Ten Northwest Long-Distance Trail Adventures

A Publication of Washington Trails Association | wta.org

Epic Trails

PCT • PNTKettle CrestSpider Loop

Boundary Trailand More!

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Epic Trails Plan Your First Long-Distance Hike Advice from experienced long-distance hikers to help you plan a successful trek on the Pacific Crest Trail, Wonderland Trail or other multi-week route. » p.4

Are Your Ready for the Bigtime? Take this hiking quiz and see if you’re ready to take on one of Washington’s big trails. » p.8

Lessons from the Trail Fellow hikers share their hard lessons learned on trail so you don’t make the same mistakes. » p.10

Hike It!1. Boundary Trail Journey through Washington’s Pasayten Wilderness. » p.12

2. Columbia Plateau Trail Stretch your legs on this 134-mile rail trail. » p.14

3. Loowit Trail Explore the volcanic landscape around Mount St. Helens . » p.16

4. Kettle Crest Trail Enjoy wildflowers and wildlife in Eastern Washington. » p.18

5. Olympic Coast Trail Roam the rugged northern section of Washington’s coast. » p.20

6. Pacific Crest Trail Sample the PCT from the Columbia River to Indian Heaven. » p.22

7. Pacific Northwest Trail Take a 1,230-mile trek from the Rockies to the Pacific. » p.24

8. Spider Loop Trail Go for big scenery in the Glacier Peak Wilderness. » p.26

9. William O. Douglas Trail Hike from Yakima’s shrub-steppe to Mount Rainier. » p.28

10. Wonderland Trail Washington’s signature loop around Mount Rainier. » p.30

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SPECIAL FEATURE

COVER: A PCT hiker stops to enjoy the wide panorama on Rock Pass in the Paysayten Wilderness. Photo by Andy Porter

Hiking Lessons fromYou may have read the book. Perhaps you saw

the movie. If neither, you likely know someone who read the book or saw the movie. Wild is the personal story of a young woman who suffers a dramatic loss in her life and decides that the key to her recovery is to hike the Pacific Crest Trail—a bold decision by someone who has never backpacked before. She buys everything she thinks she needs, leaves everything she knows behind and travels across the country to begin hiking. And then the problems begin. Had the author taken the time to prepare herself for her journey, some of the challenges she faced could have been avoided.

Know Your GearBefore hitting the trail, make sure you’re familiar with your

gear. This can save you from problems and frustrations on the trail, where you don’t have instruction books or (perhaps) anyone around to help you. Rehearse with your gear at home. Set up your tent and learn how the fly goes on. Practice cooking (making sure you have the correct fuel for your stove), filtering water and packing (without overpacking) your bag.

Buy the Right Size BootsYour feet swell when you hike. Combine that with extra-

thick hiking socks over long miles, and your feet are going to protest, most often resulting in cramps, pain and blisters—bad news if you still have several days, or weeks, to go. When selecting your hiking boots, try them on with the socks you plan to wear (including liners) and make sure you have a little “swelling room” by sizing up at least half a size.

Sample and Vary Your MenuNothing can ruin a long-distance trip quicker than poor

menu planning. Sample foods before getting on the trail and choose the ones you’re going to want to eat. Select a variety of foods so you’re not eating the same things every day or two and quickly tiring of some items. Be sure the foods you select are providing the daily calories you need to keep you fueled up and avoiding the “bonk.”

Carry a Map and CompassThere are lots of tech gadgets out there to help get you

from point A to point B, but none should take the place of a good ol’ map and compass. A map will never run low on batteries, and a compass will still function reliably in the cold

or when soaked by rain. Know how to use both to help you identify your location using the area’s topography. This can be invaluable if you wake up and find the trail covered in snow.

Stay HydratedDehydration can happen fast in high mountain elevations

if you don’t drink regularly and can result in problems ranging from annoying to life-threatening. Before setting out, study your map (and any other resources) to learn where your water sources will be. If possible, try to camp near water. If hiking long stretches between water sources, carry extra in a collapsible bladder and keep an “emergency bottle” in reserve.

Be prepared for weatherAlways be prepared for changes in the weather. Carry a hat,

sunglasses and sunscreen for the warm days and rain gear and a pack cover for when the weather goes south. This includes bringing along the appropriate apparel items for layering up and down as temperatures change from morning to afternoon to evening. Keep these items easily accessible if you need to react quickly to sudden weather changes.

Ford a RiverIf you’re required to ford a bridgeless river, take the proper

precautions. Before charging across, scout up and down the river for the safest crossing, which is often where the river is widest and slowest. Keep your boots on (or change into water shoes), and release your pack’s waist and sternum straps in case you need to ditch it quickly if you fall in. It’s better to chase down wet gear than have wet gear drag you down.

Leave No TraceWhenever possible, select established campsites. When not

possible, choose a camp area that will have minimal impact on the landscape, such as a durable surface like dirt, rock or snow. Abide by the rule of 200, keeping your camp, cooking and toilet areas at least 200 feet from trails and water. Always pack out what you pack in, and never throw smoldering items—matches, campfire coals, etc.—into the brush.

ENJOY THE TRIPRemember that while long-distance hiking can be

punishing, it is not punishment. You’re hiking to enjoy the outdoors, breathe the fresh air, and view wild, untamed country. Despite the challenges, every day will have rewards, big and small. You may have to look harder for some, but they’re out there, waiting to be discovered.

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AN INTRODUCTION TO LONG-DISTANCE HIKING }}}

So, you’re a frequent hiker, and you

even try to get in a few weekend

backpacks every summer. But that

book you recently read or photo you

saw now has you interested in taking it

up a notch. After all, “If they can do it, I

can do it.” But before you run out and try

to join hiking’s varsity squad, you need

to be prepared.

One of the biggest misconceptions about long-distance hikes is that they are just like a regular backpack, only longer. Yes and no. Unlike a weekender in the Enchantments, a long-distance hike (we’re talking a week minimum to more than a month; up to six months if you’re looking at the entire PCT) is an exercise in endurance and perseverance, both mentally and physically.

But it’s not all about pain and suffering. A long-distance hike offers an exciting opportunity to get away from it all and experience wilderness in a way that shorter trips often don’t allow. If you’re out for just a few days, you often have to turn around and head home just as you’re getting your trail groove on. But a long trip puts you out in big, wide-open nature where your everyday life fades into the background and your only cares become the next mountain view, the next cool water source and the next choice campsite. But in order to pull off a successful long-distance or thru-hike, you need to plan and prepare with a goal in mind but be able to take any curveballs that come your way.

PCT hiker at Rock Pass in the Pasayten Wilderness. Photo by Andy Porter

By Eli Boschetto

MIND OVER MATTERYou don’t need to be an Olympic triathlete to do a long-distance hike. Just about anyone in

good health with moderate fitness can hike a few hundred miles. One of the keys to a successful long-distance hike is being open and flexible enough to deal with whatever nature, or your own body, throws at you. You will get hot; you will get cold; you will get tired; you will get wet; you will get dirty; you will get lonely; you will get bitten by bugs; you may get sunburned; you may get rained on; you may get blisters; you may get hurt; you may get scared; you may cry. While that sounds like a lot of detractions, it is nothing to be ashamed of when it happens—and it will happen. Even the most ardent hikers get discouraged or break down from time to time.

Often, the hardest part of an extended journey is the first week or two. That’s when your legs are fresh (despite how many conditioning hikes you’ve taken), your pack is the heaviest and your end goal is a million miles away. But the only way you’re going to see that far-off wilderness is to put one foot in front of the other and do it. You will quickly find that the panoramic views suddenly make your aches go away, that refreshing drinks from icy streams reenergize you when you’re tired and that freeze-dried stroganoff tastes really good when noshing in a high lake basin with sunset alpenglow lighting up the peaks around you.

plan for successOnce you have identified the long-distance trail you want to hike, you need to start planning.

This involves researching the trail, planning your itinerary, obtaining any necessary permits, identifying potential hiking companions and getting yourself into shape. Depending on the length of your selected trail, and the amount of time you plan on hiking, this can be quite an endeavor—albeit a fun one that will doubtless get you even more excited for your trek.

DO YOUR RESEARCH: The best way to learn about the trail you’re interested in is to study guidebooks and websites and to purchase trail maps, making sure that they cover your entire route. Read blogs of other hikers who have hiked the trail and can offer insights and advice. If the trail has an interest group or forum, try connecting with other hikers for helpful information. If the trail you want to hike requires a permit, know the application dates and deadlines.

Hiking group on Mount Rainier’s Wonderland Trail. Photo by Colleen Ponto

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Lighten Your LoadYou don’t need to buy a new set of ultralight gear to go

on a long-distance hike. Cut weight from your regular gear by making just a few adjustments to what you usually carry.

q GEAR: Minimize the number of comfort items you’re packing along, especially electronics that require extra batteries. Choose items that can serve dual purposes: roll up your puffy jacket to serve as a pillow, and use your sleeping pad as a camp chair.

q FOOD: You should not skimp on food to cut weight, but instead choose lightweight foods that still supply the calories you need. Freeze-dried foods are lighter than dehydrated foods and require less water and cooking time to prepare. Repackage all food into ziptop baggies and avoid canned items to minimize trash (and often contain water, which also adds weight).

q WATER: Water is heavy, weighing in at 2.2 pounds per liter. On trail, carry only as much as you need (and a little extra) to get you to the next good water source. Instead of carrying a bulky water filter, opt for Aquamira water treatment drops or chlorine dioxide purification tablets. Both are effective without the icky taste of iodine.

q APPAREL: Pack less clothing. You can get away with as little as one extra set of socks and undergarments. Wear the first set for a few days until you start to get a little stinky, then switch to the other. Rinse out your dirty items in camp and let hang dry on your pack while you hike. Change out again after a few more days. Repeat.

q FOOTWEAR: Most popular long-distance trails are usually well-maintained so you can ditch the heavy mountaineering boots, which will quickly become lead weights on your feet. Choose a pair of light to midweight hikers that provide the support you need and supplement those with good trekking socks and ultralight liners.

q CAMERA: You definitely want to get photos of your adventure, but unless you’re snapping for National Geographic, you can leave the DSLR, extra lenses and tripod at home. Pack along a small bridge camera or just use your smartphone. There are plenty of cool apps for iPhones and Androids that let you get really creative with outdoor photography.

Watch your pack weight. Ditch unnecessary and frivolous additions and carefully

evaluate “luxury items.” Camp towels, pillows and entertainment items are nice to have, but all those creature comforts add up in pounds. Invest in the lightest versions you can find, consider alternate items or forego them altogether.

— Tami AsarsAuthor, Hiking the Wonderland Trail

T he Pacific Crest Trail is a place for personal reflection. I have had incredible experiences with the people

I’ve met along the way. And I have experienced peace and solitude in quiet places and triumph in the physical challenges. It gives the opportunity to escape everyday life and spend time in beautiful wilderness. But an important part of making one’s experience safe and enjoyable is proper preparation. The PCTA provides extensive planning information for new and experienced hikers. Learn how to prepare for the PCT experience of your lifetime.

— Liz BergeronPCTA Executive Director and CEO

PLAN YOUR ITINERARY: Start with how many days you want to be on the trail. If your hike will be over a few weeks, you will likely want to plan pretty specifically; if your hike with be over a few months, you can build in a lot more flexibility. Also consider: known water and camp locations, resupply points, trail conditions for the time of year you’re hiking and “zero” days. You want to plan an itinerary that is reasonable for you (and any companions) to achieve and gets you from start to finish in the time you have available—but still allows you the freedom to stop and photograph the flowers or enjoy a nice lakeside lunch. If you plan too aggressive an itinerary or too many daily miles, your hike will feel more like work than recreation.

GET IN TRAIL SHAPE: Nothing will prepare you for hiking like hiking. Once your itinerary is set and the other logistics are taken care of, start conditioning for your trek. Go out on practice hikes with a full pack. Be sure to add some grinders in there to build strength in your legs. Hit the gym or do a home workout to build back and core strength to help manage your pack weight and improve trail balance. Find the right boot–sock combination and get your feet used to working. By starting your trip physically, as well as mentally, prepared, you will feel much more confident about your endeavor and ready for the challenges ahead.

Pack SMARTPacking for a long-distance hike is much the same as packing for a

weekend hike, with just a little more thoughtfulness about what you want to carry. For a short weekend jaunt, you may be willing to lug a camp chair, bottle of merlot and fresh avocados with you. But after just a few days of starting a multi-week endeavor, you start thinking about every single thing in your pack and how it’s weighing you down.

REDUCE PACK WEIGHT: This doesn’t mean you have to break the bank to buy the latest ultralight hiking gear, cut the handle off your toothbrush and trim away spare inches of pack strapping. Look for ways to trim weight without compromising your comfort and safety, and don't overpack with extra apparel (see sidebar). If you’re going to be hiking a trail that offers resupply locations, take advantage of these to minimize

Remember that hiking a long-distance trail, such as the PCT, PNT or Wonderland,

is a journey unto itself. The completion of the trail should not come at the expense of your, or others', health and well-being.

Learn how to route-find with a map and compass, and carry maps that

cover a broad area. Consider any applicable smartphone apps for the trail you are hiking, such as the Halfmile app for the PCT or Green Trails’ Wonderland Mapp. Know the alternate routes and roads out to the nearest trailheads in the event of adverse conditions or personal health and safety needs.

Learn the basics of wilderness first aid, including how to prevent and treat

health concerns ranging from blisters and sunburns to muscle strain, hypothermia, tick bites and giardia.

Trust your own gut feeling, whether it pertains to river crossings, impending

weather or the sense of adverse conditions or critters (including people) nearby. Beware of group decision-making. If the way your group is going or the time of day they want to hike doesn’t feel right, do what you would if you were trekking solo or with a loved one. Others may change their direction and follow you—or not.

Consider how fast you hike and how often you take “zero” days when

deciding the duration of your hike. And understand that the exact timing of your hike can be affected by seasonal factors such as snowpack, river crossings and the availability of water.

PCT hikers, especially those covering California and Oregon, should be aware

that there have been more fires and less water available along the trail in recent years. Research which stove to use (if any) to minimize the risk of igniting a forest fire. Determine how much water to carry, along with where to access it, and how to get through long waterless stretches. Do not be dependent on Trail Magic water stashes.

Be safe and have one of the most amazing journeys of your lifetime!

Don’t believe that thru-hikers are superior to [other] hikers. The beauty of backpacking is that there are so many wonderful ways of doing it. Define your own hike: flip-flops, chunk hikes, section hikes, routes, multiple trails, continuous or not; get creative. And redefine your goals as you go, and acknowledge that sometimes goals change over the course of your hike. Allow yourself to grow and learn. Be curious about everything. Discover what brings you joy. The important thing is to get out on the trail.

— Joan “Hemlock” WestPCT section hiker, 2014

Joan “Hemlock” West on Glen Pass on the PCT, in California’s Sierra Nevada.

your food weight; if you’re going have access to lots of water, carry only what you need to get you from one source to the next, and time your breaks and camps to replenish your supply. Of course, cutting weight is not an excuse to discard essentials. You should still carry all of your Ten Essentials, including rain gear, first aid kit and a water filtration system.

INDULGE A LITTLE: On the flip side, there are some items that you may want to add to your pack that can help you recover from long miles and ensure that you enjoy your trip. Pack along a pair of lightweight camp shoes or sandals so you can let your feet escape your sweaty boots at the end of every hiking day. Carry a supply of treats in your food bag that you get to enjoy as your reward for reaching the next campsite. Yes, you want to watch your pack weight, but you still want to enjoy yourself.

Hike your own hikeFor most hikers, taking an epic long-distance trek is a once-in-a-lifetime

opportunity. Ask yourself what you hope to get out of your adventure, and make that a priority. If you like taking lakeside naps in the afternoons, then work that into your itinerary. If you like photographing wildflowers or identifying trees, then add extra time in your days for that. Don't feel like you need to be one with the crowd and that you’re required to hike a specific number of miles each day. Hiking is not a contest, and you have nothing to prove. Do what’s good for you. After all, you’re doing this for fun, not for punishment. Build in “zero” days to relax at special locations. Send yourself treats and fresh socks in your resupply packages. Carry a small journal for notes and lessons learned along the way. Greet fellow hikers and share experiences and trail beta. Take the ups with the downs, make discoveries and make friends but, above all, enjoy. Only then will you look back on your experience with fondness, as one that was truly worth the effort. è

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Study books, blogs and maps

Do youknow yourtrail skills?

Take a class

C. Are you leaving your hiking itinerary

with a friend or family member?

B. Can you hang a bear bag?

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When planning an epic long-distance trek, there are hundreds of decisions to make when it comes to preparation, choosing a hiking companion, sorting your gear and brushing up on trail skills. Take this quiz to see how ready you are to hit the big trails. If you reach a star («) you can move on to the next stage. When you complete all seven, you’re ready for the bigtime.

Learn MoreThe information offered in this article provides just a brief overview of some of the aspects of planning a long-distance hike. If you are planning an epic trek of your own, it is important that you seek out additional information and resources to help you prepare for and execute a successful trip.

Suggested ReadingThe Backpacker’s Field Manual: A comprehensive Guide to Mastering Backcountry Skills By Rick Curtis

Trail Tested: A Thru-Hiker’s Guide to Ultralight Hiking and Backpacking By Justin Lichter

Ultralight Backpackin’ Tips: 153 Amazing & Inexpensive Tips For Extremely Lightweight Camping By Mike Clelland

Hiking the Wonderland Trail: The Complete Guide to Mount Rainier's Premier Trail By Tami Asars

Yogi’s Pacific Crest Trail Handbook By Jackie McDonnell

Check out WTA's Trip Reports for

great trail info «

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We've all done it: pushed forward when we should have turned back, overloaded our packs or forgotten an essential.

When hikers make mistakes—and we all make them—those blunders usually teach us important lessons for future hikes—and often become something to laugh about later. But there’s no reason you have to develop your trail skills the hard way.

Learn from the experiences of these hikers who have generously shared lessons they’ve learned the hard way so you don't have to.

I underpacked food for a 4-day trip in the Enchantments. I was ravenous the entire time, and even though I’m a vegetarian the mountain goats started looking tasty!

LESSON: Pack enough food to stay fueled for your whole trip.

— Ingunn Markiewicz

My friend and I hiked down Granite Mountain in the dark because neither of us had packed a headlamp or any other kind of light source, and we hadn’t bothered to check the time of sunset.

LESSON: A head lamp or flashlight is one of the Ten Essentials.

— Louise Kornreich

I went for a dayhike wearing a cotton hoodie. The day started nice, but then it suddenly changed and started raining. By the time I returned, I was soaked and hypothermia started setting in.

LESSON: Wool, and some synthetics, will keep you warm when wet—and check the forecast!

— Christina R.

I tightened my hiking boots too much on a 20-mile dayhike. My feet got so hot, swollen and painful that I wanted to cut them off—figuratively speaking.

LESSON: Size up at least half a size for hiking footwear. Wear durable, breathable socks (liners help too), and don't over-tighten your boots.

— Ernesto Lopez

I was flicking mushrooms off the Mount Pugh Trail with my trekking pole. I came across a big cap in the trail with a few wasps on it and figured I'd flick it out of the way for the next hiker. Too late, I realized there was a nest underneath and suddenly numerous upset wasps were stinging me.

LESSON: Minimize your impact on nature. It may just bite back.

— Ben Lawson

Lessons from THE TRAIL

On a bust of a strenuous trip in the Necklace Valley, my poor pooch had rubbed his paw pads raw, developed blisters between his paw pads and suffered from a muscle strain that he's still getting expensive therapy for. The trip retired him from anything more than easy dayhikes.

LESSON: Consider trail conditions before bringing Fido.

— Ashley Mihle

I started a 10-day Olympics traverse with an 80-pound pack, most of which was food. At the end of the trip I still had more than a quarter of the food I had packed, which kept my pack heavy through the whole trip.

LESSON: Careful menu planning will help you avoid overpacking.

— James L.

I packed more than 60 pounds of camera gear to Tolmie Peak to shoot some sunset photos of Mount Rainier. I reached the top, got all set up and only then realized that I had left all of my memory cards at home on my desk!

LESSON: Make a gear checklist to ensure you don't forget anything. And carry backup memory cards!

— Randall Southam

My dog was carrying my water filter and bottles in his pack when a bull elk crossed the trail—and he was off! I was left with only a small amount of water and no way to purify more. Thankfully my dog was back the next morning.

LESSON: Wildlife encounters are just one of the great reasons to keep Fido on a leash. And keep important items with you.

— Sheryl Schmeling

During a SAR training course in the woods, my partner and I put down our packs and marked them with a bit of flagging. When we went back for our packs in the dark, we couldn't find them, resulting in a cold miserable night in the snow. In the morning we found our packs only 20 feet away.

LESSON: Reflective ties and straps can help you find your gear in the dark.

— David Johnson

The first time I went backpacking with my oldest son, I brought a 5-pound sledgehammer (hanging on the back of my pack) to drive the tent stakes into the ground.

LESSON: Lighten your load. Use a rock.

— Brian Warn

I felt smart about buying cheap bulk gloves from Costco for climbing Mount St. Helens. On the climb I realized I had grabbed two left-handed gloves.

LESSON: Check and test your new gear before heading out on trail.

— Vinay Kulkarni

When I was young, I was approached by a bear in the Yosemite backcountry. Not realizing that I was standing directly under the food bag my dad had hung, I picked up a big stick and pretended I was a tree while the bear paced around me. On the other side of camp my sister screamed, and the bear eventually went away.

LESSON: If approached by a black bear, speak softly and back away slowly. If it shows aggressive behavior to get food, let the bear have what it wants. Report the incident to a ranger.

— Jane GeddesIllustrations by

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TREK: BOUNDARY TRAIL DISTANCE: 80+ miles ELEVATION GAIN: 9,000 ft.

One of the biggest challenges of hiking the entire 80-plus-mile Boundary Trail is where to exit. The “official” ending descends to Ross Lake via the Castle Pass and Lightning Creek trails. However, this section receives little maintenance and is not recommended. From Three Forks Junction, one option heads south up the Middle Fork Pasayten Trail to exit via Slate Pass. Hiking out via the West Fork Pasayten Trail exits near Slate Peak. Two other options provide access to the Pacific Crest Trail via either Woody Pass or Holman Pass. From Holman Pass, longer options exist to hike over Devils Dome to Ross Lake or McMillan Park to Hwy 20.

HIKE: HORSESHOE BASIN DISTANCE: 12 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 1,500 ft.

Horseshoe Basin is the only portion of the Boundary Trail accessible to dayhikers. Due to the Irongate trailhead’s remote location, it is best to plan for at least a couple of days to hike this one. The route begins with a nice 5-mile hike to 7,200-foot Sunny Pass, the portal into Horseshoe Basin. Along the way you’ll hike through some pleasant forest and also dead timber from the Tripod Fire. You’ll want to continue at least another flat mile to Horseshoe Pass to put yourself in the midst of the immense flowery meadows. By autumn, most of the annoying insects will be gone, but in the summer season be prepared for mosquitoes.

BITS & PIECES Despite the Boundary Trail’s remote location, it is still possible to experience a portion of the trail as a dayhike or weekend overnight. Be careful—you’ll be tempted to do more.

DISTANCE: 80+ miles, depending on exit route

HIGHEST POINT: Apex Pass at 7,800 ft.

LOWEST POINT: Pasayten River at 3,900 ft.

TRIP TIME: 7 to 10 days

BEST SEASON: Mid-July through October

MAPS: Green Trails 18, 19, 20, 21, 50

PERMITS: NW Forest Pass for trailhead parking

INFORMATION: www.fs.usda.gov/activity/okawen/recreation/hiking

Boundary Trail Stats

The Trail: Starting at the Irongate trailhead west of Loomis—and doing the trip east to west—means reaching the hallowed meadows of Horseshoe Basin on the first day of your trip. You’ll reach the portal of 7,200-ft Sunny Pass at 5.2 miles, and the view of the vast meadows will be but an introduction to the scenic feast ahead. Camping is available at several places in the basin, but in late season Loudon Lake may be the only available water. From Horseshoe Basin, the Canadian border is just a mile away via easy cross-country travel. Continuing westward over mostly open terrain with views, the Tungsten Mine is reached at 21 miles. Several rusty mining relics can be found near the trail. When you reach Apex Pass a few miles farther on, you’re presented with your first views of craggy Cathedral Peak, unlike anything else in the Pasayten.

At 26 miles you’ll reach 7,600-ft Cathedral Pass, then head down to upper Cathedral Lake near the base of the impressive 8,360-ft Amphitheater Mountain. Camping is good here, and you’ll want time to savor the ambiance. If you’ve built in a layover day or have a few hours to spare, consider the extra few miles for the unmarked trail up the south side of Amphitheater Mountain. This horse trail goes nearly to the top, and the views include most of the Pasayten Wilderness.

Leaving the Cathedral Lakes behind, the views continue as you hike west, with bulky 8,685-ft Remmel Mountain being front and center. This is followed by a long descent to the log crossing over the Ashnola River at 38 miles. Across the river is a 2,000-ft climb to more big meadows near 6,900-ft Peeve Pass at 42 miles.

Following the pass, trail conditions begin to deteriorate before it climbs right over the top of 7,240-ft Bunker Hill. Stop for lunch here before descending a bit more than 3,000 feet to the Pasayten River. Ford the river—a detour downstream may be necessary—then hike upstream for 7 miles to the site of the old Three Forks Cabin. Here is a pivotal trail junction where three streams of the Pasayten come together. Hiking out via the mostly forested Middle Fork Pasayten River is the shortest way out to the Slate Pass trailhead (Harts Pass area, 80 hiking miles from Irongate).

Logistics: To hike the BT in its entirety, you’ll need to consider the logistics to accomplish this 80-plus-mile one-way hike. There are several possibilities for arranging transportation—find a friend to assist with shuttling, or do a key swap with another hiker going the opposite direction. Classic Mountain Cabby in Twisp can assist with transportation to the Irongate trailhead.è

CLIMATE: Summer days are typically warm to hot; thunderstorms can be common, so pack your rain gear. Fall days begin to cool off. Evenings can get cool to cold. Snow can occur at any time of year.

WILDLIFE: Watch for the usual mountain dwellers: deer, mountain goats, marmots, squirrels and pikas. Elk and moose are occasionally spotted in the area, but bear sightings are infrequent.

GUIDEBOOK: Backpacking Washington by Douglas Lorain details the Boundary Trail in two portions, the east side and the west side.

BACKPACK: CATHEDRAL PASS DISTANCE: 44 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 4,000+ ft.

The 44-mile loop through Cathedral Pass offers some of the best scenery that the Boundary Trail has to offer. Start at the 30-Mile trailhead on the Chewuch River out of Winthrop. Hike 10 easy miles along the river, then make the climb to 6,870-ft Remmel Lake and many camps. Views of surrounding peaks will keep you entranced. Continue 6 more miles to circle Amphitheater Mountain, passing upper Cathedral Lake to 7,600-ft Cathedral Pass. Hike 5 miles east in mostly open terrain to Tungsten Mine, then close the loop by hiking 6 miles down the Tungsten Trail, then finish back down the Chewuch River.

EXPLORE MORE:

If you like to get off the trail and scramble easy summits, the Boundary Trail was made for you. Armstrong Mountain (8,100 ft) is a long mile from Horseshoe Basin and takes you right to the U.S.–Canadian border. Haig Mountain is higher, but Teapot Dome (7,610 ft) is just a half mile from the Boundary Trail. Apex Mountain (8,300 ft) is almost mandatory, given the legendary views of Cathedral Peak. Bald Mountain (7,930 ft) from the 7,100-foot pass east of the Ashnola River and Sheep Mountain (8,275 ft) from Peeve Pass will each take at least a few hours of your time.

Hiking the Boundary Trail (BT) is an adventure on many a hiker’s bucket list. The trail spans the width of the Pasayten Wilderness and is part of the much larger Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail. The combination of stunning scenery and lack of crowds is one of the BT’s most enticing aspects—especially in autumn, when colors are changing, temperatures are cooling and bugs are gone. A number of places along the trail are so special that you’ll have the images etched into your memory for years to come.

7,500 ft.

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Irongate TH

Sunny Pass

Horseshoe Basin

Loudon LakeTeapot D

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Tungsten Mine

Apex Pass

Cathedral Pass

Upper Cathedral Lake

Ashnola River

Peeve Pass

Bunker Hill

Pasayten River

Three Forks

Robinson Pass

Slate Pass

0 mi. 10 mi. 20 mi. 30 mi. 40 mi. 50 mi. 60 mi. 70 mi. 80 mi.

By Charles Hickenbottom | Photos by Marc Dilley

The Boundary Trail from Bunker Hill to all exits west has deteriorated badly due to wildfires and erosion. Some routefinding may be necessary. For more info, visit wta.org/go-hiking/hikes/boundary-trail-1.

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HIKE: AMBER LAKE DISTANCE: 15 miles ELEVATION GAIN: Minimal

South of Cheney, the CPT passes through a section of the 18,000-acre Turnbull National Wildlife Refuge that is otherwise inaccessible to the public. For a longer dayhike, start at the popular angling waters of Amber Lake, amble north through aspens and plateau shrubs—dogwood, sumac and currant. In contrast to much of the rest of its length, the CPT here passes through the ponderosa pine belt of Eastern Washington; these spicy-scented evergreens provide cover for mule deer and a large population of elk. Moose frequent the shallow marshes of the refuge’s interior, as do a variety of waterfowl. Return by the same route.

HIKE: SNAKE RIVER DISTANCE: 6 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 150 ft.

The southern terminus of the Columbia Plateau surveys the stark, scalloped Snake River country of southeast Washington. Pioneer John Mullan scratched out a wagon road here in the middle of the 19th century; the rail line sometimes runs on top of the old wagon road, sometimes paralleling it, offering an added bit of history. For a pleasant stroll for all ages, follow the east shore of the Snake River and admire anglers—both avian and human—at work in the shadeless landscape. Most foot travelers turn around at Burr Canyon Road; beyond here, the railroad ballast begins to bear down on hikers’ boots.

BITS & PIECES While you can't hike the Columbia Plateau Trail (easily) from end-to-end, there are several options for exploring the northern and southern reaches of this historic thoroughfare.

DISTANCE: 134 miles (38 miles for day use)

HIGHEST POINT: Turnbull Refuge at 2,280 ft.

LOWEST POINT: Snake River at 600 ft.

TRIP TIME: day use only

BEST SEASON: October – May

MAPS: WA State Parks Columbia Plateau

PERMITS: Discover Pass

INFORMATION: parks.wa.gov

CLIMATE: The driest part of the state, the Columbia Plateau sees a scant 7 inches of rain annually in some places. Summers can be mercilessly hot in the largely shade-free environs, while winters often see only a dusting of wind-blown snow.

WILDLIFE: Watch for mule deer, moose, elk, coyote, fox, beaver, badger, Hungarian partridge, chukar, quail and wild turkey.

GUIDEBOOK: Day Hike Eastern Washington, by Craig Romano, highlights several more hikes in the Columbia Plateau and Channeled Scablands areas.

CPT Stats

Hikers won’t find snowcapped spires or gemlike lakes, but they will find a sprawling expanse of sagebrush, soybean and wheat pitted with pothole ponds, all tucked away into Washington’s breadbasket. Even better, this arid landscape—straight out of a John Ford Western—can be accessed virtually year-round, making it a worthwhile destination for winter-weary hikers.

Through much of its length, the Columbia Plateau Trail (CPT) passes through the channeled scablands, the canyon-carved remains of cataclysmic ice-age floods some 15,000 to 30,000 years ago. Around the maze of basalt buttes and broad mesas, windblown loess (a rich but fragile topsoil produced by the erosion of lava flows) has, over the millennia, settled in drifts up to 10,000 feet thick. The result is some of the world’s best agricultural soil punctuated by arid, hardscrabble rock. And all around is the surprising hum of life: raptors perch on pioneer fenceposts searching for meals of voles and mice, coyotes and foxes saunter here and there in their own search for sustenance, and rodents—and rattlesnakes—move stealthily underfoot. Porcupines, beavers, turtles and turkeys find refuge here as well.

Spring is the ideal—some might say only—time to hike the CPT. Best is early March, when the February doldrums have burned off and tick season has yet to peak. The shallow rocky soils showcase some of springtime’s earliest blooms, including sagebrush buttercup and desert-parsley. Later in the spring, bright pink bitterroots daub the otherwise drab ground. In colder winter months, the low-angled winter sun casts grasses and rimrock in stark relief.

Paralleled by private lands and, at times, working rail lines, the route can be accessed from several trailheads along its length; currently, 23 miles between Lincoln County and Cheney and another 15 miles near Tri-Cities between Ice Harbor Dam and Snake River Junction are developed for public use. The remaining 96 miles between Martin Road southwest of Cheney and the Snake River near the Tri-Cities offer no services and are difficult to negotiate, particularly because two gated trestles require detours. It’s possible, with advance planning for off-route camps, to make a multiday traverse of the trail, but the railroad ballast—fist-sized crushed rock that composes the railbed—on much of the trail’s length is more friendly to a fat bike than hiking boots. Most hikers will stick to day trips, watching the antique mile markers tick by as they traverse the plateau.

HIKE: FISH LAKE DISTANCE: 7.5 miles ELEVATION GAIN: Minimal

The only stretch of the CPT improved with smooth blacktop, the 3.75-mile stretch from Fish Lake Regional Park to the Cheney trail-head makes a fine introduction to the trail for hikers, bikers and, in the winter, snow-shoers and Nordic skiers. Beginning at Fish Lake Regional Park, the rail-trail skirts the southeast side of the lake before chugging slowly but steadily uphill amidst ponderosa pines and basalt columns, past several large tracts of agricultural land. On either side, shallow “pothole” wetlands, scoured into the basalt bedrock by ancient floodwaters, provide oases for migratory birds and belie Eastern Washington’s dry reputation.

STAY HYDRATED:

Although an oasis for wildlife, the Columbia Plateau Trail accesses little in the way of amenities for two-legged travelers along most of the route. Bring plenty of water. The trail, shade-free for much of its length, can be mercilessly hot in the summer, and there is no water along the route.

T he Spokane, Portland and Seattle rail line represented the last major triumph of railroad magnate James J. Hill, the “Empire Builder.” Today, recreationists can survey the Inland Empire’s wetlands, working farms and Western-movie vistas on this 130-mile rail-trail through Eastern Washington’s

channeled scablands, now maintained as Columbia Plateau Trail State Park.

Hike & photosby Aaron Theisen

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BACKPACK: LOOWIT TRAIL DISTANCE: 30+ miles ELEVATION GAIN: 5,900 ft.

The Loowit Trail can be hiked from any number of connecting trailheads, in either clockwise or counter-clockwise direction. Plan your itinerary with specific overnight locations in mind in order to best manage the 11-mile camping restriction through the Blast Zone. Because of its exposure, with little vegetation, the Loowit Trail is constantly eroding and evolving. Carry a map and compass, and look for cairns and other markers leading the way. A detour has been established in the Sheep Canyon area where a recent washout took out a large portion of the trail. Take advantage of water sources, and use lots of sun protection.

HIKE: LOOWIT FALLS DISTANCE: 9.2 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 800 ft.

From the Windy Ridge Viewpoint, descend on the Truman Trail to the stark Plains of Abraham to pick up the Loowit Trail west. The route contours the lower flanks of the mountain, below the gaping crater above. At a junction, take the left fork for a short climb up the Sasquatch Steps to the Loowit Falls viewpoint. Because of the unstable nature of volcanic terrain, the Loowit Creek Canyon, including the falls, is constantly changing. As the slopes continue to erode, Loowit Falls may get larger, or eventually disappear. Loowit Falls can also be accessed from the Boundary Trail at Johnston Ridge. This option is a 15-mile round trip.

BITS & PIECES The 30-mile Loowit Trail can be hiked in as little as two days, making it an ideal weekend or long weekend getaway. For single-day trips, shorter trails visit some of the Loowit Trail's highlights.

DISTANCE: 30-mile loop + 1.7 to 6.1-mile access

HIGHEST POINT: Windy Pass at 4,900 ft.

LOWEST POINT: South Fork Toutle River at 3,300 ft.

TRIP TIME: 2 to 4 days

BEST SEASON: June through October

MAPS: Green Trails 364S

PERMITS: NW Forest Pass for trailhead parking

INFORMATION: www.fs.usda.gov/activity/mountsthelens/recreation/hiking

Loowit Trail Stats

ftentimes, hiking an epic, life-list trail is an exercise in planning and logistics. Not so with the Loowit Trail around Mount St. Helens. This 30-mile loop (not including connector trails) around Washington's renowned volcano can be done in as little as a long weekend, and offers hikers a chance to venture into a primal landscape, violently touched by nature.

Trailheads: Accessing the Loowit Trail can be done from six primary trailheads around the mountain, each with its own advantages depending on where you’re traveling from. From Johnston Ridge at the end of Spirit Lake Highway (SR-504), the loop can be accessed by a 6.1-mile connection using the Boundary and Truman Trails. The views of Mount St. Helens along this connector are stellar. On the east side, the Loowit Trail can be accessed via a 3-mile leg of the Truman Trail from the Windy Ridge Viewpoint on Road 25. Logistically, this is the best point for starting and finishing the loop. On the south side of the mountain, there are three trailheads: Redrock Pass, Climber’s Bivouac and June Lake. The former starts from Road 8100 and climbs a healthy 1,700 feet over 3.6 miles, passing Butte Camp Dome; the latter two are the shortest, perhaps easiest, connectors from large trailhead areas on Roads 830 and 83, respectively. These 2.1- and 1.7-mile connectors climb gently through forest to connect to the Loowit Trail. From the trailhead at Blue Lake on the west side, a 4-mile connector climbs along Sheep Canyon.

The Trail: The Loowit Trail is not your typical jaunt through a Cascades forest. You will be circumnavigating a harsh landscape recently pummelled by one of nature's most powerful forces. And what the trail lacks in distance (in comparison to the longer Wonderland loop), it more than makes up for in challenges and in-your-face mountain views. You'll traverse wide plains of volcanic cinders dotted with lava bombs, scramble over rough and rocky lava flows and ford swollen streams and rivers cascading down from high snowfields and young glaciers.

Logistics: In addition to the exposure and challenging terrain around the flanks of Mount St. Helens, there are also a few restrictions to hikers. The 11-mile stretch traversing the Blast Zone, between Windy Pass and the South Fork Toutle River, is off-limits for camping. This makes starting at Windy Ridge on a counter-clockwise route one of the best options. Hikers must also stick to the trail. No off-trail travel is permitted. Suggested camping areas near reliable water can be found on the west side near Sheep Canyon, the south side near June Lake and the east side near Ape Canyon.

WATER TIP: Access to water on the Loowit Trail is extremely limited. There are numerous streams flowing off the mountain, but many of them can dry up by mid-summer. Those that do keep running may not be safe to drink. If the water is milky-white, it means there is a high ash content (silica and other minerals), which can be harmful if ingested. Look for water that is running clear to top off your bottles for drinking. If you're pressed to use an unfavorable water source, filter it several times, including once through a folded bandana or shirt to remove as much of the suspended mineral content as possible. And carry lots of water, as there may be long stretches between sources.

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toCLIMATE: With most of the trail fully exposed and dry, summer days can be quite warm and often windy, while nights can get cold. Pack layers, wear a hat and sunscreen, and stay hydrated.

WILDLIFE: Watch for snakes, lizards and small mammals scurrying about and sunning themselves on the rocks. Elk herds often roam the plateaus on the north side.

GUIDEBOOK: Backpacking Washington by Douglas Lorain provides a detailed description of the Loowit and adjoining Mount Margaret loop trails.

Windy Ridge Trail

Loowit Falls

South Fork Toutle River

Sheep Canyon

Blue Lake Trail

Butte Camp Trail

Climber's Bivouac Trail

June Lake Trail

Ape Canyon Trail

Pumice Butte

Plains of Abraham

Windy Pass

BLAST ZONE • No Camping •

0 mi. 5 mi. 10 mi. 15 mi. 20 mi. 25 mi. 30 mi.

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HIKE: APE CANYON DISTANCE: 11 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 1,400 ft.

This view-packed day hike begins at the end of Road 83 near Lava Canyon. The trail climbs steadily through one of the remaining stands of old-growth forest on Mount St. Helens. As you gain elevation, wide views taking in Mount Adams and Mount Rainier open up. At the crest of the trail, near the junction with the Loowit Trail, is the narrow slot of Ape Canyon—named so for the mysterious creature once sighted in the area in 1924. Wander north on the Loowit, across plains of light-colored cinders, with huge views of Mount St. Helens eastern flanks, where colorful summer wildflowers dot the barren landscape.

Loowit Trail WASHINGTON TRAILS ASSOCIATIONWORKED hERE

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TREK: Kettle Crest 44 miles; 8,000 feet elevation gain

From the southern trailhead, ascend through profuse wildflowers on White Mountain before beginning a view-packed stretch past Barnaby Buttes and Bald Mountain. The southwest slope of Snow Peak holds great camp spots near the shelter. Skirt Sherman Peak and Columbia Mountain, then traipse along a sagebrush-lined ridge; camp sites are scattered along the way. The high point is 7,140-foot Copper Butte, where fragments of an old lookout remain. Descend through a ghost forest of snags and settle in for open grasslands and lupine-filled fir forest, all the way to the northern trailhead at Boulder Pass.

HIKE: Columbia Mountain 8 miles; 1,300 feet elevation gain

This loop hike takes hikers back in time on the best introduction to the northern portion of the Kettle Crest Trail. Hike north from Sherman Pass across the southwestern flank of 6,780-foot Columbia Mountain, through a unique ecosystem where sagebrush intermingles with subalpine fir. The high point is the broad, open summit, the site of a recently restored lookout cabin—one of the oldest still standing in the state. From this lofty vantage, peer out over the arid Okanogan Highlands to the west. To the east, the great green carpet of the Twin Sisters roadless area unfurls below, with Lake Roosevelt in the distance.

BACKPACK: Jungle Hill Loop 12 miles; 2,400 feet elevation gain

Two of the most popular feeder trails to access the Kettle Crest, Jungle Hill and Wapaloosie traverse a staggering diversity of classic Kettle Range habitats, from interior mixed-conifer forest to aspen groves and sagebrush meadows. From Jungle Hill Campground, just east of Sherman Pass, make a 12-mile loop up Jungle Hill and down Wapaloosie. A well-used outfitters’ camp at the intersection of Jungle Hill and the Kettle Crest Trail provides easy access to water and wide-open vistas. No jungle here, but come July the trail is a tangle of waist-high wildflowers. Complete the loop with a short walk back along forest road.

BITS & PIECES At only 44 miles, the Kettle Crest Trail can be hiked over a week, or a couple of weekends—or for the ridge-runners, in a single day! Want something lighter? Day hike opportunities abound.

DISTANCE: 44 miles

HIGHEST POINT: Copper Butte: 7,140 ft.

LOWEST POINT: Boulder Pass TH: 4,600 ft.

TRIP TIME: 3 to 4 days

BEST SEASON: July through October

MAPS: USGS Quads: Sherman Peak, Copper Butte, Mount Leona

PERMITS: None

INFORMATION: fs.usda.gov/colville

Kettle Crest Trail Stats

CLIMATE: In the summer, plan for warm, dry days in the 70s, with mild evenings. Evening thunderstorms frequently descend upon the range in midsummer. The first snowfall usually dusts the Kettle Crest by mid-October.

WILDLIFE: Watch for mule deer, moose, black bear, cougar, blue grouse, pine marten, coyote, snowshoe hare, Canada lynx.

GUIDEBOOK: Backpacking Washington provides detailed descriptions of the north and south sections of the Kettle Crest Trail; Columbia Highlands: Exploring Washington's Last Frontier highlights the natural and cultural forces that shaped northeast Washington. Both books by Craig Romano.

The Kettle Crest National Scenic Trail is the granddaddy of long-distance, high-country routes in Eastern Washington. Over the course of its 44 miles, it presents a virtual highlight reel of dry-side beauty, from sage-scented meadows to subalpine parkland.

Located in the far northeast corner of the state, the Kettle Crest features a half-dozen of Eastern Washington’s highest peaks, some topping out at more than 7,000 feet. Nominally a ridge-running route, the Kettle Crest tallies up nearly 8,000 feet of cumulative elevation gain over its length. Yet there are no cloud-piercing spires here, just a mosaic of old-growth forests and open sagebrush meadows, from which shimmer distant vistas of the Cascade and Rocky Mountains.

Hiking the Kettle Crest also offers an object lesson in one of the key forces shaping Eastern Washington: fire. Several sections of the trail creep under ghostly silver snags left standing from past wildfires, most notably the 1988 White Mountain Fire, which scorched more than 20,000 acres of the southern Kettles. In these sections, wildlife, wildflowers and wide-open views have taken the place of the trees, making this one of the scenic highlights of the region.

Owing to its diversity of habitats and lack of human development, the Kettle Range boasts some of the best remaining wildlife habitat in Eastern Washington. Hikers should keep their eyes peeled for cougar, moose, mule deer and black bear, all cruising the high country. But in summer, the dazzling array of wildflowers—buckwheat, lupine, aster, yarrow, paintbrush, hawkweed and others—will likely keep your attention focused on the foreground.

Aside from a few wooded saddles, virtually the entire route offers up big views: to the south, the Colville Indian Reservation and northernmost reaches of the Columbia Plateau; to the west, the Okanogan Highlands and, beyond, the Cascades; to the north, the peaks of British Columbia; and to the east, Idaho’s Selkirks.

To the Colville tribe, whose ancestral lands encompassed the Kettle Range, the mountains bore sacred significance. On White Mountain, near the southern terminus of the trail, hikers can inspect cairns built by young members of the tribe during vision quests. Subsequent generations of visitors have also fallen under the spell of the Kettles, and a dedicated group of local conservationists has spent the last 40 years pressing for a congressional designation of wilderness for the Kettle Crest.

WATER TIP: Tapped springs, never more than a half-dozen miles apart, can hydrate hikers who plan refills carefully. Keep in mind this is open rangeland, and cattle congregate around the springs, some of which have been maintained in less-than-stellar fashion by grazing leaseholders. Filter all your water.

SENTINELBUTTE

TENASKETMOUNTAIN

PROFANITYPEAKMOUNT

LEONA RYANHILL

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SCARMOUNTAIN

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BoulderCreek TH

Washington's Other Crest Trail

The Kettle

Hike and photos by Aaron Theisen

Kim Brown

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TREK: OLYMPIC COAST DISTANCE: 49 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 2,300 ft.

Start at the Hoh River Trailhead and stroll north on rocky beach to Jefferson Cove. Traverse Hoh Head, then alternate between idyllic stretches of sandy beach and forested headlands. Ford Mosquito and Falls Creeks to Toleak, Strawberry and Taylor Points. Exit to La Push Road at Third Beach to cross the Quillayute River. (Arrange transport, or walk 9 miles.) Rejoin the trail at Rialto Beach, pass Hole-in-the-Wall and round Cape Johnson. View Jagged Island offshore before crossing Cedar Creek and continuing to Kayostla Beach. Proceed north to Yellow Banks, then on to Sand Point and Cape Alava. Savor Point of Arches and finish at Shi Shi Beach.

HIKE: OZETTE TRIANGLE DISTANCE: 9.4 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 300 ft.

Justifiably one of the most popular—and accessible—day hikes on the Olympic Coast, the Ozette Triangle starts and finishes with strolls through lush coastal rainforest of fern, cedar and spruce, mostly on boardwalk paths. In between, a 3-mile stretch of coast between Cape Alava and Sand Point showcases sea stacks and offshore islands, tidepools and ancient petroglyphs. Kick back on the wide beach at Sand Point and look to the sea for seals, otters and whales, and overhead for an array of seabirds. Start from Lake Ozette and stroll 3.4 miles west to Cape Alava; turn south and follow the coast to Sand Point; return 3 miles northeast.

BACKPACK: TOLEAK POINT DISTANCE: 13.6 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 250 ft.

Descend 1.3 miles through Sitka-spruce and hemlock forest to sandy Third Beach, just south of Teahwhit Head. Stroll southward along the beach for 0.5 mile, then traverse inland through dense forest around Taylor Point. Enjoy another short stretch of beach with a parade of pointed sea stacks just offshore. Traverse Scotts Bluff inland during higher tides, then ford Scotts Creek to another stretch of beach, continuing south 2.7 miles past Strawberry Point to Toleak Point. Just past the point, find camps, toilet and a shelter near Jackson Creek. Return via the same route. Use your tide table to time your passage near Scotts Creek.

BITS & PIECES Whether exploring the Olympic Coast for a day, a weekend or longer, there is adventure and discovery to be had along every rugged mile of this striking wilderness at the edge of the Pacific.

DISTANCE: 49 miles

HIGHEST POINT: Hoh Head: 400 ft.

LOWEST POINT: Sea level: 0 ft.

TRIP TIME: 6 to 8 days

BEST SEASON: April through November

MAPS: Green Trails 98S, 130S, 163S

PERMITS: Olympic Wilderness Permit

INFORMATION: nps.gov/olym/planyourvisit/wilderness-trip planner.htm

Olympic Coast Trail Stats

CLIMATE: The weather on the Olympic Coast can be just as fickle as the weather in the mountains. Temperatures are usually mild, reaching the mid-70s in summer. Expect rain, wind, fog and high surf.

WILDLIFE: Inland, watch for deer, elk, beavers, black bears and raccoons. Offshore are seals, sea lions, otters dolphins and whales. In the trees and skies are nearly 100 types of seabirds and raptors.

GUIDEBOOK: Backpacking Washington provides detailed descriptions of both the north and south sections of the Olympic Coast Trail.

The wild Olympic Coast—part of both the Olympic Wilderness and National Park—is 49 miles of driftwood-laden beaches, rocky tidepools, imposing headlands and coastal rainforest. In addition to the scenery, a showcase of seabirds and marine life make any venture along this rugged shoreline—long or short—an unforgettable experience.

he Olympic Coast Trail is commonly divided into two sections: the southern section and the northern section. The more difficult 18-mile southern portion stretches from the Hoh River to Third Beach, traverses several headlands and takes in the wildly scenic Toleak and Strawberry

Points along the way. The less difficult 31-mile northern portion stretches from Rialto Beach to Shi Shi Beach, visiting Hole in the Wall, the memorial sites of several shipwrecks and the picturesque Point of Arches. Separating the two sections is the Quillayute River, draining from Olympic’s glacier-capped peaks to the east. The Olympic Coast Trail is accessible year-round, but is best traveled between the months of April and November during any stretch of good weather.

Enjoying a multi-day backpack on the rugged Olympic Coast requires a fair deal of logistical planning, more so than your typical backcountry outing.

PERMITS All overnight trips on the Olympic Coast require an Olympic National Park wilderness permit. Permits can be obtained from the Wilderness Information Centers (WIC) in Port Angeles, Forks and Lake Quinault. Camping on the Ozette portion of the coast requires advance reservations.

FOOD STORAGE All overnight backpackers on the Olympic Coast are now required to carry and store their food in hard-sided bear canisters. Canisters can be rented from most WIC locations during the summer season, and from the Port Angeles WIC year-round.

TIDES There are several portions of the Olympic Coast that can only be traversed during low tides. Carry a tide chart for the month you are hiking and a detailed topographic map to safely carry out your hike. If camping on the beach, be aware of the range of high tides.

HEADLANDS and CREEKS Be prepared for strenuous headland crossings involving the use of steep steps, cable ladders and ropes, as well as muddy slogs. Most of the creek crossings require fords. Depending on the season’s runoff, you may need to search for safe places to cross.

The reward for all this effort? Mile after mile of mind-blowing coastal scenery, tidepools teeming with sea creatures, otters playing in the surf, whales spouting offshore and eagles and seabirds gliding overhead. And due to its limited accessibility, you’re not bound to have much company, allowing you to revel in all that the Olympic Coast has to offer as one of the best hikes in Washington.

TIDES TIP: There are numerous headlands and points along the Olympic Coast that are only passable during lower tides. Before attempting a coast backpack, plan your course by estimating your hiking time to the tide table. Missing a low tide can set you back an entire day. Always exercise extreme caution during crossings. For more info, visit nps.gov/olym/planyourvisit/tides-and-your-safety.htm.

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LakeOzette

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For an easier introduction to Pacific Crest Trail hiking that doesn't involve steep mountain passes, high ridge traverses and lots of crowds—and is usually accessible earlier in the season—just head to the Columbia River Gorge, where the PCT enters Washington. For almost 100 miles, the PCT meanders over easy to moderate terrain, through old-growth forest and among a plethora of volcanic features and landmarks. Throw in a good helping of lakes and a bounty of berries and wildflowers and you have the makings for an exciting weekend or section hike—and a great introduction to the Pacific Crest Trail.

THE TRAIL: From its crossing of the Columbia River over the Bridge of the Gods, the PCT begins an easy entry into Washington's Gifford Pinchot National Forest. The route northward showcases a lively woodland of lush ferns and tall trees. After just a few miles, the trail rounds Gillette Lake (see Hike), an ideal short hike for families with kids. The trail continues its course northward, flanking Table Mountain and Three Corner Rock before turning eastward to cross the Yacolt Burn State Forest. Following this, the trail begins gaining elevation as it crosses basins and climbs drainages to reach the Cascade Crest. Shortly after the trail crosses the Wind River, it heads up Warren Gap, where it passes the Panther Creek Campground, a good place for bedding down or starting a short weekend trip (see Backpack). The trail then proceeds up the Panther Creek Divide and over Big Huckleberry Mountain before descending to circuit the western edges of the Big Lava Flow. Continuing northward, the PCT enters the Indian Heaven Wilderness with a climb over Berry Mountain, followed by a joyful stroll through lake country while winding between Gifford Peak, East Crater, Bird Mountain and Sawtooth Mountain. Where the trail crosses FR-24, 67 miles from the Columbia River, is a fine place for ending your PCT journey (see Trek).

LOGISTICS: The PCT is easily accessible from SR-14, just west of the Bridge of the Gods. Look for the large trailhead parking area opposite the Bonneville Dam and hike the short Tamanous Trail to connect. Reach Panther Creek Campground via the Wind River Hwy, north through Carson. Reach the Sawtooth Trailhead on FR-24 via SR-141 west through Trout Lake.

WHEN TO HIKE IT: The relatively lower elevations of the southern portion of Washington’s PCT make it accessible earlier and later in the year than some of the central and northern alpine areas. In low-snow years (like the one we’re currently having), that could mean access as early as May or June. If hiking in early summer, be prepared for mosquitoes—lots of them! If you save this one for later summer expect lots of berries; in early fall, pretty colors. For the latest trail conditions and trip reports on the PCT, visit wta.org.

T he famed Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) stretches 2,650 miles from Mexico to Canada. Here in Washington, the last 500-mile section of the PCT skirts volcanic mountains, crosses glaciated valleys and traverses high alpine passes. Thru-hikers, weekenders and day-

trippers flock to the central sections, guaranteeing a busy trail and crowded campsites. But by heading to the southern part of the state, you're likely to find an uncrowded PCT with plenty of camping in a unique section of Washington's volcanic landscape.

Hike by ELI BOSCHETTO

Photos by TAMI ASARS

Columbia RiveR to indian Heaven

TREK: PACIFIC CREST TRAIL DISTANCE: 67 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 15,120 ft.

This portion of the PCT covers the southern half of what’s commonly known as “Section H,” which stretches from the Columbia River to White Pass. This section receives much less traffic than other sections of the PCT, making it an ideal choice for avoiding crowds and enjoying some peace and quiet. The elevation variance is moderate considering the distance, which lets novice long-distance hikers find their legs on a reasonably challenge-free section. The highlight of the stretch is the lake country in the Indian Heaven Wilderness, which has lots of convenient campsites among a variety of gemlike forested pools.

HIKE: GILLETTE LAKE DISTANCE: 5 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 370 ft.

This short, simple stretch along the PCT winds through dense forest to the shore of a quiet little lake, ideal for a picnic lunch (you just need to ignore the nearby powerlines). Start at the Tamanous Trailhead on SR-14, and take this short spur trail 0.5 mile east to connect to the PCT. Continue north on the PCT through shady forest lined with ferns and Columbia lilies. The trail passes through a saddle between two hills before turning westward to descend into the forested lake basin. A couple of hiker campsites can be found near the lakeshore. Keep your eyes peeled for bald eagles perched in the ridgetop trees or drifting overhead.

BITS & PIECES From close-in dayhikes to remote section hikes, the Pacific Crest Trail offers something for everyone. Try one of these stretches or custom-design a PCT trek of your own.

DISTANCE: 67 miles (to Sawtooth TH) TRIP TIME: 5 to 7 days

HIGHEST POINT: Indian Heaven at 5,140 ft. MAPS: PCT WA Section H

LOWEST POINT: Tamanous TH at 200 ft. PERMITS: NW Forest Pass

BEST SEASON: Late July through October INFORMATION: pcta.org

CLIMATE: Expect typical Northwest weather in this section of southwest Washington: comfortable summer days with cool evenings. Always be prepared for rain and sudden cold snaps.

WILDLIFE: Watch for deer, elk, black bears and a host of small scurrying critters. In the trees and skies above, look for bald eagles, ospreys, red-tailed hawks and hairy woodpeckers.

PCT Section H Stats

BACKPACK: BIG HUCKLEBERRY DISTANCE: 16 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 4,410 ft.

For a weekend sampler of the PCT, start at the Panther Creek Campground, easily accessible off the Wind River Hwy. Begin by climbing eastward under hemlock, red cedar and fir forest to quickly gain the Cascade Crest and continue toward Big Huckleberry Mountain, where a short side trail lets you bag the summit. Once the site of an old fire lookout, the open, grassy peak offers wide views of the South Cascades. Descend to the Big Lava Bed and wind around its western edge among forested cinder cones. Spend the night at the Crest Camp. Have a shuttle car waiting, backtrack or walk FR-65 back to Panther Creek.

Big LavaFlow

BigHuckleberry

Bridge ofthe Gods

PantherCreek

Sawtooth TH

IndianHeaven

Wilderness

GilletteLake

Crest Camp

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In 2009, Congress added the 1,230-mile Pacific Northwest Trail (PNT) to the National Trails System. Unlike its more famous cousins, the Appalachian Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail, the PNT is an east-west route that begins at Chief Mountain in the northeast corner of Glacier National Park and ends at Cape Alava, the westernmost point of the continental U.S. Along its way, the PNT crosses three national parks, seven national forests, four wilderness areas and five national scenic areas, while traversing four major mountain ranges.

Founded in 1970, it began by linking preexisting trail components in national parks and forests and connecting them with Native American travel routes, logging roads, county and state highways, flood-control dikes and even cow paths and a ferry ride. The trail was rerouted in 2003 and 2004 to incorporate more established trails and to eliminate the need for some sections of off-trail travel. Its management is currently shared between the U.S. Forest Service and the nonprofit Pacific Northwest Trail Association.

Like most long-distance trails, the PNT is used primarily by day hikers and weekend backpackers; however, every year it attracts a fair number of end-to-end thru-hikers. They come to see the

amazing Rockies, Purcells, Selkirks, Kettles, Pasayten, North Cascades, Puget Sound islands and the Olympic Peninsula. Depending on the location, hikers must contend with a variety of weather conditions, from snow and rain to arid heat. Just a sampling of the remarkable scenery to be experienced along the PNT includes Glacier’s rocky escarpments to Idaho’s granite wilderness, Washington’s remote Salmo-Priest Wilderness to the snowy heights of the North Cascades and the mossy halls of Olympic’s old growth—and all points in between.

As the PNT is still a work in progress, there are several sections that remain undeveloped, where navigation is more challenging, requiring suitable pre-planning and proficient navigation skills. The PNT’s particular charm, however, is that hikers can choose the level of adventure and difficulty to suit individual interests—from short strolls to more strenuous weekends—or the ultimate challenge of trekking from the Continental Divide to the Pacific Ocean. è

TRAVERSE IT: North Cascades 38 miles; 5,800 feet elevation gain

This hike requires two vehicles or an arranged shuttle, but the scenic payoff makes it worth the extra effort. Climb to 5,066-foot Hannegan Pass and descend into the Chilliwack River Basin and a cable-car crossing over the river. Climb eastward towards 5,206-foot Whatcom Pass. Traverse the Little Beaver Creek drainage, turning south over 3,600-foot Beaver Pass and heading down Big Beaver Creek to Ross Lake. Finish by heading south to Ross Lake Resort, then Ross Dam and SR 20. Numerous campsites can be found along the route from Boundary Camp to Ross Lake. North Cascades wilderness permit required.

HIKE IT: Ozette Triangle 9.4 miles; 300 feet elevation gain

Explore the rugged Olympic Coast, where the PNT meets the Pacific Ocean, on this family-friendly loop trail with plenty of wildlife-spying opportunities. Begin at Ozette Lake and head west on a boardwalk. Cross the Ozette River and veer right at the junction, continuing through fern, cedar and spruce forest. Descend to the beaches at Cape Alava and turn south, following the coastline. Watch for sea life offshore and a variety of seabirds overhead. Tidepools abound. Reach Sand Point and return via another boardwalk to the earlier junction. Carry a tide table on this hike. If tides are high, use the alternate headland trails.

BACKPACK IT: Whistler Canyon 24 miles; 3,100 feet elevation gain

South of Oroville, the Whistler Canyon Trail climbs east into a landscape of sagebrush and granite. The trail traverses the west face of Mount Hull, with its steep, rugged terrain of bluffs, cliffs and canyons. Climbing higher, it provides breathtaking views of the Okanogan Valley and the Pasayten Wilderness. Wildlife abound—mountain sheep, deer, grouse and occasionally cougars—and camping can be found at Blue Diamond Lake. Take a side trip to Summit Lake and up to the lookout on 4,579-foot Mount Hull. Return on the new Wild Horse Springs Trail. Be watchful for rattlesnakes in summer.

BITS & PIECES Don't have four months to knock off the entire 1,230-mile route? Then sample some of the scenic variety the Pacific Northwest Trail has to offer on one of these shorter trips.

TRAIL TIP: Elevation, weather, season, location and trail conditions are key factors to consider when planning a PNT day hike or backpacking trip. The PNT is not like other popular long-distance trails where signs and blazes provide a well-marked and easy-to-follow route. Hiking many sections of the PNT requires detailed maps and good navigation skills.

From the Continental Divide to the Pacific Ocean

GUIDEBOOK: The Pacific Northwest Trail Digest by Tim Youngbluth describes the PNT from start to finish and helps hikers plan their trips, campsites, permits and resupply points.

HISTORY: Pathfinder: Blazing a New Wilderness Trail in Modern America by PNT founder Ronald Strickland is a treasure trove of PNT history, community, facts and flavor.

TRAIL INFO: Get prepared with maps, guides and other resources with “The Ten Essentials for Potential PNT Hikers” at ronstrickland.com/rs/Pacific_Northwest_Trail.html.

MONTANAIDAHO

WASHINGTON

NorthCascadesNat'l Park

GlacierNat'l Park

OlympicNat'l Park

PasaytenWilderness

Mt. BakerWilderness

Salmo-PriestWilderness

Polebridge

Eureka

Yaak

Bonners Ferry

Northport

MetalineFalls

Republic

Oroville

Omak

Concrete

Mt. Vernon

Bellingham

PortTownsend

OakHarbor

PortAngeles

Forks

LaPush

CANADA

DISTANCE: 1,230 miles

HIGHEST POINT: Poorman Mountain, 7,500 ft.

LOWEST POINT: Pacific Ocean, 0 ft.

TRIP TIME: Day hikes to long-distance treks

BEST SEASON: Year-round, depending on section

PERMITS: Varies by area

INFORMATION: pnt.org

Pacific Northwest Trail Stats

CLIMATE: Be prepared for extreme diversity, from snow in the Rockies and Cascades, to desert heat in the Okanogan, to fog and rain in the Olympics.

WILDLIFE: Watch for black and grizzly bears, mountain sheep, coyotes, wolves, elk, deer, moose, golden eagles, kingfishers and cormorants.

MAPS: Visit pnt.org to download trail maps as printable PDFs, or as Google Earth or National Geographic TOPO files.

Hiking the Pacific Northwest National Scenic Trail

By Ronald Strickland, with contributions from Jon Knechtel and Aaron Theisen

OPPOSITE: From the Pacific Northwest Trail at Whatcom Pass, the North Cascades spreads out far and wide; A PNT trail marker. Photos by Buff Black

BELOW: Backpacker on the PNT at Rock Pass in the Pasayten Wilderness. Photo by Andy Porter

Buff Black

Holly WeilerNoah Glaude

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TREK: LOOP w/ IMAGE LAKE DISTANCE: 44 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 8,900 ft.

Plan to spend at least five days tackling this wilderness loop, as there will be lots of elevation gain to stretch your legs on. Spend the first day heading up to Spider Meadow. Camp in the valley or on the ridge above. Cross Spider Gap on day two and find a home near the shore of Lyman Lake or a view spot on Cloudy Pass. On day three, start the big descent to Miner's Creek, but turn west on Miner’s Ridge and camp beside picturesque Image Lake. Return to the PCT junction on day four and complete the descent to Miner’s Creek, then up, then down across Small Creek and back up to camp on Buck Creek Pass. Finish on day five.

HIKE: SPIDER MEADOW DISTANCE: 13 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 1,100 ft.

If you only have a single day and want to sample the splendor of this corner of the Glacier Peak Wilderness, then take a dayhike to Spider Meadow. Start at the Phelp’s Creek Trailhead and head up the old, forested mining road. The ascent is very gradual. Cross Box and Chipmunk creeks at 1.5 and 1.9 miles, respectively. At 3.5 miles, cross Leroy Creek at a junction where a side trail climbs steeply toward Mount Maude and destinations south and east. Continue up the valley, now on true trail. Views start to open of Phelp’s Ridge and Red Mountain. Reach the meadow near 6.5 miles and explore at will. Return by the same route.

BITS & PIECES There are plenty of trail options in this corner of the Glacier Peak Wilderness for short and long adventures. To truly experience the grandeur of the area, plan at least several days.

DISTANCE: 36-mile loop + side-trip options

HIGHEST POINT: Spider Gap at 7,100 ft.

LOWEST POINT: Trinity Trailhead at 2,850 ft.

TRIP TIME: 4 to 6 days

BEST SEASON: August through October

MAPS: Green Trails 112, 113

PERMITS: NW Forest Pass for trailhead parking

INFORMATION: www.fs.usda.gov/activity/okawen/recreation/hiking

Spider Meadow-Buck Creek Loop Stats

ow do you sum up the best of Washington’s wilderness scenery in one hike? According to several “If you can only do just one ... ” lists, you head for the Glacier Peak Wilderness area’s Spider Meadow and Buck Creek loop. This 36-mile circuit on the east side of Glacier Peak visits sprawling wildflower meadows and high-country lakes, crosses three high passes with stellar views of glaciated mountain terrain, and even challenges you with a short, non-technical glacier crossing. Add in an 8-mile side trip and you can visit a historic fire lookout on Miner's Ridge, as well as one of the most picturesque lakes in the state, Image Lake, often perfectly reflecting Glacier Peak.

Start at the Phelp’s Creek Trailhead (the common, counter-clockwise approach to the loop) with a gentle romp up an old, forested mining road. After a few miles the road turns to trail. Around the 6-mile mark you’ll break out into the wide expanse of Spider Meadow, deep-set in the valley below Red Mountain. A popular weekend destination, there are several dispersed campsites to be found around the meadow. Continuing to the head of the valley, begin an earnest climb toward Spider Gap and its resident glacier, which can be traversed with a little determination.

From the Gap, descend cross-country (may be icy) to the shore of milky-blue Upper Lyman Lake, below Lyman Glacier and Chiwawa Mountain. Here, pick up the trail again and descend to pretty Lyman Lake, with several campsites. An optional 2-mile side-trip contours the west side of Lyman Lake to Lyman Falls. From the lake, ascend westward over 6,450-foot Cloudy Pass and 6,000-foot Suiattle Pass. Be prepared for views that will blow your Smartwools off. Below the passes, you have the option to side-trip to Miner’s Ridge and Image Lake. Since you’re here, you should do them; build an extra day into your itinerary.

The back side of the loop takes a short jaunt on the Pacific Crest Trail, then roller-coasters up, down, up through a couple of deep river valleys before the final climb to 5,900-foot Buck Creek Pass, below Flower Dome, Helmet Butte and Liberty Cap. There are campsites near the pass. If you have even more time, there are side trip options to Flower Dome, or to spectacular High Pass.

The final stretch is a winding descent along Buck Creek, in the shadow of Buck Mountain. When you finish at the Trinity Trailhead, you will have a 3-mile road walk back to your car. You can spend those miles comparing every other hike you've done to this one.

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CLIMATE: Summer days are typically mild to warm, cooling as you gain elevation; overnights can be cold to freezing. Pack layers, and be prepared for sun, rain, snow and fog at any time.

WILDLIFE: Watch for the usual mountain-dwellers: deer, mountain goats, marmots, squirrels and pikas. Bears have been known to frequent the Lyman Lake area, so practice proper food storage.

GUIDEBOOK: Backpacking Washington by Douglas Lorain provides a detailed description of the Spider Meadow–Buck Creek loop trail.

BACKPACK: HIGH PASS DISTANCE: 26 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 4,500 ft.

Channel your inner mountain goat on this steep hike to aptly-named High Pass, and bask in glorious views of Glacier Peak and the surrounding mountainscape. Start up the Buck Creek Trail from the Trinity Trailhead. The route steadily climbs 3,100 feet in 9.6 miles to Buck Creek Pass. Find a site to dump your gear, then proceed through the camping area to pick up the High Pass Trail. Continue climbing another 3 miles and 1,400 feet of elevation, first circling around the west side of Liberty Cap, then contouring high above Triad Lake, to end at the low saddle that is High Pass. Pause, view, breathe.

SPIDER GLACIER: Unlike the massive crevasse- riddled glaciers on Mount Rainier, the small glacier approaching Spider Gap more resembles a modest snowfield. In late summer conditions, depending on your comfort level, it is possible to traverse the glacier in hiking boots with a little assistance from trekking poles. In early summer, or during cooler seasons, the glacier—and the descent on the other side of the Gap—may be icy. In this case, crampons and an ice axe (and knowing how to use them) are advised.

Phelp’s Creek TH

Box Creek Spider Glacier

Cloudy Pass

Small Creek

0 mi. 5 mi. 10 mi. 15 mi. 20 mi. 25 mi. 36 mi.

7,500 ft.7,000 ft.6,500 ft.6,000 ft.5,500 ft.5,000 ft.4,500 ft.4,000 ft.3,500 ft.3,000 ft.2,500 ft. 30 mi.

Chipmunk Creek

Leroy Creek Jct

Spider Meadow

Spider Gap

Lyman GlacierLyman Lake

Suiattle Pass

Miner’s Ridge/PCT Jct

Miner’s CreekBuck Creek Pass/

H

igh Pass Jct

Chiwawa River

Trinity

TH

Hiking the Spider Meadow–Buck Creek Loop

High Pass

Image Lake

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SEASON TIP:

Fall is one of the best times to hike the trail, but hikers should be aware that most of the route is open to hunting. Divide Ridge and the Tieton Basin, in particular, are heavily used by elk and deer hunters. Hikers should be aware of the various hunting seasons, wear bright colors and avoid busy hunting weekends.

SECTION HIKE: End to End Mileage and elevation vary

Given the wide climatic range over the route of the trail and the scarcity of campsites with water, all but the wilderness section of the route is probably best done as a series of day hikes. The easterly shrub-steppe section, from Cowiche Canyon to Box Spring Canyon, is best hiked in spring and fall, with winter also a possibility. The central section, Divide Ridge to Tieton Basin, as well as the lower Laughingwater Creek Trail, is best done in late spring (depending on snowpack), summer and fall, with winter skiing or snowshoeing an option. The wilderness section is best in midsummer and fall.

HIKE IT: Box Spring Canyon 9.5 miles; 900 foot elevation gain

From the Snow Mountain Ranch parking lot walk west to Sunset Road, then up Sunset to a gate. Follow an old jeep road west to another fence. Continue uphill to the corner and then north to pick up the jeep road again. As you climb, balsamroot and lupine become profuse and the views become more expansive: Mount Cleman, Cowiche Mountain, the agricultural lands around Cowiche and Tieton and Yakima Valley in the distance. When the road levels, watch for another jeep road heading southeast (sharply left). Follow this road to Box Spring, situated in a grove of Garry oaks, and the cliffs at the head of Box Spring Canyon.

BACKPACK IT: WOD Wilderness 26 miles (one-way); 3,600 foot elevation gain

This 2- to 3-day backpack traverses the entire William O. Douglas Wilderness section of the trail. From the Sand Ridge trailhead on US 12, follow the Sand Ridge and Shellrock Lake Trails 6 miles to a junction with the Pacific Crest Trail, then follow the PCT northwest past Snow Lake, descending gently to the headwaters of the Bumping River at Fish Lake. From here, climb 1,500 feet past Crag Lake to the junction with the Laughingwater Creek Trail and the national park boundary. Descend the Laughingwater Creek Trail 8 miles past Three Lakes to the trailhead on SR 123. Possible campsites are plentiful beyond Shellrock Lake.

BITS & PIECES Set your hiking boots to any section of the William O. Douglas Trail and experience your own outdoors legacy, from Yakima's shrub-steppe to Mount Rainier's rainforest.

DISTANCE: Approx. 80 miles

ELEVATION GAIN/LOSS: 9,500 ft.

HIGHEST POINT: Laughingwater Jct, 5,700 ft.

LOWEST POINT: Yakima, 1,100 ft.

TRIP TIME: 4 to 6 days

BEST SEASON: Summer and Fall

PERMITS: Varies by trailhead

INFORMATION: williamodouglastrail.org cowichecanyon.org

William O. Douglas Trail StatsWEATHER: Extremely variable; It can be sunny and warm in Cowiche Canyon, raining in Tieton Basin and snowing at Cowlitz Pass. Be prepared.

TRAILHEADS: Davis High School; Yakima Greenway at 16th Ave. or Myron Lake; Cowiche Canyon, east or west; Rocky Top; Snow Mountain Ranch; FS Road 1302 (Divide Ridge); Sand Ridge; Laughingwater Creek

MAPS: Green Trails: Tieton 305, Rimrock 304, White Pass 303, Bumping Lake 271, Mount Rainier East 270

The ultimate goal for the William O. Douglas Heritage Trail is National Heritage Trail status, but the trail is still a work in progress and there are two significant gaps for would-be thru-hikers. The first is from the end of the Yakima Greenway at 40th Street and Fruitvale Boulevard to the east end of the Cowiche Canyon Trail, requiring a jaunt through the Fred Meyer shopping complex and then a walk along the shoulder of Powerhouse and Cowiche Canyon Roads to the Cowiche Canyon trailhead. The second gap is from Long Lake, below Jump-off Joe Lookout, and through the Tieton Basin to the Sand Ridge trailhead. The route will eventually tie together existing and abandoned U.S. Forest Service roads and trails, but this portion of the route has not yet been established or marked. Currently thru-hikers need to use a map to devise their own route through the basin.

Celebrate the legacy of the longest-serving Supreme Court Justice, an environmental activist and Yakima’s most prominent son on this 80-mile trek from Yakima to Mount Rainier.

Approximately 80 miles long, the William O. Douglas Trail links existing trails and roads from Yakima to Mount Rainier National Park. Traveling westward, it passes through Cowiche Canyon and over Cowiche Mountain to Divide Ridge and Jump-off Joe Lookout, then through the Tieton Basin and into the William O. Douglas Wilderness. Turning northwest, the route climbs the Sand Ridge and Shellrock Lake Trails, then follows the Pacific Crest Trail to Mount Rainier National Park, finishing down Laughingwater Creek to Ohanapecosh.

Along the way the trail passes many sites that appear in Douglas’s writings: the hillside at Selah Gap that he repeatedly climbed to strengthen his legs after being crippled by polio, Kloochman Rock where as a teenager he made the harrowing climb described in the final chapter of Of Men and Mountains, Cowlitz Pass where he camped with a sheepherder during the outbreak of World War I, and Fish Lake at the headwaters of the Bumping River, among others.

The trail celebrates not only the legacy of Douglas, but also that of the rich human heritage along the

route. Hikers will walk past orchards and vineyards and along old wagon roads, railroad beds and irrigation ditch banks. They will pass the restored Jump-off Joe Lookout, one of the few lookouts still standing—a reminder of a time when the forests were monitored for fires from mountaintops rather than from airplanes—and walk a portion of the Pacific Crest Trail. And they will travel for several miles on the ancient Cowlitz Trail, used for generations as the primary trade route across the Cascades for the Yakama and Upper Cowlitz peoples.

The natural settings along the route of the trail are rich as well. Due to its location in the rain shadow of the Cascades, and significant changes in elevation, the route showcases environmental and biological diversity as great as any to be found in the country over a comparable distance. From the arid shrub-steppe around Yakima, the route traverses 12 distinct ecosystems as it travels upward through progressively wetter forest and meadow to the alpine zone before descending into the lush rainforest of Ohanapecosh Valley—all offering hikers a unique experience on Washington’s newest long-distance trail.

William O. Douglas

Hike & photosby David Hagen

OHANAPECOSH

RIMROCK LAKE

YAKIMA

CLEAR LAKE

SPIRALBUTTE

JUMP OFFLOOKOUT

McDANIELCANYON

COWICHECANYON

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DIRECTION: The most popular way is clockwise simply because the uphills are less steep.

TRAINING: Get in Wonderland Trail shape by doing repetitive local hikes. Train with the same clothing, gear and trail foods to gauge what works best for your optimal performance.

PERMITS: Mount Rainier National Park requires overnight hikers to preselect designated back-country destinations. Wilderness camps have 1–12 sites, a rustic privy and a nearby water source.

WEATHER: Mount Rainier is known for making its own weather systems. Be prepared and plan for anything, including the possibility of snow, even in midsummer.

GUIDEBOOK: Pick up Hiking the Wonderland Trail, by Tami Asars (mountaineersbooks.org).

HOT SHOWER & COMFY BED: If you plan to start your trip at a trailhead other than Longmire, you could schedule a night at the National Park Inn halfway through your journey.

SECTION HIKE: The Mountain 34, 22, 35 miles; elevation gain varies

Split the Wonderland into bite-size pieces and tackle it over several seasons. First, do the challenging west side, from Longmire to Mowich Lake (34 miles). You'll visit the wildflower meadows of Indian Henry’s Hunting Grounds and Sunset Park’s Golden Lakes. Next, hike Mowich Lake to the Sunrise Visitor Center (22 miles). Skirt the toe of the Carbon Glacier before traversing the wildlife safari of Berkeley Park. Finish the circuit from Sunrise to Longmire (35 miles). See the spectacular east side, including Summerland, the Panhandle Gap and Indian Bar.

PERMIT TIP: Get your permit reservation requests in between March 15 and April 1 for the best odds of getting your perfect itinerary. For best results, create three different itinerary choices; vary the starting date, or start from different trailheads. When submitting your reservation request, indicate your choices clearly on the form.

DAY HIKE: Summerland 8.6 miles; elevation gain 1,950’

Park at the Fryingpan Creek Trailhead near the White River entrance. The trail gently rolls through old-growth forest below the giant shoulders of Goat Island Mountain. Cross Fryingpan Creek and switchback up to Summerland’s wide meadows. Views of Mount Rainier and Little Tahoma are breathtaking as marmots scurry about underfoot. To adventure even farther, the Wonderland continues climbing to Panhandle Gap, the trail’s highest point (6,800 feet). Here, enter alpine tundra, often snow-covered year round, and watch for mountain goats.

BACKPACK: Klapatche Park 21.4 miles; elevation gain 3,300’

Experience one of the best wilderness camps on the Wonderland by sneaking in the back way! From the end of the Westside Road, walk the road-turned-trail for 8 miles to the St. Andrews Creek Trailhead. From there, it’s a 2.6-mile jaunt to connect to the Wonderland and just a short distance farther to Klapatche Park. While there, get the Wonderland Zen by wandering down the trail towards St. Andrews Park, experience the eye-popping scenery at the base of the Tahoma Glacier or just relax in the sun on the shores of St. Andrews Lake.

BITS & PIECES Try one of these smaller sections as a day hike or weekend backpack to get into some of the best wilderness Mount Rainier has to offer. Or, complete the entire circuit over multiple trips.

YEAR CREATED: 1915

DISTANCE: Approximately 93 miles

ELEVATION GAIN/LOSS: 22,000 feet

AVERAGE TRIP TIME: 9-12 days

HIGHEST POINT: Panhandle Gap–6,800'

LOWEST POINT: Ipsut Creek–2,320 feet

BEST SEASON: Late July to September

PERMIT OPENING: March 15

hrough a wispy-clouded late August sky I set out to tackle the Wonderland—again. Looping the many glaciers, river valleys and high alpine meadows of Rainier’s back- country was no stranger to me. I’d hiked the beckoning beauty so many times, I’d nearly lost count. This time, I’d set out towing camera gear in an effort to capture some photos for my book, Hiking the Wonderland Trail. As I walked, I silently wondered what it was about this place that made it so enchanting for me, and for the thousands that hike it each year.

Perhaps the best way to describe the Wonderland Trail is “magical.” It’s as if a surreal spell has been cast upon the trail’s scenery, immersing hikers in rich and powerful beauty with nearly every step and turn. Fragrant flowered meadows, angry and disturbed river valleys, abundant wildlife, historic backcountry patrol cabins and two Indiana Jones-style suspension bridges—all set to the backdrop of the highest volcano in Washington state and the largest single-peak glacier system in the contiguous U.S. But it’s more than a pretty postcard.

The flip side of the Wonderland’s spell could be the daily challenge of elevation gains and losses, ascending and descending 22,000 feet of rugged country. Fortunately, the eye candy of Mount Rainier’s backcountry soothes the aches and pains and more than makes up for the demanding days with natural artistry and allure.

Those who have hiked it can attest that being nose to nose with such a behemoth mountain for consecutive days leaves you feeling distinctly euphoric. The mountain folds you into its strong trance and enraptures you with unique natural features. How rare to stand at melting toes of giant rivers of ice and feel the blast of cold air and nature’s strength. What wonder to encounter creatures like the hoary marmots near Summerland, the black bears of Mystic Lake, the mountain goats near the Panhandle Gap and the Clark’s nutcrackers and golden-mantled ground squirrels that wink at you when they hear the rustle of a food bag. All of this followed by ghost trees so large that you can stand tall inside their great roots. Magic indeed!

From the “wow, look at that!” moments to the solitude of quiet breaks in colorful meadows, the Wonderland is one of the most beloved and highly recommended trails in the country. Even after hiking it nine times, I am still finding magic and comfort in the large arms of The Mountain.

7,000’6,000’5,000’4,000’3,000’2,000’

0 mi. 10 mi. 20 mi. 30 mi. 40 mi. 50 mi. 60 mi. 70 mi. 80 mi. 90 mi. 93 mi.

Indian Bar

Summerland

Sunrise

Nickel Creek Paradise River

Mystic Lake

Ipsut Creek

Mowich Lake

Golden Lakes

Klapatche ParkDevil's Dream

Longmire

ByTami Asars

Wonderland Trail Stats

TRAILHEADS: Longmire, Sunrise, Mowich Lake, White River Campground, Fryingpan Creek, Box Canyon

CAMPS: 20 (Inc. White River & Mowich)

PATROL CABINS: Indian Henry’s, Golden Lakes, Mowich, Mystic, White River

COMMON WILDLIFE: squirrels, hoary marmots, gray jays, Clark’s nutcrackers, mountain goats, black bears

INFORMATION: nps.gov/mora Gre

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Cowlitz Divide, by Tami Asars

Klapatche Park, by Doug Diekema

Panhandle Gap, by Tami Asars

Janelle Walker Tami Asars Tami Asars

32 Washington Trails | Epic Trails | wta.org

Photo by Paul Bestock

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