Alt Àneu

IÑAKI ALCORTA

Alt ÀneuWALKING IN THE TERRITORY OF

THE BEAR OF THE PYRENEES

Alt Àneu

Walking in the territory of the Bear of the Pyrenees

IÑAKI ALCORTA

DEDICATION

To my children Asier, Núria and Aitor

ACKOWLEDGEMENTS

I want to thank the Department d’Agricultura, Ramaderia, Pesca, Alimentació i Medi Natural of the Generalitat de Catalunya (the government of Catalonia) for the authorization to include in this guide the picture of the female bear Caramelles with two cubs, taken by an automatic camera in the mountains of Alt Àneu in summer 2010.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR I was born in 1963 in Eibar (Basque Country). I studied in Pamplona and I live and work in Barcelona since 1988. I am a Medical Doctor, Specialist in Haematology. As a mountaineer I have made numerous ascents and treks in the mountains of the Basque Country, the Cordillera Cantábrica, the Pyrenees, the Alps, the Andes, Africa and New Guinea. I am married and I have 3 children, who are 1, 10 and 12 years old at present, with whom I enjoy the mountains as never before. I have written some twenty scientific articles in medical journals, but this is my first mountain guide. I am a member of the Club Deportivo de Eibar and the Unió Excursionista Sant Martí de Provençals (UESMAP).

TABLE OF CONTENTS

PREFACE.................................................................................................. 13

INTRODUCTION .................................................................................. 15

Alt Àneu...................................................................................................... 15

The Bear of the Pyrenees. ........................................................................ 19

Climbing with children ............................................................................. 21

PRACTICAL INFORMATION ........................................................... 25

Getting there .............................................................................................. 25

When to go................................................................................................. 25

Accommodation........................................................................................ 26

Services ....................................................................................................... 26

Taxis ............................................................................................................ 26

Maps ............................................................................................................ 27

Weather Information ................................................................................ 27

Environmental regulations....................................................................... 27

Regulation of motorized traffic............................................................... 28

In case of an encounter with a bear... .................................................... 28

... and with guarding-dogs. ....................................................................... 29

To learn more about the Bear of the Pyrenees..................................... 30

MAP OF ITINERARIES........................................................................ 33

WALKS ...................................................................................................... 37

Pic de Quartiules (2226m) ....................................................................... 39

Pic del Pinetó (2647m) ............................................................................. 42

Lo Tésol (2700m)...................................................................................... 46

Pui de la Bonaigua (2778m)..................................................................... 50

Pic de Bassiero Oriental (2897m) ........................................................... 54

Tuc de la Cigalera (2497m) ...................................................................... 59

Cap del Muntanyó d’Àrreu (2630m) ...................................................... 63

Pic de la Plana (2493m)............................................................................ 67

Pic de Rosari (2608m) .............................................................................. 71

Pic de Pilàs (2657m) ................................................................................. 75

Tuc de Bonabé (2723m)........................................................................... 79

Pic de Qüenca (2639m)............................................................................ 84

Pic des Miques (2492m) ........................................................................... 88

Mont-roig (2864m) ................................................................................... 92

Pic de Montalt (2495m)............................................................................ 97

Pic de Gel (2499m) ................................................................................. 101

Pic de Vinyals (2398m)........................................................................... 105

Pic de Clavera (2721m) .......................................................................... 109

Bony de la Mina (2279m)....................................................................... 114

Pic de Moredo (2766m) ......................................................................... 118

SUMMARY OF ASCENTS.................................................................. 123

DICTIONARY OF CATALAN TOPOGRAPHIC TERMS........ 127

PREFACE

PREFACE

This book is not a comprehensive and encyclopaedic compilation of all the mountains of Alt Àneu with all climbing routes and possible variations. Nor is it a naturalist or a tourist guide. It is just a personal selection of high mountain itineraries in Alt Àneu, chosen either for their beauty or mountaineer interest or because they are suitable for families climbing with children. In fact, I have done about half of the routes with my children and this guide invites other families to do so.

None of the routes described in this guide presents technical difficulties and all are suitable for any average walker. In some cases, the distance and height difference make it necessary to be in good shape to tackle the climb.

View from the top of Tuc de Bonabé

Whether we do a short walk with our children or whether we venture into its most remote corners, Alt Àneu will surprise us by its great landscapes, its preserved nature, its fauna and its loneliness, as these mountains hardly appear in hikers’ guides or in the lists of the collectors of prestigious

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summits. Walking there, however, we will perceive the essence of the Pyrenees.

Cap del Muntayó d’Àrreu and Estany de Garrabea

INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION Alt Àneu

The Àneu valleys are located in the northern end of Pallars Sobirá, in the

confines of Catalonia, embedded between the Aran valley to the west, the Cardós valley to the east and the Ariège (France) to the north, in the very heart of the Catalan Pyrenees. Administratively, the Àneu valleys consist of four municipalities: Alt Àneu, Esterri d’Àneu, La Guingueta d’Àneu and Espot.

The municipality of Alt Àneu was created in 1970 grouping the villages of Alós d’Isil, Isil, Sorpe, Borén, Àrreu, Isavarre, Son and Valencia d’Àneu, which is the capital. In 2010 Alt Àneu had 446 inhabitants. The municipality has an area of 217.8 km2 at an altitude ranging from 1000m at the confluence

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of the Noguera Pallaresa River with the Bonaigua River, up to 2903m at Pic de Bassiero Occidental.

The village of Isil ready for the ‘falles’

The territory of Alt Àneu is shaped by the valleys of the Bonaigua and the Noguera Pallaresa rivers. Both rivers converge approximately 1 km upstream of Esterri d’Àneu and separate 3 mountain areas.

South of the Bonaigua River, lying in an east/west direction, we find the

mountains of the northern region of the Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park from the Serra del Pago to the Serra de Saboredo, with their characteristic granitic, shattered and abrupt nature. In this sector, opening northbound, there are the Cabanes and Gerber valleys and the magnificent fir forests of the Mata de Valencia and the Gerdar de Sorpe, surely among the most prominent ones of the Pyrenees and the entire Iberian Peninsula.

Between the two rivers there is the great massif of Marimanya, of granitic

nature too but with smoother relief, extensive areas of alpine meadows and

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beautiful hidden lakes such as the Estanys de Rosari, Airoto and Garrabea. In this massif we find the original peaks of Qüenca and Moredo, with calcareous summits with quartzite inlaids that shine in the sun and make them easily identifiable from a distance.

View from Pui de la Bonaigua to the SW

Finally, enclosing the Noguera Pallaresa to the east lies the Serra de Pilàs up to Mont-roig, where a range of mountains continues in NW direction limiting with France to the border with the Aran valley. The mountains of this area have extensive and almost impenetrable forests on their basis and steep slopes of alpine meadows in the highest parts, capped in some sectors (Estanyardo, Mostiri-Mulats, Cunyes d’Aulà-Muntanyola, Cernalla) by quite abrupt rock sections.

Alt Àneu, in the north end of Pallars Sobirá, enjoys a Mediterranean

Pyrenean climate. Rainfall varies from 700 mm annually in the valleys to over 1,000 mm in the headwaters. The period of the year with more rainfall is usually from April to June, with another peak around November. The winters are very cold and summers are mild in the valleys and cool in the

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mountains. In July and August maximum temperatures often exceed 30 °C in the valleys and 20 °C in the high mountain, but the evenings are cool and pleasant.

The peaks of Qüenca and Moredo

Like elsewhere in the Pyrenees, the traditional economic activities in Alt Àneu had been livestock farming and forestry. In recent decades, skiing, adventure sports, tourism in general, improved communications and the real estate boom have changed the physiognomy of its villages and the lifestyle of its inhabitants, today dedicated mainly to the tertiary sector.

Despite these changes and the ease of access to the mountains of Alt

Àneu (the walks that we report start directly from the villages in the valley or require short approaches by car), they have maintained their solitude and their character of well preserved and remote territory.

The inclusion of much of its territory in the peripheral zone of the

Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park and in the Alt Pirineu

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Natural Park and the presence, permanent throughout the year, of the brown bear clearly shows the quality of the habitat of these mountains.

Estany d’Airoto

The Bear of the Pyrenees The brown bear (Ursus arctos) has lived in the Pyrenees for thousands of

years. The bear is present in the toponyms, shields, legends and traditions of many corners of our mountains. It is part of the Pyrenean culture.

Relentlessly chased for generations, shot and poisoned, the last native

bears of Catalonia probably disappeared in the late 80’s or early 90’s of the last century. Alejandro Gamarra, keeper of the Certascan Refuge, reported having seen one of the last bears in 1987. Around the same time, Albert Ibáñez and his colleagues from the Vallferrera Refuge began the study and monitoring of the presence of bears in that valley with a view to their possible recovery. Some authors discuss possible evidences of the presence of bears in the Aran valley and Pallars Sobirá between 1990 and 1995.

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A few years later, the bear returned to these mountains with the Brown Bear Restoration and Conservation Plan of the French government that carried out the reintroduction of specimens from Slovenia. As a result of the reintroductions of 1996-97 and 2006, today the Aran and Àneu valleys with the neighbouring French departments of Haute Garonne and Ariège host a meagre (around 15-20 individuals) but of high potential bear population, given the presence of at least 10 females: Hvala, Caramelles, S1SLO5 / Caramellita, Pollen, Bambou, Nhèu, Noissete, the two cubs of Bambou born in 2010 (named Florete and Fadeta in 2011) and one of the cubs of Caramelles born in 2010 (named Plume in 2011). The veteran female Ziva (reintroduced in 1996) has shown no sign of life since 2008 and the apparently sterile Sarousse (reintroduced in 2006) seems to have settled in the Aragonese Ribagorza.

The female Caramelles with two cubs in the mountains of Alt Àneu in 2010. © Departament de Medi Ambient i Habitatge. Generalitat de Catalunya

Three of these females (Hvala, Caramelles and Bambou) have raised 11 cubs over the past 4 years. The veteran male Pyros, reintroduced in 1997 is the father of most of the litters, which may pose a risk for the long-term

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viability of the population of bears in the Pyrenees because of inbreeding. However, during the summer of 2011 another big male (Balou, reintroduced in 2006) seems to have established in the same territory as Pyros, whom it may replace as dominant male.

Both Pyros as Caramelles and their offspring frequent the mountains of

Alt Àneu. There are also 2 males in the Western Pyrenees (Bearn, Ansó, Hecho,

Roncal) but it is clear that without the reintroduction of females this 'population' has no future. In the Eastern Pyrenees (Haute Ariège, Aude, Cerdanya) no sign of the 4 bears present in this region during the previous years has been detected in 2011. Balou, and probably also U6SLO14 / Moonboots have moved to the Central Pyrenees and the others (Kouki, Boutxy) have been probably poached.

The purpose of this guide is not to go to Alt Àneu to watch bears (which

almost certainly will never happen), but to invite the reader to visit and to walk in one of the most beautiful and best preserved regions of the Pyrenees. The hidden presence of the bear will fill with mystery and excitement our walks and will be an added incentive for our children to join us. Climbing with children

I have made most of the ascents in this guide between 2008 and 2011 with my children Núria and Asier, who are currently 10 and 12 years old. With this guide I want also to encourage other parents to climb mountains with their children and to go beyond the typical walk to a waterfall or a lake.

In addition to the health value of physical activity outdoors, climbing

stimulates the ability to overcome oneself, promotes awareness of own limits, increases physical and mental endurance, and develops our knowledge, love and respect for the land we live on. In a society in which everything pretends to be done ‘without effort’' (learning languages without effort, losing weight without effort, paying without effort ...), the mountains teach our children that effort is necessary to achieve our goals.

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For the adults, walking at a child’s pace and watching through child eyes will allow us to better appreciate and enjoy the natural richness of our mountains.

It is difficult to give general rules about what type of climb is suitable on

the basis of age. In fact, our children have climbed the same mountains being 2 years apart. Every parent knows their children and knows where they can reasonably get to, though often we underestimated them and they are able to do much more than we think.

Asier and Núria in Alt Àneu, August 2010

Based on our experience, we think that walks of up to 300m height difference, representing an ascent of 1h - 1h 30min are suitable for children 4 -7 years old. Those involving from 300 to 700m height difference (a 2h - 2h 30min ascent) are suitable for children aged 7 - 10 years, while those with more than 700m height difference and at least 3 hours of ascent are appropriate only for children over 10.

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To hike in the high mountain with our children we must choose a meteorologically optimal day, bring appropriate clothing and footwear, carry enough water and food and we must not try objectives above our abilities. We must remember that the high mountain is not the park. If we do not follow the rules we can be damaged, injured or something worse. We also should know that in many places there is no mobile phone coverage and help, if needed, may be slow to arrive. In places exposed to some danger we should be attentive to the movements of our children, guide them and, if necessary, help them.

These walks are to be done in summer, when the days are longer and the

weather milder. However, summer can also be very hot in the mountains. It is advisable not to have mercy on our children (and on ourselves) to set the alarm clock. If we start the climb at daybreak, we will go up lighter in the cool of the morning, we will have more than enough time to walk calmly and to enjoy the route and we still will have time to manoeuvre if the unexpected happens. We will also have more opportunities to spot the abundant but elusive wildlife of Alt Àneu (deer, roe deer, fallow deer, hares, wild boars, partridges, chamois…). In the mountains we will never regret starting the walk early, but we will regret almost always doing it late.

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The Marimanya Massif

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

PRACTICAL INFORMATION Getting there

The nearest international airports are Toulouse (France) and Barcelona.

In 2010 a new airport was opened in Lleida, but at present it has very few connections.

There are two road accesses to Alt Àneu, one from the Aran Valley

across the Bonaigua Pass and the other one from Sort, along the Noguera Pallaresa River valley.

From the Basque Country and France the most direct access is via the

Aran valley, which is reached along the A-64 and N-125 French roads. From Barcelona (240km) although there are several alternatives to reach

Sort, probably the most comfortable one is along the A-2, C-14 and L-512 roads through Tàrrega and Isona to Tremp and then along the C-13.

For those coming from the centre of Spain the most obvious route is via

Lleida to Sort (125km) and then along the C-13 road. The ALSA Company runs a bus line to Esterri d’Àneu from Lleida (3

hours) and from Barcelona (5 hours). To check timetables and fares and to book a ticket, visit their website: www.alsa.es.

Since 2010, during the summer months, a bus service operated by Alsina

Graells makes a tour around the Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park linking the Boí valley, Pont de Suert, Vielha, Esterri d’Àneu, Llavorsí, and Sort. More information on the website of Parcs de Catalunya (www.gencat.cat/parcs ) or at the phones (34) 973 69 61 89 (Boi) and (34) 973 62 40 36 (Espot). When to go

The recommended season for walks in Alt Àneu is between May and October. In early May there may still be quite snow in the mountains, which hardens and lengthens the climbs and makes it necessary to bring the appropriate equipment (ice axes, crampons). By the end of October days are short, weather is more variable, temperatures drop and it frequently snows.

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Winter is the high season for skiers and snowshoers and Alt Àneu and the

neighbouring valleys offer a wide range of ski resorts (Baqueira-Beret, Espot Esquí, Port Ainé, Tavascan), as well as off-piste skiing and winter mountaineering possibilities that are beyond the scope of this guide.

Accommodation

Alt Àneu and the neighbouring La Guingueta and Esterri d’Àneu have a

wide and varied range of accommodation of all types: hotels, apartments, pensions, rural accommodation and campsites.

Lleidatur, the official site of Tourism of Lleida, has developed a

comprehensive accommodation search engine (www.lleidatur.com). Supplementary information can be found on the websites of the Valls d’Àneu Tourism Consortium (www.vallsdaneu.org) and the Municipality of Alt Àneu (altaneu.ddl.net ).

Tourist apartments can also be found on holiday rental specialised

websites (www.niumba.com, es.rentalia.com). Services

In Esterri d’Àneu, the major town of the Àneu Valleys, we can find all the

services to meet our needs: supermarkets, hardware store, laundry, banks and ATM, pharmacy, general practitioner, swimming pool, petrol station, garage, tourism office, adventure sports companies, mountain guides, mountain bike centre, riding centre, etc.

In Sort (34km) there is a primary care clinic (Ambulatori) with 24-hour

service and a police station (Mossos d'Esquadra, the police of Catalonia). The nearest hospitals are in Vielha (40km across the Bonaigua Pass) and Tremp (75km). Taxis

It may be helpful to hire a local taxi (usually 4WD vans) for a forest track

approach in some of the routes of this guide if we do not own a 4WD vehicle, or to arrange a pick-up if we finish the route far from our starting point. Updated contact information can be found on the websites of the

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above mentioned Valls d’Àneu Tourism Consortium and the Municipality of Alt Àneu. Maps

The most detailed map covering this area is the 1:25,000 topographic map

"Parc Natural de l’Alt Pirineu NW (Vall d’Àneu, Mont-roig)" of the Cartographic Institute of Catalonia (www.icc.es). For climbs in the southern sector of Alt Àneu it is also useful the “Parc Natural d’Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici” 1:25,000 map published by Editorial Alpina (www.editorialalpina.com).

The heights and toponyms used in this guide are those of the

Cartographic Institute of Catalonia and the Nomenclàtor Oficial de Toponímia Major of the Generalitat de Catalunya (government of Catalonia) and the Institut d’Estudis Catalans. Weather Information

For the weather forecast we recommend checking the Meteorological

Service of Catalonia on the Internet (www.meteocat.com), which provides a detailed weather forecast for the Pyrenees (Headings: Predicció, Predicció al Pirineu), as well as data from the automatic weather station of La Bonaigua (2266m) updated every half hour (Dades meteorològiques, XEMA).

The French Weather Service provides on its website

(www.meteofrance.com) a forecast for mountain regions (Headings: Montagne, Pyrénées Est) and data from the weather station of the Port d’Aulà (2140m) updated daily (Relevé de haute montagne, Pyrénées Est, Port d’Aula - Couserans). Environmental regulations

Many of the walks in this guide pass through protected natural areas. It is

our duty to behave responsibly and respectfully with the natural values of the territory and to comply with the protection regulations. The general recommendations when visiting a National or a Natural Park are as follows:

- It is totally forbidden to light fires, except in the authorized rest

areas with barbecues with spark arresters.

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- Flora must be respected. It is not allowed to pick any plant or vegetable.

- Wildlife and their habitats must be respected. It is forbidden to capture or to disturb the animals, except hunting species in approved places and with appropriate permissions.

- Do not collect rocks or other minerals. They are also protected. - Respect private property. Do not tread on cultivated fields. - Potentially dangerous dogs must be on a lead, because they that can

harm livestock and the protected wildlife. - Avoid unnecessary noise that might disturb the peace of natural

spaces and affect wildlife. - Bring your rubbish and deposit it in appropriate containers. Do not

litter the landscape we all enjoy. - Remember that it is prohibited to camp in the National Parks. In the

Alt Pirineu Natural Park it is allowed to overnight in tents from 20:00 h to 8:00 h above 2000m of altitude. Outside of these hours no tent can be set up.

- Respect signs and other information infrastructure of the Natural Parks.

- Keep in mind that at all times the indications of rural police agents and Natural Park staff must be followed.

Regulation of motorized traffic

None of us likes to see 4WDs on the mountain when we hike, but we

must recognize that these vehicles allow us to shorten the duration and the height climbed of some walks. This is particularly interesting if we go with children, as it will enable us to access to places and make ascents that would otherwise be unfeasible.

Since early 2011 a municipal regulation of Alós d’Isil has established the

closing of the main track from El Fornet Refuge to Montgarri from November 1st until June 1st. It has also been completely prohibited the circulation of vehicles throughout the year on the tracks running from the Pont de Perosa to Salau and to the Ras de Bonabé (track to Peipicat mines). In case of an encounter with a bear...

Encountering a bear is a very exceptional situation as these animals are

very scarce, discreet and they avoid humans. They have an extraordinary

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sense of smell, good hearing and a mediocre sight. If they notice our presence they will seek to avoid us. The French Office National de la Chasse et Faune Sauvage (ONCFS) has edited a brochure with recommendations for hikers, whose key messages are:

- Help the bear to detect your presence by making a little noise. - Do not ever follow the traces of a bear. - Never attempt to approach a bear, alone or accompanied by cubs,

even though it is at a great distance. - If walking with dogs, keep them on a lead with you preventing them

to wander and to provoke the bear. In case of an encounter at close range (less than 50m):

- Show calmly, speak and move quietly to help the bear to detect and to identify you.

- Move away gradually, avoiding the path that the bear would take to flee.

- Do not run. - If the bear stands up, it is not a sign of aggression, but it is trying to

better detect and smell us. ... and with guarding-dogs.

More likely than encountering a bear is meeting a guarding-dog. These large dogs are born and raised in the sheepfold and establish deep social bonding with the sheep, developing a protective instinct towards them. The appearance of any foreign element puts the dog on its guard. It will come up and sniff us to identify us. It can approach and bark to intimidate us and even, if it feels that the flock is in danger, it can attack. Another ONCFS brochure details the actions to take if we meet guarding-dogs:

- Keep your distance. - Make a wide detour to avoid the area where the ships are grazing or

resting. - Avoid behaviours (like trying to caress, take or photograph a lamb)

that the dog may interpret as an attack. - If it comes face to face with you, behave in a calm and passive

manner to reassure him. If you feel intimidated turn away slowly.

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- If walking with your dogs, keep them on a lead at all times and maintain a safe distance from the herd (150 - 200m).

- If you are cycling, dismount before approaching a flock. To learn more about the Bear of the Pyrenees

The ‘Casa del Oso’ (House of the Bear) of Isil, an initiative of the municipality of Alt Àneu and the NGO Acció Natura in collaboration with the Fundación Oso Pardo, will be a brown bear interpretation centre. It is scheduled to open in 2012. A temporary exhibition has been carried out during the summer 2011 in El Fornet Refuge with part of the materials that will be shown in Isil. Two itineraries that depart from Isil to know the bear’s habitat have been created in 2011. For more information on these activities see the website of Acció Natura (www.accionatura.org , under the headings: ecotourism, follow the bear trace).

Without leaving home we can visit the French government website

devoted to the bear (www.ours.ecologie.gouv.fr ), where we can find also updated information on the follow-up of the bears of the Pyrenees, as well as many photographs and videos of the bears.

The NGO Depana has developed an online game called 'Discovering the

Pyrenean brown bear' to help our children (and us) to know more about the famous plantigrade. It can be played (in Spanish, Catalan and Aranese) in www.depana.org .

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The territory of the bear

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Bordes de Pina and Mont-Roig

MAP OF ITINERARIES

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1. Pic de Quartiules 11. Tuc de Bonabé

2. Pic del Pinetó 12. Pic de Qüenca

3. Lo Tésol 13. Pic des Miques

4. Pui de la Bonaigua 14. Mont-roig

5. Pic de Bassiero Oriental 15. Pic de Montalt

6. Tuc de la Cigalera 16. Pic de Gel

7. Cap del Muntanyó d’Àrreu 17. Pic de Vinyals

8. Pic de la Plana 18. Pic de Clavera

9. Pic de Rosari 19. Bony de la Mina

10. Pic de Pilàs 20. Pic de Moredo

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Peaks of Marimanya and Rosari

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WALKS

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PIC DE QUARTIULES

Pic de Quartiules (2226m)

This modest mountain, easy to climb and suitable for young children, offers dizzying views over the Espot valley and a great panorama from Pica d’Estats (the highest mountain in the Catalan Pyrenees) to Mont Valier, and over the Marimanya massif.

The top of Pic de Quartiules

Starting point: Car park of the Pla de la Font Refuge (1987m). Approach: From València d’Àneu or Esterri drive W along the C-28 road. Shortly after València, take a detour to the left to Son (5km). Continue along the paved road towards Espot and after 3km find on the right a forest track that leads to the refuge (8.5km). The track is in good condition and is suitable for conventional vehicles. Time: 1h (with children). Height climbed: 239m. Distance: 1.9km. Children: Suitable for children over 4 years.

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Itinerary:

From the car park we walk along the wide track towards the Pla de la Font Refuge, at a distance of 600m, which we reach after 15 minutes. Next to the refuge a signpost shows the way to the "Mirador". We must continue walking along the beautiful meadow following the wooden stakes with yellow paint marks to the S, up to the Coll de Fogueruix (2108m, 35min), where there is an orientation table and great views over Espot.

From the col we turn to the NE to find a path, marked with cairns and small red wooden circles, that enters the wood. The path climbs gently at first, but then we found a steeper stretch that will bring us to the meadows of the top of the mountain.

We continue to the SE through woodland and meadows. On our right there is an open hill (2224m, 1h) with great views. The true top is actually situated fifty metres to the NE but it is covered with pine trees and has no views.

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Pic del Pinetó (2647m) Easy climb with steep sections to a summit that stays hidden until near

the end of the walk and has good views over the mountains of the Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park (Pui de Linya, Encantats, Peguera, Montsaliente).

Pla de la Font Refuge

Starting point: Car park of the Pla de la Font Refuge (1987m). Approach: From València d’Àneu or Esterri drive W along the C-28 road. Shortly after València, take a detour to the left to Son (5km). Continue along the paved road towards Espot and after 3 km find on the right a forest track that leads to the refuge (8.5km). The track is in good condition and is suitable for conventional vehicles. Time: 2h 30min (with children). Height climbed: 660m. Distance: 4km. Children: Suitable for children over 7 years.

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Itinerary:

We follow the track that leads to the Pla de la Font Refuge, which we reach in 15min. Next to the refuge there is a signpost that indicates the routes we can take from there. We climb the meadow in S direction (there are wooden stakes indicating the way) to the Coll de Fogueruix. Before reaching it, another signpost indicates us to turn right (W) into the wood, where we find a good trail that runs between the pines and brings us to a flat open terrain on the Plana d’Aires (2220m, 50min), with great views over the Espot valley.

We now face the great hill of Lo Planell that we start climbing along a good trail that makes long zigzags. At half way the trail fades, but we notice yellow paint marks on a rock as well as some cairns that guide us to reach the top of the hill (2450m, 1h 30min). Now we walk at an easy angle for a couple of hundred metres before tackling a new steep section, either directly straight up or following a path that traverses right first. Following either option, we get to the top of the hill, pass a small cave (El Forat del Pa) and reach the summit of Milpotros (2633m, 2h 15min), where we first see the top of Pic

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del Pinetó in front of us. We descend a few metres to a col covered with goat excrements, from which we climb up the easy E ridge of the Pic del Pinetó (2647m, 2h 30min).

Lo Planell, Roca Blanca, Lo Tésol and Pui de la Bonaigua from the refuge

ALT ÀNEU

Lo Tésol (2700m) This mountain is easily identifiable by its huge NE slope over the village

of Son. Its ascension is usually done from the Pas del Coro by a direct climb of the steep slopes of the NE face. Here we describe a route along the Canal de Les Estanyeres.

Lo Tésol from the Centre de Natura de les Planes de Son

Starting point: Centre de Natura de les Planes de Son (1536m). Approach: From València d’Àneu or Esterri drive W along the C-28 road. Shortly after València take a detour to the left to Son (5 km). On leaving the village, take the turning to the right. After 1.5km the paved road gets to the Centre de Natura. Time: 3h 15min. Height climbed: 1164m. Distance: 8.5km. Children: Not suitable for children because of its length and slope. Starting from the Pas del Coro (4WD) it could be climbed by children over 10.

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Itinerary:

At the entrance to the Centre de Nature a signpost marks the beginning of the track leading to the Pas del Coro. Initially the track goes into the forest and climbs steeply, but further up the gradient decreases and the track goes out to open terrain with beautiful views over the Planes de Son valley and the peaks of Lo Tésol and Roca Blanca. At the end of the valley the track enters again the forest, gently ascending among the deep aroma of conifers. After 4.2km (1872m, 1h) we arrive at a fork in the track. A signpost shows that the left track continues to the Pla de la Font and the right one to the Pas del Coro.

It is possible to get here by 4WD car to shorten the length of the walk, but here the track is relatively narrow and there is little room to park. It is possible to do so a hundred metres beyond the National Park sign which prohibits traffic to the Pas del Coro, in a bend to the right.

We continue towards the Pas del Coro, but before reaching it we take a branch that bends left. This track soon fades and disappears in a meadow, where we see some wooden stakes with yellow paint marks that signal the route from the Pas del Coro to the Pla de la Font Refuge. We follow the

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marks to the left (S) and go back into the forest, where we find a good path profusely marked with yellow paint. The path brings us comfortably through almost flat terrain in the woods to get to a clearing and later to a large open field (1953m, 1h 30min).

Here we can see directly overhead us (W) the tops of Roca Blanca and Lo Tésol and between them the Canal de les Estanyeres, which we will ascend. Although the summit seems very close, a steep and long climb awaits us. The Canal de les Estanyeres is a succession of steep slopes alternating with false plains that help us to breathe and to alleviate the leg pain. There are no paths or cairns, but the ground is grassy and progression is not difficult. After ascending the second slope (2300m, 2h 25min) it is possible to climb to the ridge on our right and to go straight to the top from there. I think it's better to follow the Canal, overcoming successive slopes with a short scree section to the Coll de Son (2586m, 3h).

Now we continue towards the N along a path that runs on the simple and easy ridge to the summit (2700m, 3h 15min), where there is a plaque in memory of Quique Civat and Just Bardella, skiers of Esterri d’Àneu killed by an avalanche on this mountain the spring 2008.

ALT ÀNEU

Pui de la Bonaigua (2778m)

This mountain of great volume and striking appearance watches as a guardian the Bonaigua River valley, with the typical features of the granitic mountains of the Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park. From its top we enjoy a great view over the tormented landscape of the National Park’s northern mountains. Its ascension, however, is neither easy nor pleasant.

Pui de la Bonaigua from Lo Tésol

Starting point: Car park of La Peülla chairlift (1913m). Approach: From València d’Àneu or Esterri drive along the C-28 road that leads to the Aran valley across the Bonaigua Pass. At the km 49.4, on the left, there is the entrance to the esplanade of La Peülla chairlift in the Bonaigua sector of the Baqueira-Beret ski resort. Time: 2h 45min. Height climbed: 865m. Distance: 4.7km. Children: Not suitable for children.

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Itinerary:

From the car park we descend a hundred metres to the river to cross it, next to a signpost showing the direction to the Estany de Gerber and the Mataró Refuge. We walk along a good trail that traverses a grassy slope (Es Paletes) and enters the forest, where we climb gently up to the Estanyola de Gerber (2020m, 30min).The trail is marked with cairns, wooden stakes with yellow paint and red and green paint marks on the rocks and trees. The path continues around the lake to the right and climbs up to a second lake: the Estany Petit de Gerber (2125m, 55min). Now we have to walk along the E side of this lake (our left) to its end. At the point where the path turns right to start the climb to the Estany de Gerber, at the confluence of a ravine that descends from the left side, we find a cairn that indicates the end of pleasure and the onset of labor.

We leave the path to the Estany de Gerber and begin the arduous climb up the ravine of Les Mines d’Andreuet. First, we climb to our left among granite rocks and rhododendrons up to a grassy hill crowned with a grove of pines. From here, we can see what awaits us. We must negotiate the vast chaos of rocks in SE direction, keeping rather to our right. From time to

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time we find some cairns that guide and comfort us letting us know that someone has been here before.

We reach a characteristic group of big boulders (2360m, 1h 45min) and we head towards a grassy corridor in front of us that descends from the ridge. Despite our desire to leave the scree, it’s advisable that instead of climbing this grassy ramp we continue to our left, next to the rock wall, through a ground of grass and shattered stones to find the next corridor, which leads us to the Coll de Xemenies (2572m, 2h 15min).

Now we have to climb the ridge to the NE. The first sector of the ridge is the most difficult, with several gendarmes and steep slopes. However, we can easily avoid this section by the steep grassy slopes of the Cabanes side (E) and return to the ridge about 100m above. From here, the ridge is broad and consists of simple granite blocks where we move with ease, requiring occasional scrambling. On the top of Pui de la Bonaigua (2778m, 2h 45min) there is a plaque in memory of Eduard Castellarnau, alpinist from València d'Àneu who died in a mountain accident in the Alps the summer 2008.

ALT ÀNEU

Pic de Bassiero Oriental (2897m)

The peaks of Bassiero are the highest mountains in Alt Àneu. This, together with the beautiful route through the Gerber valley, full of lakes, and the fantastic views from the summit over the mountains of the Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park, specially Peguera and Encantats, justifies the inclusion of this route in the guide.

Pic de Bassiero from the Col de Bassiero

Starting point: Car park of La Peülla chairlift (1913m). Approach: From València d’Àneu or Esterri drive along the C-28 road that leads to the Aran valley across the Bonaigua Pass. At the km 49.4, on the left, there is the entrance to the esplanade of La Peülla chairlift in the Bonaigua sector of the Baqueira-Beret ski resort. Time: 3h. Height climbed: 984m. Distance: 6.9km. Children: Not suitable for children.

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Itinerary:

From the car park we descend a hundred metres to the river to cross it, next to a signpost showing the direction to the Estany de Gerber and the Mataró Refuge.

We walk on an excellent and convenient path that goes almost flat in SE direction to the entrance of the Gerber valley, where it turns towards the S and ventures into the forest to reach the Estanyola de Gerber (2020m, 30 min) after a short climb between pines. The small lake is surrounded along its left shore (our right) and we climb up to a second lake: the Estany Petit de Gerber (2.125m, 50min). We continue along the right side of the lake to its end and reach the stream that drains the Estany de Gerber, descending sandwiched between rock walls from the lake (2165m, 1h 5min), the usual destination of dozens of tourists.

The path leaves within a few metres the shore of the Estany de Gerber and ascends in zigzags to the left (E) to gain altitude and then goes in S direction along the hillside of the lake basin. The path is good and it is profusely marked with cairns and red and green paint. We cross a stream and

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climb a steep section between rocks, pines and rhododendron to reach the Estany Llong (2315m, 1h 25min).

The path now winds through grassy ground between granite rocks. It has flat and even descending sections, alternating with steeper slopes that we overcome in a beautiful landscape dotted with lakes to reach the Mataró Refuge (2460m, 2h), on a large rock over the Estany de l’Illa. This non-guarded refuge is in very good condition. It has capacity for 16 people and it has radio and emergency equipment, mattresses and blankets and it is ideally situated as a starting point for ascents of Pics de Bassiero, the peaks of Amitges and Saboredo (through the Coll de l'Estany Gelat), as well as for hikes to the valleys of Cabanes and Sant Maurici.

Mataró Refuge

From the refuge we climb towards the SSE up a group of granite hills that surround the lake. There are many cairns and a trace of path that lead to a small col over a valley flooded by granite blocks at the base of Pic of Bassiero (2550m, 2h 15min). From here, we can see the corridor leading to the Coll de Bassiero. We follow the cairns that traverse across the hillside of Pic de Tres Pics in E/SE direction to the base of the corridor (2610m, 2h

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25min). We now climb steeply, keeping to our left to avoid the most shattered rock sections in the centre of the corridor, up to the Coll de Bassiero (2740m, 2h 45min).

From here, the slope softens momentarily before tackling the final hill of grass and blocks of granite to the summit of Pic de Bassiero Oriental (2897m, 3h).

The route to the western peak (slightly higher, 2903m) is only for experienced mountaineers. It requires descending vertical and unstable rocky terrain to the gap between the two peaks and then climbing a corner-chimney and overcoming some granite blocks to the top (and then coming back). Most walkers will find the eastern peak ascent fully satisfactory.

TUC DE LA CIGALERA

Tuc de la Cigalera (2497m)

The road to the Bonaigua Pass offers a high starting point for this short and pleasant walk on alpine meadows. Great views over the mountains of the northern sector of the Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park, as well as over the distant massifs of Besiberri and Maladeta.

On the top of Tuc de la Cigalera

Starting point: km 47.8 of the C-28 road (2037m). Approach: From València d’Àneu or Esterri drive along the C-28 road that leads to the Aran valley across the Bonaigua Pass. About 200m past the km 48, in a curve to the left, there is a wide plateau to park. Time: 1h 45min (with children). Height climbed: 460m. Distance: 2.2km. Children: Suitable for children over 7 years.

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TUC DE LA CIGALERA

Itinerary:

We climb gently up a grassy smooth slope to the NW to find a trail marked with cairns, where we turn to the NE/E. The trail ascends through the brooms to a meadow frequented by horses and cows. Following the cairns we ascend left to the upper part of the meadow, where we find a more obvious path that continues to the right to reach a col over a pool, the Bassa de Boscàs (2220m, 40min). From here we can see integrally the route that we must follow to the Collada del Muntanyó, and then to the S along the ridge to the summit.

In order not to loose altitude, we head to the left to any of the several faint paths that surround the basin of the pool to its N side, and then we continue either at mid-slope or on the bottom of the valley (a beautiful carpet of green grass) towards the col.

We pass a wide corridor that descends from the ridge of Tuc de la Cigalera, that is very tempting as direct line of ascent (in fact I fell into the temptation) but it is made up of very soft soil and loose rocks with a strong inclination. Honestly, it's much better to continue along the valley to the wide Collada del Muntanyó (2429m, 1h 30min). Now we have to completely

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change course to climb along a trail to the left of the N ridge of the peak. This trail has also some shattered and steep sections, but it is in general easy and comfortable and places us on the top of Tuc de la Cigalera (2497m, 1h 45min).

CAP DEL MUNTANYÓ D’ÀRREU

Cap del Muntanyó d’Àrreu (2630m)

This beautiful mountain is easily accessible from the road to the Bonaigua Pass ant it is situated on the lake areas of Garrabea and Baciver. Its ascension is short and simple but attention should be paid on the final summit ridge.

Tuc de la Cigalera (left) and Cap del Muntanyó d’Àrreu (right)

Starting point: km 47.8 of the C-28 road (2037m). Approach: From València d’Àneu or Esterri drive along the C-28 road that leads to the Aran valley through the Bonaigua Pass. About 200m past the km 48, in a curve to the left there is a wide plateau to park. Time: 2h 30min (with children). Height climbed: 593m. Distance: 3km. Children: Suitable for children over 7 years.

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CAP DEL MUNTANYÓ D’ÀRREU

Itinerary:

From the car park we walk to the NW following the cairns for about 100 metres to find a path that goes to the right (E) and ascends between the brooms. After about 350 metres we climb a small corridor and reach a meadow. We continue to our left following trail traces and cairns to the upper part of the meadow, where there is an evident path that goes to the right (E) and leads to a small col over a pool, the Bassa de Boscàs (2220m, 40min).

We continue to our left along the hillside to surround the basin of the pool to its northern end and thence we proceed in NNW direction either on the bottom of the grassy valley or along any of the various parallel paths that run at mid-slope of Tuc de la Cigalera to the Collada del Muntanyó (2429m, 1h 30min).

From the col it is possible to reach the summit climbing its S ridge. At first it is wide and grassy, but further up it becomes rocky and narrow and requires a bit scrambling, though it does not present any major

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difficulties. There are some stretches a bit more complicated or exposed that can be surrounded by the E side to resume later the ridge, scrambling a corridor of land and rock and then continuing on through easier terrain to the summit.

However, if we go with children it is better to avoid the ridge making a traverse across the SE face. From the Collada del Muntanyó we ascend around a hundred metres on the wide and grassy ridge, until we pass a scree that we see on the SE slope. Then, we turn right and walk through easy terrain to find a path (that vanishes at moments) that will bring us comfortably, but with some steep sections, to an area of loose granite blocks fifty metres below the summit.

We scramble the blocks easily, but taking care to avoid stumbling and rock movements, to reach the rocky, narrow and rough summit of Cap del Muntanyó d’Àrreu (2630m, 2h 30min).

PIC DE LA PLANA

Pic de la Plana (2493m)

Pic de la Plana is the big ochre mountain with a triangular top that closes the horizon of Isavarre and Borén to the west. Its climb from the road to the Bonaigua Pass is easy and short and we can enjoy a beautiful walk along a wide grassy ridge at 2300m above sea level, with great views over the surrounding mountains.

Pic de la Plana from Isavarre

Starting point: km 48.1 of the C-28 road (2003m). Approach: From València d’Àneu or Esterri drive along the C-28 road that leads to the Aran valley through the Bonaigua Pass. One hundred metres before reaching km 48, on the left side of the road, there is a small esplanade to park. Time: 2h 15min (with children). Height climbed: 490m. Distance: 4.3km. Children: Suitable for children over 7 years.

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PIC DE LA PLANA

Itinerary:

From the car park we walk at first to the E between large blocks of rock. We find a line of cairns that guide us to the path that we will follow for the rest of the walk.

After walking about 200m to the east, we turn N to start climbing the steep grassy slope. The trail is well defined and leads us again to the E making long zigzags, gaining altitude progressively and allowing us to climb comfortably the steep slope. The path reaches the top of a ridge and levels out next to a pond (2359m, 50min).

After this initial steep climb, the route will be a comfortable walk with gentle ups and downs along a long and wide grassy ridge. We go down twenty metres to a col and continue up towards a series of fences that seem to delimitate a ski-slope, to get to the top of Cap de Comials (2441m, 1h 40min), where there is a trench.

Then, we descend 50m to the next col and head towards Pic del Muntanyó. Instead of climbing this top, we traverse through comfortable and open terrain with traces of path to the NE, to directly reach the summit of Pic de la Plana (2493m, 2h 15min).

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View from the top of Pic de la Plana

PIC DE ROSARI

Pic de Rosari (2608m)

This is a very long walk, but also very beautiful as it runs along the lonely and almost virginal Àrreu valley, where human intervention is almost null. In the route we will find the lovely lakes of Rosari and Garrabea.

Estany and Pic de Rosari

Starting point: Borén (1106m). Approach: Get to Boren either from Esterri along the C-147 road through Isavarre, or from València d’Àneu along the C-28 and the road to Sorpe. Park in the village of Borén. Time: 5h. Height climbed: 1502m. Distance: 10km. Children: Not suitable for children.

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PIC DE ROSARI

Itinerary:

We walk along the C-147 road towards Isil to the Romanesque bridge of Àrreu. We cross it and follow the track that leads to the abandoned village of Àrreu (1258m, 25min). Then, we continue along the path to the left up to the Veinat de Dalt. Here, on the last house on the right, a yellow mark shows us the beginning of a path that goes straight to the mountain (N) and then turns left (W), going upon the edge of a wall. At times the path seems to be engulfed by vegetation, but further up it improves and goes up the valley along the left side of the river, a hundred metres above its course, under a magnificent and fresh hazelnut forest.

The path finally meets the river at a plank bridge (1700m, 1h 35min). We must, however, continue to our right without crossing the river, through a forest of pine trees following the yellow marks. The terrain is more unpleasant and steep. In general the trail is quite clear and there are enough marks not to get lost. When we reach a rocky flat ground in the forest (1830m, 1h 55min), we have to be alert not to get confused. We must locate a cairn made up of white stones indicating that the path goes N among the ferns and then turns left (W) to exit to a grassy clearing. From here it

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continues rising between the pines to a pool that indicates the proximity of the Estany de Rosari (1998m, 2h 30min).

Now, we walk along a path on the S shore of the lake, cross a stream and go to the far end of the lake. Here the paint marks are scarce and we have to look for a line of cairns that make us climb N to a large meadow with a metallic structure for handling of livestock (2027m, 2h 50min). We cross the meadow towards the W/SW to our left and climb up to another grassy plain, where there is a crumbling wall. From here we have to go towards the Estany de Garrabea surpassing the ridge that separates the two lake basins.

We continue for around 250m to the W along a grassy valley keeping rather to the left, trying to locate an inconspicuous cairn that marks the beginning of a narrow path that climbs steeply to reach the back of the ridge (2180m, 3h 20min) and climbs down the other side to the Estany de Garrabea. If we do not find this path we should go up the rock barrier following our instinct.

We proceed along the Garrabea Lake’s left side (our right) to the meadows of its northern shore. About 300m beyond the lake, on our left, another inconspicuous cairn signals the beginning of a path that will bring us up the hill to the Coll de la Forqueta d’Àrreu. If we do not find it, we should go cross-country in ENE direction avoiding the scree to get to the pass (2414m, 4h 30min), from which we can see the Pla de Beret.

Now we have to climb the long N ridge (about 1km) of the Serra de Baciverols. The ridge is broad and mostly grassy with some scree and rocky sections. At some exposed points of the ridge we can traverse following a narrow path on the right (side of Garrabea). We climb a succession of hills to the summit of Pic de Rosari (2608m, 5h), topped with a wooden cross.

PIC DE PILÀS

Pic de Pilàs (2657m)

Pic de Pilàs dominates the basin of Esterri d’Àneu from the N and it is a formidable barrier that delimitates the Noguera Pallaresa River valley from Borén to Alós. I don’t know if we can speak of a normal route, as the normal is that nobody climbs this great mountain that offers an extraordinary panorama in all directions. The route from Isil, very direct, is the most tempting.

Pic de Pilàs from Airoto valley

Starting point: Isil (1163m). Approach: Get to Isil either from Esterri along the C-147 road through Isavarre, or from València d’Àneu along the C-28 and the road to Sorpe. Park in the village of Isil. Time: 3h 20min. Height climbed: 1493m. Distance: 4.9km. Children: Not suitable for children.

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PIC DE PILÀS

Itinerary:

From the small car park in front of the trash containers we head to the bridge over the Noguera Pallaresa River. We cross the two bridges and go straight to a square, where we turn right along the Sescales Street to its end. Here, the cemented floor ends and a good path begins. We will see a paint mark depicting the footprint of a bear at the beginning of the path, that climbs through a wooded area and is marked with cairns and plastic strips hanging from some branches. After reaching a clearing with beautiful views over the village of Isil and the mountain of Qüenca, the path enters again among the hazels to finish at the forest track (1340m, 30min) that goes to the Bordes de Risé.

We follow the track to the right and continue along it to its abrupt end at the Sarredo stream (1442m, 50min). It is possible to get here by 4WD car, but the track’s end is quite narrow and there is hardly any place to park and to manoeuvre to turn back. After crossing the stream, a grassy path continues horizontally towards the left (N) but it soon fades, so it is more practical to climb directly cross-country to the NE up the steep meadow towards a solitary and visible tree in its upper part. From a few metres past

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the tree, we can already see the abandoned stone houses of the Bordes de Risé. We continue up the hill in the same direction, now through more uncomfortable terrain because the prairie is crisscrossed by small brooks and muddy, reaching the Bordes de Risé (1628m, 1h 15min).

From the huts we continue climbing in the same direction up a steep meadow to reach the ridge of Puiolo (1780m, 1h 35min). Towards the N of the ridge the terrain is heavily wooded and impenetrable, while the S side is clearer and the vegetation consists basically of brooms. We continue walking along the ridge on the edge of the woods on the S slope and laboriously navigating among the brooms, many of them charred by a recent fire (February 2011), to find the most comfortable ground. We reach the base of a rocky promontory (2120m, 2h 15min), where it is better to go a few metres further to the S from the line of the ridge to find easier terrain to progress. After passing the promontory, the brooms disappear gradually and we reach an open terrain of alpine meadows and rocks with direct view to the summit (2340m, 2h 40 min). Now, in a true high mountain environment we ascend through easy terrain the steep W slope directly to the summit of Pic de Pilàs (2657m, 3h 20 min), enjoying superb views.

TUC DE BONABÉ

Tuc de Bonabé (2723m)

This lonely mountain overlooks the beautiful Airoto Lake and its rude and long climb from Isil runs along the whole Airoto valley. Its central position in the massif of Marimanya offers great views over its mountains.

Tuc de Bonabé from the Estany d’Airoto

Starting point: Isil (1163m). Approach: Get to Isil either from Esterri along the C-147 road through Isavarre, or from València d’Àneu along the C-28 and the road to Sorpe. Park in the village of Isil. Time: 4h 30min. Height climbed: 1560m. Distance: 8.2km. Children: Not suitable for children.

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TUC DE BONABÉ

Itinerary:

In Isil we walk up the Carrer de la Molina to its end, passing next to the Casa Pastora restaurant. On the right, next to a fountain and trough, a good and wide track, lined by stone walls, begins. It goes in N direction in search of the Riuet d’Airoto.

When the track reaches the river it turns into a nice trail, which ascends parallel to the Airoto River, through a shady deciduous wood. There are cairns from time to time, but the path is very clear and easy to follow.

At around 1685m of altitude (1h 10 min) the trail gets out of the woods to a terrain of bushes and brooms. The trail seems to disappear at times on the grass or engulfed among the brooms, but it is also easy to follow and the cairns are now more numerous. After reaching a promontory (1960m, 1h 40min) we can see that the valley narrows and levels out, leading us to the vicinity of a small lake: the Estanyoleta d’Airoto (2040m, 2h 5min).

We must not descend to it, but continue along the path to the right, as indicated by the numerous cairns that mark this point, reaching a green valley at the foot of the great rocky wall of Pic de Qüenca. We ascend the valley towards the N on a good path to the upper end (2244m, 2h 30min).

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The path now goes to the W descending next to 2 ponds and gets to the Airoto Refuge (2200m, 2h 40min). This non-guarded refuge is in very good condition, the cover has been recently renovated (2009) and it has mattresses, blankets, emergency radio, electric lights powered by solar panels, kitchen utensils and a stove. It can accommodate about 10 people.

Airoto Refuge

Our next movement will be to surround the Airoto Lake (not visible from the refuge) and to reach the Coll d’Airoto. We head in NW direction towards a prominent cairn. From here we can see the drainage of the lake. We have to pass over it to the S shore. Then, we continue to the NW and find a faint narrow path that runs along the lake about 50m above it, above a thick mantle of rhododendrons, crosses a scree section and leads us to the corridor that descends from the Collada dels Plans, which leads to the Estanys dels Plans and the Estany Superior de Rosari.

We must, however, continue the traverse of the lake basin through a quite uncomfortable mixed terrain of rhododendrons, pines, granite boulders and grassy slopes to get in front of the Coll d’Airoto. We continue our ascent now through grassy and rocky ground to reach the Estanyet de Marimanya

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d’Isavarre (2391m, 3h 40min). From here we ascend to the NW following the cairns or our intuition to reach the Coll d’Airoto (2509m, 4h).

Alternatively and probably more comfortably, it is possible to reach the col going around the lake along its N side. To do so, from the refuge we come back up to the second of the ponds and continue along a good path marked with cairns towards the N. It is the route that leads to the Collada del Clot de Moredo. We reach an open field from which we can see this col to the N and the Coll d'Airoto to the W. Now we continue pathless towards the latter, crossing the great chaos of granite blocks at the foot of Tuc de Bonabé to reach the Coll d’Airoto.

From the col we must climb the SW ridge of the peak. We initially climb a rocky stretch and continue through wide and easy grassy ground to reach a gendarme that blocks the passage. We can avoid the gendarme descending with ease over the rocks on our left and returning to the ridge a few metres ahead. Also it is possible to descend a grassy corridor on our right and then to climb back on easy terrain of grass to near the edge of the ridge. The ridge ahead is now made up of big blocks of granite and it is mostly easy. It is possible to avoid some more difficult sections traversing to our right through steep grassy terrain without any difficulties, to find a corridor of grass that will put us directly on the top of Tuc de Bonabé (2723m, 4h 30min).

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Pic de Qüenca (2639m)

This beautiful mountain is easily recognizable from a great distance by the brilliancy of the quartzite inlaids of its summit pyramid.

Pic de Qüenca

Starting point: End of Moredo track (1990m). Approach: From Isil drive along the C-147 road towards Alós d’Isil. After 1.5km, take a track to the left. A few metres from its beginning there is a metallic sign indicating "Bareños". The track is suitable for 4WD vehicles. After 3km, ignore the detour to the left to the Bordes de Lapre, and after 5km the detour to the right to the Bordes de Moredo. After 7km pass next to the Cabaña de Portiero and continue to the end of the track (8km, 35min by car), where there is an esplanade to park. Time: 2h (with children). Elevation: 649m. Distance: 2.5km. Children: Suitable for children over 7 years.

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To reach the starting point of this route a 4WD vehicle is necessary. If we do not have one, we can hire a taxi to make the trip. Alternatively we can climb up the entire track, which is 8km long and has a height difference of 740m (2 more hours of climb). In this case, the ascent is not suitable for children.

Itinerary:

From the end of the track we descend to the Moredo stream to cross it easily. We follow a very conspicuous and wide grassy track gently climbing in S/SE direction to a pine forest. We must continue on the track, at times invaded by trees, which traverses the E side of the mountain to find to our right a clearing like a corridor flanked by pines (2077m, 25min).

We head for the grassy aisle close to the pines on the left to get to the upper part of the wood, already in the broad and grassy SE ridge (2188m, 45 min). We climb up the ridge to reach the base of the rocks that make up the summit (2450m, 1h 30min).

We continue the ascent, very steep now, on the left edge of the summit pyramid where we find path traces. Occasionally we have to scramble without major difficulties. Finally we reach the summit ridge, flat, wide, and

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made up of safe rock, where a great cairn marks the culminant point of the mountain (2639m, 2h).

On the top

ALT ÀNEU

Pic des Miques (2492m)

This slender mountain is the highest elevation of the Serra de Comabiera, a long ridge that runs down from Pic de Moredo, over which it offers a beautiful view.

Pic des Miques

Starting point: Cabana de Portiero. Approach: From Isil drive along the C-147 road towards Alós d’Isil. After 1.5 km, take a track to the left. A few metres from its beginning there is a metallic sign indicating "Bareños". The track is suitable for 4WD vehicles. After 3km, ignore the detour to the Bordes de Lapre to the left, and after 5km the detour to the right to the Bordes de Moredo. After 7km on a sharp bend to the left get to the metallic hut of Portiero, where there is place to park. Time: 2 hours (with children). Height climbed: 576m. Distance: 2.5km. Children: Suitable for children over 7 years.

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As in the case of Pic de Qüenca, a 4WD vehicle (your own one or a local taxi) is required to reach the starting point. We can walk up the track to the Portiero hut but this means additional 7km length and 700m height difference, leaving the route out of the reach of our children. The metallic hut of Portiero has a broken window, the window glass on the floor and the door does not close completely. It is only suitable for use in case of an extreme need.

Itinerary:

From the hut we head to the N along a footpath that goes to the Portiero stream, situated 300m away. We ascend parallel to the stream for about 50m and cross it on a small plain (1950m, 10min). We continue on a small valley in NE/E direction to find a new stream marked with a cairn. If we go cross-country straight up towards the E we will reach another plain, where there is a wooden hut in good condition, useful as an emergency shelter. We continue, however, the climb on the right side of the river somewhat enclosed to get to the Clot de Portiero, a nice grassy plain dotted with scattered pines (2080m, 35min).

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When reaching open and high terrain we see the route that we must follow. We have to climb the large grassy slope towards the N to reach the ridge, to the right (NE) of a rocky section of the Serra de Comabiera. Although there are only occasional traces of path, cross-country progression is comfortable and the slope moderate.

The gradient increases remarkably on the final section that brings us to the back of the ridge (2409m, 1h 40min). We now continue on almost flat terrain for about 200m before climbing, up a very steep but easy ground of grass and rock, the beautiful summit cone of Pic des Miques (2492m, 2h).

The Clot de Portiero and Pic de Moredo in Autumn

ALT ÀNEU

Mont-roig (2864m)

Mont-roig is undoubtedly the best known mountain of Alt Àneu, although its most common route of ascent starts from the neighbouring Cardós valley. The route that we describe runs along the Comamala valley and it is often quite frequented up to the Coll de la Cornella by mountaineers hiking along the HRP (Haute Route des Pyrénées).

Mont-roig from the Estanys de la Tartera

Starting point: Pont de Pina (1315m). Approach: From Alós d’Isil drive along the narrow paved road towards Montgarri. Pina Bridge is 2km away from Alós, but there is no place to park vehicles, so continue for 1km more to reach a cattle-grid, after which there is a large esplanade to park. Hours: 4h 30min. Height climbed: 1550m. Distance: 8km. Children: Not suitable for children.

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Itinerary:

From the car park (1357m) we walk back 1km to Alós to find on our left the track that goes to the river. At Pina Bridge (1315m, 15min) we cross the Noguera Pallaresa River and continue walking up a wide track that climbs to a first house, crosses a metalic door and continues zigzagging up to the upper two Bordes de Pina (1462m, 35min).

The track ends just between the 2 buildings. In its end we see 2 stone cairns flanking the beginning of a faint footpath that goes to the forest, where it becomes a good trail that turns to the E and ascends between the trees. At first the gradient is strong, but then there is an almost flat and even descending section. The path is clear and easy to follow. At some clearings or crossing a stream it fades, but the numerous and prominent cairns help us to find it again. After crossing one of the streams we will also see a large pine tree with a hair trap that reminds us that we are in the territory of the bear.

The path runs to meet the Comamala River (1760m, 1h 25min) where we go out to open terrain. We ascend a grassy slope and get to the Clot dels

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Pilars in the upper Comamala cirque (1890m, 1h 40min). On our right (SE) we see the waterfall that flows from the Bassa de Sobriu, our next goal.

The path continues almost flat towards it and leads us to a point where it is easy to cross the stream. Then, it ascends between rhododendrons and pines up the right side of the waterfall (our left) to the Bassa de Sobriu (2074 m, 2 h), a good place to bivouac if we want to do the climb in 2 days.

From here we follow the path to the E and climb a corridor leading to a valley flooded by large stone blocks, where there is another pond (2200m, 2h 15min). The path and the cairns lead us to the right, but we must be vigilant after a few tens of metres to leave the line of cairns that goes to the SE and to continue through the chaos of boulders directly to the E, passing about fifty metres away from the pond, to reach the base of a grassy slope (also indicated with cairns). We climb among rhododendrons the steep slope and when it levels out we go through a sort of corridor, after which we climb to the right through mixed terrain of rocks, some grassy stretches and scree up to the Coll de la Cornella (2482m, 3h).

Next, we have to climb the ridge to the NE. The first section is quite steep and we have to scramble, though it is not difficult. Then, we will have to do a somewhat acrobatic and exposed traverse to the right to avoid climbing down a steep rock section. Afterwards, we continue up through easier terrain of rock and grass to reach an intermediate elevation (2602m, 3h 20min), from which we descend on similar ground to the Coll de la Tartera, also called Collada de Mont-roig (2547m, 3h 30min). For those who don’t like scrambling a ridge, it is possible to by-pass it descending a hundred metres down from the Coll de la Cornella to the E, and then traversing through easy though steep grassy terrain the base of the ridge to the N to reach the Coll de la Tartera.

From the col we continue up on grassy ground in NE direction to reach the base of a large scree section. We start climbing it, but as soon as we can, we turn to our right to reach a ground of grass and rock a few metres from the edge of the ridge, that leads us to the base of the final rock wall. This wall looks stunning from below, but there is a narrow path that runs along and up it, leading without difficulty, although with some scrambling, to its top edge in the wide summit region of Mont-roig, next to a huge cairn (2835m, 4h). We continue along the ridge to reach a trig point, called Pic de la Tartera (2846m, 4h 5min).

However, the true summit is further to the NE. We descend a few metres the vast plateau to a col, where the final ridge leading to the summit begins. This rocky ridge is easy but has some slightly exposed sections that can be avoided traversing right through grassy ground that leads to the

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summit of Mont-roig (2864m, 4h 30min). A few metres further and separated by a bit difficult gap, there is the N top, of lower altitude.

The top of Mont-roig

PIC DE MONTALT

Pic de Montalt (2495m)

This rarely visited mountain enjoys, due to its location above the Port de Salau, an unmatched panorama over the headwaters of the Noguera Pallaresa River, the neighbouring French valleys and the surrounding mountain ranges.

Pic de Montalt from El Fornet

Starting point: Refugi de El Fornet (1371m). Approach: From Alós d'Isil continue along the narrow paved road towards Montgarri for 4km to the car park in front of El Fornet Refuge (closed nowadays). During the summer, an information booth of the Alt Pirineu Natural Park is opened next to the car park. Time: 3h 35min (with children). Height climbed: 1124m. Distance: 4.4km. Children: Suitable for children over 10 years.

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Itinerary:

We follow the track to Montgarri and after 700m we find on our right a signpost that indicates the way to the Port de Salau. It's called the Camí Vell de Salau (Old Trail to Salau) and it is marked with GR paint marks (red and white).

We climb through the forest up to a clearing next to the Salau stream. We cross the watercourse and ascend the opposite side to a meadow (1500m, 35min) where the path disappears. There are a couple of stakes with GR marks that guide us in the direction to follow. We have to climb the right edge of the meadow in E/NE direction toward a group of fallen trees, where we find again a path among the brooms leading to another meadow.

The paint marks bring us right towards the stream, to later ascend and cross the forest in front of us and go out to open terrain. However, the route through the forest is at times a bit confusing and I think it is more beautiful, comfortable and evident to climb the beautiful grassy valley on our left. We will join back the path with the GR marks past the forest at about 1730m (1h 10min).

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From here, we rise to the right to a hill and continue climbing in zigzags now a steep grassy slope, where the path faints and the GR marks are scarce. The route continues to the left, where there is a tree next to the dry bed of a stream. Here, we find a more evident path that turns right and joins another trail coming from the left (1930m, 1h 50min). We continue rising gently to the E and reach the Port de Salau (2085m, 2h 15min). In the col there are the ruins of a cable car station built by the French in the early twentieth century for the transport of wood from the Spanish side.

From the Port de Salau a path goes towards the base of the Pic de Portavera that we have to traverse left (W). The trail leads us to the SW ridge of Pic de Montalt, on the left of a rocky outcrop at 2250m (2h 55m) and continues along the edge of the easy grassy ridge with steep sections, climbing successive elevations to reach the summit of Pic de Montalt (2495m, 3h 35min).

Núria on the ridge of Pic de Montalt

PIC DE GEL

Pic de Gel (2499m)

This mountain, that shows a very attractive contour from Perosa, is the easiest of the peaks that make up the long ridge that runs down from Mont-roig to the Port de Salau. Although the climb is a bit long to do with children, it is very nice because much of the route (around 5km) runs along a comfortable and wide track.

Pic de Gel from Perosa

Starting point: Pont de Perosa (1475m). Approach: From Alós d’Isil continue along a narrow paved road for 4km to the Refugi El Fornet. From here, drive along a dirt track in quite good condition for 5km more to the car park next to the Perosa Bridge. If there is not snow or much mud, this track is suitable for conventional vehicles. Time: 3h (with children). Height climbed: 1024m. Distance: 8.2km. Children: Suitable for children over 10 years.

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Itinerary:

From the car park we walk E along the track that goes to the Port de Salau. The track is quite steep at first, but levels out soon and rises gently through the deciduous forest, later replaced by large pines, leaving aside two deviations to the Port d’Aulà. We leave the forest to open terrain (1680m, 50min) with great views over the valley and continue through almost flat terrain for almost 1km. Then the track ascends definitely in long zigzags to its ends in a small esplanade (1945m, 1h 30min).

A few metres before the end of the track, there is a detour to the right that leads to an enclosure for a flock of sheep guarded by a guarding-dog, which surely will come to intimidate us. We must behave wisely and stay away from the sheep.

From the end of the track we see a small bridge formed by two planks on a water course. There are marks of yellow paint on the bridge indicating the beginning of the good path that we must follow. The trail climbs gently towards the SSE traversing the base of Pic de Montalt comfortably (there is even a wooden handrail on a stretch). After passing the SW ridge of Pic de

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Montalt the path goes almost flat in SE direction to the Port de Salau (2085m, 2 h).

From the Port de Salau we continue to the SE along a path towards the first of the elevations of the ridge, the Pic de la Peguilla. We do not ascend it, but traverse across the Bonabé side (W) to a characteristic stretch of limestone on the ridge (2260m, 2h 25min).

From here we will climb along the ridge. This is mostly grassy and easy, although it has some narrow stretches between steep and slippery grassy slopes on both sides. We overcome various elevations on the ridge, some with strong inclination, and finally we descend a few metres to the base of the final summit pyramid (2390m, 2h 45min). Seen from below, this final stretch is imposing, but it’s easier than it looks. The grassy ground, though very steep, is comfortable, there are traces of path and it is not necessary to scramble at any time to reach the summit of Pic de Gel (2499m, 3h).

PIC DE VINYALS

Pic de Vinyals (2398m)

This modest top holds little relevance, but its ascent is highly recommended because it allows to climb the beautiful Coma d’Aulà to the homonymous col and also because of its great views over Mont Valier, the Marimanya massif and the headwaters of the Noguera Pallaresa, as well as over the distant peaks of the Maladeta massif and the northern mountains of the Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park.

Mont Valier from Pic de Vinyals

Starting point: Pont de Perosa (1475m). Approach: From Alós d’Isil continue along a narrow paved road for 4km to the Refugi El Fornet. From here, drive along a dirt track in quite good condition for 5km more to the car park next to the Perosa Bridge. If there is not snow or much mud, this track is suitable for conventional vehicles. Time: 2h 20min (with children). Height climbed: 923m. Distance: 4.3km. Children: Suitable for children over 10 years.

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Itinerary:

We take the track to the Port de Salau and after about 300m we see a signpost that indicates the way to the Port d’Aulà. We must follow a short cut beginning next to a large cairn. This path rises continuously above the track in E direction to end again in a sharp bend on the track to Salau. We continue along the track for 300m more to a second signpost that indicates us to abandon definitively the track to Salau. We walk along a path that climbs a grassy slope first and then goes into a corridor between trees to get to a meadow (1660m, 30min).

Here we must be careful not to lose the route. There is a GR paint mark on a small stone in the centre of the meadow and another one about 30m to the N, which marks the beginning of a good path leading to our right (E) to a clearing. Here, we turn completely to the left and climb zigzagging among the brooms and bushes to arrive near the hut of the Pletiu d’Aulà (1780m, 45min), which is in good condition and can be useful as emergency shelter. The path we have followed is very clear and it is well marked with GR marks and yellow circles.

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Now we walk a few metres to the NE and we spot the Coma d’Aulà, bounded by the hillside of Pic de Vinyals to the E and a grassy ridge to the west. We should not head to the bottom of the valley to climb it. Instead, we climb a few hundred metres to the NW following the GR marks and the cairns, almost to the base of the grassy ridge that bounds the Coma d’Aulà, where we find a path that leads to the E ascending gently the valley up to a hill (2040m, 1h 30min).

Here, the trail disappears and we have to walk comfortably on alpine meadows following the GR marks towards the NE, although the route is logical and obvious. We pass the Estanyola d’Aulà (2180m, 1h 50min) and finally we reach the Port d’Aulà (2262m, 2 h). We crawl under the electric fence and on the French side we climb the steep grassy slope of the mountain to reach the ridge, where we turn right to get to Pic de Vinyals (2398m, 2h 20min).

PIC DE CLAVERA

Pic de Clavera (2721m)

This great mountain, with a magnificent panorama from its top, merits an exclusive chapter even though its importance is overshadowed by its proximity to Mont Valier, and for many it is just a geographical accident en route to the giant of Ariège.

Pic de Clavera

Starting point: Pont de Perosa (1475m). Approach: From Alós d’Isil continue along a narrow paved road for 4km to the Refugi El Fornet. From here, drive along a dirt track in quite good condition for 5km more to the car park next to the Perosa Bridge. If there is not snow or much mud, this track is suitable for conventional vehicles. Time: 3h 15m. Height climbed: 1270m. Distance: 6.3km. Children: Not suitable for children.

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Itinerary:

We walk along the track that runs beside the young Noguera Pallaresa River following the Montgoso signalled route, a short and beautiful walk that deserves to spend a relaxing morning on it. After 20 minutes we reach the Prats de Clavera where the track forks. We leave the Montgoso route and continue on the track to the right, with GR marks, which makes a pair of zigzags and goes towards the Clavera stream.

The track ends abruptly (1560m, 35min) and turns into a footpath that ascends a grassy slope and then meets again the stream course, climbing gently along its left side (E). The path reaches a confluence of watercourses: the Cernalla stream that descends from the N and the Clavera stream that descends from the NE (1710m, 55min). Without crossing the latter stream, we follow the path that rises to our right (SE) to go into the woods, where it makes several zigzags before heading back to the N to meet again the course of the stream, having passed elegantly the first section of the ravine.

Now we cross the stream (1810m, 1h 10min) and climb up along its right side, parallel to the watercourse, with steep slopes. At times, the trail fades but there are enough GR marks and cairns not to lose the route. When the

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path seems to be enclosed between the stream and a grassy hill, we turn left and climb out to a depression (2055m, 1h 40min).

From here, we can ascend cross-country straight towards the N through grassy terrain or we can follow the path that first goes to the right and when it appears to get to the watercourse it turns left and climbs comfortably to the upper part of the grassy slope, where we find the Estanyet de Clavera (2220m, 2h). Next to the lake there is a small stone hut in excellent condition with 2 banks with capacity for up to 4 sitting people, which can be useful as emergency shelter, as well as numerous marmot burrows. From the lake we first see the summit of Pic de Clavera in front of us.

Next, we ascend following the GR marks and yellow circles to the N, but instead of dealing directly with the corridor that descends from the Coll de la Pala de Clavera, the route makes a wide detour to the right (E) to fetch the right (W) edge of the large scree at the base of Pic de Clavera. We rise next to the scree following the marks to meet a good path that heads left and leads directly to the Coll de la Pala de Clavera (2524m, 2h 45min), where a plaque remembers the Camí de la Llibertat (the Route to Freedom) followed by hundreds of people fleeing from the Nazis.

Now we climb to the E the first and steep grassy slope in the way to the top. After overcoming it, we can continue along the ridge through an easy ground of grass and rock or follow a faint path parallel to the ridge by the French side, to reach the summit of Pic de Clavera (2721m, 3h 15min).

For the most daring, the proximity of Mont Valier invites to continue to its summit. This requires passing a pair of gullies with a somewhat exposed down climbing to get to the Coll de Peyre Blanc, and then to climb or to traverse left the hillside of Petit Valier to reach the Coll de Faustin and join the normal route to the summit (1h 15min more).

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Mont Valier from the top of Pic de Clavera

ALT ÀNEU

Bony de la Mina (2279m)

This mountain does not have a relevant climbing interest, but its ascent route allows us to enjoy a beautiful walk between monumental firs and pines and gives us magnificent views over the frontier ridge between the Port d’Aulà and Pic de Barlonguera and over the great meadow of the Ras de Bonabé.

The wooded Bony de la Mina

Starting point: Pont de Perosa (1475m). Approach: From Alós d’Isil continue along a narrow paved road for 4km to the Refugi El Fornet. From here, drive along a dirt track in quite good condition for 5km more to the car park next to the Perosa Bridge. If there is not snow or much mud, this track is suitable for conventional vehicles. Time: 3h 45min (with children). Height climbed: 804m. Distance: 7km. Children: Suitable for children over 10 years.

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Itinerary:

We take the track to Montgarri or the short cut that runs next to the Borda de Perosa and we reach the Planell de Perosa. In this place, a plaque erected in 2005 reminds the Catalan illustrious philologist Joan Corominas on the centenary of his birth. A few metres ahead, on the left, begins the track (closed to traffic) to the old Peipicat mines, that we have to follow.

The track is in good condition and ascends gently in long loops, among magnificent firs and pines. After about 2.5km we come to a curve to the right where the path to the Cireres valley starts (1750m, 1h 15min). The dirt track now becomes grassy and climbs more steeply in shorter loops. We follow it for another kilometre to find in a sharp bend to the right, a grassy detour out to the left. We take it and continue to its end thirty metres further, next to a thick metal wire that was used to haul material to and from the mines I guess (1850m, 1h 45min).

At this point, we follow a path that goes in W direction upon the wire that is embedded in earth. The path climbs steeply straight up a large meadow covered with flowers and flanked by the forest, to disappear further up in the grass. However, the route is evident: we have to continue climbing

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cross-country the field to reach its upper limit where we see a col, a corridor between two wooded hills (2020m, 2h 20min).

We continue along the fairly flat aisle with occasional traces of path for a few tens of metres towards the W, to reach again a good trail that comes from our right. The path continues for about a kilometre around the mountain, initially in W direction and then turning to the S. The sound of cowbells and mooings tell us that we are close to the great meadow of the Ras de Bonabé. The trail we have followed through the woods reaches a clearing (1982m, 2h 50min) next to the Llançanes stream.

From here, we can climb directly to the summit looking for the best route through the woods following the paths made by the cows, initially in SE direction and then further to the left (ENE, N), with steep sections, to reach the top of Bony de la Mina (2279m, 3h 45min).

Alternatively, from the meadow we can continue towards the S looking for any paths through the woods along the right bank of the river, without crossing it, to reach the Ras de Bonabé (20min). From here we continue up to the east through open terrain and woods to the Collada del Ras, where we will go to the left (N) climbing the forested ridge that leads to the top of Bony de la Mina (1h 15min from the Llançanes stream).

ALT ÀNEU

Pic de Moredo (2766m)

The Pic de Moredo is the highest mountain in the Marimanya massif. As well as its neighbour Pic de Qüenca, its limestone summit pyramid with quartzite inlaids is very characteristic. Its usual route of ascent starts from the Portiero hut (see the description of the route to Pic des Miques). The route that we described here along the beautiful Cireres valley is longer, lonelier and more varied.

Pic de Moredo and Clots de Rocablanca

Starting point: Pont de Perosa (1475m). Approach: From Alós d'Isil continue along a narrow paved road for 4km to the Refugi El Fornet. From here, drive along a dirt track in quite good condition for 5km more to the car park next to the Perosa Bridge. If there is not snow or much mud, this track is suitable for conventional vehicles. Time: 3h 20min. Height climbed: 1291m. Distance: 7.8km. Children: Not suitable for children.

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Itinerary:

We walk along the track to Montgarri or along the short cut that runs next to the Borda de Perosa to reach the Planell of Perosa, with its monumental firs. We continue walking along the Peipicat track (closed to traffic) that begins from the main track to Montgarri, a few metres ahead on the left. On this track we will climb comfortably among grandiose trees such as the Pi de les Cinc Branques situated next to it (1680m, 35min).

Further up, the dirt track becomes a carpet of grass on a bend to the right. Here, there is an small cairn on the left (1750m, 50min), indicating us to leave the track, climb around thirty metres across a field and reach the trail leading to the left (SE) to the Cireres valley. This trail is very obvious and even wide at times and goes into the lonely forest, running parallel to the river along its left side. At one point (1820m, 1h) there is a bifurcation in which it is best to follow the left path. It descends slightly to the river and seems to fade, but we will find it again a few metres further up and we continue ascending along it, without crossing the river, to reach open terrain (1880m, 1h 10min). We climb a steep grassy slope to its upper end (1960m,

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1h 25min) where we can already see the great green carpet of the Clots de Rocablanca.

We continue to the S descending slightly to cross the river and continue up its right side either along traces of path or cross-country on grassy ground, to reach a large quartzite rock embedded in the middle of the meadow like a white tooth (2140m, 2h).

From here, we can guess to the SSE the pass to which we must ascend between the Pic de Moredo and the Serra de Comabiera. We head to a grassy corridor behind a hillside covered with pines and rhododendron. The corridor is quite steep and it is somewhat shattered in its upper part, but it is of easy and comfortable ascent and places us on the col named El Colletó in some maps (2325m, 2h 20min).

We continue our ascent to the SSW up the steep and wide ridge to reach the base of a large rock wall. Here, it is advisable to traverse left up to the junction with the ridge that rises from Portiero (2500m, 2h 40min), the normal route. Now we scramble a steep but easy and without risk rock sector, or we traverse left the grassy slopes and climb the top of a hill (2580m, 2h 50min), that opens the way to the upper plateau of the mountain.

We descend a few metres to face the final ascent of the E side of the mountain, covered with limestone rocks, keeping to its N edge to go straight to the top of Rocablanca (2765m, 3h 15min). We are separated from the main summit by a ridge section of solid rock about 50m long, a bit narrow and exposed but extremely easy, where it is not even necessary to scramble or to kneel to reach the summit of Pic de Moredo (2766m, 3h 20min).

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Final ridge of Pic de Moredo

SUMMARY OF ASCENTS

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Ras de Bonabé

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Pic des Miques, Moredo and Bony de la Mina from the Pletiu d’Aulà

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DICTIONARY OF CATALAN TOPOGRAPHIC TERMS

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Alt High Avenc Cave, Chasm Barranc Ravine Bassa Pool, Pond Bony Bump, a rounded peak Borda/Bordes Hut, specially to keep straw, manure, tools Bosc Forest, Wood Cabana Hut Camí Trail Canal Ravine, Gully Cap Head Cigalera Cliff, Crag Clot Depression, Concavity Coll/Collada Col, Pass, Saddle Coma Glacial valley Estany/Estanyet/Estanyola Lake Font Fountain, Spring Gerdar Area full of Raspberries Mata Forest, specially very dense Muntanya Mountain

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Obaga Shady, Shaded side of a mountain (N) Pala Steep hillside of a mountain Pas Pass, Col Pic Peak Pla/Plana/Planell Plain Pleta/Pletiu Pen, Fold, Enclosure for livestock Pont Bridge Port Pass, Col Ras Extensive grassy plain Refugi Refuge, Shelter Riu River Salt Waterfall Serra/Serrat Sierra, Mountain range Solana Sunny side of a mountain (S) Tarter/Tartera Scree Torrent Stream Tuc Peak Vall Valley

This guide is a personal selection of highmountain itineraries in Alt Àneu (Catalonia),one of the most beautiful and best preservedregions of the Pyrennes, home of some of the few brown bears living in this mountainrange. All the routes described in this guide are suitable for any average walker. Half ofthem are also suitable for families climbingwith children. Whether we do a short walk with our children or whether we venture intoits most remote corners, Alt Àneu will sur-prise us by its great landscapes, its perservednature, its fauna and its loneliness.