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A PILGRIMAGE TO THE HOLY LAND
INTRODUCTION To visit the Holy Land and walk on the Footsteps of Jesus is a blessing given to a microscopic few among
the billions of Christians all over the world. I count myself fortunate and blessed to have been able to do
this at a late stage of my life.
Annually during November/December, Mr. Anton Philip of Toronto organizes and leads a group of
pilgrims to the Holy Land more as a service to the Tamil Catholic Community in Canada than a
commercial venture. In Nov/Dec 2012, there were 36 of us including a Catholic Priest who functioned as
our Chaplain and some elderly ladies whose special needs were fully taken care of. Anton apprised us
well on time the full itinerary and other relevant details as to what we should take along, hotels where
we were to lodge, their telephone contact numbers etc. Further details were given in a package at the
airport before we emplaned. We left on the evening of November 30th and arrived mid‐day on
December 1st at the Tel Aviv Airport, Israel.
We were introduced to our Tour Guide, an Israeli Jew who was amiable and helpful throughout the trip
besides being totally familiar with all the sites and their historical, geographical and religious
background. This proved extremely resourceful to us.
Throughout the Pilgrimage which lasted 7 full days in Israel ( and the area coming under the Palestinian
Authority) and 2 days in Jordan the emphasis was on spirituality with a Holy Mass said daily by the
Chaplain, Bible readings, and morning and evening group prayers, chanting of hymns etc.
I wish to give full account of the Pilgrimage which will start with an introductory account of the Holy
Land and its historical, geographical and religious background.
HOLY LAND What is known as the Holy Land is the present State of Israel ( and the area coming under the
Palestinian Authority conceded in 1973 for self‐rule), a narrow strip of land around 14,000 square miles
in extent, bordering the Asian and African Continents. It is termed Holy as the three monotheistic
religions, Judaism, Christianity, and Mohammedanism revere this land for different reasons. For the
Jews, it is the land coming down from Abraham’s time right through the ages and where they
worshipped their God ‘Ya Hew’ , built their Temple and still worship at the Western Wall ( More about it
later ) . For the Christians, it is the land where Jesus was born, where he preached, healed and was then
crucified. Further this is where the Old Testaments’ Prophets Isaiah, Micah, Jeremiah etc. lived and died.
As for the Mohammedans, this is the land from where Prophet Mohammed is believed to have
ascended to heaven .Al Aqsha Mosque, one of their most sacred places of worship is also in this land.
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This land which was known as Palestine during Jesus’ time had changed hands repeatedly over the
centuries but was called as the ‘Land of Milk and Honey’ because of its natural resources. Records of this
land going back to 5000 years bear witness to the fact that it had never been a quiet and peaceful
region. The land had always been a battleground and waves and waves of conquerors poured into it to
control the strategic trade routes linking the centres of the ancient world with predictable regularity,
control swinging from one victorious power to another. Recorded history shows that the region had
changed hands in the following manner from around 1200 B.C. till 1948 A.D. when the State of Israel
was founded by a U.N. Decree.
1200 B.C: Hebrews (i.e. the Jews) captured the land then known as Palestine from the Philistines.
.1200 B.C. to 922 B.C.: During this period, the 12 tribes of Hebrews were united and ruled by their great kings like Saul, David and Solomon.
922 B.C. to 721 B.C: The Tribes of Hebrews got divided and the land was divided into two Kingdoms, Northern and Southern. Assyrians captured the Southern Kingdom in 721.B.C
.721B.C. to 587 B.C.: The Northern Kingdom was in the hands of Hebrews but Babylonians came over to capture both the Kingdoms and held forth until 587.B.C. During this period, Hebrews were exiled from their own land and their historic temple was destroyed.
587 B.C. to 539 B.C.: Hebrews lived in exile until the Persians conquered the land in 539.B.C. King Cyrus of Persia permitted the Hebrews to return to their land but they had to pay taxes and were subject to foreign rule.
539 B.C. to 334 B.C.: Persians continued to rule until 334 B.C when the Greeks captured the land.
334 B.C. to 198 B.C.: The Greeks ruled the land during this period and their influence was so much their language thrived with that of the Hebrews and held sway a very long period even after the Greek rule ended in 198 B.C. 198 B.C. to 64 B.C.: The Assyrians captured the land and ruled until 64 B.C. when the Romans took over.
64 B.C. to 334 A.D.: Romans ruled the country during this long period and it Is during this era many historic events took place which included the birth, death, resurrection and Ascension to heaven of Jesus Christ.
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334 A.D. to 614 A.D.: Palestine continued to be ruled by the Romans but under the reign of Constantine who ruled from Constantinople (a city in present day Greece). He became a convert to Christianity and set about renovating and reconstructing all the Christian places of worship, monasteries etc. His mother Helen personally visited Palestine and organized the reconstruction. Pilgrims began to flow in from several countries. This is known as the Byzantine period
634 A.D. to 1099 A.D.: The land came under the occupation of Mohammedans following a
whirlwind from Saudi Arabia when Prophet Mohammed who lived during the years 570 to 632 A.D. founded Islam. When Mohammedans invaded Palestine the Romans could not withstand them and fled. Mohammedans destroyed many places of Christian worship,
1099 to 1291 A.D.: Based on reports of pilgrims who returned from Palestine to Europe,
Pope Urban II organized a massive struggle to recapture the Holy Land from the Mohammedans. This long war came to be known as ‘ The Crusades’ resulted in the capture of the Holy Land by the Roman Christians. One unfortunate factor in the period was the massacre of the Mohammedans in large numbers which continued to be a sore point between the Mohammedans and Christians for a very long time. Pope John XXIII accepted the Crusaders’ fault and tendered an official apology during his papacy.
1291 to 1517 A.D.: Mohamedans grouped again under Saladin and ushered in waves and
waves of attacks. They took over the land and proceeded to destroy many places of Christian worship. Many Christians suffered martyrdom under them.
1517 to `1917 A.D.: The Ottomans from Turkey took over the land in 1517 A.D. and ruled
until 1917 A.D. during which the Turkish Sultan Suleiman constructed imposing walls around the country. With the construction of the Suez Canal in 1869 the region grew in importance as a trade centre.
1917 to 1948 A.D.: Following the end of the First World War (1914to 1918 A.D.) , The
League of Nations, (predecessor to the United Nations Organization) decreed in 1922 that Great Britain should assume control of Palestine until its future is decided. The Second World War commenced in 1939 and under Hitler, Jews in Europe were subjected to immense torture, sent to concentration camps and murdered in gas chambers. Many managed to flee to other countries chiefly the United States, South America and Canada, but a few did manage to get to Palestine which was then under British control. They came with the idea of creating a separate State for Jews.
With the defeat of the HItlerite regime in Germany In 1945 and the formation of the United Nations Organization, moves were afoot to
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create a separate State for Jews to live in freely. Thus, the State of Israel was created in 1948 under a U.N. Decree. This led to the forced evacuation of Arab Palestinians. Once evacuated, they were forced to flee to the adjoining Arab States such as Lebanon, Jordan, Syria and Egypt. Palestinians were restive. The Arab‐Israeli conflict then started and there were two major wars in 1967 and 1973 amidst numerous squabbles which continue to date.
1948 to date: Israel captured the West Bank including East Jerusalem from Jordan
and Sinai Peninsula from Egypt during the 1967Arab‐Israelli War. War broke out again in 1973 which lasted 16 days during which Israel captured the Golan Heights from Syria. Under a Peace Treaty signed between Egypt and Israel I in 1973, Mount Sinai was given back to Egypt. Again in 1993, under a peace Treaty signed Between Menachim Begin, Israeli Prime Minister and Yasser Arafat, the Palestinian Leader, the West Bank and the Gaza Strip were conceded to the Palestinians for self rule. Bethlehem falls within this area. In 1994, Israel also signed a Peace Treaty with Jordan. Begin paid the price by being assassinated by an extremist Jew and sometime later, the Egyptian President Anwar Sadat was also assassinated. The conflict between the Jews and Palestinians continues despite efforts made by the International Community, particularly by the United States. Arab States such Egypt and Saudi Arabia too have been involved. The Palestinians themselves are divided, the moderate Fatah Group under Mohammed Abbas controlling the West Bank area and the hardline Hamas who are influenced led by Iran and Syria controlling the Gaza Strip.
It is to be hoped that this conflict will be solved to the satisfaction of both the Jews and the Palestinians. The words of Prophet Isaiah (2:4) seem appropriate; ‘They shall bend their swords into ploughs and their spears in to pruning hooks. Nation shall not lift up their swords against Nation; neither shall they prepare for battle any more’.
Before proceeding to the details of our Pilgrimage, let me add a few words on Jesus’ birth. BIRTH OF JESUS According to Christian traditions, the birth of Jesus was foreseen by Prophets Isaiah (7:4, 11:1) and Micah (5:2)‐“Behold, a virgin shall conceive and bear a son.” In 40 B.C., the Romans who ruled Palestine appointed a puppet king, Herod, nominally a Jew but one who was more absorbed in lust for power. He had an abnormal personality, expressed by extreme cruelty and a mania for constructing buildings. Romans considered him a friend and granted him rule over most of the historic land of Palestine including parts of Jordan. Herod the Great as he called himself was responsible for rebuilding Jerusalem and the giant Temple. He also founded the city of Caesarea and built Samaria, Herodia and the fortress of Masada on the Dead Sea. After Herod’s death in 4.B.C.
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Palestine came under the undisputed Roman rule by a succession of procurators whose seat was in Caesarea. At this time, the Jews were divided into many different groups and sects. There were two main groups, the Pharisees who were mainly concerned with the accurate interpretation of the law and the Sadducees who were party of the wealthy priests and aristocracy and controlled Temple worship. The most well known sects were the Essenes, an ascetic community associated with the Dead Sea Scrolls and the Zealots, extreme revolutionaries who advocated armed struggle against the Romans. The Samaritans were no longer considered Jews although they shared with them many beliefs. Many of the Procurators were corrupt and incompetent and there were frequent disturbances. Although Christians consider that Jesus was born at the commencement of the millennium i.e. 2013 years back according to the Gregorian calendar, it is now believed that Jesus was born around 6.B.C. according to historical records. Strong evidence to this effect is that King Herod who ordered the massacre of all male children on becoming aware of the birth of Jesus died in 4.B.C. and hence Jesus must definitely have been born before his death. Gospels tell us of the life of Jesus and since all the Evangelists wrote them independently, there is no complete chronological biography. It is, however, true that Jesus was born to Virgin Mary in Bethlehem in the Judea District when the family went there from Nazareth which was in the Galilee District where they lived to enroll in a Census under a decree ordered by the Roman Emperor, Augustus Caesar. Joseph Mary’s husband was a descendent of King David who had hailed from Bethlehem and hence he and Mary had to go there to be enrolled. The distance from Nazareth to Bethlehem is around 160 km and their trip would have been quite arduous. At Bethlehem, they could not find a place to lodge and had to find shelter in a stable within a cave. It is here that Mary gave birth to Jesus and laid him on a manger and swaddling clothes. An Angel of the Lord appeared to the shepherds around that ‘a Messiah had been born to them, as prophesized by the Jewish Prophets. At the same time, three Sages from the East followed a star which was moving to the East to come to the stable and worship the new born with gifts. Now let us move to the details of our Pilgrimage, which covered the Galilee and Judea Districts of Israel and Jordan. GALILEE DISTRICT During the next three days we spent in Galilee District, we visited the following places/sites:‐ Old City of Jaffa and Church of St. Peter We moved straight from Tel Aviv Airport to the Port city of Jaffa along the Mediterranean coast. Tel Aviv is the most cosmopolitan Mediterranean city housing the Nation’s Legislature, elegant malls , top rate restaurants, concert halls, Opera House besides the Nation’s only International Airport. It was a beautiful drive along the Mediterranean coasts to the Port city of Jaffa, the centre of ancient trade routes connecting Egypt with Mesopotamia and the North. Legend holds that Jaffa was founded by Japhea, son of Noah. Christians associate Jaffa with Peter the Apostle for the following two events:
(i) A vision he had experienced which led to his propagating the Faith to the Gentiles; and (ii) Miracle of the restoration to life of a woman named Tabitha who was dead.
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There is a large beautiful Church built on a hill to commemorate these two events named after St. Peter and our Chaplain said a Holy mass in Tamil here. After viewing this massive elegantly built Church, we walked back to our bus parked yards away along the resplendent Mediterranean Sea shining in the evening sun. We drove from there to our hotel where we were to lodge in Tiberius, quite a long drive, checked in there after a good dinner and rested for the night.
Church of St. Peter‐ Jaffa Interior of Church of St. Peter‐ Jaffa Cana Cana is famous as the place where Jesus performed his first miracle of converting water into wine at a wedding ceremony. There are two churches here, one owned by the Roman Catholics, built by the Franciscans in 1879 and the other belonging to the Greek Orthodox Church. The Catholic Church named as the’ Church of the Miracle’ is believed to have been built on the site of the village synagogue where Jesus had performed the miracle. In its crypt is an ancient pitcher reputed to be a replica of one of the six original jars. Also there is a beautiful painting showing Jesus at the wedding. Our Chaplain said Holy Mass at this Church and during the Mass, the marriage vows of 8 couples who were in our group were renewed. This was a memorable occasion for them. Rest of us offered special prayers for our families. Outside the Church, bottles of sweet wine labeled ‘Cana Wine’ were sold at affordable prices and all of us bought them to be taken home.
Church of Miracles‐ Cana Churuch of Miracles‐ Another View
Renewal of Marriage Vows‐ Cana Couples Waiting for Renewal of Marriage Vows
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Nazareth Nazareth at 220 meters above sea level overlooking the Jezreel valley is the village where Jesus grew up with his parents. During Jesus’ time, Nazareth was a small village with winding and cobbled lanes while Cana was an important city. Presently it is a sprawling city populated by Christians of several denominations, Jews and Moslems. There are many churches, monasteries, convents and schools. We spent some time viewing the city Church of Annunciation ‘The ‘Church of the Annunciation’ has been built on the very site where Angel Gabriel had announced to Mary that she would conceive and give birth to a son to be named Jesus. This is actually a Basilica completed in 1969 by the Franciscans built over an earlier one. The new structure consists of two superimposed churches, a lower crypt preserving the Holy Grotto and the upper level which serves as the Catholic Parish church. The mosaics in the central hall of the church were donated by Catholic Communities from all over the world. The Grotto where the Holy Family is said to have lived after their return from Egypt was carved out of a white rock in the shape of a small square room.
Church of Annunciation ‐Nazareth Church of Annunciation‐Entrance Church of St. Joseph Opposite the Church of the Annunciation is the Church of St. Joseph built over the cave which served as Joseph’s carpentry workshop. According to tradition, this was the home where the Holy Family had lived.
A View of Church of St. Joseph Site of Mary’s Well Now In Ruins
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Mary’s Well We were also shown ‘Mary’s Well’ from where Mary was believed to have drawn water for her home. Again tradition has it that Angel Gabriel first appeared to Mary while she was drawing water from this well. The Crusaders had put up a church in the 12th century at this site which was demolished later and the Greek Orthodox Church had put up one on the same site in 1781 in the name of St. Gabriel. which is still there. One could see the ornamental fountain just below the church, water for which flows through an aqueduct from Mary’s well. Mount Taber Mount Taber which at 1850 ft. is the highest mountain in the area. As our tour bus could not proceed along the narrow road with several hairpin bends, we had to travel up to this mountain in a jeep. It was at this mountain that Jesus transfigured himself (Mathew 17.2) when he went there with his disciples Peter, John and James.( Mathew 17:19, Mark 9:28, Luke 9:28‐36). There had been churches on this site that were constructed and then destroyed by the invaders from time to time. The Greek Orthodox Church put up a church in 1911 and on its ruins, in 1924, Franciscans put up the present church, a Basilica designed by the famous Italian Architect Antonio Barluzzi, The interior of this Basilica is divided by three pillars into naves, the central one terminating in a semicircular apse. The dome of the apse features a lovely mosaic depicting the Transfiguration. The Church enclosed three chapels which commemorate Peter’s proposal to build three Tabernacles, one each for Jesus, Moses and Elijah. In addition to the Basilica, the Franciscans have built a large monastery and a hospice on this mountain. We had a magnificent view from the top of this mountain ‐ Jezrell plains and Nazareth to the west, Samaria to the South and Galilee to the north.
Church at Mount Taber –Site of Transfiguration View from Mount Taber Site of Transfiguration
Church at Mount Taber‐ The Dome Church at Mount Taber‐ The Alter
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Caesaria Phiillipi Caesarea Philippi, now known as Banias Spring, has a historic relevance. A city known as Paneas was gifted to King Herod by the Roman Emperor Augustus. As a token of gratitude, Herod had built a palace and named it after Caesar. After his death, his son Philip embellished it and made it his capital renaming it as ‘Caesarea Philippi.’ which name however does not exist anymore. For the Christians, its significance is tied to the site where Jesus had asked his disciples as to who the people thought he was. Peter acknowledged Jesus as ‘The Christ, the Son of the Living God’. Jesus responded, ‘Thou art Peter and upon this rock, I will build my church’. Jesus also gave Peter the keys to the kingdom of heaven saying’ whatsoever, thou shalt bind on earth shall be bound in heaven and whatsoever thou shalt loose on earth shall be loosed in heaven’ (Mathew 16:18‐19). Banias later became an important centre of Christianity and had its own Bishop from 4th to 7th centuries. The mighty River Jordan 165 miles long with an average width of 100ft. springs from a rock here and perhaps it is this rock which inspired Jesus’ words to Peter. Capernaum Capernaum is an adjoining village to Nazareth and it is from here that Jesus met his first disciples, Peter, Andrew, James, John, all fishermen who used to fish in the ‘Sea of Galilee. Although Jesus had preached and performed many miracles in Capernaum, including healing Peter’s wife’s mother and the Centurion’s servant, its people did not accept Jesus and finally Jesus had cursed it with some harsh words ( Mathew 11:23) . True to his works, the city was virtually destroyed by the Arab invaders in the 7th century A.D. When the Franciscans acquired the site in 1891, it was nothing more than a wasteland. They later put up a beautiful small chapel on the banks of the Sea of Galilee. We could also see large Greek Orthodox Church nearby with its picturesque red domes crowned with crosses.
Greek Orthodox Church‐ Capernaum Church of Multiplication of Loaves Church of the Multiplication of Loaves The ‘Church of the Multiplication of Loaves‘ is located at Tabgha (Mathew 13, Mark 33 and John 21). At this traditional site where a crowd of over 5,000 was fed with five loaves of bread and two fishes, a modern church h had been built in 1982 by the German Benedictines on the ruins of earlier churches. The table of rock where this miracle had taken place still remains in this modern church and a mosaic in front of the alter symbolizes the loaves and fishes. An impressive Sanctuary can be seen inside this church and also a large courtyard with a panoramic view of the Sea of Galilee from the top of the hill where the Church has been built.
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Sea of Galilee‐Just Across the Church Courtyard‐Church of Multiplication Multiplication of Loaves of Loaves Mount of Beatitudes Mount of Beatitudes sited between Tabgha and Capernaum is where Jesus had preached the Beatitudes‐ ‘The Sermon on the Mount’. (Mark 5‐8). The Franciscans had put up a modern church in 1935 on the ruins of a Byzantine era church. The octagonal church built with white stone bears the eight inscriptions recalling the eight blessings mentioned in the Beatitudes while the ninth is inscribed in the church’s dome. One could have a magnificent view of the placid waters of the Sea of Galilee from here. In open air, our chaplain said Holy Mass and it was a real blessing for all of us to hear Holy Mass and receive Holy Communion on this sacred spot.
Beautifully Laid out Garden of the Holy Mass in the Open Church of Beatitudes Church of Beatitudes
Church of Beatitudes‐ Participating Church of Beatitudes‐ The Alter In Holy Mass
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Church of St. Peter’s Primary ’Church of St. Peter’s Primacy’, a small but beautiful chapel built on the site where Jesus had shown himself at Tiberius and shared the meal of fish served by Peter ( see above). Jesus then appointed Simon Peter to the office of Primacy with the words, ‘Feed my Sheep’. Outside this chapel overlooking the sea is a large statue cast in bronze depicting Jesus after Resurrection with his hands outstretched – a very Inspirational statue.
Statue of Jesus After resurrection Self with The Statue of St. Peter Church of St. Peter’s Primary Church of St. Peter’s Primary Golan Heights Golan Heights rising high above the Sea of Galilee were part of Syria up to 1967 when they were taken over by Israel during the Arab‐Israeli war. In spite of International pressure on Israel to secede this territory to Syria in the interests of peace in the region, Israel is holding it for reasons of security. They look barren on the hills while on the valleys below, one can see olive trees and vineyards in plenty. We gathered later that moderate opinion in Israel is towards seceding the Golan Heights to Syria under an international guarantee that would ensure Israel’s security.
A View of the Golden Heights Golden Heights‐ Another View Baptismal Renewal One of the highlights of our Pilgrimage was the Baptismal Renewal on the banks of the Jordan River. The actual site where Jesus was baptized by John the Baptist is now believed to be in Jordan (near Jericho‐ Mark 1: 9‐11) but by tradition, pilgrims assemble at this particular site at Kibbutts‐Kinneret
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where the Jordan river flows out to the sea of Galilee, to renew their Baptismal vows. Bathing in the cool water, dipping one’s feet are part of the options available. Due to seasonal conditions, the river had shrunk but there was enough clean water for the Chaplain and renew our Baptismal vows. The weather too held good for the Chaplain to say Holy Mass in the open immediately afterwards. This was indeed a blessed experience for all of us.
Renewal of Baptism‐ Jordan River Baptismal Renewal‐ Prayers Qumran It is in this ancient city of Qumran that the Dead Sea Scrolls were accidentally found by two shepherd boys in 1967. First they found seven earthenware jars containing valuable biblical manuscripts. Further research revealed a wealth of parchment fragments and scrolls which had lay hidden for over two thousand years and more. Jewish historian Josephus had investigated the community of Qumran as Essenes, a monastic brotherhood which devoted itself to asceticism. They had lived in caves and were celibate. Some of the scrolls contained the oldest existing ‘Old testament Texts’. We were shown a video of how the Dead Sea Scrolls were found and were also taken around a museum which had replicas of ancient artifacts. An item which coveted our particular attraction was a boat made out of scrap found at the bottom of the Sea of Galilee. Tradition has it that the scrap was of a boat that had been in use during Jesus’ time.
Boat made from Scrap found at the Inside the Quamran Museum Bottom of the Sea of Galilee
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Quamran‐ Site of the Dead Sea Scrolls Quamran Rock‐ Another View Masada Masada was the last stronghold of the Jewish rebels after the destruction of the Jewish Temple in A.D.70 by the Romans as prophesized by Jesus. However a group of Jewish zealots, 960 in number was not prepared to accept defeat and barricaded themselves in a massive fort that had been earlier put by King Herod for his own safety. It was a magnificent palace with hanging gardens, swimming pool, an elaborate bathhouse, synagogue etc. They managed to hold themselves in this fort for 3 years but finally the Roman soldiers reached the palace. The zealots led by their leader Eliazar bin Yair chose to commit suicide rather than submit themselves to surrender. We reached the palace by a cable car although one could walk up to it through a’ snake path ‘as many Jewish people were doing as a measure of sacrifice. There we could view the ruins of this massive structure held in reverence by the Jews. Particular attention was drawn to the vast food store‐room, water irrigation system etc.
A View of the Fort‐ Masada Climbing Fort Masada Dead Sea ‘Dead Sea’ is said to be the lowest place on the earth ‐1290 ft. below sea level. Although known as a sea, it is actually a lake measuring 48 miles in length and 11 miles across. The oily feel of the lake water is due to the high solids contents, in the fusion of salts like magnesium, sodium, calcium, potassium etc. These salts are refined and processed to be utilized for industrial and agricultural purposes. The percentage of salts in the Dead Sea is ten times than that of ocean water. As this lake has no outlet, its water does not rise even during heavy floods due to the heat in the valley in which it is located. It is believed that the Dead Sea remains in the same state as in the time of Abraham. Bathing in this sea is a
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curious experience as everyone floats, even non‐swimmers. We were advised to keep the eyes away from the water and also to remove any items of jewellery from our bodies. In spite of this warning, most of us walked into the water and dipped themselves. Dipping in the waters of the Dead Sea is believed to have a curing element for all ailments. This was a novel experience for all of us.
Dipping in the Dead Sea a View of the Dead Sea With the visit to the Dead Sea, we completed our itenary in Galilee and proceeded to the Judea District. During our stay in Galilee, in between our visits to the sites and churches mentioned above, we had the following interludes all of which we joyously enjoyed.
(i) An evening with ‘Cana Wine and Cheese’ by the courtesy of our Tour Organizer Anton Philip. Over wine and snacks we spent more than an hour getting to know each other better.
(ii) A Boat Ride on the ‘Sea of Galilee. The lake’s waters were placid and calm and while we enjoyed the magnificent scenery, we did not start fishing as Jesus’ disciples did. We had a delicious lunch with Peter’s Fish, a local delicacy at a popular restaurant.
(iii) It is generally believed that it is the same fish that Peter served to Jesus when he appeared before the disciples after his Resurrection.
Sea of Galilee‐ Enjoying The Boat Ride Self On The Boat Ride
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An Ecstatic Boat Ride A View of The Sea Of Galilee
A Relaxing Boat Ride Sea of Galilee‐ Calm and Placid
An Evening with Wine and Cheese Enjoying a Lunch with Peter’s Fish After this novel experience, we drove through the long road to Judea bidding good‐bye to Galilee. We were able to view the fertile fields and greenery amidst Jewish Settlements on the left and sandy desert bordering Jordan on the right. We reached our destination Jerusalem in the night and lodged at a hotel. Next morning we were up early to commence our next stage of our itinerary. JUDEA DISTRICT In the Judea District, our visits centered around Jerusalem, Bethlehem and Ein Kareem. Ein Karem Our first place of visit on this 6th day of our Pilgrimage was Ein Karem. the birth place of John the Baptist and also where Mary visited her cousin Elizabeth after the Annunciation. This is a village in the hill country of Judea (Luke 1:65) with a picturesque valley around abounding with churches, convents and monasteries.
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The oldest churches are that of ‘St. John the Baptist’ and ‘Visitation ‘both belonging to the Franciscans. The Church of St. John the Baptist was built on the birthplace of John and has beautiful paintings and decorated ceramic tiles. The present structure had been built as early as 1674 on the site of earlier ones erected during the Byzantine times and later destroyed. Steps lead down to a natural cave housing a Grotto of the Birth of St. John. The two‐storied Church of the Visitation designed by the Italian Architect Barluzzi was completed in 1955. There is also a chapel built on what is believed to have been the site of the house of Elizabeth and Zacharias which shows paintings describing events in their lives. The courtyard is decorated with ceramic tiles bearing the Chant’ Magnificat’ in 42 languages. Adjoining this church can be found a dried spring believed to be the one from which Mary had drawn water. Hence this was known as’ Mary’s Spring’.
Church of Visitation‐ Ein Karim Church of Visitation‐ Entrance Bethlehem Bethlehem in the Judean Hills at 775 meters above sea level is the birthplace of Jesus and sacred to the Christians. Now it is within the area conceded to the Palestinians for self‐rule in terms of the agreement reached in 1973 by the then Israel Prime Minister Menechem Begin with the Palestinian Leader, Yasser Arafat. A large number of Palestinians live in this area. Normally tourists entering the town have to obtain visas, but thankfully, the visa requirement was waived for us and we were able to proceed without any difficulty. Bethlehem, which in Hebrew means ‘House of Bread’. Is a little town that had been a fertile land right from the time of the Old Testament. Four thousand years back, Jacob had buried his young wife Rachael and later David was born and Samuel had anointed him in the midst of his brethren (Samuel 18:13) . Today Bethlehem is the home of Muslim and Christian Arabs, many of who are artisans and craftsmen. While in Bethlehem, we visited the following places:‐ Basilica of Nativity The Basilica of Nativity had been built by Emperor Justinian on the spot where Jesus was laid on a manger and on the ruins of an earlier church that had been put up by Emperor Constantine. Emperor Justinian had also put up a massive pediment of the Magi (the Three Sages who came from foreign lands to worship Jesus). During the Persian invasion, the Church of the Nativity was spared because of the
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dresses which the Magi were shown to be wearing. The Persians thought that the Magi must have been Persians and spared the Church and the pediments from destruction. The Basilica is shared by the Armenians, Greek Orthodox Church and the Roman Church. Curved steps descend to a grotto where a silver star oversees the spot of Jesus’ birth. It bears an inscription in Latin ‘Here Jesus Christ was born of the Virgin Mary’. We crouched ourselves one by one to kiss the sacred spot, a memorable event in our lives. Inside the Basilica there are several chapels, including one belonging to the Greek Orthodox Church known as ‘The, Chapel of the Manger’ built on the exact spot where Mary had laid Jesus after his birth, Nearby are two chapels, one dedicated to St. Joseph to commemorate the flight of his family to Egypt and the other dedicated to the innocent children murdered by King Herod. Our Chaplain offered Holy Mass in one of the chapels and we all received Holy Communion. Adjacent to the Church of the Nativity is the Franciscan Chapel of St. Catherine of Alexandria that was restored to its present glory by the Italian Architect Barluzzi in 1933. It is from this chapel that the annual Midnight Mass of Christmas night is broadcast all over the world. There are crypts said to be the burial places of a few saints. There is also a large statue of St. Jerome who had lived in the fifth century and translated the Bible into Latin. We then entered a square known as the ‘Manger Square’ just outside the Basilica. Christmas is observed on different dates by the various Christian denominations – Christians celebrate it on the 24th of December, Greek Orthodox celebrate on January 7th and Armenians on 19th January. Each is celebrated by colourful processions led by the Patriarch of its sect. On 24th December night, choirs from all over the world assemble on this square and chant hymns while those unable to get into the St. Catherine’s Church to hear the Midnight Mass, watch it on a giant screen assembled in the square.
Church Of Nativity‐ A View Self Inside The Church of The Nativity
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Shepherds’ Field The Shepherds’ Fields are 2 miles away from the Church of the Nativity where the shepherds heard the good tidings of Jesus’ birth from an Angel of the Lord. (Luke 2). In this field, there are two churches, a Greek Orthodox one covering a cave which has a fourth century mosaic floor and a larger one built by the Franciscans in 1950, again designed by the Italian architect Barluzzi. The design represents a shepherd’s tent and the light penetrating through the glass openings of the dome recall the light that had shown on the shepherds when the Angel appeared to them. The walls are decorated with frescos depicting the story of the shepherd and in the centre of the church is an alter supported by bronze Statue of shepherds
Shepherds Fields Church‐Bethlehem The Shepherds Field Church‐ The Alter Church of Milk Grotto The Church of Milk Grotto built on the top of a cave is where the Holy Family is said to have taken shelter on their flight to Egypt. There is a spot which has remained milky white right throughout till now and it is believed that on this spot Mary had spilt her milk while feeding Jesus. White powder scraped from the stone has yielded miraculous cures and we all bought the packeted powder from a Franciscan Priest
Church of Milk Grotto‐ Bethlehem In Front of The Church of Visitation
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Jerusalem We returned late in the evening to our hotel in Jerusalem which looked stunningly beautiful with the lights glowing all over, in the hills, valleys, buildings, churches, synagogues, mosques everywhere. It has a history of its own. Proclaimed as Israel’s capital by King David as early as 996 B.C. its first temple was built by Solomon only to be destroyed by King Nebuchadnezzar in 587 B.C. It was rebuilt in 445 B.C. and expanded and beautified by King Herod the Great around 40 years before Jesus’ birth. It was completely destroyed by the Roman in A.D.70. The only remnant of the temple was the Western retaining wall of the temple supporting its platforms. This wall also known as the Wailing Wall is today, Jews’ holiest shrine. After the Roman Empire adopted Christianity in the fourth century, A.D. Constantine in union with his mother Queen Helena reconstructed many churches associated with Jesus’ life including the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.. This church changed hands in 632 A.D. to Moslems who built the Dome of the Rock on the site of the Temple. Crusaders stormed it in A.D.1097 but it was reclaimed by Saladdin in 1197 A.D. It remained in Mohammedans’ hands until the creation of the State of Israel in 1948. A.D. Israel declared Jerusalem as its capital in 1949. However the city was divided between Israel and Jordan the Jews in each country were not able to visit the shrines in the other. In the Arab‐Israeli war of 1967, Israel captured the area that was part of Jordan and Jerusalem was united again. Israel has however guaranteed freedom of worship to all religions and has taken every action possible to safeguard and preserve Christian historical sites and places of worship. In fact it abounds with numerous churches. We rested for the night after another hearty dinner and were up early the next morning for our first day tour of Jerusalem. It began with a panoramic view of the city from the Mount of Olives, overlooking the walls of the old city and the ancient Jewish cemetery. We proceeded to the area known as the ‘Old City’.
View of the Old City of Jerusalem (i) View of the Old City of Jerusalem (ii)
View of the Gethsemane Garden of Olives
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‘Church of All Nations’ Our first place of visit was the ‘Church of All nations’, also known as the Basilica of the Agony built on the very spot where Jesus had prayed in the Garden of Gethsemane, before he was taken captive. This Garden has been well preserved although a church that had been put up there in earlier times had been destroyed. On the slopes of the Garden of Gethsemane, there stands a stately grove of aged olive trees, believed to be coming from Jesus’ time.
Inscriptions from All Nations A Side View of The Church of All nations The present church had been built in 1924 on the aftermath of the First World War from contributions received from several countries who had hoped that another war of such calamity should never take place again. This was constructed over the remains of two earlier churches, one from Byzantine times (313 to 335 A.D.) and Crusaders (1091‐1147 A.D.)This is a gigantic church and the mosaic in its front façade put up by Architect Bangeth depicts Christ’s offering up both his and the world’s sufferings. Beneath the mosaic and standing upon the columns are the statues of four evangelists, Mathew, Mark Luke and John. The rock is surrounded by a crown of thorns made of wrought iron. Above the alter is a painting that depicts an Angel comforting Jesus. Room of the Last Supper The Room of the Last Supper’ is where Jesus’ last Passover Meal was held. This place has a history behind. A church had been put up here as early as the first century and miraculously survived the destruction of the city and the Temple in A.D.70. However, this was destroyed by the Persians in A.D.614. Crusaders rebuilt it in the 12th century only to be destroyed by the Ottomans in the sixteenth century. They put up a mosque over the destroyed church. The site changed hands again 1948 with the founding of the present Jewish State. Failing in their attempt to reclaim it for Christianity, the Franciscans bought an adjoining piece of land and built the present structure housing the ‘Room of the Last Supper’. It is a two storied structure with Gothic windows and Crusader arches. Below the ‘Cenacles’ or The Food Court, is the hall dedicated to Jesus washing the feet of his Disciples (John 13.5). Every year, before Easter, the ceremony of the washing of the feet is enacted by the various Christian Sects and the highest Prelate of each church washes the feet of his clergy as well as that of senior members.
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After we paid our veneration, Holy Mass was said by our Chaplain and we all received Holy Communion. What a privilege it was to receive Holy Communion at the very site where it was instituted. . On the top of this room is another where it is believed Mary and Jesus’ Disciples assembled after the Ascension and prayed. After 40 days of prayer, the Holy Spirit descended on them and the Disciples went on their Mission.
Holy Mass in The Room Of the Last Supper Inside The Room of The Last Supper Church of St.Peter of Gallicantu This Church stands on a site believed to belong to Caiaphas the High Priest where Jesus was questioned by him and the other priests. It is here Peter had denied His Master. Peter remembered Jesus’ words’ ‘Before the cock crowed twice, you will deny me three times’. (Luke 22:6). In front of this church is a giant statue of St. Peter. Inside, one could see a beautiful mosaic. Down the winding steps, we crouched ourselves to view the ruins of the room where Jesus was questioned and probably tortured. From here we then walked down on the path on which Jesus was taken after his trial with the Jewish High Priests to Pontius Pilate.
Church of St. Peter of Gallicantu An Inscription‐Church of Pater Noster Church of Pater Noster ‘The Church of the Pater Noster’ was built to commemorate Jesus teaching the Disciples the ‘Lord’s Prayer’. There is a Carmelite cloister which is lined with glazed tiles bearing the text of the’ Lord’s Prayer’ in sixty languages including Tamil and Braille.
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Church of Paster Noster In Front of the Pater Nosier Tablets Inscription of Paster Noster in Tamil The Wailing Wall The “Western Wall’ also known as the ‘Wailing Wall ‘reference to which had been made earlier is actually a retaining wall built by King Herod in 20 B.C. to safeguard the giant Jewish Second temple. When the Temple was destroyed by the Romans in A.D.70 the Western Wall had stood firm and escaped the destruction. Jews continue to gather in their thousands in pilgrimage and in prayer in front of this wall which they consider sacred. There are crevices in this wall (space between stones) and in these crevices , Jews have the habit of inserting small chits of prayer and incantations which they believe will be answered by their God. We too followed this practice and inserted our own incantations.
Wailing Wall (i) Wailing Wall (ii) Church of Dominus Flevit The ‘Church of Dominus Flevit’ built to commemorate Jesus’ weeping over the fate of Jerusalem, happened to be the last one designed by the Italian Architect Berluzzi before his death in 1956 it had been built on the ruins of a Byzantine church. Here Jesus is said to have wept as he foresaw the doom of Jerusalem. It is in the form of a tent and from here one could have a stunning view of the city of Jerusalem.
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Church of Dominus Flevit‐Entrance Church of Dominus Flevit‐The Dome ‘The Church of Hagias Maria Zion’ This church also known as ‘The Dormiton’ is an octagonal one built on Mount Zion to commemorate a traditionally held belief that Mary fell into eternal sleep here. A beautiful mosaic depicts Holy Trinity and the Apostles. A staircase leads from the upper church to a crypt where a life‐size statue of Mary made of cherry wood and ivory lies. This is an extremely beautiful statue. Above the statue is a mosaic depicting the figure of Jesus welcoming His mother.
Interior of The Church of the Tomb of Statue of Blessed Virgin Mary Blessed Virgin Mary made in Ivory Church of Ascension The ‘Church of Ascension’, is a small octagonal chapel built on the very site believed to be the one from which Jesus ascended into heaven on the top of Mount of Olives. An original shrine that had been built in A.D. 380 was destroyed by the Persians in A.D. 614, but the Crusaders reconstructed only to be converted again into a mosque by Saladin’s conquerors in A.D.1187 and its central chapel covered by a cupola. . Inside is a stone with impression of a footstep said to have been made by Jesus while ascending to heaven. On the feast of the ascension, forty days after Easter Sunday, the different Christian sects hold their ceremonies here.
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Church of Ascension‐ The Alter Front View of the Church of Ascension Pool of Bethsaida This is where Jesus healed a paralytic on a Sabbath day and antagonized the Jewish Religious authorities. There were five pools at different levels, used as a rain catchment pools to augment Jerusalem’s meager water supply. One of these pools had been used to wash sheep and another central one was believed to have theuraputive effects. Every day the first person who jumps into the pool gets cured of the ailment. There was this paralytic who could not get into the pool for 38 long years. Jesus met and asked him to get up and walk which he did. (John 5:1‐13). The pools have long since dried up but the remains could be seen even now.
Pool of Bethsaida ‐ A View Church of St.Anne‐ Bethsaida Church of St. Anne Adjoining these dried pools is the Church of St. Anne built to commemorate the birthplace of Mary at the home of Anne and Joachim. Although Saladin’s conquerors had converted it into an Islamic school, it was later abandoned and today Greek Orthodox Church uses this building as a Seminary. Via Dolorosa Walking d through the ‘The Stations of the Cross’ (Via Dolorosa), Christians’ most sacred route where Jesus trod with a cross on his shoulders from Pontius Pilate’s judgment courtyard to Golgotha hill, the place where he was crucified, was a noble experience . Nine of the Stations depict events reported in
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the Gospels and the balance five traditionally held beliefs. Nine of these stations are along the narrow street sandwiched between small Arab trading shops selling various souvenirs and household items but each of them identified with a small church or a chapel. The balance five are inside the Basilica of the Holy Sepulcher. Due to lack of time we could not visit any of the churches/chapels on the route although we viewed them all and said prayers from outside.
Down Via Dolorosa (i) Down Via Dolorosa (ii) Basilica of the Holy Sepulchre The Basilica lies in the Christian quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem. Within the compound is the Golgotha or Calvary Hill and the Rotunda which contains the Holy Sepulchre, where Jesus was crucified and buried. A unique feature of this Basilica is that it is shared by the Greek, Orthodox, Armenian and the Roman Catholics Churches. The Basilica building itself is owned by a Muslim family who ceremoniously opens it in the mornings and shuts in the evenings. This arrangement proceeds smoothly without disruption. Inside this massive complex there several chapels belonging to the various Christian sects as well as paintings, mosaic tiles depicting Jesus’ crucifixion, death and resurrection. Notable among them are: (I ) Mosaics decorating the spot where Jesus was believed to have been crucified, belonging to the Roman Catholics;
(ii) A chapel belonging to the Greek Orthodox Church marking the site of the death of Jesus. The alter in this chapel is flanked by two supporting pillars and has a silver disc made of mercury showing the exact spot where Jesus’ cross was believed to have been positioned. On each side of this alter are black discs marking the sites of the two crosses of the two thieves. To the right of the alter is a fissure in a rock believed to have been caused by the earthquake that followed Jesus’ death (Mathew 27:51‐54);
(iii) A chapel belonging to the Roman Catholics dedicated to the “Lady of Sorrows’. On the alter of this chapel is a wooded statue of Mater Dolorosa ( Mother of Sorrows) presented by the Queen of Portugal in 1778. (iv) An alter marking the spot where Mary was believed to have received the body of her son
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after it was removed from the cross. Known as the ‘Stone of Anointing’ and jointly shared by Catholics and the other Christian sects, it is a sacrosanct stone and all pilgrims take hours to wait in a queue and worship it. It took more than an hour for us to reach this spot among the pilgrims who had come from all part of the world. Two at a time we were allowed in as there no place for more and one by one we touched this stone and prayed ( It was not permissible to kiss it). This was a very poignant moment for each of us. ( v) Holy Sepulchre which lies in the centre of the Rotunda in a richly decorated edicule,built on a hewn rock. Beside the entrance there are plenty of lights and lit candle stands belonging to the various denominations. There are also inscriptions in the Greek language which are prayers dedicated to the Risen Christ. (vi) ‘Chapel of the Angel ‘built to commemorate the announcement of the news of the Resurrection of Jesus by an Angel to Mary Magdalene. (vii) A plaster in the centre of the room that contains a piece of stone with which the sepulchre was believed to have been closed; (viii) The tomb of Jesus, the holiest place for Christians lies in the centre of the’ Church of Holy Sepulchre’ beneath the main rotundas in a small chapel with beautiful decorations. This sacred rock is covered with marble and above it are paintings depicting the Resurrection.
The Holy Sepulchre itself is covered by a smooth marble slab which had been placed in 1995
over the tomb. There are three reliefs symbolizing the Resurrection, each belonging to the
principal communities, Greek Orthodox, Armenian and Roman Catholics. There are also 42
lamps burning day and night, thirteen each for the three communities and the balance three
for the Co‐op Christians.
Our Chaplain said Holy Mass in one of the chapels belonging to the Catholic Church and we all received
Holy Communion. We left the Basilica with a sense of fulfillment and joy.
Holy Mass in the Basilica of the Sepulchre Basilica of the Holy Sepulchre ‐ A View
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Interior of the Basilica of Holy Sepulchre (i) Interior of the Basilica of Holy Sepulchre (ii)
Shopping In An Old Jerusalem market Shopping for Souvenirs‐ Old Jerusalem Temple Mount The Temple Mount adjoining s the Western (Wailing Wall) has a long history behind. Traditionally, it was
the place where God had formed man out of dust (Genesis 2:7) and where Abraham had bound Isaac
for sacrifice. Solomon had put up a small but lavishly decorated temple and housed the Arc of the
Covenant containing the tablet of stone which Moses had received on Mount Sinai. (Kings 6‐7)
The temple built by Solomon was destroyed by the Babylonians in 580 B.C.but rebuilt 50 years later only
to be destroyed later and remained so until King Herod the Great put up the giant one which took 46
years to build. According to the Jewish Historian Josephus Flavius, it contained whatever that delights a
human being. This was the temple that stood in Jesus’ time and with which he was associated for many
events.. It was here that he was presented as a baby to the Lord, where at the age of 12 he was lost and
found by his parents after three days in discussion with the Temple Priests and where he overturned the
tables of money lenders and chased away the traders who were selling animals and birds inside. When
Jesus died on the cross, the veil of this temple had been torn into two.
As Jesus prophesized, the temple was completely destroyed I and razed to the ground in A.D.70. It has
since been rebuilt several times and now holds various sacred areas approach to which is normally
restricted to the Jews. We however did manage to enter one of the places of worship and found a few
Jews engaged in earnest prayer. The holiest place inside the Temple could be entered into only by the
Holy Priest which he does only once in a year‐ Day of Atonement.
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With this visit, we completed our itinerary in Israel and travelled in the evening of the eighth day to
Jordan by road. Before writing about our visit to Jordan, I must refer to an interlude, when we were
lavishly entertained by the Tour Operators in Israel. It was a delightful get‐together and we thanked
them all, particularly our Tour Guide Mr. Nathan .
It is also appropriate to refer to certain important sites which we have not been able to visit. A visit to
Israel is not complete without reference to these sites, areas and places.
(i) The Armenian Quarter. This is a section of Jerusalem where Armenians, a closely knit
community who had hailed from Armenia had been settled from biblical times. Armenia
had adopted Christianity before the time of Constantine. This quarter has a historic chapel
and monastery of St. James, a Seminary and a Museum. As we have seen, the Armenians
share the churches, chapels and other biblical sites with the other denominations.
(ii) The Moslem Quarter: The Moslem Quarter is the largest of the Old City of Jerusalem
the upper regions of which are densely populated and the lower regions as street level with
its oriental vaulted market displaying a broad range of products from hebron glass, hardware,
embroidered dresses and fruits and vegetables., This quarter has its own pattern of buildings
generally with semi‐domed entrances.
(iii) The Jewish Quarter: This lies along the city wall between the Zion Gate and Dung Gate and had
been inhabited in the time of First Temple. In this quarter are the ruins of several synagogues
large and small which had been demolished or burnt down by invaders. Some have been
beautifully restored while others have been left as such as historical sites.
The Jewish Quarter as it is now has been rebuilt with beautiful homes with courtyards and
parks and is now a real showpiece.
(iv) The Citadel: This is a palace that had been built in 24 B.C. by King Herod and connected to three
large towers. When the Romans demolished the city totally in A.D.70, Emperor Titus was so
impressed by the size of these towers he ordered them to be left standing. Later the Moslems
destroyed them partly. One tower known as David’s tower can be seen from outside the city.
The Citadel today houses the ‘Museum of the History of Jerusalem’ and during the summer
months, Sound and Light performances are held in its courtyard.
(v) The Old City Walls and The Gates: The Old City walls constructed with great blocks of grey
stone by the Turkish Sultan in 1542 A.D. on the foundations of the Roman Crusaders City . The
walls are pierced by seven gates ach one of which is given a separate name. One gate named
the Golden Gate also called the Gate of Mercy has been closed for centuries as the Jews
believe that it is through this gate the Messiah will come.
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(vi) New City of Jerusalem: For thousands of years Jerusalem consisted only the area within the Old
City Walls. However since the mid‐nineteenth century, many neighborhoods have sprung up
making Jerusalem the largest city in Israel today. Beginning from 1860, a New city had been
developed, intended to draw the Jews from the crowded Jewish Quarter to a newer and
healthier environment. Since the foundation of the State of Israel in 1948, the city has grown
rapidly with Government institutions and public buildings including Israel’s Parliament‐
Knesset, sited here. It is one of the world’s largest and developed cities now.
(vii) Bethany: ‐ Bethany was the home of Lazarus and his sisters Martha and Mary. Lazarus was taken
ill and died. After being dead for four days, Jesus came to Bethany on his way to Rome and
restored him to life.
Inside a beautiful Church of St. Lazarus built on the site of this miracle is the masterpiece, a
sanctuary of St. Lazarus designed and built by Architect Berluzzi in 1954 which incorporates
fourth, sixth and twelfth century remains. Inside the church are many mosaics and copies of
frescoes. Above the Church Is a ruined tower said to be site of Simon the Leper’s house
where a woman anointed him with perfumes.
(viii) Bethpage: Bethpage is the Jewish term for “House of Figs’, which is on the Slope of Mount of
Olives. This is closely associated with the last days of Jesus. Here, Jesus got an ass, a male and
rode through on it into Jerusalem with two of his disciples. The crowd welcomed him with
palm leaves. It is from here that the Palm Sunday procession begins, ending at the Church of
St. Anne in the old city. In the Church at Bethpage is a stone said to bear the imprint of
Jesus’ foot as he mounted the ass. A fresco above the main alter shows the entry of jess into
Jerusalem riding on the young ass.
(ix) Emmaus: It was in Emmaus that the risen Christ appeared to two of his followers and dined
In the house of one, believed to Cleopas. Franciscans believing Emmas to be at El‐Qubeibeh
the site of a Fort discovered by the Crusaders in 1099 A.D. around 6.8 miles northwest of
Jerusalem had put up a church on the ruins of earlier church, fortress and monastery. This is
known as ‘The Church of Emmaus’.
There are also two sites belonging to the Moslems, entry to which non Moslems may be denied but as
they have historical significance, let me refer to them here:
(i) The Dome of the Rock: Believed to be built on the site of Prophet Mohammed’s ascent to
heaven. Set on bedrock at the highest point of temple Mount, this superb structure had
been put up by Muslim Calipaha Abd‐El‐Malik in 691 A.D. partly to rival the Church of the
Holy Sepulchre. It has been renovated many times notably in the reign of Suleiman who
replaced the mosaics with tiles. The entire roof is gold‐plated and it windows, stain‐glassed.
(ii) Mosque of Al Ahsa; This is Jerusalem’s main mosque which has a silver dome originally
constructed in early eight century Abu Caliph Abd‐ El‐Malik. Due to successive earthquakes,
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the mosque had been damaged and rebuilt several times. The inside of the mosque is
covered with mosaic and staccato and there are covered stained glass windows. At its
entrance in 1951, the then King of Jordan, grandfather of the present King was assassinated.
Later an arsonist set fire and damaged it partially. Years later, an extremist Jew entered the
Prayer Hall and shot and killed several Muslims who were engaged in prayers. This is their
third holiest mosque after Mecca and Medina .
On completing our journey in Israel, I cannot fail to mention that the Israel although not a Christian
State has preserved and is safeguarding all the Christian sacred sites with adequate care and also
welcomes the thousands of pilgrims who pour in to their country with open arms , hospitality and
warmth. The same applies to the area coming within the Palestinian Authority. Towards these,
Christians have to be appreciative and grateful to them.
VISIT TO JORDAN After completing our journey in Israel we moved to Jordan by road. It was a long drive and at the border
of Israel and Jordan, we had to comply with visa formalities. We had to unload our luggage from the bus,
fetch it across from the Israeli border to the Jordanian one and reload them again. We were completely
exhausted and were finally relieved when we checked into a Jordanian hotel for the night.
Jordan is filled with archaeological sites attesting to ancient settlements. In biblical times, today’s
Jordan was home to several tribes including Canaanites, Moabites, Ammonites and Edomites, who were
inimical to the Israelites. Moses died in Moab, allowed only to see but not to enter the Promised Land.
Under his successor Joshua, the Israelites had to fight many battles and King David defeated the
Ammonites and killed the entire the population.
For hundreds of years, Jordan was beyond the realm of Western travelers until the nineteenth century
when a few intrepid travelers discovered the fascinating desert land with its castles in Petra,.Jerash and
Medaba . They became popular travel destinations.
Our first place of visit was Mount Nebo where Moses was said to have stood and gazed at the Promised
Land (Deutronomy0 34) after leading his people through the desert for forty years. Located 800 meters
above the sea level, Mt. Nebo commands a breathtaking view of the Judean Hills, the Dead Sea and
Jerusalem on a clear day. The Lord had shown the Promised Land to Moses but specified that he himself
shouldn’t cross it. Moses was believed to have died in Moab and buried there although his tomb has
never been discovered.
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On Our Way to Petra‐ Across the Jordanian Ruined Cities‐ A View Jordanian Desert
Jordanian Guards Marching In the Desert Self In Front Of The Monastery
As it was a long day, we returned to the hotel rather early without visiting any other place and rested
after dinner.
Next morning, we had to pack our luggage and leave it in the hotel luggage room as we were scheduled
to drive straight to Amman that night to catch our return flight to Toronto. After breakfast we left for a
historical site, Petra driving through the Jordanian desert, red sand and large boulders Ancient Petra was
the capital of Edom and it was here that Moses struck the rock and drew water ( (Exodus 17). As our bus
could not drive through the last few miles of the route to Petra, we had to get down and either walk
through the desert sand or ride in a jeepney. I chose the latter one although many preferred to walk
through as the weather was tolerable e. It turned out to be a bad decision as I inhaled plenty of dust
through the open jeepney window and fell sick with a bad infection.
On reaching Petra, we were able to view a magnificent ancient palace, guarded by the Jordanian Police.
Historically Petra had been occupied by Nabatees, a semi‐nomadic people who moved from place to
place. From Petra, they controlled the lucrative trade routes and enjoyed prosperous lives. They co‐
existed with the Roman Emperor but in 106 A.D, the Romans took over the city.
We completed our Pilgrimage strict to schedule on 9th December physically tired and exhausted, but
with our spirits ecstatic, left to Amman Airport from our hotel to catch our return flight to Toronto
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through Frankfort. Unfortunately, due to adverse weather conditions in Frankfort, our flight was
cancelled but Lufthansa whose flight we were to take from Amman arranged an overnight stay at a hotel
nearby. We stayed in that hotel for one whole day but most of us took the opportunity to view Amman
city and spent their time at a sprawling mall. We left that evening and reached Frankfort first and then
Toronto on 12th December, safe and sound with our luggage overloaded with several souvenirs and
bottles of wine and our spirituality tremendously advanced. The group as a whole was always united in
prayer and socially with the young always willing to help the elderly.
Anton took the pain of transferring all the photos and videos he had taken to USB drives and presenting
to each one of us, a very thoughtful deed.
I take this opportunity to thank Anton Philip for arranging this joyous Pilgrimage and Rev. Fr. Jude
Amalathas for his inspired chaplaincy.
Benedict Thomas (Benny)
Acknowledgements: The Holy Land; Land of Jesus by Phalpot Journey to the Holy Land by Rt. Rev. Ponniah Joseph, Bishop of Batticaloa Diocese ATTACHMENTS I have classified the Attachments into three groups: (i) Notable Mosaics and Paintings from Churches and Chapels visited, (ii) Group Photographs and (iii) Maps of the Holy Land.
Mosaics and Paintings
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A Painting of The Blessed Virgin Mary A Mosaic of Jesus’ Baptism Church of Visitation
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Mosaics From The Church of All Nations (i) Mosaics From The Church of All nations (ii)
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A Painting of the Miracle at Cana A Painting of The Last Supper
(i) Group Photographs
Our Group In Front of the Wailing Wall
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A Photo of Our Group
Overlooking the Mediterranean Sea
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d
Inside The Church of The Multiplication of Loaves
Our Group Amidst The Jordanian Ruins
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Maps of Holy Land
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Map of the Holy Land‐ Enlarged
