A TRYST WITH TEMPLES

It is often called “the city of a thousand temples” and the first impression of this cultural

destination comes from its towering temples casting a shadow over endless armies of old-

fashioned motor rickshaws, which are still the main mode of transport here, as well as the

colorful, chaotic bustle of its streets.

Kanchipuram, formerly Conjeevaram, or Kanchi, in India’s southern state of Tamil Nadu is one

of the country’s ancient cities which survived the vicissitudes of changing fortunes over the

millennia. The sights, sounds and smells make a first-time visitor feel this is a place where

centuries co-exist.

Nagereshu Kanchi is a reference to the city in the ancient Sanskrit language, meaning Kanchi

stood out among cities. Its history can be traced to several centuries before the Christian era.

The city finds mentions in 2nd century BC scholar Patanjali’s works (his Yoga Sutra guides yoga

experts to this day) and also in Sangam literature, the earliest-known Tamil literature which dates

back to more than 2,500 years. Kanchi flourished as a center of Hindu, Buddhist and Jain

learning. The media of instruction were Sanskrit, Pali, Tamil, and later, Telugu as well.

An Indian commentator, Subramaniyam Venkatraman, says, “The founder of Zen Buddhism,

Bodhidharma, is believed to have been born here and supposed to have gone to China to spread

Buddhism and also the martial art of varmakkalai. Xuanzang, the great Chinese traveler, visited

the city in the 7th century, and in his memoirs, admired its culture and civilization.

Venkataraman notes that Kanchi attained its peak of glory and power as the capital city during

the reign of the Pallava dynasty, whose kings ruled from the 3rd-9th centuries. The rulers,

“besides being an imperial and a maritime power, were also great lovers of arts and architecture”

and several beautiful temples in and around Kanchi were built under their patronage.

The Pallava empire extended from the River Krishna in the north to the River Kaveri in the south

and had links with China, Thailand, Fiji and other distant places through the port city of

Mamallapuram.

Many great figures were born or lived in this city, including Dandi, author of the Sanskrit classic

Dashakumaracharita, written in the 6th or 7th century about the adventures of 10 princes.

Another celebrated Sanskrit poet, Bharavi, who wrote the epic poem Kiratarjuniya, (narrating the

encounter of a hero and a god disguised as a hunter), also hailed from Kanchi.

The city hosted famous Buddhist scholars such as Dignaga (one of the founders of Indian logic),

Buddhaghosa, a 5th century scholar, and Dhammapala, a commentator.

“Kanchipuram is one of the great centers of scholarship historically,” says Satya Sivaraman, a

filmmaker and journalist. “Much of Buddhist thought traveled from here to other parts of Asia. It

was also a center of the Jain religion for a long time. Since the 10th century, it has been an

important center of Hindu religion with one of the four Shankaracharyas (heads of a Hindu

tradition) having his ashram (monastery) in Kanchipuram.”

For a city with such ancient cultural and intellectual past, Kanchi is strikingly unpretentious. Its

temples and sites are scattered, connected by streets and alleys dotted with inexpensive eateries

and sari shops, including some of the best in the country.

It is also called “the Silk City” because of its famous hand-woven silk fabrics. Legend has it that

many weavers used pure gold thread for that distinctive sheen in the cloth.

Kanchipuram’s most famous export is the silk sari, made using handlooms. Some 5,000 families

are said to be engaged in weaving. Locally-produced saris are expensive and those who buy them

for important occasions, such as weddings, tend to hand them down to succeeding generations.

The city’s silk fabrics are noted for their pleasing designs and color combinations, but above all,

for their sturdiness and durability. Some Indian costume designers are known to travel to the city

to scout for its products.

These days, intermediaries have been cutting into the marketing of silk saris. Criticism can often

be heard that local producers are losing their grip on the market. Though there are some sales

outlets for the saris in Kanchipuram itself, the bulk of the produce is transported to cities such as

Chennai, Bengaluru, Mumbai, New Delhi, Kolkata and overseas.

The food is also delicous. The vegetarian restaurant Saravana Bhavan gained such a reputation

that besides other parts of India, it was encouraged to open outlets in Kuala Lumpur and the US.

Despite the acclaim, the original eatery in Kanchi remains determinedly modest though people

from all over India, including the rich and famous, come here for mouth-watering rava dosa

(pancakes) and vada (deep-fried lentil cakes).

But back to Kanchi’s history. The Pallavas were followed by the Chola kings, who ruled from

the 10th-13th centuries. Then it was part of the Vijayanagar empire from the 14th-17th centuries.

Finally, it came under British colonial rule.

Today, it is the headquarters of a district also called Kanchipuram. It has a bustling bus stand, a

railway station and a government hospital, besides several schools and colleges. Notable among

them is the Meenakshi Medical College and Research Institute.

It is also a trading center for vegetables, cereals, pulses, textiles, edible oil, flowers, handicraft

items, metal ware, and jewelry. A number of movie theatres dot the landscape. The proximity to

Chennai has visible influence on the city.

While most people in Kanchipuram speak Tamil, the official language of the state, considerable

numbers use Telugu and to a lesser extent, Urdu.

With such an impressive culture portfolio – poetry, religion and craftsmanship – the city would

have been expected to be imposing, self-assured and arrogant.

Instead, there is an air of subdued casualness about everything. One has to scratch the surface to

encounter the city’s importance.

However, it would be a mistake to visit South India and miss out on Kanchipuram. Despite its

modesty, it remains one of the greatest ancient cities of India.

Songs of the soil

Most of the villages around Kanchipuram do not appear on the Google maps or on most of the

road maps published in India. They may be just two hours’ drive from Kanchipuram, but

psychologically, they are far away, living in their own realm and rhythm.

Women in colorful saris work in verdant rice fields, some in the shadow of the imposing

Vandavasi Hill with its ancient temples. Work is hard and long but they sing and when they see

visitors, shout to one another and crack a joke or two.

The colors and the jolly scene make for a photographer’s feast.

Most villages in this area are impoverished and people have the additional burden of the deep-

rooted caste hierarchy to contend with. But the harder life is, the harder people work and play.

Villages around Kanchi enthusiastically celebrate numerous festivals. Statues of mythological

heroes abound. Many dwellings are built near the statue of the transsexual Aravan – a character

in the epic Mahabharata. The stone statue is headless – the head is re-attached only during the

festival, and removed again on the 10th day of the event.

Statues of Mohandas Gandhi, the father of the nation, abound in the towns and villages.

This part of India is renowned for its itinerant theatre groups, which are accompanied by

traditional musicians

One of the most famous performing groups is the Thanthoni Amman Terukoothu Troupe of

Akkur village. All actors, even those playing female characters, are male.

The message of the plays can be cultural or social, shaped by current events.

The music mainly comes from a reed instrument (muka veenai), percussion (mridangam),

harmonium (potti) and cymbals (thalam).

The musicians may look earthy but they produce marvelous and highly sophisticated music.

Performances take place at night, sometimes going on until early hours of the morning. The

entire village gathers – adults, elderly and children alike. No matter how brilliant, the

performance is often a pretext for gathering and exchanging gossip..

On the night the theatre comes to the village, everyone seems to be equal, at least for the duration

of the performance. They come together to witness the show and hear the sounds of cymbals and

reeds and momentarily forget their worries amid the illumination and unexpected brightness.

Kanchipuram

This article is about the municipality in Tamil Nadu, India. For its namesake district, see

Kanchipuram district.

Kanchipuram

கா�ஞ்சி�புரம்

—  Temple city  —

Clockwise from top: Kailasanathar temple,

Ekambareswarar Temple, Kamakshi Amman

Temple, a silk weaver in the city and Varadarajar

Perumal Temple

Kanchipuram

Coordinates: 12°49′N 79°43′E / 12.82°N

79.71°ECoordinates: 12°49′N 79°43′E / 12.82°N

79.71°E

Country India

State Tamil Nadu

District Kanchipuram

Population (2001)

 • Total 153,140

Languages

 • Official Tamil

Time zone IST (UTC+5:30)

PIN 631501-631503

Telephone code 044

Vehicle registration TN 21

Website kanchi.tn.nic.in

Kanchipuram a (கா�ஞ்சி�புரம்) otherwise known as Kanchi (previously romanized as Kāñci-

pura, Conjevaram)[1] is a city in the Indian state of Tamil Nadu, 72 km (45 mi) from Chennai –

the capital of Tamil Nadu. The city covers an area of 11.605 km2 (4.481 sq mi) and had a

population of 153,140 in 2001.[2] It is the administrative headquarters of Kanchipuram District.

Kanchipuram is well-connected by road and rail. Chennai International Airport is the nearest

domestic and international airport to the city.

Located on the banks of the Vegavathy River, Kanchipuram has been ruled by the Pallavas, the

Medieval Cholas, the Later Cholas, the Later Pandyas, the Vijayanagar Empire, the Carnatic

kingdom, and the British. The city's historical monuments include the Kailasanathar Temple and

the Vaikunta Perumal Temple. Historically, Kanchipuram was a centre of education [3] and was

known as the ghatikasthanam, or "place of learning".[4] The city was also a religious centre of

advanced education for Jainism and Buddhism between the 1st and 5th centuries.[5]

In Hindu theology, Kanchipuram is one of the seven Indian cities in which to reach final

attainment, and has the Varadharaja Perumal Temple, Ekambareswarar Temple, Kamakshi

Amman Temple, and Kumara Kottam – major Hindu temples. The city is a holy pilgrimage site

for both Saivites and Vaishnavites. Of the 108 holy temples of the Hindu god Vishnu, 14 are

located in Kanchipuram. The city is well known for its hand woven silk sarees and most of the

city's workforce is involved in the weaving industry.[6]

Kanchipuram is administered by a Special grade municipality constituted in 1947. It is the

headquarters of the Kanchi matha, a Hindu monastic institution believed to have been founded

by the Hindu saint and commentator Adi Sankaracharya, and was the capital city of the Pallava

Kingdom between the 4th to 9th centuries.

Etymology

According to legend, the name Kanchi is derived from Ka referring to the Hindu god Brahma

and anchi, referring to his worship of Hindu god Vishnu at this place.[7] The earliest inscription

from the Maurya period (325–185 BCE) denote the city as Kanchipuram, where King Visnugopa

was defeated by Samudragupta Maurya (320–298 BCE).[8]Patanjali(150 BCE or 2nd c. BCE)

refers to the city in his Mahabhasya as Kanchipuraka.[8] The city was referred to by various

Tamil names like Kanchi, Kanchipedu and Sanskrit names like Kanchipuram.[9][8] The Pallava

inscriptions from (250–355) and the inscriptions of the Chalukya dynasty refers the city as

Kanchipura.[8]Jaina Kanchi refers to the area around Tiruparutti Kundram.[8] During the British

rule, the city was known as Conjeevaram and later as Kanchipuram. The municipal

administration was renamed Kancheepuram, while the district retains the name Kanchipuram.[citation needed]

History

See also: Kanchipuram in the pre-Pallava period

Sculptures inside Kanchipuram Kailasanathar Temple – the oldest existing temple in the city

Kanchipuram Timeline

200 —

–

400 —

–

600 —

–

800 —

–

1000 —

–

1200 —

–

1400 —

–

1600 —

–

1800 —

–

2000 —

Pallavas

Cholas

Vijayanagara Empire

Arcot Rulers

British

Independent India

An approximate time-scale of Kanchipuram rulers.

While it is widely accepted that Kanchipuram had served as an Early Chola capital,[10][11] the

claim has been contested by Indian historian P. T. Srinivasa Iyengar who wrote that the Tamil

culture of the Sangam period did not spread through the Kanchipuram district, and cites the

Sanskritic origins of its name in support of his claim.[12] The earliest references to Kanchipuram

are found in the books of the Sanskrit grammarian Patanjali, who lived between the 3rd and 2nd

centuries BCE.[12] The city is believed to have been part of the mythical Dravida Kingdom of the

Mahabharatha,[12] and was described as "the best among cities" (Sanskrit: Nagareshu Kanchi) by

the 4th century Sanskrit poet, Kalidasa.[13]

Kanchipuram grew in importance when the Pallavas of southern Andhra Pradesh, wary of

constant invasions from the north, moved their capital south to the city in the 6th century. [14][15]

The Pallavas fortified the city with ramparts, wide moats, well-laid-out roads, and artistic

temples. During the reign of the Pallava King Mahendravarman I, the Chalukya King Pulakesin

II (610–642) invaded the Pallava kingdom as far as the Kaveri River. The Pallavas successfully

defended Kanchipuram and foiled repeated attempts to capture the city.[16] A second invasion

ended disastrously for Pulakesin II, who was forced to retreat to his capital Vatapi which was

besieged and Pulakesin II was killed by Narasimhavarman I (630–668), son of Mahendravarman

I (600–630), at the Battle of Vatapi.[17][16] Under the Pallavas, Kanchipuram flourished as a centre

of Hindu and Buddhist learning. King Narasimhavarman II built the city's important Hindu

temples, the Kanchi Kailasanathar Temple, the Varadharaja Perumal Temple and the

Iravatanesvara Temple.[18]Xuanzang, a Chinese traveller who visited Kanchipuram in 640,

recorded that the city was 6 miles (9.7 km) in circumference and that its people were renowned

for their bravery, piety, love of justice, and veneration for learning.[15][19]

The Medieval Chola king Aditya I conquered the Pallava kingdom, including Kanchipuram, after

defeating the Pallava ruler Aparajitavarman (880–897) in about 890.[20] Under the Cholas, the

city was the headquarters of the northern viceroyalty.[21] The province was renamed "Jayamkonda

Cholamandalam" during the reign of King Raja Raja Chola I (985–1014),[22][23] who constructed

the Karchapeswarar Temple and renovated the Kamakshi Amman Temple.[23] His son, Rajendra

Chola I (1012–44) constructed the Yathothkari Perumal Temple.[24] According to the

Siddhantasaravali of Trilocana Sivacharya, Rajendra Chola I brought a band of Saivas with him

on his return from the Chola expedition to North India and settled them in Kanchipuram.[25] In

about 1218, the Pandya king Maravarman Sundara Pandyan (1216–1238) invaded the Chola

country, making deep inroads into the kingdom which was saved by the intervention of the

Hoysala king Vira Narasimha II (1220–1235), who fought on the side of the Chola king

Kulothunga Chola III.[26][27] Inscriptions indicate the presence of a powerful Hoysala garrison in

Kanchipuram, which remained in the city until about 1230.[28]Shortly afterwards, Kanchipuram

was conquered by the Telugu Cholas, from whom Jatavarman Sundara Pandyan I took the city in

1258.[29] The city remained with the Pandyas until 1311 when the Sambuvarayars declared

independence, taking advantage of the anarchy caused by Malik Kafur's invasion.[22][30] After

short spells of occupation by Ravivarman Kulasekhara of Venad in 1313–1314 and the Kakatiya

ruler Prataparudra, Kanchipuram was conquered by the Vijayanagar general Kumara Kampana,

who defeated the Sambuvarayars in 1361.[31]

The Battle of Pollilur, fought near Kanchipuram in 1780

The Vijayanagar Empire ruled Kanchipuram from 1361 to 1645.[31] The earliest inscriptions

attesting to Vijayanagar rule are those of Kumara Kampanna from 1364 and 1367, which were

found in the precincts of the Kailasanathar Temple and Varadaraja Perumal Temple respectively.[31] His inscriptions record the re-institution of Hindu rituals in the Kailasanathar Temple that had

been abandoned during the Muslim invasions.[31] Inscriptions of the Vijayanagar kings Harihara

II, Deva Raya II, Krishna Deva Raya, Achyuta Deva Raya, Sriranga I, and Venkata II are found

within the city.[31] Harihara II endowed grants in favour of the Varadaraja Perumal Temple. [31]In

the 15th century, Kanchipuram was invaded by the Velama Nayaks in 1437, the Gajapati

kingdom in 1463–1465 and 1474–75 and the Bahmani Sultanate in about 1480.[31] A 1467

inscription of Virupaksha Raya II mentions a cantonment in the vicinity of Kanchipuram.[31] In

1486, Saluva Narasimha Deva Raya, the governor of the Kanchipuram region, overthrew the

Sangama Dynasty of Vijayanagar and founded the Saluva Dynasty.[31] Like most of his

predecessors, Narasimha donated generously to the Varadaraja Perumal Temple.[31] Kanchipuram

was visited twice by the Vijayanagar king Krishna Deva Raya, considered to be the greatest of

the Vijayanagar rulers, and 16 inscriptions of his time are found in the Varadaraja Perumal

Temple.[31] The inscriptions in four languages – Tamil, Telugu, Kannada, and Sanskrit – record

the genealogy of the Tuluva kings and their contributions, along with those of their nobles,

towards the upkeep of the shrine.[31] His successor, Achyuta Deva Raya, reportedly had himself

weighed against pearls in Kanchipuram and distributed the pearls amongst the poor. [31]

Throughout the second half of the 16th and first half of the 17th centuries, the Aravidu Dynasty

tried to maintain a semblance of authority in the southern parts after losing their northern

territories in the Battle of Talikota.[31]Venkata II (1586–1614) tried to revive the Vijayanagar

Empire, but the kingdom relapsed into confusion after his death and rapidly fell apart after the

Vijayanagar king Sriranga III's defeat by the Golconda and Bijapur sultanates in 1646.[31]

After the fall of the Vijayanagar Empire, Kanchipuram endured over two decades of political

turmoil.[31] The Golconda Sultanate gained control of the city in 1672, but lost it to Bijapur three

years later.[31] In 1676, Shivaji arrived in Kanchipuram at the invitation of the Golconda

Sultanate in order to drive out the Bijapur forces.[31] His campaign was successful and

Kanchipuram was held by the Golconda Sultanate until its conquest by the Mughal Empire led

by Aurangazeb in October 1687.[31]In the course of their southern campaign, the Mughals

defeated the Marathas under Sambhaji, the elder son of Shivaji, in a battle near Kanchipuram in

1688[31] which caused considerable damage to the city but cemented Mughal rule. [31]Soon after,

the priests at the Varadaraja Perumal, Ekambareshwarar and Kamakshi Amman temples, mindful

of Aurangazeb's reputation for iconoclasm, transported the idols to southern Tamil Nadu and did

not restore them until after Aurangazeb's death in 1707.[31] Under the Mughals, Kanchipuram was

part of the viceroyalty of the Carnatic which, in the early 1700s, began to function

independently, retaining only a nominal acknowledgement of Mughal rule.[31] The Marathas

invaded Kanchipuram during the Carnatic period in 1724 and 1740, and the Nizam of Hyderabad

in 1742.

Kanchipuram was a battlefront for the British East India Company in the Carnatic Wars against

the French East India Company and in the Anglo-Mysore Wars with the Sultanate of Mysore.[32]The popular 1780 Battle of Pollilur of the Second Anglo-Mysore War, known for the use of

rockets by Hyder Ali of Mysore, was fought in the village of Pullalur near Kanchipuram.[citation

needed] In 1763, the British East India Company assumed indirect control from the Nawab of the

Carnatic over the erstwhile Chingleput District, comprising the present-day Kanchipuram and

Tiruvallur districts, in order to defray the expenses of the Carnatic wars. [31] The Company

brought the territory under their direct control during the Second Anglo-Mysore War, and the

Collectorate of Chingleput was created in 1794.[31] The district was split into two in 1997 and

Kanchipuram made the capital of the newly created Kanchipuram district.[31]

Geography

Kanchipuram is located at 12°59′N 79°43′E / 12.98°N 79.71°E, 72 km (45 mi) south-west of

Chennai on the banks of the Vegavathi River, a tributary of the Palar River. [33] The city covers an

area of 11.6 km2 (4.5 sq mi) and has an elevation of 83.2 m (273 ft) above sea level.[33]The land

around Kanchipuram is flat and slopes towards the south[33] and east.[34] The soil in the region is

mostly clay,[34] with some loam, clay, and sand, which are suitable for use in construction. [33] The

Chingleput District Manual (1879) describes the region's soils as "highly inferior" and "highly

stony or mixed with lime, gravel, soda and laterite".[35] It has been postulated that the granite

required for the Varadaraja Perumal Temple might have been obtained from the Sivaram Hills

located 10 miles east of Kanchipuram.[34] The area is classified as a Seismic Zone II region,[36]

and earthquakes of up to magnitude 6 on the Richter Scale may be expected.[37]

Ground water is the major source of water supplies used for irrigation – the block of

Kanchipuram has 24 canals, 2809 tanks, 1878 tube wells and 3206 ordinary wells. [38] The area is

rich in medicinal plants, and historic inscriptions mention the medicinal value.[39] Dimeria

acutipes and cyondon barberi are plants found only in Kanchipuram and Chennai.[40]

Climate

Kanchipuram generally experiences hot and humid climatic conditions throughout the year. [41]

Temperatures reache an average maximum of 37.5 °C (99.5 °F) between April and July, and an

average minimum of 20.5 °C (68.9 °F) between December and February.[41] The daytime heat

during summer can be oppressive; temperatures can reach 43 °C (109 °F).[41] Relative humidities

of between 58% and 84% prevail throughout the year.[41] The humidity reaches its peak during

the morning and is lowest in the evening. Relative humidity is higher between November and

January and is lowest throughout June.[41]

The city receives an average of 1064 mm of rainfall annually, 68% of which falls during the

northeast monsoon.[33] Most of the precipitation occurs in the form of cyclonic storms caused by

depressions in the Bay of Bengal during the northeast monsoon.[41] The prevailing wind direction

is south-westerly in the morning and south-easterly in the evening.[42]

Government and politics

Kanchipuram Loksabha constituency

Municipality Officials

Chairman T. Mythili.[43]

Commissioner N. Vimala[44]

Vice

ChairmanR.T. Sekar[45]

Elected Members

Member of

Legislative

Assembly

V.

Somasundaram[46]

Member of

ParliamentP. Viswanathan[47]

The Kanchipuram municipality was officially constituted in 1866,[15] covering 7.68 km2

(2.97 sq mi), and its affairs were administered by a municipal committee. It was upgraded to a

grade I municipality in 1947, selection grade municipality in 1983 and special grade municipality

in 2008.[48][49] As of 2011 the municipality occupies 11.6 km2 (4.5 sq mi), has 51 wards and is the

biggest municipality in Kanchipuram district.[49] The functions of the municipality are devolved

into six departments: General, Engineering, Revenue, Public Health, Town Planning and the

Computer Wing,[50] all of which are under the control of a Municipal Commissioner, who is the

supreme executive head.[50] The legislative powers are vested in a body of 51 members, each

representing one ward. The legislative body is headed by an elected Chairperson who is assisted

by a Deputy Chairperson.[51]

Kanchipuram comes under the Kanchipuram state assembly constituency. From the state

delimitation after 1967, seven of the ten elections held between 1971 and 2011 were won by the

Anna Dravida Muneetra Kazhagam (ADMK).[52]Dravida Munnetra Kazhagam (DMK) won the

seat during the 1971 and 1989 elections and its ally Pattali Makkal Katchi won the seat during

the 2006 elections.[52] The current member of the legislative assembly is V. Somasundaram from

the ADMK party.[52][46]

Kanchipuram Lok Sabha constituency is a newly formed constituency of the Parliament of India

after the 2008 delimitation.[53] The constituency originally existed for the 1951 election, and was

formed in 2008 after merging the assembly segments of Chengalpattu, Thiruporur,

Madurantakam (SC), Uthiramerur and Kanchipuram, which were part of the now defunct

Chengalpattu constituency, and Alandur, which was part of the Chennai South constituency. This

constituency is reserved for Scheduled Castes (SC) candidates. P. Viswanathan from the

Congress party is the current Member of Parliament for the constituency.[52]Indian writer,

politician and founder of the DMK, C. N. Annadurai, was born and raised in Kanchipuram.[54] He

was the first member of a Dravidian party to hold that post and was the first non-Congress leader

to form a majority government in post-colonial India.[55][56]

Policing in the city is provided by the Kanchipuram sub-division of the Tamil Nadu Police

headed by a Deputy Superintendent of Police.[57] The force's special units include prohibition

enforcement, district crime, social justice and human rights, district crime records and special

branch that operate at the district level police division, which is headed by a Superintendent of

Police.[57]

Demographics

A house depicting old living style of Kanchipuram

Historical population

Year Pop. ±%

1871 37,275 —

1881 37,312 +0.1%

1891 42,547 +14.0%

1901 46,164 +8.5%

1911 53,864 +16.7%

1921 61,376 +13.9%

1931 65,258 +6.3%

1941 74,685 +14.4%

1951 84,810 +13.6%

1961 92,714 +9.3%

1971 110,657 +19.4%

1981 131,013 +18.4%

1991 144,955 +10.6%

2001 153,140 +5.6%

2011 164,265 +7.3%

Sources:

1871: [58]

1901 – 1991:[59]

2001:[2]

2011:[60]

During the rule of King Narasimha Varma in the 7th century, the city covered about 10 square

kilometres (3.9 sq mi) and had a population of 10,000.[61] The population increased to 13,000 in

subsequent years and the city developed cross patterned links with rectangular streets.[62] The

settlements in the city were mostly caste based.[62] During the period of Nandivarma Pallavan II,

houses were built on raised platforms and burnt bricks.[62] The concepts of the verandah in the

front yard, garden in the backyard, ventilation facilities and drainage of rainwater were all

introduced for the first time.[62] The centre of the city was occupied by Brahmins, while the

Tiruvekka temple and houses of agricultural labourers were situated outside the city. [63] There

were provisions in the city's outskirts for training the cavalry and infantry.[63]

During the Chola era, Kanchipuram was not the capital, but the kings had a palace in the city and

lot of development was extended eastwards.[62] During the Vijayanagara period, the population

rose to 25,000.[62] There were no notable additions to the city's infrastructure during British rule.[62] The British census of 1901 recorded that Kanchipuram had a population of 46,164, consisting

of 44,684 Hindus, 1,313 Muslims, 49 Christians and 118 Jains.[15]

As of 2011, provisional figures b showed that Kanchipuram had a population of 164,265; 81,987

were male and 82,275 were female, and that the city covered 36.14 km2 (13.95 sq mi).[60][64] The

2001 Indian census showed that Kanchipuram had a population of 153,140 at a density of 13,428

persons per km2.[60] Males constitute 50.37% of the population and females 49.63%.[2]

Kanchipuram had an average literacy rate of 74.8% in 2001, which was higher than the national

average of 59.5%. Male literacy was 81%, and female literacy was 69%.[60] 10% of the city

population is under 6 years of age. About 8 lakh (800,000) pilgrims visit the city every year as of

2001.[65]

Kanchipuram has 416 hectares (1,030 acres) of residential properties, mostly around the temples.

The commercial area covers 62 hectares (150 acres), constituting 6.58% of the city. Industrial

developments occupy around 65 hectares (160 acres), where most of the handloom spinning, silk

weaving, dyeing and rice production units are located. 89.06 hectares (220.1 acres) are used for

transport and communications infrastructure, including bus stands, roads, streets and railways

lines.[66]

Economy

Silk Sari Weaving at Kanchipuram

The major occupations of Kanchipuram are silk sari weaving and agriculture.[15] As of 2008, an

estimated 5,000 families were involved in sari production.[67] The main industries are cotton

production, light machinery and electrical goods manufacturing, and food processing. [68] There

are 25 silk and cotton yarn industries, 60 dyeing units, 50 rice mills and 42 other industries in the

Kanchipuram.[69] Another important occupation is tourism and service related segments like

hotels, restaurants and local transportation.[69]

Agriculture in Kanchipuram

Kanchipuram is a traditional centre of silk weaving and handloom industries for producing

Kanchipuram Saris. The industry is worth 100 cr (US$18.18 million), but the weaving

community suffers from poor marketing techniques and duplicate market players.[67] In 2005,

"Kanchipuram Silk Sarees" received the Geographical Indication tag, the first product in India to

carry this label.[70][71] The silk trade in Kanchipuram began when King Raja Raja Chola I (985–

1014) invited weavers to migrate to Kanchi.[67] The craft increased with the mass migration from

Andhra Pradesh in the 15th century during the Vijayanagara rule.[67] The city was razed during

the French siege of 1757, but weaving re-emerged in the late 18th century.[67]

All major nationalized banks such as State Bank of India, Indian Bank, Canara Bank, Punjab

National Bank, Dena Bank and private banks like ICICI Bank have branches in Kanchipuram.[72]

All these banks have their Automated teller machines located in various parts of the city.[72]

Human rights

Kanchipuram has a rate than the national average of child labour and bonded labour. [73][74] The

local administration is accused of aiding child labour by opening night schools in Kanchipuram

from 1999.[73] There is an estimated 40,000 to 50,000 child workers in Kanchipuram compared to

85,000 in the same industry in Varanasi.[74] Children are commonly traded for sums of between

10,000 and 15,000 (200 – 300$) and there are cases where whole families are held in bondage. [74]

Child labour is prohibited in India by the Children (Pledging of Labour) Act and Child Labour

(Prohibition and Regulation) Act, but these laws are not strictly enforced.[75]

Transport, communication and utility services

An intercity state bus to Kanchipuram

Kanchipuram is most easily accessible by road. The Chennai – Bangalore National Highway,

NH 4 passes the outskirts of the city.[76] Daily bus services are provided by the Tamil Nadu State

Transport Corporation to and from Chennai, Bangalore, Villupuram, Tirupathi, Thiruthani,

Tiruvannamalai, Vellore, Salem, Coimbatore and Pondicherry.[77] There are two major bus routes

to Chennai, one connecting via Guindy and the other via Tambaram.[77] Local bus services are

provided by The Villupuram division of Tamil Nadu State Transport Corporation.[78] As of 2006,

there were a total of 403 buses for 191 routes operated out of the city.[79]

The city is also connected the railway network. The Chengalpet – Arakkonam railway line

passes through Kanchipuram and travellers can access services to those destinations..[80] Daily

trains are provided to Pondicherry and Tirupathi, and there is a weekly express train to Madurai

and a bi-weekly express train to Nagercoil.[81] Two passenger trains from both sides of

Chengalpattu and Arakkonam pass via Kanchipuram.[77][81]

The nearest domestic as well as international airport is Chennai International Airport, located at a

distance of 72 km from the city.

Telephone and broadband internet services are provided by Bharat Sanchar Nigam Limited

(BSNL), India's state-owned telecom and internet services provider.[82] Electricity supply is

regulated and distributed by the Tamil Nadu Electricity Board (TNEB).[83] Water supply is

provided by the Kanchipuram municipality; supplies are drawn from subterranean springs of

Vegavati river.[15] The head works is located at Orikkai, Thiruparkadal and St. Vegavathy, and

distributed through overhead tanks with a total capacity of 9.8 litres (2.2 imperial gallons).[84]

About 55 tonnes of solid waste are collected from the city daily at five collection points covering

the whole of the city.[85] The sewage system in the city was implemented in 1975; Kanchipuram

was identified as one of the hyper endemic cities in 1970. Underground drainage covers 82% of

roads in the city, and is divided into east and west zones for internal administration.[86]

Education

See also: List of schools and colleges in Kancheepuram

Kanchipuram is traditionally a centre of religious education for the Hindu, [3][4] Jainism[5] and

Buddhism faiths.[5]. The Buddhist monasteries acted as nucleus of the Buddhist educational

system. With the gradual resurrection of Hinduism during the reign of Mahendra Varman I, the

Hindu educational system gained prominence with Sanskrit emerging as the official language.[5]

As of 2011 Kanchipuram has 49 registered schools, 16 of which are run by the city municipality.[87] The district administration opened night schools for educating children employed in the silk

weaving industry – as of December 2001, these schools together were educating 127 people and

260 registered students from September 1999.[73]Larsen and Tubro inaugurated the first rail

construction training centre in India at Kanchipuram on May 24, 2012, that can train 300

technicians and 180 middle level managers and engineers each year.[88] Sri Chandrasekharendra

Saraswathi Viswa Mahavidyalaya and Chettinad Academy of Research and Education (CARE)

are the two Deemed universities present in Kanchipuram.[89]

Kanchipuram is home to one of the four Indian Institute of Information of Technology, a public

private partnered institute, offering under graduate and post graduate programs in information

technology.[90] The city has two medical colleges – Arignar Anna Memorial Cancer Institute and

Hospital, established in 1969 is operated by the Department of Health, Government of Tamil

Nadu [91] and the privately owned Meenakshi Medical College.[92] The city has 6 engineering

colleges[93], 3 polytechnic institutes and 6 arts and science colleges.[94]

Religion

Buddhism

Bodhidharma is believed to have spread Zen school of Buddhism from India to China

Buddhism is believed to have flourished in Kanchipuram between the 1st and 5th centuries. [95]

Some notable Buddhists associated with Kanchipuram are Āryadeva (2–3rd centuries) – a

successor of Nāgārjuna of Nalanda University, Dignaga and the Pali commentators Buddhaghosa

and Dhammapala.[96] According to a popular tradition, Bodhidharma, a 5th – 6th century

Buddhist monk and founder of Shaolin Kung Fu was the third son of a Pallava king from

Kanchipuram.[97] However, other traditions ascribe his origins to other places in Asia.[98]

Jainism

It is thought that Jainism was introduced into Kanchipuram by Kunda Kundacharya (1st

century).[96] Jainism spread to the city after the defeat of Buddhists by Akalanka (3rd century)

after prolonged debates. Kalbhras, the rulers of Kanchipuram before the Pallavas, followed

Jainism which gained popularity from royal patronage.[96] The Pallava kings, Simhavishnu,

Mahendra Varman and Simhavarman (550–560) followed Jainism, until the advent of

Nayanmars and Azhwars during the 6th and 7th centuries.[96]Mahendravarman I converted from

Jainism to Hinduism under the influence of the Naynamar, Appar, was the turning point in the

religious geography.[96] The two sects of Hinduism, Saivism and Vaishnavism were revived

under the influence of Adi Sankara and Ramanuja respectively.[63][99] Later Cholas and

Vijayanagara kings tolerated Jainism, and the religion was still practiced in in Kanchi.[96]

Trilokyanatha/Chandraprabha temple is a twin Jain temple that has inscriptions from Pallava

king, Narasimhavarman II and the Chola kings Rajendra Chola I, Kulothunga Chola I and

Vikrama Chola, and the Kanarese inscriptions of Krishnadevaraya. The temple is maintained by

Tamil Nadu archaeological department.[100]

Hinduism

Main article: List of temples in Kanchipuram

Ekambareswarar temple – the largest temple in the city

Hindus regard Kanchipuram to be one of the seven holiest cities in India. According to

Hinduism, a kṣetra is a sacred ground, a field of active power, and a place where final

attainment, or moksha, can be obtained. The Garuda Purana says that seven cities, including

Kanchipuram are providers of moksha.[63] The city is considered a pilgrimage site for both

Saivites and Vaishnavites.[63]

Ekambareswarar Temple in northern Kanchipuram, dedicated to Shiva, is the largest temple in

the city.[101] Its gateway tower, or gopuram, is 59 metres (194 ft) tall, making it one the tallest

temple towers in India.[102] The temple is one of five called Pancha Bhoota Stalams, which

represent the manifestation of the five prime elements of nature; land, water, air, sky, and fire. [103]

Ekambareswarar temple temple represents earth.[103]

Kailasanathar Temple, dedicated to Shiva and built by the Pallavas, is the oldest Hindu temple in

existence and is declared an archaeological monument by the Archaeological Survey of India. It

has a series of cells with sculptures inside.[104] In the Kamakshi Amman Temple, goddess Parvati

is depicted in the form of a yantra, Chakra or peetam (basement). In this temple, the yantra is

placed in front of the deity.[105] Adi Sankara is closely associated with this temple and is believed

to have established the Kanchi matha after this temple.[106]

Muktheeswarar Temple, built by Nandivarman Pallava II (720–796)[107] and Iravatanesvara

Temple built by Narasimhavarman Pallava II (720–728) are the other Shiva temples from the

Pallava period. Kachi Metrali – Karchapeswarar Temple,[104] Onakanthan Tali,[107] Kachi

Anekatangapadam,[107] Kuranganilmuttam,[108] and Karaithirunathar Temple in Tirukalimedu are

the Shiva temples in the city reverred in Tevaram, the Tamil Saiva canonical work of the 7th-8th

century.

Sculpted pillars and stone chain in Varadarajar temple

Kumarakottam Temple, dedicated to Muruga, is located between the Ekambareswarar temple

and Kamakshi Amman temple, leading to the cult of Somaskanda (Skanda, the child between

Shiva and Parvati). Kandapuranam, the Tamil religious work on Muruga, translated from

Sanskrit Skandapurana, was composed in 1625 by Kachiappa Shivacharya in the temple.[109]

Varadharaja Perumal Temple, dedicated to Vishnu and covering 23 acres (93,000 m2), is the

largest Vishnu temple in Kanchipuram. It was built by the Cholas in 1053 and was expanded

during the reigns of Kulottunga Chola I (1079–1120) and Vikrama Chola (1118–1135). It is one

of the divyadesams, the 108 holy abodes of Vishnu. The temple features carved lizards, one

platted with gold and another with silver, over the sanctum.[110]Clive of India is said to have

presented an emerald necklace to the temple. It is called the Clive Makarakandi and is still used

to decorate the deity on ceremonial occasions.[31]

Tiru Parameswara Vinnagaram is the birthplace of the azhwar saint, Poigai Alvar.[111] The central

shrine has a three-tier shrine, one over the other, with Vishnu depicted in each of them. [111] The

corridor around the sanctum has a series of sculptures depicting the Pallava rule and conquest.[111]

It is the oldest Vishnu temple in the city and was built by the Pallava king Paramesvaravarman II

(728–731).[111]

Ashtabujakaram, Tiruvekkaa, Tiruththanka, Tiruvelukkai, Ulagalantha Perumal Temple, Tiru

pavla vannam, Pandava Thoothar Perumal Temple are among the divyadesam, the 108 famous

temples of Vishnu in the city.[112] There are a five other divyadesams, three inside the Ulagalantha

Perumal temple, one each in Kamakshi Amman Temple and Ekambareswarar Temple.[113]

The Kanchi Matha is a Hindu monastic institution, whose official history states that it was

founded by Adi Sankara of Kaladi, tracing its history back to the fifth century BCE.[114][115][116] A

related claim is that Adi Sankara came to Kanchipuram, and that he established the Kanchi mutt

named "Dakshina Moolamnaya Sarvagnya Sri Kanchi Kamakoti Peetam" in a position of

supremacy, namely Sarvagnya Peetha, over the other mathas (religious institutions) of the

subcontinent, before his death there.[116][117] Other historical accounts state that the mutt was

established probably in the 18th century in Kumbakonam, as a branch of the Sringeri Matha, and

that it declared itself independent.[115]

Another Mutt which was famous in ancient times was the Upanishad Bramham Mutt, located

near Kailasanathar temple, Kanchipuram. It has the Mahasamadhi of Upanishad Bramham, a

saint who wrote commentaries on all the major upanishads in Hinduism. It is said tha the great

Sage, Sadasiva Brahmendra took to sanyasa at this mutt.

Other religions

The city has two mosques; one near the Ekambareswarar temple was built during the rule of

Nawab of Arcot in the 17th century, and another near the Vaikunta Perumal temple shares a

common tank with the Hindu temple. Muslims take part in the festivals of the Varadarajaswamy

temple.[118] Christ Church is the oldest Christian church in the city. It was built by a British man

named Mclean in 1921. The church is built in Scottish style brick structure with arches and

pillars.[118]

A restoration feat

T.S. SUBRAMANIAN

The Archaeological Survey of India restores to their original grandeur the vimanas of three

Pallava temples in Kancheepuram.

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF INDIA

The Kailasanatha temple in Kancheepuram with the restored vimana and the row of

devakulikas, at left.

IN a massive conservation effort, the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) has restored to their

original grandeur the vimanas (structures built over the sanctum sanctorum) of three Pallava-

period temples in Kancheepuram, about 80 km from Chennai. Two of these — the Kailasanatha

temple and the Iravatanesvara temple — were built by Narasimhavarman II, who ruled between

A.D. 700 and 728. He also built the famed Shore Temple at Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram)

near Chennai. The third, the Vaikunta Perumal temple, was built by Nandivarman II (circa A.D.

736-769) and is of great historical and archaeological interest.

All the three temples are built of sandstone. The Kailasanatha temple is the biggest sandstone

temple in the world, according to K.T. Narasimhan, Superintending Archaeologist, ASI (Chennai

Circle), who led the conservation team which began work in 1999. Its other unique feature is the

58 ``devakulikas'' (mini-shrines) that run round the main temple. They had frescoes that

portrayed scenes from the Sivalila and sculptures of Uma Mahesvara, Parvati, Ganapati and

Kartikeya, among others. The inscriptions in Pallava grantha on the temple walls include the

various titles of Narasimhavarman II, such as Rajasimhan, Ajiranakanta, Srithara, Ranathira and

Kshatriya Simhesvara.

K. GAJENDRAN

At the Iravatanesvara temple. The wall of the mantapam, with the lamp niches filled with

brickbats allegedly during earlier conservation efforts.

Narasimhan said the sculptors fully understood the fragile nature of sandstone, and they placed

huge sandstone blocks one on top of the other and then chiselled them into shape. ``The walls of

the vimana and the attached shrines are a veritable treasure house of Saivite iconographic forms,''

said K.R. Srinivasan, former Deputy Director-General of the ASI, in an article ``Early

Tondainadu Style, c. A.D. 650-800, Pallavas of Kanci, Phase I'', published in the Encyclopaedia

of Indian Temple Architecture, South India, Lower Dravidadesa, 200 B.C.-A.D. 1324. The book,

edited by Michael W. Meister, was published in 1999 by the American Institute of Indian

Studies.

States Srinivasan: ``This is the richest of all Pallava shrines in terms of figural decoration.

Sculptures occur not only in the main niches... but also on their flanks. They not only are inside

the attached cardinal and corner shrines, but also are on each shrine's outer walls... Its vimana,

though somewhat squat compared with the Shore Temple, and overly carved with figural

ornamentation, is still very impressive.'' Conservation work relating to the vimana of the

Kailasanatha temple involved lifting three shala stones, each weighing several tonnes, which had

fallen to the ground a few centuries earlier, and positioning them in their sockets, said

Narasimhan.

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SURVEY OF INDIA

The wall after restoration.

The ASI team discovered a sculpture of Vishnu with four hands (chaturbhuja) in the standing

position and flanked by rishis (sages) and rishipatnis (spouses of rishis), when it demolished a

brick platform built during British rule between two talas (storeys) of the vimana. The fact that

Rajasimhan was a staunch Saivite made this an interesting discovery.

The platform has been built between the antharatala (that is, vestibule) and the first tala to

prevent the collapse of another architectural member called karnakostha. ``Our research showed

that the platform was accretionary and unwanted. So it was removed carefully. To our surprise,

we exposed many architectural features of the first tala and the beautiful standing Vishnu,'' said

Narasimhan. Conservation work on the main vimana, right from the first tala to the stupi (crown)

stage, was complete, he added.

The inner walls of the sanctum sanctorum were given a coat of lime paste and the Somaskanda

panel on the rear wall was restored to its original beauty. In fact, the Somaskanda panel,

depicting Siva and Parvati with Karthikeya sitting on Parvati's lap, is the main iconographic

feature of the temples built by Rajasimhan. A small passage around the sanctum sanctorum,

which leads to the sorga vasal (door to heaven), was found to be damaged and was restored by

strengthening its walls and ceiling.

The team uncovered rows of partially hidden sculptures of resting lions, the trademark of

Rajasimhan's reign, when 14 buttress walls supporting the long black wall of the 58 devakulikas

were pulled down. The buttress walls were erected because it was feared that the devakulikas

would collapse. A scientific study showed that the apprehension was incorrect, said Narasimhan.

The foundation of the devakulikas was strengthened and the buttress walls were removed ``in

one stroke'', exposing the rows of lions.

At the Vaikunta Perumal temple, conservation work on the uniquely three-storeyed vimana

posed a challenge, according to P. Chandrasekaran, Conservation Assistant, ASI, Kancheepuram

sub-circle. Several panels of exquisite sculptures, depicting Vishnu flying on a Garuda, the

Narasimha avatar and so on, were restored to their original splendour. The restoration work,

which began in the mid-1990s, has been so meticulous that even the ornamentation on the stucco

figures on the vimana stand out in bold relief.

The Vaikunta Perumal temple is the biggest sandstone temple built in the post-Rajasimha period.

It was built by Paramesvaravarman alias Nandivarman II (circa 736-796 A.D.) and is dedicated

to Vishnu. Here, Nandivaraman II achieved the ambition of his forefather Narasimhavarman I by

building a chaturasra tri-tala (that is, square, three-storeyed) functional vimana to enshrine

Vishnu in three forms _ standing, (sthanaka), sitting (asana) and reclining (sayana). The three

storeys were formed by a system of three concentric walls forming three concentric squares.

Tamil Vaishnavite saint-poets, the Alwars, have praised the temple as Paramesvara Vinnagaram.

According to ASI officials, the most significant feature of the temple is the depiction of the

historical events that led to Nandivarman II ascending the throne. The events are sculpted in the

square panels on the wall of the inner cloister of the temple mantapa. The aswamedha yagna

performed by some Pallava kings has been beautifully sculpted — a rarity in South Indian art.

There is a sculpture of a visiting Chinese pilgrim too. Divisions of the army — footmen,

elephants and horses — are found in the panels.

At the Iravatanesvara temple, while deplastering the inner and outer walls of the temple

mantapam the ASI team stumbled on lamp niches, which had been filled with brickbats allegedly

during earlier conservation efforts. The niches were found to be in beautiful patterns.

K. PICHUMANI

K.T. Narasimhan, Superintending Archaeologist, ASI, Chennai circle.

This temple, which is much smaller than the Kailasanatha temple, has been conserved in all

aspects — the dead plaster on the vimana has been removed, it has been `water-tightened' and

the stucco figures on it have been strengthened. The work began last year and was completed in

about a year's time. The sculpted image of Dakshinamurthy on the vimana and that of Uma

Mahesvara on a rishabha (bull) were also restored.

The conservation and restoration work at the temples was done using a paste of lime and fine

river sand. The sand was mixed with lime and ground to a fine paste along with gallnut, jaggery,

`vilvam' fruit, neem gum and kathazhai (aloe).

The Kailasanatha Temple today wears a new look and it has been fenced in. The Nandi in front

has been cleaned up and the road leading to the temple is being widened after clearing it of

encroachments. The dilapidated temple tank would be repaired, said Chandrasekaran.

Conservation work is also under way in the shrine dedicated to Mahendravarman in front of the

main temple. This shrine, with a vimana, was built by Mahendravarman III.

Indian Architecture Next Frontier for CONA, Our Soon-to-Launch Research Tool

By Murtha Baca | Published: September 12, 2012

Kailasanatha temple, Kanchi, Chingleput District, Chennai. View from the northeast. Patron:

Rajasimhavarman. Circa 695–722 C.E. Granite. Courtesy of the Center for Art and Archaeology,

American Institute of Indian Studies

Diagram from the CA&A photo archives pairing an elevation of a Hindu temple with associated

architectural terms. Courtesy of the Center for Art and Archaeology, American Institute of

Indian Studies.