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Home page- Mobile view
A – Z search: Search feature with auto-fill typing of 540 pest/ problem content pages.
Household pests: Navigation page with icons,
text and links to 11 second-level navigation
pages leading to 35 indoor and structural pest
content pages with one ‘How to’ guide.
Animal pests: Navigation page with icons and
links to 15 vertebrate pest content pages and
one ‘How to guide.
Plant problems: Navigation page with icons,
text and links to six second-level navigation
pages, 26 third-level navigation pages leading
to 390 problem/pages and 19 ‘How to’ guides.
Weeds and invasive plants: Navigation with
icons, text and links to six second-level
navigation pages, 29 third-level navigation
pages with 100 problem/pest pages and 12
‘How to’ guides focused on practical weed
management strategies and techniques.
Pesticide risk reduction communications:
Navigation page with icons, text and links to
Six responsive design tables with visual
content and text to convey the relative risk
of general use pesticides in high, medium
and low risk categories.
Six responsive design tables with visual
content and text to convey the relative risk
of restricted use materials in high, medium
and low risk categories.
Thirty four guides on specific topics to help
users reduce the risk of pesticides to
human health and the environment.
Horizontal scroll feature: Users
browse through visual content, text
and links to find timely information
about high-priority invasives.
Content areas # pages
Household pests 35
Animal pests 15
Plant problems 390
Weeds and invasive plants 100
‘How to’ guides 40
Pesticide risk reduction guides 34
Spanish language content 246
Total content pages 860
Spanish language content:
Determine priorities with
stakeholder input. Develop
communications strategies,
translate content and conduct
usability testing and evaluation.
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Website footer- Mobile view
Basic page with county-by-county listings for OSU Extension offices, staff and Master Gardener volunteers.
Link to pre-existing “Ask an Expert” question-answer system linked to OSU staff and MG volunteers with publicly available repository of cases. Part of a nation-wide eXtension system.
‘How to’ guides: Navigation page with visual
content, text and links to five second-level
navigation pages; 40 pre-formatted pages with
cultural information and tips to avoid
problems; links to common problems, weed
management guidelines and resources for
more information.
Pesticide risk reduction guides. See page 36
above for details.
What to look for this month: Drop down
horizontal scroll feature allows users to
browse through visual content, text and links
of common problems and pests month by
month.
Basic page with information about how to
choose pesticide applicator.
Basic web page with text and logos of funders
and partners of this projects.
Include link to information about how to use
the IPM website itself.
Poison control information.
The website will also make it easy for users to
print individual website pages.
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Household pests navigation page- Mobile view
Household pests: The categories for this
navigation page are based on groupings of
pest control products found on store shelves.
The icons, text and links on this navigation
page lead to 35 total pest/problem pages.
See Appendix 1 on page 92 for a view of the
full sample page for mold and mildew.
See Appendix 8 on page 97 for a view of the
full sample page for yellow jackets.
4
Animal pests navigation page- Mobile view
Animal pests: Groupings of vertebrate pests are
based on common management strategies.
‘How to’ guide describing overall management
strategies for vertebrate pests.
Links to a navigation page leading to three
separate pages for each type of pest.
A – Z search of vertebrate pests.
Links to a navigation page leading to bird
pests of structures and birds pests of crops.
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Plant problems navigation page- Mobile view
Link to navigation page with ‘How to’ guides for growing healthy plants.
Plant problem content summary
Level 2 navigation pages
Level 3 Nav pages
Pest pages
‘How to’ pages
Lawns and turf 35 1
Berries, fruits, and nuts 10 125 10
Vegetables and melons 10 90 10
Ornamental plants 6 120 6
Houseplants 10 1
Indoor gardening 10 1
Total 26 390 19
Vegetables and melons: Third-level navigation pages based on 10 vegetable crop families.
Lawns and turf: Pest/problem navigation page with visual content, text and links to 35 lawn problems.
Ornamental plants: Third-level navigation pages based
on these groupings: Herbaceous flowers (annual and
perennials), roses, azaleas and rhododendrons, conifer
trees and shrubs, non-coniferous evergreen trees and
shrubs, deciduous trees and shrubs.
Houseplants: Navigation page with visual content, text and links to 10 houseplant problems.
Indoor gardening: Navigation page with visual content, text and links to 10 indoor vegetable and culinary herb gardening problems.
Berries, fruits, and nuts: Third-level navigation pages based on these groupings: Blueberries, blackberries and raspberries, strawberries, grapes, kiwis, currants, pome fruits, stone fruits, walnut and filbert.
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Weeds and invasive plants navigation page- Mobile view
Weeds and invasive plants: Navigation page
with icons, text and links to six second-level
navigation pages, 29 third-level navigation
pages with 100 problem/pest pages and 12
‘How to’ guides focused on practical weed
management strategies and techniques.
Horizontal scroll feature: Users browse
through visual content, text and links to find
timely information about high-priority
invasive plants.
A – Z search function by common name of
weed or invasive plant.
Navigation page with links to guides to
manage weeds/invasive plants based on
growth habit: annual, perennial, biennial,
grasses, woody trees and shrubs.
Navigation page with links to ‘How to’ guides
to manage weeds/invasive plants based on
land use areas consistent with herbicide
labels: Bare ground areas, berry, fruit, and
nut areas; vegetable and melon areas and
riparian/habitat areas.
Navigation page with icons, text and links to
’How to’ guides based on the weeds’ growth
habits. Categories include: herbaceous broad
leaf plants, grasses and grass-like plants,
woody trees and shrubs.
Navigation page with visual weed
identification tool. See page 47 below for
details.
Navigation page with links to ‘How to’ guides
to manage moss in different areas: Lawn and
landscape, decks and walkways and roofs.
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Pesticide risk reduction navigation- Mobile view
Pesticide risk reduction communications:
All content to be to be shaped with community
input from diverse stakeholders.
Pesticide risk reduction table (Restricted use
only): Six responsive design tables for restricted
use pesticides with pictographic information on
organic status, human health risk, and
environmental risk. Visual content and text will
convey the relative risk of general use pesticides
in high, medium and low risk categories. Tables
include: Herbicides, moss control products,
fungicides, insecticides, rodenticides and
molluscicides available to holders of an ODA
pesticide applicators license. Use strong
disclaimers to dissuade non-commercial
audiences from accessing content.
Choose a pesticide
(General use)
Choose a pesticide
(Commercial use)
Pesticide risk
reduction guides
gguiidestrategies Pesticide risk reduction table (General use):
Six responsive design tables for general use
pesticides with pictographic information on
organic status, human health risk, and
environmental risk. Visual content and text will
convey the relative risk of general use pesticides
in high, medium and low risk categories. Tables
include: Herbicides, moss control products,
fungicides, insecticides, rodenticides and
molluscicides available to the general public at
hardware stores, nurseries and garden centers.
Pesticide risk reduction guides: Thirty four re-
formatted pages supporting site management
decision making while reducing pesticide risk to
people and the environment. See list of topics in
Appendix 9.
How to choose a
pesticide applicator
WARNING:
For commercial
pesticide
applicators only!
Basic page with information about how to
choose a pesticide applicator.
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Drill down to specific kind of plant (Rose) - Mobile view
Home page
Plant problems navigation
Dropdown scroll feature
Roses
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Plant navigation page (Rose) - Mobile view with drop down content
Drop down to horizontal scroll
feature with visual content and text.
‘How to’ guide for growing roses.
Drop down to horizontal scroll
feature for each category of plant
problem: Cultural and physical,
disease and insects/invertebrates.
Dropdown horizontal scroll
feature to browse through
diseases of roses
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Pest/problem page (Rose black spot) - Mobile view with drop down content
What happens if I do nothing?
This section advises website user
about the severity of the problem
and whether immediate action is
warranted or is it something that can
be tolerated without posing further
risk to their structures or property.
See Appendix 8 on page 82 below for a
view of the full sample page for rose
black spot.
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Pest/problem page (Rose black spot) - Tablet and desktops views
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Weeds and invasive plants drill down- Mobile view
Herbaceous broad
leaf plants
Browse by plant
growth pattern
Grasses and grass-
like plants
Wood trees and
shrubs
Browse type of by plant growth
pattern
Browse by common name (A – Z
listing of common name)
Amaranth
Bindweed, field
Bittercress
Buttercup
Chamomile
Chickweed
Canada thistle
Catsear
Bur clover
See page 48 for wire frame of
Canada thistle content page.
Bedstraw
Amaranth
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Weeds and invasive plants content page (Canada thistle) - Mobile view
Young leaves
have hairs and
prickly edges.
Example 2
Example
3
Young leaves
have hairs and
prickly edges.
Canada thistle (Colorado Weed
Management Association)
Canada thistle (Oregon State
University)
Canada thistle (Penn State University)
Canada thistle (Cirsium arvense)
Example 2 Exampl
e 3
Line drawing of leaves and flowers.
What happens if I do nothing?
Unmanaged patches can quickly form
large, dense stands that choke out native
and ornamental plants. Canada thistle
causes severe problems in landscapes,
pastures and croplands.
See Appendix 1 on page 87 for a view of the
full sample page for Canada thistle.
Example 1
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Visual weed identification tool mockup- Mobile view
Also include woody tree and shrub
and vine categories.
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Menu button functionality- Mobile view
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‘How to’ guide example (How to grow roses)
Roses Rosa spp.
Cultural requirements
Roses grow best when in a site with at least 8 hours of sunlight per day and good drainage.
Flowering is most prolific when their high demands for nutrients and water are met.
Get your roses off to a good start by adding four to six inches of compost to the soil and
loosening the soil up to 24 inches in depth. Dig a generous hole and spread out the roots of a
new bush. Roses thrive in soils with pH of 6.8-7.2; lime or dolomitic lime may be required to
bring pH to that level. A soil test is the most reliable way to know how much lime to add, if any.
Add a complete fertilizer to roses in a split application in the spring and early summer. The
amount of fertilizer to add will vary by the percentage of nutrients in the material. Follow label
instructions for best results.
If soils are shallow, excessively rocky or compacted, you might want to plant roses in raised
beds filled with a purchased planting soil. In areas where gophers or other burrowing rodents
are a problem, the bottoms of raised beds may be lined with ¼-½” hardware cloth or use a wire
cage to protect the roots
Roses require about an inch of water per week, and are best watered with drip irrigation
system so that their leaves remain dry. If an existing sprinkler system is in place, time water
application to roses for the morning, so that foliage will dry quickly. How long you irrigate roses
depends on the soil type in your garden. Determine how much water you’re applying by
watering for a set amount of time. The next day, dig down to determine how deep the water
percolated. If it’s less than about 15-18 inches, apply more water. For example, if 20 minutes of
irrigation wetted the soil to a depth of 4 inches, then irrigate for 60 to 80 minutes (3 to 4 times
as long) to wet the entire root zone. Watering for a longer period, and less often, encourages
deeper root growth.
Roses require annual pruning to look their best. Prune in early spring, before the buds have
begun to swell. First remove any dead, damaged, or diseased canes down to the bud union –
where the canes join the roots. Remove any spindly canes that did not produce the year before.
Then reduce each of the remaining canes by about 1/3. Roses produce blooms on “new wood.”
New shoots will be produced from the bud union, and off existing canes. You can use this
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knowledge to control the overall size of the bush, and still have flowers. The greatest new
growth will come from the top bud remaining on a pruned cane. When cutting back existing
canes, cut on a slant about ¼-½” above an outward-facing bud. This will encourage new growth
and keep the center of the bush open. That in turn encourages good air circulation and reduced
disease problems.
Deadheading is a common practice to encourage more blooms and a fresh appearance in the
garden. Cut the flower stem back to an outward-facing bud above a leaflet with five or seven
leaves.
Prevent problems from happening
Prevent problems with all plants by providing for their basic soil, sun, water and nutrient needs.
Mulch will reduce weed problems among roses and make the weeds that do grow easier to
remove.
In the Pacific Northwest, roses are subject to fungal diseases like rust, powdery milder, and
black spot. Choosing resistant cultivars is the best way to minimize these problems. Choose
varieties that are resistant to these common problems. For a list of rose cultivar disease
resistance, see OSU’s Rose Cultivar Resistance table.
Aphids are the most common insect problem in roses. They tend to cluster on unopened buds
and on the underside of leaves. Aphids can be knocked to the ground with a strong stream of
water; they will not be able to climb back up onto the buds. Insecticidal soap is also an effective
and reasonably safe solution to aphid outbreaks.
If you follow the recommended management practices above and can tolerate minor damage
to your roses from diseases and insects, it is possible to grow them without using pesticides.
See the Fungicide risk reduction table to find safe and effective disease control products. See
Insecticide risk reduction table to find safe and effective insect control products.
For more information
Hortsense Common Diseases: Powdery Mildew
Hortsense Common Diseases: Rusts
UC IPM
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Pesticide risk reduction guide example (Weed killer for lawns)
Weed killer for lawns
Lawns are important components of home landscapes and can require considerable time and
resources to maintain. Hardware stores, nurseries and garden centers offer many herbicide
products for use in lawns. Prepare yourself with information before choosing a chemical
solution to weeds in lawns.
For general information about caring for your lawn, see How to grow healthy lawn guide.
Determine your weed management goals
Can you accept broadleaf weeds like clover and lawn daisy in your lawn? These often blend in
nicely with turf grass. They also provide food for pollinators. If so, you can manage your lawn
without weed killers. Just mow, water, fertilize and fill in bare spots and thin areas by regularly
sowing grass seed into a thin layer of compost tamped down on the bare spot. Water regularly
until young seedlings are well established.
Clovers can out-compete grasses when soil is low in nitrogen. If you don’t want clovers growing
in the lawn, fertilize grass in the late spring and fall to favor turf grass species and squeeze out
clovers.
Identify the weeds
The first step to managing a weed in your yard is to identify the plant, how it grows and
determine best management practices. See Visual weed identification tool to identify the
weeds in your lawn.
Weed killer in lawns: Choosing and using herbicide products.
See the weed killers section of the pesticide risk reduction table for more information about
specific active ingredients of herbicides.
Non-selective herbicides kill existing grass and weeds. Use them to start over if your lawn is
severely infested with tough perennial weeds like dandelions and bindweed. These products
are best applied in early fall. They will kill all vegetation in the lawn. Then renovate the lawn in
the spring or early fall. See How to grow healthy lawn guide.
Selective herbicides will kill either broadleaf plants or grasses. They are best for spot
applications. If there are broadleaf plants growing in your lawn that you cannot tolerate, try
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hand removal first. If you choose to use a selective weed killer, apply it during the fall when
broadleaf plants are actively sending sugars to their root systems in preparation for winter.
For unwanted grasses like crabgrass, first prevent it from going to seed and try hand removal. If
hand removal is not feasible, spot-apply a selective herbicide that kills unwanted grasses like
crabgrass.
Weed and feed products are displayed prominently in stores in the spring. These lawn-specific
products are a blend of herbicides and fertilizers. Although easy to use and convenient, weed
and feed products are not recommended because:
Weed and feed products apply a fertilizer and an herbicide to the entire lawn whether
both are needed or not.
Weed and feed products are generally intended for early spring application. Early
spring is not the best time to fertilize lawns - late spring and again in the fall are. Plants
actively take up fertilizers when warmer temperatures start a growth-spurt.
Many weed and feed products contain pre-emergent herbicides that prevent weed
seeds from germinating. They don’t kill existing weeds.
If the lawn is growing vigorously, weeds have been kept under control, and bare spots
have been reseeded, there are fewer weed seeds in the soil and fewer sites for them to
gain a foot-hold. A pre-emergent weed killer is unnecessary.
Prevent weeds from becoming reestablished
Once weeds in lawns are successfully managed and new weed seeds are not finding their way
to bare soil in the lawn, it is possible to keep the lawn area looking good without regular use of
a weed killer. Maintain a robust stand of turf grass through proper fertilization, irrigation,
mowing and by preventing weeds from going to seed.
Corn gluten meal and organic herbicides
Corn gluten meal is a corn product. Though this material is sometimes marketed as a pre-
emergent herbicide, its efficacy as a weed killer is unknown. Its nitrogen content might support
more vigorous grass growth.
Contact herbicides like soaps and essential oil will burn the grass blades and weed leaves that
they contact, but they will not kill established plants, especially perennial weeds like
dandelions. These products are not effective solutions to lawn weed problems.
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For more information
Lawn myth busting: Skip the spring ‘weed and feed’- Cornell University
UC IPM
Guide to Controlling Weeds in Cool Season Turf- University of Maryland.