5

#25

-LISB

ON

-Fall2015-W

inter2016

Th

em

ag

az

ine

fo

rn

es

pr

es

so

Cl

ub

me

mb

er

s

LISBONFall 2015-Winter 2016 € 5,90 SFR 7,00 £ 4.90 $ 8.00

CARMINHOREINVENTS FADO

CITY GUIDECLUB MEMBERS’FAVOURITE ADDRESSES

SWISS DESIGNA STUDY OFSAVOIR-FAIRE

GOURMET COFFEERECIPES CAPTURINGTHE TASTE OF LISBON

BMW 7 Series

www.bmw.comSheer

Driving Pleasure

DRIVING LUXURY.THE ALL-NEW BMW 7 SERIES.

Find out more at bmw.com/7series.

EU fuel consumption: 4,5 to 8,5 l/100 km (combined), CO2 emission: 119 to 197 g/km (combined).BMW France, S.A. au capital de 2 805 000 € - 722 000 965 RCS Versailles - 3 avenue Ampère, 78180 Montigny-le-Bretonneux.

BMW EFFICIENTDYNAMICS.LESS EMISSIONS. MORE DRIVING PLEASURE.

4 EDITORIAL Jean-Marc Duvoisin

SIRENSONGOFTHESEA

DEAR CLUB MEMBERS,

Lisbon, that majestic port at the mouth of the Tagus, has enjoyed periodsof great prosperity, particularly as a result of the spice trade in the 16th century.Since then, these spices have found their way into Lisbon’s gastronomy, astasted in the culinary creations of Chef João Rodrigues, who honours localingredients and dishes, especially the ocean’s treasures. His gastronomiccreations include coffee, a substance the Portuguese both love and master.In Lisbon, everything serves as an excuse to have a coffee in a characteristicbar at a bend in the streets of the Bairro Alto, the Alfama or a city overlook.From these belvederes with breathtaking views of the Tagus, visitors arespellbound by the siren song of the sea, the longing for adventure. It is thismelancholy-tinged emotion that is felt in fado, of which our Citizen of Honour,Carminho, is the worldwide ambassador.

In this issue of the magazine, Club Members from the city will share theirsecret sites and favourite haunts. As will the key personalities featured inthese pages. These testimonials weave a fascinating fabric of more than80 select addresses capturing the luminous character of the capital, asintense as the coffee Lisboans most prefer. This aromatic potency is theobjective and outcome of the expertise of Nespresso. It is also the focus ofthe Nespresso AAA Sustainable Quality™ Program and the initiative knownas The Positive Cup. To optimise the farming efforts of our coffee-growingpartners, the latest undertaking helps them combat the impact of climatechange through active reforestation. And to perfect the enjoyment of ourGrands Crus, not a detail escapes the attention of Nespresso, as evidencedby the new line of white porcelain accessories. The Pure Collection – everyday,contemporary articles, scrupulously designed with clean, uncluttered lines– embodies the essence of the brand. Everything you need is here to enjoythe pleasure of an incomparable coffee, like a moment warmed by sunshineon a terrace in Lisbon.

May your reading and your coffee both offer you memorable moments.

JEAN-MARC DUVOISINCEO,Nestlé Nespresso S.A.

PLOUM sofa. Design: Ronan & Erwan Bouroullec.Catalogue: www.ligne-roset.com

6 CONTRIBUTORS

This magazine is printedon paper certified by:

Nespresso MagaziNe

is published by the Nestlé Nespresso

s.a.group

aveNue de rhodaNie 401007 lausaNNe - switzerlaNd

publicatioN director

Jean-Marc Duvoisin.executive editor Lise Peneveyre.

Concept/Production:lagardère custoM publishiNg,9, place Marie-JeaNNe bassot,92300 levallois-perret, FraNce.tel.: +33 (0)1 41 34 93 63executive MaNager

Pascal Laroche.editor-iN-chieF

Boris Coridian.art director

Alexandre “Daltex” Nativel.studio MaNager Matthieu Carré.coordiNators

Nadine Male Hershkovitchwith Anne Pierrot-Plénard.editorial secretary

Marie-Françoise Dufiefwith Marc Frohwirth.

collaborators For this editioN

Jérôme Bilic, Sophie Bouniot,Anne Bouvet, Ana Paula Carvalho,Delphine Cauly, Guillaume Czerw,Juliette de Cadoudal, StéphanieDurteste, Sophie Dupuis-Gaulier,Icinori, Marie Leteuré,Cecil Mathieu, Julien Merali,Virginie Oudard, Florent Tanet.

traNslatioN

TagLine.

advertisiNg MaNageMeNt

Lagardère Publicité.Advertising Manager:Sophie Goussu.Tel.: +33 (0)1 41 34 93 60.

photolitho

Lagardère Publicité.priNterMohn mediaMohndruck GmbH.

© 2015 Nestlé Nespresso S.A.All rights reserved. Nespresso,the names of the variousNespresso coffee varietiesand the Nespresso logosmentioned in the NespressoMagazine are trademarksof the Société des ProduitsNestlé S.A. that may beregistered in certain countries.

GUILLAUME JANJournalist and writerThis seasoned world traveller– author of several novels– is very familiar withthe coffee-producingcountries, having stayedin places such as Peru,Indonesia and Yemen.When in France, he startshis day with a FortissioLungo “while watchingthe sun come up overthe rooftops of Paris.”

BORIS CORIDIANJournalistBoris contributes to severalFrench magazines andnewspapers (M, Le Monde,Les Échos) and is interestedin gastronomy as a barometerof contemporary society.Most importantly, he isan inveterate food lover.“Ever since my stay in Lisbon,I’ve made a habit of havingseveral Dharkan Ristrettosevery day.”

NADIA HAMAMJournalistBetween her Algerianhomeland and her adoptedcountry of Brazil, she thriveson meeting new peopleand seeking out new places.Paris is where she nourishesa love of lifestyle, her worktime and play time. Easyliving that she “savoursfrom the moment she getsup with a Linizio Lungo,served black.”

ALEXANDRE“DALTEX” NATIVELArtistic directorCreation is second nature forthis lover of graphic designand typography. He hasserved as artistic directorfor many entities in fieldsranging from fashion todesign to lifestyle. Thoughnot a coffee drinker himself,he does “adore sniffing thearomas of the Grands Crusthat his co-workers drinkat the office every morning.”

MICKAËL A. BANDASSAKPhotographerAn expat living in Montrealfor the past two years, this“good eats” fan has snappedseveral photo stories for theFrench food book Omnivore.“When I was a kid, I nevermissed my afternoon snack.But I’ve swapped my hotchocolate for a Roma Latte,no sugar, and a big pieceof pound cake.”

JEAN-CHRISTOPHEHUSSONPhotographerThe most important elementof this man’s life is otherpeople. To him, encountersare gifts. He is a portraitistand photojournalistfor the media, advertisingand moviemaking worlds.“There’s nothing I like betterthan drinking a Ristrettoat 4:00 a.m. on a movie setwhen filming is likely to lastuntil late morning,” saysthis all-terrain reporter.

Our team,

Elen

eU

sdin

-Vér

oniq

ueV

ial

7CONTENTS Autumn-Winter 2015-2016

4 EDITORIAL

NOW8 CALENDAR

CULTURE ACROSS THE PLANET

12 TALENT THE SUPER VAN

14 THE N MOMENT

COFFEE IN THE SUN

DESTINATION LISBON16 CITY GUIDE

FIVE CLUB MEMBERS SHARE

THEIR FAVOURITE PLACES

28 CITIZEN OF HONOUR

CARMINHO,THE NEW VOICE OF FADO

34 COFFEE CULTURE

THE QUEST FOR

QUIOSQUES

38 INTERVIEW BOUTIQUE INTERVIEW

NESPRESSO IN THE CHIADO

P.34

P.78 P.84

P.40

P.28

P.68

P.16

P.60

40 CHEF AN EXPLORER

NAMED JOÃO RODRIGUES

46 NATIONAL TREASURE

THE SECRET OF PASTÉIS DE BELÉM

50 AN EXTRAORDINARY STORY

THE COFFEE LOVERS

52 PARTY TIME

INTO THE WEE HOURS

58 CULT OBJECT

UNCANNY DELIGHTS

60 DISCOVERY

SURFING CULTURE:NEW WAVE

68 GOURMET COFFEE

SWEET TOOTH SERENADE

NESPRESSO & YOU74 DESIGN PURE COLLECTION,

QUINTESSENTIAL SWISS DESIGN

78 LIFESTYLE PIXIE CLIPS:COLOUR, COORDINATED

84 THE POSITIVE CUP

AGROFORESTRY: HARNESSING

THE POWER OF TREES

90 PRO MATCHLESS COFFEE

MOMENTS

92 GRAND CRU

THE NEW FACE OF COSI

93 NEWS A CLOSER LOOK AT

INISSIA AND LATTISSIMA TOUCH

94 BOXED SETS

THE SPIRIT OF GIVING

96 SELECTION

LES MACHINES &LES COLLECTIONS

RECIPES

FOOD-COFFEE PAIRINGS

INFORMATION ADDRESSES

AND LISBON CITY GUIDE MAP

COFFEE MARK

CARMINHOJean

-Chr

isto

phe

Hus

son

;Mic

kaël

A.B

anda

ssak

;Jér

ôme

Bili

c;G

uilla

ume

Cze

rw;C

hris

tian

Lam

onta

gne/

Cos

mos

.

8

Whether in art, design or fashion,inspiration cares nothing for timezones. Wherever on earth you may be,you Will find something to appreciatein our cultural calendar.By Nadia Hamam

CREATIVELATITUDES

portugal PoP CulturePortuguese Joana Vasconcelos has be-come a global star of contemporaryart thanks to her baroque, tongue-in-cheek and feminist installations. Herworks, which twist popular folkloreto explore the meaning of beauty, areerected in a 1,300-square-metre spaceon the docks of Lisbon. Open by ap-pointment to the public, Atelier JoanaVasconcelos is home to some forty ar-tisans. Between yoga classes and flocksof free-flying parakeets, these talentedcreators sculpt crochet and azulejos

in an emancipatoryquest. Ultimately, theseartworks will defendtheir aesthetic manifes-tos in renowned sitesaround the world. In2012, Joana Vasconcelosbecame the first womanto take on the Hall

of Mirrors at Versailles. Starting in 2016,her upcoming stops are galleries in Seoul,Rome, Istanbul and São Paulo; public gar-dens in Qatar; the Danish ARoS museumand the Heydar Aliyevart centre for the artsin Baku, Azerbaijan. A rising artistic starto watch! n> www.joanavasconcelos.com L

uis

Vasc

once

los.

The“Lilicopter”.This work waspresented in 2012in the Hall of Mirrorsat Versailles (France).

9NOW Europe

france CHandigarH CallingTo Indians, it is the capital of Punjab and Haryana.For the architectural elite, Chandigarh embodiesa concrete urban utopia and gardens by Le Corbusier.Designed in 1951 for 150,000 inhabitants, the modelcity envisioned by Nehru is now home to oneand a half million people. Is it still avant-garde?> Chandigarh, 50 years after Le Corbusier.Runs 11 November 2015 to 29 February 2016.www.citechaillot.fr

england soViets in sPaCe. a must-see! london is hosting an outstanding collection ofsoviet spacecraft, presented for the first time outside russia. capsules designed for asingle cosmonaut, a vehicle for a full creW, the capsule for the first Woman in space,eQuipment, gadgets, and more. a history of space exploration on a grand soviet scale.> Cosmonauts: Birth of the Space Age. Through 20 March at London’s Science Museum.www.sciencemuseum.ac.uk

france reVolutionarY sneaKerBudding brand Barons Papillom is turning the athleticfootwear world upside-down with a clever new system: the footslips into the shoe from the back, through a 180-degreeVelcro opening. And it comes off as quickly as it goes on.A calfskin insole with cork botanical insert means it can beworn barefoot. We love the option for fine gold trim.> www.baronspapillom.comIr

aklii

Toid

ze,“

Inth

eN

ame

ofPe

ace”

,195

9.Pu

blis

hed

byIz

ogiz

,©T

heM

emor

ialM

useu

mof

Cos

mon

autic

s;R

émiP

apill

ault,

DR

.

sWeden roYal designHis Highness the Prince of Sweden, aka Carl PhilipBernadotte, and Oscar Kylberg (Bernadotte& Kylberg design collective) have createdthese Aquatic vases for the Danish brand Stelton.Their inspiration: the Baltic Sea archipelagos.> www.stelton.com

roYal design

10 NOW Americas

united states Board suPPort. paul mccarthy is a master of controversy, but cooperation comes eas-ily to the artist, too. after china’s ai WeiWei, berliner andy hope and Japan’s araki, this american

creator is collaborating With the brand the skateroom to design ten skateboards (in super-limited

editions) using his photographic Works. the goal is to support the ngo skateistan as it builds africa’sfirst skatepark in Johannesburg. > On sale at the MoMA Design Store (New York) or on www.theskateroom.com

“La

Cal

eta”

,©St

udio

Dav

idPo

mpa

;Pau

lMcC

arth

y&

The

Skat

eroo

m;F

erna

ndo

Rom

ero

Ente

rpri

se.

united states latino CultureMiami is going through a periodof architectural effervescence,with buildings of every ilk poppingup like mushrooms, includingthe new Latin American Art Museum(LAAM). Backed by collectorGary Nader, designed by Mexicanarchitect Fernando Romero,the LAAM will stand out on BiscayneBoulevard with its vertical interlacingof interior spaces and art-decked patios.> Opens in January 2016.www.fr-ee.org/laam

mexico Moulding MeMoriesBorn of an Austrian mother and a Mexican father,designer David Pompa breathes contemporary life intoancient Mexican crafts. He preserves memory withhis own style using techniques and materials like blackclay from the Mexican state of Oaxaca, Talavera pottery– a legacy of Spanish colonialism – or plastic weaving.Everything is hand-crafted for an elegant, ethnic lookand all can be admired in his Mexico City shop.> www.davidpompa.com

11NOW World

©To

uris

mD

evel

opm

enta

ndIn

vest

men

tCom

pany

;Stu

dio

Chr

isto

phe

Pille

t;Im

age

cour

tesy

the

artis

tand

976

Art

Gal

lery

,Ula

anba

atar

©T

hear

tist.

united arab emirates a MuseuM is BornThe dimensional extremes so loved in the UAE find morerefined expression in the world of art. As in the LouvreAbu Dhabi, which will at last see the light of day thanksto Jean Nouvel. The French “starchitect” has reinterpretedthe iconic dome with Arabic aesthetics, and two of these massive,openwork, hemispherical structures house the collectionsin a patterning of light that makes the space truly magical.> Opens in early 2016.louvreabudhabi.ae

australia PaCiFiC eXHiBit. it’s the eighth asia pacific triennial of contemporary art in

brisbane, the region’s largest event in the realm of art. maJor creative trends can be tracked

at the Queensland art gallery and gallery of modern art at a gathering that draWs nearly

80 artists from 30 countries. mongolia, nepal, iraQ, georgia and kyrgyzstan are taking

part for the first time. from 21 november 2015 to 10 april 2016 > www.qagoma.qld.gov.au

turkey Fine FurnisHingsTurkish furniture producer ENNE appreciates Europeandesigners and proves it by giving them carte blanche.In 2015, France’s Christophe Pillet has reinvented the coffeetable into something that is half pedestal, half iconicTam Tam stool. The three Ilia models, in Istanbul-craftedstained glass, bring new energy to your interior décor.Lovely, lively and luxuriously liveable.> www.enne.com.tr

12

THE SUPERVANVanessa Teodoro beforeone of her works on Ruadas Murtas, on the wallsurrounding a psychiatrichospital, a platform thatthe city has reserved forthe work of street artists.

At the office, VAnessA teodoro is An illustrAtor.on the street, she becomes the super VAn,A street Artist whose frescoes illumine the streetsof lisbon. By Nadia Hamam Photo Jean-Christophe Husson

THESUPERVANCITY SPRAY

13NOW Talent

IT’S NOT JUST BAD BOYS LEAVINGTHEIR MARKS IN THE STREET ANYMORE.AEROSOL CANS ARE NOW FOUND IN THEHANDS OF CONTEMPORARY CULTURALCONQUERORS. Like 31-year-old streetartist Vanessa Teodoro, aka The Super Van.This exacting, enthusiastic woman hadlong sought her artistic identity throughgraphic design, commercial art and illus-tration before the answer appeared: thewall would be her medium and her future.Her goad: the taunting gaze of other

graffiti artists “curious to see what kind ofguts a girl had.” Her muse: the street, this“entity that overwhelms you, that makesyou let go of the fear of how others seeyou.” Her sponsor: Lisbon, where the citygovernment supports creativity by provid-ing places to paint: car parks, garbagetrucks, abandoned buildings. Which TheSuper Van covers in frescoes of blackand white or solid colours, often featuringtransgressive female figures. “My heroinesare not pretty; they ruffle the feathers

of a very male world with humour andvoluptuous delight. I want to make peoplefeel, think, explore and unveil their innercharacter.” As can be seen in the streetsof Lisbon, which, in just thirty years, havebecome one of the world’s great open-airmuseums of contemporary art. n

> Latest news: This fall, the artist isworking in the Principe Real district,near her studio.www.thesupervan.com

14

COFFEEIN THESUNBy Guillaume Jan Illustration Delphine Cauly

IN PORTUGAL,BLACK IS CONSIDERED A COLOUR. Could itbe because of that dusky, sweet brew, the Vinho do Porto?Or the gleaming coats of the long-horned bulls? The treesstarkly silhouetted at sunset against the azure-pink sky?Above all, in Lisbon, black is the colour of the bica – thatgood, strong ristretto with the pungent, spicy, compellingaroma that hundreds of thousands of locals drink everyday at home, in the rococo Baixa brasseries, the barsgraced with intricate, soaring ceilings around the Jardimda Estrela, on the zinc counters of the Alfama’s greasyspoons, at the quiosques along Avenida da Liberdadeand on the terraces of romantic belvederes on the banksof the Tagus. “Desculpe se faz favor queria uma bica!”(“A bica, please!”). After only a few days in this benevo-lent, cosmopolitan city, at once melancholic and spirited,

you’ll be confidently hailing waitersby imitating the other customers. Butwhere did the word bica come from?One legend has it that the term firstappeared in the early 20th century, whenA Brasileira – an establishment thathad already earned renown in theChiado – started using its first coffeemachines. The resulting concentratewas bitter, strong and full-bodied – butno-one had ever tasted a beverageof this potency in Lisbon. To consum-

ers who complained, the boss replied that it could bemade more palatable with sweetening. “Beba isso comaçucar” (“Drink it with sugar”) was his rejoinder morning,noon and night. That tip became a slogan, entered thelocal vernacular, and was ultimately reduced to an ac-ronym in one of those unseen linguistic conjuring tricksthat southern cities execute with such skill. Meanwhile,residents became accustomed to sipping this rich,radiant brew. Today, in fact, some say it is like drinkingsunbeams, infusing the body with the same warmth andpleasure. Try it yourself and see: take a ride one morningup to one of the promontories overlooking the capitaland order “uma bica”. From there on high, the noise ofthe city fades into the blue of the sky, yet you can stillsense the distinct bustle of urban life below. Sunshineilluminates your surroundings, soaking into the tile roofs,sparkling across the waters of the Tagus and ending itsjourney in the dark depths of your cup. Now you willunderstand why they say that, in Portugal, coffee is asimportant as the sun. n

NOW The N moment

READY-TO-INSTALL CURTAINS AND SHEER CURTAINS, WINDOW SHADES, THROWS, PILLOWS AND HOME ACCESSORIES

NEW YORK : 909 BROADWAY, FLATIRON (@20th street) - 1162 MADISON AVENUE (@86th street)HONG KONG : 33 WELLINGTON STREET, CENTRAL - 18 GOUGH STREET, CENTRAL - 120 QUEEN’S ROAD EAST, WAN CHAI

PARIS 8e : 6 RUE TRONCHET - PARIS 1er : 156 RUE DE RIVOLI - PARIS 4e BHV Marais - PARIS 6e : 66 RUE DE RENNES - PARIS 9e : GALERIES LAFAYETTE MAISONPARIS 15e BEAUGRENELLE - AIX EN PROVENCE - BORDEAUX - CAEN - CANNES - DIJON - GRENOBLE - LILLE - LYON - MARSEILLE - METZ - MONTPELLIERNANTES - NICE - CAP 3000 - NIMES - ORLEANS - RENNES - ROUEN - STRASBOURG - TOULOUSE - TOURS - BRUXELLES - LUXEMBOURG - ATHENES - TUNISNANTES - NICE - CAP 3000 - NIMES - ORLEANS - RENNES - ROUEN - STRASBOURG - TOULOUSE - TOURS - BRUXELLES - LUXEMBOURG - ATHENES - TUNIS

www.facebook.com/madura.fr

THELIGHTFive Nespresso Club MeMbers share theirFavourite plaCes aNd seCret sites iN lisboN.iNvitiNg us to eNter the portuguese CapitalaNd lose ourselves iN its depths – FroMthe awe-iNspiriNg views at loFty belvederesto the alFaMa’s taNtalisiNg, twisted laNes– to truly appreCiate its radiaNCe.By Guillaume Jan

Photos Mickaël A. Bandassak Portraits Jean-Christophe Husson

BASKING IN

16 17CITY Guide

PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES 1

The entrance tothe Portugal pavilionunveiled at the1998 World Exposition.This building by architectAlvaro Siza Vieirais one of the emblematicedifices in the “Park ofNations”, east of the city.

Find all the addresses referred to in this City Guide on our map at the back of the magazine.

JOSÉInsurance company marketIng dIrector,member sInce 2005

JOSÉ IS A REAL CHARACTER.He’s larger-than-life, witha mischievous gleam in his eye.Lisbon-born, a person who knowsthe city inside out. He’s seen a numberof neighbourhoods improve with timeand relishes being able to biketo the beach nearly year round.His career as a marketing directorand his taste for travel mean he’sa frequent flyer and he tells us outrightthat his PIXIE Titanium is in hisluggage on every trip. Like whenhe went to India for a meditationretreat. “The yoga classes startedat 5 a.m., before breakfast. ButI can’t start my day without coffee.So I brought my machine with me,along with my ROMA and ARPEGGIOcapsules.” Does he have anotheranecdote? “Last year, I was invitedto a seminar in Denmark. I didn’tknow if I’d find decent coffee there,so I took my machine. As I wentthrough airport security, my suitcaseset off the metal detector. But,as the customs agent approachedfor the hand-search, I told her it wasmy PIXIE. Her face lit up with a smileand she let me go without eveninspecting my bag.” n

18

MIRACLE CURESRESTAURANTE PHARMACIA 4

“This bistro near the PharmacyMuseum offers a mix of traditionalPortuguese cuisine in a hospital-inspired décor. The water is servedin old ether bottles, the soup comesin little vials and the bill for yourmeal is brought in a test tube.It’s getting very popular!”

FESTIVE NIGHTSMENINOS DO RIO 3

“The terrace ofthe Meninos do Rio

on the banks ofthe Tagus is a must!This place is famous

for its restaurantand nightlife, but

I prefer to visit duringthe day. They even

serve breakfast there.”

URBAN BANQUETMERCADO DA RIBEIRA 8

“This huge glass hall adjacentto the market, near the train

station, is home to several majorrestaurateurs who joined forces

to serve reasonably priced dishesthat you eat on long tablesrunning down the middle

of the hall. It provides a greatoverview of Lisbon cuisine.”

José knowsthe cityinside outand relishesbeing ableto bike tothe beachyear round.

DISTANT HORIZONSTERRASSE BA 2

“From the hotel’ssixth floor, you cangaze out over the roofstumbling all the waydown to the Tagus.The ever-changing lightand the hills on theopposite bank sometimesremind me of Istanbul.The atmosphere there isrelaxed and the cocktailsare excellent.”

INTERNATIONAL FLAIRCAIS DO SODRÉ 5

“This neighbourhood along the Tagus has recentlycome back to life. For example, near the trainstation, try Ibo 6, a Mozambican eatery that servesthe best crab curry in Lisbon. Or the Station 7,Asian restaurant, which also has an informaldance club (photo). I also like the bar, which hasa mind-boggling drinks menu.”

19

Since studying at theConservatory, Angelahas never wantedto live anywhere else.

CENTRE STAGECENTRO CULTURAL DE BELÉM qs

“This modern complex on the banks of the Tagus,near the Belém Tower, hosts every form of stageart, theatre, dance and music. The entertainmentline-up is lively and the place is open to youngartists. I’ve given many concerts there myselfand the acoustics are excellent.”

LEGENDARY RAILSTRAM 28 9

“When I was a student, I lived in the Graça quarter and I took that oldwooden tram, painted yellow and white, every day. It passes throughLisbon’s older neighbourhoods, like the Alfama and Bairro Alto, climbingup and down dizzying hills. Looking at those panoramic views each day,I felt like I was living a beautiful dream.”

OUTDOOR INTERLUDECAFÉ LISBOA qd

“This restaurant near the São Luiz theatre,inside the São Carlos theatre, serves very

good Portuguese cuisine. And in summertime,you can eat on the terrace while enjoying

the performances we give outdoors.”

CELEBRATED STATUEA BRASILEIRA qp

“Just off the Pastelaria Benard, this Art Decocafé is best known to tourists for its statueof poet Fernando Pessoa sitting at a tablein the middle of the terrace. It is rich withpolished woodwork, gilding and chandeliersand is where all the poets, philosophersand artists of Lisbon would gather.”

FRONT ROWSÃO LUIZ TEATRO MUNICIPAL qq

“It’s a beautiful theatre. Built in the late19th century, it was renovated severaltimes, but has always retained the originalstyle, with gilding, chandeliers and velvet.Few Lisboans know this, but it’s open tothe public. You can simply go in to admirethe building’s magnificent architecture,and it’s free!”

20 21

ANGELAopera sInger,member sInce 2007

GARRULOUS AND PLAYFUL,Angelatells us she considers herselfa lucky woman. “I love my jobas a mezzo-soprano and I livein a magnificent city.” Since arrivingin Lisbon in the early 1990s to studyat the Escola Superior de Musica,the nation’s music conservatory,she has never wanted to liveanywhere else. “The light is beautifuland the people are cosmopolitan.Though there are nationalitiesfrom around the world here, the cityis still modest in size, people sayhello, there’s a relaxed atmosphere.”She also appreciates the qualityof life in this open-minded citywhere you can go swimming afterwork and enjoy a cup of coffeein the sun any time of year. “I drinkfive or six cups a day. I don’t likecoffee that’s too strong, and whenI discovered Nespresso machinesand Grands Crus, it changed my life.It means I can choose and preparecoffee that’s just to my liking.In the morning, I have one or twoFORTISSIO LUNGOs; as the dayprogresses, I prefer a VOLLUTO ora ROSABAYA de Colombia. Anotheradvantage with Nespresso is that,wherever I may be in Portugal,they deliver capsules in just24 to 48 hours.” n

JOSÉ CARLOSFIlmmaker,member sInce 2006

BORN IN LISBON IN THE 1950s,this film director has often travelledabroad for long periods of timefor his film shoots. But he alwayscomes back to his home port.“I live 10 kilometres fromdowntown, facing the sea –it’s magical.” He has witnessedLisbon’s evolution with the passageof time, watching it becomea cosmopolitan city as touristshave flocked here over the pasttwo decades. But the directorhas also found that the qualityof coffee is on the decline.“Nowadays, it’s a challengeto find good coffee to enjoyin town. Fortunately, Nespressocame along!” he laughs. Eversince he tasted his first Nespressoin 2006, he gave up grindinghis coffee beans and boughtan ESSENZA for his kitchen(“a simple, efficient machine”)and a PIXIE for his office (“faster,but not as discreet”). He sayshe drinks five coffees a day,but admits, “I often drink morethan that!” n

22

POSTCARDFORTIFICATIONSAT THE MOUTHOF THE TAGUS

“Starting inthe 16th century,

several towers werebuilt at the mouth

of the Tagus to protectLisbon, including

the Bugio lighthousebuilt on a tiny island.

In the summer,you can visit all these

places by boat.”

EPICUREAN INTERMISSIONRESTAURANTE ALFAIA qf

“Excellent wine, impeccable cuisine, delightful manager.This low-key tavern should be a mandatory stop for anyonein the Bairro Alto. It serves a wide sampling of typicalPortuguese dishes that you can eat on tables outside or inside.”

CREATIVE BAZAARFEIRA DA LADRA qg

“This flea market haseverything you could imagine:clothing, artwork, furniture,geographical maps. The lasttime I went, I bought a clock,a cane and some books. I alsogo for the people-watchingand find inspiration in theirconversations for the charactersin my upcoming movies.”

IN THE HEART OF THE CITYMERCADO DE CAMPODE OURIQUE qj

“This newly renovated hall isa place little-known to tourists.You can get great productsthere and even enjoy lunchat a reasonable price, eatingat a little table with the localregulars. A nice way to immerseyourself in Lisbon’s culture.”

GREEN GETAWAYQUINTA REAL DE CAXIAS GARDENS qh

“These lush gardens are perfectly manicured and justtwenty minutes or so from Lisbon, after Belém. There’san amazing waterfall there, and statues of JoaquimMachado de Castro that were erected in the 18th century.It’s a soothing place, quiet, uncrowded, steeped inromanticism.”

FilmmakerJosé Carlos haswitnessedLisbon’sevolution,watching itbecome acosmopolitancity.

23

For Rui,“you can findeverythinghere, andthe diningis just superb.”

AIMING HIGHSÃO JORGE CASTLE sp

“This medieval building overlooksthe city – you can’t miss it! You can seeeverything from up there – the bustlingsquares, passers-by on the streets,the terraces, roofs, the Tagus River...I never tire of looking at the spectacleand it sheds light on how the city isstructured.”

MANNA FROM HEAVENCAFÉ DE SÃO BENTO sq

“For many years, my favouritedish was the steak and fries. In this

small, quintessentially Portugueserestaurant close to the National

Assembly, the meat is always delicious,regardless of how it’s cooked. The menu

also boasts excellent cheeses fromthe Serra da Estrela mountains.”

CULINARY SYMPHONYRESTAURANTE BELCANTO ss

“Taken over in 2011 by young chefJosé Avillez, this restaurant has alreadybeen awarded two Michelin stars.The menu is poetry itself, and it evengives a tip of the hat to FernandoPessoa. The cuisine is Portugueseinspired, delightful in its combinationof new items and discoveries, includingmolecular gastronomy. It’s an upscaleplace if you want a memorable diningand aesthetic experience.”

RITE OF PASSAGEPRAÇA DO COMÉRCIO ql

“Everything is laid out in perfectsymmetry on this vast square thatopens onto the river. It’s a placewhere I love taking my strolls.In recent years, it’s been possibleto go up onto the triumphal archof the main gate.”

CULTURAL OASISCALOUSTE-GULBENKIAN FOUNDATION qk

“The museum is home to Egyptian antiquities,Eastern and Western art from the Middle Agesto the 19th century and the arts centre displaysa wonderful collection of contemporary works.Set in the midst of rolling, landscaped grounds,the foundation is dotted with lakes and modernsculptures and holds outdoor concertsin summertime. A very relaxing place.”

24

RUIsocIologIst,member sInce 2008

“I WASN’T BORN IN LISBON,butI’ve always had this city inside me,long before I was born, becausemy parents are both Lisboan”.Rui settled in the capital as soonas the professional opportunitypresented itself, joining the humanresources department of a majortelephone company. “You can findeverything here – books, concerts,football matches. The light issublime, especially at sunset whenthe last rays are sparkling onthe waters of the Tagus, there arecountless viewpoints for lookingdown onto the city and the diningis just superb.” That’s whathe likes most about Lisbon:the friendliness of the people,sharing time with friends overa good meal or a perfect cupof coffee. “We’re Latin, so we liketo talk and joke about everything– except football, of course.”He remembers the first Grand Cruhe drank, at his aunt’s house:“It was a RISTRETTO. I have verytraditional tastes.” A few dayslater, he bought a CUBE machineto recreate this newly discoveredpleasure: enjoying such coffeeat home. “I’m still using the sameone, eight years later. My wifewants us to replace it, but I won’tallow it: it makes the best coffeein Lisbon for us and it never,ever breaks down.” n

25

MARIAphysIotherapIst,member sInce 2014

BORN IN FINLAND,MARIAfell in love with the city andthe Portuguese coastlinethe very first time she visited,in 2009. “I felt at home rightaway; I’d never had sucha feeling before. I walked aroundlike a child in wonderland.”The young woman was especiallydrawn to the attitude of thepeople living here – friendly,yet respectful, polite, helpful.She also discovered a verydifferent coffee culture fromthe one she’d grown accustomedto in Finland. “I learned todistinguish the various aromas,the different families. I learnedthat morning coffee is notnecessarily the same kind youdrink in the afternoon. Drinkingcoffee is like wine tasting – it’sa learned art.” When Mariabought her ESSENZA machinefrom the Nespresso Boutiquein the Chiado quarter, she alsoselected a capsule of eachGrand Cru to study their aromaticprofiles. Now she starts her dayswith a FORTISSIO LUNGO,served in a ceramic cup shenestles between her palms.And she replaced her dessertat lunchtime with a cupof CIOCATTINO. n

26

Finn Mariafell in lovewith Lisbonright away.

VEGGIE LUNCHEONMISS SAIGON sf

“Lisbon is hometo an increasingnumber of vegetarianrestaurants. This oneis in the new Parquedas Nações quarter.The menu changes dailyand the chef preparesdishes from aroundthe world, often usingmarket-fresh ingredients.”

UNDERWATER DREAMSLISBON OCEANARIUM sg

“The first time I visited this aquarium, one of the largest in Europe,I suddenly wanted to change careers and become a marine biologist.The life under the surface of the ocean, the exquisite colours – I wasfascinated by it all, but also rather intimidated.”

WORTHYWORDSLIVRARIA BIVAR sj

“This library is oneof the few places inLisbon where I canbuy novels in English.Leena, the owner,is Finnish, like me.I’m one of her loyalcustomers, and wetalk a lot about thebooks we’re reading.”

SWEET SNACKPASTÉIS DE BELÉM sh

“These little goldencustards, in a delicately

crispy pastry, areLisbon’s ‘national

treasure’. SometimesI get the urge to eat

one or two, alongwith a powerful cup

of dharkaN.”

LAVENDER LANESTHE TREES IN ROSSIO sd

“In the spring, when the jacarandas are in bloom,the sidewalks of Rossio and other neighbourhoodstake on a blue-violet hue. It’s astounding, almostsurreal. I never get weary of admiring them;I feel like I’m walking through a magical forest!”

27

28 29CITIZEN of honour

THEVOICEOFLISBON

FADO FLOWS IN HER VEINS THE WAYTHE TAGUS FLOWS AT LISBON’S FEET.CARMINHO, 31, EMBODIES THE REVIVALOF THIS TRADITIONAL GENRE OF MUSIC.SHE IS A TALENTED ARTIST WITH A BRIGHTFUTURE, KEEPING PACE WITH THE PRESENTBY NOURISHING HER ART WITH THE PAST.By Boris Coridian Photos Jean-Christophe Husson

CARMINHO

30

HERVOICEWRAPS AROUNDYOU,CARESSINGYOUR EARWITHITS VELVETY TIMBRE. THE LYRICS, DRENCHED IN HER POIGNANTRESONANCE, THRUM WITH THE CHORDS OF THE GUITAR UNTILPIERCING YOUR VERY SOUL. WHEN CARMINHO INTONES THEFIRST VERSES OF A FADO SONG, SHE CLOSES HER EYES ANDOPENS HER HEART.AND THE WHOLE OF LISBON ENTERS IN.The31-year-old singer embodies the revival of a traditionalmusical style popularised in the 1960s by the magnificentAmalia Rodrigues. Carminho is the new star that the entirecountry had been awaiting to bring back this popularart form born on the banks of the Tagus, like the youngwoman singing it. Fado is one of Lisbon’s most precioustreasures: songs that are at once music and poetry, per-formed by a male or female singer accom-panied by acoustic guitar and the guitarraportuguesa (a pear-shaped, twelve-steel-string cittern). How does Carminhoherself define her art, one that, since2011, is on UNESCO’s RepresentativeList of the Intangible Cultural Heritage ofHumanity? “It’s music of the street.Music sung by people who had a veryhard life, who needed to express theirfeelings to help bear the burden of theirfate. Fado is more than a melodic song;it’s a lifestyle, like the blues. Most of the lyrics refer toLisbon, its neighbourhoods, the wind, the ocean. Thesongs often personify the city as a woman and the Tagusas her lover,” says the young singer as she sits with a cupof coffee.

PHOTO ALBUMCarminho’s personality and that of her hometown are

inseparable. They share the same antagonisms. Theycan be luminous one moment and sombre the next;nostalgic, yet steadfastly modern; yearning for thepast while looking today’s world in the eye. “We loveto wade in the waters of the past, reliving moments the

way you might leaf through a photoalbum,” says the artist with the half-smile that rarely leaves her lips. Withthree albums to her name – the firsttwo certified platinum in Portugaland the latest released in November2014 – and a host of national andinternational awards, Carminho nowserves as one of the major ambas-sadors of her country. Though itseems a natural destiny for her, itwas nevertheless slow to develop:

“My mother is a fadista (Teresa Siqueira – Ed.). I startedlistening to this music when I was three years old. Atnight, I stood behind the door in my pyjamas to listen.”On some nights, singer Beatriz da Conceição – her rolemodel – was invited to the house. “I eavesdroppedand deciphered the adult conversations, because fadohas a language all its own.” Starting at age 12, whenshe was regularly singing within her family circle, sheperformed at one of Lisbon’s most exquisite venues, theColiseu dos Recreios. Later, Carminho continued

“Fadois more than amelodic song;it’s a lifestyle,like the blues.”

SEVEN TURNING POINTSFOR CARMINHO1984: Born in Lisbon.1986: Her parents, fadista Teresa Siqueira

and Nuno Rebelo de Andrade,go to live with family in the Algarve.

1996: After returning to Lisbon, makes herfirst stage appearance at age 12 atthe Coliseu dos Recreios.

2006: Earns her marketing degree and beginstravelling extensively.

2009: Releases Fado, her first album(EMI Music).

2012: Releases her album Alma (EMI Music).2014: Releases her album Canto

(Warner Music Portugal).

••• Phot

oof

Car

min

hoin

conc

ert:

Fran

cisc

oSa

lgue

iro.

31

32

CENTRE CITY The wind sweepsthe Rossio, the city’s historic plazawith the famous undulating mosaic.

33

WHERE MIGHT YOU ENCOUNTERCARMINHO IN LISBON?Miradouro de Santa Luzia sk

“On the slopes of the Alfama district, this overlookoffers a magnificent view of the Tagus. I still go upthere from time to time.”

MeSa de FradeS sl

“A fado house where I sang from ages 17 to 23.The restaurant is located in a tiny old chapelof the Alfama. People eat, sing and listen.”

a CeviCheria dp

“A Peruvian-tinged restaurant that serves sublimeceviches and excellent cocktails, like the Pisco sour.It’s in the Principe Real district. There are plentyof fashion designer boutiques there in the old buildings.”

ProCóPio Bar dq

“A place steeped in history and love stories. It hasthe atmosphere of a fado house, with all the little lights,the smell of old wood and velvet...”

her university studies while also singing in casas de Fado(Fado houses). The admiring public clamoured for her toembark on the career that called her. But the attractivebrunette, with her marketing degree in hand, chose toset off on other adventures. “I wanted to really get a tasteof life. I was offered a record deal, but I didn’t feel I wasmature enough to do the music justice on stage. I neededto know what message I wanted to convey. But it allbecame clear after what I experienced asan international volunteer in Portugal andCape Verde, and during my travels in India,Cambodia, East Timor and Peru. When I gotback from that odyssey, I felt like I wasready.” So, when she was 25, she releaseda debut album that spoke to a younger au-dience. And, though pundits wanted to labelher “new fado”, the artist prefers to explainthis renaissance in other terms: “Fado haschanged because our country has changed.We went through the dictatorship (Salazarstarting in 1933 – Ed.) and then the revolutionthat ended it (A Revolução dos Cravos, theCarnation Revolution, 25 April 1974 – Ed.).Now people are trying to build somethingnew despite this complicated economic environment. Thenew generation is taking stock of life: ‘What do I have?What do I have left?’ In face of all the hardships, thosepeople are choosing their own safe harbours. When you’re

sick, what do you do? You go find your mother. Fadois one of our mothers.”

INTERNATIONAL SUCCESSAnd a universal mother, if one considers the world-

wide success of Carminho andthis budding fado comeback scene.The Lisboan singer performs farfrom her homeland, from Germanyto Japan, stunning fans with hersongs and style: “The audiencemay not understand the lyrics, butthey feel the emotion in everyword.” Such intensity should notbe confused with melancholy:“Fado isn’t sad – it’s deep!” thesinger cries emphatically as shefinishes her Grand Cru Dulsãodo Brasil. Yet there is indeed aglimpse of saudade there. “Thisuntranslatable word expresses

yearning, longing, missing. Like when I’m abroad, I cansay ‘I saudade my coffee’ that I’m so attached to,”laughs Carminho. And now what does she dream ofexperiencing? “It’s hard for me to really absorb what’sbeen happening to me! Singing, performing with mymother or stars like Chico Buarque, Caetano Veloso,Marisa Monte. Right now, I just want to enjoy thehappiness that life is giving me. And keep on creating,so that it stays real. Sometimes you can have a sourceof great happiness right in front of you and it doesn’tmanifest because you don’t assign it enough impor-tance.” In Lisbon, saudade is never far away. n

“Foreignaudiences maynot understandthe lyrics,but they feelthe emotionin every word.”

AUTOGRAPH SESSION Carminho signs theCoffee Mark page (in the back of your NespressoMagazine) at the twilight of the Procópio bar.

> Find all the addresses referred to above on our mapat the back of the magazine.

34 BANANACAFE ds , Praça do Município.

QUIOSQUE DE REFRESCO df , Praça Luís de Camões.

BIBLIOTECA dd , Jardim da Estrela.

QUIOSQUE DO MERCADO dg , Praça da Estrela.

35COFFEE Culture

FORQUIOSQUES

They are scaTTered abouT The meTropolis,peppering The lisbon ciTyscape: quiosques.These peTiTe period pavilions, now modernised,are The perfecT place for a snack or beveragealong your urban journey. iT mighT be saidThaT The very soul of lisbon hides beneaThThese charming, ancienT, finialed roofs…By Guillaume Jan Photos Mickaël A. Bandassak

THEQUEST

QUIOSQUE DE REFRESCO dh , Praça das Flores. QUIOSQUE PRÍNCIPE REAL dj , Praça do Principe Real.

36

ALTHOUGH THEY HAVE BEEN PART OF THE LISBONLANDSCAPE FOR 150 YEARS, THE QUIOSQUES QUITE NEARLYFADED INTO OBLIVION. They stand in every neighbourhood,on squares, atop promontories, in parks, along majoravenues… and, since 2009, they have been attractingrenewed attention. For that was the year the Lisbon CityCouncil announced an initial bid putting several up for useas private concession stands. A fresh coat of paint, youngerstaff, an updated menu…and suddenly these small metalkiosks, often decorated with ornate metalwork, foundnew life. José, a bank employee, confirms this as he sitsnear one of the kiosks (quiosques in Portuguese) on theAvenida da Liberdade: “Back in the 1980s, they were sell-ing the same products they do today – coffee, cold drinks,pastries – , except the stands were old and unattrac-tive. Most of them didn’t have tables inviting us to comethere to take a break.” On this Friday night, a young DJis playing Jamaican music and the clientele is made upof equal parts of Lisbon locals and tourists. There areplenty kiosks to choose from, with seventy stands in thePortuguese capital spanning every architectural styleand colour. And each has its own ambiance, dependingon the personality of the staff and the location. What’smore, the menus have something for everyone: from theLisboan “classics” (rissois de bacalhau - cod fritters;croquete de carne – breaded and fried meat-corianderroll; pastéis de nata - the sweet symbol of the city; bolo de

GENGIBRE DA ESTRELA dk , Jardim da Estrela.

QUIOSQUE DE REFRESCO fp , Praça de São Paulo.

QUIOSQUE DO MIRADOURO DE SÃO PEDRO DE ALCÂNTARA dl 37

arroz – the local muffin; and more) to international options(like gourmet hamburgers, trendy hot dogs, smoothies).

INEXPENSIVE EATSThe people of Lisbon have been the first to celebrate

the revival of the small neighbourhood pavilions. Many eattheir breakfasts at these stands, or take several refresh-ment breaks there over the course of the day. And foreignvisitors – more numerous here each year, since the touristboom began in the late 1990s – are delighted to stop atthese charming, characteristic locales, often ideally setalong sightseeing routes and less expensive than bars.“The kiosks are different from cafés,” says Victor, 28, whoworked for three years at the quiosque de refresco onPlaça Luís de Camões: “There are no walls; you’re in apublic space.” The young man, who just completed hisanthropology studies before starting this job, believesthat the economic crisis hitting the country has no doubtcontributed to the revival of these popular places pro-viding inexpensive eats. “But that’s not the only reason,”says David, a regular customer at the Principe RealOliveira kiosk. “The Portuguese people love being outand about, enjoying the good weather. And if that can bedone around a meal, all the better!” n

BANANACAFE fs , Avenida da Liberdade. QUIOSQUE DE REFRESCO fd ,Largo da Sé.

QUIOSQUE RIBEIRA DAS NAUS fq , Avenida Ribeira das Naus.

> Find all the addresses referred to above on our mapat the back of the magazine.

38

HOW DO PEOPLE DRINK COFFEE IN PORTUGAL?The morning coffee is the most important. Nearly 90% ofPortuguese people start the day with a very intense coffee.Sometimes with a splash of milk, but rarely lungo. Wereally love Espresso! In Lisbon, there’s a specific name fora small, very strong coffee: you have to ask for “uma bica”!The Grand Cru that most resembles it is Kazaar, served ina ristretto cup.

WHAT ARE THE KEY COFFEE MOMENTSIN LISBON?During the workday, when you take abreak, you have a cup of coffee. Afterlunch, you order another. If you meet afriend during the day, you’ll enjoy a cupthen, too. Here, it’s not unusual to drinkthree, four or five coffees a day.

IF YOU HAD TO COMPARE YOUR CITYTO A GRAND CRU,WHICH WOULD IT BE?The Roma, served ristretto. Because it’sintense, with real punch, but it’s still aGrand Cru that’s mild to the palate. Andalso because the name is an anagram ofamor (“love” in Portuguese – Ed.).

WHAT’S THE IDEAL TIME AND PLACEFOR ENJOYING COFFEE HERE?I think it’s in the afternoon, because of this very speciallight that floods the city. At day’s end, around 6:00 p.m.,when you leave the office and get outside, you should sit

on a terrace somewhere and admire a beautiful viewwith a cup of coffee.

HOW DO YOU EXPRESS LISBON’S AMBIANCEIN THE NESPRESSO BOUTIQUES?The Coffee Specialists who greet you are the ones whoreally set the tone. When they welcome customers intothe Boutique, they’re keen to tell them a story, share in-formation. Our Club Members enjoy learning about the

different origins of the Grands Crus,understanding their aromas. This verywarm relationship and eagerness tocommunicate are what make the peo-ple of Lisbon so remarkable.

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITEGRANDS CRUS?I love the Intenso range, like Dharkanand Roma. I was born in Lisbon andcan’t help but honour my coffee roots!

ADDRESSES OF THE NESPRESSOBOUTIQUES IN LISBONNespresso Boutique no Chiado.Nespresso Boutique no Colombo.

Nespresso Boutique na Av. António Augusto Aguiar.Nespresso Boutique no Parque das Nações.

AND IN THE VICINITY…Nespresso Boutique no Oeiras Parque.Nespresso Boutique Interactiva no Forum Sintra.Nespresso Boutique no CascaiShopping.Nespresso Boutique no Almada Forum.

“Here, it’snot unusualto drinkthree, fouror five coffeesa day.”

VERACRUZ“WEREALLYLOVEESPRESSO”A moment with VerA Cruz,Boutique mAnAger At nespressoflAgship in lisBon, set withinAn historiC Building in the ChiAdo.she explAins the Very personAlrelAtionship the portuguesehAVe with Coffee.By Boris Coridian Photos Jean-Christophe Husson

39BOUTIQUE Interview

WHERE CAN YOU ENJOYNESPRESSO COFFEEIN LISBON?HOTEL SANTA JUSTA ff

Right downtown, near the Nespresso Boutique.TARTINE fg

The delicious smell of bread, a verdant setting,perfect for coffee or breakfast with friends.ROYALE CAFÉ fh

A streamlined restaurant boastingScandinavian-inspired décor.

HIKIDASHI fjA trendy eatery where the sushi is preparedbefore your very eyes.

IN THE VICINITYPENHA LONGA HOTEL & RESORT fk

A superb golf resort set in the Sintra-Cascaisnature park.VIVAMARINHA HOTEL fl

Vivamarinha HotelFor a relaxing coffee at the pool bar.

INTENSE TASTEThe Portuguese appreciate the potentGrands Crus, like Kazaar and Roma.

40

EPICUREANJOÃORODRIGUES

João RodRigues, Chef of the MiChelin-staRRed RestauRant feitoRia,is the standaRd-beaReR of a new eRa in PoRtuguese gastRonoMy,one PRoud of its teRRoiR and its ingRedients. he dRaws onthe CulinaRy legaCy of the gReat disCoveRies of the Past and setsoff, alone oR en masse, to ConqueR new Continents of taste.By Boris Coridian Photos Mickael A. Bandassak

EXPLORER

41CHEF To Watch

42

THE DISH IS ENIGMATIC IN APPEARANCE AND, THOUGHITS NAME SOUNDS REASSURINGLY TRADITIONAL – comoum bacalhau à brás (“like a Portuguese-style cod”), theingredients of this typical Lisboan recipe are not immedi-ately discernible. Yes, we detect the aroma of cod – andpotatoes, served julienned in this instance – but recognis-ing the classic ingredients in this striking composition is noeasy task. The chef places the black ceramic on the whitetablecloth, explaining: “Customers are invited to mix theingredients themselves. That’s when the egg yolk appears,and the black olives, the fish flesh and tripe.” Such mixingmust be performed with a sure hand to create the cream-iest, most delicious bacalhau à brás in Portugal from thismysterious amalgamation.

A NEW GENERATIONJoão Rodrigues is Chef at the Feitoria gp restaurant

(one Michelin star) inside the custom-designed AltisBelém Hotel, idyllically set on the banks of the Tagusbetween the russet 25 de Abril Bridge and the Padrãodos Descobrimentos (Monument to the Discoveries,celebrating the 500th anniversary of thedeath of Henry the Navigator and theDiscoveries). At 38, this blue-eyed culi-nary craftsman, alongside a dozen of hispeers, embodies the new Lusitanian cui-sine, a growing gastronomic expressionthat proudly promotes the country’svalues and products. “Things were alreadychanging fifteen years ago, but it’s onlynow that restaurants are reaching sucha level. Not that long ago, there weren’tany local chefs in Portugal – only French,Germans, Australians. But the new gen-eration has honed its techniques and isfinally using local ingredients. In the past,people thought haute gastronomie meant working withfoie gras, truffles and caviar, ingredients we don’t havehere! But all that has changed. The chefs came to realisethat the country is overflowing with riches. Especiallythe ocean, a gold mine for magnificent ingredients likelobster or carabineros (cardinal prawns or scarlet shrimp,a deep-sea species – Ed.) The meat is also delicious, likethe porco preto (black pig), and the wines are sublime.”

EN ROUTE FOR THE STARSThis chef collective, all under forty

and scattered throughout the country,meets several times a year at a gour-met event called “Rota das Estrelas”(Route of the Stars). Last May, it wasJoão Rodrigues’ turn to host hiscompatriots and a few foreigners inhis kitchens for three days. Theseexceptional dinners are a chance torub elbows with the new explorersin Lusitanian cuisine. For this mostrecent session, Óscar Gonçalves hasleft the helm of his G restaurant nearBragança, 500 kilometres north of

Portugal, to present his new adaptation of porco Bísaro(a variety of Iberian pig, typical of the country’s northernregions). The roast fillet is served with exquisitely tenderrice and mashed potatoes flavoured with wild verbena,releasing a citrusy fragrance that permeates the room.The rustic, subtle dish makes you feel like you’re bitinginto the mountains themselves. Another rising star ofthis living cuisine is Leonardo Pereira: at age 30, hereturned to his homeland after serving as productmanager for René Redzepi, Chef at the world-famousNoma in Copenhagen. Pereira now officiates at theAreias do Seixo eco-resort, an hour’s drive from Lisbon.There, in the midst of a lush garden clinging to a clifftowering over the Atlantic, this young chef composescontemporary interpretations of local culinary life,where the raw materials harmonise in a symphony

“The countryis overflowingwith riches;the ocean isa gold mineof ingredients.”

ODYSSEYS AND AROMASAt Feitoria, the Portuguese cultureof travel and commodities tradehas found its way onto the walls.Here, a Japanese Nanban art fresco.

43

TUNA TARTARE,radishes and wasabi cream.

DASHI DE MUXAMABouillon madefrom dried saltedtuna fillet fromthe Algarve region.

COFFEE-CHOCOLATEBALL, caramelice cream, tonka beanand fleur de sel.

CHOCOLATEfrom São Tomé.

44

SALADwith cucumber and coriander.

JUSmade from the

carabinero head.

SAUTÉED CARABINERO(scarlet shrimp)

from the Algarve.

45

Amongthese new-worldtreasures,coffee holdsa prominentplace on João’smenus.

as moving an Amalia Rodrigues fado song. His dishes– unshackled by dogma and convention – are the quin-tessence of creativity, like this grilled squid served witha tart vinaigrette made with globe amaranth, nuoc-mâmand lemon.

A LEGACY OF SPICE AND COFFEEThough these gastronomic adventurers are sailing off

to unexplored taste horizons, they are also leafing throughPortugal’s tomes of history for inspiration. Let’s headback to Lisbon and Feitoria, where the fresco displayedfor guests behind the massive front door isa siren song of wanderlust. “It’s a Nanbanreproduction” (a 16th- and 17th-centuryJapanese art form illustrating the presenceof Portuguese traders and missionaries,referred to as the “Nanban” or “Southernbarbarians”). As Rodrigues – who is, as fatewould have it, the namesake of a famous16th-century Portuguese explorer – explains,“Our cuisine is strongly influenced by allthe Great Discoveries in South America,Brazil, Mozambique, São Tomé, India andMacau; we cook cod today because wefished for it in the northern seas. Portugal,

as a country, also consumes a lot of coriander. And thereason it’s used so much in Asia is because the explor-ers introduced it there! Same thing goes for spices.We don’t use that many, but what we do use, we usein great quantity, like cinnamon.” Among these new-world treasures, coffee holds a prominent place onJoão’s menus, as he is a great lover and connoisseur

of the Nespresso Grands Crus andinvited by the brand to renownedgastronomic events. “I mainly usecoffee in my desserts. But I alsoblend it into savoury dishes thatcan provide balance for its inten-sity. Like mushrooms, where I canuse it like a spice, enhancing theflavor the way pepper would. Wesometimes add a few beans to thesauce for a meat dish, to bring outthe aromatic potency. After a meal,it’s treated as an entirely separatestep. Coffee is an ingredient to usewith the finesse of any culinaryelement. It’s part of what you want

to express at the table; it has a role in the story.” Astory that continues to be written to this day. n

JOÃO RODRIGUES’FAVOURITE PLACESThe shops aT Campo de ourique gq

“The Campo de Ourique district is likea miniature city within the city. It hasplenty of small shops: bakeries, pastryshops (Lomar, Aloma, As de Comer),wine boutiques (Garrafeira Nacional),a charcuterie merchant (A Charcutaria),grocery stores, bookstores, and more.There’s also a host of very good restaurants,including Stop do Bairro, Verde Gaio,Magano, Tasca da Esquina and Cervejariada Esquina. The Campo de Ouriquemarket and the surrounding gardens(Jardim da Parada, Jardim da Estrela)form a very enjoyable quarter that’s bothall-inclusive and traditional. It’s a placewhere people live outside year roundand have solid roots, both in their workand their free time. It’s like one big family.I lived there for four years and I lovedevery minute of it.”

Cervejaria ramiro gs

“This establishment, though already well-known, isn’t resting on its laurels – it’sstill the best seafood restaurant in town.It is always wall-to-wall with customers,but it’s worth the wait. I love goingthere before a football game, to dine withmy family or in the afternoon with friendsto eat seafood and sip a good beer.”

> Find all the addresses referred to aboveon our map at the back of the magazine.

46

GUARDIAN OF THE TEMPLEMiguel Clarinha, manager of thelegendary Pastéis de Belém factory.

THESWEETSECRETSOFBELÉM

47NATIONAL Treasure

The recipe for pasTéis de Belém, The porTuguesecapiTal’s peTiTe and iconic cusTard pasTries,is known only To five people in The world.yeT This mouTh-waTering mysTery is nearly TwocenTuries old. we explore The ciTy To learn moreaBouT porTugal’s legendary, enigmaTic delicacy.By Guillaume Jan Photos Mickaël A. Bandassak

IT FITS IN THE PALM OF YOUR HAND AND DISAPPEARSIN THREE BITES. It is both, a symbol of gourmandise andone of the greatest mysteries of the Portuguese capital.But, for nearly two hundred years, the recipe for pastel deBelém (plural pastéis) has been renowned for how few ac-tually know it. To try to unravel this delicious secret, let usstop, at random, at the first quiosque we pass on our wayto sample one of these custard cups. “What? We don’tsell those here!” the young waitress exclaims with wryamusement, explaining that one can onlyfind them in... Belém. In other words, thepastéis de nata (made with cream) bear-ing the name “Belém” are manufacturedexclusively in the original Pastéis deBelém sh pastry shop in that eccentricquarter in Lisbon a few kilometres down-stream on the Tagus. “But I can serveyou a pastel de nata,” she offers, addingmischievously, “it’s practically the samething...” The precious treat is warm,creamy, deliciously sweet, sprinkled with

cinnamon on request. To get to Belém, you have totake an old yellow-and-white tram that stops oppositethe impressive façade of the Jerónimos Monastery,the birthplace of the pastéis de Belém recipe in theearly 19th century. However, in 1834, after the LiberalRevolution of 1820 that resulted in the closure of all the

country’s monasteries, the majesticbuilding was left empty. It is said thatthe monks then sold the recipe in1837 to the owners of the small ad-jacent sugar refinery, the shop wherethe legend began. A legend that hasendured for one hundred and seventy-eight years.

TANTALISING RUMOURSOn this spring morning, more than

three dozen people are queuing onthe sidewalk to sample this tradi-tional specialty. Inside, the manager,

Miguel Clarinha, reasserts the recipe’s secrecy: “Onlyfive people know it: a retired chef, three chefs who ro-tate kitchen duty and the main manager. Plenty of pastrychefs try to replicate our pastéis, but I have yet to tasteone identical to ours.” In Lisbon, it is rumoured that po-tato peels are the source of this unique flavour, or lemon,or even pork fat. Miguel puts a stop to this culinarychatter: “We don’t use any animal ingredients,

The JerónimosMonastery is saidto have sold itspastéis recipe toa neighbouringshop in 1837.

PASTÉIS

•••

except milk and eggs.” And offers to take us on a tourof the kitchens where an average of 20,000 pastéis aremade each day. In one of the workshops,six women knead the dough anddistribute it in small ramekins lined upon trays. The trays then travel through amachine that automatically injects themwith a few centilitres of the mysteriouscream before they are oven-baked fortwenty minutes at 400°C. But entranceis denied us when it comes to theoficina do segredo – the secret work-shop – where the dough and cream areprepared. Here, Miguel enlightens us:“The secret isn’t only in the ingredients;it’s also in the way the ingredients arecombined.” The tour now over, he hasus taste a pastel fresh from the oven. The pastry is thecolour of gold – crisp, slightly salty, with a hint of vanilla. Isvanilla part of the recipe? The manager deftly sidestepsthe question with a warm handshake.

URBAN CHALLENGEWe must continue this quest; per-

sist in searching elsewhere, in thecity’s myriad pastry shops and tearooms, to find the answer to thisexquisite enigma. At the ConfeitariaNacional gd, the A Brasileira qp, thePastelaria Suiça gf, the pastéis aresometimes very sweet or flavouredwith orange, and the pastry is softeror crispier. Many are delicious. Thereis, in fact, an annual municipal com-petition to crown the best pastelde nata. On the Praça de Luis deCamões, below the Bairro Alto, a

luscious scent of sweetened butter announces thenearby Manteigaria gg pastry shop. This site is de-voted exclusively to making pastéis (4,000-5,000 aday) in the public eye: employees work behind abroad window and customers can watch their labourswhile treating their taste buds. “All our products hereare made by hand and we use very simple ingredients– water, eggs, flour, butter,” explains Aristide RochaVieira, the director. Naturally, we have a few of ourown tricks, such as quantities of caramelising...” Andwhat if the real mystery to be solved was knowing thebest places to enjoy a pastel, whether de Belém orde nata? n

We’re deniedentry intothe oficinado segredo,the secretworkshop wherethe recipe is kept.

SWEET MUSICAt the Manteigaria pastry shop, Lia rings the bell

when a tray of pastéis is pulled from the oven.

GOLDEN GLOBEWhy are pastéis sucha smashing success?The perfect combinationof crispy puff pastryand sweet creamy filling.

> Find all the addresses referred to above on our mapat the back of the magazine.

48

EASY ON THE EYESOther than the activities in the hiddenworkshop, customers can watch pastéisde Belém being made.

TRADE SECRETSThe mystery isn’t only in the ingredients; it’salso in the way the ingredients are combined.

THECOFFEE51HISTORY An Extraordinary Story

The facT ThaT Brazil, a former PorTuguesecolony, evenTually Became The world’s

leading coffee Producer can Be aTTriBuTedTo The charm of a young officer ordered

To seduce The wife of a governor of guyana.a love sTory ThaT did noT haPPen By chance.

By Julien Merali Illustration Icinori

LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT AND A HANDFUL OF COFFEE BEANSSET THE COURSE OF BRAZIL’S DESTINY WHEN IT WAS UNDERPORTUGUESE DOMINATION IN THE YEAR 1713. A tropicalromance was the catalyst that led to the South Americangiant becoming the world’s largest coffee producer twocenturies later. It is a love story steeped in the 18th-centuryromance of lusty novels portraying promiscuous womengarbed in flowing dresses strolling in the shade of exotictrees. A love story between the wife of the governor ofFrench Guyana and an officer of the Portuguese crown whohad a sly strategy up his sleeve.

Coffee, introduced to Europe in the17th century from Africa by way of Arabia,was seeing resounding success. In Paris,Venice and Lisbon, the bourgeoisie wassmitten and purchased it at exorbitantprices, a boon for the countries that pro-duced this delicate commodity. Blessedwith a nearly ideal climate, the Frenchcolony of Guyana was one of the luckysuppliers. Brazil, its neighbour, seeing suchmanna within easy reach, also wanted toprofit from the bean trade. The economicstakes were colossal, meaning no one

wanted to share the treasure. Circumstances were all themore infuriating for the Brazilians, because their lands,home to the Amazon forest, were the ideal agricultural set-ting for coffee. The Portuguese top brass decided to senda young officer, Francisco de Mello Palheta, to Guyana toobtain some seeds of the precious plant from the French,so as to introduce coffee agriculture to Brazil.

FORBIDDEN FRUITGilles Lapouge, in his Dictionnaire amoureux du Brésil

(“Brazil Lover’s Dictionary”), tells howthis officer was recruited, assigned thetask of coaxing the governor’s wife, ifneeded, to fulfil the mission: “An un-official, in-house contest was held tochoose the handsomest soldier in theBrazilian army.” Officially, the youngambassador was dispatched to dis-cuss the Treaty of Utrecht, which, in1713, was to determine the borderbetween Brazil and Guyana. Legendhas it that, during a lunch, the gov-ernor, Monsieur d’Orvilliers, refusedto yield the coveted seeds. At meal’send, Francisco de Mello Palheta of-

fered his arm to Madame d’Orvilliers. The wife, smitten,entrusted the key to the greenhouses that held the coffeeseeds and whispered, “Though the French governmentmight have forbade my husband from doing this, it saidnothing to me.” This act so boosted the officer’s careerthat he became a colonel. To this day, Brazilians still feedthis legend, as Lapouge recounts: “Having been invited[...] to a wonderful restaurant in São Paulo by the name ofCafé Colon, I saw that the coffee was served in cups onwhich was etched the name... d’Orvilliers.” n

A love storybetweenthe wifeof Guyana’sgovernor anda Portugueseofficer.

OFFICIALLYFrancisco de Mello Palhetawas sent to French Guyanato discuss the Treaty of Utrecht.But unofficially...

LOVERS

52

THE SUN IS SETTING ON THE 25 DE ABRIL BRIDGEAND THE SAUDADE’S LANGUOR IS GIVING WAYTO THE PULSING FERVOUR OF THE NIGHT. FROMTHE ROOFTOP TERRACES PACKED WITH PEOPLEAT TWILIGHT TO THE DARK DEPTHS OF THE ELECTROCLUBS, FROM THE FINE DINING DESTINATIONSTO THE LATE-NIGHT BARS, LISBON IS A FEASTOF NIGHTLIFE FROM DUSK TILL DAWN.By Guillaume Jan Photos Mickaël A. Bandassak

INTOTHE

WEEHOURS53PARTY Time

Phot

ocr

edit

6 PM – 8 PM: GET PERSPECTIVEWhat a pleasure to end the day (and start the evening)

sitting atop a viewpoint to gaze out upon the entirecity or contemplate the expansive estuary. From theMiradouro da Graça gj (its official name is MiradouroSophia de Mello Breyner Andresen), perched on the hilloverlooking the Alfama district, the spectacle includesstunning views of the castle, the 25 de Abril Bridge andleaves you awestruck. Tucked away and little-knowneven to the locals, theMiradouro doMonte Agudo gk

offers a romantic alternative. There, enjoy a drinkunder the pines, gently serenaded by birdsong andthe hum of the city below. For a trendier experience,opt for one of the many rooftop terraces, like thoseat the Bairro Alto Hotel 2, the Monte Belvedere gh

guesthouse or the Park gl with its lounge-style décorand cosmopolitan clientele.

MONTE BELVEDERE gh

8 PM – 11 PM: SAVOUR LOCAL PLEASURESHere, culinary culture is an institution. In each of

Lisbon’s quarters, you’ll find inconspicuous eat-eries that will charm you with their ambiance, theowner’s hospitality, or deliciously displayed dishes.In summer, enjoy grilled sardines (that’s the sea-son when they’re the plumpest) brought to you atyour outdoor table, as you can at Pateo 13 hp inthe Alfama, or charcuterie specialties in the low-keyAlfaia qf tavern deep in the Bairro Alto. Throughoutthe city, new restaurants serve creative cuisine insurprising settings. The Duplex hq, in the Cais doSodre district, has a delightfully innovative menu.The Insólito hs serves baroque recipes in a diningroom-terrace overlooking Rossio Square. The tinyDona Quitéria hd reinvents traditional cuisine in ahunting lodge décor. Some dining establishmentsare more praiseworthy than others, such as thePrimeiro Andar hf, which doesn’t advertise: itsguests come by word-of-mouth to experience thischarming restaurant in a former apartment withvertiginous ceilings and bountiful cuisine. It is worthlingering after the meal to enjoy a concert or DJ sets.

PARK gl

A trendy terrace barperched on the roofof a car park.

DUPLEX ha

5454

11 PM – 2 AM:WARM THINGS UPAnother Lisbon institutions are the bars: wood panelling on the walls,

muted lighting and decorative objects turn these watering holes intoastounding curio cabinets. Must-sees for the bar crowd are the BarProcópio ea, the Foxtrot hg and the Pavilhão Chinês hh (ChinesePavilion). And newer bars in the Bairro Alto and Cais do Sodre (likeVestigius hj) are fresh ways to capture all the spirit of Portuguese nights.

FOXTROT hg

With Art Deco décor andjazz, the Foxtrot bringsback the Roaring Twenties.

55THE INSÓLITO hs

PENSÃO AMOR hk

This bar-club set ina former brothel setsa steamy, sensuous tone.

Find all the addresses referred to in this City Guide on our map at the back of the magazine.

56

4 AM - 6 AM: PARTY UNTIL THE SUN COMES UPLisbon has no shortage of nightclubs. But

the Lux-Frágil jq is currently the hands-downfavourite. This club – spanning three levels, in-cluding a rooftop facing the Tagus River and abottom floor crisscrossed with neon – is whereyou will bump into all the partiers you met overthe course of the evening. Three different am-biances to explore, the ultimate way to wrapup the night in style and dance until dawn. n

2 AM - 4 AM: SLUMMINGON THE TAGUS WATERFRONT

It’s two in the morning and the night is livingup to its potential. At Pensão Amor hk, a bar-club installed on the first floor of a former brothel,the décor is still sensuous today, with room afterroom furnished with velvet armchairs and sofas.Sometimes a pole-dancing show or fortune telleris scheduled as entertainment. But it’s on theperiod parquet floor that the party raises the roofto thundering sounds from the DJ. In the sameCais do Sodre district, there’s further variety onthe nightlife buffet. The Musicbox hl has a moreeclectic and alternative music line-up, and theClube Ferroviário jp, recreating a social-clubatmosphere above the ancient Santa ApolóniaStation, is a trip back in time. To catch your breathbetween sets, sit on the terrace in the vintageseats salvaged from old train cars. Then get backon the dance floor with its walls covered in crim-son earthenware tiling.

LUX-FRÁGIL ja

CLUBE FERROVIÁRIO jp

57

59CULT Object

Like miniature treasure chests, these traditionaLtins hoLd the oceanic gems of PortugaL: sardines,tuna, cod, octoPus. When branded conserveira deLisboa, they are deLicious embLems of the caPitaL.

By Boris Coridian Photo Florent Tanet

THEY ARE PRECISELY STACKED, GROUPED BY RECIPE,FILLING THE WOODEN SHELVES SMOOTHED BY THE PATINAOF TIME: HUNDREDS OF THESE WRAPPED TINS CREATE ACOLOURFUL MOSAIC IN THE LITTLE SHOP. Though timeseems suspended in the Conserveira de Lisboa js shop,it nevertheless remains the essential epicurean stop forpassers-by seeking a tasty, yet inexpensive, Lisbon souve-nir. The savoury selection is dazzling: sardine with a varietyof herbs and spices, myriad flavours of tuna, garlicky cod,smoked mussels, squid, octopus...seventy different prepa-rations for sale from a full catalogue that counts more thana hundred and thirty. Every aluminium can is recyclable andhand-wrapped in elegant vintage paperbearing one of three designs associatedwith the brands of this family enterprise.Tricana – containers wrapped with theiconic face of Portuguese workers of yes-teryear – is for larger fish and tuna fillets.Minor – reminiscent of Felix the Cat – isfor smaller fish. And Prata do Mar holdsmore modest contents, such as tunaflakes. The company’s young owner andmanager, Tiago Ferreira, looks back onthe beginnings of this canning legend:“My grandfather, Fernando Ferreira daSilva, founded the company in 1930 andregistered the three trademarks in 1942.Business was booming during World War II – cannedgoods were cheap, easy to store and food was in shortsupply. Up until the 1980s and the advent of freezing, themarket expanded non-stop. Back in the Sixties, there weretwo hundred fish-canning factories in Portugal. Now thereare only twenty,” shares the 37-year-old CEO, who is alsoan electronics engineer and professor at the UniversidadeNova de Lisboa (New University of Lisbon).

This cannery has survived the decades by virtue of thebusiness acumen of the founder: “Everyone thinks wewrap the tins in paper to look pretty, but there’s a muchmore practical reason behind it! It means we can sendback the cans that don’t meet our quality standards tothe supplier, those that we won’t put our name on.” Thispackaging is one of the elements that helped Conserveira

de Lisboa regain its leading role onthe market: “Our vintage design hashad a lot of impact. But we also con-ducted a major publicity campaignto boost public opinion on domesticproducts. And, a decade ago, ourcompany started working with FaustoAiroldi, a very popular chef here, whoused our products in his gourmetdishes. The public doesn’t look atcanned foods quite the same wayanymore.” But to truly grasp the rea-sons for the Conserveira’s success,the best course of action is to pull onthe ring of a tin, peel back the top,

and savour the high-quality seafood inside. “The fish arecleaned, steamed, then hand-cut and prepared. Justbefore sealing the can, we add the oil and seasoning.The last step is the sterilisation, which completes thecooking. Our fish are all from Portuguese fishing areas(except the salmon and trout). The sardines are caughtsouth of the Algarve, the tuna – mainly yellowfin andbigeye – is sustainably fished around the Azores. Themackerel and horse mackerel come from a variety ofplaces off the Portugal coast, and same goes for the mus-sels, octopus, squid, eel.” And they are lasting pleasures,too, as these little Portuguese treasures can be storedfor several years. n

Everyaluminium canis recyclableand hand-wrappedin elegantvintage paper.

DELIGHTSUNCANNY

> Find all the addresses referred to above on our mapat the back of the magazine.

NEWWAVE

60

Some thirty kilometreS north of liSbon layS a Surfing mecca thatStartS at ericeira, paSSeS through peniche, and endS in the villageof nazaré. along thiS Stretch, every winter, a liquid monStertowering 30 metreS high comeS out of hibernation and tranSformSthe Small SeaSide reSort into a gnarly neSt of extreme SurferS.meet the ocean loverS who are catalySing the rebirth of a region.By Guillaume Jan Photos Jean-Christophe Husson

SURFINGCULTURE

61SPORTS Adventure

62

IT’S A WALL OF WATER, A LIQUID MOUNTAIN THAT CANRISE MORE THAN 30 METRES – 100 FEET – IN THE AIR. THISWAVE, THE HIGHEST IN THE WORLD TO HAVE BEEN TAMED,CHANGED THE FACE OF PORTUGAL, MORE SPECIFICALLYITS ATLANTIC COAST. Off the shoreline that is hometo Nazaré, a quiet fishing village just a 90-minute drivenorth from Lisbon, the ocean becomes a wild beast inwinter when, for a few days each year, records are setand broken at every turn. “Our wave isthe eighth wonder of the world; it’s asspectacular as Everest,” enthuses thedynamic Dino Casimiro, the municipalsports activities director for Nazaré.“And it’s the only giant wave that youcan see up close while you’re stillashore.” On this day in May, the windis indeed blowing briskly, but the swellof the Atlantic remains reasonable. Afew elderly visitors stroll along the sea-front; tourists stop before the souvenirshops or sunned themselves on res-taurant terraces. At this moment, itis hard to imagine the violence of theelements in this sleepy seaside décor. “That’s becauseyou haven’t actually seen anything yet,” Dino fires backas he takes us out to the Nazaré lighthouse on top ofthe cliff overlooking the bay. The other side of the head-land presents the fearsome Praia do Norte – North

Beach – where the sea is much morechaotic. “When I was a kid, I’d comeand surf here without telling myparents,” reports this city councilmanapproaching his forties. “They forbademe to go – my father was a fisher-man and he knew the dangers of itall too well.” Dino remembers repeat-edly swiping the tops of fish crates tomake his first boogie boards. At thetime, the region’s surfers could becounted on the fingers of both handsand the “big wave” hadn’t yet piquedthe interest of anyone abroad.

EXTREME SURFERSEverything changed in 2011 with the arrival of

Hawaiian-by-choice Garrett McNamara, a specialist inextreme surfing and the highest waves. “The fishingsector was in crisis, young people were leaving thevillage to go to Lisbon, the population was aging. So,in the early 2000s, I wanted to make the most of ourrecord swells to make Nazaré more appealing, evenin winter, and to give the region a revitalising boost,”explains Dino. He hosted local, then national,

“It’s the onlygiant wavethat you cansee up closewhile you’restill ashore.”

- Dino Casimiro

A GIANT WAVESPAWNED BY A MASSIVEUNDERWATER CANYONThe spectacular size of the wavesat Nazaré is the result of the topographyhidden beneath the surface. The city isbuilt at the end of an underwater canyon5,000 metres deep and 210 kilometreslong. This abyss – known as the NazaréCanyon – channels the swell towardthe coast and changes the waves’momentum and direction, causing themto collide, leveraging their power in heavyweather. The last record for the biggestwave ever tamed was set in December2014 by French surfer Benjamin Sanchis.The height of that particular wallof water was estimated to be 33 metres.

Zum

a/

Pano

ram

ic

•••

FATUM SURFBOARD FACTORYmakes a good fifteen boardsevery week. It opened in Penichein 2005.

ON BALEAL BEACH AT PENICHE,bars and seaside restaurantshave opened with surfersas their primary clientele.

JOHANNES PREPS HIS BOARD.This German surfing fan cameto enjoy the waves for three months whilecontinuing to work by telecommuting.

THE LOVE OF THE WAVES.Marceland Mirko just arrived from Germany.“A direct Frankfurt-Lisbon flight makesthis the quickest surfing spot to get to.”

CARLA TOMÉ, flanked by two occupants of her surf house.The former champion hosts several dozen surf enthusiastsfrom around the world each year.

NAZARÉ: 10,000 residents in winterand 100,000 in summer – the older fishinggeneration alongside the new wave of surfers.

FROM NOVEMBERTO FEBRUARY the sea letsloose on Nazaré’s beach.

65

competitions, made use of social networks, which havebeen on the rise in Portugal, to share the spectacle of thedramatic waves and weather. “Then I realised that I wasmissing a surfing star to help promote our site,” he con-tinues. After conducting some research, the councilmancame across Garrett McNamara’s website. They gotin touch and, in November 2011, McNamara broke aninitial world record by riding a 24-metrewave. “And then, overnight, the wholeworld knew about Nazaré!” Dino rejoices.“Other extreme surfers came along andwe were no longer an unknown village.”Since then, every winter, a few teamscome to confront the monstrous waveson stormy days and major world eventsare held on these beaches.Still, surfmania didn’t disrupt the lives

of the inhabitants of this ample village.“Big-wave surfing is reserved for an elite,”says Camilo, a souvenir-shop employee.“It’s an expensive sport that takes being towed outby a jet ski and having a support team.” Dino takesthis notion further: “The giant wave is too dangerousfor you and me – it’s only for the cream of the surfingcrop. But the spectacle of it draws all kinds of people,and our job is now to get them to stay in Nazaré.” At

the other end of the bay, João Vidinha finishes polishinga board he just made. At age 33, he sees himself asa “second-generation” surfer. He, too, is a fisherman’sson and has devoted his life to the sport by being

“shaper” and giving classes on moresheltered beaches than Praia doNorte. He feels that there are aboutforty “real surfers” in his city. “Therearen’t too many of us,” he acknowl-edges. “Nazaré is what made surfinga viable sport in Portugal, but thisisn’t the spot surfers like best.” Thenwhere do they go? João points toa cape 30 kilometres to the south.“There, in Peniche, and further down,in Ericeira. You should go there –you’ll see the difference.”

SURFING AS SECOND WIND“Welcome to Peniche, surfers city,” hails a sign as you

enter the town. Surf-related signs now cover the win-dows of the old sardine canneries. The peninsula is linedwith beaches facing north, west and south: “Peniche isthe best place to surf in Portugal,” claims PortugueseCarla Tomé, former champion of the sport who openeda surf camp in 2009. “We have every wind direction,every wave, every day of the year.” The local economyhas revived since European surfers began landing

“We have everywind direction,every wave,every dayof the year.”

- Carla Tomé

A FISHERMAN’S’VILLAGE transformedinto a surfing paradise. In Baleal,near Peniche, the economy is now mainlydriven by tourism.

•••

66

here in the 1990s: in summer, the population now swellsto five times its winter numbers, up to 170,000 people;restaurants and cafés have sprung up and dozens ofsurf camps have opened, giving pros and amateursaffordable places to stay on the coast. “I think surfinghas saved the city’s economy,” Carla adds. “The fishingsector is struggling, there are no more fish, and Penichedoesn’t draw mass tourism because the water’s cold, theweather is chilly, and it’s very windy!”

On Baleal Beach, a stone’s throw fromher guest house, the swells are pepperedby a swarm of wetsuited surfers. Crowdsof young people cover the beach. At theperpetually busy wooden refreshmentstand, Marcel, a 34-year old German,explains that he arrived from Frankfurtthe day before. “There’s no place to surfin Germany! This is the quickest surfingspot for us to get to.”

WORLD SURFING RESERVEIn Ericeira, 50 kilometres south of

Peniche, Franco-Brazilian championÉric Rebière gives us a seaside tour.He lived here from 1997 to 2012 before stalking otherbig waves in northern Portugal. “I love the adrenaline

POST-SURFING DRINKS AND DININGIN NAZARÉA Celeste restaurantFamily atmosphere and home-style cooking at this petiteeatery with a grand view of the ocean and the bay.Avenida República, 54. Phone: +351 262 551 695A TasquinhaSmiling hospitality, generous servings of delicious,typical cuisine, impeccable service. The restaurantis always packed, reservations recommended.Rua Adriao Batalha, 54. Phone: +351 262 551 945

IN PENICHEMirandum MarisqueiraGenerous seafood platters, a great selection of grilledfish. This unassuming restaurant set away fromthe port is an excellent, low-key dining choice.Rua Heroes Ultramar, 23. Phone: +351 262 782 958Tasca do JoelSimple but tasty cuisine in a typical local ambiance.This friendly tavern has become a Peniche institution.Rua do Lapadusso, 73. Phone: +351 262 782 945

IN ERICEIRATasca Da Boa ViagemA wide selection of fresh fish and fine winesin an establishment renowned for its atmosphere.A few tables overlook the ocean.Rua Cap. João Lopes, 4. Phone: +351 927 094 552Tubo Ericeira BarThe Ericeira hangout for surfers and the youngnight-prowling crowd. Great ambiance,good music, awesome cocktails.Travessa da Esperanca, 3. Phone: +351 261 863 168

the big waves give you,” he shares.“I come to Nazaré every year. Lastwinter, I rode down a 20-metre wave!But I also like the waves in Ericeira –they’re reef breaks, which are morefun to surf.” On the southern beach,a few brave souls head off to bat-tle the rough, choppy sea with theirboards. “This is where surfing startedin Portugal,” he explains. “The firstworld championships were held herein 1985, and the surf camps followed.Nowadays, the fact that Ericeira is soclose to Lisbon makes it a popular

shore resort and our sport had a lot to do with that.” In2011, the city and its coast were designated a “WorldSurfing Reserve”, a title awarded by the internationalSave The Waves coalition, making it the first Europeancity to earn the label. “This entire coast is a paradise forriders,” the champion asserts. “The people are friendly,it’s affordable, and the waves are exceptional. I thinksurfing is becoming Portugal’s second-most popularsport after football.” n

“Surfingis becomingPortugal’ssecond-mostpopular sportafter football.”

- Éric Rebiere

Porto

Lisbon

CHAMPION OF THE BOARDEvery winter, Franco-BrazilianEric Rebière brings his lead-ballastedboard to Nazaré for a face-offwith the big wave.

67

68

CARAMELISED DOURO ALMONDS& INDRIYA FROM INDIA

SERVES 6PREPARATION TIME: 5 minutesCOOKING TIME: 5 minutesINGREDIENTS: 6 capsulesof Indriya from India (6 x 25 ml).250 g whole almonds - 200 gsugar - 75 g water.

Boil the sugar and water about 5 minutesuntil an amber-coloured caramel forms.

n Wait 2-3 minutes, drop the almondsinto caramel; stir to coat well. nRemovethe almonds with a fork and place themon parchment paper. n Serve with aRistretto Indriya from India (25 ml).

A PERFECT MATCH: The spicy notesof the Grand Cru Indriya from Indiapair marvellously with the mild,sweet notes of the caramelised almonds.

SERENADETOOTH

SWEET

The people of lisbon are ofTen said To be coffeeconnoisseurs and fine food fanaTics. indeed, how couldanyone resisT Their classic pasTries, especially whenThe creamy, fruiTy or spicy noTes of These sweeT TreaTsgo so well wiTh nespresso grands crus?By Marie Leteuré Photos Jérôme Bilic Styling Juliette de Cadoudal

Pure CollectionEspresso cup (Nespresso),spoon (Cutipol),tiles (Emery & Cie).

69GOURMET Coffee

PASTÉIS DE NATA & ROMA

SERVES 6PREPARATION TIME: 25 minutesCOOKING TIME: 20 minutesINGREDIENTS: 6 capsulesof Roma (6 x 40 ml).2 sheets puff pastry- 50 cl milk - 20 g flour- 2 whole eggs - 4 egg yolks- 250 g sugar - peel of 1 lemon- 1 cinnamon stick.

Layer the puff pastry then cut out 12 discsusing the rim of a glass. n Arrange thedough discs in muffin tins, prick witha fork and set aside in the refrigerator.n Preheat oven to 240°C (gas mark 9).n Mix the flour into the milk, bring themixture to a boil while whisking, andimmediately remove from heat. n Beatthe whole eggs and yolks with a whisk.n Boil the sugar with 120 g (12 cl) ofwater, the lemon peel and cinnamon forabout 5 minutes until big bubbles form.

nRemove the lemon peel and cinnamon,add the milk-flour mixture, then thebeaten eggs. n Fill the tin moulds ¾ fulland bake for 20 minutes. n Serve with aRoma Espresso (40 ml).

A PERFECT MATCH: Here, a deliciousbalance between the custard’s sweetnessand the Roma’s intensity brings outthe sweet, caramelised, even spicy(cinnamon) notes of the pastel, andthe buttery flavours of the puff pastry.

Glass Espresso cups (Nespresso),tiles (Emery & Cie).

70

BOLO DE ARROZ & BUKEELA KA ETHIOPIA

SERVES 6PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutesCOOKING TIME: 30 minutesINGREDIENTS: 6 capsulesof Bukeela ka Ethiopia (6 x 110 ml).200 g sugar - 150 g softened butter- 4 eggs - grated peels of 1 lemon and1 lime - 8 cl milk - 8 cl cream - 150 gwheat flour - 150 g rice flour - 1 packetbaking powder - granulated sugar.

Preheat oven to 180° C (gas mark 4).n Beat the butter with the sugar untilthe mixture whitens. n Separate the eggyolks from the whites, add the yolks,lemon peel, milk and cream. n Mix well,then stir in the flour and baking powder.Beat the egg whites and mix gentlyinto the batter. n Divide the dough,filling small silicone moulds lined withparchment paper ¾ full. n Sprinkle with

granulated sugar and bake 30 minutes.n Let cool before removing from pan.n Serve with a Lungo Bukeela ka Ethiopia(110 ml).

A PERFECT MATCH: hese biscuits arebest enjoyed with a Lungo Grand Cru.The tangy, floral notes of the Bukeelaka Ethiopia and the pastry’s lemonflavour form a very delicate accord.

Pure Collection Cappuccino cup (Nespresso),marble platter (Fleux).

BLACKBERRYJAM TARTLETS& ROSABAYADE COLOMBIA

SERVES 6PREPARATION TIME: 15 minutesCOOKING TIME: 30 minutesINGREDIENTS: 6 capsulesof Rosabaya de Colombia (6 x 40 ml)- 6 x 40 ml warm milk.250 g blackberries - 100 g sugar - juiceof 1 lemon - 8 cl water - 1 knob butter.For the dough: 220 g flour -125 g butter- 40 g ground almonds - 80 g icingsugar - salt - 1 egg.

Boil blackberries with sugar, lemon juiceand water for 15-20 minutes until mixtureis of proper consistency. n Pass the jamthrough a sieve if you want a seedlessmixture. n Add the knob of butter and letcool. n Place the flour, butter, groundalmonds, icing sugar and 1 pinch of saltin a mixing bowl, mix until grainy, thenadd the egg and mix in spurts until thedough forms a ball. n Preheat oven to180° C (gas mark 4). n Line the bakingtray with parchment paper. n Roll outthe dough on a floured surface. n Cutout dough rounds with a fluted cookiecutter. n On half of them, make a cut-outin the centre with a smaller, non-flutedcookie cutter. n Bake biscuits about10 minutes and then let cool. Top thesolid rounds with jam and place thosewith the centre holes on top. n Serve witha Meia Leite made with Rosabaya deColombia. Prepare a 40 ml Grand Cruand add 40 ml of warm milk.

A PERFECT MATCH: These blackberry jamtartlets pair exquisitely with the fresh andfruity notes of Grand Cru Rosabaya deColombia, with milk added for greaterroundness following the Meia Leite recipe.

Glass Espresso cups(Nespresso), tiles(Emery & Cie).

PÃO DE LÓ & CARAMELITO

SERVES 6PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutesCOOKING TIME: 30 minutesINGREDIENTS: 6 capsulesof Caramelito (6 x 40 ml)- 6 x 60 ml frothed milk.7 eggs - 200 g sugar - 150 g flour- salt - butter for the mould.

Preheat oven to 180° C (gas mark 4).n Separate the egg yolks from thewhites. n Whisk the yolks with a pinch ofsalt and sugar. n Beat the egg whites,gently fold in the yolk mixture and theflour, gradually sprinkled in, using aspatula. n Butter and flour a mould.n Pour the mixture into the pan andbake for about 30 minutes. n Check

for doneness with a knife blade. If theblade comes out clean, the dish is done.n Serve with a Caramelito Cappuccino.

A PERFECT MATCH: A delicious duo.The sweet, subtle notes of the Grand CruCaramelito prepared Cappuccino styleblend harmoniously with the creamytexture and rich flavor of the sponge cake.

Glass Lungo cups (Nespresso), plates(Conran Shop), spoons (Cutipol),tiles (Emery & Cie).

BOLO DE NOZES & LINIZIO LUNGO

SERVES 6PREPARATION TIME: 20 minutesCOOKING TIME: 30 minutesINGREDIENTS: 6 capsulesof Linizio Lungo (6 x 110 ml)- 6 x 200 g ice cubes - 6 x 2 tbsp. rum- 6 x 1 tbsp. brown cane sugar syrup.8 eggs - 200 g sugar - 50 g honey- 100 g ground almonds - 200 gground walnuts - 2 tbsp. flour- the peel of 1 lemon - 2 tsp.cinnamon - 50 g walnut meats- icing sugar.

Preheat oven to 180° C (gas mark 4).n Separate the egg yolks from whites,whisk yolks and sugar until the mixturelightens and gains volume. n Add honey,ground almonds, ground walnuts, cin-namon, lemon peel and flour. n Beatthe egg whites until stiff, add 1 largespoonful of whites to the mixture, thengently fold in the rest of the whiteswith a spatula. n Pour the batter into asquare pan lined with parchment paper,decorate with walnuts, sprinkle with icing

sugar and bake 30 minutes. n Serve witha Mazagran made with Linizio Lungo(110 ml). In a recipe glass, mix 200 g icecubes, 2 tbsp. rum (15 g), 1 tbsp. brownsugar syrup (20 g). Pour over the Lungo.

A PERFECT MATCH: This refreshingdrink pairs the malted cereal notesof the Lungo with rum and the sweet,caramelised notes of cane sugar,enhancing the nut and cinnamonaromas in the cake.T

hem

isus

eof

alco

holi

sda

nger

ous

for

your

heal

th.P

leas

edr

ink

resp

onsi

bly.

73

Glass recipe glass and spoons(Nespresso), crockery (Fleux),

tiles (Emery & Cie).

74

Every cup sizehas its own porcelainthickness to ensure idealtemperature control.

These young , l ead ing - edgedesigners are admirers of Frenchdes igne r Char lo t te Pe r r i and ,Swiss arch i tec t Le Corbus ier,the Castiglionis (Italy’s fraternaldesigner duo) and appreciate theimpact and simplicity expressedby the ligne claire that Hergé heldin such high regard. They never-theless believe there is a trendtoward Swiss design: “We believethe streamlined Swiss style, a stylebased on understatement, is es-sential, just like the modernism ofMax Bill, the typographer and the-oretician who created 20th-centuryHelvetian design,” says Martinville.For Alexis Georgacopoulos, Directorof the ECAL (École cantonale d’artde Lausanne, the prestigious schoolof art and design), who co-designedthe stem of the Riedel glass forNespresso, this fast-developingtrend is unquestionably giving thewords “Swiss made” greater pres-tige and commercial weight. Hedescribes the movement in thisway: “‘Swiss made’, a label

STREAMLINED SHAPES, QUALITYFINISHES, BALANCED PROPORTIONS,UNDERSTATED PRECISION: THE PURECOLLECTION STANDS AS WHAT COULDBE THE PERFECT EMBODIMENT OFSWISS DESIGN, a style soaring inprestige and popularity. Discretionand simplicity are in every detail:the subtly traced Nespresso mon-ogram, as elegant as a hallmark,or the clever shaping of the sau-cer, with a raised centre that holdsthe cup snugly in place, slippingthe pieces together like a buildingset.Design,by its nature, transformsan object and its use, but the dis-

cipline has also beenpart of the NespressoDNA since the brand’sfound ing . Th is new,everyday, contempo-rary Collection is thework of the BIG-GAMEStud io, es tab l i shedin 2004 in Lausanneby Augustin Scott deMar t inv i l le (France) ,Elric Petit (Belgium) andGrégoire Jeanmonod(Switzerland).

75NESPRESSO Design

PURECOLLECTIONWHAT IF WE COULD PLUMB THE MYSTERY DEPTHS OF SWISS DESIGN?THE STYLE CAN BE FOUND IN A FEW CHOICE ARTICLES FROM THE NESPRESSOCOLLECTIONS,EACH BLENDING BEAUTY WITH FUNCTION.STARTING WITH THEBRAND-NEW PORCELAIN ACCESSORIES DESIGNED BY THE BIG-GAME STUDIO.By Nadia Hamam Photos Cecil Mathieu

QUINTESSENTIALSWISSDESIGN

•••

“SWISS MADE”,A LABEL LONGBUOYED BYTHE COUNTRY’SFINEWATCHMAKINGSAVOIR-FAIRE,IS A GUARANTEEOF SUPERB,LONG-LASTINGCRAFTSMANSHIP.

76

long buoyed bythe country’s finew a t c h m a k i n gsavoir-faire, is aguarantee of su-perb, long-lastingc ra f tsmansh i p.And, while Swissdesign’s progress was driven byits graphic and typographic sidewith the creation of the famousHelvetica font in the late 1950s, itis now increasingly seen in othersectors, like objects, furniture andappliances. They’re designed by lo-cals, but also by Swiss designersliving abroad.” It has thus becomea visual culture that now reachesfar beyond i ts nat ive borders,the director explains, as the ECAL

student population is today madeup of 35 nationalities.A creative andeducational melting pot – one thatworked on the design of the ViewBonbonnière (see column on right-hand page).

Functional…and a bit FeistySteeped in this stylistic approach,

the BIG-GAME Studio designed thePure Collection in such a way thatit immediately brings Nespresso tomind: the cup’s square base ech-oes the brand logo; the circular top

Augustin Scott deMartinville,Elric Petitand Grégoire Jeanmonodfounded the BIG-GAMEdesign studio.Thesejacks-of-all-trades workin furniture, interior design,scenography and more,partnering with highlyspecialised producersand lifestyle productmanufacturers.Their Bold chair is nowpart of the MoMA’spermanent collectionin New York.

“THE TEXTUREANDWHITESHADING ENHANCETHE TACTILEPLEASUREOF HOLDINGTHE PORCELAIN.”

– ELRIC PETIT (DESIGNER)

Ingenious ideathe raised centreon the saucerholds the cupsnugly in place.

BIG

-GA

ME;

DR

77

Some accessories may not be available in your country.

is reminiscent of a capsule, anotherbrand icon. “We worked hand-in-hand with the company’s expertsto be sure we designed the bestcup possible,” says Augustin Scottde Martinville. The convex bottomsof the Espresso and Lungo Cupsand the Mug distribute the liquid inbeautiful balance, forming a cremathat is perfect in both texture andquantity. On the Cappuccino model,the concave bottom is the cata-lyst to a sensual blending of coffeeand milk. Elric Petit hails the “verySwiss precision of Nespresso’ssupervision of everything from de-sign to packaging, usage conceptsto manufacturing.” The Belgiandesigner also enjoyed “the exten-sive back-and-forth with the man-ufacturers to achieve the unglazed

bisque surface texture we wantedon the saucer rim. The texture andwhite shading enhance the tactilepleasure of holding the porcelain.”And, because “handsome styling isnot enough – these objects mustalso improve the day-to-day qualityof life”, the Pure Collection has aone-size, stackable saucer design.This shrewd shaping means theCappuccino saucer can hold boththe Lungo Cup and the Mug, andeven the upcoming Recipe glass!In the spring of 2016, this additionalvessel,made for delicious coffee cre-ations, will join the Pure Collectionfamily, along with assorted spoons.In short, a complete neoclassicalCollection that is functional…andjust a bit feisty! n

The Pure Collectioncurrently has four models:

Espresso (80 ml),Cappuccino (180 ml),

Lungo (180 ml)and Mug (300 ml).

A Recipe Glass andspoons are soon to follow.

Glass Collection (2004 and 2012):Clear tempered glass,uncluttered design, provenresilience – a collectionfrom Antoine Cahen, who hasworked with Nespressofor over two decades.

SWISS DESIGNAT NESPRESSO

REVEAL Glass (2014):This glass, available in two sizes,lets coffee connoisseurs experiencethe aromas of the Grands Cruswith the exactitude of wineexperts. The solid stem wasdesigned in collaborationwith the ECAL and reinventsthe Nespresso tasting ritual.

View Bonbonnière (2012):Inspired by the capsule’sunmistakable shape, thestreamlined design expressesthe Swiss minimalism andavant-garde spirit of the designstudents at the ECAL (Écolecantonale d’art de Lausanne),who took part in the project.

78

PIXIE CLIPScoffee chameleonAT LAST,A NESPRESSO MACHINE THAT SATISFIES THE INTERIORDESIGNER IN YOU! AN INSPIRED SYSTEM OF INTERCHANGEABLE,DECORATIVE SIDE PANELS MEANS THE NEW PIXIE CLIPS CANCHANGE COLOUR IN A FLASH.FUN AND FASHIONABLE TEXTURES,FINISHES,PRINTS AND PATTERNS EXPRESS YOUR CREATIVITY,QUICK AS A CLIP!By Nadia Hamam Photographs Guillaume Czerw

Food Styling Sophie Dupuis-Gaulier Production Juliette de Cadoudal

79

Decorative duoEach PIXIE CLIPS

Machine comeswith two sets of

removable panels.Your choice of two

pairs: black andyellow or white

and coral.

Glass Espresso andLungo Cups (Nespresso),Glass Saucer (Nespresso),

flowerpot and marble clock(Fleux), brushed stainless

steel knife (Merci).

NESPRESSO Lifestyle

You’ll find the complete PIXIE CLIPS range in Machines & Collections on page 96.

80

BE YOUR EVER-CHANGING SELFIn both fashion and interior décor, it’s impor-

tant to add that unique touch that is yours alone.The new PIXIE CLIPS Machine, with twelve dec-orative panel sets designed for quick-and-easypersonalisation,was designed to do just that! Doesyour countertop need a cheery lift? Choose thebright, sunny yellow. Or perhaps a Warhol-styleprint is the best signature look for your kitchen.Seeking sophistication? Try the matt red or black-and-white checked panels, easily alternated at amoment’s notice. Or give your world unexpectedtexture with textile panels in denim and Cordura.Warm up the ambiance with touch of wood; makean artistic statement with high-tech, urban prints.You can experiment with décor of every kind tomatch your mood or keep pace with the times.And, as always, the new PIXIE CLIPS means thebest in Nespresso design and technology.n

PIXIE CupsThey comein a rainbow ofcolours identicalto the dedicatedGrand Cru shades.Above, the versioninspired by the newCosi; opposite,the PIXIE Cupthat matches theDecaffeinato red.

Child’s playThe modular,intuitive PIXIECLIPS systemmakes changingpanels a snap.A specialmini-key,ingeniousnotches. Justchoose, clip…hey presto!

81

Red and blackTiny dots create a relief effect

on the red surface with the perfecthint of gloss, for a glamorous touch

that brightens any interior.

Spoons (Merci),glass carafe (La Trésorerie).

True textileThese imaginativepanels of genuine

denim are a pleasureto both, the eyeand the touch.

Glass Espresso Cup(Nespresso), Glass saucer

(Nespresso), washed linennapkin (Fleux).

83

Chequered chicThe black-and-white check,so in vogue in the Thirties,

makes a comeback fiftyyears later to add peppy

personality to streamlined,uncluttered décor..

TPIXIE Decaffeinatto Cup (Nespresso),porcelain tray (Merci).

84

In Guatemala,Eugenio Pérezgrows six varietiesof high-qualitycoffee on hisplot of landin Los Amates.The fruit treesplanted as partof the agroforestryproject providehis coffee treeswith shadewhile generatingsupplementalincome forthe farmer.

populations. Today, however, DonLucio has rediscovered the confi-dence he developed decades earli-er: “With the 6,000 trees I plantedon my four-hectare farm, even ifthe skies are threatening, the treesonce again watch over us and ourfamilies’ future.”

Trees: The rooTof all ThingsThe agroforestry initiative of

Nespresso honours the centralrole held by this king of the forestin regenerating ecosystems. Theunder tak ing was designed tostrengthen the AAA SustainableQua l i t y™ Program (see inse tpage 87), established in conjunc-t ion with the NGO RainforestAlliance,a long-standing Nespressopartner in sustainable develop-ment. “Through our fifteen

85NESPRESSO The Positive Cup

THIS IS A STORY OF MEN, TREESAND TIME. DON LUCIO LIVES IN THEMOUNTAINS OF GUATEMALA AT ANALTITUDE OF 2,000 METRES (MORETHAN 6,500 FEET). Crops are thecornerstone of existence for thisman and his family, and he knowsthat their growth is tied to the truththat lies in the soil, echoing theomnipotence of the skies. Here,nothing is as it used to be. Thechanging climate is disruptingecosystems and causing panicamong the people. This 71-year-old coffee farmer knows the grimreality: “The people who live hereslashed the forest indiscr imi -nately for too long.” To the pointof threatening the foundationsof a biodiversity once ideal forgrowing high-quality coffee. Andnow jeopardising a local econo-my that is vital to these mountain

HARNESSINGTHE POWEROF TREES

NESPRESSO CONTINUES TO INVEST IN SUSTAINABLEDEVELOPMENT BY HELPING COFFEE GROWERSCOMBAT THE IMPACTS OF CLIMATE CHANGE.BY THE END OF 2015, THROUGH THE AGROFORESTRYFOCUS OF THE AAA SUSTAINABLE QUALITY™ PROGRAM,630,000 TREES WILL HAVE BEEN PLANTED IN THREECOUNTRIES: GUATEMALA, COLOMBIA AND ETHIOPIA.By Nadia Hamam Photos Christian Lamontagne/Cosmos

AGROFORESTRY

•••

86

years of coopera-tion, we’ve shapedthe programme’sstandards in sucha way that we helpfarmers improvetheir living condi-

t ions while also protecting theenvironment.Today,60% of produc-er countries are facing crit icalchallenges due to climate change:inc reas ing presence o f p lan tdiseases, torrential rains. So theAAA Program and its par tners,along with our organisation, musturgently help coffee farmers adapt,”reports Tensie Whelan, Presidentof the Rainforest All iance. And

there is a key solution: agroforestry.Nespresso has asked Pur Projetto lead the first pilot projects. Thissocio-environmental programmedeveloper was created by TristanLecomte, who founded it to focuson reforestation. He is a man ofgreat conviction who cares deeplyabout the t ree, the “genius ofnature” that should be lauded forits “one hundred benefits”: treescapture carbon dioxide and heavymetals, which they sequester intheir trunks; they feed on nitratesand phosphates discharged intosoil by chemical fertilisers, therebypurifying ground water. A maturetree can cleanse 600 litres of water

“A MATURETREE PURIFIES600 LITRES OFWATER A YEAR.”Pur ProjetDirectorTristan Lecomte

87

•••

TREES: ESSENTIALELEMENTS INTHE NESPRESSO AAASUSTAINABLE QUALITY™PROGRAMThis extraordinary programme,introduced in 2003, was developedwith the American environmentalNGO Rainforest Alliance. It ensuresthe payment of a quality bonus,higher than the market average,and provides training and technicalsupport to farmers in a questto improve crop quality and yieldwhile preserving biodiversity.The Nespresso AAA SustainableQuality™ Program is a keydimension of the Nespressosustainable development initiative,known as The Positive Cup,launched in 2014.

each year. “Planting a tree,” theeco-entrepreneur explains, “willcost two to four euros and a fewminutes of time; it then providesfree ecosystem services for thenext 150 years.”

groWing shaDeThis commitment is shared by the

coffee growers of the pilot projects,who have discovered the perfect“weapon of mass reconstruction”:if a farmer wants to fight erosion,he will choose shrubs having rootgrowth that prevents soil attritionwhile providing wood for cutting.To mitigate temperature and sunexposure, he will plant large trees

Pur Projet’sagronomistsaccompanyeach farmeronto his landto help accuratelyassess his needs.They then workwith him to choosethe most suitabletree species.

to create “parasols”. This meansthat,on his land in Los Amates,alsoin Guatemala,Eugenio Pérez“growsthe shade as carefully as he growshis coffee trees.” There can beneither too many (moisture gener-ates disease and a lack of sunlightdecreases harvests) nor too few(sun overexposure depletes flavourand attracts a parasite responsiblefor rust, a harmful plant disease). Itis one of the laws of nature: a coffeetree, let alone the delicate Arabica,needs the perfect degree of shade.And the aromatic varieties neededby Nespresso thrive in biodiversity-rich ecosystems. What’s more, abroad variety of tree species

88

he lps a fa rmeri n c r e a s e h i sincome: each year,he can se l l thefruit-tree harvestsa n d m a n a g eprecious woodsl i ke mahogany,cedar or sandal-wood as capitalfor his retirement.This is reassuring to Don Luciowho, though himself feeling tooold to enjoy newer plantings, isdelighted about what his grand-children and great-grandchildrenwill have in the future. For thosewondering if the trees can benefityoung people: in Guatemala, inthe village of Vista Hermosa, aportion of the agroforestry projectis managed by a man just 23 yearsold.In the words of Tristan Lecomte:“This is the beginning of a long and

beautiful story!” ThePur Projet Director,who just rolled outNesp res s o p i l o tp r o g r ammes i nEthiopia and Mexico,i s w i t n e s s i n g atremendous rippleeffect : “S ince thep ro j e c t wa s an -nounced in August

2014 , many compan ies havewanted to strengthen ties withNespresso to see how the brandhas managed to coordinate sucha broad, effective initiative.” It isa dramatic demonstration thatNespresso can educate othersand leverage the p lan t ing o fmillions of trees in the years tocome. A virtuous circle that servesas a model, embodying the spiritof its sustainable developmentprogramme,The Positive Cup.n

To startthe projectin the field,coffee farmersare encouragedto attendinformationand trainingsessions.

YALE UNIVERSITYLENDS ITS SUPPORTAs part of their agroforestryproject, Pur Projet and Nespressodeveloped a partnership withthe Yale School of Forestryand Environmental Studies inthe United States. The prestigiousuniversity was the finalistin the international NespressoSustainability MBA Challenge heldin 2014, inviting brainstormingon the carbon footprint strategy.The combined forces of Yaleand Pur Projet has led to anindependent study overseen byProfessor Florencia Montagnini,which will analyse six keyindicators of agroforestry’sbeneficial effects in Colombia.Formulation of these indicatorsis designed to confirm the positiveimpacts of agroforestry inNespresso coffee supply chainand develop values that arecomplementary to the currentaccepted carbon measurements.

SELLINGPRECIOUSWOODSPROVIDESRETIREMENTCAPITALFOR COFFEEGROWERS.

89

MAHOGANY

(for shade and wood)

Soil qualityimprovement,watersupply management,carbon sequestration,biodiversitymanagement.

Increasedquality coffeeproduction.

Improvedlivelihoods.

Producereconomicactivities.

Social andenvironmentalsolidarity.

(for shade)and other citrus trees(fruit to eat and sell)

STONE PINE(PARASOL PINE)

FRUITTREE

AVOCADO LEMONPALO BLANCO CEDAR TABEBUIA ROSEA

NESPRESSO AGROFORESTRY INITIATIVE BY THE NUMBERS

TREE SPECIES PLANTED(Figures based on the project carried out in 2014 in three Guatemalan cooperatives involving 180 farmers and 50,000 planted trees)

NUMBER OF TREES PLANTED

IMPACT OF AGROFORESTRY

For an initial financial investment of $1,the ecosystemic, social and entrepreneurialgain totals $3.25 a year.

PRINCIPLE BENEFITS

34,000 TREES

68%9,000 TREES

18%7,000 TREES

14%

82%of trees areplantedon coffeeplantations.

The amount of land preserved per hectareper year through agroforestry.

18%are planted outsidecoffee plantationson eroded ornon-crop lands.

PLANTING LOCATION REDUCTION IN SOIL EROSION

GOAL BY END 2015: 630,000

50 TONNES

Sources: Pur Projet

325%return oninvestment

90

MATCHLESS COFFEEMOMENTSTHE GRANDS CRUS AND HIGH-PERFORMANCE MACHINES OF THE NESPRESSOPROFESSIONAL RANGE CREATE UNFORGETTABLE COFFEE MOMENTS.HERE’S A SELECTION OF LITTLE-KNOWN,UNUSUAL OR RARE SITES THATMAKE THEIR FLAVOUR MORE UNFORGETTABLE STILL.By Nadia Hamam

SAVOURINGTHESAVANNAHWhere? Sabi SandGame Reserve,west of Kruger Parkin South Africa, homeof the Leopard HillsLodge, one of thecontinent’s mostexquisite properties.Which machine?The restaurant hasa Gemini 220, withan extraction systemand double-headed milkdispensing that make ita very popular apparatus.Uncommon feature?Enjoy a Grand Crua few metres awayfrom the wild cats wholent their name to thismagical, protected site.www.leopardhills.com

WATCHINGTHE CLASH

OF THETITANS

Where? The VIP PrivateBoxes at Wembley

Stadium, Greater London.Which machines?Cappuccinatore,

for milk recipes, andZenius. True pros!

Uncommon feature?Though these boxes can

be custom-decoratedto suit the tenants’

whims, aesthetes willlove the choices made

by the designers ofWallpaper magazine.

clubwembley.wembleystadium.com

IN THE CALMOF THECLOISTERWhere? In thecustom-designedhotel at the Abbeyof Fontevraud, deep inthe Loire Valley, France.Which machines?No fewer than tenZenius and oneAguila 420. Perfectfor making LatteMacchiatos and otherdelicious milk recipes.Uncommon feature?Enjoy a Grand Crubeneath the cloister’svaulted ceilings beforestrolling throughEurope’s largestmonastic city.www.fontevraud.fr

91NESPRESSO Pro

NEAR THENORTH POLEWhere? Norway’s Lofotenarchipelago, northof the Arctic Circle,at the designer ThonHotel in Svolvær,the liveliest townin the glacial regions.Which machines?Zenius Machines inthe rooms. An Aguila 420,a Gemini 200 anda Gemini 220 inthe restaurant.Uncommon feature?After cruising the watersbeside whales and orcas,sip your Grand Cruunder the midnightsun or while watchingthe Northern Lights.www.thonhotels.no

FROM THECREST OF

THE SLOPESWhere? The Corviglia

ski area, perchedat 2,486 metres near

the resort of St. Moritz,Switzerland, is home tothe Quattro Bar, created

by Audi: 100 squaremeters of lush alpineluxury with massive

glass facades andbreathtaking views.

Which machine?An Aguila 420 to create

a wide variety of hotand cold beverages at

the touch of button.Uncommon feature?

The capsules aredelivered by funicular

from St. Moritz.

AT 9,000METRESALTITUDEWhere? On certainairliners, particularlythose of the airlineSwiss, in firstor business class.Which machine?A model that respectsthe quality standardsof Nespresso (includingthe crema) in a high-altitude setting. ThisMachine is packedwith high-performancetechnology meetingstrict aviation-industrystandards.Uncommon feature?A new functionmeans Cappuccinoscan be preparedin a single motion.www.swiss.com

YOU’LL FIND THESE PLACES (EXCEPT SWISS AND WEMBLEY) AND MANY OTHER HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS AT WWW.NESPRESSO.COM/CONNOISSEUR

Leop

ardHills

(V.Lew

is);JamieSmith

;Nicolas

Mathe

us;q

uattroBar

(MathisFo

odAffa

irs);Swiss;

Kristin

Oslan

d.;D

R.

FOR INFORMATIONON THE

PROFESSIONALRANGE, VISIT

www.nespresso.com/pro

92

OF COSITHE“MILDEST”ESPRESSO IS BACK IN THE SPOTLIGHTIN AN UPDATED EDITION! THE NEW COSI – WITH A COLOUR,AROMATIC PROFILE AND INTENSITY ALL ITS OWN – IS NOTQUITE THE SAME,BUT IS STILL UNMISTAKEABLY COSI.By Nadia Hamam

THENEWFACE

Cosi is keeping up with you!The sign of a true classic isthe ability to bend with the windsof change. Cosi, now slightlyreinvented, is keeping pacewith the times to better satisfycoffee connoisseurs who aremad about milds.

The Midas touchThe capsule colour is a lighter,luminous brown brightenedwith a hint of gold.Those whoappreciate colour-coordinatedcoffee moments will love the newPIXIE cup in the same colour.

A distinct aromatic identityWith the 30th anniversaryof the first Nespresso Grands Crusfast approaching, the CoffeeExperts have restyled the Cosiformula for an improved profile.Intensity has increased from3 to 4; the flavour profile is nowrefined for greater roundness andbalance. There are fewer acidicnotes, thanks to the new blendof Pure Arabicas from East andCentral Africa and South America.The new taste has unprecedentedmildness with toasted cereal facetsand the aromas of ripe berries.

DR

NESPRESSO Grand Cru 93

LATTISSIMATOUCHSHADESOFCHICTWO NEW COLOURS JOIN THE PERMANENT RANGEOR THIS TALENTED MACHINE THAT EXPERTLY PREPARESYOUR MILK RECIPES. By Nadia Hamam

You are: urban, casual, elegant, epicurean.Your machine: The Lattissima Touchlets you prepare your milk recipes quicklyand easily with the One Touch feature.The two metallic shades,Black Titaniumand Silver Palladium,are sure to coordinatecomfortably anywhere in your home.

NESPRESSO News

You are: creative, daring, a fashionfiend, unquestionably optimistic.Your machine: Inissia, the perkypowerhouse of high-tech featureson the leading edge of every season.The new fall-winter edition comesin two exclusive, ephemeral coloursto brighten your kitchen: TropicalGreen and Canary.

INISSIAVIBRANTVIRTUOSO

A MACHINE THAT COMESIN SIX PERMANENTCOLOURS AND TWO NEWLIMITED-EDITION SHADESEVERY SIX MONTHS.

CANARY

TROPICALGREEN

DR

PALLADIUMSILVER

PALLADIUMSILVER

BLACKTITANIUM

Some accessories may not be available in your country.

9494

THE SPIRITOFGIVINGTHE FESTIVE SEASON IS THE PERFECT CHANCE TO EXPRESSTHE NESPRESSO LIFESTYLE! TAKE TIME TO PERUSEOUR SELECTION OF ACCESSORIES,TASTES AND SURPRISES,ALL PACKED IN ELEGANT,READY-TO-GIVE BOXES.By Nadia Hamam

PIXIE ESPRESSOAND LUNGOThis new boxed set combinestwo PIXIE Espresso cupswith two PIXIE Lungo cups.The double-wall cups instainless steel are prettilyengraved with a holidaypattern for a chic, understatedseasonal look.

NEWBONBONNIÈRE

The iconic capsuledispenser is dressed in a

sophisticated, contemporarysatin grey and graced with

a subtle, refined monogram.What’s more, it’s tucked

into an elegant, round boxfor gracious giving.‘Tis

the season for surprises!

2

9595NESPRESSO Boxed sets

URBANTRAVELLERSvelte and stylish, all dressedin matt black, this smaller-sized Travel Mug, compact likean Inissia Machine, is just rightfor holding two Lungos.The double stainless-steelwall keeps your beverageat the perfect temperaturefor sipping anywhere, any time.

4

CARRÉSAMANDES

The chewy sweetnessof an almond biscuit

with candied fruit,and its miniature

size makes it moresnackable than ever!

Perfectly square treatsthat take your taste

buds to new horizonswhen enjoyed with any

of our Grands Crus.Distributed exclusively

in Europe.

THE 2015 VARIATIONS:SPICY,BISCUITY,SWEET SENSATIONSLivanto coffee is the beating heartof these three creations. This Espresso,with an intensity of 6, has an exquisitebalance that brings out the best of theseflavour combinations. VANILLA AMARETTIboasts almond notes intensified with vanillaflavor, reminiscent of amaretti biscuits,to bring out the roundness of the Livanto.CIOCCO GINGER pairs the toasted, biscuitynotes of Livanto coffee with an intensechocolate flavour heightened with a hintof ginger. And VANILLA CARDAMOM?The Livanto’s toasted notes are borneon the aromatic harmony of vanillaand cardamom. Availablefor a few weeks only.

3

5Some accessories may not be available in your country.

96

WHITE & CORAL NEONPIXIE CLIPSIncludes two sets of clips(white and neon coral).

BLACK & LEMON NEONPIXIE CLIPSIncludes two sets of clips(black and neon yellow).

MACHINES&COLLECTIONS

DISCOVER THE PIXIE CLIPS RANGE! EACH OF THE TWO MODELS COMES WITH A PAIROF INTERCHANGEABLE SIDE PANELS.CHOOSE FROM A SPECTRUM OF COLOURSAND TEXTURES TO PERSONALISE YOUR MACHINE TO MATCH YOUR DÉCOR OR MOOD!

FIND AND ORDER ALL MACHINES & COLLECTIONS ON OUR WEBSITE: WWW.NESPRESSO.COM

Actua

lpro

duc

tsm

aydiffer

from

imag

es.N

espress

orese

rves

therigh

ttom

odify

itspro

duc

tswith

outn

otice.

97NESPRESSO The Selection

PURE COLLECTIONTHE LATEST NESPRESSO LINE COMBINES THE BEAUTYOF PORCELAIN WITH STREAMLINED CONTEMPORARY DESIGN,BRINGING A TOUCH OF LUXURY TO YOUR COFFEE MOMENTS.

WOOD

MATT-SHINY

CORDURA

MATT RED

JEAN

CARBON

DOTS ORANGE

WHITE CHESS

LINES

BLACK CITIES

DOTS RED

BLACK FLAVOUR

Some accessories may not be available in your country.

PURE MUGSet of2 Mugsand saucersin porcelain(ca. 300 ml).Ref. 3659/2

PURELUNGOSet of2 Lungo cupsand saucersin porcelain(ca. 180 ml).Ref. 3657/2

PUREESPRESSOSet of2 Espresso cupsand saucersin porcelain(ca. 80 ml).Ref. 3656/2

PURECAPPUCCINOSet of2 Cappuccinocups andsaucersin porcelain(ca. 180 ml).Ref. 3658/2

CHOOSE OTHER PANELS FROM THE WIDE SELECTIONOF PATTERNS,COLOURS AND TEXTURES.

ENJOY YOUR MAGAZINE IN TABLETFORM STARTING MID-NOVEMBERAND COLLECT ALL THE PREVIOUS ISSUES COVERINGCAPE TOWN, ROME, TOKYO, NEW YORK AND MORE.

APP NOW AVAILABLE IN COUNTRIES WITH AN APP STORE OR GOOGLE PLAY STORE DR

–M

icka

ëlA

.Ban

dass

ak.

TABLET VERSION EXCLUSIVES

Find even more addresses recommendedby Club Members, plus a video postcardof the city.

COFFEE MARK Carminho

CHORIZO-CHEESE SANDWICH& KAZAAR

CROQUETE DE CARNE& ARPEGGIO

RISSÓIS DE CAMARÃO& VIVALTO LUNGO

To make one sandwich,lightly toast 2 slicesof the bread. n Spreadthe insides with 3 tbsp. cheeseand add 8 chorizo slices.n Assemble the sandwichand enjoy. n Serve witha Kazaar Ristretto (25ml).

A PERFECT MATCH:The sandwich’s rich textureand spicy notes call for an intenseGrand Cru, like Kazaar.

Sauté the chopped onionand garlic with a drizzleof olive oil, add the crushedtomato and meat. n Brownthe mixture. Add salt andpepper, coriander and lemonjuice. n Make the béchamel:melt the butter, addthe chopped onion and cookbriefly without browning.n Sprinkle with flour, thengradually pour in the milk,stirring with a spatula untilthe mixture is compact.Season with salt and pepperand remove from heat.n Add the meat and let cool.

n Form croquettes andflour them one by one. n Dipthem in the beaten eggs,then breadcrumbs. n Deep fryfor several minutes in hot oil.n Remove with a slotted spoonand drain on paper towels.n Serve with an ArpeggioEspresso (40 ml) cocktail.Place 5 ice cubes and 15 cltonic in a recipe glass,pour the Espresso on top.

A PERFECT MATCH: An energeticassociation of a flavourful savourydish and a fresh, bracing Arpeggiococktail.

To make the dough, warm20 ml of milk and the butter,add salt, pour over the flour,mix and form a ball, set asidein the refrigerator. n Boil the75 cl of milk with salt, pepper,thyme, add the shrimp, simmerfor 1 minute and removefrom heat. n Shell the shrimpand strain the milk. n Heat40 g butter. As soon it beginsto bubble, sprinkle with flourand pour in the milk in a thinstream, whisking until it formsa béchamel. Add salt, pepper,nutmeg. n Quarter the shrimpand add to the béchamelwith the parsley. n Roll out

the dough, cut it into 8 cmrounds, place 1 tsp. béchamelin centre, moisten the edge,fold the dough round. n Placethe turnovers on a flouredbaking platter. n Deep-frythe rissóis in hot oil in groupsof 4 until golden brown; drainon paper towels. n Serve withVivalto Lungo.Pour the coconutmilk (20 ml) into the cupand add the Lungo (110 ml).

A PERFECT MATCH: The VivaltoLungo’s floral and toasted notes,when paired with coconut milk,taste superb with the potent,exotic flavours of this shrimp dish.

SERVES 6PREPARATION TIME: 10 minutes COOKING TIME: 2 minutesINGREDIENTS: 6 capsules of Kazaar (6 x 25 ml).12 slices farmhouse bread - 1 creamy sheep’s milk cheese(queijo de ovelha amanteigado) - 1 chouriço (chorizo in Portuguese).

SERVES 6PREPARATION TIME: 30 minutes COOKING TIME: 30 minutesINGREDIENTS: 6 capsules of Arpeggio (6 x 40 ml)- 6 x 5 ice cubes - 6 x 15 cl tonic.For 24 pieces (4 per person.): 500 g ground beef - 1 onion- 1 tomato - 1 clove garlic - olive oil - 3 tbsp. chopped coriander(cilantro) - juice of 1 lemon - 2 eggs - 100 g breadcrumbs- 1.5 litre frying oil - salt - pepper. For the béchamel: 40 g butter- 1 onion - 80 g + 1 tsp. flour - 20 cl milk - salt - pepper.

SERVES 6PREPARATION TIME: 45 minutes COOKING TIME: 15 minutesINGREDIENTS: 6 capsules of Vivalto Lungo (6 x 110 ml)- 6 x 20 ml coconut milk (beverage form).75 cl milk - salt - pepper - 3 thyme sprigs - grated nutmeg- 800 g thawed whole shrimp - 40 g butter - 3 tbsp. flour(60 g) - 1 tbsp. finely chopped parsley - 1.5 litres frying oil.The dough: 20 cl milk - 1 tbsp. butter - 200 g flour - salt.

COD AND CHICK PEA SALAD& COSI

Cook the chickpeasfor 90 minutes in boiling water,add salt toward end of cooking.n Cook cod about 10 minutesin unsalted boiling water.n Finely chop the onion, mincethe garlic, chop the parsley,place them in a bowl withthe cod and drained chickpeas,add salt and pepper anda drizzle of olive oil. n Placethe vinaigrette ingredients

in a jar, close and shake wellto blend the dressing,then mix into the salad.(For quicker preparation,you can choose to use cannedprepared chickpeas).

A PERFECT MATCH: A recipebrought to life by the seasoning.The Cosi Espresso reveals warm,roasted notes that are furtherheightened by the tang of the vinegar.

SERVES 6PRÉPARATION : 15 minutes COOKING TIME: 1hour 40 minutesINGREDIENTS: 250g chickpeas soaked in water overnight - 200 gdesalted cod - 1 large onion - 2 cloves garlic - 1 bunch parsley- salt - pepper - 1 drizzle olive oil.The coffee vinaigrette: 3 tbsp. olive oil - 2 tbsp. neutral oil- 2 tbsp. red wine vinegar - salt - pepper - 1 capsule of Cosi (40 ml).

Pure Collection Lungo cup (Nespresso) - Spoon (Cutipol) - Tiles (Emery & Cie).Production Marie Leteuré Styling Juliette de Cadoudal Photography Jérôme Bilic

Bowl (Home Autour du Monde) - Glass (Fleux) - Cutlery (Cutipol) - Tiles (Emery & Cie).Production Marie Leteuré Styling Juliette de Cadoudal Photography Jérôme Bilic

Glass Espresso glass (Nespresso) - Tiles (Emery & Cie).Production Marie Leteuré Styling Juliette de Cadoudal Photography Jérôme Bilic

Glass Recipe glass and spoon (Nespresso) - Plates (Gien) - Tiles (Emery & Cie).Production Marie Leteuré Styling Juliette de Cadoudal Photography Jérôme Bilic

CHORIZO-CHEESE SANDWICH& KAZAAR

CROQUETE DE CARNE& ARPEGGIO

RISSÓIS DE CAMARÃO& VIVALTO LUNGO

COD AND CHICK PEA SALAD& COSI

1PA

RQUEDASNAÇÕES

1990-005Lisboa

www.portaldasnacoes.pt

2TERRA

ÇO

BABairro

Alto

Hotel,

Praça

Luísde

Cam

ões,2,1200-243

Lisboa'

+351

213408

288www.bairroaltohotel.com

3MEN

INOSDO

RIO

Rua

Cintura

doPorto

deLisboa,arm

azém255,

1200-109Lisboa

'+351

213220

071www.m

eninosdorio.com

4RESTA

URA

NTE

PHARM

ACIA

Rua

MarechalS

aldanha,1,1200-069

Lisboa'

+351

213462

146

5BA

IRROCAIS

DO

SODRÉ

1200-161Lisboa

6IBO

RESTAURA

NTE

Cais

doSodré,

1200-450Lisboa

'+351

213423

611www.ibo-restaurante.pt

7STA

TION

RESTAURA

NT&

CLU

BCais

doGás,arm

azémA,

Porta

7,1200-109Lisboa

'+351

210116

546www.station-club.com

8MER

CADO

DA

RIBEIRAAvenida

24de

Julho,50,1200-161

Lisboa'

+351

213593

100

9TRA

M28

Praça

Martim

Moniz-C

ampo

Ourique,Lisboa

qpA

BRASILEIRA

Rua

Garrett,120,

1200-273Lisboa

'+351

213469

541

qqSÃO

LUIZ

TEATRO

MUNIC

IPAL

Rua

António

Maria

Cardoso,

38,1200-027Lisboa

'+351

213257

640www.teatrosaoluiz.pt

qsC

ENTRO

CULTU

RALDEBELÉM

Praça

doIm

pério,1449-003

Lisboa'

+351

213612

400www.ccb.pt

qdC

AFÉ

LISBOA

TeatroNacionalde

São

Carlos,

Largode

São

Carlos,23,

1200-410Lisboa

'+351

211914

498www.cafelisboa.pt

qfRESTA

URA

NTE

ALFA

IATravessa

daQueim

ada,1200-365

Lisboa'

+351

213461

232www.restaurantealfaia.com

qgFEIRA

DA

LADRA

Cam

pode

Santa

Clara,

1100-472Lisboa

'+351

218170

800

qhJA

RDIM

DA

QUIN

TAREA

LDECAXIA

SEstrada

daGibalta,

2760-064Lisboa

'+351

214115

062

qjM

ERCADO

DECAMPO

DEOURIQ

UE

Rua

Coelho

daRocha,

1350-075Lisboa

'+351

211323

701www. m

ercadodecampo

deourique.pt

qkFU

NDAÇÃO

CALO

USTE

GULBEN

KIA

NAvenida

deBerna,45,

1067-001Lisboa

'+351

217823

000www.gulbenkian.pt

qlPRA

ÇA

DO

COMÉRC

IO1100-148

Lisboa

spCASTELO

DESÃ

OJO

RGE

Rua

deSanta

Cruz,

1100-129Lisboa

'+351

218800

620www.castelodesaojorge.pt

sqCAFÉ

DESÃ

OBEN

TORua

deSão

Bento,212,

1200-821Lisboa

'+351

213952

911www.cafesaobento.com

ssRESTAURA

NTE

BELCANTO

Largode

São

Carlos,10,

1200-410Lisboa

'+351

213420

607www.belcanto.pt

sdBAIRRO

ROSSIO

2565-773Lisboa

sfMISS

SAIG

ON

Rua

Cais

dasNaus,

Parque

dasNações,

1990-305Lisboa

'+351

210996

589www.m

iss-saigon.pt

sgOCEA

NÁRIO

DELISBO

AEsplanada

Dom

Carlos

I,1990-005

Lisboa'

+351

218917

000www.oceanario.pt

shPASTÉIS

DEBELÉM

Rua

Belém

,84-92,1300-085

Lisboa'

+351

213637

423www.pasteisdebelem

.pt

sjLIVRA

RIABIVA

RRua

dePonta

Delgada,34

A,

1000-243Lisboa

'+351

214072

192www.bookshopbivar.com

skMIRA

DOURO

DESA

NTA

LUZIA

LargoSanta

Luzia,4,1100-387

Lisboa

slMESA

DEFRA

DES

Rua

dosRem

édios,139A,

1100-445Lisboa

'+351

917029

436

dpACEV

ICHERIA

Rua

Dom

Pedro

V,129,1250-096

Lisboa'

+351

218038

815

dqBARPRO

CÓPIO

Rua

São

FranciscoSales,21,

1250-228Lisboa

'+351

213852

851www.barprocopio.com

dsBANANACAFE

Praça

doMunicípio,

1100-365Lisboa

ddBIBLIOTEC

AJardim

daEstrela,

1200-667Lisboa

'+351

213904

198

dfQUIO

SQUEDEREFRESC

OPraça

Luísde

Cam

ões,1200-243

Lisboa'

+351

213958

329www.quiosquederefresco.

blogspot.fr

dgQUIO

SQUEDO

MER

CADO

Praça

daEstrela,

1200-667Lisboa

dhQUIO

SQUEDEREFRESC

OPraça

dasFlores,

1200-192Lisboa

'+351

213958

329www.quiosquederefresco.

blogspot.fr

djQUIO

SQUEPRÍN

CIPE

REA

LPraça

doPríncipe

Real,

1250-184Lisboa

'+351

213428

334

dkGEN

GIBR

EDA

ESTRELAJardim

daEstrela,

1200-667Lisboa

dlQUIO

SQUEDO

MIRADOURO

DESÃ

OPED

RODEALC

ÂNTA

RA

Rua

São

Pedro

deAlcântara,

1250-237Lisboa

fpQUIO

SQUEDEREFR

ESCO

Praça

deSão

Paulo,

1200Lisboa

'+351

213958

329www.quiosquederefresco.

blogspot.fr

fqQUIO

SQUERIBEIR

ADASNAUS

Avenida

Ribeira

dasNaus,

1100-454Lisboa

fsBANANACAFE

Avenida

daLiberdade,

1250-096Lisboa

fdQUIO

SQUEDEREFR

ESCO

Largoda

Sé,1100-401

Lisboa'

+351

213958

329www.quiosquederefresco.

blogspot.fr

ffHOTEL

SANTA

JUSTA

Rua

dosCorreeiros,204,

1100-170Lisboa

'+351

210499

000www.hotelsantajustalisboa.com

fgTARTIN

ERua

Serpa

Pinto,15,

1200-000Lisboa

'+351

213429

108www.tartine.pt

fhROYA

LECAFÉ

LargoRafaelB

ordaloPinheiro,

29,1200-369Lisboa

'+351

213469

125www.royalecafe.com

fjHIK

IDASH

IRua

Coelho

daRocha,20

A,

1250-088Lisboa

'+351

213955

555

fkPENHA

LONGA

HOTEL

&RESO

RTEstrada

daLagoa

Azul,Linhó,

Sintra,2714-511

Lisboa'

+351

219249

011www.ritzcarlton.com

flVIVA

MARIN

HA

HOTEL

Rua

dasPalm

eiras,lote

5,Quinta

daMarinha,

2750-005Cascais

'+351

214829

100www.vivam

arinha.pt

gpFEITORIA

Altis

Belém

Hotel&

Spa,

Doca

doBom

Sucesso,

1400-038Lisboa

'+351

210400

200www.restaurantefeitoria.com

gqBAIRRO

CAMPO

DEOURIQ

UE

1350-075Lisboa

gsCERV

EJARIA

RAMIRO

AvenidaAlm

iranteReis,1

H,

1150-007Lisboa

'+351

218851

024www.cervejariaram

iro.pt

gdCONFEITA

RIA

NACIO

NAL

Praça

daFigueira,18

B,

1100-241Lisboa

'+351

213243

000www.confeitarianacional.com

gfPASTELA

RIASU

ÍÇA

Praça

Dom

Pedro

IV,96-104,1100-202

Lisboa'

+351

213214

090www.casasuica.pt

ggMANTEIG

ARIA

Rua

doLoreto,2,

1200-242Lisboa

'+351

213471

492

ghMONTE

BELVED

ERERua

Santa

Catarina,17,

1200-012Lisboa

'+351

914176

969www.shiadu.com

gjMIRA

DOURO

DA

GRA

ÇA

(MIRA

DOURO

SOPH

IADEMELLO

BREYN

ERANDRESEN

)Largo

daGraça,

1170-165Lisboa

gkCAFÉ

ESPLANADA

DO

MIRA

DOURO

DO

MONTE

AGUDO

Rua

Heliodoro

Salgado,

1170Lisboa

'+351

218120

654

glPARK

Calçada

doCom

bro,58,1200-109

Lisboa'

+351

215914

011

hpPATEO

13Calçadinha

deSanto

Estêvão,13,

1100Lisboa

'+351

218882

325

hqDUPLEX

RESTAURA

NTE

&BA

RRua

Nova

doCarvalho,58-60,

1200-292Lisboa

'+351

915162

808www.duplexrb.pt

hsTHEIN

SÓLITO

Rua

SãoPedro

deAlcântara,83,

1250-238Lisboa

'+351

211303

306www.theinsolito.pt

hdDONA

QUITÉR

IATravessa

São

José,1,1200-415

Lisboa'

+351

213951

521

hfPRIMEIRO

ANDAR

Rua

dasPortas

deSanto

Antão,110,

1150-260Lisboa

'+352

213461

327

hgFOXTRO

TTravessa

Santa

Teresa,28,1200-405

Lisboa

'+351

213952

697www.barfoxtrot.pt

hhPAVILH

ÃO

CHIN

ÊSRua

Dom

Pedro

V,89,1250-093

Lisboa'

+351

213424

729www.barpavilhaochines.

blogspot.fr

hjVESTIG

IUSBA

RRua

daCintura

doPorto

deLisboa,arm

azémA17,

1200-450Lisboa

'+351

218203

320www.vestigius.pt

hkPENSÃ

OAMOR

Rua

doAlecrim

,19,1200-292

Lisboa'

+351

213143

399www.pensaoam

or.pt

hlMUSIC

BOX

Rua

Nova

doCarvalho,24,

1200-292Lisboa

'+351

213430

107www.m

usicboxlisboa.com

jpBA

R-CLU

BEFERRO

VIÁ

RIORua

deSanta

Apolónia,59,

1100-468Lisboa

'+351

218134

656www.clubeferroviarioblog.com

jqLU

X-FRÁ

GIL

AvenidaInfante

Dom

Henrique,

armazém

A,

1950-376Lisboa

'+351

218820

890www.luxfragil.com

jsCONSERV

EIRADELISBO

ARua

dosBacalhoeiros,34,

1100-071Lisboa

'+351

218864

009www.conserveiradelisboa.pt

ADDRES

SES

FIN

DALL

THELIS

BON

ADDRESSES

REFERRED

TOIN

THIS

ISSUE.

1Nespresso

Boutiq

ueno

Chiado,

Rua

Garrett,

8,1200-204

Lisboa

2Nesp

ressoBoutiq

uena

Avenid

aAntónio

Augusto

Aguiar,

edifício

Alto

doParq

ue,29

C,1069-413

Lisboa3

Nespresso

Boutiq

ueno

Parq

uedas

Nações,

Avenid

aDom

JoãoII,

lote1.06.2.1,

edifício

Mythos,

loja2R/c,

1998-016Lisb

oa4

Nespresso

Boutiq

ueno

Centro

Com

ercialColom

bo,

Avenid

aLusíad

a,lojas

0.126e0.127,

1500-392Lisboa

LOCATE

ALL

THE

BOUTIQ

UE

ADDRESSES

AROUND

THE

WORLD

USIN

GTHE

NESPRESSO

MOBILE

APP

FOR

SMARTPHONES

AND

TABLE

TS.

NES

PRES

SO

BOUTIQ

UES

&CLU

BFIN

DTHE

FOUR

BOUTIQ

UES

INLIS

BON

ON

THE

MAP.

NESPRESSO

CLU

BPORTUGAL:TOLL-F

REE

NUMBER

0800260

260

MA

Pfr

omw

ww.

map

scd.

com

ILL

UST

RA

TIO

NS

Mat

thie

uC

arré

LISB

ON

Marine DiverSelf-winding movement. Water-resistant

to 300m. 18 ct rose gold case.

Also available in stainless steel.

U LY S S E - NA R D I N . COM

LONDON : C h a t i l a - O l d B o n d S t r e e tH a r r o d s - B r omp t o n R o a d

K r o n ome t r y 1 9 9 9 - N ew Bo n d S t r e e tWa t c h e s o f Sw i t z e r l a n d - R e g e n t S t r e e t

M a p p i n & Web b : Te rm i n a l 5 - H e a t h r o w A i r p o r tWa t c h e s o f Sw i t z e r l a n d : Te rm i n a l 4 - H e a t h r o w A i r p o r t

G L A SGOW : R o x - 4 2 - 4 5 A r g y l l A r c a d e

F o r a c a t a l o g , c a l l 0 8 0 0 8 7 6 6 6 9 8 o rU LY S S E NARD I N SA - L e L o c l e - Sw i t z e r l a n d

Te l . + 4 1 3 2 9 3 0 7 4 0 0 - i n f o@u l y s s e - n a r d i n . c h