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    Architectural Association School of Architectureis collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to AA

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    FINLAND'S IRON WORKING HERITAGEAuthor(s): J. M. RichardsSource: AA Files, No. 12 (Summer 1986), pp. 41-45Published by: Architectural Association School of ArchitectureStable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/29543516Accessed: 19-08-2014 20:29 UTC

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    FINLAND S

    IRONWORKING

    HERITAGE

    J.

    M. Richards

    /.

    Aerial

    view

    of

    the

    iron-working

    estate

    at

    Mttstio.

    The

    production

    of

    iron in

    Finland,

    which

    began

    on

    an

    industrial

    scale

    early

    in the seventeenth

    century,

    flourished

    especially

    in

    the

    eighteenth

    when

    over

    fifty

    ronworks

    were

    established

    in

    rural

    areas.

    They

    took the form of self-contained

    estates,

    each

    equipped

    with

    a

    central

    building

    which

    was

    also the

    home

    of

    the

    ironmaster,

    various industrial

    buildings

    such

    as

    hammer

    mills, foundries and blast-furnaces, and aworkers village. The last,

    basically

    a

    street

    of

    one-storey

    houses,

    also had

    a

    church,

    a

    school

    and

    in

    some

    instances

    a

    village shop.

    There

    was

    usually

    a

    small farm

    serving

    the needs of the

    village.

    The

    most

    important

    ironworking

    estates

    were

    sited

    in

    the

    extreme

    south-west

    of Finland

    in

    the

    province

    ofUusimaa. Several

    survive in

    a

    fairly complete

    form and

    provide

    a

    revealing

    illustration of the social

    history

    of their time and of

    the characteristic

    landscapes they

    created.

    A

    few,

    for

    example

    those

    at

    Fiskars and

    Billn?s,

    near

    the

    sea-coast

    on

    either side of the road fromHelsinki

    to

    Hanko,

    still

    produce

    iron.

    One of

    the

    most

    accessible,

    at

    Fagervik

    close

    by, right

    on

    the

    coast,

    still

    with

    its

    village,

    its

    hurch and

    its

    great

    house,

    is

    now

    the

    centre

    of

    a

    flourishing agricultural

    estate.

    In

    others

    the houses that

    lay

    at

    their

    centre

    survive

    as

    country

    residences

    or

    the

    headquarters

    of

    industrial

    or

    agricultural

    enterprises.

    Most

    of the

    estates

    were

    sited

    in

    forested

    country

    for the

    sake of

    the

    charcoal

    required

    for their

    furnaces,

    and close

    to

    fast-running

    water,

    the

    source

    of their

    energy.

    They

    were

    within reach of the

    coast

    because the

    iron-ore

    they

    used

    was

    transported by

    sea

    from

    Sweden.

    In

    earlier centuries

    small

    quantities

    of iron

    for

    domestic

    use

    had been

    manufactured from local

    ore,

    obtained from lakes

    or

    wetlands,

    but

    this activitywas superseded by thediscovery in the seventeenth cen?

    tury

    of

    vast ore

    deposits

    in

    Sweden

    and

    by

    the

    development

    of

    the blast-furnace.

    By

    the end of that

    century

    Sweden

    was

    the

    biggest

    producer

    of iron in

    Europe.

    The first ndustrial

    plant

    of

    any

    kind inFinland

    was

    the ironworks

    at

    Mustio

    on

    the

    Karjaa

    river,

    in

    the

    same

    south-western

    area as

    the

    three

    somewhat later

    estates

    already

    named and

    at

    a

    point

    where three

    sets

    of

    rapids

    furnished

    exceptional

    water-power.

    The

    Mustio works

    were

    founded

    in 1618

    by

    a

    decree of

    King

    Gustavus

    11

    Adolphus

    of

    Sweden,

    but

    they

    soon

    passed

    from

    royal ownership

    into the hands of

    successive

    merchants from

    Turku,

    the Finnish

    capital,

    and

    it

    was

    in

    their time that iron-ore

    began

    to

    be

    shipped

    from

    Sweden

    and the fin?

    ished

    products exported

    there.The works thereafter

    steadily expanded

    to

    become

    a

    large

    estate

    (Fig.

    1).

    hey

    had their

    ups

    and downs

    ?

    for

    example

    a

    shortage

    of

    charcoal

    which

    caused

    the

    blast-furnace

    to

    be

    AA

    Hl.KS

    12

    41

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    2.

    The

    central

    building

    t

    Mustioy

    1783,

    by

    .F.Schr?derandErik

    Palmstedt.

    closed

    temporarily

    in

    1698

    but

    they

    flourished

    especially

    under the

    ownership

    of the Linder

    family

    from

    the

    mid-eighteenth

    century

    until the

    production

    of bar-iron

    came to

    an

    end

    in

    1900.

    Itwas Magnus Linder who in 1783commissioned the pedimented

    central

    building

    (Fig.

    2)

    which

    still

    stands.

    It

    is

    an

    indication

    of

    the

    important place

    that the iron

    industry

    held

    in

    the Finnish

    economy

    that

    at

    this

    time

    leading

    architects

    were

    engaged

    to

    design

    itsbuild?

    ings.

    The central

    building

    at

    Mustio

    was

    by

    Christoffer

    Friedrich

    Schr?der,

    a

    German-born architect who

    practised

    in

    Turku,

    and

    it

    was

    remodelled

    soon

    afterwards

    by

    Erik

    Palmstedt,

    city

    architect

    of

    Stockholm.

    It

    is

    built

    all

    of

    timber and

    was

    one

    of

    the handsomest

    residences

    in the

    country,

    with

    a

    long

    pilastered

    facade

    and rich

    interior

    furnishings.

    In

    the

    great

    salon

    are

    wall-paintings

    ofRoman

    scenes

    by

    Louis

    Jean

    Desprez

    which

    commemorate

    a

    visit

    by

    King

    Gustavus.

    Desprez,

    as well as

    being

    the

    king s

    architect,

    was his

    appointed

    stage-painter.

    The central

    building

    at

    Mustio

    is

    enclosed

    by

    the

    curve

    of

    the river.

    Nearby

    are

    stables and other outhouses

    and

    a

    slender

    bridge.

    To

    the

    west

    are

    a

    Gothic-style gatehouse

    and

    a

    church

    of

    1757.

    In

    this

    instance

    there

    are

    only

    slight

    remains

    of

    the

    original

    industrial

    buildings

    and of theworkers

    housing

    laid

    out

    in

    the

    early

    nineteenth

    century.

    The other

    buildings

    seen

    in

    the aerial

    photograph

    were

    added

    later

    by

    the industrial

    company

    which

    now owns

    the

    whole

    estate.

    Mustio

    was

    too

    far from the

    sea

    to

    be ideal for

    the

    necessary

    com?

    munication with Sweden, and later in the seventeenth century three

    important

    ironworks

    surrounded

    by

    similar

    estates

    were

    established

    a

    little further

    south.

    These

    were

    the

    estates

    of

    Billn?s,

    Fiskars

    and

    Fagervik

    already

    referred

    to.

    The founder of all three

    was

    the

    German-Swedish merchant Carl

    Billsten,

    who

    was

    responsible

    for

    a

    considerable

    expansion

    of the

    ironmaking industry, especially

    in

    the

    i68os

    when

    government

    help

    was

    offered

    to

    develop

    it.As

    a

    result,

    by

    the

    beginning

    of

    the

    eighteenth

    century

    there

    were

    fifteen ironworks

    in Finland, eight of which incorporated blast-furnaces. Annual

    production

    was

    only

    about

    a

    thousand

    tons

    ?

    small

    compared

    with

    Sweden s

    production

    ?

    but it

    established

    Finland

    as an

    industrial

    country.

    After

    being temporarily eclipsed during

    the Swedish

    King

    Charles

    xn s

    wars

    against

    Russia,

    several of

    its

    installations

    including

    those

    at

    Fagervik being

    destroyed

    in

    the

    fighting,

    the

    ironworking industry

    continued

    to

    expand, again

    with the

    help

    of

    prominent

    Swedish

    merchants.

    Among

    these

    were

    the brothers

    Hising

    ?

    Johan

    Wilhelm

    and Michael

    ?

    who in

    1723

    acquired

    the Billn?s and

    Fagervik

    works

    from the Billsten

    family, together

    with

    a

    blast-furnace

    on

    the

    sea-coast

    at

    Skogby

    which theBillstens had built in 1686.This isone of the few

    old

    blast-furnaces

    operating

    in

    Finland

    today.

    Fagervik

    had

    an

    ideal

    situation,

    near

    the

    sea

    and

    on a

    fast-running

    river.

    Under

    the

    management

    of Michael

    Hising s

    son

    Johan,

    who

    took

    over

    in

    1758,

    the works entered their

    period

    of

    greatest

    pros?

    perity.

    The blast-furnace

    was

    rebuilt and

    new

    types

    of hammer

    installed,

    and

    in

    1780

    a

    brick-built

    tin-plating workshop

    was

    added.

    This is

    one

    of

    a

    number of old

    buildings

    still

    surviving

    at

    Fagervik.

    It

    was

    Johan

    Hising,

    too,

    who built themain

    building

    (Fig.

    3),

    forwhich

    again

    the architect

    was

    Schr?der of

    Turku. The

    two-storey

    buildings

    flanking the approach to themain block, one righton the lake shore,

    were

    constructed

    first,

    n

    1762;

    then the

    three-storey

    main

    block

    with

    itscentral

    pediment

    in

    1772.

    As

    at

    Mustio,

    there is

    a

    Gustavus

    m

    room

    in

    which the

    king stayed overnight

    in

    1775;

    also

    a

    Chinese cabinet and

    a

    library.

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    3.

    The central

    building

    t

    Fagervik,

    1772,

    y

    C.

    F.

    Schr?der.

    4.

    left:

    The church

    nd

    bell-tower

    (1737,

    by

    .F.Schultz)

    t

    Fagervik,

    with the entral

    buildingbeyond,

    ight:

    The

    bell-tower

    eside the ake.

    43

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    5.

    Billn?s: The

    street

    of

    ironworkers houses.

    6.

    Fiskars: tahle

    building

    of1826.

    It

    was

    at

    this time

    that the Finnish

    ironworks

    began

    their

    trans?

    formation

    into

    large

    landed

    estates

    with

    spacious parks

    surrounding

    the lakes that

    were

    created

    by

    damming

    to

    ensure

    for each

    its

    necessary

    head of

    water.

    Johan

    Hising regarded

    himself

    as

    a

    landed

    proprietor

    as

    well

    as an

    industrialist,

    and

    at

    Fagervik

    he laid

    out

    gardens

    and

    planted specimens

    of

    rare

    trees.

    He

    built

    a

    vinery

    and

    hothouses

    in

    which he

    grew

    lemons and

    oranges.

    He

    extended the

    existing

    woodlands

    to

    form

    a

    fashionably

    romantic

    landscape.

    Among

    thewoods

    a

    Chinese

    pavilion

    still

    survives.

    The

    Fagervik

    estate

    is

    approached

    from the

    public

    road

    by

    a

    lane

    through

    woods,

    which

    soon

    becomes

    a

    village

    street

    linedwith iron?

    workers

    cottages,

    timber built and

    shingle

    roofed.

    A

    corner

    of

    one

    of

    these

    cottages

    can

    be

    seen

    in

    Fig.

    4,

    which shows the

    village

    church

    at

    the end

    of

    the lane

    where

    it

    emerges

    at

    the

    lake-shore,

    beyond

    which

    stands

    the

    great

    house. The

    church,

    designed

    by

    Johan

    Friedrich

    Schulz,

    was

    built in

    1737 and,

    like

    nearly

    every

    village

    church

    in

    Finland, has a separate bell-tower. Again, both church and tower are

    wholly

    of timber

    on

    rough

    field-stone

    foundations,

    and

    a stone

    lower

    storey

    in

    the

    case

    of

    the

    bell-tower.

    A

    walled

    graveyard

    contains the

    proprietors family

    tomb. The

    iron-making buildings

    that

    survive,

    together

    with the bar-iron hammer

    and

    hearths,

    are

    in

    a

    poor

    state

    of

    preservation.

    Production

    stopped

    in

    1902.

    The

    Billn?s

    estate at

    Pinjainen

    close

    by,

    beside

    a

    twenty-foot

    waterfall

    on

    the

    Karjaa

    river,

    passed,

    like the

    Fagervik

    estate,

    from the

    Billsten

    to

    the

    Hising

    family,

    who

    managed

    it

    until

    1898.

    It

    became

    well known for the

    mass

    production

    of

    tools,

    especially

    axes

    and

    spades,

    and

    later for office furniture after

    it

    had become

    part

    of

    a

    larger

    industrial

    enterprise

    owned

    by

    a

    company

    based

    on

    the Fiskars

    works.

    At

    Billn?s

    a

    few of the

    early

    iron-making buildings

    survive,

    together

    with

    a street

    of

    eighteenth-century

    workers

    cottages

    (Fig.

    5),

    not

    unlike those

    at

    Fagervik

    but

    with tiled

    roofs.

    The central build?

    ing,designed by

    Sebastian

    Gripenberg,

    was

    burnt

    down

    in

    1915.

    Fiskars,

    in

    contrast,

    the

    only

    one

    of the old Finnish

    iron-working

    estates

    where the

    production

    of iron is itsmain

    activity

    today,

    retains

    a

    number

    of

    old

    buildings

    of

    various

    dates but

    mostly

    of the

    early

    nineteenth

    century.

    They

    include

    an

    ambitious brick-built stable

    building

    of

    1826

    (Fig.

    6)

    with

    a

    gabled

    central block crowned

    by

    a

    clock-turret, a building (1828) by the most famous of all Finnish

    architects,

    theGerman-born Carl

    Ludwig Engel,

    a

    school

    and

    some

    workers

    houses,

    all

    strung

    along

    the

    ironworks road. The

    present

    main

    residential

    building

    is later than those

    described

    above,

    having

    been built

    in 1816

    by

    the then

    owner,

    Ludwig

    Bj?rkman,

    to

    replace

    a

    central

    building

    of

    1765

    which

    is

    now

    the

    manager s

    office.

    Bj?rkman

    first commissioned the architect Pehr

    Granstedt,

    but

    being

    dissatis?

    fiedwith his

    drawings

    he turned

    to

    Carlo

    Francesco

    Bassi,

    the Italian

    born

    architect,

    Swedish

    trained,

    who became

    city

    architect of Turku

    and

    later,

    under the

    Russians,

    Controller

    of

    Public Works for the

    whole

    Grand

    Duchy

    of

    Finland

    ?

    a

    post

    inwhich

    Engel

    later

    suc?

    ceeded him. Bassi s mansion is in the

    neo-classical

    style

    that

    he and

    Engel

    introduced intoFinland.

    Bj?rkman

    commissioned

    Engel

    to

    add

    flanking buildings

    to

    the

    main

    block

    on

    the

    same

    lines

    as

    those

    at

    Fagervik,

    but these

    were never

    built.

    The

    Fiskars

    ironworks,

    which suffered

    more

    than

    most

    in

    the

    fightingduring

    Charles

    xn s

    wars,

    was

    laid

    out

    afresh

    in

    the

    1760s

    and

    was

    notable for

    producing

    copper

    as

    well

    as

    iron; indeed,

    during

    its

    ownership

    by

    the

    Bj?rkman

    family,

    copper

    became

    its

    main

    product.

    By

    the end of the

    eighteenth

    century

    the

    family

    had become the

    proprietors

    of iron and

    copper

    mines and

    workshops

    in several

    parts

    of Finland. Then in 1808war came again, resulting in theRussian

    conquest

    of Finland.

    This,

    surprisingly,

    had little effect

    on

    the

    iron

    making

    industry.

    Iron-ore

    arid

    pit-iron

    continued

    to

    be

    brought

    in

    from

    Sweden,

    and the

    Russian

    authorities

    in

    control of the

    new

    Grand

    Duchy

    of

    Finland,

    which had been

    given

    autonomous status

    44

    AA

    FILES

    12

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    nHHw*^

    ;i

    ill

    ill

    HI^^H

    7.

    The central

    building

    t

    Orisberg,

    1804,

    by

    .

    olm.

    within the Russian

    Empire, encouraged

    the

    industry

    and

    even

    established

    new

    ironworks

    in

    the

    eastern

    part

    of the

    country,

    using

    local

    ore

    obtained from

    lakes.

    The

    employment

    of the

    most

    eminent architects

    to

    design buildings

    in the Finnish ironworking estates reflects the great prestige that

    attached

    to

    the

    industry

    from

    the

    beginning.

    Their work

    is

    by

    no

    means

    limited

    to

    Mustio,

    Fiskars

    and

    the

    other

    estates

    just

    described.

    In

    others

    of

    the old

    estates

    where

    ironworking

    activities

    have

    long

    ceased the central ironmaster s

    building

    survives;

    in

    fact,

    several of

    the

    architecturally

    most

    notable

    country

    houses

    in

    Finland

    were

    originally

    the

    centre

    of

    ironworking

    estates.

    An

    example

    is

    Orisberg

    (Fig.

    7),

    far

    to

    the north of

    the

    region

    in

    which

    most

    of

    the

    iron?

    works

    were

    clustered.

    It is

    near

    the

    west coast

    in

    the

    province

    of

    Ostrobothnia,

    not

    far from

    the

    sea-port

    town

    ofVaasa.

    Though

    now

    removed

    from

    any industry,

    it stands beside

    its lake

    in

    a

    thickly

    wooded

    park.

    Nearby,

    also

    on

    the shore of

    the

    lake,

    are

    a

    classical

    pavilion

    and

    an

    old

    water-mill. The

    mansion

    was

    built in

    1804,

    probably

    to

    the

    design

    of

    a

    Swedish

    architect,

    I.

    Holm,

    still in the

    style

    ofGustavus

    in

    although

    by

    then the neo-classical

    style

    was

    beginning

    to

    establish

    itself n the

    capital.

    The

    Orisberg

    ironworks

    are

    interesting

    historically

    because

    their

    foundation

    in 1688

    was

    an

    attempt

    to

    free

    the Finnish iron

    industry

    from

    dependence

    on

    Swedish

    ore,

    following

    the

    discovery

    of

    iron-ore

    deposits

    in this

    province.

    The initiative

    was

    taken

    by

    officials

    of

    the

    port

    of

    Vaasa,

    but

    production

    was

    not

    started until

    they

    were

    joined

    by theStockholm merchant Anders Onckel and a blast-furnace and a

    bar-hammer

    were

    built.

    It

    was

    not,

    however,

    until

    near

    the end of the

    eighteenth

    century

    that

    theworks

    began

    to

    flourish,

    because the local

    ore

    proved

    inadequate

    and the blast-furnace

    was

    closed and

    pig-iron

    brought

    in

    from Sweden.

    However,

    in

    1783

    the

    Orisberg

    works

    and

    the house and

    estate

    were

    acquired

    by

    the

    Bj?rkman family,

    and

    although

    the blast-furnace

    was not

    restarted

    the

    workshops

    were

    rebuilt,

    depending

    on

    the

    Bj?rkman

    blast-furnace

    and

    hammer-mills

    at

    Kimo,

    even

    furthernorth

    but

    nearer

    the

    sea.

    These

    were

    then the

    most

    modern

    in inland.

    It

    was

    BengtMagnus Bj?rkman

    and

    his

    son

    Lars

    Magnus

    who built

    the house

    that

    stands

    there

    now.

    He

    was

    a

    proprietor

    with the

    same

    sense

    of

    social

    responsibility

    as

    those who controlled

    the

    many

    iron?

    works in

    usimaa.

    He

    built

    a

    church

    (designed

    for

    him

    in

    1832

    y

    Carl

    Ludwig

    Engel),

    a

    school and the usual workers

    housing.

    Iron

    manu

    8.

    Noormarkku:

    Proprietor s

    residence,

    1877,

    by

    E.

    Lagerspetz.

    facture ceased in

    1900.

    The mansion with the

    estate

    surrounding

    it

    is

    now

    an

    agricultural college.

    Further down the

    west

    coast,

    near

    the

    seaport

    town

    of Pori

    in

    the

    province

    of

    Satakunta,

    stands

    an

    especially interesting

    nineteenth

    century ironworking estate. This isNoormarkku, one of the last

    ironworks

    to

    be founded

    under the

    Swedish

    regime.

    It

    began

    in 1806

    as

    a

    bar-iron

    works,

    relying

    on

    pig-iron

    from Sweden

    since it had

    no

    blast-furnace.

    It

    was

    acquired

    in

    1870

    by

    the industrialist Antti

    Ahlstr?m,

    who added

    sawmilling

    to

    the

    enterprise

    and built

    up

    from

    this

    beginning

    one

    of the

    largest

    industrial

    empires

    in

    Finland,

    operating

    in

    many

    parts

    of the

    country.

    The Noormarkku

    estate

    is

    now

    mostly agricultural,

    but

    many

    of the

    early buildings

    survive.

    Most

    notable

    are a

    succession of

    large

    houses,

    built

    in the

    tradition of

    the

    central

    buildings

    fromwhich the earlier ironworks

    were

    run

    and

    providing

    homes for different

    generations

    of the Ahlstr?m

    family.

    The oldest

    (Fig.

    8),

    built

    in

    1877

    or

    ntti

    Ahlstr?mhimself

    by

    the

    architect Evert

    Lagerspetz,

    is

    a

    striking example

    of

    the

    ornate

    timber

    architecture of the

    period,

    with

    gabled

    front and

    corner

    turret.

    Its

    style

    of

    embellishment,

    derived from the invention and

    ingenuity

    that

    had become characteristic of the

    carpenter s

    trade,

    is the

    same

    style

    that

    was once

    employed

    in

    town

    architecture

    all

    over

    Finland,

    examples

    ofwhich

    have

    been fast

    disappearing

    in

    recent

    years.

    Happily,

    the tradition

    represented

    in

    all these

    Finnish

    ironworks

    of

    engaging

    the

    most

    eminent architects

    to

    design

    the administrators

    mansions

    persisted

    after

    the

    iron-making industry

    had declined

    ?

    persists in fact almost to this day. At Billn?s (see above) a new

    mansion

    was

    built in

    1917

    to

    replace

    the

    one

    that had been burnt

    down,

    and the architect

    was

    Lars

    Sonck,

    the leaderwith Eliel Saarinen

    of the

    Romantic

    Nationalist school which

    put

    new

    life into Finnish

    architecture

    from

    1900

    onwards. Then

    in

    1939

    still

    another mansion

    was

    built

    on

    the

    estate

    at

    Noormarkku: the Villa

    Mairea,

    the

    most

    celebrated house

    by

    the architect

    Alvar

    Aalto,

    who

    designed

    it

    for

    Antti Ahlstr?m s

    grand-daughter.

    The above

    account

    is based

    on

    the author s

    own

    researches

    in

    Finland,

    but he is

    greatly

    indebted for

    many

    historical facts and

    figures

    to

    Mr

    Asko

    Salokorpi

    of theMuseum of

    Finnish Architecture atHelsinki. Mr

    Salokorpi

    was

    responsible

    for an exhibition on

    this

    subject

    held

    at

    theMuseum in

    1979.and

    wrote

    the excellent

    catalogue, published,

    however,

    only

    in

    Finnish.

    Figs.

    4

    (right),

    7

    and

    8

    are

    by

    the

    author.

    The remainder

    are

    by

    courtesy

    of

    the

    Museum of Finnish

    Architecture,

    Helsinki.

    AA

    FILES 12

    45

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