Antioxidants in

Personal Care

Antioxidants are key ingredients to retain organoleptics

Required to prevent...

Off-odour

(Dis)colouration

Degradation of ingredients

Generation of unhealthy compounds

In-can protection of the formulation

Desired

Picked up on ingredient listing,

consumer awareness of importants of antioxidants.

Accelerated oxidative

stability testing

Rancimat

Air purged through hot oil.

Oxipres

Sample exposed to oxygen.

Much broader variety of matrices

(powders, dog kibbles, bakery wares,

emulsions).

In-house.

Accelerated testing

Protection factor =

time-until-rancid w/ antioxidants /

time-until-rancid w/o antioxidants

Think about protection!

Especially in personal care!

Highly unsaturated vegetable oils

Odour profile is critical

High-value products

Storage is long, not cooled, does not

help

Not all antioxidants are

the same

Freedom of choice

Efficacy (which vegetable oil,

formulations)

Formulation requirements (haziness)

Preference (no synthetics, no palm)

Claim (antioxidant)

More than 'in-can' protection?

Antrancine BHT,

Antrancine BHA

Reasonably effective

Highly soluble in oils

Antrancine BHT,

Antrancine BHA

In other systems, BHA can be 1.5 times

better as BHT.

Protection with

tocopherols

Using the power from nature:

high gamma- + delta-tocopherol

High antioxidant efficacy

Mixed better than alpha

Alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E) not the best

choice for 'in-can' protection!

Please note dl-alpha-tocopherol acetate

does not have 'in-can' antioxidant

activity!

Tocomix L70-IP

advantages

Good image!

High gamma+delta-tocopherol.

Health benefits of e.g. gamma-

tocopherol.

Avoids 'pro-oxidative' effect of alpha-

tocopherol.

Non-GMO (Identity Preserved).

Especially very high efficacy in oils with

low levels of tocopherol.

Efficacy depends on type

of system

Example: shea butter, high efficacy.

Efficacy depends on

system

Some oils (e.g. sunflower oil) are not

easily protected by tocopherol alone

...but when oil is 'diluted' (in formulation),

efficacy is high!

For instance, in a skin oil (mixture of

neutral oils and vegetable oils),

protection factor 11!

Phytrox LT10-IP

A highly effective synergistic blend!

High stability

Easy to dose

No high temperature required

Phytrox LT10-IP

High efficacy, even in difficult systems.

Consistently higher than tocopherols

alone.

Clarity to be checked in oil solution.

Emulsions

Phytrox LT10-IP is a standard choice in

emulsions!

Phytrox LTR15-IP

Based on the Phytrox LT10-IP, even higher efficacy with rosemary extract in addition.

Even 10 to 40 % improvement over LT10-IP.

Best vegetable based antioxidant system.

Rosemary extract

Nature has got also something else

up her sleeve

The power of rosemary

High efficacy when active levels are

compared with BHT.

Phytrox Rosemary L4-

CA deod

Rosemary extract in sunflower oil.

Guaranteed level of carnosic acid

and carnosol.

Low odour.

High efficacy, also in difficult

systems, easily a better efficacy than

toco's in difficult oils.

Easy to dissolve, clarity in oils.

Low use levels: usual level 1000 ppm

Efficacy

Efficacy depends on system.

650 ppm Phytrox Rosemary L4-CA

deod:

(= 30 ppm carnosic acid + carnosol)

approx. 25 % improvement in

sunflower oil,

approx. 350 % in systems low in

tocopherol.

Palm-free options

Using the combined power of rosemary

and tocopherol.

1100 ppm Phytrox Rosemary L4-CA

deod

425 ppm Tocomix L70-IP

No synthetics, maximised clarity!

Choice depends on oil and system

Oils

Tocomix L70-IP very effective in some oils

Phytrox LT10-IP, Phytrox Rosemary L4-CA deod

L70-IP and L4-CA deod strong combo!

Oil blends

Tocomix L70-IP,

Phytrox LT10-IP, Phytrox Rosemary L4-CA deod

Emulsions

As above, but Phytrox LT10-IP is logical choice!

Beyond in-can protection: skin benefits!

DNA protection

Carnosic acid protects plasmid DNA from UV-A generated OH radicals.

MMP expression

Carnosic acid inhibits UV-induced MMP-1, -3 and -9 expression in human fibroblasts cell

line.

Product overview

Antrancine BHA, Antrancine BHT Synthetic options

Tocomix L50-IP / L70-IP / L90-IP Tocopherols in sunflower oil

Phytrox Rosemary L4-CA deod. Rosemary extract in sunflower oil

Phytrox LTRE-IP Tocopherols and rosemary in sunflower oil

Phytrox LT10-IP Tocopherols and ascorbyl palmitate in active carrier

Phytrox LTR15-IP As LT10-IP, plus rosemary

Key messages

Use of antioxidants important to retain freshness.

Best choice of antioxidant depends on system, we can help.

Extensive portfolio offers large degree of freedom.

Accelerated testing helpful tool.

Antioxidants can be part of anti-ageing strategy.

Questions and discussion.