Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and Practice: Fall 2004

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Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and PracticeFall 2004

Animal Behavior

Consulting:

Theory and Practice

Vol. 1, No. 1Fall 2004

A publication of

The International Association

of Animal Behavior Consultants

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Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and Practice

Vol. 1, No. 1 Fall 2004

PresidentLynn Hoover, LSW, CDBC

Editor-in-ChiefMychelle Blake, MSW, CDBC

Associate EditorJolanta Benal, JD

Journal Review Board

Brenda Aloff, CDBC

Darlene Arden, CDBC

Jolanta Benal, JD

Mychelle Blake, MSW, CDBC

Kelley Bollen, MS, CDBC, CABC

Susan Bulanda, MAT, CDBC

Kayce Cover, MEd, CDBC

Steve Dale, CABC

Jean Donaldson, MA, CDBC

Ian Dunbar, PhD, BVetMed, MRCVS, CPDT, CDBC

Rachel Friedman, MSW, LISW, CABC

Jan Gribble, MA, CDBC

Chris Hamer, MS, CDBC

Lynn Hoover, LSW, CDBC

Pam Johnson-Bennett, CABC

Trish King, CPDT, CDBC

Myrna Milani, DVM, CABC

James O’Heare, MA, PhD, CABC

Joanne Oliva-Purdy, PhD, CABC

Merope Pavlides, PhD, MEd

Valerie Pollard, CDBC

Veronica Sanchez, MEd, CABC, NA-DOI Endorsed

Becky Schultz, CPDT, CDBC

Barbara Shumannfang, PhD, CPDT, CDBC

Pia Silvani, CPDT, CDBC

Thomas Van Winkle, MBA, CABC

Dani Weinberg, PhD, CDBC

Liz Wilson, CABC

Debbie Winkler, CPDT, CABC

Editorial Associates

Rachel Friedman, MSW, LISW, CABCMerope Pavlides, PhD, MEd Valerie Pollard, CDBC

The International Association of Animal Behavior ConsultantsThe International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants, Inc. is a professional association for the field of animal behavior consulting. The association represents the professional interests of behavior consultants throughout the world. It is involved with the problems, needs, and changing patterns of animal-owner relationships, and helps to ensure that the public’s needs are met by trained practitioners. The association provides the tools and resources animal behavior professionals need to succeed. It works tirelessly to nourish the animal-human bond.

The association’s members meet rigorous standards for education and training and are held to the highest ethical standards of the profession. Clinical members qualify as Certified Animal Behavior Consultants (CABC). They work with multiple species, including dogs, cats, horses, birds, and other animals. They have met the highest standards of the profession for education and clinical experience. Associate members are consultants in clinical practice, on the path to Clinical membership. The IAABC facilitates research, theory development, and education. It develops standards for education and training, professional ethics, and the clinical practice of animal behavior consulting. Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and Practice is the professional journal of the IAABC and is published semi-annually. All published work contained within is copyright 2004 The International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants, unless otherwise indicated.

Veronica Sanchez, MEd, CABC, NADOI EndorsedDebbie Winkler, CPDT, CABC

Beth Adelman, MS, CABC, Publications Consultant

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Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and Practice is published in accordance with the purposes of the sponsoring organization, the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants, Inc. (IAABC) and the International Association of Dog Behavior Consultants (IADBC), a division of the IAABC. The IAABC’s mission is to advance the professional understanding of animal behavior, the most effective management of animal behavior, and humane, scientifically-based plans to modify the behaviors of distressed animals, and to promote the animal-human bond. Toward that end, Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and Practice publishes articles on research, theory, clinical practice, and training in animal behavior consulting. We accept submissions of manuscripts on behavior consulting for all animals. We accept book and video reviews, commentary on practice, case studies, research, and essays.

Articles are selected on the basis of appropriateness, clarity, significance, timeliness, and contribution to the field of animal behavior consulting. Papers published in Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and Practice are selected from papers submitted directly to the IAABC editor-in-chief. Authors need not be members of the IAABC to submit manuscripts. No remuneration is paid for accepted manuscripts.

Business matters are handled by IAABC’s business office. Inquiries should be addressed to IAABC, 505 Timber Lane, Jefferson Hills, PA 15025. Phone: (412) 384-2677, or e-mail [email protected]. Copyright on all materials published in Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and Practice is held by the IAABC and authors must agree upon acceptance of the manuscript to transfer copyright to the IAABC. Permission to reproduce such copyrighted materials must be obtained through IAABC. Requests can be made by emailing [email protected]. No portion of an article may be reproduced without permission in writing. Reprint orders for individual articles are handled by the IAABC business office. If the manuscript contains more than 100 words of material previously published elsewhere, the authors must obtain written permission from the copyright holder to include this material in publication of their manuscript in Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and Practice. Any costs associated with obtaining this permission are the responsibility of the author or authors.

Manuscripts should be submitted to the editor-in-chief, Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and Practice, 505 Timber Lane, Jefferson Hills, PA 15025. E-mail: [email protected]. Electronic submission is preferred.

Manuscripts are accepted for consideration with the understanding that they have not been published previously and are not being considered simultaneously for publication elsewhere. The right to reject any manuscript or return it to the author for format, style, or other revisions before accepting it for publication is reserved by the editor-in-chief. Submission of a manuscript by the author(s) assumes acceptance of editing by the Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and Practice editorial staff.

Papers should be submitted in a form that will permit “blind” refereeing. The author’s name and other obvious identifying notations should appear only on a detachable title page. Manuscripts may be submitted electronically as an e-mail attachment in rich text format (.rtf) or in Microsoft Word to [email protected]. E-mail is the preferred submission format. The Editorial Office acknowledges receipt of the manuscripts and reaches a decision concerning publication as quickly as possible. Page proofs will be sent to authors via e-mail and must be returned within 72 hours. Changes are limited to correcting of printing errors, spelling, dates, and grammar. Substantive changes such as adding phrases, sentences, and paragraphs are rarely permitted.

Submissions are accepted on a rolling basis. Specific deadlines for issues are determined by the editor-in-chief for solicited manuscripts. Contact the editor-in-chief at [email protected] for specific deadline information.

Manuscripts should be formatted for 8-1/2” x 11” paper with a 1-inch margin on all sides. The entire manuscript, including footnotes, references, and quoted materials should be double-spaced. Total manuscript length, including references, tables, and figures, should not ordinarily exceed 30 pages using a 12-pt. font. Manuscripts should be ordered as follows:

Submission Guidelines

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Submission Guidelines (continued)

1. Title Page. The title page should give the title of the article and each author’s name along with his/her primary (current) professional affiliation, if applicable. Underneath this information, please provide: (1) asentence about each author that includes author’s name, highest earned degree, professional certifications (e.g. CPDT, CDBC), current professional or departmental affiliation if applicable, and location; (2) any changes in affiliation subsequent to the time of the study if this is a research submission; (3) previous presentations of the paper, grants, or thanks and acknowledgments; (4) contact information including name of author, complete mailing address, and e-mail.

2. Text. Following the introduction, papers should be divided into appropriate sections with headings. First-order headings should be centered on a separate line, bold, all caps. Second-order headings should be placed on a separate line, begin with the left margin, and be completely italicized. Third-order headings should begin on the same line with the first sentence of the section, be indented five spaces, have only the first word capitalized, end with a period, and be italicized.

3. References. Citations should be given in the text by enclosing in parentheses the surname of the author(s) and the year of the publication. The page numbers are included when a direct quote is used. Example: (Hanley, 2002, p. 204). References for all citations should be typed, double-spaced, and listed alphabetically on a separate sheet(s) following the text. References should be in hanging indent format. Journal and book titles are italicized. Page numbers must be included for book chapters.

4. Notes. Notes should be typed, double-spaced, and numbered consecutively on a separate sheet following the references. Notes should be used rarely.

5. Figures (Tables, Charts, Graphs, Photographs). Each figure should be given on a separate sheet. The desired location of figures in the text should be noted, and figures should be numbered appropriately so that they correspond to mention of them in the text. If photographs are submitted that include a person or person(s), written permission from the subject(s) of the photo is required. Please contact the editor-in-chief at [email protected] for the standard photo release form. Photos electronic files must be at a resolution of 300 dpi or higher.

6. Style. The style calls for formal usage. Contractions, slang, and abbreviations should be omitted, except in direct quotations, or when usage is specifically demanded by the context and set forth in quotation marks. For manuscripts primarily focused on presenting the results of a research study, the use of the first person should be avoided unless it facilitates greater clarity in expression than would use of another form. All accepted manuscripts are subject to editing. For a copy of the style guide, contact the editor-in-chief at [email protected].

A note regarding terminology: There is controversy, frequently quite heated, over whether a person who keeps a companion or service animal should be called that animal’s “owner” or its “guardian.” Because usage here often reflects a writer’s strongly held ethical beliefs and political opinions, to impose another term may effectively misrepresent his or her point of view. The editors of Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and Practice have concluded that it is best to let each writer make the choice of terminology. Therefore, the use of terminology regarding animal ownership or guardianship is a reflection of the author or authors’ own beliefs and not necessarily a reflection of the beliefs of the editors or the IAABC. We ask our readers and members to bear in mind that whatever our differences in this respect, we are united in our goal of working with animals and people in the most scientific and compassionate way possible.

The guide for citation style is the Publication Manual of the American Psychological Association (5th ed.). This guide can be obtained from the Order Department, American Psychological Association, PO Box 92984, Washington, DC 20090. The guide can also be ordered on the American Psychological Association’s web site, www.apastyle.org/pubmanual.html. Our editorial staff can assist you with APA style as well.

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Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and Practice

Vo1. 1, No. 1 Fall 2004

Table of Contents

President’s Message .......................................................................................6

Association and Member News ........................................................................ 8

Feature Articles:

Principles of Animal Behavior Consulting: An Ethological Approach ....................... 15 Myrna Milani, DVM, CABC

Triangles in Family Assessment ........................................................................22 Lynn Hoover, LSW, CDBC

The Behaviorist’s Road Less Traveled ................................................................ 27 Pam Johnson-Bennett, CABC

Reach for a Diversity of Animal Behavior Knowledge ........................................... 31 Joanne Olivia-Purdy, PhD, CABC

CASE STUDY: Don’t Leave Me! ........................................................................36 Tom Van Winkle, MBA, CABC

CASE STUDY: A Case of Apparently Unprovoked Aggression in a Dog .................... 41 Debbie Winkler, CPDT, CABC

GOOD DOG: A Program to Help Dog Owners Address Aggression Problems in Dogs 46 Sue Alexander, CPDT, CDBC

REVIEW: Fight! A Practical Guide to the Treatment of Dog-Dog Aggression ............ 65 Dani Weinberg, PhD, CDBC

Letters to the Editor may be sent to [email protected].

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On Values in Animal Behavior Consulting

With the founding of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consulting (IAABC) and its divisions, and the emergence of the profession of behavior consulting for animals living in relationship with humans, the importance of ethics cannot be overstated. Most readers will agree that there is an inherent ethical dimension in all forms of animal behavior consulting, because consulting necessarily involves influencing others in a way that accords with a set of values and questions relating to how humans and animals should live together (Doherty, 1995; London, 1964; Margolis, 1966; Prillelytensky, 1997). Until now, the values of practitioners seemed either not to have been made explicit or to have leaned toward the judgmental. As we IAABC members embrace the ethics of the helping professions, we must examine more closely the moral and ethical dimensions of our work and ultimately answer the essential question, “What, therefore, must we do?”

“What, therefore, must we do?” leads to more pointed questions. How do we best treat our clients and colleagues with respect and dignity? How do we protect others’ right to self-determination and free speech, while also promoting social justice for animals who are dependent on humans for their care? The answers lie in maintaining a balance between accepting differences and adhering to just practices.

Without this balance, one can fall into extremes. At one extreme, if we are too rigid in our approach we have the danger of being moralistic and, in the interests of what we perceive as justice, interfering with clients’ and colleagues’ self-determination. At the other extreme, if we were to declare that anything is acceptable, this non-judgmental approach and openness to differences leads to moral relativism and numbness to issues that have an impact on animals.

Because we all share the common ground of IAABC’s Standards of Practice and Code of Ethics, our members do not have to be of one mind to enjoy support, protection, and positive regard from their professional association, and all members have an equal opportunity to emerge with distinctive voices.

While no two practitioners could ever be alike, going a step further to actively encourage diversity makes the consulting environment richer and more stimulating. When we are accepting and respectful of clients’ and colleagues’ autonomy and avoid telling them how they err and how they ought to behave, that is when we embrace a non-judgmental approach (Tomm, 1988). This spirit of respecting differences within a clearly defined ethical framework is, in turn, echoed at the organizational level (e.g. diverse membership, journal contents) and throughout the profession (e.g. the work of the social justice committee in setting a standard for animal

Message from the Presidentby Lynn D. Hoover, LSW, CDBC

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behavior consulting even as it emerges as a new field).

This is an unusual issue of Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and Practice. It provides us with our first formal opportunity to express divergent beliefs in a setting resplendent with referees. The editors and the review board assess submissions for reliability and validity. They seek to compile a journal of high quality, while being equally committed to creating an environment that encourages individual expression and respects differences.

We envision communities filled with qualified IAABC members who work tirelessly to improve the lives of animals. At the same time, these professionals avoid a rush to judgment or shunning others over differences. Towards these ends we embrace the values of a non-judgmental approach, tolerance for differences, positive regard, confidentiality, self-awareness, and the outgrowth of such high-minded principles: Justice for all.

References

Doherty, W. (1995). Soul searching: Why psychotherapy must promote moral responsibility. New

York: Basic Books.

Message from the President

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Association and Member News

Association News

Dog Fancy Magazine and Animal Planet Radio. Dog Fancy magazine introduced the IAABC in the December 2004 issue. Thanks also to Pam Johnson-Bennett for giving the association its first radio and television coverage, and to member Steve Dale for inviting us to talk about the association on his popular Animal Planet Radio and including IAABC in his keynote address at the Association of Pet Dog Trainers conference in Denver. Thanks to every member who uses their resources to help the association achieve its goals.

Mini-Conference. IAABC will host its first mini-conference in Columbia, Maryland. Scheduled for the weekend of June 4 & 5, 2005, it will be held at member Ruth Chase’s Coventry School for Dogs and Their People. The conference will be for IAABC members only.

Logos. We encourage all members to use the IAABC logo on their own web sites and in marketing materials. E-mail [email protected] for logos.

Brochures. The Education Committee labored over the brochure, “Dog Behavior Consulting: A Consumer’s Guide” for members to use for public education and marketing. They are available to Certified Dog Behavior Consultants (CDBCs) via e-mail attachment. E-mail [email protected] for the templates. Members add their own contact information. Many thanks to the pioneers who contributed so generously to this effort: Veronica Sanchez as Chair, Robin Pool for her design; Becky Schultz, Sue Kapla, Jen Shryock, Barbara Handelman, Barbara Shumannfang, Parvene Farhoody, and Beth Adelman for her superb editing skills. This publication will serve as a template for a second brochure, “Animal Behavior Consulting: A Consumer’s Guide.” Parrot, cat, and horse behavior consulting brochures will follow.

Animal Behaviorists. The IAABC is reaching out to applied animal behaviorists and board-certified veterinary behaviorists. We would like to have them on-board and supportive of our efforts. The animals and their owners need thousands more qualified behavior consultants than are currently available. As we all know, animals are being inappropriately punished, discarded, and euthanized—in droves—with resolvable behavior problems. Collectively—that is, if the responsible professions join hands—we can both build and meet the need.

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Long-Term Planning for Animal Behavior Consulting Education. Many thanks to Barbara Shumannfang as Chair, Janice Triptow, and Virginia Hoffman for investigating all aspects of accreditation and other long-term planning for animal behavior consulting education. As a result of their exhaustive research, the association has a clear vision for transitioning the field to more formal standards.

Education Collaborative. Chris Hamer, as Chair of the Education Collaborative (EC), is working closely with Accreditation to develop standards and application procedures for Continuing Education Units (CEUs). IAABC mandates that certified members receive 24 CEUs in a two-year period, ending December 31.

Chris is working out an innovative program to approve self-study options for CEUs; some options may be used by Associate members to meet requirements for certification. All members are welcome to submit seminars, books, videos, and CDs for review; you will be asked to prepare tests to measure learning. Contact Chris at [email protected].

APDT Conference. Thanks to an inspiration from Chris Hamer and support from members attending the conference, IADBC was represented at the APDT conference in Denver. Judging from the large number of inquiries and applications that followed, the members succeeded in their mission.

Membership Certificates. Designing certificates suitable for framing is more time-consuming and complex than might be imagined. When there are volunteers to carry out this important task, IAABC will issue certificates to Certified and Associate members in 2005.

Parrot Behavior Consulting. We welcome Joanne Oliva-Purdy and Liz Wilson and the other leading avian behavior experts who came aboard to grow the Parrot Behavior Consulting division of the IAABC. We expect all will benefit from the creative exchange and the swapping of insights and information.

Journal. Our deepest thanks to pioneering editors Mychelle Blake and Jolanta Benal, the Journal Review Board members, and our authors for their stunning achievement, Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and Practice, the first of its genre. Calling all authors! Please contribute to the next journal. Submission guidelines are posted to the website at www.iaabc.

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org/journal.htm. The editors are looking for commentaries, case studies, formal research, and more.

Service Animal Consulting. Are you interested in service animal consulting? A group of experienced, high-integrity members founded the Service Animal Consulting (SAC) division of the IAABC, with Veronica Sanchez as Chair. This is with the thought that:

• There’s a need for service animal consultants in the communities. Behavior consultants are likely providers of these services because they have many skills necessary for working both with animals and with humans who have illnesses and disabilities.

• A high percentage of service dogs are stressed and members of the service animal division can get the information out there that’s needed, i.e., how to reduce stress and improve lives.

• Many IAABC/ IADBC members tell us they want to learn service animal training, and to adapt techniques to serve people with disabilities.

• Professional service animal handlers tend to know a lot about optimal development and socialization and prevention of behavior problems. We expect that the SACs strong presence in the IAABC will enrich us and improve the lot of animals and owners. If you are interested in the SAC listserv and in SAC approval, visit the SAC website, http://www.iaabc.org/service_animal_consulting.htm.

Web Content. If you have a training/consulting-related product to sell, or a seminar to promote, you can list them now under DBC Resources on the IADBC website, www.iaabc.org. E-mail [email protected].

All members, please check your listings on the web for inclusion and accuracy. Certified Clinical members are listed under Consultant Locator, http://www.iaabc.org/consultant_locator.htm, by division and region. All members are listed under Member Locator by region, http://www.iaabc.org/member_locator.htm. Member Locator was established to encourage regional networking and referrals; you will find many accomplished trainers in Member Locator. If you want to make changes or do not wish to be listed, please e-mail [email protected], and allow time for a response.

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Social Justice Commission. The Social Justice Commission wrote a position statement on breed-specific legislation, which can be found on the web site. Congratulations on a job well done! Tom Van Winkle is Chair; Jan Gribble, Jeff Silverman, and Becky Schultz are members.

Dogwise. Dogwise is giving IAABC members a discount on purchases: Ten percent for Clinical & Associate members and five percent for Affiliate members. To use the discount you have to enter your member number in your Dogwise account records. E-mail [email protected] for your membership number.

Membership Renewals. All members must renew by December 31, 2004. We would prefer that if no one had to pay to belong, but of course we need money to grow the profession. Please e-mail [email protected] for a “bill.” Founding members (the first 200) will receive a discount.

Small Dog Issues. Darlene Arden and Lynn Hoover are developing a section of the website devoted to the needs of small dogs. We encourage practitioners to look to the website, www.iaabc.org, for insights on small dog behavior and the article, “Rehoming Small Dogs.”

IAABC Listservs.

• IAABC-L. If you would like to be added to the general listserv for case discussion, join IAABC-L. E-mail: [email protected]. Many thanks to Michael Burkey, listserv manager, for helping to keep our list discussions grounded. Thanks also to the participants for the respectful and creative exchange. Visit groups.yahoo.com/group/IAABC-L for a description.

• CAT_IAABC. If you want to learn about cats, e-mail [email protected] to be added to the list. Thanks to members for the high-level discussions.

• SACIAABC. E-mail Sue Alexander at [email protected] to be added to the list. SACIAABC is the “place to be” if you want to learn about service animal consulting.

• PARROT IAABC. Listserv for members interested in learning about behavior consulting for parrots. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Parrot_IAABC/.

• IAABC TUTORIAL. The tutorial is here to support learning about dog behavior consulting through discussion of the major disorders, with particular attention to systematically discussing clinical practice issues among members. Tutorials will follow for the other divisions. Members can use their participation in the tutorials to help them on the path to certification. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/IAABC_Tutorial/.

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Ethics Committee. Thanks to Michael Burkey as Chair, Niki Lamproplos, and Carolyn DeFiore for being there when needed. The SAC especially appreciates your feedback on documents.

Publications Consultants. The IAABC must be on the right path to attract the talented editor Beth Adelman as Publications Consultant. Also, the widely respected Pam Johnson-Bennett is serving as Consultant for feline behavior education and feline-related journal submissions. Thanks for being there with your support, Beth and Pam.

Therapy Animal Consulting. Members Steve Dale and Patricia Hanley-Kallen are dedicated to building a Therapy Animal Consulting (TAC) division of the IAABC.

IAABC Approved Supervisors. Clinical members: We have members in all categories, but

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especially Associates on the path to Clinical membership, who will benefit from supervision of their clinical practice experience. If you are interested please apply now to become an IAABC Approved Supervisor. E-mail Lynn Hoover, [email protected] and note if you are willing to supervise from a distance or on-site only. The Standards Commission has the right to accept, ask applicants to meet supplemental criteria, or turn down applications, without explanation. Confidentiality is guaranteed.

Please help us develop a database of IAABC Approved Supervisors. Check with your liability insurer for coverage; there is reasonably priced insurance out there that covers supervision.

The Association Is Its Members. The IAABC is doing what it can to change social norms. When members ask, “What can your professional association do for you?” please also ask, “What can you do for your profession?”

Member News

NOTE: Please consider purchasing your books through the Resources section of the web site, www.iaabc.org. Members get a discount while generating revenue for the association.

Darlene Arden. The Angell Memorial Animal Hospital Book of Wellness and Preventive Care for Dogs, (Contemporary Books), which was released last year in hardcover, was released in paperback last month. It has a chapter devoted to training and behavior.

Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can’t Get Unless You’re a Dog (McGraw-Hill) was published last month. It’s about the human-animal bond since it covers everything you can do with and for your dog, even doggy things you can do without your dog. Included are travel, positive training, canine activities like freestyle, agility, and Dog Scouts of America, and much, much more. The book is international in scope.

This fall, Darlene presented seminars at GroomExpo (also a Training Expo), on wellness, working with toy and small dogs, and four hours of dog writing seminars. She also filled in for Shirlee Kalstone who was ill and delivered a seminar on allergies.

Trish King. Trish’s new book, Parenting Your Dog, was published in September by TFH Publishing. It is available through Dogwise and major booksellers. It’s a book for the public, drawing on parenting experience to effectively and humanely raise a dog—it has sections on puppies, adolescents, adults, aging dogs, and behavior problems.

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Riggan Shilstone. Riggan wrote the groundbreaking protocols on the “Ethical Use of Service Dogs” that will be promoted with full support from the association. She will present on this topic at the Assistance & Therapy Dog Conference on September 2-4, 2005. For conference information, go to www.paws-up.net/conference.html.

Lynn Hoover. Lynn authored and recorded an audio CD set, The Family in Dog Behavior Consulting. It is available at www.PEHNinstitute.com. To follow will be an interactive CD-based courses, The Person of the Animal Behavior Consultant, and Service Animal Consulting, co-authored with Debbie Winkler.

Pam Johnson-Bennett. Pam’s new book, Cat vs. Cat: Keeping Peace When You Have More Than One Cat, was published this summer by Penguin Books and is available at major booksellers. Cat vs. Cat is a one-of-its-kind guide to setting up and maintaining a peaceful multi-cat home.

Jean Donaldson. Jean’s new book, Fight! A Practical Guide to the Treatment of Dog-Dog Aggression, is a guide to the treatment of dog-dog aggression; this down-to-earth manual will teach you how to use behavior modification to retrain a dog that bullies other dogs, or becomes fearful when approached by other dogs. It is available through Dogwise and the other major booksellers.

Dee Ganley. Dee is offering seminars for shelters. The Upper Valley Humane Society has been nationally recognized for its innovative sheltering programs. Their creative, but practical, “retraining” programs were designed and instituted by Dee Ganley, who has over 25 years of experience training self-control skills for pets and for competition and working dogs. Dee’s methods are especially successful for both owned and shelter dogs with aggression issues. UVHS has been setting a

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Principles of Animal Behavioral Consulting: An Ethological Approach

by Myrna Milani, DVM, CABC

Given the varied backgrounds of those who do animal behavioral consulting, formulating principles that all agree upon seems unlikely. On a personal level, however, such principles can save consultants time and energy because they enable one to sort the wheat from the chaff in sometimes very complex situations. The following principles have been drafted as research into and experience with domestic animal behavior and the human-companion animal bond has evolved over more than three decades. They are presented as a guide for those seeking to tailor their own unique approach to animal behavioral consulting, one that will best enable them to meet their particular clients’ and patients’ needs.

It also bears noting that the author defines herself as a veterinary ethologist rather than a behaviorist. The distinction between an ethologist and a behaviorist is important, because the conclusions of the former are based on observations and studies of animal behavior as it occurs in its natural environment, whereas those of the latter are based on studies of animals, usually rodents, in controlled laboratory settings.1 Further insight into this difference may be gained by comparing the work of Jane Goodall and B. F. Skinner: Goodall wanted to know how animals learn and how they teach each other, whereas Skinner wanted to know how people can get animals to learn what they—humans—want the animals to learn.

The Principle of Behavioral Consulting Priorities

It is not enough to enjoy working with animals. An animal behavioral consultant must enjoy working with people as much or even more. The more complex the animal’s problem is, the

greater the need for quality human communication skills.

A sincere enjoyment of working with people and the ability to communicate with them in

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a meaningful way, even under the most trying conditions, is paramount in animal behavioral consulting, for three reasons. 1. The nature of the human-animal bond guarantees that all clients are intimately involved in their animal’s problems whether they choose to acknowledge this or not; 2. The client and other people often serve as the primary source of information regarding the problem, and the ability to interact comfortably with that person (or persons) is essential to gain that information; 3.The responsibility for making any changes necessary to resolve the animal’s problem lies with the client; the less rapport the consultant has with that person or persons, the less compliance.

The Principle of Ethological Relatedness

It is impossible for humans or domestic animals to change their behavior without changing their physiology and relationship with one other. Similarly, their relationship or physiology cannot be

changed without changing their behavior.

This principle results from an on-going survey of the literature on the effects of behavior on physiology and vice versa, literature that describes the effects humans have on domestic animal physiology and behavior, and the findings of studies exploring these same two animal parameters as they affect humans. Low thyroid levels may lead to canine aggression; canine aggression may lead to low thyroid levels. Owners who fear their animals will bite them or others experience physiological and relationship changes that enhance the probability that their animals will display this behavior: their heart rate and blood pressure increases; they interact in a way that communicates a lack of trust rather than confidence. Although any discomfort associated with her hip dysplasia may cause Cupcake to become snappy, her owner’s response to her dysplasia also will contribute to that result, as will the negative effect on behavior exerted by rear-end instability with or without concurrent pain.

The Principle of Client Conservation of Energy

Most people will not treat a problem until the amount of energy required to deal with the consequences of the problem exceeds that required to treat it.

This principle explains the occurrence of three otherwise exceedingly frustrating situations in animal behavioral consulting. First, it explains why it is sometimes so difficult to get people to make even the most rudimentary changes to resolve issues that will lead to more serious problems later. Second, it explains the desire for a quick fix for serious problems that may cause the animal a great deal of stress, but around which the owner can work with minimal effort, such

Principles of Animal Behavior Consulting: An Ethological Approach

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as the destructive animal who spends most of her time tranquilized in a crate. Third, it explains why it can be so difficult and unrewarding to work with clients who seek help for their animals because someone else forced them to do this. If owners do not share that view of the problem (or even that a problem exists, in some cases), then the treatment process represents, in their view, an unnecessary waste of energy.

The Principle of Historical Significance

The validity of the diagnosis of any animal behavioral problem is directly proportional to the quality of the history gathered.

Without a good history, nothing of value can be said about any animal’s behavior, let alone its proper treatment. Although reducing a behavioral problem to “food aggression” or “separation anxiety” superficially appears to simplify matters, the effect is comparable to putting blinders on a horse. While researchers conducting studies seek to eliminate as many variables as possible to increase the probability that others can repeat their experiments and get the same results, recognizing all those variables is what enables a consultant to precisely diagnose an animal’s problem and formulate a treatment program that will best meet that animal’s and his/her owner’s needs.

The Principle of Credible Reference Points

Nothing can be said about what constitutes abnormal animal behavior unless what constitutes normal animal behavior is known.

Knowledge of normal animal behavior is essential when dealing with problem behaviors, because many times what people define as a problem is actually a normal animal behavior under those circumstances. That is, the animal is displaying a normal behavior that creates a problem for the owner. Understanding a problem behavior’s normal roots confers several advantages:

1. It provides the consultant with an awareness of what circumstances among conspecifics (members of the same species) precipitate such a display. Understanding how the relationship between littermates and pack mates differs from that between mature adult and young animals, for example, plays a crucial role in the analysis of companion animal aggression.


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2. It reduces the temptation to project emotion-based, rather than knowledge-based meaning, on animal displays. For example, a dog who wants to signal higher rank may grab another dog’s muzzle. Dogs who bite human faces often attempt to communicate this same message. Those lacking knowledge of normal canine behavior may erroneously conclude the latter animals are “going for the jugular” or otherwise engaging in predatory displays.

3. Clients who recognize that their animal’s behavior, though inappropriate and unacceptable, is also normal given their particular environment and relationship gain a tremendous psychological advantage over those who believe their animal is mentally deranged of otherwise flawed. This benefit always enhances client commitment, but it is particularly valuable in cases of aggression, where clients’ confidence in their animals as well as themselves plays a vital role in successfully resolving the problem.

4. Knowledge of normal animal behavior provides insight into possible ways to resolve the problem. The more any behavioral/bond modification program parallels the way animals of that same species normally would resolve similar problems, the more natural the solution. The more natural the solution, the more readily the animal can comprehend what is wanted and respond accordingly.

The Principle of Behavioral Context

No behavior has any meaning unless the context in which it occurs is known.

Because humans are so highly dependent on language as the primary form of communication, it is easy to forget that animals use behavior as their primary form of communication. However, just as a word may have different meanings depending on the context in which it is spoken, so may an animal’s behavior. For example, the display many associate with canine subordination may signal dominance in certain contexts. And just as we cannot say that a person who always uses a certain word in a certain context will use it that same way in a different context, we cannot say that dogs who routinely display dominant behaviors in one context will do so in others.

Because of this, although it is acceptable to label certain behaviors within a certain context, it is best to avoid labeling animals. This prevents the consultant from applying labels that might be misleading, and that also may negatively affect the human-animal relationship. For example, labeling


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a dog “dominant aggressive” on the basis of the animal’s behavior within a specific context may elicit such frightening images that the owners of the dog may opt to euthanize rather than treat him. This is not to say that all aggressive animals can or should be treated, but rather that such a decision should be based on solid knowledge of the exact circumstances in which the problem behavior occurs, rather than assumptions.

The Principle of Domestic Animal and Human Relativity

One size does not fit all; beware of applying platitudes and generalities to specific cases. These may apply, but they may not.

Unlike those who teach classes, who seek to meet the needs of the majority of animals and humans involved, those who deal with problem animal behavior must meet the needs of a particular human-animal combination in a particular environment. Platitudes and generalities that may seduce both consultants and clients include: castration calms male dogs and prevents roaming, aggression, and prostate cancer; genes cause aggression and other problems; “positive” training is the most natural and humane; pets love us unconditionally; puppy socialization classes benefit all pups. Although such absolutes may sound good on paper, and some may even be true for the majority of animals, given the variability of animals, humans, and the human-animal bond, the only truism of any value in behavioral consulting is, “Never say never or always.”

The Principle of Directed Results

It makes no difference what an animal does for the consultant; what matters is what the animal does for the client.

When working with clients and their animals, a strong urge sometimes exists to take the animal away from clients, show them what to do, and maybe even do it for them. Sometimes this occurs because the consultant feels more comfortable working with animals than people. Not only does working with the animal put the consultant on more intellectually solid ground, he or she may also gain all the positive physiological and emotional benefits offered by the intimate interaction with the animal. However, at the same time as the consultant gains these benefits, the client loses them, and this may undermine that person’s confidence. Other times consultants may believe that a demonstration is worth a thousand words. It may be, but only if the majority of time is spent ensuring that clients can duplicate those actions themselves; clients who lack physiological, behavioral, and bond qualities comparable to those of the consultant may not experience the same results. Still other times, consultants believe that seeing how well an unruly pet behaves when skillfully handled will inspire clients to comply with the recommended

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program. Although some clients do respond in this manner, others may find the gap between the consultant’s skills and their own so overwhelming that they become discouraged.

The Principle of Client Involvement

The more involved clients are in the development of any treatment program, the better the program and the more committed the client to its success.

Given how many variables are involved in any one case, it makes sense to involve clients in the design of any treatment program because they know themselves, their animals, and their environments far better than any specialist. Essentially, the consultant’s function is to teach clients the skills they need to teach their animals the skills those animals need to resolve any problems. An excellent summation of how that consultant-to-client and client-to-animal teaching should occur comes from Lao-Tzu:

“Good teachers are best when students barely know they exist,

Not so good when students always obey and acclaim them,

Worst when students despise them.

Of good teachers, when their work is done and their aims fulfilled,

The student will say, ‘I did this myself.’”

The Principle of Disengagement

To obtain lasting results, at some point clients must accept full responsibility for implementing any needed changes, and the consultant must willingly grant them this freedom.

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Fortunately, most clients recognize when they possess sufficient confidence to ensure the desired animal behavior and relationship on their own, although it may take some clients longer than others to reach this point. However, there are those clients who would much prefer to remain dependent on the consultant than assume responsibility for the resolution of their animals’ problems. If the consultant feels a certain bond with those clients and their animals and/or enjoys the feelings that accompany client dependency, there is a temptation to maintain the dependent relationship for however long it takes to resolve the problem. Unfortunately, many times it is these clients’ unwillingness to accept responsibility for their own and their animals’ behavior (i.e., a lack of leadership) that contributes to the negative behavior. When that is the case, the consultant’s failure to let go may actually perpetuate the problem.

Occasionally, interaction with the consultant may serve to fulfill a client’s emotional needs rather than benefiting the animal. Some clients may consciously or subconsciously perpetuate the problem in an attempt to retain the consultant’s attention, a variation of Munchausen by proxy syndrome seen in human pediatric medicine.2 Others may attach symbolism to the animal that is dependant on the existence of the problem behavior. Still others may suffer from mental or emotional impairments that undermine commitment to any program.

Because of all this, it is beneficial to set limits on the interaction and define expectations up front. That way the consultant can disengage in a professional manner.

The Principle of Serenely Doing Nothing

There are times when the ability to calmly and confidently do nothing is far, far more effective than anything the consultant or client might do under those same circumstances.

When communicating with clients, the more information they convey the better. Consultants who provide clients with time to collect and express their thoughts will gain more information than those who feel obligated to fill every minute with chatter. When observing animals, confidently avoiding any direct interaction with the animal will provide more information about how that animal relates to the environment and owner and how the owner relates to the animal than anything the consultant could do. At the same time as consultants gather this information, they also communicate to the animal the energy-conserving behavior characteristic of those with the highest status. This, in turn, will preclude or abort many negative animal behavioral displays. Similarly, owners who can confidently ignore attention-seeking behaviors communicate a higher status relative to the animal than those who cannot. Because many problem behaviors occur as a result of human-animal role reversal, the ability to serenely do nothing is as powerful a tool for owners as it is for the consultant.

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Triangles and Family Assessment

by Lynn Hoover, LSW, CDBC

“The self of the blind man includes the ground he is walking on.” - Salvador Minuchin, MD

Do you ever notice what happens when tensions begin to rise between you and another person? Perhaps you launch into a discussion with a friend, expecting that you and she will have the same perspective, but discover that you have less in common than you realized. Your friend looks uncomfortable, and you sense that she is not responding favorably to your ideas. Casting about, you hit upon a way to salvage the situation: triangulation. That is, you are able to restore equilibrium, to calm things down, by referring to a third person whose ideas are even less appealing. The two of you reunite against that third person, who has the misfortune of not being present to create his own exculpatory triangle.

Triangulation can serve more constructive purposes than satisfying the togetherness needs of a duo at the expense of a third party. In well-functioning families, members negotiate issues through triangulation but succeed in shifting alignments flexibly, depending on the issue. For example, a wife may feel that a dog’s place is indoors, as a loved member of the family, while the husband was raised to believe that dogs should be relegated to the yard. The wife wins support from a child, and together they assert that it is “cruel” to leave a dog out of doors. The problem is resolved when the husband relents. He even grows to enjoy having the dog in the house.

Now the child hopes to press “togetherness” and “compassionate care of animals” a step further by sharing his bedroom with the dog. The mother, who is the primary housekeeper, worries about dirt. However, the father has grown fond of the dog and now remembers how, as a child, he used to sneak his outdoor dog inside and under the covers of his bed on cold nights. The child knows this and, so armed, turns to the father for support. He wins his father over, and the mother relents.

In this family, the triangles are flexible. The husband and wife are, we will posit, more often the team with the stronger voice, but the son is able to join with his father or mother at

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opportune times, to further a “good cause.”

A dysfunctional pattern is at work when an alliance becomes fixed, dominant, and inflexible. Some such stable coalitions are consistently in alliance with another member of the household, typically one who is outside the alliance. Another form of stable coalition is the detouring coalition, characterized by its intent to defuse stress between its members by designating another party as the source of their problem and assuming an attacking or solicitous attitude toward that person. It may work, and reinforcement is all the coalition (often a couple) needs to continue using that third party as a scapegoat.

The concept of the triangle and the process of triangulation are central to the application of family systems theory to animal behavior consulting. As described in the examples above, triangulation refers to the tendency of two-person systems to draw in a third person—or an animal—when tension develops between the two. Sometimes one of the original pair will seek to join that third party against the other; or the third party may find it necessary, for whatever reason, to cooperate first with one and then the other of the opposing parties.

That “third” might be an animal, who will be stressed by the competing expectations of the relationship system. But just as often the “third” is the animal behavior consultant, who is brought in to resolve relationship problems between the couple owning the animal. Equally, the conflict or potential for conflict may exist between animal owners and their veterinarian, groomer, or rescue organization, or a relative or neighbor, and the animal behavior consultant is called in to help people who have an agenda other than simply helping the animal.

Do you ever wonder why some families do not follow through with your carefully constructed training plans? Perhaps the family does not have the time or energy, or is confused; or your plan may be off-target. In your search for explanations, however, do not overlook the possibility that a family’s failure to comply may be motivated by relationship needs.

Typical Triangles

Perhaps the most familiar triangles are those that fit cultural norms. For example, the wife may be appropriately concerned for a dog, while the husband is more distant and harder to engage. The animal behavior consultant might conclude that the wife cares for the dog and the husband does not. But it may be that the wife is the “carrier” of the couple’s concern for their dog. That is, perhaps the husband wishes to dote on the dog but was raised to believe that “real

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men don’t fuss over dogs.” So the wife expresses caring on his behalf.

In another arrangement, a couple may discover that they can avoid their own conflict over issues having nothing to do with an animal by rallying in a united front of mutual concern for their animal. As long as they are focused on the animal’s “issues,” there is peace between them. If the animal’s problems are resolved, what is the couple left with but unresolved interpersonal issues? If they lack coping skills, they may be motivated to undermine the animal’s progress rather than work through couple issues. Triangulation can, of course, be more benign. Couple’s frequently squabble over a pet’s or a child’s behavior problems, then unite to respond productively as allies.

Another scenario involves parents at war. They are able to let go of their conflict when they unite to blame, or scapegoat, the family pet. This a common occurrence, with the spouses swapping stories about the misbehaviors of the “bad” pet and their unsuccessful efforts to rehabilitate her. Owners drawing together at the expense of their dog may find dominance theory most attractive, because it offers a rationale for using muscle to “put the dog in her place.”

I worked with a family with a Houdini cat who ran off at opportune times. The family joined together routinely to chase after him … and when he finally allowed himself to be caught, they punished him severely. In this way, the family guaranteed that the problem would continue, and that the searches would be long and challenging. You may find yourself wondering why, when punishment is so ineffective, so many families use it. But sometimes the family needs the problem more than the solution.

We also often encounter owners who are kind but amazingly inept at fixing problems with their animal. If they remain incompetent in spite of our best efforts as highly skilled behavior consultants and trainers, we might suspect triangulation. Again, the need for an animal with problems can outweigh the need for problem resolution.

Suppose a child has brought home a bad report card. The family dog is not allowed on the furniture. The child, knowing that a parent is due home, invites the dog to find a comfy spot for himself on the couch. When the father arrives, the dog is “caught” and the father focuses on the dog’s misbehavior. In scolding the dog, he “forgets” to discuss with his son the drop in grades. In this scenario, the father does not enjoy confrontations with his son, so both parties collude to divert attention from the real issue of the child’s performance in school. The dog’s motivation is simpler: She enjoys sleeping on furniture because it is soft.

Pets living with single owners are not immune to triangulation. A third party does not have to

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be present to affect the emotional processes between a dyad. For example, a young woman in her twenties is living alone. She adopts a puppy for companionship. Her parents might call often to criticize her handling of the puppy. The young woman might “feed” her parents information about a “naughty” puppy that confirms their view that the daughter could not get by without their advice. Thus, the daughter keeps her parents engaged. Or, the daughter might reject all advice from her parents and do everything in opposition to them. She ends up rejecting even useful advice. If the behavior consultant rolls in with similar advice without establishing leadership, the woman will reject that too.

Coalition

A spouse may form a coalition with an animal, against or to the exclusion of her significant other. It is a familiar scene: The wife (usually) is closely bonded with a dog, and the dog becomes intent on “protecting” her, his precious resource, from the husband. The excluded party, the husband, supports this pattern by keeping his distance.

Who caused this problem? Chances are the dog has inherent tendencies to guard, but the problem is perpetuated and escalates because the dog’s response meets the emotional needs of his owners. Typically, the husband may grumble that the dog is coming between him and his wife, but unconsciously he may feel relieved that the dog is meeting her needs and thus sparing him fuller responsibility for maintaining intimacy in the marriage. The downside for the man is that he also has unmet needs, but when the dog runs interference both spouses are protected against intimacy.

An owner might form a coalition with the dog against outsiders. I know of a dog who will not let anyone near his elderly owner—but they are a “good-enough” team because the woman does not care much for socializing. She is afraid of people. Does the dog sense his owner’s vulnerability and fearfulness, himself feel afraid, and take matters into his own paws? I also know a number of dog owners with phobias—irrational fears—whose dogs have also developed inappropriate fearfulness. These dogs might well exhibit better behavior in a home with a strong leader who makes the dog feel safe and protected. A strong, skillful leader would ask the dog to defer to her better judgment about strangers, and would communicate that humans are not a threat.

In another arrangement, the triangulated member assumes the role of go-between for family members, thus balancing loyalties and regulating tension and intimacy. As a behavior consultant, how often do you feel called upon to serve as go-between for a couple, helping them to regulate tensions by deferring first to one, then to the other? For example, perhaps a husband is intent on showing you that the wife is inept, the evidence being that their dog is not housetrained. The husband does not mention that he habitually ignores signs that the dog needs


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to eliminate—in other words, he is not giving either the dog or his wife the support they need. You are supposed to fixed the problem, but without the husband’s support.

Families triangulate according to the level of tension in the system, and as a measure of how much tension they can tolerate. In sum, when you assess animals living in relationships with humans, consider family dynamics and stay alert for triangulation. Triangles can facilitate problem-solving—but more often than not, there is mischief in the air.

ReferencesMinuchin S. (1990). Family therapy techniques. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press. Geurin P., Fogarty T., Fay L., Kautto J. (1996) Working with relationship triangles: The one-two-three of psychotherapy. New York, NY: Guilford Press.


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The Behaviorist’s Road Less Traveledby Pam Johnson-Bennett, CABC

I am often asked how a person gets into the field of animal behavior. Almost every day, people tell me how they’ve had animals their whole lives and could probably do what I do. I just politely smile because if they really knew the amount of hard work, dedication, and heartbreak involved on the way to being an animal behavior consultant, they wouldn’t be so flippant.

Happy Accidents

My life as a behaviorist has been a 20-year journey that is, to say the least, unconventional. It was not the life I intended, but I wouldn’t change one day of it.

If I had intended to be a behaviorist from the start, I would have taken the more traditional route. I would have become a veterinarian and then worked to become certified in behavior. Of course back then, who knew this career even existed?

My decision to become a behaviorist was entirely accidental. It started when I impulsively adopted two four-week old kittens that were in danger of being dumped in the snow and left for dead by a teenager.

Like so many people, I had grown up a “dog person.” I knew nothing about cats and wasn’t even sure I liked them. I wasn’t about to walk away from these two precious kittens though, and so I scooped them up and headed toward my car.

Although my heart was certainly in the right place, I wasn’t prepared for being a cat owner. I took care of all the basics—love, vet visits, spaying, litter box, food, water—but I didn’t understand how cats think and I certainly didn’t have a clue as to what very young kittens needed in order to develop into confident, well-behaved adults. Being a dog person, I kept trying to use those tried and true dog training methods on my kittens, only to fail time and time again.

As the kittens grew, they developed many misbehaviors because of my misinformed training attempts. They became so bad that my veterinarian recommended euthanasia. His opinion was that there were so many “worthwhile” cats in the world who needed homes so why waste my time with these two. I know this seems shocking to you, but keep in mind the mentality of some of the less-than-caring veterinarians who practiced many years ago—animal behavior education was not part of the veterinary curriculum.

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That veterinarian’s recommendation actually served as the most important turning point in my life. I went home and looked at these precious creatures and realized I was the one who was guilty of “misbehaviors” and not them. Determined to educate myself, I went to the book store to read about cat behavior. To my disappointment, there were hardly any books available on cats at all. Behavior and psychology were not as well-defined and popular as they are today. The books I had to choose from were still basically viewing cats as interchangeable with dogs when it came to training.

I read whatever was available and I also picked up books on child psychology because I figured there would be many similarities in behavior. I also made the wise decision (finally) to use the most valuable resources that were right under my nose—my cats. I stopped trying to make them into what I thought they should be. I began truly observing them and how they communicated with me and with each other.

The Road To Discovering My Passion

A funny thing happened as I began this new journey—I became fascinated with how incredible cat communication and animal psychology are. The behaviors my cats had been displaying that I previously labeled as “bad” were now making perfect sense.

To learn more about other cats as well, I began pet sitting for friends so I could watch and learn about feline personalities and how they coexisted with others. As I became more familiar with the cats of my friends, I started understanding how their so-called misbehaviors were connected to the attitudes and personalities of their owners. So back to the bookstore I went to read up on human psychology and even marriage and family counseling. I was getting a good understanding of how family dynamics affect all members in the household—human, canine, feline, etc.

As my awareness grew, my relationship with my cats improved tremendously. By understanding what cats need emotionally, physically, and psychologically, it seemed as if I had learned a whole new language.

Friends began commenting on how incredible my cats were. They asked me to work with their cats as well. Word began spreading that I knew about cat behavior and I started getting calls from veterinarians. I also received more than my share of ridicule. Many people believed (and still believe 20 years later) cats to be untrainable. I became the joke among some of my non-cat friends, and as word spread about my abilities and I became more visible publicly, I even received a few death threats from cat haters.

My original career or day job was as a musician, so even though I was spending so much time working with cats, it hadn’t occurred to me to charge for my services since I had no credentials. As more and more calls came in though, I realized my true career was staring me in

The Behaviorist’s Road Less Traveled

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the face. It would certainly be a tough road but all I had to do was look at how happy my cats were now to see that the benefits far outweighed the disadvantages.

Devising a Career Plan

In order to call myself a behaviorist, I knew there was so much more to learn. I knew I needed some kind of medical background but I didn’t want to become a veterinarian. I became a veterinary technician instead, so I would have some understanding of the connection between illness and behavior. I also learned about pharmacology, laboratory procedures, how to interpret results, and what diagnostics were needed in order to diagnose certain behavior disorders. The busy clinic I worked for was also the official veterinarian for our local humane organization, so I was exposed to many cases of abuse, neglect, and horrific emergencies. I used that time to help those cats recover from their traumas from a behavioral standpoint. In my off hours I started doing behavioral work for many of the local shelters as well. Having that medical background plays a crucial role in my job as behavior consultant these days.

Life Today

When I’m not writing or lecturing, these days my time is spent doing individual house calls and shelter calls. My spare time is filled with keeping up on the latest in veterinary medicine. There’s no pleasure reading anymore—now my bedside table is stacked with veterinary journals. Vacations? Well, let’s just say that the only trips I make to warm, sunny locations are when a veterinary conference or book tour is scheduled there.

Even though the learning process through real-world experience is long and unconventional, it has tremendous rewards and benefits. Because I’ve walked in the troubled cat owner’s shoes, I feel I connect with them. Cat owners are less intimidated during a consultation because we can share similar experiences. Being self-taught, I try to offer the combination of expert and friend.

The downside of being self-taught is that you may never get real respect from some members of the veterinary community. This can actually be a blessing in disguise, because it will cause you to work your hardest at your profession, maintain your integrity and in general—know your stuff!

Many of the more traditional animal behaviorists work exclusively through in-clinic calls. With all due respect to their tremendous knowledge, I have never understood how you can effectively treat a complicated behavior crisis without seeing the home environment and all members of the family. That’s where I applaud all of us who are in the trenches with the cat owners every day.

I believe certain paths are placed before us for a reason. Some of us do best by following the traditional route and others are destined to follow that road less traveled. Use the IAABC as your companion and teacher as you follow your own path. Together we can support each other, maintain


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the highest standards, and provide the qualifications to coexist in this amazing field. I wish the IAABC had existed when I started out, but how lucky we all are to be a part of this association that will undoubtedly improve the lives of animals and humans.

Three Keys

Before I leave you, I want to share something that has been a strong source of inspiration for me and perhaps it will be for you as well. I am a fan of the motivational speaker and author John Maxwell. If you aren’t familiar with his books or tapes, I urge you to discover his work. One of the most important lessons I learned from him is that there are basically three keys to success. Here’s my very simplified version:

1) Find your passion

2) Do your best

3) Benefit others

If you don’t have a passion for your work, you will not succeed and you won’t be happy. Like me, you have already found your passion in animal behavior. Now it’s time to do your absolute best, represent this profession with the utmost integrity and ability, and then use what you know to benefit others. In the end, it doesn’t really matter how each of us got to this point; what really matters is that we hold those three keys in our hearts as we continue on the road.


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Reach for a Diversity of Animal Behavior KnowledgeBy Joanne Oliva-Purdy, PhD, CABC

I draw from at least four scientific fields of study when I analyze companion animal behavior problems and recommend treatments:

1) The study of behavior in the wild (ethology);

2) Psychological principles, such as learning theory and behavior analysis, which seem to hold true for many different animal groups as well as humans (comparative psychology);

3) Behavior specific to captivity (applied ethology);

4) The physiology of the species (zoology or veterinary medicine).

Working with animal caretakers to solve their problems draws on other fields, but here I am focusing only on the behavior of the animal. Companion parrot behavior is a specialty of mine, so I will give examples here to show how familiarity with these fields helps in analyzing companion parrot behavior.

Ethology helps answer questions like “Why does my parrot chew everything in reach?” (chewing a hole in a tree is normal nest building behavior) and “Why does my Quaker parakeet get so excited over twigs?” (Quakers are unique among parrots in that they build communal nests out of sticks). Using behavior analysis helps me determine why some behaviors appear, increase, or diminish (“He used to step up to my hand so consistently, but lately when I try to get him back in the cage so I can leave for work, he plays ‘keep away!’”). Behavior analysis also helps determine why a behavior such as screaming or biting increases, especially when it seems counterproductive for the bird, but often other fields of study also come into play. Ethology helps make some sense of why something is rewarding or punishing for a parrot. In this example, yelling at a parrot for screaming tends to increase the screaming behavior. To understand this phenomenon, it helps to know that parrots, like many social birds, set each other off when they vocalize, whether alarm calling, contact calling, or just expressing excitement. One starts and the others join in. So yelling at your parrot, instead of being the

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punishment we expect it to be, actually encourages screaming, besides rewarding the parrot with a reaction and some attention. In addition, “screaming,” or loud parrot vocalizations meant to be heard for great distances in the rainforest, is normal parrot behavior. On the other hand, excessive screaming in companion parrots is considered a behavior problem and can have very complicated causes. Parrots in captivity often scream from boredom and inattention. However, screaming also could be an indicator of some physical discomfort such as illness or fatigue from not getting the eight to ten hours of undisturbed sleep that most parrots need. So dealing with an excessive screaming behavior problem draws heavily on all four areas I mentioned. Knowing the physical needs of the parrot would tell you that covering the cage will often calm them down, but if it is too dark they can not see to eat or drink. For that and other reasons, covering the cage or putting the cage in a dark room as a treatment for screaming should only be done for short periods of time and as part of a larger program.

Another problem behavior that draws from all four fields is Feather Destructive Behaviors (FDB). This does not appear to be a normal behavior in the wild. (Wilson, in press) FDB are a number of exaggerated behaviors related to preening feathers. Normal preening is a skill that includes applying light pressure on the feather with the beak, manipulating it with the beak to clean it, and pulling it through the beak to “zip up” the barbs by getting the barbules to interlock. Some parrots go overboard and clip the feathers off, chew on them enough to damage them, or pull them hard enough to pull them out. The result is a ragged look that is closer to that of a half-plucked chicken than the pretty bird most parrot owners expect.1 Liz Wilson, parrot behavior consultant and CVT, has written on this subject and says, “Feather Destructive Behaviors appear to be what Cooper and Harrison call ‘a condition of captivity,’ (Cooper and Harrison, 1994) since an undamaged feather coat is compulsory for survival in the wild.” Feather destruction (including feather chewing, picking, clipping, or plucking) in captivity often is not a dangerous condition and tends to bother owners more than the birds. Nevertheless, it can be a baffling syndrome for veterinarians and behavior consultants to figure out. In some ways, it is like inappropriate elimination in dogs and cats: It may have physical causes but it may also be a behavior problem, and usually the result of the behavior problem (house soiling or a plucked bird) bothers the owners more than the pet.

Liz Wilson writes, “Under the category of feather destruction due to ‘abnormal’ behaviors are the following possible etiologies: [owner] control device, attention-getting device, boredom, stress, environmental change, psychological disturbances” (Wilson, in press). Ethology can help us understand what contributes to boredom and stress, and some psychological disturbances. Applied ethology (Kjaer, et al., 2004; Meehan, et al., 2003) and even human psychology can help with studies on obsessive behavior. Veterinary medicine is a large contributor to work on these problems (Rosenthal, 2004; Orosz and Delaney, 2003; Tudor, 1983). Since there are many physical contributors to feather destruction, it is important for the bird to be evaluated for various medical problems. According to Dr. Karen Rosenthal, “in addition to a careful physical exam and history, diagnostic testing that is recommended to rule out medical causes of Feather Destruction Syndrome include: Absolute minimum database: CBC, chemistries and plasma

Reach for a Diversity of Animal Behavior Knowledge

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electrophoresis (EPH). Further testing depends on the specific bird and how much the owner wants to spend (in no particular order):

• skin biopsy

• fecal analysis

• skin cultures and gram stains, and/or impression smear of the skin

• heavy metal assays

• radiographs

• bacterial cultures, skin and/or feather pulp

• specific testing for systemic problems such as aspergillus” (Rosenthal, 2004)

Behavior analysis can help determine if it is being used as a control or attention getting device. Liz Wilson discusses these causes:

As a control device, feather destruction is a powerful tool. Some people are convinced that feather destruction is a reflection on their caliber as owners and would consequently do anything to keep their parrots from damaging feathers. Naturally, a bird learns this quickly. Any time a wish is thwarted, they yank a feather in response, causing the owner to feel guilty and acquiesce to the bird’s demands. A young African grey [parrot] that boarded with the author used this technique whenever blocked from doing what it wanted. When not rewarded for this behavior while boarding, however, the behavior ceased and feathers regrew. The behavior resurfaced when the owners returned and renewed the reinforcement.

As an attention-getting device, FDB is extremely effective. Many owners lavish their birds with attention rewards whenever they catch their birds damaging feathers. Often these birds will visually seek out their owner, make eye contact, and then yank out a feather. In these two situations, owners blatantly reward feather destruction. As long as they consider their birds’ feather condition to be earth-shatteringly important, the behavior will continue.” (Wilson, in press)

There is some research into FDB (Meehan, et al., 2003; Orosz and Delaney, 2003; Van Hoek and King, 1997) but not enough to clearly point to the different causes and solutions for different parrots. Veterinarians and behavior consultants today are still left to test their own theories on the best way to diagnose and treat the problem. Many companion parrots alive today were captive bred and hand raised, so they did not have their parents to guide them in survival


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skills, whether for the wild or captive environment. Liz Wilson sees this as contributing to stress and psychological disturbances in these parrots. To counteract this, she advises the following: “By implementing a training program in which the bird learns to follow simple commands—such as Blanchard’s nurturing guidance training (Blanchard, 1992)—owners establish clear behavioral limits, clearly delineating for the parrot its rank within the human flock. Clients who initiate training an out-of-control parrot in this manner comment frequently on how much calmer and happier the bird seems” (Wilson, in press). This part of the nurturing guidance training has some similarities to the “nothing in life is free” method often used with dogs to establish the owner as the one in control in a humane manner.

The assessment and treatment of companion animal behavior problems calls for attention to many of the scientific fields of study that fall under the heading of animal behavior. No one of them has all the answers needed to give our clients the best picture of their problem and a solution. Rigidly adhering to one or the other is doing our clients a disservice. I have not included the fields of psychology focusing on the animal’s caretaker. Studies on the human-animal bond and methods of counseling, among others, will also help us in our work. I hope that animal behavior consultants continue to learn as they practice and to draw from these and other relevant fields in their work. For those studying to be consultants, I encourage you to seek knowledge in these fields, whether by taking courses or by other methods, as well as in those subjects that are useful for counseling, in order to have a wide range of knowledge to draw on to best serve our clients.

References

Blanchard S. (1992) Phobic feather plucking. The Pet Bird Report 2(4):4-6Cooper, J.E. and Harrison, G.J. (1994) Dermatology. In: Ritchie B.W., Harrison G.J. & Harrison L.R. (eds). Avian medicine: Principles and application. Lake Worth, FL: Wingers Pub,:607- 633.Kjaer, J.B., Hjarvard, B.M., Jensen, K.H., Hansen-Møller, J. & Larsen, N. (2004) Effects of haloperidol, a dopamine D2 receptor antagonist, on feather pecking behaviour in laying hens. Applied Animal Behaviour Science. 86(1-2), 77-91.Meehan, C.L., Millam, J.R. and Mench, J.A. (2003) Foraging opportunity and increased physical complexity both prevent and reduce psychogenic feather picking by young Amazon parrots. Applied Animal Behaviour Science. 80:71-85.Orosz, S.E., Delaney, C.J. (2003). Self-injurious behavior (SIB) of primates as a model for feather damaging behavior (FDB) in companion psittacine birds. Proceedings of Avian Specialty Advanced Program in conjunction with the Annual Conference of Association of Avian Veterinarians. 39-50.Rosenthal, K. (2003) Diagnostics: PLEASE let there be an answer. Proceedings of Avian Specialty Advanced Program in conjunction with the Annual Conference of Association of Avian Veterinarians. 25-30.Tudor, D.C. (1983) Mycotic infection of feathers as the cause of feather-pulling in pigeons and psittacine birds. Veterinary Medicine and Small Animal Clinician. 78(2): 249-253.


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Van Hoek, C.S. and King, C.E. (1997) Causation and influence of environmental enrichment on feather picking of the crimson-bellied conure (Pyrrhura perlata perlata). Zoo-Biology. 16(2): 161-172.Wilson, L.(in press) A Non-Medical Approach To Feather Destructive Behaviors. Proceedings of the North American Veterinary Conference, Orlando FL, 2005.

NOTES

1. Examples can be found on the web site of The Gabriel Foundation: http://www.thebirdbrain.com/html/FeatherPicking.cfm.


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CASE STUDY: Don’t Leave Me!

By Tom Van Winkle, MBA, CABC

Dawson is a four-year-old, neutered male Dachshund who lives with Steve and Cindy

Smith. He has no known medical problems.

Past History

Dawson was purchased from a pet store chain at the age of twelve weeks. Until the

age of two years, Dawson lived with Steve and Cindy as well as Cindy’s mother and her two

Dachshunds, one of whom was Dawson’s sibling. Dawson got along well with these dogs and

other dogs he encountered. The Smiths report that during this period he did not display any

inappropriate behavior and appeared to be a happy dog.

At two years old, Steve, Cindy, Dawson, and Dawson’s sibling moved in with Cindy’s aunt.

Living in this house were two larger dogs. One was aggressive toward the Dachshunds and at

one point attacked Dawson. The Smith’s don’t recall the specific circumstances surrounding the

attack, but attributed it to their belief that the other dog just “didn’t like Dawson.” Dawson was

not injured, but he was shaken up and avoided the other dog.

To keep the Dachshunds safe, they were put in a laundry room when no one was home. At

this point, Dawson showed his first signs of anxiety when his family was preparing to leave. They

say they had to force him into the room and he soiled in their absence.

Steve and Cindy noted that at about the same time, Dawson became aggressive toward

other dogs while walking on leash. Today, as soon as he sees another dog during a walk, Dawson

becomes increasingly agitated and vocal as the other dog approaches. If the other dog passes

within 15 feet, Dawson will lunge. It takes him about 30 seconds to calm down after the other

dog has passed.

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After about six months in the aunt’s home, the family moved again, this time to live with

Mr. Smith’s mother. The Smiths lived with her for about eight months; to keep the house clean,

Dawson was put in a crate when no one was home. At first, Dawson did not object to being

kept in a crate, but he grew progressively more distressed by the confinement and on several

occasions he injured himself trying to get out.

Present History

The family recently moved to their current home, where it is just the three of them, Steve,

Cindy, and Dawson. The Smiths had hoped the move would resolve Dawson’s problems, but

Dawson continues to show signs of separation anxiety and dog aggression.

If left out of the crate, Dawson urinates on anything with his family’s smell—bed, shirts,

couch; otherwise, he is generally not destructive. They have locked him in a washroom, but

he tries to get under the door and has injured his nose. They have moved him to a crate, but

he still urinates and tries to get out. Even though he has favorite toys, having them present

throughout the day has not calmed him at all. Additionally, treat-filled toys have been tried, to

no avail.

Steve and Cindy report that as soon as they leave, they can hear Dawson barking and trying

to escape his crate. The few times they have returned immediately to check on him, Dawson

was trying to get out of the crate and appeared very anxious. The Smiths further report that

Dawson will often refuse to eat in the morning as his family prepares for work, and becomes

visibly anxious as they get ready to go. The signs of his anxiety are increased activity and a

generally “nervous” demeanor; Dawson also follows his family around the house. The couple

leaves for work around 7 a.m. and returns between 4 p.m. and 5 p.m.

Dawson loves to play with toys, goes for long walks in nice weather, and appears to be in good physical condition. He knows how to sit, stay, and lie down on command and will hold a stay for up to 30 minutes.

Curiously, Dawson does not always remain in the same room as the Smiths when they are home. He often sleeps in their bedroom when they are elsewhere in the house.

The couple spoke with an obedience trainer and their veterinarian about Dawson’s


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problems. There was no apparent physical condition which might cause this behavior. The Smiths were told to start Dawson on Clomicalm and to try to desensitize him to being alone by leaving the house for a minute at a time and then progress to longer periods of absence. The Smiths report that the Clomicalm did not help very much, but also admitted that they were not diligent in their efforts.

Evaluation

A client questionnaire and in-person interviews were used to assess Dawson’s behavior. The conversation centered on Dawson’s separation anxiety, as that is the behavior of greatest concern. We briefly discussed Dawson’s dog aggression (intra-species aggression); however, the Smiths wanted to concentrate on the separation anxiety, as they are able to control Dawson’s exposure to other dogs.

During the consultation we discovered additional pertinent points. First, Dawson does not like linoleum flooring. This is not contributing to the problem at hand; however, we found a way to use his dislike during treatment. Second, Dawson is actually becoming anxious long before Steve and Cindy leave the house. He apparently picks up on cues that they will be leaving and experiences anticipatory anxiety, starting up to an hour before they actually depart.

After our initial meeting, Steve and Cindy mimicked their morning routine to determine when Dawson begins to show signs of anxiety. They discovered that Dawson is actually becoming nervous as soon as the alarm clock goes off in the morning. As Steve and Cindy go about their morning routine, Dawson’s anxiety level appears to increase.

Family Dynamics

The Smiths are a young couple in their late twenties and are both employed full-time. They do not have children at this point, but would like to start a family in the next few years. They are home almost every night during the week, but will go to dinner with friends occasionally on the weekends. They appear to be very dedicated to Dawson and truly want to help him.

We established a good relationship during our conversation and the Smiths listened attentively. We talked at length about why they felt they would be able to stick to a new behavior-modification plan when they admit they had trouble executing one in the past. They described themselves as having been in a state of denial and hoping for a quick fix. When that didn’t happen, they gave up. I explained that separation anxiety is a difficult behavior problem to resolve under any circumstances, but it is made much harder in cases where no one is home during the day, as is the case here. In other words, Steve and Cindy will have to leave Dawson alone as they are trying to help him through his anxiety. Consequently, I explained, Dawson might take two steps forward and one step back, because his anxiety would be triggered every time they left for work.


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The Smiths understood this and said they were ready to work on their dog’s problem. I asked what they would do if Dawson’s separation anxiety did not improve and they said they would live with it. Dawson is part of their family and will be for life.

This dedication was an obvious plus for Dawson; however, the history of an abandoned attempt at behavior modification worried me. We talked at length about ways to stay diligent in their efforts and not to give up again. I explained that the Smiths would need to look for small victories rather than concentrate solely on the big payoff. For example, a small victory would be a reduction in Dawson’s anxiety as the couple prepared to leave for work. We would look to see Dawson eating his breakfast, being less active, or not following the Smiths from room to room. This idea seemed to sit well with them.

Management and Modification of Dog Behavior: Interventions

Dawson needed to learn to calm himself down when he was anxious. The starting point for training would be to identify the cues that told Dawson the Smiths were leaving the house. As Dawson picked up on these “leaving” cues, they were to begin calming exercises, consisting of obedience commands. For instance, if Dawson began showing signs of anxiety when the alarm went off, then he should be told to sit as soon as the alarm sounded, and given a treat for compliance. He should remain in the sit until he appeared calm. Signs to look for in Dawson include a relaxed body posture, relaxed ears, and normal breathing pattern with his mouth slightly open, but not panting. This type of exercise would have to be done with each cue to which Dawson was reacting. Also, the Smiths might discover as they “de-stressed” one cue that a second cue, originally less salient to them, was also present. (For example, Dawson might have been reacting not only to the sound of the alarm clock, which was salient to the Smiths, but also to the couple’s habitual movements as the alarm woke them. Only when Dawson was no longer becoming visibly anxious at the sound of the alarm could they see that he was also responding to those movements.)

Additionally, the “leaving routine” would have to be jumbled up so that Dawson would be less able to predict the Smiths’ departures.

Finally, even though Dawson remained calm when the couple was not in the same room as he, as long as they were home, they were to practice putting Dawson in a “stay” and then leaving the room. As Dawson learned to remain calm, they would progress to shutting the door with Dawson in the room, and they would repeat this process with all the rooms in the house.

Separation anxiety treatment is always difficult, but as I had told the Smiths, the need to leave Dawson alone during treatment exacerbated the difficulty. In addition, Dawson was injuring himself or soiling inside when left alone. We needed to find a way to keep him safe and as comfortable as possible when he was alone at home.


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To accomplish this, we used his fear of linoleum. An 8-foot-long hallway runs between the Smiths’ living area and their garage door. The hallway floor is linoleum, while the living area is carpeted. Dawson has jumped over and through baby gates in the past, so simply gating him in the hallway would not work. Instead, Dawson’s bed and a dog litter box were put at the end of the hallway near the door to the garage. This area would be Dawson’s safe haven. Because he does not like to walk on linoleum, we hoped that he would not cross the floor to go through the gate. Instead, he would stay in his bed. In the litter box, we placed a piece of a shirt belonging to one of the Smiths; this was to encourage Dawson to use the litter box as he became anxious. I recommended hiring a pet walker to come in once or twice a day when the Smiths were at work. This person would need to understand Dawson’s problem so that he or she did not add to Dawson’s anxiety, but we hoped that the walker’s visit might comfort Dawson. In addition, it might be helpful for the walker to vary the time of his or her arrival, so that Dawson wouldn’t know how long he was going to be left alone. Unfortunately, the Smiths rejected the idea of letting someone come into their home. Doggy daycare was not an alternative because of the cost, nor did the Smiths think that a friend or relative would be willing to help.

Finally, I recommended that Dawson be put on anti-anxiety medication to help him remain calm. I discussed the possibility with Dawson’s veterinarian, who prescribed amitriptyline.

Outcome of the Case

Dawson’s separation anxiety has not yet resolved, but the Smiths report seeing progress. They report that Dawson has not injured himself since he was put in the hallway with the litter box and he appears to be much calmer in the mornings, especially right after the Smiths wake up. Dawson is showing progress by remaining calm when the Smiths wake up, but he hasn’t progressed yet to the point of being calm enough to eat in the mornings. It was pointed out that getting Dawson calm enough to eat his breakfast would be a good short-term goal for the Smiths.

Most behavior problems manifest themselves when someone is present to address them; separation anxiety cases are some of the most difficult to work with precisely because the severest anxiety appears when the dog is alone. Often these cases call on all our creativity. In Dawson, we had a dog who injured himself when confined and alone, yet who had to be left alone. Thanks to his fear of linoleum, we found a way to keep him safe without allowing him to roam the house where he would urinate and defecate.

A second insight from this case is that the families of pets with separation anxiety need help in recognizing small victories. They concentrate so hard on the future day when they can leave their beloved pet alone without fear of them hurting themselves or the home that they get discouraged when progress is slow. It is important to tell clients frankly that treatment is likely to take a long time so that their hopes are not raised and then dashed. In addition, helping them see progress improves their chance of success.


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CASE STUDY: A Case of Apparently Unprovoked Aggression in a Dog

by Debbie Winkler, CPDT, CABC

In 1998, I received a call from a family who had adopted a dog from our local shelter. The dog was described as the “perfect” dog, but, from time to time and apparently unprovoked, he would rush someone, teeth bared and snarling. While he had not connected with skin yet, he tore clothes on occasion. Aggressive episodes had occurred even with people well known to the dog.

My first reaction was to suggest they return the dog to the shelter. I knew the shelter might opt for euthanasia, but at the time I thought it best to spare the family this decision. The excellent outcome of this case has taught me not to jump to such conclusions.

This family had grown to love the dog and rejected my suggestion to return him. They insisted that if I spent just a few minutes with him, I would be equally smitten and would want to help. Accordingly, we made an appointment for evaluation and counseling.

The dog was a recently neutered Boxer mix, approximately 3 years old; he had been turned in as a stray. I did not record the length of his stay in the shelter, but it was brief. The dog was not a resource guarder and the shelter veterinarian had noted on the adoption papers that during the exam, blood draw, vaccination, and preparation for neutering, the dog exhibited friendly, outgoing behavior.

The dog greeted me with play bows, then grabbed a ball that was on the floor and pranced around with it. He was very playful with the children, who were running around the house, playing tug, rolling on the floor with him, and practicing “give me your paw” over and over again. In short, he appeared happy, friendly, and well adjusted; what the bare facts can’t convey is that I can only call this dog one of the cutest mixed breeds I have ever seen.

The family was a large one, with six children ranging in age from three to 17 years. The children appeared to be well-behaved and were not rough or abusive in their play with the dog. Both adults and all of the children concurred in their description of the dog. He was playful; he came when called, loved having his teeth brushed, enjoyed having his body brushed and rubbed, and was friendly with the family cat and a neighbor’s dog. Yet, sometimes, he would stare at someone he knew “as though he had never seen them before,” and rush toward them barking,

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growling, and occasionally snapping. He would bump them with his muzzle. At the same time, the family described his posture as “slinking and low” and his eyes as “wide and fearful.”

In evaluating the dog, I made prolonged eye contact; took food from him, even savory food such as pig ears; handled his entire body; made sudden movements, loud noises, and sudden loud noises; restrained him when he wanted to be loose; opened his mouth and played with his teeth; clipped his nails; and cleaned his ears. None of this elicited any problematic response. At a loss, I began to do ridiculous things, such as dragging him across the carpet by his hind legs and rolling him around. Still I got only playful responses.

Perplexed, I asked the owners to keep a journal, noting when the dog’s behavior changed and recording exactly what happened before the change. I also taught the family and the dog some basic skills, and accustomed the dog easily to a Gentle Leader™ head halter. The family began bringing him to class and also took advanced classes with another instructor and a tricks class that I taught.

A couple of months passed without incident; then, suddenly, the dog repeated the aggressive behavior. No one noted any difference between the situation in which the dog reacted and situations in which he was calm. I had seen the dog many times by this point, but had never witnessed the behavior. I consulted with the family’s veterinarian, who took X-rays and performed blood tests. All results were within normal range. A veterinary neurologist was consulted; my records show that an MRI or CT scan (which one is not noted) of the dog’s head was performed and that the report cited “no spectacular results.”1

I was at a total loss and began to think of the behavior as idiopathic—while it had a cause, and had meaning to the subject expressing it, that cause was obscure to human observers. But without identifying the cause, we could not treat the problem.

Finally, the dog exhibited the aggressive behavior toward me. It was summertime. The family had come for an agility class and I walked over to say hello to them and greet the dog. He very unexpectedly crouched low, growling, lunging, and snapping, then retreating. With knots in my stomach, I averted my gaze. Dumbfounded and frightened, I was concerned enough about the family to bring up euthanasia again. They would not hear of it, despite my fear for their safety.

I mentally reviewed the incident all day long and into the evening. Finally, just before I went to bed, it occurred to me that that day I had been wearing a hat. I could barely sleep, wondering if that was indeed the problem.

At 8:30 the following morning, I called the clients and asked whether the people against whom the dog aggressed had been wearing hats. Much to my dismay, no one could remember. I asked that someone put on a hat while I waited.


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Instantly, the mystery was solved; I could hear the dog’s reaction over the phone.

The treatment protocol below not only resolved the problem, but caused this dog to prefer people wearing hats to those not wearing them.

Systematic Desensitization

1. I had the family obtain 100 hats and place them all over the floor for a week.

The dog slinked around the house, growling at the hats, for several days. I recommended that the hats remain for two weeks, by which time the dog had stopped reacting to them.

Why did I choose to begin with so many hats? I was not attempting to “flood” the dog. I selected my starting point because of several factors. First, this dog had a problem with hats, not with people and not with more general fearfulness. Second, hats come in many shapes and sizes and can change someone’s appearance slightly or dramatically. To desensitize the dog to one hat at a time would have taken an extremely long time. Because the dog was, in general, so friendly and confident, we could work more quickly at the beginning.

2. I had each adult in the family put on a hat, toss a treat, and quickly remove the hat five times in a row, daily for a week. The dog began to relax and eat the treats.

3. Each person in the family over eight years of age was taught reward marking, using the word “yes.” This required four days.

4. Each person in the family over eight years of age was asked to put on a hat from the floor, each time they petted the dog, fed the dog, let the dog into the yard or back into the house, gave the dog a toy, or walked the dog. Also, since this dog enjoyed riding in the car, I requested that everyone accompanying the dog during the ride wear a hat.

At this point, the dog began to wag his tail and become excited any time anyone in the family picked up a hat.

5. Now was the time to begin to include friends and neighbors. We selected ten people: four were family members not living in the house and six were friends, five of whom were neighbors. I had asked the family to find people the dog was not very familiar with.

When I see a need to enlist the aid of others to help a dog, I tell families up front what we will need if we progress to that step. I asked this family to find more than the approximate number of people we needed, knowing they would get fewer and we could work with fewer. If I tell people I need ten helpers, they might find three. If I tell people they need 30 to 40 helpers,


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they will usually come up with eight to ten.

Finding neighbors and friends who will help out is the owner’s responsibility. I simply don’t know enough people to help out in every case, and I am concerned about legal liability. When I present a treatment protocol, I show the families what is involved and let them know that I will not do an incomplete program. I tell them that I cannot supply the people and ask them whether they can do so. If not, I suggest they take their dog to the closest veterinary school with a behavior department.

In this case I asked the owners to spend some time each day sitting in the living room with the dog on a leash, while a friend or family member entered through the front door, picked up a hat, put it on, tossed a treat, removed the hat, and left the house. Each helper did this five times in a row on his or her scheduled evening.

• The dog appeared to regress at this point. When the unfamiliar person put on a hat, he cowered and growled. However, the regression was short lived: we continued performing trials over the course of the day and the dog again improved dramatically.

• The dog stopped reacting fearfully and instead eagerly anticipated the treat the instant the person picked up the hat.

6. We began to work with these same helpers outside. We had them walk in different directions, wearing a hat, while the dog was being walked.

There were no incidents of growling or lunging toward anyone.

7. We began to repeat all of the preceding steps, very carefully, with the young children in the family.

The dog had no reaction to children in hats.

Throughout this program, I determined when to proceed to the next step based on the dog’s response to the current step. When the dog responded favorably (tail wagging and happy, rather than threatened) and maintained that behavior for a few days, I would add the next step.

At the completion of step seven, I believed the dog would no longer display the aggression toward people wearing hats, but I urged the family to continue wearing hats a few times a week, for just a few minutes, for the life of the dog. I remained in touch with the family for about a year and a half after we completed treatment, until they relocated in 2001. The dog remained stable.

This dog had somehow been conditioned to respond defensively to anyone wearing a hat. We


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used systematic desensitization and counter-conditioning to change that response. We certainly reduced the dog’s anxiety, yet it could be said that he remained sensitive to individuals wearing hats: that is, the dog actually began to prefer seeing someone wearing a hat. No better outcome can be imagined.

Conclusions

I learned valuable lessons from this case.

1. For what seemed an eternity, we had no idea what was causing the aggression. I truly thought that the family would not be safe with this dog and that the likelihood of a bite was high. Nowadays, except in extreme situations where the danger is clear and present, I recommend that dogs have the benefit of a formal evaluation from a qualified behavior consultant before the family makes most decisions of import to the dog.2

2. This case reaffirmed my belief in families’ infinite capacity to heal their own and to understand when a piece of the diagnostic puzzle might be missing.

3. When I see a case of episodic aggression, I search methodically for triggers. Detective work can pay off in important ways. All behavior that a dog exhibits makes sense, even if it only makes sense to the dog.

Notes

1 I usually ask a veterinarian to rule out potential medical causes for aggression, but in my experience the average owner balks at the thought of going to a university and having neurological scans performed. My normal practice is to speak with the vet and ask for the obvious thyroid tests, blood profile, and so on.

2 Such cases might include those where a bite is serious and there was little provocation, especially if the victim is a child. In one case, the dog broke through a glass window in order to bite someone knocking on the door. In another case, a dog escaped from a fenced yard and climbed over an even higher fence to reach another dog, on which it inflicted serious injuries.


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GOOD DOG A Program to Help Dog Owners Address Aggression

Problems in Dogsby Sue Alexander, CPDT, CDBC

Introduction

Families living with dogs with behavioral problems need assistance to overcome these difficulties. The Good Dog program incorporates management, desensitization, and counter conditioning, and training of new behaviors to address some of the multiple factors that influence the outcome of an aggression case. The program comprises three phases: (1) one-on-one work to address the family’s particular needs and develop basic handling skills; (2) the Good Dog Class (including a Walking Class), which offers clients a safe and controlled environment in which to practice the skills they have been working on at home; and (3) Group Dog Walks, in which dogs are reinforced for appropriate social interactions with one another. We support the families closely, providing three opportunities per week for contact with our staff. We also provide a venue for participants to share their experiences with one another during our group classes and off-leash dog walks.

Behavioral Profile of Dogs Suitable for the Program

The Good Dog Program is suitable for dogs who are confidently aggressive, fearfully aggressive, aggressive on arousal, fearful but not aggressive, and reactive to given stimuli but not aggressive.

Although we specifically address aggression in Good Dog, we recognize that other behavioral problems may also benefit from a systematic approach to their resolution. We accept dogs into this program who are aggressive toward people or other dogs, who are fearful, or who are highly reactive. Dogs known to have a hard mouth, or those whose bite hardness is unknown, may be muzzled during group outings initially, or may be integrated slowly into class as they are ready.

For our purposes, aggression may be defined as threats, postures, or harmful actions directed toward another individual. Aggressive behavior is a form of communication, by which

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the aggressor is attempting to establish greater social distance between himself and the target of the aggression.

Aggression may be the overt behavioral manifestation of fear, where the feared stimulus becomes the target of aggression. The dog may fear a number of stimuli, including but not limited to specific individual humans or dogs, specific types of dogs, specific groups of humans (infants, boys, girls, men, people in hats), inanimate objects such as trash containers, brooms, vacuums or shovels, and noises or flashing lights (thunder and lightning, for instance).

Arousal, too, may be manifested as aggression. The dog may exhibit aggression only when excited, as during play or training, or when presented with high-value stimuli such as toys, chew items, other dogs, or new people. We use the table in Appendix 1 (page 61) to describe the levels of arousal that we see. (At each level we give an example of a behavior typical of that level of arousal. It is important to note that “typical” does not mean the behavior correlates perfectly with the arousal level; a dog may be sitting yet be in level seven, frantic and verging on being dangerously out of control.)

The Components of the Good Dog Program

People find out about the Good Dog Program from their veterinarian, from brochures, or by word of mouth. (Table 1) When clients contact us, we assess the problem over the phone to determine whether their dog may be suitable for the program. If they seem suitable, a home visit is scheduled, and we begin working with the family.

Private Consultations

All clients begin with at least four weeks of private consultations, during which we visit the home and work with the family to implement a combination of management techniques, changing the dog’s motivation or emotional response to the target or stimulus of their aggression, and training alternative behaviors.

In the first meeting, we take a history. (Please see Table 1 for a summary of the information that we seek from each client.) Where possible, we prefer to include the veterinarian and get any relevant information from him or her. If we believe the behavior problem is medical in nature, we refer the client directly back to the veterinarian.

During the first meeting, we also educate the client about our three-pronged approach

GOOD DOG: A Program to Help Owners Address Aggression Problems in Dogs

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to dealing with behavior problems: management, changing the dog’s motivation, and training new behaviors. We also use a pamphlet to help the client understand factors that might contribute to a dog’s bite (Appendix 2, pages 62-63) and a chart that we have developed outlining arousal (Appendix 1, page 61). Finally, we fill out a bite history sheet if the dog has bitten anyone (Appendix 3, page 64). All clients are required to sign a waiver.

At the end of the first consultation we meet the dog and begin working with it. Clients are left with a homework sheet outlining ex-ercises to do with their dogs. Each client is provided with homework appropriate to the needs of the individual dog.

Each week, we meet privately with the client, usually in the home. We work initially on management and safety concerns, and help the family set up their situation so that they give the dog two weeks with no occurrences of the problem behavior. In our experience, this “vacation” from the problem can give the family and the dog time to relax. Families can take the opportunity to review their goals for their dogs and obtain some perspective regarding how they

Table 1. Information we want to glean when we take a history:

♦ Name, address and phone number

♦ Dog’s name

♦ Dog’s date of birth

♦ Dog’s breed if known/otherwise a physical description

♦ Dog’s weight

♦ Any significant illnesses

♦ Current health

♦ Other pets in the home

♦ Name, gender, and age of each person living in the home and any regular visitors

♦ What the dog is eating and how much

♦ Where the dog sleeps and any information we can get about the quality of the dog’s sleep

♦ Any medications the dog is taking

♦ Details of the dog’s regular exercise regime

♦ People friends of the dog

♦ Dog friends of the dog

♦ Training history (we are especially interested in early puppy history)

♦ Details of the problem behavior, when it began, any triggers for the dog, any mitigating circumstances that may have lead to the behavior problem, and details about what led the clients to decide to seek help

In our consults we record information on a palm pilot and use prompts to remind us what questions to ask. We have chosen the information to collect based on the questionnaires available in Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Small Animals by Overall (1997) and Handbook of Behavior Problems of the Dog and Cat by Landsberg, Hunthausen, and Ackerman (2nd ed., 2003)


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would like to live with their dogs over the long term.

We also work with the family early in the process to develop basic handling skills and control over their dog’s behavior. Clicker training methods are introduced in the first lesson to help the dog’s handlers identify and mark discrete desirable behaviors. We will use the clicker in Good Dog Class and in Walking Class, when dogs are asked to interact with soft eye contact. We use head halters and a balance leash (any six to ten-foot leash with a hook at each end; see sidebar for a picture of how the leash is attached to the halter and the collar on the dog. Generally we find that the Halti™ brand head halter gives the best control, because the nose band falls lower on the dog’s muzzle and gives better leverage should the client need to physically close the dog’s mouth. Where a Halti™ does not fit, a Gentle Leader™, Snoot Loop™, or other head halter may be used.

Optimally, the client will work one on one with us once a week for two to four months, as well as attending a weekly Good Dog Class and Group Dog Walks. The next step is for the client to see us less often one-on-one, but continue to attend the weekly Good Dog Class and Group Dog Walks for a further three to five months. As the family becomes more proficient at handling their dogs and the dog’s behavior improves, we again decrease our one-on-one involvement to a single meeting per month, although the client still attends the Good Dog Class and the Group Dog Walks. Typically, we expect dogs to complete the program in between eight months and a year, and be prepared to participate in a regular obedience class or live peacefully in the owner’s home without further weekly support.

The Good Dog Class

Ideally, the Good Dog Class includes four to seven dogs at any given time. The objective of this class is to enable owners to safely engage in desensitization exercises. Although we encourage family members to come together


Gaby ready to work in Good Dog Class, wearing a head halter, attached to a tether and leashed at her halter and collar.

Molly wearing a head halter and double ended leash attached to both her head halter and her collar.

Molly

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to this class, for safety and liability reasons we do not allow any children under the age of 16 to attend. We usually have one person in the family as our primary contact and handler, and other supporting members of the family are encouraged to attend as many activities as possible.

The intent of Good Dog Class is to always work sub-threshold; no discrete behaviors (such as sitting, lying down, or going through a tunnel, for instance) are taught. Clients are required to attend a first Good Dog Class without their dogs. Classes run continuously rather than in blocks of six or eight sessions; new clients may join at any time This format provides real benefits to the dogs: For instance, the dogs who are progressing are exposed to “rude” dogs as the latter begin the class, while those new, “rude” dogs receive exposure to dogs who are under better control.

We promote dogs to our Walking Class as they become ready for that level of work. Dogs are ready for Walking Class when they can cope with an hour of Good Dog Class while maintaining an arousal level below five and when outside of class they have learned to walk on a loose leash, sit or lie down and stay on leash, and tolerate a variety of stimuli in their environment without reaching an arousal level higher than five. Students will occasionally attend both classes at once as they transition between the phases of the program. Occasionally students will be asked to attend Good Dog Class for a few minutes after Walking Class, because doing so can be a very rewarding experience for a dog who has worked hard for an hour to cope with the stress of walking through an urban neighborhood. Classes are friendly, and some participants return to Good Dog Class to visit their friends and offer support.

Walking Class provides a safe context for students to practice their leash-walking skills in an urban neighborhood. We also teach students to teach their dogs how to sit or lie down and stay in the presence of unexpected stimuli such as you might find in an urban neighborhood.

Good Dog Classes proceed as follows. Clients leave their dog in their parked car and go into the training area. Either the consultant or one of the assistants will tell them when they can come into the classroom with their dog. Dogs come in one at a time and each family is assigned a place to work with their dog. Dogs are tethered to a secure object. (We meet outdoors during the summer, when we use eyebolts in the side of a building, a fence, and a large tree; indoors, we use bolts secured in the wall). The humans are provided with chairs, and visual barriers block off the line of sight between working stations. It is important to keep everyone safe and calm at all times, including and perhaps especially the dogs.


Chair with tether and visual barrier.

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Once all the dogs have arrived in class, the consultant and assistants will spend time with each of the families and their dogs. The consultant and assistants will approach dogs as they are able to handle close social contact, and coach students in classical conditioning techniques. As needed, one of the assistants or the consultant may handle an “uncle”—a confident, calm, trained dog—approaching the reactive dogs as they are desensitized to the proximity of dogs in class. (Uncle dogs are discussed further under “Group Dog Walks,” below.) As the reactive dogs develop the ability to remain calm in the presence of dogs behind barriers, the barriers are decreased or removed. We look for signs of calmness such as attention to the handler, a low rate of respiration, and a cessation of focus on the uncle dog to indicate when the dog is relaxed enough for barriers to come down. When a dog is able to remain calm and relaxed in Good Dog Class, the students will be instructed to begin asking their dogs to follow cues from their handlers in the presence of the uncle dog. Once the dog is able to follow cues from the handler with the uncle dog approaching and the assistants approaching, he or she is ready to be promoted to our Walking Class.

Dogs leave class each week much as they have arrived, one at a time and under control. If needed, an assistant will accompany a client to or from the car with the dog. At all times the goal is to keep everyone safe. If needed, the dog may be muzzled during class, although this is usually not necessary as all the dogs are secured with a tether. We sometimes choose to muzzle the dog between the car and the classroom area in the interest of safety for all concerned.

In the interest of keeping the dog as comfortable as possible, we use the least invasive muzzle necessary to keep everyone safe at all times. Grooming muzzles are often chosen because they allow the handler to treat the dog from the front and because they are similar to a head halter in design. We sometimes use basket muzzles for particularly powerful dogs. As the dog becomes safer, we graduate to a looser muzzle and then to a tight head halter, and finally to a normally fitting head halter.

Walking Class

When dogs are ready to move out of Good Dog Class, they are introduced carefully into Walking Class. Walking Class is similar to a regular obedience class in that all the dogs are working on discrete behaviors such as sitting, lying down, walking on a loose leash, going through or over agility equipment, and tricks. The activities carried out in Walking Class are dictated by the abilities and readiness of the dogs participating. The key differences between mainstream dog classes and Walking Classes are outlined in Table 2.

When dogs arrive for Walking Class, they go to a designated place and work on eye contact while the class members gather. Once all the dogs have arrived and everyone has had a chance


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to warm up to one another and the environment, the lesson begins. Usually, the instructor will lead the group through a quiet activity such as a group sit-stay on leash to allow the dogs to have a successful experience on leash. Next, the instructor may teach a new exercise

such as a trick (nose touch, paw touch, rolling on the side, rolling over, getting on a pause table), agility obstacle, or obedience move. When the instructor feels that all the dogs in the class are ready, he or she will lead the participants on a street walk in an urban neighborhood. If a particular dog is not yet ready for this level of activity, he will be assigned a place where he can watch the other dogs and his handler will work on desensitizing him through classical conditioning.

Street walking is conducted in a very structured manner, de-pending on the needs of the dogs attending class. The in-structor may have everyone walk in a group, walk one by one all in one direction around a block, or walk in either direction around the block so that members of the class can pass by one another. Dogs who are working on passing other dogs may pass handler to handler, dog to dog, close to one another or on opposite sides of the street.

After taking a street walk, the class gathers again and the instructor assigns homework activities based on what he or she has seen in class. Homework activities may include desensitization activities or obedience exercises, again depending on the needs of each dog. It is common for every dog in the class to have a different homework assignment.

All exercises in Walking Class are conducted so that the dogs remain below their thresholds


Table 2: Comparison of Walking Class with Mainstream Obedience Class

Walking Class

80% or more of the dogs in this class have ar-rived there via Good Dog Class and have some sort of significant behavioral problem. Our uncle dogs, handled by student dog trainers, make up the other 20% of dogs in the class.

Several activities are available for instructors to choose from.

New dogs may join the class at any time.

The curriculum is flexible to meet the needs of the dogs attending.

Dogs may attend Walking Class for the remain-der of their lives to maintain skills.

Dogs may leave class early if they are not com-fortable.

Mainstream Obedience Class

Dogs may or may not have a behavioral prob-lem, but behavioral problems are not expected.

A set weekly lesson plan is followed.

Classes usually have the same dogs from week to week.

The curriculum and learning goals are set and independent of the needs of the dogs enrolled.

Dogs usually finish a class and move to a more advanced class.

Dogs are normally expected to habituate to any stimulus in class that might cause them stress.

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for reacting with aggression. Because of the added risks of working in public, dogs must have already attained a high degree of comfort with their environment and the handlers must be well prepared to deal with any eventuality that may occur on the street.

Group Dog Walks

Group Dog Walks are organized, off-leash dog walks that take place on local hiking trails. We choose our locations with an eye to avoiding dogs who are not a part of our social group. Dogs on the group walk may be in any of various stages of the Good Dog Program; also participating are the uncle dogs who share their lives with one of the consultants or assistants. We meet at the trailhead in cars. Where necessary, dogs are muzzled before they start on the walk. Dogs are taken out of the cars in an orderly fashion and remain on leash if need be during the initial excited greetings. For a few dogs, this activity is far too arousing and would result in dangerous interactions even on muzzle; we encourage these dogs’ owners to attend with another dog or without any dogs.

Uncle dogs are an important element of the program. An uncle dog is an adult dog who is fluent in inter-dog social relationships, who has been seen to successfully decrease the arousal of other dogs during play, and who has enough training that he can be reliably called in or will reliably lie down in position at a distance. We have found that neutered males are the most common uncle dogs, although we suspect that unneutered males may have a special role to play. We rarely encounter unspayed females and have never used one as an uncle dog in our program. A very few spayed females work well as uncle dogs. (See ENDNOTE, p. 55)

It is vital that uncle dogs be continually socialized with dogs who do not have behavior problems, in order to continue to support their special social skills. Uncle dogs are reinforced liberally for making the correct choices when interacting with all dogs, and particularly during Group Dog Walks with dogs with behavior problems.

The benefits of walking in a group are manifold for both the dogs and the clients. The dogs have opportunities to practice good behaviors that they have learned in the course of the private sessions and to interact with dogs who will behave predictably. The consultant and assistants will intervene as necessary and interrupt behavior that might escalate into aggression. They are also able to coach the people participating on the walks and teach them safe methods of intervention; they “split” between two dogs who appear to be getting highly aroused, they provide alternative activities, and they continue moving the group along. (We have found that we see fewer interactions between dogs that may escalate to an aggressive incident if we keep moving than if we stand in one location.)


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Everyone on this walk uses the same protocol for greeting dogs, requiring them to sit before getting any touch, treats, or other attention; this benefits dogs who are shy with people or who might jump up to greet.

People who participate in our walks benefit by being able to discuss their own dog’s behavior, ask questions of the consultant and assistants in an informal manner, and interact with each other and the dogs in an informal way.

During our walk, dogs are permitted to explore and interact with one another as they wish, provided that they are not becoming highly aroused. We find that although chase games are often exciting for dogs and interesting to watch, they often result in aggression when one or another of the dogs becomes either highly aroused or frustrated with the game. There is a difference between chasing in fun and frantic chasing; we encourage the former while interrupting the latter.

Interactions between dogs that become tense, brittle, or highly aroused are defused by splitting between the dogs (a human walks between the dogs and stays there until the dogs disengage), catching and leashing dogs, and using Jean Donaldson’s protocol (Fight!, Kinship Communications, 2004) by which a warning signal is called out and the dog has the opportunity to make a better choice; if the dog chooses to disengage, we click and then treat all the dogs, and if the dog doesn’t disengage, we use a conditioned negative punisher (the phrase “too bad”) and leash the dog for thirty seconds to three minutes, after which we permit him to return to play. Because these walks are typically attended by seven to ten dogs and six to twelve humans, the freshly released dog often finds another dog to interact with and has an opportunity immediately to make better behavioral choices.

The Group Dog Walk usually lasts between forty-five minutes and an hour, and we cover between two and four kilometers during this time. We make a point of stopping three to five times to call the dogs in or ask them to lie down at a distance. With novice dogs, especially dogs who do not yet have a reliable recall, the “call in” serves to reinforce their recall skills. For dogs who have no recall whatsoever, the act of having all the handlers call in, leash up, and feed their dogs often helps these dogs to make their very first recalls in an informal situation. If a dog will not return to the handler when cued, the other dogs on the walk are restrained and one of the uncle dogs is permitted to play with the dog who will not come when called. Then the uncle dog is called in and reinforced. Often this will entice the other dog in and allow us to reinforce him and release him to play again. This can be repeated as often as necessary in order to teach the novice dogs to come when called and establish a history of coming, being put on leash, and being released to play again.

Dogs who are specifically aggressive on leash often have better social exchanges if they have the chance to play with a group of dogs before being required to walk on leash. For these


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dogs, we may keep them on leash for a few minutes after the dogs are released from the group recalls, reinforcing heavily. As the dogs are ready, we begin to put all the dogs on leash for short periods of time, walk together, and then let the dogs off one by one.

A few words are in order about the fact that dogs are not leashed during Group Dog Walks. We are encouraging social behavior, and we believe that there would be significant danger to the dogs if they were to become tangled in a leash during play. We walk in areas where the dogs cannot get directly to a roadway. Most of these areas are abandoned rail beds that have been converted to trailways where a road crosses the trail once every two kilometers, and the trail is bordered on either side by farmland. By changing locations for the dog walk and by keeping the group moving along, we prevent dogs from establishing patterns of behavior involving resource guarding of particular locations (especially entry to bodies of water) or becoming so familiar with a location that they feel confident enough to leave the area and explore farther afield.

ENDNOTE: I have personally seen a number of intact adult male dogs who have had an extraordinary ability to smooth out interdog encounters. I suspect that, as with humans, there is a special role for mature male dogs in the lives of younger members of the species, particularly those who are just on the verge of social maturity. My suspicion is that with so many male dogs neutered in today’s society we rarely see a “normal” male-other dog relationship. If, as has been suggested, the decrease in aggression between males who have been neutered is a result of other dogs perceiving those males as pseudo-females (Dunbar I., video, Dog Aggression: Fighting, 1998, James & Kenneth Publishers), then the role of intact males may be to induce other dogs to interact differently than they might with an intact or spayed female. Frequently, I have seen intact males elicit appeasement behaviors from other dogs without overtly “acting” in any way. I suspect that this may be in part due to pheromones that they emit. I also suspect that there may be a role for intact males in facilitating participation in “adult” activities as young pups hit adolescence.

Case Study

Date of First Consultation: October 27, 2003

Dog: Molly, female spayed, 1.5-year-old dog of unknown heritage, approximately 60 poundsPresenting Problem: Interdog aggression, both on and off leash, reacting to dogs passing by the home when visible through the living room window by barking and lunging at the window and racing around the homeDuration of Problem: Molly came from a shelter in the Toronto area. She began to exhibit the problem behaviors within the first two weeks of living with her current family. Molly’s history is unknown and she was adopted as an adult.Feeding: Feeding Canidae, 2.5 cups per day (she currently eats about 2 cups per day)


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Exercise: 1-hour walks daily on a long line where she can wander and runSleep: When first adopted, Molly was isolated in the basement at night. She is currently given the run of the house at night but chooses to sleep in the basement alone. During the day, Molly will sleep in her dog bed in the living room or wherever the family is. Molly also likes to sleep out of doors, basking in the sun. Her sleep seems to be deep and undisturbed.Previous Training: Spent one round of classes at a local training school where they worked on systematic desensitization with minimal results. Worked with a local veterinarian, who muzzled her and then introduced her to several different dogs. Initial greetings were videotaped and the video was provided. On video, we could see that Molly was excited at seeing other dogs and when let off leash charged them and bowled them over. After about ten minutes of posturing, snarling, and other inappropriate social behavior, she would back off and interact more appropriately. Molly will sit, lie down, and usually walk on a loose leash. She had no recall when she started the Good Dog Program.Health: Molly is in good health and has had no major illnesses over the past year.Family Members: Molly is the only animal in her home. She lives with Janet, an adult woman, and Bruce, an adult man. Janet is Molly’s primary caregiver.Other People: Molly is friendly to all people.Other dogs: Molly did not have any other dog friends before starting the Good Dog Program.

The history that follows is not strictly chronological, because private work, Good Dog Class work, and Group Dog Walks overlap in time.

Private Consultations

I met with Janet and Bruce for about a month. Initially we worked on management, avoiding triggering Molly by blocking her access to the living room window, and choosing times to walk her when she would be unlikely to encounter other dogs. Any time that Molly’s arousal rose above four (see Appendix 1, page 61), Bruce and Janet were to intervene and ask Molly to lie down. At the end of two months, I began working with Janet alone to classically condition Molly to associate dogs passing the home with food treats tossed on the floor. We also worked on her ability to tolerate dogs on leash and in small social groups using only dogs who would tolerate her poor greetings if she were to become aroused.

We worked hard to make certain that Molly never engaged in her lunge-and-bark routine on greeting, and we let her off lead to play with other dogs only after she had calmly greeted them on leash. Through classical conditioning, we were able to change Molly’s greeting pattern so


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that she was able to stay in control of her behavior. We also used a clicker to mark when Molly made soft eye contact with a dog she was about to meet.

At the end of about the third month, Molly was introduced to a larger group of dogs off lead. Any time Molly’s arousal reached six, we would call her back and ask her to sit and then we would feed her and release her. The quality of Molly’s greetings improved to the point where she was able to recognize dogs she had met on leash and socially interact with them without any untoward incidents. Janet was somewhat apprehensive about Molly’s potential to harm another dog, so we kept Molly on her muzzle for the first ten to fifteen minutes of most off leash dog-dog interactions for the first eight months even though Molly had never actually caused any damage to any other dog.

About the fifth month, we began to work with Molly on walking in urban neighborhoods, using classical conditioning to teach her to associate the dogs who approach her on lead with food treats. Janet has also taught Molly to heel formally with constant eye contact to help Molly learn an alternative behavior to barking and lunging toward other dogs. Although Molly generally appears to be more relaxed about other dogs, when she is aroused it would sometimes appear as though she does not know what to do when she passes other dogs. At these times, Molly will engage in some barking and lunging and some conflicted approaches and retreats, reminiscent of her earlier behavior but at a lesser intensity

At the end of eight months, Molly boarded with me in my home while Janet went on vacation. During this time, Molly became comfortable enough with the dogs in my house (she had walked with these dogs weekly or more often for the past six months) that we were able to integrate her into our home. She spent considerable time loose with the other dogs in the house or the yard and went on Group Dog Walks with these dogs and others during her time boarding with me.

Molly continues to improve in her ability to interact with dogs, and Janet meets with me every two to three weeks to support her efforts in modifying Molly’s aggression toward other dogs.

Good Dog Class

Bruce and Janet attended Good Dog Class without Molly for one week to learn about how we proceed in class. Molly came to Good Dog Class from her second week in the program on. Initially, she came to class for a very short period of time to allow her to have a successful experience. Over time, Molly was able to join the class for a longer and longer period of time until she was able to attend for the full hour. Initially, Molly attended our evening Good Dog Class but when we started an afternoon Good Dog Class Janet switched in favor of the smaller


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class. During class, Janet shared her frustrations with other class members and was the source of much inspiration to new students, particularly as she become one of the longtime participants.

Group Dog Walks

Janet began to join our Group Dog Walks without Molly at the beginning of about the third month. By the beginning of the fourth month, Molly was ready to participate. At the Group Dog Walk, Molly met not only the dogs she had been walking with during her private lessons but also some additional dogs. For the first two months, Molly was muzzled at all times during the walk. Over this time, some dogs joined our walk and others left, but a core of six dogs belonging to the consultant and assistants has remained constant. Molly now tolerates new dogs on the walk admirably and rarely engages in any barking and lunging. Molly is slightly bossy and will occasionally bully another dog, but usually she prefers to explore the environment in the company of the other dogs without necessarily interacting closely with them. Occasionally Molly will engage in a game of chase with another dog on the walk; we will permit this so long as her arousal level stays below six. Molly’s recall and down at a distance are coming along nicely and she is often the first dog to arrive when we call dogs in for reward and release. Molly understands the protocol of a warning signal and will often break off if her arousal is rising and we are able to mark a moment where she can make a choice to self-regulate her behavior. Molly is more socially adept with dogs than with bitches, and we are now working on Group Dog Walks to address this.

Currently Molly attends the afternoon Good Dog Class and the evening Walking Class.

Notes and Perspective

Janet has invested an extraordinary amount of time in Molly’s success. Molly is now able to participate in most Group Dog Walks without her muzzle, she makes dog friends cautiously, and she is beginning to be able to walk through her neighborhood with grace and ease. Molly and Janet have participated in a tracking workshop, and they regularly have coffee in our local city square. Molly will likely always have to participate in some sort of organized dog activity, but we expect that Janet will need less and less support over the coming months provided she continues to participate in walks or classes on a regular basis.


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Appendix 1

Arousal

The degree to which an animal is aroused dramatically affects what he will do. If you want to train your dog, he must be sufficiently aroused to offer behaviors and to learn. If you have a dog with problems sur-rounding aggressive behavior, often you only see those behaviors when the dog is significantly aroused. Recognizing what level your dog is at will help you when you are changing your dog’s behaviors because you can learn how to influence the level of arousal that your dog is experiencing.

Appendix 2

The material in this brochure is drawn from information in The Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson (1996, Berkeley: James & Kenneth Publishers) and Dogs: A Startling New Understanding of Canine Origin, Behavior & Evolution by Lorna and Raymond Coppinger (2001, New York: Scribners). It is intended to be used during a consultation and provide the consultant with a tool to guide clients through the process of understanding normal dog agonistic behavior and the triggers that might predict a bite in their dog.

Copyright Sue Alexander, 2002

Level Description

10 So far out of control that the owner cannot communicate with the dog

9 Dangerously out of control, but can still be restrained

8 Out of control but will still respond to a very high value stimulus

(e.g.: click, conditioned negative reinforcer, certain noises, perhaps touch)

7 Frenzied Activity

6 Charging, lunging, running

5 Excited movement; play, training activities

4 Purposeful walking

3 Wandering around, low level exploratory behavior

2 Resting, awake and alert but not moving around

1 Asleep

0 Coma/death


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DOGS

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Info

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Sue

Alexa

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519-

826-

5315

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tha

t th

eir

dog

won’t

bit

e. A

nd

for

the

mos

t pa

rt, t

hey

are

righ

t, t

heir

dog

won

’t bi

te

at t

he v

ery

mom

ent

they

sa

y th

at.

The

fact

rem

ains

ho

weve

r th

at e

very

dog

WIL

L bi

te, j

ust

depe

ndin

g up

on t

he

situ

atio

n.

To d

eter

min

e th

e ri

sk o

f a

dog

biti

ng, y

ou n

eed

to k

now

a lit

tle

bit

abou

t th

e do

g in

qu

esti

on.

Wha

t ar

e th

is d

og’s

trig

gers

? H

ow m

any

trig

gers

ar

e th

ere?

Has

the

dog

ev

er b

itte

n so

meo

ne b

efor

e?

Is t

he d

og f

earf

ul?

How

ex

pres

sive

of

disc

omfo

rt is

th

e do

g? H

ow r

eact

ive

is t

he

dog?

Dog

s be

have

pre

dict

ably

If a

dog

is g

oing

to

bite

, he

is g

oing

to

go t

hrou

gh a

pre

dict

able

seq

uenc

e of

be

havi

ors

just

bef

ore

he b

ites

. A

t th

e be

ginn

ing

of t

he s

eque

nce

is s

omet

hing

ca

lled

orie

ntin

g. W

hen

a do

g or

ient

s on

som

ethi

ng, h

e is

not

icin

g it

. U

sual

ly

we w

ould

cal

l the

obj

ect

or p

erso

n or

ac

tivi

ty t

hat

the

dog

orie

nts

on t

he

trig

ger.

Onc

e th

e do

g no

tice

s th

e tr

igge

r, h

e wi

ll fr

eeze

, or

indi

cate

his

di

scom

fort

in s

ome

othe

r wa

y (d

ogs

may

we

ave,

dro

p th

eir

head

s or

pul

l the

ir

whis

kers

flat

to

thei

r fa

ces;

eac

h do

g wi

ll be

have

a li

ttle

dif

fere

ntly

). T

he

next

thi

ng t

hat

a do

g wi

ll do

is t

o gr

owl.

Th

is is

the

war

ning

tha

t so

met

hing

is

goi

ng t

o ha

ppen

. Gr

owlin

g m

ay b

e ve

ry q

uiet

or

subt

le.

Aft

er a

dog

has

gr

owle

d, h

e wi

ll lu

nge

or s

nap.

Thi

s pr

ecur

sor

to b

itin

g m

ay b

e ve

ry q

uiet

or

very

noi

sy, b

ut is

usu

ally

ver

y ve

ry f

ast.

A

nd t

he fi

nal s

tage

of

cour

se is

whe

n a

dog

mak

es c

onta

ct w

ith

his

teet

h on

the

ta

rget

or

bite

s.

A v

ery

com

mon

pro

blem

in d

ogs

is

that

han

dler

s wi

ll ph

ysic

ally

pun

ish

or

“cor

rect

” the

dog

if h

e gr

owls

. D

ogs

thus

tre

ated

oft

en le

arn

to s

kip

the

grow

l pha

se o

f th

e se

quen

ce a

nd s

kip

ahea

d to

the

nex

t st

ep.

For

this

rea

son,

it

is v

ery

impo

rtan

t to

NO

T co

rrec

t a

dog

for

grow

ling.


��


Appendix 3

The scale of bites is based on the information in Dr. Ian Dunbar’s videos Dog Aggression: Fighting and Dog Aggression: Biting (1998, James & Kenneth Publishers). It is used in the consultation to establish the number and level of bites that a dog has actually engaged in. This page is kept on file for our information and may be added to in the event of any further bites. Due to the risk involved with dealing with dogs with known hard mouths, we use the information obtained in this exercise to determine what safety measures should be taken when handling each dog. A dog who has landed a Level 5 bite is not eligible for the Good Dog Program, and we would offer the client two options: referral to their veterinarian for euthanasia or referral to a board-certified veterinary behaviorist. Although it is theoretically possible to rehabilitate a dog who has landed a Level 5 bite, we do not feel that it is possible to do so while keeping everyone safe at all times. Dogs who have landed Level 4 bites may be accepted into the Good Dog Program at the consultant’s discretion.


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Bite Assessment Screen

Dog’s Name:__________________________________________

Levels of Bite Inhibition

Level 1: Snap with jaws: no contact with skin.

Level 2: Single bite and release; bruises only.

Level 3: Single bite and release; puncture wounds and bruising.

Level 4: Multiple bites. Dog may hang on, shaking the limb, dog may even make a series of quick

multiple bites, much like a human eating an ear of corn very rapidly.

Level 5: Level 4 bites with severe mutilation.

Level 6: Level 5 and death of victim.

Date Victim Level Details


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References for Good Dog Program

Dodman N. (1997). The dog who loved too much. New York, NY: Bantam Books.

Donaldson, J. (2003). Fight! A practical guide to the treatment of dog-dog aggression, San

Francisco, CA: Kinship Communications.

Donaldson J. (2002) Mine! A practical guide to resource guarding in dogs. San Francisco, CA:

Kinship Communications.

Dunbar, I. (1998). Dog aggression: biting. Berkeley, CA:James and Kenneth Publishers

Dunbar, I. (1998). Dog aggression: fighting. Berkeley, CA: James and Kenneth Publishers

Dunbar, I. (1979). Dog behavior why dogs do what they do. Neptune, NJ: TFH Publishing.

Dunbar, I. (1991). How to teach a new dog old tricks, second edition. Berkeley, CA:James &

Kenneth Publishers.

Fogle, B. (1990). The dog’s mind, New York, NY: Howell Book House.

O’Heare, J. (2003). Dominance theory and dogs. Ontario, Canada: DogPsych Publishing.

O’Heare, J. (2001). The canine aggression workbook. Ontario, Canada: Gentle Solutions.

Landsburg, G., Hunthausen, W., Ackerman, L. (2003). Handbook of behavior problems of the dog

and cat, second edition. Philadelphia, PA: W. B. Saunders & Company.

Leuscher, A. (2001). Canine aggression. London, Ontario, Canada: Professional Animal Behaviour

Associates.

McConnell, P. (2002). How to be the leader of the pack and have your dog love you for it!,

second edition. Black Earth, WI: Dog’s Best Friend Ltd.

Miller, Pat. (2001). The power of positive dog training. Howell Book House, New York, NY.

Overall, K.L. (1997). Clinical behavioral medicine for small animals. St. Louis, MO: Mosby, Inc.

Sherman, C.K., Reisner, I.R., Taliaferro, L.A., Houpt, K.A. (1996). Characteristics, treatment, and

outcome of 99 cases of aggression between dogs. Applied Animal Behaviour Science.

47(1-2):91-108.

Reid, P. (1996). Excel-erated learning. Berkeley, CA: James & Kenneth Publishers.

Uchida, Y., Dodman, N., DeNapoli, J, Aronson, L. (1997). Characterization and treatment of 20

canine dominance aggression cases. Journal of Veterinary Medical Science. 59(5):397-

399.

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REVIEW: Fight! A Practical Guide to the Treatment of Dog-Dog Aggression

Jean Donaldson, San Francisco: Kinship Communications, �00�

Reviewed by Dani Weinberg, PhD, CDBC

Jean Donaldson is already well-known to dog trainers and behavior consultants for her previous books (Donaldson 1996, 1998, 2002). In Fight!, her latest book, Donaldson offers a typology of dog-dog aggression based on behaviorism. She proposes that we describe, diagnose, and design treatment plans for aggression by looking at what the dog is actually doing. Instead of attempting to make interpretations about behavior by considering the dog’s past history (“He must have been abused”) or guessing at current motivation (“She’s afraid”), she wants us to examine only observable data—to “see, measure and modify behavior using well-established principles of operant and classical conditioning.” (Donaldson, 2004, p. 5). This behavior-based classification scheme can then lead to more effective conflict-resolution strategies.

The book begins with an excellent introduction that makes the following broad points: dog-dog aggression is a normal and evolutionarily adaptive behavior; ritualized aggression is an important peacekeeping strategy; even “genetic” behaviors are not necessarily immutable; and “dominance” models of aggression are based on insufficient research and are essentially ideological, rather than scientific. Donaldson then lists six of what she considers the most common types of dog-dog aggression: the hyper-motivated dog with “coarse social skills” whom she calls “Tarzan”; the proximity-sensitive dog who demonstrates the fight-flight model; the resource guarder; the bully with play-skill deficits who targets and then harasses another dog; the intense dog whose play sometimes tips over into aggression; and, finally, the severe, and often untreatable, dogs who are predatory or simply asocial and compulsive fighters. She reminds us that “Reality is a messy business and it is not at all uncommon for a dog to have problems in more than one category.” (Donaldson, 2004, p. 21) In the remainder of the book, she discusses each type in detail and guides us through an analytical process for making a differential diagnosis. Based on this working diagnosis, she then presents prognosis-assessment factors and treatment plans in a textual flow-chart style that helps to confirm the diagnosis and resolve the aggression.

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I decided to test the practicality of Donaldson’s model during a recent behavior consultation. After the client had described the dog’s unwanted behavior, I suggested that his dog was somewhat shy and particularly sensitive to the proximity of other dogs. As a result, she might respond either by withdrawing (if possible) or by preemptively striking out at the other dog—“I’ll get you before you get me.” As I talked, the client smiled and nodded his head vigorously. Yes, that was exactly right. He was then able to reconsider his previous historical and rather whimsical explanation of his dog’s behavior—that she had been “abused” by a particularly forceful Schutzhund trainer and, as a result, was very fearful of everything she encountered. We now had a shared understanding of the dog’s behavior, and the client readily accepted my proposed treatment plan.

Donaldson’s Tarzan type is particularly interesting, and that may be why she devotes much more space in the book to him than to any of the other types. He is a dog whose behavior is probably most often misinterpreted as fear, dominance, territorial, possessive, or learned aggression. These interpretations may lead to ineffective and even counterproductive treatment strategies. Donaldson’s description of Tarzan as an “over the top” dog who comes on too strong sounds just like one of my own dogs! Tarzan is typically a highly social dog who, for one reason or another, has had little opportunity to interact freely with other dogs and has become hyper-motivated in their presence. “When he does make contact, his excitement and inexperience cause him to commit asocial gaffes—he is too much in the other dog’s face and fails to read the other dog’s body language” (Donaldson, 2004, p.14).

The treatment plan for Tarzan is a combination of carefully designed and monitored “remedial off-leash socialization” sessions and teaching better on-leash manners through operant conditioning. This section of the book is one of the most impressive and useful. Donaldson talks about how to select dogs for remedial socialization and how to run a “Tarzan Therapy Group.” She offers guidelines as to the size, composition, and frequency of the remedial play groups.

She points out that, although this is contrary to general principles of conditioning, remedial play sessions should be allowed to run to the point of boredom and satiation. She includes insights on how long a cooling-off period should be, following a flare-up.

For the proximity-sensitive dog, Donaldson prescribes a program of systematic desensitization and counterconditioning and describes it in detail. In her discussion of the bully, she talks about how to use negative punishment in the most effective ways. She also presents a protocol for teaching the bully to interrupt his own bullying behavior.

For the resource guarder, Donaldson describes treatment plans that employ both classical and operant conditioning. Here she goes beyond her previous book, Mine! (Donaldson, 2002), which is primarily about dog-human resource guarding. She suggests training both the guarder

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and the guarded-against dogs. Her operant strategy for the guarder is to teach withdrawal from the room—with the guarded object—when the other dog enters. She also teaches the guarded-against dog to avoid the guarder when a valued resource is in the latter’s possession.

Donaldson has written this book in two different “voices”—the Teacher and the Thinker. As Teacher, her writing is clear, direct, and powerful, and she makes excellent use of metaphor and analogy—for example, pointing out similarities between canine and human behavior. When she slips into the Thinker voice, though, she becomes abstract and her writing style is compressed. A single sentence might contain several key ideas, making it difficult to follow. In addition, the organization of the book makes it hard to navigate. Perhaps in the next edition, Donaldson’s editor will make such simple corrections as starting new sections of the book on their own pages, with their own section headings.

But these problems are only mild distractions from the high quality of information in the book. Others have written useful books about dog aggression (Aloff, 2002; O’Heare, 2003). Donaldson does not present new information so much as frame it in a new way—simplified, concise, more focused, and very practical. She also adds her own valuable insights and guidelines for the diagnosis and treatment of dog-dog aggression.

This book will be very useful for professional dog trainers and behavior consultants. It is not the kind of book that I would recommend to a dog owner unless he or she was working with a professional and using the book to support the work. The professionals, however, will find Donaldson’s book to be an important contribution to their own learning and practice.

References

Aloff B. (2002). Aggression in dogs: Practical management, prevention & behavior modification.

Collierville, TN: Fundcraft, Inc.

Donaldson J. (1996). The culture clash. Berkeley: James & Kenneth Publishers.

Donaldson J. (1998). Dogs are from Neptune. Montreal: Lasar Multimedia Productions.

Donaldson J. (2002) Mine! A practical guide to resource guarding in dogs. San Francisco: Kinship

Communications.

O’Heare J. (2003) The Canine Aggression Workbook. Ottawa: DogPsych.

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IAABC COMMITTEESPublications Consultant

Beth Adelman

Consultant for Feline Behavior Consulting EducationPam Johnson-Bennett

Long-Term Planning for Animal Behavior Consultant Education Barbara Shumannfang, Chair; Janice Triptow, Virginia Hoffman

Education CollaborativeChris Hamer, Rachel Freidman

Ethics CommitteeMichael Burkey, Chair; Carolyn DeFiore, Niki Lamproplos

Education CommitteeVeronica Sanchez, Chair; Becky Schultz, Sue Kapla, Jen Shyrock, Barbara Handelman,

Robin Pool, Parvene Farhoody

Social Justice CommitteeThomas VanWinkle, Chair; Jan Gribble, Becky Schultz, Jeff Silverman

Service Animal Consulting divisionVeronica Sanchez, Robin Pool, Debbie Winkler, Barbara Handelman, Mara Windstar,

Riggan Shilstone, Debi Davis, Sue Alexander

Therapy Animal Consulting divisionSteve Dale, Patricia Hanley-Kallen, Tara MacLaughlin

Cat Behavior Consulting divisionDebbie Winkler, Pam Johnson-Bennett, Marva Marrow

Parrot Behavior Consulting divisionLiz Wilson, Joanne Oliva-Purdy, Jody, Bright, Mattie Sue Athan, Kim Bear, Pamela Clark, Christine Davis, Phoebe Greene Linden, John Hoimeiier, Marguerite Floyd, Cathy Isbell,

Bonnie Kink, Bianca Zaffarano

Commission on the Dog-Human ConnectionChris Bach, Chair; Sue Kapla, Jennifer Boznos, Dr. Linda Arndt, Phyllis Goll, Bonny Barry

Documents

Animal Behavior Consulting: Theory and Practice: Fall 2004