An Indian Journey

an

INDIANjourneywhere one lifetime of discovery falls short

A DDP PUBLICATION Pages: 74 Vol III Issue 06 June 2010 Rs. 50

Dear readers,

This summer, An Indian Journey takes you on an exciting exploration of India. A country that is home to some of the !nest crafts and textiles in the world. And in this issue we bring to our readers the exotic silks of India with its intricately woven patterns. Find out how India keeps cool during the extreme summers, with indigenous summer drinks created with fruits and milk and spiced up with herbs and Indian spices.

The Maharajas’ Express, a luxury train crafted for royalty, takes you on a voyage of discovery to well-known and hidden destinations through East, West and North India. Explore the temple town of Kanchipuram in the South and venture to the little known North East region of India, home to some of the most colourful tribes in the country. And for a whiff of cool mountain air we take you to Manali, a pretty hill station in the Himalayas and to Ladakh, an extreme destination, where the festival at Hemis, a Buddhist monastery, will keep the visitor mesmerised.

A visit to this magni!cent country will truly enrich your mind.

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Cover: Vastrashobha collection from Shobha Deepak Singh

SanJeet

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Ipshita Barua

Alpana Khare Sunanda Kashyap

Gunjan Sabikhi Harshal Ashar N. Sanjiba Singh Prerna Gulati Prem Sagar

Anil Kharbanda

Ashok Rana

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INDIANjourneyan where one lifetime of discovery falls short

A DDP PUBLICATION Pages: 74 Vol III Issue 05 May 2010

an

INDIANjourneywhere one lifetime of discovery falls short

A DDP PUBLICATION Pages: 74 Vol III Issue 06 June 2010 Rs. 50

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Contents14 SILIGURI & ORBIT HOTELS

Siliguri is an excellent stopover for travellers who want to explore Sikkim, Darjeeling and various wildlife sanctuaries in the surroundings.

16 SILKEN THREAD – INDIA’S RICH HERITAGEThe silks of India are amongst the !nest in the world. Every state in the country has a story to tell about the ancient craft of silk weaving.

26 BEAT THE HEAT – DRINK DOWN THE COOLERSIndian summer drinks are the best way to keep the temperatures down in the sizzling heat.

34 TEMPLE TOWNS OF KANCHIPURAM AND RAMESWARAM These two ancient cities famous for their beautiful temples.

40 UNEXPLORED NORTH EAST – A DRIVE TO THE UNKNOWNThe North East of India with its wildlife and colourful tribes, is a refreshing new destination waiting to be discovered.

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46 LUXURY TRAIL – ABOARD THE MAHARAJAS’ EXPRESSThe Maharajas’ Express is luxury train that takes you across majestic India and recreates the lifestyles of the Indian royalty.

52 MANALI – A HIMALAYAN FAIRYLANDLocated amid lush !elds and apple orchards, little disturbs the peace in Manali but the sounds of waterfalls and temple bells.

58 HEMIS FESTIVAL The people of Ladakh celebrate the birth of Guru Padmasambhava in this colourful festival.

REGULAR FEATURES

10 IN FOCUSBuzz in town.

60 REVIEWSLatest reviews from the literary and music world.

64 KALEIDOSCOPE INDIAA splash of colours.

66 HOTSPOTSCool hotel deals this summer.

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Contributors

SOLANGE HANDO is an award-winning travel writer based in the UK. She belongs to the British Guild of Travel Writers, contributes to National Geographic books and publishes features worldwide. She travels far and wide but is especially interested in Asia, in particular India and the Himalaya.

CHAPAL MEHRA is a writer and researcher based in New Delhi. He lives in a basement and his world view is shaped mostly, if not entirely, by his location. He spends his days wondering about life above the netherworlds. Occasionally, he writes on travel, fashion and human rights.

From childhood SUPRAKASH has been attracted to the camera and started clicking with his Isoly-II. With time he has changed his equipment but still follows his heart when it comes to his one and only passion - Photography. He tries to capture some form of life in every frame because as per him Life is a Celebration.

Currently his interests are in Temples, Nature, Wildlife, Birds and Human Life. Apart from Photography he also pursues his career as a senior level Manager in Business development in Chennai, India.

JANICE PARIAT is a freelance writer now based in her hometown Shillong after many years of being away in Delhi and elsewhere. Her writing has appeared in Timeout Delhi, Art India, Biblio: A Review of Books, Business Standard Weekend, thesmokingpoet, Ultra Violet, Tongues of the Ocean and Poetry Friends among others.

AJAY JAIN is a full time roadie, mostly ‘unseen’ as he zips around the country in his SUV writing travel stories and taking photographs. He has two travel books to his credit, Peep Peep Don’t Sleep (a collection of funny road signs) and Postcards from Ladakh (a pictorial travelogue on Ladakh). He displays and

sells prints of his photography from the Kunzum Gallery in Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi.

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LEISURE ACTIVITIES AT 32ND MILESTONEBowling and much moreGurgaon, HaryanaApr 10 – June 9

PEROAn exhibition of garments using traditional skills and textilesPresented by AmethystGopalpuram, ChennaiJune 12 - 20

GANGA DUSSEHRADevotees worship the river Ganga for ten daysAcross states where the river "ows

TRANQUIL MOMENTSA photo exhibition by Sandeep SilasIndia Habitat Centre New Delhi

PAINTINGS AND CERAMICS BY SURUCHI JAMKARShridharani Gallery, Triveni Kala SangamNew DelhiMay 24 – June 2

MAA KA KHANA…KHUSIYON KA KHAZANAA month long food festivalKyra Theatre and RestaurantBangalore

SORATH MELAA fair held in the Madhubani district for over 15 daysBihar

GAYATRI JAYANTICelebrates the manifestation of Goddess Gayatri, the mother of the VedasAcross India

INSIGHT INTO YOGAAn introductory course into yoga theory and practiceYoga InstituteSanta Cruz, MumbaiJune 26 – July 2

SINDHU DARSHAN FESTIVALA celebration of the river IndusLeh, LadakhJune 1 – June 3

NATYA UTSAV 2010A dance repertory at the Shri Ram CentreNew DelhiMay 27 – June 13

BUZZ MASALABuzz presents the drink of the monthSaket, New DelhiApr 15 – June 18

THEATRE WORKSHOP BY ARVIND GAURIndia Habitat CentreNew DelhiMay 17 – June 24

ARTWORKS BY S. H. RAZAAkar PrakarKolkataJun 19 – July 10

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GR-CHAKRAGeeta Chandran celebrates World Environment Day with a dance performanceKamani AuditoriumNew Delhi

SUAR CHALA SPACE KOA play for children over !vePrithvi TheatreMumbai

POPPADAMThai High launches a South Indian speciality restaurantAmbawatta Complex, New DelhiMid June

KIDS SUMMER WORKSHOPSPhotography, charcoal painting, clay modellingEpicentreGurgaon, HaryanaMay 1 – June 29

JAGJIT SINGH UNFORGETTABLE Featuring the Ghazal maestro liveAmbedkar BhavanBangalore

KISHMISHArtworks by Nikki Kalia and Rekha BhatiaPresented by AmethystGopalpuram, ChennaiJune 12 – June 20

BRIDES OF INDIAA bridal and lifestyle exhibitionWorld Trade CentreMumbaiJune 18 - June 20

CHAMPAKULAM BOAT RACETraditional boat raceKerala

SIAM TODAYPaintbrush and Chisel presents a group of talented Thai artistsNew DelhiMay12 – June 12

WORKSHOP ON LIGHT HINDUSTANI CLASSICAL MUSICNimble Foundation CentreNariman PointMumbaiMay 23 – June 15

HEMIS FESTIVALCelebrates the birth of Guru PadmasambhavaLadakhJune 20 – June 21

ONCE UPON A TIGERA playPrithvi TheatreMumbai

VISIT LADAKH/ SRINAGARLearn outdoor skills withNature AdmireMalleswaram, BangaloreJune 03 – June15

GUITAR TRAINING WORKSHOPGuitar HallSanta CruzMumbaiApr 23 – June 22

SUMMER SPLASH AT CLUB OASIS A two and a half hours refreshing spa treatmentGrand Hyatt, MumbaiApr 20 – June 20

SAO JOAOFeast of Saint John the BaptistGoa

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NEW HOLIDAY INN IN MUMBAI

InterContinental Hotels Group opened its !rst re-branded Holiday Inn in India on April 1. Holiday Inn Mumbai International Airport has been opened under its IHG’s $1billion global re-branding exercise. With 225 rooms and tastefully designed restaurants and bars, Holiday Inn Mumbai International Airport is looking at attracting mainly business travellers in North Mumbai.

AVALON GROUP

The Avalon group pioneers in setting up service apartments in the country, owns a 52 room serviced apartment property (Avalon Courtyard) in New Delhi. Situated conveniently between Delhi and Gurgaon, this boutique property provides business or leisure travellers a well priced alternative to 5 star accommodations. Avalon Hospitality is looking at setting up more serviced apartments in the tier I and II cities of the country.

Besides Avalon Courtyard, the company also owns an 90-room ayurveda resort in Mussoorie called Avalon Resorts. This authentic ayurveda centre aims to help in health problems related to today’s lifestyles. They provide you with the ambience, healing energy and all the necessary resources to look after your every need. Avalon Resorts in Mussoorie is considered the most premium among holiday resorts in the country.

Avalon believes that wellness tourism has great potential globally and aims to make their properties some of the best wellness resorts in the world. The groups future plans are to develop and expand into this booming health hospitality and leisure industry.

I! FOCUS

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AN INDIAN JOURNEY June 201010

FREE SPIRIT Spring-Summer 2010 Collection by Neeta Bhargava

With a raging passion for art and a determination to achieve, Neeta Bhargava entered the world of creativity with a Bachelor’s degree in Fine Arts from Allahabad University. She started her artistic career in 1993 by specialising in Tanjore paintings. After establishing herself as a Tanjore artist with a contemporary brush, Neeta merged her artistic talents with her passion for fashion and established her own design studio.

Achromatic palate, alluring Ajanta and pretty paisleys are the new key words for this season. Ajanta motif extracts from the renowned Ajanta caves, paisleys in"uenced by the art of Persia and Kashmir, contributed in enhancing the new looks for tunics and kaftans by the artist and designer. This collection features a !ne blend of art and design which is Neeta’s forte. The fabric that dominates is georgette. The colour palette revolves around charcoal grays, ivory, whites, off-whites and black.

Neeta’s ensembles have an understated elegance marked by a restrained, classic style. But the uniqueness of her style lies in creating a wearable canvas by using hand paint on fabrics. She uses intricate art work on the garments as opposed to the more graphic work available in the market because she believes in remaining true to her tradition of art work. Neeta successfully combines her "air for !ne arts and her inclination towards fashion by designing ensembles for stores synonymous with high fashion.

HOWZATT

Howzatt, India’s !rst cricket themed pub-brewery at Galaxy Hotel, Gurgaon, is a fresh concept of gourmet beer & cricketainment as this unique pub with an in-house micro brewery brews four styles of beer for you. A culmination of innovation and entertainment, Howzatt provides the next level of pub experience to its guests where everyone would love to relax, enjoy cricket and have a great time. Breaking the monopoly of bottled beer, Howzatt is initially brewing four styles of beer with the fresh taste of hops, yeast and malt specially crafted to give these gourmet beers a unique taste.

Howzatt has a cricket themed and casual environment. Bowled out stumps at the entrance foyer provide a dazzling environment. Glove shaped couches upholstered in plum red leather and bright jacquard fabric on cushions all enclosed in a colour changing back lit panel adds to the vibrant and energetic feel.

Howzatt also offers various interactive elements like live broadcast of memorable matches, as a DJ spins retro music to go along from a 20-20 cricket pattern dug-out. With cricket & beer merchandise on sale, Howzatt also offers guests occasions to chat with cricket stalwarts, experts and leading players. All in all a holistic cricketing experience with great beer and exotic !nger foods.

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11AN INDIAN JOURNEY June 2010

TIVOLI GRAND RESORT HOTEL

After the successful launch of Club Tivoli, Tivoli Habitat Centre and Tivoli Holiday Village, Tivoli Group a diversi!ed hospitality and holiday village conglomerate celebrates the launch of its Tivoli Grand resort hotel @ GT Karnal Road. The luxury brand from Tivoli’s portfolio boasts of aesthetically designed accommodation with modern conveniences like innovative dining at the exquisite multi cuisine resto bar - Cabana, business centres, largest pillarless banquet hall, recreational facilities, breathtaking landscaping with a host of advanced and sophisticated eco friendly features. Whether you are food connoisseur, a business or a leisure vacationer keen on experiencing a slice of countryside, leavened with a dose of contemporary lifestyle or simply want to celebrate a special occasion or event, Tivoli Grand with its con"uence of elegant milieu and contemporary amenities is the perfect getaway for you. Tivoli Grand’s services further ensure an ideal interlude. The hotel has 28 rooms and suites designed to meet the expectations of the corporate and leisure traveller. Each room has an elegant setting and stunning comfort. According to Mr. Puneet Gupta, MD, Tivoli Group, “The hotel blends sophisticated urban "amboyance with a relaxed attitude thus making it a perfect destination for any private or social occasion”.

THE PARK HOTELS IN HYDERABAD

The Park Hotels has launched its !rst hotel in Hyderabad on April 22, which is located adjacent to the Hussain Sagar Lake. With a total investment of Rs 340 crore, this new 270-room "agship property is the ninth addition to the Apeejay Surrendra Park Hotels’ collection of boutique hotels. The Park, Hyderabad is a LEED GOLD certi!ed green hotel by the US Green Building Council. It maintains low outdoor heat absorption, high acoustic levels, minimal emission levels, energy-ef!cient lighting, and utilises natural lighting to maximum potential, among other sustainable practices.

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SEASONS HOTEL AT TARUDHAN VALLEY

The green resort and clubhouse of Seasons Hotel at Tarudhan Valley threw open their doors last October, with a celebrity-studded event. The 75-acre resort overlooking the majestic beauty of the Aravali Hills in the green

expanses of Tarudhan Valley is within an easy 90-minute drive from New Delhi. The resort has 56 spacious rooms and suites each overlooking verdant greens. The resort has a nine-hole golf course designed by Graham Cooke and

an upcoming wellness centre. The Club House offers multi-cuisine food, a swimming pool, a table tennis room and a snooker room along with a dedicated play area for kids making the resort an ideal family get-away.

REFRESHING SPA & SALON SUMMER PACKAGES AT R THE SPA, RADISSON HOTEL DELHI

Radisson Hotel Delhi, the city’s only luxury business hotel with award winning restaurants and one of the best and most spacious spas in town, has designed special spa treatment packages to tide you through the grueling summer.

While dreary hot summer threatens to bog you down, R the Spa at Radisson Delhi promises to cool and refresh you with its summer Spa treatments. Spread over three levels, the spa at Radisson Hotel Delhi is carefully designed with each level dedicated towards guest rejuvenation, and relaxation. The spa features a state-of-the-art !tness studio, spa bar, salon, luxurious spa suites and offers the best Asian and Western spa therapies. These therapies, combined with the !nest botanical products, ensure that your experience is blissful. R –The Spa is a rejuvenating haven to restore energies, detox and unwind.

Three different Summer Spa packages are being offered. The !rst includes Green Coffee Wrap, Relaxing & Refreshing Aroma Massage, Herbal Tea; the second spa treatment comprises an Anti –Oxidant facial Mask, Manicure & Pedicure, Refreshing Floral Bath and third includes Watermelon Facial, Papaya Body wrap, Aromatherapy Massage.

All the three packages include a welcome drink on arrival, the use of the Jacuzzi, Steam (Optional) & use of the Swimming Pool (Optional). Each of these packages are priced at Rs 6500/- (All inclusive of taxes)

SAROVAR HOTELS DEBUTS IN CHANDIGARH WITH HOMETEL

Sarovar Hotels & Resorts, one of the fastest growing hotel management companies, recently launched its economy brand hotel Hometel, Chandigarh, city’s !rst branded economy hotel and Sarovar’s fourth Hometel in the country. The 114-room hotel, owned and managed by Sarovar Hotels & Resorts is the 45th hotel in the company’s portfolio. It is located in the heart of city’s industrial area, within 10 minutes from the railway station and airport.

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The gateway to the beautiful North East of India, Siliguri is located in West Bengal in India. Siliguri is beautifully tucked in between the north Eastern Himalayas and

the Dooars region of West Bengal. This city serves as the base for exploring the other major places of tourist attraction like Darjeeling, Kalimpong, Dooars, Sikkim, Mirik and many more. It is also in close proximity to the borders of Bhutan, Nepal, China and Bangladesh, thereby making it of international importance. If you want to sweep away off your feet by the breathtaking views of nature, then travel to Siliguri and beyond. The climate is suitable for growing tea, and the surrounding region has many tea gardens. With all this in mind, the region’s most dynamic business house, Begraj Group, has teamed up with Modus Vivendi Hospitality to start the Orbit Hotels, eastern India’s most exciting new hotel venture. The !rst Orbit Hotel, opened in May 2010, is uniquely located at Orbit Mall, Siliguri’s most important landmark. Orbit Hotel is a world class hotel, with the !nest hospitality ethos in the region. It offers all modern amenities, spectacular mountain views, and makes for the perfect base from which to travel onward to other tourist destinations in the region. For the business traveller too, Orbit Hotel is ideal, as it is classy, well

located and the best luxury value for money. Modus Vivendi Hospitality, a Mumbai-based full-services hotel consultancy, brings world-class management and marketing expertise to this property.

Orbit Hotel is the perfect venue from where one can make excursions to beautiful tourist hubs such as Mirik, Darjeeling, Sikkim and so on. Jaldapara Wildlife Park is at a distance of 140 km from Orbit Hotel. This wildlife park is famous for the endangered one horned rhino. Tigers, leopards spotted deer, elephants and gaurs too make their home in the region. Another wildlife sanctuary that has earned a reputation for the different varieties of animals and birds that "y here is Garumara Wild Life Sanctuary. It is located 87 km from Orbit Hotel. Shorea, an eco-tourism center is located in the sal forests of Baikunthapur part of Mahananda Wild Life Sanctuary, and is very close to Orbit Hotel.

Orbit Hotel is the place to stay at Siliguri. The ideal location, plus the !nest stay within a most modern ambience make it outstanding. It is designed as an ‘art’ hotel, minimilist yet sophisticated. Orbit is a boutique property that would delight the tourist and business traveller alike. Email: [email protected] for details

HOW TO REACH SILIGURI

BY AIR Siliguri has its own domestic airport which is situated in Bagdogra at a distance of 12 Km from city center. Jet Airways, Indian Airlines and King!sher Airlines are the main "ight operators to Siliguri. There are "ights connecting Siliguri to Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata and all other major airports in India. There is a regular helicopter service as well to Gangtok.

BY RAIL New Jalpaiguri station is the nearest railway head to Siliguri, situated just 16 Km south of Siliguri. Jalpaiguri Station is connected to all major stations in the country like Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore with regular train service.

BY ROAD Siliguri is nearly 600 km away from the capital city Kolkata. There is regular bus service to Kolkata and to many other important places in West Bengal like New Jalpaiguri and Kharagpur. Private coaches as well as transport buses are operational between the cities. It is also connected to cities in North East India as well like Gangtok. LOCAL TRANSPORTATION Along with splendid bus facility inside the town, there are numerous jeeps as well that cater to locals and tourists. These jeeps generally run on shared basis.

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TEXT: CHAPAL MEHRA PHOTOGRAPHS: IPSHITA BARUA, COURTESY UTSAV

Lord, I weave the cloth of Thy Name, The fruitless toilOf weaving for the worldHas come to an end;I have attainedThe dazzling state of bliss —Free from fear, free from pain,I am the weaver, O Lord, of Thy NameKABIR, A WEAVER POET

If you observe a weaver at work you are, as I always am, struck by the solitude, self-discipline and concentration that the task requires. It is akin almost to mediation, a

momentary lapse, renders the task askew. It is hardly surprising then that the !nal fruit of this tiring and repetitive process can often be yards of soft gleaming silk or cotton as light as a birds feather.

The art of silk weaving in India is said to be one of the !nest in the world. Silk has remained unseated as sign of both power and wealth. It is instructive to note that the Arthasastra, the famous volume on statecraft, in its regulations for weavers mentions kauseya or wild silk and cinapatta or Chinese silk. We know from historical sources that India had become a silk consuming and exporting nation soon after the discovery of silk yarn. Unaffordable for the commoner, silk was in high demand with nobility and royalty. Ellison Findly in her celebrated book NurJahan, Empress of Mughal India describes the attire of the Mughal zenana where its inhabitants wore a short tight bodice with long ankle length pants under a thin long skirt with a veil covering their heads all in striped, brocaded or stamped silk. We learn of extensive royal workshops or karkhanas for silk weaving employing over 4,000 craftsmen during the reign of Muhmud Tughlaq. Centuries later, Abul Fazal, the historian at the court of

Mughal Emperor Akbar writes of the famed royal textile workshops in Lahore, Agra, Fatehpur Sikri and Ahmedabad. India’s obsession with silk as a fabric of luxury over centuries is evident by the highly developed and much celebrated forms of silk weaving and craftsmanship that survive and are patronised to date.

This romance with silk has continued unabated. Silk continues to dominate the Indian sensibility for af"uence and luxury. Most Indian trousseaus are never complete without the inclusion of at least one silk sari. For men, one silk kurta, if affordable, is mandatory. The gods, who refuse to be left behind, are appeased with silk clothes to adorn them in temples. The use of silk in contemporary fashion is considerable. The fabric is used extensively to create garments for both sexes. India is the world’s second largest producer of silk. It produces a variety of silks called Mulberry, Tasar, Muga and Eri, based on the feeding habit of the cocoons. The industry today employs over 700,000 farm families and is mostly concentrated in Karnataka, Tamilnadu and Andhra Pradesh and to some extent Assam, Uttar Pradesh and West Bengal.

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Facing page: Kanjeevaram silkAbove: The paisley motif from a Benarasi silk sari

Akbar’s four royal weaving centres was based in Ahmedabad, which unlike the other centres was not a capital of the empire. Political instability and some argue famine, forced the weavers from this region to move to Benaras and eastern regions.

The patan patola saris from Gujarat are a study in subtlety. The warp and weft are dyed by dye resist method in a range of !ve or six traditional colours like red, indigo, blue, emerald green, black or yellow. The process which is extremely exact ensures that when the fabric is woven, the design will appear precisely and create a brilliantly coloured sari woven with motis of birds,

This long tradition of Indian silk textile is justi!ably celebrated for it is one of the few ancient weaving techniques that still survive. Moreover, it is a varied and diverse craft with distinctions in technique depending on the regional culture of each state. However, to truly understand the entire spectrum of silk weaving, we must turn to the six yard sari, the weaving of which has been honed into a !ne art.

Our journey to understand the diverse technique of silk weaving begins in Gujarat one of the biggest centres of silk trade historically. It was also a leading centre of silk weaving. While the tradition barely survives in Gujarat today, even its remnants leave us speechless with the magni!cent precision of its craft. We can ascertain the importance of the region as a leading centre of craftsmanship from the fact that one of

Above left and facing page: Double Ikat, Andhra PradeshAbove right: Patan patola, GujaratBelow: Patan patola border, Gujarat

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Gentle waters after a rough ride

"owers, animals, in complete geometrical congruence. Patola is noted for its bright colours and geometric designs with folk motifs. The most expensive style is the rare double ikat patola.

Not far from Gujarat, another leading centre of weaving was in Paithani, Maharashtra known for a saree by the same name. The stunning Paithani is characterised by intricate designs on pallu( unwrapped end) and border. Motifs on pallu are generally peacock, lotus, mango and other designs inspired from the historic Ajanta caves which are nearby. The saree can take anywhere between 2 months to years to weave depending on the intricacy of the border and pallu.

In the north, the ancient city of Benaras, has been India’s leading centre of silk weaving. Benaras weavers are keepers of the old tradition of nakshabandha or the making of nakshas (designs) which forms an important part of brocade weaving. It is believed that the families of nakshabandha weavers were brought to India during the reign of Muhammed Tughlaq They were masters of the art of tying designs into the loom. Local artisans and weavers learned this art from these great craftsmen. Another variety of exceptional weaving is the !ne tissue, which had warp and weft of gold thread, with patterns worked in silk and gold thread. Often the background material would be woven in silver thread and the patterns in gold or vice-versa. These were known as Ganga-Yamuna: Ganga standing for the gold thread and Yamuna for the silver. Amru Silk brocades with a heavy pallu of "owering bushes or the

"owering mango pattern are very popular. The tanchoi sari or fabric is perhaps what one can term the “best-selling” of the Benarasi style. Interestingly, tanchoi, comes to India from China and the name is a corrupted version of tran choi after the three Choi brothers who came to India with silk. Jamvar, Navarangi, Jamdani, etc. are the types of Benaras sarees, which are much in demand.

The eastern regions of India have a distinct sari tradition. Mushirabad district of West Bengal has been a centre of silk weaving since Mughal times. The stunning Baluchar technique of weaving brocades with untwisted silk thread was developed in Murshidabad. It is based upon the miniature paintings of India. The specialty of the Baluchar saris is the large pallu with a central pattern of "owing Kalgas, the mango design enclosed by repetitive frames of miniatures. The silk baluchari comes in a wide array of contrasting colours telling different stories from Hindu epics. Another traditional silk sari from West Bengal is the famed Kantha sari. Kantha is actually a form of embroidery. Kantha embroidery is typically creating the decorative motifs with running stitch. The sari is entirely covered with running stitches and has beautiful folk, "oral, animal and bird motifs. This embroidery is usually done by rural women.

Facing page: Kantha embroideryBelow right: Tusar with kantha embroidery, West BengalBelow left: Tusar, Madhya Pradesh with Jaipuri block print

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Above and left: Paat silk from Assam

The golden Muga, white Paat and warm Eri silk are silks indigenous to the North Eastern state of Assam. Muga and paat silks are used to create the most beautiful sarees. These sarees are intricately detailed and known to be very durable. The mekhela chador, the three-piece silk sarees woven with traditional motifs is an essential in very woman’s wardrobe.

Ikat is a type of weaving where the warp, weft or both are tie-dyed before weaving to create designs on the !nished fabric. There exist two traditions of silk ikat sarees in both Orissa and Andhra Pradesh. The Orissa ikat has a close relation with the culture surrounding the worship of Lord Jagannath one of Orissa’s most revered Hindu deities. The traditional sarees are dominated by the use of four basic colours which are found on Jagannath—black, white, red and yellow. The motifs such as the lotus, conch and wheel, indicate proximity to this deity.

The Pochampalli ikats from Andhra Pradesh are easily differentiated from their Oriya cousins The pochampalli is marked by bold ornament work, making it dramatic and vibrant. The Ikat weaving originated in Nalgonda district and is now practised mainly in Puttapaka, Pochampalli and Chautuppal villages of Andhra Pradesh.

The Konard sarees also known as Temple sarees were originally woven for temple deities. These sarees have wide borders and their motifs like elephants and peacocks, symbolise water, and fertility.

Deeper south, the weavers of Kanchipuram claim to be descendants from Sage Murkada, the weaver to the gods in Hindu mythology. It is then be!tting that they create the famous Kanchipuram silk saree, one of India’s priceless traditional handloom product. Silk weaving is the main profession of the inhabitants of Kanchipuram also known as Silk City. The Kanchipuram silk sarees are woven from pure mulberry silk using a special weaving technique. It uses three single threads of silk yarn along with zari. This makes it both durable and lustrous. Some of the traditional motifs featured in the Kanchipuram silk sarees are ‘rudraksham’(seed of the rudraksha tree), ‘malli mogu’ and ‘gopuram’(temple door), ‘mayilkan’ (peacock’s eye), ‘kuyilkan’ (nightingale eye) borders.

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Old temple sari, Kanchipuram silk

Old temple sari, Kanchipuram silk

Korvai sari with rudraksh border, Kanchipuram

Kanchipuram silk, veldhari pattern with a ganga-jamuna border

Uppada silk with cutwork design, Andhra Pradesh Korvai sari with rudraksh border, Kanchipuram

Above: Tusar from Madhya Pradesh with Jaipuri hand block printLeft: Silk and Ghicha Tusar blend, Phulia, West Bengal

Tanjore,a town in sourthen India specialises in weaving what are quite aptly described “golden sarees”. These have gold thread -work and carry rich broad borders and pallus in gold work. The most popularly used motifs are the youli, the stylized lion form, the hamsa, swan, and the shardul, tiger.

To encapsulate every single variation of the Indian weaving tradition is dif!cult in an article. The variations in style and products have sub variations. However, these continued traditions remind us of the critical importance of handloom in India’s history. We cannot forget, India’s tallest leader Mahatama Gandhi hitting back at the Brisitsh with the handloom. This tradition sadly is in some area under threat as machines replicate in days what the hand took months to create. China today is dumping copies of Benarasi weaves in India, while India ironically buys its much needed silk yarn from them. While the government pours millions into helping the weavers it, does not seem to have bene!tted them suf!ciently. Stories of the keepers of this ancient craft in penury are a grim reminder that the craft is losing its patronage. The demand for the quality products of handloom weavers exists but somehow the livelihood of the weavers continues to be peril. The weaver needs to be rescued or in the words of Kabir, he would soon be tired of the “fruitless toil of weaving for the world”. !

Utsav is located at Krishi Vihar, Josip Broz Tito Marg, New Delhi and can be contacted at: +91-11-26242420Email: [email protected]

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BEAT ).+ H+,) Drink Down the CoolersTEXT: KANCHAN NATHPHOTOGRAPHS: IPSHITA BARUA, COURTESY RADISSON HOTEL DELHI

On hot summer days, beach waters or the cool mountain air might tempt you, but for instant refreshment, cool off with these easy to make wonder drinks and beat the sizzling heat!

AAM PANNA

INGREDIENTS QUANTITYRaw mango 4Roasted cumin 1tspGreen chilli 3Mint leaves 50gmSalt 1tspBlack salt 1tspBlack pepper powder 1tspIce cubes 12Water 4 cups

Garnish: Mint leaves

Indian summers are hot and we have varied traditional recipes for cool drinks, which are low calorie, full of nutrition and delicious. In fact most of them are

readymade treatments to detoxify the body and make your skin glow! Add panache to the same by dressing them up with professional tips and perfect glasses.

Let’s start with becoming wiser about our fruit facts: Lemon, one of the biggest gifts of nature, is a must in the fridge (even as its price rockets sky-high): Its tarty, citrus "avour has been vastly used to dress up both dishes and drinks.

Aam panna made with raw mango

A refreshing summer drink garnished with mint


Juice of one lemon and half a spoon of honey every morning is a great way to lose weight. Lemon acts as a blood puri!er and a cleansing agent. It is also thought to help dissolve gallstones. I guess we all can vouch for the simply made neembu paani, lemon with salt and water with a pinch of sugar, for instant relief in the heat. Lemon tea and lemonade are instant revivers. Add that extra zing to your neembu paani with a pinch of kala namak/rock salt.

Mango, the king of fruits, a gift of India to the world helps make some of the most delicious and healthy summer drinks. From shakes, aam panna to simple juice, mango takes the pride of place with its delicious "avours. If you are conscious about your weight, reduce the quantity, but don’t torture your taste buds.

Watermelon, another Indian summer favourite is succulent fruit with over 90 percent water. It grows in desert like conditions and is native to Africa. It is a valuable and portable source of water for desert situations and when natural water supplies are contaminated. A new study claims that watermelon has

ingredients that deliver viagra-like effects to the body’s blood vessels and may even increase libido. So don’t hesitate to drink glasses of its pure juice, cooled with ice.

An excellent recipe for curing the tummy bug is an Indian granny’s bel juice. With a slightly acrid to bitter taste, it sure does have a cooling effect. Bel ka sharbat, made from the pulp of Bel fruit, is sold at an affordable rate of Rs 10/- per glass at most rediwalas or juice vendors

If you are not handy enough with a knife to cut open a coconut without dropping the coconut water, leave it to the skilled roadside vendors, sitting alongside the heaps of coconuts. Some of you might try eating the malai in the coconut, then ask the vendor to give you one with the malai, the soft pulpy fruit.

We Indian love milk, so curd is used in a lot of our recipes. Lassi is made with many variations from Punjab to Kerala. Adhrirka, a drink made with curd, a little water, kewra, sugar is popular in Punjab, where many drink it before leaving the house in the morning. Its other variation, lassi is made with curd, water, a dash of ginger, pinch of salt and little green chilies.

Refreshing watermelon juice

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Variations of lassi are many, you just have to experiment and see which one suits your palate.

Some of our local fruits make the most exclusive and unusual drinks. Take for instance katira goond, used in kul! and as well as lassi. It has a jelly like consistency and has been vastly used in ayurveda. Some of the popular cool drinks are Khus sharbat, made from poppy seeds, sandalwood sharbat, roohafza, plum and imli/tamarind sharbat, jal jeera, rhododendron sharbat, phalse ka sharbat, and rose sharbat, each has a unique taste.

The coolant for the hottest summer days of course is thandai, which is made by mixing and crushing, char-e magaz (seeds of khira or cucumber), kharbuz (muskmelon), tarbuz

SWEET LASSI

INGREDIENTS QUANTITYCurd 300gmSugar 4 tbspKewra water 1tspAlmond 4Pista 10Green cardamom 1Ice cubes 12

Granish: Pista

Mango and lemon make excellent summer drinks

Lassi, a cooling drink made with curd

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THANDAI

INGREDIENTS QUANTITYCold milk 300mlSugar 3tbspThandai syrup 12 tbsp

Thandai syrup contains – Melon seed, khus khus, green cardamom powder, saunf, rosewater, whole pepper corn, dry rose petals, almond, saffron.

Garnish: Almond and saffron

(watermelon) and khus (poppy seeds), kali mirch (whole peppercorns), cardamom and almonds. The trick is to crush these ingredients on a mortar and pestle. Separate the juice. Add milk, sugar and then !nally garnish it with rose petals.

Thandai, the king of drinks

Lassi vendor, Old Delhi

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Generally the best sold drinks can be found at the popular nooks and corners all over the country. These of course are not for the faint hearted, afraid of getting the Delhi belly. This, however, does not rule out checking for cleanliness and the sure shot remedy is to head for the crowded ones. So enjoy your regular bottles of the banta soda, glasses of lassi, aam panna, and coconut water without hesitation.

One really cannot forget the natural panacea for this hot weather: WATER, if you can’t take refrigerated water, then store it in an earthen pot, in a shaded corner of your house. Either way you de!nitely need to drink at least eight glasses of water in a day! The mantra remains: Drink water, water and more water...! !

JAL JEERA

INGREDIENTS QUANTITYTamarind 100gmFresh coriander 50gmGinger 10gmRoasted cumin 1tspGreen chilli 3Mint leaves 50gmSalt 1tspBlack salt 1tspBlack pepper 1tspLemon juice 10mlIce cubes 12

Garnish: Mint leaves and lemon slices

Recipes from the kitchen of Sreenivasan. G, who is the Executive Chef at Radisson Hotel, Delhi

Jal jeera an excellent thirst quencher

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K,!/."0%&,1 'R,1+23,&,1

The temple towns of

TEXT: JANICE PARIATPHOTOGRAPHS: SUPRAKASH GHOSH

Rameswaram and Kanchipuram in Tamilnadu are the repositories of the best temple artchitecture- a legacy of Chola and Pandya rulers. The eponymous headquarters of the Kanchipuram district in Tamil Nadu is one of the oldest cities in the southern part of India and also one of the seven most sacred in the country.

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Previous page: RameshwaramAbove: Panoramic view of the temple townBelow: Kamakshi Amman TempleFacing page below: Main shrine at Kamakshi Amman Temple

The temple town is renowned for its gorgeous silk saris characterised by startling colour contrasts, beautiful gold and silver thread borders and nature motifs.

Apart from a thriving silk industry, Kanchipuram is also a treasure trove of temples that date back from the Pallava and Chola dynasties.

Dedicated to Shiva, Kailaishnath is one of the oldest temples in Kanchipuram, built by Rajasimha and his son Mahendra, in the late seventh century. The sandstone architecture of this most beautiful temple of Kanchipuram retains the freshness of the early

Dravidian style. There are !fty-eight small shrines around the main one, which honour Shiva and Parvati and their sons Ganesh and Murugan. Also striking are the fresco paintings on the inner walls of the shrines. Non-Hindus are permitted into the inner sanctum, where there is a lingam – apparently the largest in town and third largest in Asia. Visitors will !nd that the guides and priests in and around the temple are friendly and helpful.

Occupying a sprawling forty acres of land, the Ekambareswarar temple is the largest in Kanchipuram, and largely dominates its skyline. This is one of the !ve major Shiva temples (where He is worshipped as the Prithvi Lingam) and represents “earth” as one of the !ve elements. The other four temples

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are Thiruvanaikaval Jambukeswara for water, Chidambaram Natarajar for ether, Thiruvannamalai Arunachaleswara for !re and Kalahasti Nathar for wind. The temple’s !fty-nine-metre high gopuram (an ornate monumental tower at the entrance of a temple) and enormous outer wall were constructed in 1509 by Krishnadevaraya of the Vijaynagar empire. It is believed that Parvati, Shiva’s consort worshipped him in the form of a Prithivi Lingam (or a lingam made from soil). When the neighbouring Vegavati river over"owed and threatened to engulf the lingam, Parvati embraced it. Moved by this gesture, Shiva materialised into human form and married her. The name of the temple is said to be derived from Eka Amra Nather – Lord of the Mango Tree. There is a mango tree here believed to be 3,500 years old with four branches that represent the four Vedic texts.

The Vardharaja Perumal temple is impressive and exquisite. Dedicated to Vishnu, it was built by the Pallavas in 1053 and expanded later during the reign of the Cholas. It is located in Vishnu Kanchi, an area of Kanchipuram !lled with places of worship dedicated to Vishnu. There is a hundred-pillar hall !lled with breath-taking sculptural work. Take note of the ornamental rings (carved out of a single stone) at the four corners of the hall. The annual Garudothsavam festival takes place during the months of May and June and that is a vibrant, colourful time to visit the area along with hundreds of other devotees from across the country.

Another exceedingly important Vishnu temple is the Vaikunt Perumal built by the Pallava king Nandhivarman Pallavamalla a few years after the completion of the Kailaishnath temple. The Vaikuntha Perumal Temple (the name translates into ‘Vishnu’s paradise’) is a single structure whose principal parts make an

integrated whole. While it is a striking building, there are a couple of things that stand out and make this temple unusual. There’s a corridor for circumambulation of the shrines on the second and third "oors and its cloisters, with a colonnade of beautiful lion sculpture pillars and other extensive sculptures bearing various Pallava inscriptions. There is generally a lesser crowd here, and

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makes for a nice change from the other more bustling tourist spots in the city.

An enormous and imposing structure, the Kamakshi Amman temple is dedicated to the Goddess Kamakshi, a form of Tripura Sundari, one of the ten mahavidyas (goddesses who represent the ten aspects of the Divine Mother) in Hinduism. This venue also plays an important part in the worship of Parvati. It was built by the Pallavas in the fourteenth century and the inner sanctum, built on three levels, depicts Vishnu in standing, sitting and reclining postures.

While Kanchipuram is an important temple town, tourist dining and accommodation options may be found lacking. It is a good idea to make a day-trip to the city while staying in Chennai or Mamallapuram. Since the place is so popular with tourists and pilgrims, there is a culture of harassment at some temples and silk shops. It is best to be alert and !rm while dealing with vendors and hawkers. Also, have some amount of small change ready for donating to temple caretakers, shoe minders, guides and priests. All the temples are open from 6am to 12.30 and 4pm to 8.30pm. Shoes can be stored free of charge outside the temple gates. While there is no strict dress code, it is a good idea not to wear shorts and for women to be “decently covered” if you wish to enter the inner sanctums of the temples (where it is permitted, of course). !

Above: A devotee at Ekambareshwar TempleBelow: Shiva and Parvati Kailashanathar Temple, Kanchipuram

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38

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TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHS AJAY JAIN

A drive to the unknown

If you are looking for one adventurous drive, head out to the North-Eastern region of India. There is a refreshingly new world out there waiting to be discovered for those who are willing. Don’t worry about risks to your life and limb – pack your car and head out.

Facing page: A Naga warrior in full gearThis page: Arunachal Pradesh

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If you are driving from Delhi, it is best to go through Nepal – and you can hit the Jaldapara Wildlife Sanctuary on the third night. Chances are you may have never heard of

it; neither had I until I was looking for a place for a night halt. Try to get a room at the Government run Hollong Lodge, located deep inside the forest. It was fascinating to watch the authorities leave mounds of salt at night for animals like bisons who need their intake of salt just like we humans do. Book a pre-breakfast elephant safari if you want to spot any rhinoceros, deer, peacocks and other wildlife.

My appetite craving for more of the wild, I headed out to Manas National Park in Assam – it extends into Bhutan where ‘Royal’ is pre!xed to its name. While I did not spot any rhinos and dolphins – efforts are on to conserve their population – the elephants presented some delightful sights. A pair came for their bath in the Manas river, against the setting sun; if I wasn’t shooting pictures, I may have jumped in too. The next morning I came upon a herd of wild elephants of all ages, playing and jostling with one another like children. One could have watched them for hours; I would not barter these memories for anything.

My next target was Kibithu village in Arunachal Pradesh. An army outpost on the Chinese border, this is the eastern-most motorable settlement in India. On the way I stopped at Itanagar, met the Apatani tribals in Ziro and celebrated the Nyokum Yullo festival with the Nyishi tribe in Boasimla. The road from Pasighat to Hayuliang required me to drive for over hours on dry river beds – and once have my car ferried across a "owing river. With more stretches through forests and river


beds, you should follow this trail just for the drive.I eventually reached Kibithu, but bad weather meant I

could not sight Chinese villages across the border. The return leg turned out to be a tricky affair : persistent rain had caused landslides all over, and rocks were coming down at alarming regularity. It took three days to eventually get to the safety of Dibrugarh in the plains of Assam. This was the time to thank God for the safe passage.

A shower and a good night’s sleep was enough before I drove across to the pretty town of Mokokchung, home to Ao Nagas, in Nagaland. In nearby Longkhum, locals believe you leave your soul here the !rst time you visit and must return to get it back. A legendary subterranean tunnel here, believed to be 25 km long, waits for someone to play Indiana Jones and con!rm its existence. The less enterprising can saunter about the spotlessly clean village chatting with the residents, chasing their chickens. The romantics can pay a visit to Mopungchuket where the classic romance of poor boy Jena and rich girl Etiben played out. Forced to marry someone else, Etiben starved herself to death. Grief struck, Jena kept playing his "ute till he

Facing page above: Manager’s Bungalow, Gattonga Tea Estate, JorhatFacing page below: An Arunachali tribesman in traditional dressRight: HornbillBelow: Elephants frolicking in the jungle

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too was heard of no more. The village has a beautiful lake with a rope bridge, fun to cross. Also on display are 15-feet-high wood !gurines depicting local legends carved by local artist Lepden.

If you want a quick primer about Nagaland and its 16 recognized tribes, attend the annual Hornbill Festival at Kisama heritage village near capital Kohima. All the tribes congregate here to display their costumes, dances and music. Sports like tug-of-war and Naga wrestling add to the fun. Each tribe has a representative morung (sleeping hut) with thatched roofs, bamboo furniture and log drums, which are still the communication tools in some interior villages. Sample their food, home-brewed rice beer and meet the tribals up close. The modern face of the state’s youth shows up when the sun goes down (at 4 pm, thanks to one country, one time zone). Rock bands from all over have gigs, culminating in a contest with considerable prize money. The Bamboo Mall stocks Naga dresses, shawls, jewellery, bamboo artefacts, artworks and more.

During World War II, the Japanese had overrun Burma and were advancing into India when British forces, ably assisted by Naga troops, !nally forced them to retreat at Kohima. The site of one of the war’s bloodiest battles, Garrison Hill in April 1944, now has a War Cemetery with 2,337 graves and memorials to the soldiers who laid down their lives. It is a moving experience just walking there, reading the tombstones. Visit the War Museum in Kisama to learn more about the events.

And then it was back to the wilds of Kaziranga National Park in Assam, one of the best wildlife sanctuaries in India.

Facing Page: Fuschia !owersTop: Hornbill festival, Nagaland Above: Rhinoceros, Kaziranga, Assam

Watching rhino families – mother, father and baby – and otters was heart warming to say the least. Don’t miss out on paying a visit to the hoolock gibbons, the only variety of apes to be seen in south Asia. With its rich sighting of birds including Hornbills, Indian Roller, Jungle Fowl, Pheasants and more, the icing on the cake was well set.

So just hit the road and go! !

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The Maharajas’ Express is a luxury train that transports you to the days of the

royalty and unravels the varied tapestry that forms a backdrop to a majestic India.

Aboard the Maharajas’ Express

TEXT: IPSHITA BARUA

The Maharajas of India were a class apart. Living lives of extreme luxury they indulged in everything that fascinated them. Creating the equivalent of Elvis

Prestley’s, Graceland and Michael Jackson’s, Neverland in their majestic and magni!cent forts and palaces, they lived their lives surrounded by immense wealth. Emeralds, diamonds, rubies and sapphires !lled the royal treasure boxes. And every model of the world’s most expensive automobiles from custom made Rolls Royces to beautiful Bentleys adorned the royal garages. But their "ights of fancy did not stop at jewels and cars, it extended to acquiring anything that moved or "ew from aircraft to railway carriages that they decorated with the most ostentatious and opulent interiors.

In fact, Sir James Watt’s creation, the steam engine, enthralled the Indian royalty like nothing else did. Even their beloved motor cars fell by the wayside as they vied with each other to acquire these machines and turn them into the most luxurious modes of transport.

Maharaja Gaekwad not only gifted his son a toy train but installed a royal throne in his personal coach. The Nizam of Hyderabad’s private carriage was decorated with strips of ivory and solid gold and the Maharaja of Gwalior built a two mile rail track, in the palace grounds, for his little son to race around. The most fascinating of these objects of desire was the centre piece of the Maharaja of Gwalior’s banqueting table – a silver mini train which was used to dispense after dinner cigars and liquers.

Above left: Stained glass at Mehrangarh FortAbove right: Fine dining in a luxurious settingFacing page: Tiger, Ranthambore

Around 1880, the princely states took the initiative to build their own railway networks and the Raika Bagh Palace in Jodhpur was probably the !rst railway station in India. To give the traveller a taste of this royal indulgence and of seeing the splendour of India leisurely, from a railway carriage IRCTC and Cox and Kings India have created the Maharajas’ Express – the ultimate in luxury on wheels.

Combining old world charm and royal opulence with modern, eco- friendly amenities the train is equipped with every facet of ultra luxury living. With four exotic itineraries to choose from the Indian Railways gives you the best of exotic India. Travelling through India by train is one of the best ways to explore the varied tapestry of this majestic country. And here’s your chance of experiencing four different routes through the panoramic windows of the Maharajas’ express.

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PRINCELY INDIAThis is an eight days and seven nights tour that starts in Mumbai and ends in Delhi. An excellent journey that takes you through Western India, an area steeped in history and known for its spectacular architecture and monuments. Leaving the bustling city of Mumbai you arrive in the states of Gujarat and Rajasthan which are strewn with hill forts, palaces in the middle of surreal lakes and wildlife parks. You then go on to Agra and bask in the timeless beauty of the Taj Mahal and then on to Delhi, a historical city home to seven dynasties.

ROYAL INDIAA seven days and six nights, journey that takes you from Delhi to Mumbai. After exploring Delhi’s monuments, this trip takes you to Agra and the splendour of the Taj Mahal. At the end of witnessing Agra’s delights, a sumptuous dinner awaits atop a hillock overlooking the magni!cent Taj. The next stop is Jaipur

with its wonderful forts and palaces. In Jaipur you can participate in a boisterous elephant polo match and in Ranthambore National Park you could spot the elusive tiger. This exciting trip ends in Mumbai, India’s most happening metropolis.

CLASSICAL INDIAThis is a journey that starts in India’s capital Delhi and ends in the eastern city of Kolkata. After enjoying the ancient treasures of Delhi and Agra, you embark on an escapade to a slightly offbeat India. The trip takes you to Madhya Pradesh with the magni!cent fort at Gwalior and the renowned Khajuraho

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temple with its erotic stone sculptures. A stop at Bandavgarh may bring you up-close to the magni!cent Royal Bengal Tiger. You then move on to Varanasi, one of the oldest cities in the world, and enjoy the evening artis or prayers by the banks of the Ganga. The last stop Kolkata brings back memories of British India.

CELESTIAL INDIAKolkata, the city from where the British controlled their empire is where you start this journey. You then meander through the country to the old Buddhist and Hindu pilgrim centres of Gaya and Varanasi. Let loose the spiritual part of you. Enjoy the exquisite carvings at Khajuraho and walk down to a typical Indian village and experience life in rural India.This wonderful trip takes you through Gwalior and Agra ending in Delhi, the capital city.

The Maharajas’ Express will provide a view of India from the royal surroundings. Excellent cuisine, regal service and ultra luxurious accommodation will make these journeys an unforgettable experience. !

Facing page left: The Safari Bar Facing page right: Presidential SuiteFacing page below: A wonderful stopover at the TajRight: A luxurious carriage

51AN INDIAN JOURNEY March 2010

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M,!,#" TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHS: SOLANGE HANDO

A Himalayan Fairyland

Tucked at the northern end of the Kullu Valley, at around 2000 metres, the pretty hill station of Manali sits on the banks of the Beas river. All around are lush "elds and apple orchards, wooded slopes and to the north, snow"elds and glaciers glinting on the "rst Himalayan peaks.

High peaks around Manali

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In the clear mountain air, little disturbs the peace but the sound of waterfalls and temple bells. Couples from all over India come here on honeymoon. Among Manali’s

most revered temples is the 16th century shrine dedicated to the local deity Hadimba, wife of Bhima, the Pandava prince featured in the Mahabharata Hindu epic. Hadimba became patron of the Kullu royal family and a temple was built around the cave where she left her footprint. Every year in May, a fair is held in her honour with joyful parades, music and dance.

The temple is also called Dhungri, after the surrounding forest where it nestles in a cool grove of deodars. It’s a four-tiered wooden pagoda with a balcony above the entrance, a veranda on the lower sides and exquisite carvings on the lintels and quadruple door frame. Pilgrims come to pay their respect and ask for advice, ringing the bell to announce their arrival to the ‘Mother Goddess of the Valley’. Deer antlers and other offerings are draped on a nearby tree and true to Kullu tradition, animal sacri!ces are performed on the site to ward off evil.

Once known as the ‘end of the habitable world’, Manali owes its name to the seventh Manu sage who miraculously landed on these slopes during the Great Flood. His temple rises above Old Manali where beyond the backpackers’ lodges, life moves at a gentle pace, seemingly unchanged for centuries. Steep lanes wind around wooden houses with living quarters on the !rst "oor and cattle below, washing drying on the balconies, a gurgling fountain, piles of logs and freshly-picked apples and a traditional temple striped red and white. Now and then, marigolds and sun"owers whisper in the breeze.

It’s a world away from the New Town across the bridge

where the Manalsu river rushes down to the Beas. The bazaar is small but bustling with food stalls and garment shops. While men sell balloons and candy"oss, Tibetans make their way to the Thekcholing Gompa !lled with incense, frescoes and Buddha statues. The nearby stalls sell Tibetan jewellery and carpets, complimenting the traditional Kullu handicrafts of knitwear, circular Kulluvi caps and shawls, hand-woven in different types of wool and decorated with vivid patterns. Meanwhile in the shaded riverside park, newly weds dress up in traditional clothes for a photo shoot and knitting ladies do business, posing with angora rabbits. It’s a lovely place to stroll at the end of the day and if you are lucky, you might spot the bright blue plumage of a monal pheasant or the equally colourful but even rarer western tragopan.

In winter, Manali turns into a snow-clad fairyland, coming into its own at Carnival time with folk dance, classical music and street plays. Down south, Kullu town celebrates Dussehra, its greatest festival, in October, presided by the goddess Hadimba who comes down from Manali and the royal family. The Pal dynasty emerged in the Kullu Valley in the early 2nd century, changed their name to Singh around 1500, lost their power

Above: Honeybee Stone Temple, NaggarBelow: Hadimba Temple, ManaliFacing page above: Palchan, ManaliFacing page below: Kullu valley



under the British but remain an essential part of local culture. All over the land, the Kullu people uphold their heritage with pride in "amboyant festivals and rural fairs from Banjar to Naggar or Malana where villagers adorn themselves with yellow barley grass, especially grown for the occasion.

Once capital of the Kullu, Naggar is a quaint little place clinging to the hillside. The old castle has withstood the vagaries of time, a quiet oasis with a few hotel rooms and a courtyard with a weeping willow and cedar galleries carved with stylised lotus patterns glowing in the sun. In the upper courtyard is the Jagti Patt temple, home to the sacred ‘honeybee stone’ carried down from a nearby peak by the gods, in a swarm of bees. On the edge of the village in a garden blooming with roses and wisteria , you !nd the museum and former home of Roerich, a Russian exile who enjoyed painting the Himalayas. The views here are superb, cedar-covered slopes framing the valley with its silvery river, luminous !elds, a hamlet here and there, plum and apricot trees, baskets full of apples and sometimes great "ocks of sheep on their way to new pastures. Twice a year, they cross the snowline at 4,000 metres on the Rohtang pass. Up there, prayer "ags "utter in icy winds but there are food stalls galore, tinselled trucks and excited day trippers from Manali. They come to touch the snow and pray at the shrine where an ancient sage discovered the source of the Beas river. !Weaving a traditional Kullu shawl


56 AN INDIAN JOURNEY March 2010

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Buddhism in the High Mountains

Hemis is one of the best known Buddhist gompas or monasteries in Ladakh. Built in 1630 by Sengge Namgyal, a prominent ruler of Ladakh,

it was home to the Drukpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. One of the most famous festivals of this region, it is held here every year. The festival known as the Hemis festival is dedicated to Guru Pabmasambhava or Guru Rimpoche, sometimes known as the second Buddha. Every year on the tenth day of the Tibetan lunar month known as Tse-Chu, the people of this region come to Hemis to par ticipate in the festivities. Adorned in traditional dress and headgear, the locals lend a colourful backdrop to the brown Ladakhi landscape.

The sound of cymbals, pan drums, trumpets and large wind instruments !ll the air as the festivities begin in the main courtyard. Here ceremonial items are placed in an exquisitely painted table. The offerings contain holy water, uncooked rice, incense sticks and tormas. Tormas are intricate !gures made of "our and butter and used in tantric buddhism rituals

Above: Monks with their windpipes

as offerings. The ceremonies are presided over by the head lama. The most spectacular event in the festivities is the cham dances. Chams are performed only in monasteries that follow the tantric vajrayana form of buddhism. The dancers enact plays and stories in what seems like slow motion, that keep the audience mesmerised for hours.

Even though Hemis hosts the festival annually, the most important year for the festival is the Tibetan Year of the Monkey as Guru Pabmasambhava is believed to have been born in that year as predicted by the Shakyamuni Buddha. The Tibetan Year of the Monkey comes every twelve years and the year is believed to be very auspicious. The rituals and festivities are performed with even more fervour, but the most spectacular event is the unfurling of the two storey high tankha adorned with the portrait of Guru Pabmasabhava and decorated with pearls and semi precious stones. The ceremony takes place early in the morning. Amidst the sounds of long horns and drums the magni!cent tankha is unrolled from the top of the monastery. Indeed an amazing spectacle. !

TEXT: IPSHITA BARUA


B**7 R+-"+32HIMALAYA : LENS AND PASSION

Author: Ashok DilwaliPublisher: Kinsey BrosPhotographer Ashok Dilwali reveals the many marvels of the Himalayas, captured during his countless visits to the mountains. Like a moth to a "ame, this photographer braves the erratic weather over and over again to bring back photographs that truly speak a thousand words. Rather than beautiful words illustrated by pictures, here is an anthology of beautiful pictures illustrated by words.Each photograph shows you the Himalayas in a way that you have never seen before. From spectacular landscapes to those smaller details that we tend to forget, Dilwali uses artistry and opportune moments to encapsulate what he has seen. His remarkable skill shows through beautifully in the dramatic lighting and bold colours. Like the best artists, he has total control over his material without taking away the delicate abstraction of nature. Explore the Himalayas through the eyes of an artist with honest love for the mountains.True to his title, these photographs bring the lens and passion together as one.

BOOK REVIEW BY TROYEE BARUA DUTTA

FORGOTTEN DILLI - PORTRAIT OF AN IMMORTAL CITY

Text & photographs: Sasmita S. Akhtar & Shamim AkhtarPublisher: Nishcam Publication

Delhi is a city replete with tradition and culture. It has seen the rise and fall of several dynasties and the surviving witness to these are innumerable monuments, most of them in ruins and the rest in the process of being so. The endeavor is to take the reader on a time travel through black and white and monochrome infra-red pictures. The narration is made on a time-line where the pictures and the text compliment each other. The book is restricted to just one phase of history in a particular part of India but the desire is to generalise the feeling and instill the fact that India is indeed incredible and let each of us contribute in keeping it so! Price: Rs. 4,500/-, pp. 186, HB, Coffee Table Book

IMAGINING INDIA: IDEAS FOR THE NEW COUNTRY

Author: Nandan NilekaniPublisher: Penguin Allen Lane Infosys’ co-founder Nandan Nilekani, who has been a key player in India’s growth story, points out that the country’s future rests on more than simply economic growth; it also depends on reform and innovation in all sectors of public life. Looking closely at India’s recent history, he examines the ideas and attitudes that evolved with the times

and contributed to the country’s progress, as well as those that kept it shackled to old, unproductive and fundamentally undemocratic ways. He discusses how India’s early socialist policies, despite good intentions and astonishing idealism, sti"ed growth and weakened democracy; how, contrary to received wisdom, the country’s large and overwhelmingly young population has now become its greatest strength; how information technology is revolutionising not just business but also governance in the everyday life of a vast majority of Indians; and how rapid urbanisation is transforming both society and politics.Price: Rs. 699/-, pp. 531, HB, Non-Fiction

BOOK REVIEWS BY SANTANU GANGULY

Ã indian reviews


THE ZOYA FACTOR

Author: Anuja ChauhanPublisher: HarperCollinsWhen the younger players in India’s cricket team learnt that mid-level advertising executive Zoya Singh Solanki was born at the exact moment that India clinched the World Cup in ’83, they were intrigued; when eating breakfast with her was followed by victories on the !eld, they were impressed; and when not eating with her resulted in defeat, they were convinced she’s their lucky charm. Between them and the eccentric IBCC president, they coax Zoya to accompany the Indian team to Australia for the tenth ICC World on an all-expenses-paid holiday, on condition that she breakfast with them before every match…Worshipped by her Indian fans, and vili!ed by the other competing teams, Zoya struggles valiantly to do her bit for Indian cricket in the thick of the World Cup action. It doesn’t help that she keeps clashing with the erratically brilliant new skipper Nikhil Khoda who tells her "atly that he doesn’t believe in luck…

AUTUMN IMPASSE

Author: Aniruddha RahaPublisher: Punascha Publisher

Autumn Impasse is a journey of a solitary girl, Louise, who turns out to be a woman in a silent spectacle of a turbulent time. Naively tunes into the beauty of music and subtle emotions, she takes her stroll through a world that experiences tears and blood. In her dream she wonders through the colour of an autuåmn forest where she meets her dream man. Doused in enticing urge to be within a family, Louise remains waiting within a cosmic emptiness that !nds its place in timeless eternity.Price: Rs. 200/-, pp. 176, PB, Fiction

Ãindian reviews


M%2"/ R+-"+32MUSIC REVIEWS BY SANTANU GANGULY

TRIBUTE TO SAROD MAESTRO

Artists: Ustad Ali Akbar KhanA doyen of Maihar Gharana, Ustad Ali Akbar Khan, one of the most accomplished Indian classical musicians is designated a ‘Living National Treasure’ in India. Yehudi Menuhin hailed him as ‘the greatest musician in the world’. The CD 1 contains Raga Chandranandan recorded in 1962 is typically a Maihar Gharana Raga. Making this CD special are the plethora of Ragas and Ustad Zakir Hussain’s accompaniment in the concluding Raga Durgeshwari. The CD 2 contains the morning Raga Todi is followed by Raga Lajwanti, yet another favourite of Maihar Gharana. The concluding Raga Sindhu Bhairavi is an alap in Thumri style and is a jugalbandi with legendary Pt. Ravi Shankar. Both Khan saheb and Panditji represent the last few legendary artistes who brought forth their genius and have given Indian Classical Music its due on the world stage.Music Saregama, Price: Rs. 450/-

RHYTHM OF LOVE - CHARUKESHI LIVE IN SAN FRANCISCO

Artists: Rahul Sharma & Zakir Husain Parichay - Rhythm of Love - Charukeshi Live in San Francisco featuring Rahul Sharma on santoor and Ustad Zakir Husain on tabla. The pack includes a write up by Rahul Sharma. A whirlwind tour of key cities in the US, an exciting road trip with Zakir Husain at the wheel and Rahul Sharma navigating, a magical concert at San Francisco - these are the ingredients that come together in this special live recording. Enjoy the entire raga Charukeshi, with Rahul Sharma playing a deeply romantic composition created by his father, the legendary Pandit Shivkumar Sharma. Zakir Husain’s expert touch on the tabla ensures that this is an unforgettable performance, now captured for posterity on CD.Music: Saregama, Price: Rs. 225/-

3 CITIES, BOMBAY DUB ORCHESTRA

Artists: Bob Marley, Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan & Bebel GilbertoStep into the sound of 3 Cities, Bombay Dub Orchestra’s sophomore release, and experience the crossroads where Mumbai, Chennai, and London musically meet. Since the release of their self-titled debut, the name Bombay Dub Orchestra (consisting of

composer/producers Garry Hughes and Andrew T. Mackay) has built quite a reputation. From main-stage performances at the UK’s Big Chill Festival and Djing across the globe, scoring feature !lms to remixing such world-renowned artists as Bob Marley, Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan, and Bebel Gilberto, fans and critics have been eagerly awaiting their next album. For 3 Cities, both Hughes and Mackay traveled to Mumbai and Chennai to record with the cities’ premier musicians and vocalists before returning to London to mix the album.Music: Saregama

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TRIBUTE TO THE LEGEND DR. GANGUBAI HANGAL - CLASSICAL VOCAL

Dr. Gangubai’s uncompressing attitude towards music makes her the only purist of the Kirana Gharana. She steadfastly stuck to her beliefs and only sang classical music. She was born in Dharwad on 5th March 1913 and was initiated into music by her mother Ambabai, took her early training under Hulgur Krishnacharya. Being the senior most disciple of Pt. Sawai Gandharva she presented her music with utmost devotion thus making her a doyen of

Kirana Gharana. Her Majestic and pliable voice allowed her to express the range and subtitles of a raga with utmost ease and great impact. All the tracks from the CD 1 are 78 RPM recording and CD 2 contains raga Abhogi considered a masterpiece of the Kirana Gharana.Music Saregama, Price: Rs. 299/-

HANDPICKED LOVE SONGS FOR YOU Artists: Various legendary artists This album does not have any track from The Japanese Wife but Aparna Sen the director of the !lm - The Japanese Wife: A Love Poem, handpicked immortal love songs from old Hindi !lms for audiences. The carefully curated album contains all the legendary singers of Hindi !lms - Kishore Kumar, Manna Dey, Lata Mangeshkar, Asha Bhosle, Md. Ra!, Mukesh, Hemant Kumar, Geeta Dutt and Talat Mahmood, with songs like- Tum pukar lo tumhara intezar hai, Tere bina zindegi se siqwa, Rimjhim gire sawan, Raina Beeti jaye…etc.

Music Saregama, Price: Rs. 299/-

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K,#+"5*2/*0+ INDIA

For more information contact [email protected]

H*)20*)2

Dr Mehta’s HospitalDr. Mehta’s Hospital, in Chennai is amongst the leading Multi-Specialty and Super-Specialty Hospital with over 200 beds that blend modern medical technology with the art of healing. The hospital has been around for the last 75 years, starting as Dr Mehta Nursing Home. Dr Mehta’s Multi-Specialty Hospital is now a Tier1 Tertiary Care Hospital offering patient management programmes across 60 paediatric and adult medical, surgical and diagnostic specialties and super-specialties. Many leading doctors, surgeons, specialists, super-specialists and medical practitioners practice or consult with us.Mehta Day Care Clinic, in T Nagar is a medical and surgical day-care centre, combining out-patient consultation and diagnostic facilities for both adult and paediatrics. The centre provides day-care surgeries across a range of specialties and super-specialties. MDC has a dialysis and chemotherapy centre targeted at providing you comfort.

Hotel Madhuban HighlandsA luxury hotel located 500 meters from the library, close to the mall yet away from the city. The only centrally air conditioned hotel in Mussoorie with on site parking.The entertainment area offers a choice of games for children. There is a fully equipped gymnasium and spa. Spacious rooms and suites come with independent balconies. All rooms are equipped with mini bars, coffee makers, phones, TV and wi-! access. A multi cuisine restaurant offers an array of dishes.The conference room is supported by all the latest audio-visuals and business aides.With easy accessibility by road clubbed with the calm ambience and friendly services the MADHUBAN HIGHLANDS is the perfect destination for an ideal getaway for leisure or business.Special packages offered for the summer

For more information contact [email protected]

Vista Park GroupVista Park Group, the hospitality arm of Value Homz Group, will open two more hotels in Gurgaon this year. Vista Wood will be launched by June 2010, while Vista Signature will come up by November 2010. Vista Wood will be designed as corporate hotel. Vista Signature will be a 33-room property. The hotel will be equipped with modern facilities, including a business centre, !ne dining restaurant and spa/gym. V P Singh, Corporate General Manager, Vista Park Hotels said, “We will be diversifying into the hospitality segment in a big way in the coming years. There are plans to construct hotels with larger room inventories in the future.” The Group already owns and operates a boutique hotel – Vista Park, in Gurgaon. This hotel has a multi-cuisine restaurant, bar and a banquet/conference area. Besides, the Group has plans to develop a new hotel near Manesar and on Sohna Road.

For more information [email protected]

Ã indian hotspots

66 AN INDIAN JOURNEY March 2010

Business Travel gets a Makeover...

Each month, 32,000 copies of MICE go out to corporates, international trade associations and the travel industry in general.

With the Indian corporate world opening up to new experiences in terms of meetings and conventions,

MICEtalk gets talking on the !nest ideas in business travel. Innovative, magni!cent, spectacular are some

of the superlatives that these exploits attract. Intended as a guide for business travellers, MICEtalk is a

testimony to how prominent a place India is coming to occupy on the MICE map.

For more information, please contact: [email protected] or [email protected]

Syna Tiger ResortIndia’s forest tourism sector gets it’s newest and most exciting super-luxury resort, at Bandhavgarh, Madhya Pradesh. SYNA TIGER RESORT - a venture of M.P.’s rapidly-expanding Syna Group of Companies, is an exclusive retreat that would cater to the elite tourist. Promoted by the dynamic father-son duo of Sri Satyendra Pathak and Mr Sanjay Pathak - who are Madhya Pradesh’s leading philanthropists - Syna is an unmatched destination to experience luxury and the thrill of watching tigers in the wild, at the world’s top tiger spotting zone. On offer also - exclusively from Syna - is a unique night safari within tiger country, in a private forest area! Syna features magni!cient lodges and world-class amenities, and is built around a philosophy of offering the very best hospitality while being eco-conscious. As one of the world’s most exclusive retreats of it’s kind, it is the perfect getaway.

For more information, please contact: [email protected]

For more information, please contact:[email protected]

Prowez A creation of Duggal Brothers, established manufacturers of Travel Accessories based in New Delhi since 1968, Prowez offers you the latest and only the best in Travel accessories.

Air Ticket Jackets, Passport Covers, Travel Bags, Baggage Tags, Placards, Caps, and Shoe Covers - you name it and we have it. Quality products in leather, arti!cial or otherwise, plastic etc. that can be customized according to your needs with exclusive designs to match only the best in the industry - Prowez has a no-nonsense attitude when it comes to making travel a worthwhile experience.

Encourage your clients to experience the joy of traveling the Prowez way! For, with their travel essentials safely and stylishly tucked away in their Prowez pocket the only thing to do is sit back and enjoy the journey…

For more information, please contact:[email protected],

[email protected]

Ilbert Manor (Heritage)Ilbert Manor (Heritage) in Mussorie, Uttarakhand welcomes travellers with wonderful summer packages. So get away from the heat of the plains and head for the cool mountain air. Ilbert Manor packages are for two nights and three days, extendable on a pro-rata basis. The packages include a welcome drink on arrival, breakfast and dinner for two. Tea and coffee maker in the room, laundry facilities, two children below six can share their parents room for free. The Victorian package costs Rs. 8999, Imperial, Rs. 9999. The cottages are for Rs. 10999 and Suites, Rs. 14999.

KSM Hotel Connections India Pvt. Ltd.Marketing Consultants & Representatives12/7, L.G.F, West Patel Nagar, New Delhi - 110008,Website : www.hotelconnectionsindia.com , www.ksm-hci.com

Kolu Houseboats, SrinagarEver dreamt of staying on a lake and sailing on it? Well, here is a good news for those intending to go to Kashmir. Kolu Houseboats, which is a part of Travel Excellence of Kashmir, has been awarded “The best deluxe luxury house boat” in Srinagar.It was established by Mohd. Kolu in 1940 and extends hospitality to its visitors with their houseboats and shikaras which are seen in large numbers parked along the Dal lake, Nagin lake and Jhelum river. Kolu Houseboats have 62 well-furnished rooms with wall-to-wall Kashmir carpets, separate dressing rooms and attached washrooms !tted with modern amenities.It also has a 24-hour room service, a 24-hour attendant for every houseboat, a telephone and a cable TV in every houseboat. For details contact: Hilal A KoluCell: 9811146774Phones: +91 9811146774/91, +91-11-29814080Fax: +91-11-29814081

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“The Indian way of life provides the vision of the natural, real way of life. We veil ourselves with unnatural masks. On the face of India are the tender expressions which carry the mark of the Creator’s hand.”GEORGE BERNARD SHAW, IRISH PLAYWRIGHT (1856–1950)

Ã indian endnote

Postal Registration No.:DL(ND)-11/6141/2009-10-11,

Licensed to Post without Pre-Payment No.: U(C)-44/2010-11

for posting on 25th – 26th of advance month at New Delhi P.S.O.

RNI No.:DELENG/2008/26217

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An Indian Journey