Prepares all types of samples for approval Material requirement planning and sales confirmation Marketing Negotiation with buyers

Few Garment StylesFew Garment Styles

SEWING AND CUTTING

CHECKING AND PACKING

QUALITY CHECK AND STANDARD TESTING

Conclusion

‘Change’ is the only constant factor in the fashion industry.

With a deeper understanding of this fact, Stallion is receptive

to change and to adequately satisfy the requirements of its

fashion conscious customers.

Each Garments that leaves the factory is thoroughly checked

at every stage.

The in plant training has imposed more knowledge about the

procedures in the apparel unit.

Thank You