Upload
lyngoc
View
221
Download
1
Embed Size (px)
Citation preview
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved. www.intertek.com 1
Presented by Rajath Kumar
February 2016
Activewear Performance
Testing
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 2 © Intertek 2016,
All Rights Reserved
Agenda – to be modified Capture the vast opportunities of the
global Activewear market
2015 2020
US$
Source: Allied Market Research, 2015
CARG 4.3%
$149 bn $185 bn
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 3 © Intertek 2016,
All Rights Reserved
Activewear: clothing designed to be
worn for sports, exercise,
outdoor endeavors and
other recreational activities.
Fitness
Sportswear
Athleisure
Fitness
Snow
Outdoor
Accessories
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 4 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Performance Testing for Activewear
Activewear Function & Performance Properties
Antibacterial & Anti-mold
Windproof
Water Resistant & Breathability
Water Repellant
Quick-Dry
UV Protection
Thermal Regulation
Stretch & Recovery
© Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 5 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Textiles with Antibacterial/
Odor-control/
Anti-mold Functions
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 6 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Antibacterial Testing
For products with anti-odor properties
Why does odor happen?
• Micro-organisms grow on perspiration causes unpleasant odors
How are anti-odor claims verified?
• Anti-microbial agent is applied to kill microorganisms, thus removing
the root case of the unpleasant odor
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 7 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Antibacterial Testing
What is a good anti-microbial agent?
• Good activity with wide coverage
• Sustainable, resistance to washing
• Inexpensive
• Safe to humans and the environment
• No effect on the texture and color of garments
What anti-microbial agents are commonly used?
• Organic, e.g., alcohol, ammonium salt
• Inorganic, e.g., silver, zinc
• Natural, e.g., Chitonsan
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 8 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Antibacterial Testing
How is anti-bacterial function tested?
Qualitative method
• Applicable to leaching and
slightly leaching agent
• For non-leaching agent, result
will be not significant
• Standards:
• AATCC 147 (most used)
• ISO 20645
• SN 195920
• JIS L1902
• CNS 13097
Quantitative method
• Applicable to both leaching and non-leaching agent
• More time-consuming
• Standards:
• AATCC 100 (most used)
• JIS L1902
• ISO 20743
• CNS 14945 & 14946
• ASTM E2149
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 9 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Antibacterial Testing
How is the qualitative AATCC 147 conducted?
• This standard is widely used in commercial applications
• The test results are dependent on fabric structure
• Commercial requirement: No growth of microbes
• “Clear zone” is for observation, not to determine the “effectiveness” by it
Inhibition of growth beneath the specimen and a “clear
zone” are observed beyond its
edge.
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 10 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Anti-mold Testing
For products with anti-mold properties
Why does mold happen?
• Mold is a fungal micro-organism that grows in favorable
environments
Why is mold a problem?
• For consumers, outdoor products might be exposed to mold
fungus in the wild and mold grows fast in the home environment
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 11 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Anti-mold Testing
How is anti-mold function tested?
• Standards include:
• AATCC 30 III (most used)
• ASTM G21 (most used)
• JIS Z2911
• CNS 2690
• EN 14119 B2
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 12 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Anti-mold Testing
How is the AATCC 30 III test conducted?
• This test method is mostly used for textile products
• Growth of microbes on agar plate is observed for 2 weeks
• Commercial requirement: No growth
Observed results:
• No growth (with clear zone)
• Microscopic growth
• Macroscopic growth
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 13 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Anti-mold Testing
How is the ASTM G21 test conducted?
• This test method is mostly used for plastic materials and synthetic
leather
• Growth of microbes on specimen is observed for 4 weeks.
• Commercial requirement:
Strictest: Rating 0 (No growth) / Stricter: Not less than Rating 1
Result rating:
0 – None (no growth)
1 – Traces of growth (less than 10%)
2 – Light growth (10% - 30%)
3 – Medium growth (30% - 60%)
4 – Heavy growth (60% or above)
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 14 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Antibacterial & Anti-mold Testing
Durability & Wash Procedure
• To better stimulate real use of garments, repeated washes
are highly recommended before anti-bacterial and anti-mold
testing
• Common wash methods:
• Home laundering e.g. AATCC 135, ISO 6330
• 20 or 25 wash cycles
• In general, durability of in-fiber treatment is better than that
of after-treatment
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 15 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Windproof
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 16 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Windproof Testing
For products with windproof properties
How do we determine windproof property of fabric?
• Windproof property of a fabric is rated by its air permeability
• The rate of air flow passing perpendicularly through a known area
of fabric is adjusted to obtain a prescribed air pressure differential
between the two fabric surfaces
• From this rate of air flow, the air permeability of the fabric is
determined
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 17 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Windproof Testing
How do we test air permeability?
• Standards include:
• ASTM D737
• ISO 9237
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 18 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Windproof Testing
What is the result determination?
• Low air permeability is regarded as providing good windproofing
• High air permeability is regarded as providing poor windproofing
• Commercial requirement:
• ≤ 0 cfm (for windproof)
• < 3 cfm (for outdoor)
• < 15 cfm (for casual wear)
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 19 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Water Resistance & Breathability
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 20 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Water Resistance & Breathability Testing
Why is breathability a concern?
• Breathability refers to transfer of sweat from the human body into
the air through textiles
• The more breathable the fabric is, the more comfortable the
wearer would be
• Breathability is often tested together with water resistance as
consumers want garments to be comfortable
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 21 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Water Resistance & Breathability Testing
How are water resistant and breathability properties achieved?
• By weaving
• High Density Fabric with microfiber
• By finishing
• Lamination
• Coating
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 22 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Water Resistance & Breathability Testing
How is water resistance testing conducted?
• Standards include:
• AATCC 127
• EN 20811 (ISO 811)
• BS 5066, etc.
• In general, the sample is clamped to the specimen stand
with water pressure added, in the form of direct contact or
shower spray; water that appears or held at the fabric is
measured for result assessment
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 23 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Water Resistance & Breathability Testing
How is breathability determined?
• It is measured by:
• Water Vapor Permeability (WVP): refers to the evaporation
of sweat into air via textiles, plus
• Water vapor resistance (Ret): is the difficulty of water vapor
passing through fabric
• The higher the WVP but lower water vapor resistance, the more
breathable the garment is and thus more comfortable to wearer
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 24 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Water Resistance & Breathability Testing
How do we test water vapor permeability?
• Standards include:
• ASTM E96
• JIS 1099
• BS 7209
How do we test water vapor resistance?
• Standards include:
• ASTM F1868
• ISO 11092 (EN31092)
• JIS L1099
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 25 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Requirements for Water Resistance & Breathability
Test Method Common Requirements
Water Resistance
EN 20811 (ISO 811)
General: 800 mm min.
Water resistance: 1,500mm min.
Waterproof: 3,000 mm min.
Ski jacket: over 10,000 mm
Breathability
Water Vapor Permeability, WVP( ASTM E 96, JIS L1099…)
• General outdoor cloth ≥ 800 g/m2/24 hours
• Windproof and breathable item: 2,000 g/m2/24 hours
• Water resistance and breathable item: 3,000 g/m2/24 hours
• Storm resistance and breathable: 5,000 g/m2/24 hours
• Ski jacket: over 8,000 or 10,000 g/m2/24 hours
Water Vapor Resistance, Ret (ISO 11092, EN 31092…)
• Water resistance and breathable jacket: 6 ≤ Ret < 13
• Ski jacket : 13 ≤ Ret < 27
• Fishing jacket, wind coat and rain coat : 27 ≤ Ret < 40
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 26 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Water Repellency
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 27 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Water Repellency Testing
For products with water repellent properties
What is water repellency?
• It refers to the resistance of outdoor apparel to surface wetting
• Repellency is most commonly used for “water proof” outerwear
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 28 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Water Repellency Testing
How is water repellency achieved?
• By surface treatment to create the “Lotus effect”
• Lower the “surface tension” of fabric
• Water droplets cohesive and “spray out” by gravity
• The way to achieve it
• by compactly, wax or silicon coating
• Coating by hydrophobic chemicals: fluoropolymer based
• Good water repellency
• But controversial with “sustainability concerns” due
to potential hazard
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 29 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Water Repellency Testing
How is the water repellency test conducted?
• Standards include:
• EN ISO 4920
• AATCC 22
• The sample is placed in a specimen holder at 45° with water poured into a
funnel suspended above the specimen. The funnel allows constant and
stable spray of water on the samples. Samples are assessed after a fixed
time spraying and tapping.
• Commercial requirement:
EN ISO 4920 AATCC 22
Initial Grade 4 or above 90 min.
After wash Grade 3 or above 70 min.
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 30 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Quick Dry
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 31 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Quick Dry
For products with quick dry properties
What is quick dry?
• Quick dry consists of three moisture management functions:
• Absorbency
• Wicking
• Drying rate
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 32 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
How does quick dry work?
Drying Rate:
Evaporation of
moisture into air
Wicking: moisture is
wicked and siphoned
away from the body
Absorbency: Drawing
moisture to outside to
keep the skin dry
Quick Dry
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 33 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
How are quick dry properties achieved?
By Fiber
• Surface modification
• Specialized shape in cross-
section
• Microfiber
By Yarn
• Multi-component
• Textured
• Combination
Quick Dry
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 34 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
How are quick dry properties achieved?
By Fabric
• Double layered
• Density & weight lower
By Finish
• Hydrophilic
Quick Dry
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 35 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
How do we test quick dry?
Absorbency Wicking Drying Rate
Absorbency Test
AATCC 79
JIS L1907
Wicking Test
AATCC 197
JIS L1907
Drying Time Test
AATCC 199
AATCC 201
JIS L 1096
Quick Dry Testing
Moisture Management Test
AATCC 195
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 36 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Requirements for Quick Dry
Test Method Common Requirement
Absorbency Test Knit ≤2 seconds; Woven ≤ 5 seconds
Wicking Test
Vertical wicking
Casual wear: ≥ 12.0cm after 30 minutes;
Sportswear: ≥ 15.0 cm after 30 minutes
Flat wicking
Knit: ≥ 900 mm2; Woven: ≥ 1300 mm2
Evaporation Test /
Drying Time /
Drying Rate
AATCC 201, 0.2ml
< 15 minutes
AATCC 199 (0.5ml water applied to)
Initial: ≥ 70% water evaporated after 30 minutes;
After washing: ≥ 60% water evaporated after 30 minutes
Moisture Management Test One-way Transport Capability (R) ≥ 200 or
Overall Moisture Management Capability (OMMC) ≥ 0.6
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 37 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Ultraviolet Protection
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 38 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
UV Protection Testing
For products with UV protection properties
What is UV protection?
• We use UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) to measure the
UV protection capability of fabric/garments
• UPF measures the protection of both UVA and UVB
• Additional info: SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is used for
cosmetics applied on skin directly
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 39 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
UV Protection Testing
Why do we need UV protection?
UVC (200-290 nm) • Deadly to humans • Blocked by ozone layer
UVB (290-315 nm) • Causes sunburn,
premature skin aging and potential for skin cancer
• Less 5% reaches earth
UVA (315-400 nm) • Causes premature skin
aging, wrinkling and potential for skin cancer
• Deeper penetration than UVB
• More than 95% reaches earth
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 40 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
UV Protection Testing
How do we achieve good UV protection with fabric?
• Fabric construction
• High density
• Dyeing process
• Darker in colorways
• Finishing
• Anti-UV Finishing
• with TiO2 in fibers
• Anti-UV coating
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 41 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
UV Protection Testing
How is the UV protection test conducted?
• Standards include
• AS/NZS 4399
• AATCC 183
• ASTM D6603
• BS EN 13758-2
• GB/T 18830
• And more …
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 42 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Stretch & Recovery
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 43 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Stretch & Recovery
For products with stretch & recovery properties
What is stretch & recovery?
• Stretch (elongation): fabric can be extended in one direction with
force applied to without (before) breaking
• Two-way stretch: extended in the crosswise direction
• Four-way stretch: extended in both directions, crosswise and
lengthwise
• Recovery: fabric can go back to its original size after stretching
• Growth: fabric cannot go back to its original size after stretching
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 44 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Stretch & Recovery
How do we achieve fabric with superior stretch & recovery?
• Special fibers weaving or knitting into the fabric construction
• Textured yarn
• Elastic fibers, such as
• Rubber
• Spandex
• Lycra or T400
• Sensitive to washing/drying temperature
• Use caution with bleach: elastic fiber may be damaged by Chlorine
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 45 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Stretch & Recovery
What do we test to determine stretch capability?
Stretch/Elongation
• The difference in length between
the original and under tension
• Stretch(%)=(Ls-Lo)/Lo x100% Ls
Lo
After
Cycling
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 46 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Stretch & Recovery
How about recovery & growth testing?
• Growth
• The difference in length between the original
and after cycling tension removal
• Growth(%)=(Lg-Lo)/Lo x 100%
• Recovery
• The ratio between “stretch length” and
“growth”
• Recovery(%)=(Le-Lg)/(Le-Lo) x 100%
Le : the “stretch length” at specified stretch percentage
Le
Lo Lg
Specified
stretch &
period
growth
recovery
growth
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 47 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Stretch & Recovery
How is the stretch & recovery test conducted?
• Standards and commercial requirements
• ASTM D 3107 (4 lbs loading)
• Growth: 7% max (elastomeric < 5%)
• Growth: 5% max (elastomeric > 5%)
• ASTM D 2594 (10 lbs loading)
• Recovery: 85% Minimum/30 Minutes
Performance
> 5% elastomeric
fiber
Comfort
< 5% elastomeric
fiber
Mechanical
Contain no
elastomeric yarn
Initial Stretch,
immediate
20% min –
50% max
15% min –
30% max
10% min –
15% max
Residual Growth,
30 min. (max) 5% max 7% max 7% max
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 48 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Thermal Regulation
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 49 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Thermal Regulation Testing
For products with thermal claim properties
What is thermal regulation?
• Warm-weather fabrics
• Instant cool feeling fabric
• Moisture absorption cooling fabrics
• Cold-weather fabrics
• Moisture absorption exothermic fabrics
• Thermal retention
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 50 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Thermal Regulation Testing
How is cooling property achieved?
• Fabric with cooling property allows you to feel cool when touching
• Such cooling fabric can be made by:
• Extruding the filament with high heat capacity material
• Applying hydrophilic fibers with high moisture liberation
• Modified cross-section fibers with high sweat transportation
• Excellent fabric structure to facilitate heat transportation
• Applying fibers with sugar alcohol that can
create endothermic reaction when
absorbing sweat (H2O).
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 51 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Thermal Regulation Testing
How is cooling property tested?
Test Method (Qmax test – KES-F7 )
• FTTS-FA-019 (Qmax test)
• CNS 15687, L3237
Test Procedure
• Set the Top-plate to 35oC and the
Water-Box to 25oC
• Put sample on the Base-plate until
the temperature of sample reaches
25oC
• Let the Top-plate contact the sample
• Measure the value of Qmax
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 52 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Thermal Regulation Testing
What are the industrial standards for cooling?
Qmax
• Indicate the maximum heat loss for textile
• Unit: W/cm2
• Higher Qmax means more significant feeling of coolness
• Industrial recommendation (By FTTS-FA-019 )
– For Knit: ≥ 0.130 (W/cm2)
– For Woven: ≥ 0.170 (W/cm2)
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 53 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Thermal Regulation Testing
How is cooling property tested?
Temperature difference (In-house test method)
• Apply 0.2ml water onto the fabric surface
• Both finished and unfinished fabrics tested at same time
• Record the surface temperature of fabric at 35°C for 30 minutes
Temp (℃)
Time
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 54 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Thermal Regulation Testing
How do we achieve warming?
• Moisture absorbing exothermic fabrics can be used
• These are passive warmth-retention materials
• When a human sweats, the fibers will absorb the moisture and release
heat to elevate the temperature
• Such property can be achieved by:
• Applying high moisture regain e.g. Acrylate,
Rayon, etc.
• Using specific fiber with high moisture
absorbing exothermicity
• Working on fabric structure design
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 55 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Thermal Regulation Testing
How do we test moisture absorbing exothermic fabrics?
• The GB/T 29866 standard is applied
• Intertek In-house test method
• Tested at 20°C, raise the humidity from 40% to 90%, for 30
minutes
• Commercial requirement:
• +2°C
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 56 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Thermal Regulation Testing
How do we achieve thermal retention?
• When it is cold, we wear more layers to keep warm, using light-weight
garments on our bodies
• Garments that are light but warm can be made by:
• Materials with high thermal resistance
• Hollow fibers
• Fabric structure with high air-retention rate
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 57 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Thermal Regulation Testing
How are thermal retention fabrics tested?
• Standards include:
• ASTM D1518
• ASTM F1868
• ISO 11092
• CNS 15102
• GB/T 11048
www.intertek.com © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
www.intertek.com 58 © Intertek 2016. All rights reserved.
Thank You!
Questions?
Rajath Kumar
Director
650-463-2956