Advanced- Chest of Drawers

8/13/2019 Advanced- Chest of Drawers

1/8

Chest of DrawersThis classic chest of drawers uses a mixture of modern and traditionaltechniques in its construction. The method is logical and straightforward,but it requires exact cutting to ensure that the cabinet is square and true,and the drawers fit well.The project as written requires use of the Router & Jigsaw Table, but thechest of drawers can be made with just the Workcentre and your saw only.You won't be able to add the decorative touches, and you will need to dothe necessary trenching with your saw rather than your router.The Triton Extension Table is used for cutting the particle board andplywood sheets. lf you don't have one, you will need to cut these panelsusing straight battens clamped to your material, and your saw hand-held.

Tool Requirements1. ESSENTIAL Triton Workcentre and your power saw; electric drill and Triton Woodbits; two pairs of pipe or barclamps to span 1.2m.; two or more G-clamps; small handsaw (tenon saw preferred); hammer; nail punch; screw-driver; measuring tape; square; pencil; orbital sander and various grades of sandpaper.2. USEFUL Triton Extension Table; Triton Router and Jigsaw Table and your router; router bits as follows: RomanOgee; 9mm straight cutter; 19mm straight cutter; small Classical; beading or rounding-over bit; Triton Roller SupporlStand; Bevel Cutting and Routing platform (see Jig Guide); band clamp; additional clamps; hand plane; belt sander;drill press.

@ Copyright Triton Manufacturing and Design Co. Pty. Ltd. lssue No.l. December 1991


2/8

Gonstruction DetailsGom ponent Specif icationsAll dimensions are in mm,Part Description Qtv. Width Thickness Lgth.A Cabinet topB Corner postsC Top (small) drawer frontsD Middle drawer frontsE Bottom drawer frontF Cabinet sidesG Cabinet backH Horizontal cover stripsI Vedical cover stripJ Bottom cover stripK Front plinth stripL Side plinth stripsM Internalframe (front & back)N Internalframe(sides)O Top drawers middle supportP Top drawers middle guideO Drawer guidesR Corner blocks - topS Corner blocks - bottomcover stripT Drawer sides (C&D drawers)U Drawer sides - large (E)V Drawer backs - small (C)W Drawer backs - middle (D)X Drawer back - large (E)Y Drawer bottom small (C)Z Drawer bottoms - large (D&E)AA Drawer stoos

1 5204422 1742 1741 2262 4521 9904321321 12019029010 7010 701901328 19219

32 108542 100019 45719 94819 94818 1000I 100019 95019 17519 95019 107219 51919 101019 47219 33219 47219 41619 416

2 19 19 100B 174 19 4792 226 19 4792 159 I 4312 159 I 9221 211 I 9222 431 I 4733 473 I 92210 40 3 100

NB. Use the component specifications as a guide only. Checkmeasurements and cut to exact size as construction proceeds.

Conveft to the table saw mode. Select and markthe material for the top (A) for best face andedge. Use a high rip fence extension to providesupport while you cut the stopped grooves in yourmaterial. Lower your blade to 13mm and cut thegrooves centrally in the edges of your 32mm material,stopping the saw blade well short of each end.

This procedure is also described in Step 3 of theDining Room Setting project (Advanced No.2), if youhave the first edition of the Triton Proiect Book.While in the table saw mode, rip 60mm off theback edge of the rear top piece, thus making thetotal width of (A) 520mm.

Rip a length of 3mm plywood scrap to 25mm widefor the spline; measure the length of the grooves (fulldepth portion) and cut the plywood to length. Coat thespline, grooves and joining edges with glue, clamptogether and set the top (A) aside to dry.

Material Shoppinq List1.WOODPanel Timbers:18mm Veneered Particle Board 1 @ 1830 x 915mm(6' x 3')9mm Plywood 2 @ 1830 x122Omm(6' x 4')Select seasoned furniture timber: Any furniture gradetimber will be suitable. Clear Radiata Pine was used inour example. Dressed sizes as follows:42 x 42mm29O x 32mm240 x 19mm190 x 19mm120 x 19mm90 x 19mm70 x 19mm32 x 19mm19 x 19mm

2 @ 2jm1 @ 2.4m1 @ [email protected],[email protected]@ 1.2m1 @ 2.7m10 @ [email protected], [email protected] @ 1.8mAlso: 6mm (1/4') dowels - either a 1.8m length ofgrooved dowel or a pack of prepared, fluted dowels; 3mmplywood - offcut or scrap at least 25mm wide, 900mmlong, for spline material (joining the two planks for the top);3mm plywood - offcuts 40mm wide, sufficient for 10drawer stops 100mm long.2. FASTENING8g x 40mm Round Head Wood Screws - 1089 x 30mm Round Head Wood Screws - 12Small Washers to suit - 1025mm x 1.25mm Bullet Head Nails - 1 pack15mm x 1.0mm Bullet Head Nails - 1 packPVA or equivalent wood glue (about 1 litre is needed)3. OTHERHigh Rip Fence extension; Straight, long timber batten forrouter fence extension.4. FASTENINGYou will need 8 handles of your choice for drawer pulls.Our Chest of Drawers was finished with a gloss poly-urethane (Cabot's "Cabothane"). The finish was applied ina dust{ree atmosphere with a quality varnish brush, andwith a light sanding (150 grit) between coats. A "tack-rag"was used to remove surface dust.

General Points1. The cabinet sides are veneered pafiicleboard.They are trenched on their inner faces to house thefive internal frames which subsequently become thedrawer supporls.2. 32mm wide lipping is applied to the front of the19mm frames for visual appeal, and to hide any gapsin the frame-to-side joints.3. Make the drawer fronts slightly oversize and trimto fit once the cabinet has been completed.I In the crosscut mode, cut the 290 x 32mmI material to length (1085mm) for the top (A).I Cut the material to length for the corner posts(B) (1000mm). (Figure 1)


3/8

rr K

III

1 000

'vrr-lt072FBONT ELEVATION

FIGURE 1

4sidesNote

Cut the rebates in the corner posts (B) next.To avoid mistakes, mark on the end grain of thecorner posts the positions of the rebates for the(F), and back (G). Shade the waste portions.that the rebates are mirror imaged. (Figure 2)Rip 18mm x 18mm rebates for the veneered particleboard side panels, and 20mm x 9mm rebates for the

plywood back. Follow safe operating procedureswhen cutting these rebates, ensuring that the narrowoffcuts are not left uncontrolled between the fenceand the spinning blade at the end of the cut.Fit the Extension Table. Consult Figure 3 andrip the 1830 x 915mm veneered particle boardacross the grain to provide a panel 1.0m long,91Smm wide.

Rip the 9mm plywood for the back (G) across its widthto 1.0m long. Rip one edge of this piece to 995mmwide (along the grain). Final size will be cut after thecabinet carcass is completed. Save the offcut for thesmall drawer backs (V).Rip the particle board panel along its grain togive you the two side panels (F) 452mm wide.Rough cut the material for the drawer bottoms(Y,Z) to 1220 x 485mm from the 9mm plywood. Onepiece comes from the large offcut and the other threeform the second sheet of ply. Save the remaining

material for the drawer backs. (See Figure 3).It is helpful to have an assistant "tailing-in" or "tailing-out" when cutting these panels. A Triton RollerSupport Stand is also useful at this point.

REBATES FOR BACK(9 X 20mm)

REBATESFORSIDES(18 x'l8mm)

FIGUBE 2


4/8

Construction Details| , '


5/8

TO BOTTOM FRAMES)

FRONT NOTCH23 x 30mm

FIGUBE 6

Make up the five internal frames (M & N) fromthe 70 x 19mm materialwith 1/2 lao cornerjoints, as shown in Figure 6. Use the Work-centre in the crosscut mode, and repetition rebate all20 pieces in say, groups of 3. Remove the notchedworkstop and use the ripfence as a stop.Glue and nailwith the small brads, remembering thatthe finished frames will need to be notched to clearthe corner posts. The finished frame sizes should be1010 x 472mm.f tl When the frames are dry, notch out theirI u :il:fr '^'"'.%'::fl:R $:,iTi?:T;:? ffii8;need to be recessed deeper than the front, so that theframes are flush with the rebated back edge of therear corner posts, but are 19mm in at the f ront, toallow for the front cover strips. (Figures 6 & 7)1 1 The cabinet carcass can now be assembled.I I Apply glue to the short side edges of ther r frames, and to the trenches in the side panels(F). A small disposable paint brush is helpful tospread the glue quickly and evenly. Assemble the fiveframes inside the two side panels.It is easiest to lay one side flat (on cardboard orsimilar to protect the outside face veneer), insert theframes and add the other side panel on top. With the FIGURE 7


6/8

Construction Details

f A Cut to size the top corne fromlz fi[]?'.:iiJ,lil3'fl',5 :il:3i"aid of an assistant, turn the assembly so that it is up-right and apply the clamps. Ensure that the assemblyis square (use a rafter square or compare corner-to-corner measurements) and leave to dry. (Figure 8)

provide additional strength here. See Figure 6 again.The top (A) is ultimately secured to the top frame.When the finished chest of drawers is moved, peoplewill tend to lift it by the overhanging top edges.l, Check the back opening with your measuringI 5 tape and trim the 9mm plywood for the backr lt (G) to size, using the Extension Table. Glueand nail to the back edges of the frames and therebates inside the rear corner posts (B). A smallpaint brush is again helpful for spreading the glue.I tl Check the top (A) for flatness, and ifI fJ necessary use a belt sander to remove anyr r unevenness. Fit the Roman Ogee router bit,and in the shaper mode rout the top edge moulding -sides first, then front and back.The top (A) is "slot-screwed" to the top frame, to allowfor expansion and contraction of the solid timber. Drill10 holes in the top frame - three per side, two perfront and back, evenly spaced. Make the holes about50% oversized compared to the screw shank size.Place the top into position on the carcass. lt shouldhave equal overhang on both sides, Smm overhangon the back, 15mm on the front. Mark through thecentres of the holes in the top frame. Remove the topand drill appropriate pilot holes for the 40mm round-head screws. Set the top aside until the rest of thecarcass is completed.f F Measure, cut and fit the 32 x 19 horizontall5 front cover strips (H), and the bottom coverr It strip (J) (120mm wiOe). Glue and clamp tothe front edges of the frames.

SCBAPUNDER

FIGURE 8

The top cover strip should fit hard up under the top(A) (place the top on the carcass and check whengluing); the other cover strips should have their topedges flush with the upper faces of the internalframes.Fit the vertical cover strip (l) midway between the twotop cover strips (H). Drill through the cover strips (H)from above and below into the ends of (l) and glue6mm dowels into the joints to provide additionalstrength. (One dowel top and bottom is sufficient.)f /F Cut and fit the top drawer's middle guideI (D :l"9,]5 ilffili ?',?T,B:fl ll,',i.'l,3,lifn:';::-of the cabinet up to and against the back of thevertical cover strip (l). (Figure 9)Cut the top drawer's middle support (0) from 90mmwide material to fit neatly inside the front and the backof the second frame, and glue and screw (two 30mmscrews) from below to the top drawers middle guide(P). (Figure 10)

DOWELS (TOP & BOTTOM)SECURE I TO HFIGURE 1O


7/8

LOCATION OFCORNERBLOCKS (S)(

BEBATE = gmm WIDE, 6mm DEEP.(NOTE: BOTTOM EDGE OF REBATE - 6mm FROM BOTTOM)FIGURE 12

REBATE = 9mmWIDE.6mm DEEP.(NOTE: REBATE1Omm lN FROMBACK)

SMALLDRAWERSHOWN

llllIrlltLtt(,

I tf cut e x 1e guides (Q)I t and il onto flush w th' f the of the s. Ensurethat they are parallel by measuring front and rearspacing as you proceed.Glue and nail the small corner blocks (S) to the frontcorner posts (B) and to the bottom cover strip (J), tostrengthen it against being dislodged if the cabinet isdragged across the floor. (Figure 11)

Use your router in the shaper mode to moulda Roman Ogee profile onto the top edge ofyour 90mm plinth material.Convert to the crosscut mode, and use your bevelcutting & routing platform to mitre cut the plinth (K & L)Screw (but don't glue ... these timber pieces will tendto "move" independently of the carcass) from insidethe cabinet, using ten 30mm round-head screwsevenly spaced, and along the centreline of the plinth.Screw the top (A) into place, with small washersunder the round-head screws. This completes thecabinet carcass.f || Check the openings for the drawer frontI St sizes, and using both the table saw andf Y crosscut modes, cut the drawer fronrs(C, D & E) to size.Similarly, measure and cut the drawer sides (T)and (U) to size. lf changing the sizes, note that thedrawers stop 5mm in from the back of the cabinet,and the sides are rebated into the drawer fronts.(Figure 12)

With the router in the shaper mode, cut thedecorative grooves in the front faces of thedrawers, using a small classical bit or similar.

Our grooves were 50mm from the top and bottomeoges.Use a 9mm straight bit to trench the grooves for thedrawer bottoms in the rear faces of the drawer frontsand inside faces of the drawer sides. The rebatesshould be 6mm deep, with the bottom edge of therebate 6mm from the bottom.Trench the grooves for the drawer backs into thedrawer sides, l Omm in from the rear edge, 6mmdeep.Note that the drawer sides are mirror imaged. Whenmaking these, and other cross-grain trenching cuts,back up your material with a piece of scrap to mini-mize breakout. Alternatively, these cuts can be madewith a lowered blade in the table saw mode.

2l Conveft tothe overhead router mode, and fityour bevel cutting & routing platform. With a

19mm straight cutter rebate the ends of thedrawer fronts to take the sides.Our rebates were 12mm deep, which ensured that wedidn't cut through the decorative grooves in the frontfaces. Again, scrap material providing support at theend of the cut helps prevent breakout.

A tl Convert to the table saw mode, and fit theI Z 5X5":;iT"T3,?;fi l?i'Hi#:iI: n"'Temporarily assemble the drawers and after againchecking dimensions cut the drawer backs (V, W & X)to size. You can crosscut the narrow pieces in thetable saw mode if you use a combination of theprotractor and the fence to guide your cuts.(Figure 13)

I


8/8

Construction Details

Next, assemble the drawers. Coat thevertical rebates in the drawer fronts andsides and their mating pieces with glue, butleave the grooves for the bottoms dry. Also, applyglue to the lower edge of the back (V, W & X) sothat the bottoms are fixed firmly at the rear but arefree to expand in the grooves.Assemble and clamp up, using square to check forright angles. The backs of the drawers will need add-itional downward clamping to ensure their successfulgluing to their respective bottom panels. (Figure 14)A spacer was inserted in the centre of the longerdrawers to ensure the correct distance was main-tained between the front and back of the drawer.

When the drawers are dry, drill and glue6mm dowels, about 40 - 50mm long,through the sides into the end grain of thedrawer fronts. We used three evenly spaced dowelsper corner for the top and middle drawers, four forthe larger bottom drawer. These dowels greatlystrengthen the corner joints. (Figure 15)A drill press will assist this operation. lf drilling byhand, try to minimize grain tear-out, and ensure thatyou drill reasonably vertically. Triton Woodbits willgive clean holes free from splintering and drill wander.Strengthen the back/bottom joints by inserting the25mm brads at 150mm spacing; nail through thebottoms into the respective backs as vertically aspossible to prevent the nails from spearing out thesides of the backs.A F Drill as required for your handles, and fitz ? ff s, fi r; I;:u''?", i' J ffi #?Hfflii?posts (B) just before fully closing, it may be becauseyour drawer guides are not completely flush with thecorner posts. To cure, chamfer the outside rear facesof the drawer sides with a sander to provide a smooth"lead-in".Finally, glue and nail (15mm brads) the small drawerstops (AA) onto the internal frames just flush with theback edge of the cover strips. These drawer stopscontact the inside face of the drawer fronts, under thebottom panels, to stop the drawers in their correctpositions.Round allthe edges lightly, and sand all over. Applythe finish of your choice, remembering to coat theunderside of the top (A) to prevent warping. For asmooth gliding action for your drawers, apply acoating of floor or furniture wax to their bottom edges,and to the parts of the internal frames and guideswhere the drawers contact.

Documents

Advanced- Chest of Drawers