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Antioxidants in
Personal Care
Antioxidants are key ingredients to retain organoleptics
Required to prevent...
Off-odour
(Dis)colouration
Degradation of ingredients
Generation of unhealthy compounds
In-can protection of the formulation
Desired
Picked up on ingredient listing,
consumer awareness of importants of antioxidants.
Accelerated oxidative
stability testing
Rancimat
Air purged through hot oil.
Oxipres
Sample exposed to oxygen.
Much broader variety of matrices
(powders, dog kibbles, bakery wares,
emulsions).
In-house.
Accelerated testing
Protection factor =
time-until-rancid w/ antioxidants /
time-until-rancid w/o antioxidants
Think about protection!
Especially in personal care!
Highly unsaturated vegetable oils
Odour profile is critical
High-value products
Storage is long, not cooled, does not
help
Not all antioxidants are
the same
Freedom of choice
Efficacy (which vegetable oil,
formulations)
Formulation requirements (haziness)
Preference (no synthetics, no palm)
Claim (antioxidant)
More than 'in-can' protection?
Antrancine BHT,
Antrancine BHA
Reasonably effective
Highly soluble in oils
Antrancine BHT,
Antrancine BHA
In other systems, BHA can be 1.5 times
better as BHT.
Protection with
tocopherols
Using the power from nature:
high gamma- + delta-tocopherol
High antioxidant efficacy
Mixed better than alpha
Alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E) not the best
choice for 'in-can' protection!
Please note dl-alpha-tocopherol acetate
does not have 'in-can' antioxidant
activity!
Tocomix L70-IP
advantages
Good image!
High gamma+delta-tocopherol.
Health benefits of e.g. gamma-
tocopherol.
Avoids 'pro-oxidative' effect of alpha-
tocopherol.
Non-GMO (Identity Preserved).
Especially very high efficacy in oils with
low levels of tocopherol.
Efficacy depends on type
of system
Example: shea butter, high efficacy.
Efficacy depends on
system
Some oils (e.g. sunflower oil) are not
easily protected by tocopherol alone
...but when oil is 'diluted' (in formulation),
efficacy is high!
For instance, in a skin oil (mixture of
neutral oils and vegetable oils),
protection factor 11!
Phytrox LT10-IP
A highly effective synergistic blend!
High stability
Easy to dose
No high temperature required
Phytrox LT10-IP
High efficacy, even in difficult systems.
Consistently higher than tocopherols
alone.
Clarity to be checked in oil solution.
Emulsions
Phytrox LT10-IP is a standard choice in
emulsions!
Phytrox LTR15-IP
Based on the Phytrox LT10-IP, even higher efficacy with rosemary extract in addition.
Even 10 to 40 % improvement over LT10-IP.
Best vegetable based antioxidant system.
Rosemary extract
Nature has got also something else
up her sleeve
The power of rosemary
High efficacy when active levels are
compared with BHT.
Phytrox Rosemary L4-
CA deod
Rosemary extract in sunflower oil.
Guaranteed level of carnosic acid
and carnosol.
Low odour.
High efficacy, also in difficult
systems, easily a better efficacy than
toco's in difficult oils.
Easy to dissolve, clarity in oils.
Low use levels: usual level 1000 ppm
Efficacy
Efficacy depends on system.
650 ppm Phytrox Rosemary L4-CA
deod:
(= 30 ppm carnosic acid + carnosol)
approx. 25 % improvement in
sunflower oil,
approx. 350 % in systems low in
tocopherol.
Palm-free options
Using the combined power of rosemary
and tocopherol.
1100 ppm Phytrox Rosemary L4-CA
deod
425 ppm Tocomix L70-IP
No synthetics, maximised clarity!
Choice depends on oil and system
Oils
Tocomix L70-IP very effective in some oils
Phytrox LT10-IP, Phytrox Rosemary L4-CA deod
L70-IP and L4-CA deod strong combo!
Oil blends
Tocomix L70-IP,
Phytrox LT10-IP, Phytrox Rosemary L4-CA deod
Emulsions
As above, but Phytrox LT10-IP is logical choice!
Beyond in-can protection: skin benefits!
DNA protection
Carnosic acid protects plasmid DNA from UV-A generated OH radicals.
MMP expression
Carnosic acid inhibits UV-induced MMP-1, -3 and -9 expression in human fibroblasts cell
line.
Product overview
Antrancine BHA, Antrancine BHT Synthetic options
Tocomix L50-IP / L70-IP / L90-IP Tocopherols in sunflower oil
Phytrox Rosemary L4-CA deod. Rosemary extract in sunflower oil
Phytrox LTRE-IP Tocopherols and rosemary in sunflower oil
Phytrox LT10-IP Tocopherols and ascorbyl palmitate in active carrier
Phytrox LTR15-IP As LT10-IP, plus rosemary
Key messages
Use of antioxidants important to retain freshness.
Best choice of antioxidant depends on system, we can help.
Extensive portfolio offers large degree of freedom.
Accelerated testing helpful tool.
Antioxidants can be part of anti-ageing strategy.
Questions and discussion.