AC MOISTURE-PLEX ADVANCED PF - Active Concepts, LLC … · • Cold temperatures, humidity changes, wind in addition to cosmetic and personal care products can dry out the skin •

AC MOISTURE-PLEX ADVANCED PFHyaluronic Acid Alternative + Potent Moisturizer + Improves Barrier Integrity

AC MOISTURE-PLEX ADVANCED PF

Technical Information:

Product Code: 16503PF

INCI Name: Glycerin & Water & Sodium PCA & Urea & Trehalose & Polyquaternium-51 & Sodium Hyaluronate

INCI Status: Conforms

Suggested Use Levels: 1.0 – 10.0%

Suggested Applications: Moisturizer, Barrier Formation, Hyaluronic Acid Alternative

Solubility: Water Soluble

Optimally Functioning Skin

• The epidermis is part of our innate immune system and serves as the body’s primary defence mechanism against the environment

• Skin needs to protect us from UV damage, free radicals and hazardous microorganisms

• Must provide barrier protection from chemicals and liquids

• Skin’s ability to function against environmental stress diminishes if it is not properly hydrated

EPIDERMAL DEFENSE + HYDRATION

Ways skin becomes irritated, dry & damaged?

• Cold temperatures, humidity changes, wind in addition to cosmetic and personal care products can dry out the skin

• Soap, facial cleanser and toners are skin dehydrating culprits

• Many moisturizers contain alcohol which ironically dries the skin!

DRY SKIN + DIMINISHED FUNCTION

Epidermis

• Consists of several layers with the outermost layers being keratinized cells help together by epidermal lipids

• Sebum is secreted on the surface layer to provide moisturizing benefits

• Dry skin is caused by the stripping away of the surface sebum layer • Integrity of the epidermal lipids becomes less substantive• Keratinized cells separate• Result is Red + Itchy + Inflamed + Cracked Skin

EPIDERMIS LAYERS + ROLE IN SKIN FUNCTION

Protecting the Skin

• AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF was formulated to address skin issues by:

Improving the skin’s barrier integrity Reducing surface evaporation Improving moisture levels on the skin

Regulating moisture and lipid balance

Increasing cellular renewal


AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF

• Contains a complex of glycerine, sodium PCA, urea, plyquaternium-51 and sodium hyaluronate

• Glycerin: Hydroscopic + Humectant • Helps hydrate skin and prevent lipid damage

• Sodium PCA: Hydroscopic• Helps skin stay moist• More hygroscopic than glycerine or sorbitol

• Urea: Moisturizing (NMF) + Exfoliant• Capable of binding water in the strum corneum to prevent water loss• Component of the body’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF)• Functions to smooth and soften skin

SKIN PROTECTION + INGREDIENTS

AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF

• Polyquaternium-51: Hydroscopic + Moisture Retainer• Stabilized epidermal phospholipids while significantly improving

moisture retention

• Sodium Hyaluronate: Cellular Repair + Cellular Renewal• Minimizes cracking and damage• Hyaluronic acid is known to minimize formation of scar tissue

• Trehalose: Osmo-Regulation + Protectant• Glucose disaccharide• Topical application may improve barrier function• Possibly prevent heat shock

SKIN PROTECTION + INGREDIENTS

In-vivo Moisturization Assay

Protocol

• Assay was conducted to determine the effectiveness of AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF at increasing barrier function and improving moisture levels on the skin

• 7 panelists applied the control lotion (CetaphilMoisturizing Lotion) and 3.0% AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF in the base lotion to the respective skin patches on their volar forearms

• Measurements were taken after 2 and 4 hours

AC MOISTURE-PLEX ADVANCED PF EFFICACY DATA

65

110

48

95

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

Control 3% AC Moisture-Plex AdvancedPF

Perc

ent (

%) I

ncre

ase

2 Hours 4 HoursFigure 1. Improvements in moisturization following application of 3% AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF after a 4 hour period.

In-vivo 72 Hour Moisture Variation Assay

Protocol

• Assay was conducted to determine the effectiveness of AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF at increasing barrier function and improving moisture levels on the skin over time

• 11 panelists applied the control lotion (Cetaphil Moisturizing Lotion) and 5.0% AC Moisture-PlexAdvanced PF in the base lotion to the respective skin patches on their volar forearms

• Measurements were taken after 1, 2, 4, 6, 24, 48, and 72 hours


-5

1219 23

-4 -8 -2

44

66

8075

25

12

27

-10

10

30

50

70

90

1 2 4 6 24 48 72

Perc

ent (

%) V

aria

tion

Time (Hours)

Control 5% AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF

Figure 2. Improvements in moisturization following application of 3% AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF during a 72 hour period.

In-vivo Moisturization Comparison

Protocol

• Assay was conducted to determine the effectiveness of AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF at increasing barrier function and improving moisture levels on the skin in comparison to Hyaluronic Acid

• 9 panelists applied the control lotion (Cetaphil Moisturizing Lotion), 5.0% AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF in the base lotion, 0.2% Hyaluronic Acid and 0.1% Hyaluronic Acid to the respective skin patches on their volar forearms

• Measurements were taken at 30 minutes and again at 2, 4, 6, and 8 hours respectively


0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

30 Min 2 Hours 4 Hours 6 Hours 8 Hours

Perc

ent (

%) V

aria

tion

5 % AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF 0.2% Hyaluronic Acid

0.1% Hyaluronic Acid Vehicle

Figure 3. Variation in moisturization using AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF against Hyaluronic Acid.

TEWL Assay

Protocol• Equipment: DermaLab Combo

• Principle of measurement: Open Chamber, vapor diffusion gradient

• Subjects: 10 (m/f)

• Test area: Volar forearms

• Concentration of active used: 2.0%

• Frequency of application: Twice Daily


0.00

0.50

1.00

1.50

2.00

2.50

3.00

3.50

4.00

T = 0 T = 1 Week T = 2 Weeks T = 3 Weeks T = 4 Weeks

Ope

n Ch

ambe

r Wat

er L

evel

s

Experimental (2.0% ACMoisture-Plex Advanced PFin Base Lotion)

Base Lotion

Untreated

Figure 4. TEWL measurements taken at individual test sites.

TEWL Assay

Protocol• Equipment: DermaLab Combo

• Principle of measurement: Open Chamber, vapor diffusion gradient

• Subjects: 10 (m/f)

• Test area: Volar forearms

• Concentration of active used: 2.0%


-70.00%

-60.00%

-50.00%

-40.00%

-30.00%

-20.00%

-10.00%

0.00%Base Lotion vs. Untreated Experimental (2.0% AC

Moisture-Plex Advanced PF inBase Lotion) vs. Untreated

Experimental (2.0% ACMoisture-Plex Advanced PF inBase Lotion) vs. Base Lotion

Per

cent

(%

) D

iffe

renc

e

T = 0

T = 4 Weeks

Figure 5. Comparison of percent reduction in water loss over time between two test sites.

High Resolution Ultrasound Skin Imaging

Protocol• Equipment: DermaLab Skin Combo

• 10 volunteers M/F between the ages of 23 and 45

• Determine the skin density of the subject’s volar forearms

• Apply 2 mg of each test material on their volar forearms

• Concentration: 2%

• Skin density was improved by 19.53% after one week and by 27.21% after 4 weeks when compared to the untreated control


-10.00%

-5.00%

0.00%

5.00%

10.00%

15.00%

20.00%

25.00%

30.00%

35.00%


Perc

ent (

%) D

iffer

ence

Base Lotion vs.Untreated

Experimental(2.0% ACMoisture-PlexAdvanced PF inBase Lotion) vs.Untreated

Figure 9. Ultrasound Results Comparing Test Sites to Untreated Site.

High Resolution Ultrasound Skin Imaging

Protocol• Equipment: DermaLab Skin Combo

• 10 volunteers M/F between the ages of 23 and 45

• Determine the skin density of the subject’s volar forearms

• Apply 2 mg of each test material on their volar forearms

• Concentration: 2%

• AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF improved skin density during each week of the trial, working 11.56% better than the base lotion after two weeks and 10.80% better than the base lotion after four weeks


-15.00%

-10.00%

-5.00%

0.00%

5.00%

10.00%

15.00%


Perc

ent (

%) D

iffer

ence

Figure 10. Ultrasound Results Comparing the Difference between the Test Site and the Control Site.

Change in Conductance After 24 Hours

Protocol• Environment was kept at a constant

temperature of 21°C and 19% Relative Humidity (RH)

• Measured on the skin of 6 volunteers before and after 24 hours

• The most effective level of AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF after 24 hours is the 5.0% use level


0

5

10

15

20

25

30

1.0% AC Moisture-PlexAdvanced PF



Perc

ent (

%) I

ncre

ase

Figure 11. Change in conductance due to increase in moisture from AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF and the effects after 24 hours.

Scratch Assay Analysis

Protocol• Human dermal fibroblasts

were allowed to grow to confluency in complete DMEM

• 1.0% AC Moisture-PlexAdvanced PF was added to the serum free DMEM & incubated with fibroblasts

• The confluent cells were scratched

• Cells were stained for enhanced microscopy


0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

1.4

1.6

1.8

2

T=0 T=24 Hours T=48 Hours T=72 Hours

Scra

tch

Area

(mm

2 )

Time Post Scratch

100ng/mL EGF

Complete Media

Serum-Free Media

16503PF ACMoisture-PlexAdvanced PF

Figure 12. Area of scratch.


Protocol• Human dermal fibroblasts were

allowed to grow to confluency in complete DMEM

• 1.0% AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF was added to the serum free DMEM & incubated with fibroblasts




Figure 13. Percent scratch closure.

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100

T=24 Hours T=48 Hours T=72 Hours

Perc

ent (

%) C

losu

re

Time Post Scratch

100ng/mL EGF

Complete Media

Serum-Free Media

16503PF AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF








Figure 14. Cell migration rate.

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

T=24 Hours T=48 Hours T=72 Hours

Mig

ratio

n (µ

m/2

4 ho

urs)

Time Post Scratch

100ng/mL EGF

Complete Media

Serum-Free Media

16503PF ACMoisture-PlexAdvanced PF








Figure 15. Images at t=0 hours (A, D, G) and t=72 hours (B, E, H) for AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF,positive control (EGF-1), and negative control (SFM). At experiment completion (t=72 hours), cells werefixed in paraformaldehyde and stained with crystal violet (C, F, I).

ORAC Assay

Protocol• Trolox® is used as the positive control

• Solutions were prepared at two concentrations for a reference

• Fluorescent measurements were taken every 2 minutes for 2 hours

• AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PFexhibited antioxidant activity comparable to 200µM Trolox®


197

12

153

20

50

100

150

200

250

200µM Trolox® 12.5µM Trolox® 0.5% 16503 ACMoisture-Plex

Advanced

0.1% 16503 ACMoisture-Plex

Advanced

Antio

xida

nt C

apac

ity (µ

MTE

)

Figure 6. Antioxidant capacities.

Cellular Viability

Protocol• Human dermal fibroblasts were seeded

into 96-well tissue culture plates

• Concentrations: 0.1%, 0.01%

• Ten microliters of viability reagent was added to 90µL of cell culture media in culture wells and a fluorometric measurement was taken at 560nm for excitation and 590nm for emission

• AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF had positive effects on cell metabolism at lower concentrations and slightly negative effects on metabolism at higher concentrations


-30%

-20%

-10%

0%

10%

20%

30%

0

20000

40000

60000

80000

100000

Complete Media 0.1% 16503PF ACMoisture-Plex Advanced

0.01% 16503PF ACMoisture-Plex Advanced

MFU

MFU

% Change

Figure 16. Cellular Metabolism of AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF-treated fibroblasts expressed in terms of percent of control.

Comparison to Hyaluronic Acid

Protocol• Measured the moisture levels of 9

volunteers before and after

• A solution of 5.0% AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF, 0.2% Hyaluronic Acid, 0.1% Hyaluronic Acid, and a control vehicle on the forearm

• Measurements were taken at 30 minutes, 2 hours, 4 hours, 6 hours, and 8 hours


Figure 17. Comparative increase in skin moisturization over time when using AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF vs. Hyaluronic Acid.

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

30 Minutes 2 Hours 4 Hours 6 Hours 8 Hours

Perc

ent (

%) I

ncre

ase

5.0% AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF 0.2% Hyaluronic Acid 0.1% Hyaluronic Acid Unloaded Vehicle

IL-6 ELISA Analysis

Protocol• Human dermal fibroblasts were seeded into

12-well tissue culture plates

• Concentrations: 1%, 0.2%, 0.01%

• AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF were added to complete DMEM containing 1µg/mL LPS and incubated with fibroblasts for 24 hours

• AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF, at all concentrations was able to decrease IL-6 production compared to our positive control


2279.25

2500.21 2549.76 2599.40

1423.38

0

500

1000

1500

2000

2500

3000

1%16503PF AC

MoisturePlexAdvanced

0.1%16503PF AC

Moisture-PlexAdvanced PF

0.01% 16503PFAC Moisture-

Plex AdvancedPF

Positive Control Negative Control

IL-6

Con

cent

ratio

n (p

g/m

L)

Figure 18. AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF-treated fibroblasts IL-6 concentrations.

IL-6 ELISA Analysis

Protocol• Human dermal fibroblasts were seeded

into 12-well tissue culture plates

• Concentrations: 1%, 0.2%, 0.01%

• AC Moisture-Plex Advanced PF were added to complete DMEM containing 1µg/mL LPS and incubated with fibroblasts for 24 hours

• This decrease in IL-6 production indicates a reduced inflammatory environment which could decrease the signs of aging and reduce the formation of fine lines and wrinkles


Figure 19. Percent decrease in IL-6 production compared to positive control.

1% 16503PF ACMoisture-Plex Advanced

PF


PF


PFSeries1 12.32 3.82 1.91

0.00

2.00

4.00

6.00

8.00

10.00

12.00

14.00

% D

ecre

ase

Additional Data:

• Dermal and Ocular Irritation Test: Non-Irritating

AC MOISTURE-PLEX ADVANCED PF SAFETY DATA


Technical Information:

Product Code: 16503PF

INCI Name: Glycerin & Water & Sodium PCA & Urea & Trehalose & Polyquaternium-51 & Sodium Hyaluronate

INCI Status: Conforms

Suggested Use Levels: 1.0 – 10.0%

Suggested Applications: Moisturizer, Barrier Formation, Hyaluronic Acid Alternative

Solubility: Water Soluble

ACTIVE CONCEPTS LLC

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Documents

AC MOISTURE-PLEX ADVANCED PF - Active Concepts, LLC … · • Cold temperatures, humidity changes, wind in addition to cosmetic and personal care products can dry out the skin •