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A VISIT TO THE NORTH COAST OF CUBARon Heyselaar(After leaving Malta on Valentine’s Day 2014, Dutch members Ron and Ineke Heyselaar – and Boris the cat – sailed Lily, their 2010 Amel 54, around the Mediterranean and in November crossed the Atlantic with the ARC+. Then they turned north, with the ultimate destination of Halifax, before returning to the Caribbean for the winter. Plans are to return to Europe in 2016 via Greenland and Iceland. Follow their travels at www.facebook.com/sailingyachtlily/.)

April 2015, slowly mountains started to emerge from the sea haze. Cuba!We shared this view with a more famous person than us, Christopher Columbus.

More than 500 years ago Columbus landed at Playa Blanca, just two miles from our landing point, Puerto de Vita. Rumour has it that he was very impressed with the view, and certainly the scenery is nice, with impressive mountain ranges, but everything is burned by the very intense sunshine, and it is very hot and humid.

After leaving Fajardo in east Puerto Rico just four days previously (650 miles, including a ‘small’ detour to the Silver Banks off the Dominican Republic to see the whales, but no joy), we were keen but also a bit nervous about landing in Cuba. Stories abound about inaccurate charts, massive bureaucracy and derelict marinas, so with some anxiety we called the Guarda Frontera to start the process of inward clearance. Nothing could have been more contrary! The marina in Vita is in a very good state with all facilities available, albeit a bit isolated. The charting was, indeed, a bit more complicated. All three of our electronic charts (Jeppessen, Navionics and Garmin) were inaccurate to some degree, the German NV* paper charts were extremely accurate. It was strange to navigate the ‘old-fashioned’ way on paper. We actually had to work out where we were (can you imagine that?). Highly satisfactory and so much fun! Our RYA instructor would be proud that after all these years his rather intense methods of teaching navigation are not forgotten.

Our first sight of Cuba

* Nautische Veröffentlichungen Verlagsgesellschaft mbH – http://eu.nvcharts.com

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As soon as we entered the 15 mile territorial waters of Cuba we established contact with the Guarda Frontera, who asked us to call again when we were closer. We were then instructed to proceed to the marina. Within minutes of the coast guard call, the marina hailed us on Channel 16 to welcome us to Cuba and ask whether we needed any assistance. To speed up the clearing process, the marina also asked the basic clearance questions so they could inform the various officials. The channel is very well marked, though unlit, and is dredged to a consistent depth of over 5m. At our request the marina dispatched a speedboat to guide us through the channel to the marina.

The monument to mark the landingof Christopher Columbus at Playa Blanca

Lily moored in Marina de Vita

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Cuban officials take their tasks very seriously, and we were asked to anchor first to allow the health official to clear us. The friendly doctor arrived within ten minutes of us anchoring, took our temperatures, asked the usual health-related questions, filled in reams of paper and subsequently declared us healthy (always good to know ...). We could now lower the Q-flag. As it was already late afternoon we were told that we should wait for morning before proceeding to the marina. This worked perfectly for us – the holding is very good in mud and the whole port, including the anchorage is extremely well protected, the 20-knot wind causing a mere ripple. After four days at sea we slept well, so next morning we were ready for whatever Cuban officialdom might throw at us.

At 0800 the marina informed us that they were ready to receive us. The same support again, with plenty of people taking our lines (mooring was Mediterranean-style) and the officials to conclude the clearance process. The pleasant and efficient Guarda Frontera official informed us that, at Puerto de Vita, it had been decided to combine the various functions (immigration, customs, agriculture, harbour master) into one person – him. Indeed, some more reams of paper but all very straightforward. The expected inspection of the vessel was quick and painless – no request for gifts, just something to drink as it was already quite hot outside. They left taking the ‘foreign’ waste with them to avoid contamination of Cuba. The vet was already waiting to come onboard to check our cat, and left 15 minutes later having also given the all clear. An hour after we had handed our lines to the crowd on the jetty and CUC 55 (about US $60) poorer, we were officially in Cuba and allowed to stay for 30 days. The payment included the cruising permit and all charges for clearing in and out. Not bad!

There were a few other yachts in the marina but no great number, which is very much the scene in Cuba. We sailed along the whole of the north coast but never saw another yacht. Bliss after the BVI!

The marina staff were very helpful with sorting out the more mundane issues (which are not so mundane in Cuba) like changing money. The various sailing forums state that it is nearly impossible to get cash from an ATM or via your credit card, so we had brought a big stash of US dollars. How expensive this wrong information turned out to be! Maybe ATMs are not as widespread as in other countries, but they are around and are very safe, as most have a security guard stationed nearby to keep an eye on things. Cash can be obtained from a credit card at all state-owned money exchange locations (cadecas) so long as the card is not US-issued or MasterCard (nothing to do with the Cubans, but due to the American government’s embargo of Cuba, hopefully soon to change). Changing US dollars attracts a 10% fee (not 20% as many forums state) when changing into CUC. Credit cards are not widely accepted in shops and, if accepted, will cost an additional 3% fee.

After almost six months of white Caribbean beaches, painkillers and coconuts we decided that it was time to explore inland, instead of the many anchorages so pretty they are surreal. Cuba has plenty of these, which you have to share with nobody but your shadow. Renting a car and driving in Cuba is very straightforward. In east Cuba traffic is basically non-existant and the roads, with a few exceptions, are good. Most of the time we just shared the road with an occasional horse-drawn carriage or bicycle.

The scenery is spectacular, with endless sugarcane fields and mountains vying for the best scenery award of the hour. Road signs and road maps (the old fashioned way

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again – no satnav system showing roads in Cuba) are clear and, if confused, just look lost at any major crossing. Within five minutes somebody will come and give you directions. No tip is expected but a few pesos are always welcome. The Cubans must be some of the friendliest people in the Caribbean.

In just over a week we explored the eastern part of Cuba, drove almost 500km, stayed at Cuban b&bs (casas particulares) and made Cuban friends. It is a wonderful place. However, soon it was time to leave Vita and move to Marina Hemingway in Havana. We decided to sail it in one go, forfeiting all those wonderful beaches and bays waiting for us to share with nobody! Clearing out was as fast as clearing in. The cruising permit was issued – “Please Sir, anchor anywhere you want as long as nobody lives there, and visit any official port as you please. Just give the Guarda Frontera official this cruising permit” – a quick inspection, and off we went.

A typical road scene in Holquin province

Santiago de Cuba

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With the trade winds blowing at 25+ knots, and the Old Bahama Channel current pushing us at 2 knots, it took us just over 2½ days to cover the 430 miles along the Cuban north coast. In the Old Bahama Channel one gets squeezed between the barrier reef (the second longest in the world), the traffic separation zone (plenty of vessels using this en route to Florida) and the infamous hurricane flats (a mere 3m deep at best). It was good that we were doing almost 10 knots so the ordeal did not last too long.

As Marina Hemingway is closed during darkness (as in Puerto de Vita there are no functioning lights) and our progress was fast, we decided to anchor at Cayo Buba, a small island east of the Hicacos peninsula (Varadero), for a couple of hours and sail the last 60 miles during the night. As Cayo Buba is far into the huge bay, we had to sail about three miles through a very well-marked channel. Once again, the electronic charts were all inaccurate in one way or another so again we relied on our NV paper charts. As we got closer, the marina contacted us asking whether we needed any assistance. After we explained that we had merely come to anchor for a few hours they wished us a good rest and left us alone. Marina Gaviota is a brand new marina, of huge proportions and mostly empty. All moorings are French style (ie. stern-to moorings with a holding buoy) and full service. A bit remote at the very end of the Varadero ‘strip’ but beautifully built. At Cayo Buba holding again was very good. The marina called again when they saw us leaving to be sure we were okay, and wished us a good trip to Havana.

All went well until we hit the Gulf Stream just 10 miles east of Havana. A 2 knot current on the nose and the wind dropping fast made us realise that we had been spoilt after so many months of consistent tradewind sailing since leaving Gibraltar the previous September. Motoring closer inshore to avoid the current worked, but we hadn’t expected the many fishermen floating by. All were using some floating device or other – some huge inner tubes, others giant blocks of foam – and all were floating with the tide while trying to catch fish on lines. We were not sure how they actually moved around. An interesting sight!

A fisherman floats byas we approach Havana

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Slowly Havana came into view. Not having seen a big city for some months, it took some getting used to again, especially the smell of civilization! Marina Hemingway followed the same procedures as Marina Vita – all very professional, friendly and less paperwork as we had the cruising permit. The moorings are good, with reliable power and safe drinking water available, and it is close to Havana. What a city! It is best explored using the ‘local’ system – there’s nothing like riding to town in a 1952 Pontiac owned by the same family since new, and sharing it with five other Cubans. A 20 minute entertainment costing just 20 pesos (about US 80c!).

Havana by the sea

Lily at Marina Hemingway, Havana

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Havana Old Town (Havana Vieja)

After our daughters joined us from Canada and the Netherlands, we left the boat in the marina and rented a car to explore the Pinar del Rio region of western Cuba, known for growing the best tobacco in Cuba. We were keen to explore the tobacco plantations and

get educated on growing, smoking and enjoying (very) good cigars. The Viñales area, a little further north, is beautiful albeit a bit touristy. As everywhere in Cuba, there is plenty of music and people are friendly. It was easy to find a good casa particular and cheap restaurants.

Old American cars ready for tourists

La Bodigita del Medio, Havana. Later some enthusiastic Chileans

embarked on a massive jam session

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R e n t i n g a c a r in Cuba includes the usua l Cuban e x p e r i e n c e o f t h e g o v e r n m e n t being hell-bent on scamming you out of some money. With rental cars it is fuel. The definition of full and half tanks bought and returned is much in favour o f the rental car company. As always in Cuba, it is best to take it in one’s stride and try to minimise the effect of the scam. There’s nothing like being scammed whilst acknowledging it and smiling.

A typical street scene outside Havana’s ‘El Capitolio’ building

Cohiba tobacco plants drying on a tobacco

plantation at San Juan y Martinez

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After five weeks in Cuba it was time to move on. As we planned to sail along the US East Coast as far as Halifax we thought it best to make Key West the next stop. A combination of poor research and plain stupidity made this first stop in the US a very painful one. Losing our US cruising licence (as issued in Puerto Rico) brought us close to the yacht being impounded – “You know, Sir, that we are entitled under the law to impound your vessel”

– an (almost) hefty fine – “Sir, we are in a good mood today so we will let you off with a warning only” – and being made to understand that we were probably the worst criminals ever to visit the US – not exactly the warm welcome we had become used to. This is obviously a different story, to be told later.

Our overall experience of Cuba?

The Cubans are very friendly, and the country is very safe. We strolled through poor, derelict areas of Havana in darkness but never felt uneasy. People come out to talk to you and are interested to hear where you’re from.

Yes, they all try to take money from you but the country is very poor and tourists are a good source of funds. The amount of money involved in the scamming is quite low and the locals are equal victims. The government does it on a larger scale and is thus a bit more annoying, but it is still within limits. We have paid higher amounts officially in other Caribbean destinations.

The economy forces many Cubans to be very industrious and entrepreneurial, allowing them to make some necessary additional money. It’s easy to find somebody willing to help for some CUC. With the right attitude it is possible not only to make a friend for life but also get genuine help. Some Spanish is useful, but among the younger generation English is spoken.

The Heyselaar family with the plantation owner. It is important to be seen with a cigar!

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It is not as cheap as you think, but it is still cheaper than the other Caribbean islands. Working the system like a local is a little complex but, with an open mind, doable. Provisioning is a bit of a hassle, as most supermarkets seem to have nothing worth buying. Watch for queues at shops, as this normally indicates they are selling something of interest. Join the queue and see what they have to offer ... and always very entertaining! We queued for an hour to buy fresh eggs – at 1 peso (US 04c) each – and two hours to get some ice cream (1 peso per generous scoop of delicious ice cream). The Cubans have fine-tuned queuing, making it quite interesting and hassle free.

The officials are getting more yacht-friendly and, based on our experience, are very easy to deal with. Investments in marinas have been made, to await the influx of yachts.

We will definitely be back to see more of this beautiful country, with its unspoiled scenery, beautiful anchorages, brilliant diving, 1950s cars and friendly people.

Yeah! Eggs! Finally! Ron and Ineke

Viñales in the Pinar del Rio region of western Cuba