A. Physical oceanography

Oceanographic Literature Review

(1982) 29 (11)

The citations are those received in the editorial office during the period i-31 August, 1982. Most are accompanied by a short annotation or abstract and, when obtainable, by the first author's address. The citations are classified under six main headings and about 130 sub-headings (see the table of contents). Subject and author indexes are published for the first three quarters of the year with an annual cumulation. See the preface for additional explanatory material.

A. PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY

AI0. Apparatus and methods

82:5195 Armi, L. and N.A. Bray, 1982. A standard analytic

curve of potential temperature versus salinity for the western North Atlantic. J. phys. Oceanogr., 12(4):384-387.

An algorithm for computing salinity as a continuous function of potential temperature uses historical data compiled by Worthington and Metcalf (1961) for the deep western North Atlantic, and by Iselin (1936) for shallow and intermediate waters of the same region. Scripps Inst. of Oceanogr., La Jolla, Calif. 92093, USA.

82:5196 Luyten, J.R., Gerald Needell and John Thomson,

1982. An acoustic dropsonde: design, performance and evaluation. Deep-Sea Res., 29(4A):499-524.

A freely-falling, acoustically self-positioning dropsonde is used to determine vertical profiles of horizontal ocean currents. Instrument design and techniques for acoustic navigation based on bottom-moored transponders are discussed. Velocity estimates show that averages over 25-m depth intervals are consistent to within 4 cm/s. Uncer- tainty in the vertically averaged velocity from top to bottom is +_ 0.25 cm/s. WHOI, Woods Hole, Mass. 02543, USA.

82:5197 McDaniel, S.T. and A.D. Gorman, 1982. Acoustic

and radar sea surface backscatter. J. geophys. Res., 87(C6):4127-4136.

Theoretical predictions of sea surface reverberation are compared with representative acoustic and radar data in three frequency ranges: 2-5 kHz acoustic (428- and 1228-MHz radar), 20-25 kHz acoustic

660 A. Physical Oceanography OLR (1982)29(11)

(4455-MHz radar), and 58-60 kHz acoustic (8910- MHz radar). Predicted backscattering strength is in relatively good agreement with the radar data at all frequencies; predictions match acoustic data only at the lowest frequency (at the others, measured acoustic backscatter greatly exceeds the composite roughness predictions at low grazing angles). A simple model to compute reverberation due to a near-surface bubble layer provides good agreement with the acoustic data and also predicts the satu- ration that occurs with increasing wind speed. Appl. Res. Lab., Pennsylvania State Univ., University Park, Penn. 16802, USA.

82:5198 Washburn, Libe and C.H. Gibson, 1982. Meas-

urements of oceanic temperature microstructure using a small conductivity sensor. J. geophys. Res., 87(C6):4230-4240.

The signal of a small, high frequency response conductivity probe towed at 35 m depth in the seasonal thermocline was dominated by temperature up to the maximum frequency response of the thermistor, ~25 Hz. Under the conditions of the experiment, the probe measured temperature to smaller scales and higher frequencies than did the compared microbead thermistor. Estimated frequency response is 700 Hz at towing speed 1.78 m/s; spatial resolution appears adequate to resolve the smallest scale temperature gradients encountered during MILE. Conductivity gradient spectral levels in some regions of microstructure activity were 10-1000 times larger than spectral levels of the noise. Dept. of Appl. Mech. and Engrg. Sci., Univ. of California, La Jolla, Calif. 92093, USA.

A40. Area studies, surveys

82:5199 Brooks, D.A. and R.V. Legeckis, 1982. A ship and

satellite view of hydrographic features in the western Gulf of Mexico. J. geophys. Res., 87(C6):4195-4206.

A meandering surface thermal front separated a southern anticyclone and a northern cyclone (both with horizontal scales of several hundred km and prominent in subsurface hydrographic observations). The eastward geostrophic volume transport in the confluent leg of the two features approximated that of the Florida Current. A shallow layer of fresh, cool water from the Texas shelf region extended ~300 km seaward into the cyclone along the northern side of the front. Remnant Subtropical Underwater in the core of the anticyclone indicates its origin in the

eastern Gulf Loop Current. Texas A&M Univ., College Station, Tex. 77843, USA.

82:5200 Bulgakov, N.P. and A.B. Polonsky, 1982. Influence

of synoptic eddies on the heat content distribution in the Sargasso Sea [POLYMODE]. Okeano- logiia, 22(2):170-173. (In Russian, English abstract.)

82:5201 De Maio, A., M. Moretti, E. Sansone, G. Spezie and

M. Vultaggio, 1980/81. Oceanographic data of the Gulf of Naples, 1977-1980. (Temperature, salinity, currents and meteorology.) Data report. Annali Ist. nay. Napoli, 49/50(App. 2):305pp. (In Italian, English abstract.) Charts, graphs and tables comprise 294 pages of the report. Inst. Meteor. Oceanogr., IUN, Naples, Italy.

82:5202 Saunders, R.W., N.R. Ward, C.F. England and G.E.

Hunt, 1982. Satellite observations of sea surface temperature around the British Isles. Bull. Am. met. Soc., 63(3):267-272.

Combining TIROS-N AVHRR and METEOSAT imagery with conventional synoptic data (to obtain a calibration for both 11 ttm infrared channels) gave SST's accurate to + 1 K. Changes in SST around the British Isles for 12 July 1979 are shown well by the satellite data. Dept. of Phys. and Astron., University Coll., London WCIE 6BT, UK.

82:5203 Zheng, Quanan, 1981. Winter surface temperature

pattern of the Hnanghai Sea and the East China Sea derived from GMS-I and NOAA-5 satellite IR images. Acta oceanol, sin., 3(4):523-534. (In Chinese, English summary.)

Winter SST's are described from color enhanced images augmented by in-situ observations. The Chinese coastal region is divided into 2 zones at the Chang~iang River. At the confluence there is a complicated SST pattern caused by the Taiwan Warm Current and the Huanghai Sea Warm Cur- rent. A cyclonic eddy is found at the mouth of the Changiiang. First Inst. of Oceanogr., Natl. Bureau of Oceanography, Qingdao, People's Republic of Chi- na. (rjs)

O LR (1982) 29 ( I I ) A. Physical O c e a n o g r a p h y 661

A50. General hydrography (distribution of c o m m o n oceanic proper t ies)

82:5204 Gibson, C.H., 1982. Alternative interpretations for

microstructure patches in the thermocline. J. phys. Oceanogr., 12(4):374-383.

Gregg (1980), in studying microstructure patches in the North Pacific, concluded that the observed microstructure demonstrated active rather than fossil turbulence, and that vertical diffusivities by turbulent mixing are two orders of magnitude smaller than canonical values. These interpretations are questioned; both depend on the 'unnecessary as- sumption that in order to be fossil the microstructure must not be moving; actually fossil-turbulence microstructure must always have [motion].' A re- interpretation of the data with a fossil-turbulence model (Gibson, 1980) is consistent with a canonical range of values, even though the data are apparently too sparse to have included active turbulent regions. Scripps Inst. of Oceanogr., La Jolla, Calif. 92093, USA. (fcs)

82:5205 Ryabchenko, V.A., 1982. Numerical experiments

with an active oceanic layer model. Meteorologiya Gidrol., 1982(2):63-68. (In Russian, English abstract.)

Relationships between SST and heat flux at the air-sea interface are included in an integral model (1979). Effects of varying model parameters are discussed. Observations at Ocean Station N agree well with calculations. (isz)

A80. Circulation

82:5206 Ali, Anwar, 1982. A comparison between vertically

integrated and multilevel models of tidal dynamics in channels. Estuar. coast. Shelf Sci., 14(4): 405-419.

A numerical comparison indicates the extent to which vertically integrated models are a reasonable substitute for multilevel models. Effects of fresh- water on tidal elevation and current in a river are considered. Space Res. and Remote Sensing Organ., G.P.O. Box 529, Dacca, Bangladesh.

82:5207 Danilov, A.I., V.O. Ivchenko and V.N. Nikolaevskii,

1982. Large-scale barotropic ocean circulation with parameterization of synoptic eddies. Dokl. Akad. Nauk SSSR, 262(6):1485-1490. (In Rus- sian.)

82:5208 Takano, Kenzo, 1981. A note on the haline, thermo-

haline and thermohaline-wind-driven ocean circulation. Mer, Tokyo, 19(4): 185-203.

Effects on general circulation of fluxes of salinity, heat and momentum at the ocean surface were examined via a 'better [than the oversimplified version often used] approximate equation of state.' Among the results: (1) surface salinity flux works in opposition to heat and momentum forcing, weaken- ing the greater circulation; (2) wind stress increases current velocities, intensifies total zonal and meridional circulation, and increases total meridional heat (but not salinity) transport. In addition, wind stress decreases the total ocean basin averaged temperature although it increases surface temperatures. Inst. of Biol. Sci., Univ. of Tsukuba, Sakuramura, Ibara- kiken, 305 Japan. (slr)

82:5209 Talbot, J.W., 1981. Investigations of dispersal in an

area of complex circulation: the outer Thames Estuary. Ocean Sci. Engng, 6(3):301-333.

Dispersion is investigated using a mathematical model in conjunction with current measurements. Results are applied to the problem of sewage dispersal in the Thames Estuary where examination of bottom fauna and sediments shows little impact although 5 million tons of sludge are dumped annually. MAFF, Fish. Radiobiol. Lab., Lowestoft, Suffolk, NR32 1DA, UK. (rjs)

A90. Currents

82:5210 Bolshakov, V.N., S.K. Gulev and A.S. Matygin,

1982. Vertical coherence of tidal semidiurnal currents at hydrophysical Polygon-70 in the Atlantic. Meteorologiya Gidrol., 1982(1):78-81. (In Russian.)

82:5211 Bubnov, V.A., V.D. Egorikhin and A.S. Osadchy,

1982. Structure of the equatorial currents in the central and west Pacific. South Equatorial, Cromwell, Westward Intermediate Equatorial currents, Equatorial Countercurrent. Okeano- logiia, 22(2):174-178. (In Russian, English abstract.)

82:5212 Bubnov, V.A. and V.D. Yegorikhin, 1982. Meanders

of the Cromwell Current. Meteorologiya Gidrol., 1982(2): 109-1 ! 1. (In Russian.)

662 A. Physical Oceanography OLR (1982) 29 (I 1)

82:5213 de Ruijter, Will, 1982. Asymptotic analysis of the

Agulhas and Brazil current systems. J. phys. Oceanogr., 12(4):361-373.

Whereas a linear Munk-type model of wind-driven ocean circulation did not reproduce retroflection of the Agulhas Current south of Africa, a 'l-layer nonlinear extension of the frictional model' did. More accurate transport results for the Brazil and Agulhas currents demand a 'qualitatively and quan- titatively accurate approximation near the southern coast of South Africa.' Rijkswaterstaat, Data Proc. Div., Nijverheidsstraat 1, 2288 BB Rijswijk, Neth- erlands. (isz)

82:5214 Demyshev, S.G., V.N. Eremeev, L.M. Ivanov and

V.V. Knysh, 1982. Passive scalar admixture and eddy formations in the open ocean. Fiz. A tmosf. Okeana, 18(3):276-285. (In Russian, English abstract.)

82:5215 Griffiths, R.W., P.D. Killworth and M.E. Stern,

1982. Ageostrophic instability of ocean currents. J. Fluid Mech., 117:343-377.

The stability of gravity currents, in a rotating system, that are infinitely long and uniform in the direction of flow and for which the current depth vanishes on both sides of the flow is investigated. Owing to the role of the Earth's rotation in restraining horizontal motions, the currents are bounded on both sides by free streamlines, or sharp density fronts. A model is used in which only one layer of fluid is dynamically important, with a second layer being infinitely deep and passive. Analysis includes the influence of vanishing layer depth and large inertial effects near the edges of the current, and shows that such currents are always unstable to linearized perturbations (except possibly in very special cases), even when there is no extremum (or gradient) in the potential vorticity profile. Dept. of Appl. Math. and Theor. Phys., Silver St., Cambridge CB3 9EW, UK.

82:5216 Guretsky, V.V., 1982. Considering the compressibility

of seawater in calculations of currents. Okeano- logiia, 22(2):179-181. (In Russian, English abstract.)

For the Southern Ocean, diagnostic calculations show 'essential increases' in both current velocities and deep horizontal density gradients due to seawater compressibility. (isz)

82:5217 Koniaev, K.V. and G.I. Merinova, 1982. Spectra of

the current field in the ocean determined from trajectories of freely drifting floats of the system SOFAR. Dokl. Akad. Nauk SSSR, 263(4):993- 996. (In Russian.)

82:5218 Lavelle, J.W. and D.J.P. Swift, 1982. Near-shore

currents measured in ridge-and-swale topography off Long Island, New York. J. geophys. Res., 87(C6):4190-4194.

In the frictionally influenced near-shore water column, currents (39-day records) are generally oriented slightly clockwise of longshore, toward the principal axis of ridge-and-swale topography; angle is largest and closest to the local topographic axis when semidiurnal tidal currents dominate, suggest- ing a possible role in molding the local topography. NOAA, Pacific Mar. Environ. Lab., Seattle, Wash. 98105, USA.

82:5219 Maeland, Einar, 1982. A note about unsteady cur-

rents over a continental shelf. Tellus, 34(2): 199- 202.

Response of a suddenly imposed wind-stress at the ocean surface in a shelf region where the depth vanishes at the coast is considered. When the flow is independent of the co-ordinate along a straight coastline, a closed form solution reveals non- uniform space-time behavior. Comparisons are made with a numerical solution by Johnson and Manja (1980). Norwegian Meteorol. Inst., Allegt, 70, N- 5000 Bergen, Norway.

82:5220 Masuda, Akira, 1982. An interpretation of the

bimodal character of the stable Kuroshio path. Deep-Sea Res., 29(4A):471-484.

The Kuroshio has two stable paths: N-type without meander and A-type with meander. A simple model based on the non-linear path equation explains the bimodal character in terms of bifurcation of the straight path and jumping of the solution from one branch to another. The Izu Ridge limits possible steady paths to those passing an assigned point at the downstream side. Reduction of characteristic Kuroshio velocity leads to disappearance of the N-type solution, followed by catastrophic transition to the A-type meander of large amplitude. Neither small modification of the basic equation nor con- sideration of the real situation alters the bimodality. Res. Inst. for Appl. Mechanics, Kyushu Univ., Hakozaki, Fukuoka 812, Japan.

O L R (1982) 29 ( I 1) A. Physical O c e a n o g r a p h y 663

82:5221 Miranda, L.B. de and B.M. de Castro Filho, 1982.

Geostrophic flow conditions of the Brazil Current at 19°S. Ciencia interamer., 22(1/2):44-48.

A 160 n.mi. hydrographic transect showed a maximum current velocity of 72 cm/s close to the continental slope and a reverse flow (maximum velocity 17 cm/s) on the anticyclonic shear side of the current. Both volume transports were mostly in surface layers. The Gulf Stream and Brazil Current have very different transport-per-unit-depth curves. Inst. Oceanogr. da Univ. de Sao Paulo, Brazil. (mwf)

82:5222 Rachkov, V.I., 1980. Hydrochemical structure of

waters in the region of the Kuroshio. Izv. tikhookean, nauchno-issled. Inst. ryb. Khoz. Okeanogr. (TINRO), 104:23-28. (In Russian, English abstract.)

A l l 0 . Water masses and fronts

82:5223 Bulatov, N.V., 1980. Structure and dynamics of the

bands of warm waters north of the Subarctic Front in the Pacific Ocean. Izv. tikhookean. nauchno-issled. Inst. ryb. Khoz. Okeanogr. (T1NRO), 104:50-57. (In Russian, English abstract.)

82:5224 Edwards, R.J. and W.J. Emery, 1982. Australasian

Southern Ocean frontal structure during summer 1976-77. Aust. J. mar. Freshwat. Res., 33(1):3-22.

The Polar Front is convoluted, leading to wide and narrow sections of the Antarctic Polar Frontal Zone between it and the Subantarctic Front. SW of Australia the Subantarctic Front shifts north along with the Subtropical Convergence, and the Antarctic Polar Frontal Zone is at its widest. East of a southward shift of all 3 fronts south of eastern Australia, they separate to give almost equal sepa- rations of ~700 km between fronts SE of New Zealand. The homogeneous Subantarctic Mode Water between the Subantarctic Front and the Subtropical Convergence is progressively warmer westward. Div. of Oceanogr., CSIRO Mar. Lab., P.O. Box 21, Cronulla NSW 2230, Australia.

82:5225 Morrison, J.M. and W.D. Nowlin Jr., 1982. General

distribution of water masses within the eastern Caribbean Sea during the winter of 1972 and fall of 1973. J. geophys. Res., 87(C6):4207-4229.

Water characteristics (temperature, salinity, dis- solved oxygen, nutrients) from data collected during 3 cruises are used to infer eastern Caribbean flow patterns and water mass distributions. Passages that are the entries for various water masses are iden- tified. Estimates of the geostrophic transport for both seasons, 29 × 106 m3/se%agree well with those of previous investigations. Dept. of Oceanogr., Texas A&M Univ., College Station, Tex. 77843, USA. (rjs)

82:5226 Takano, Isao, Shiro Imawaki and Hideaki Kunishi,

1981. Surface temperature-salinity front in the Kuroshio south of Japan. Mer, Tokyo, 19(4): 171- 178.

Continuous records of temperature and salinity from the complicated surface layers during 19 crossings of the Kuroshio showed a front 3 km wide and 20 m thick. Temperatures changed by 0.7 C ° and salinity by 0.6 ppt across the front, but density differences were small. Meteorological Satellite Center, Kiyose- shi, Tokyo, 180-04 Japan. (mwf)

82:5227 Willenbrink, Eva, 1982. Analysis of watermasses in

the tropical and subtropical northeast Atlantic. Ber. Inst. Meeresk. Christian-Albrechts-Univ., 96:72pp. (In German, English abstract.)

Data from 4000 hydrographic stations in the Atlan- tic Ocean between 8 ° and 41°N and from 35°W to coastal Europe and Africa are analyzed. Data averaged for 3-degree squares are presented as T-S diagrams. The various watermasses are described and traced. Calculation of the dynamic topography confirms a large North Atlantic anticyclone. Inst. fur Meereskunde, Abt. Meeresphysik, Dusternbrooker Weg 20, 2300 Kiel 1, FRG. (rjs)

AI50. Tides and sea level

82:5228 Houston, J.R., 1982. Node factor variations and joint

occurrences [of surges and the astronomical tide]. J. WatWay Port coast. Ocean Div., Am. Soc. civ. Engrs, 108(WWI):I12-115. U.S. Army Corps of Engrs., Waterways Experiment Station, Vicks- burg, Miss. 39180, USA.

82:5229 Palumbo, A. and A. Mazzarella, 1982. Mean sea

level variations and their practical applications. J. geophys. Res., 87(C6):4249-4256.

Sea level (Naples, Italy), atmospheric pressure, wind, water density and currents are analyzed. Daily mean

664 A. Physical Oceanography OLR (1982) 29 ( 11 )

sea level series adjusted according to the hydrostatic hypothesis show a pronounced seasonal cycle, principally due to the seasonal density cycle. Anal- ysis shows surprisingly small barometric factor values for periods shorter than a week due to the influence of local wind. An autoregressive model for mean sea level forecasting and practical applications has been devised. Ist. di Geol. e Geofis., Univ. di Napoli, Naples, Italy.

A160. Waves, oscillations

82:5230 Boccotti, Paolo, 1982. Relations between character-

istic sea wave parameters. J. geophys. Res., 87(C6):4267-4268.

In the stationary Gaussian model of a sea state, the ratio between mean zero-upcrossing wave amplitude and rms free surface displacement is always less than (~r/2) V2, approaching it when the bandwidth tends to zero (narrow band). This supports a recent expla- nation (Longuet-Higgins, 1980) of a discrepancy between wave data from the Gulf of Mexico and predictions of the narrow band Gaussian model. Hydraulic Inst., Univ. of Genoa, Italy.

82:5231 Bortkovsky, R.S. and D.F. Timanovsky, 1982.

Microstructure of breaking wind-wave crests. Fiz. Atmosf. Okeana, 18(3):327-329. (In Russian.)

82:5232 Huang, Peiji, Binglai Zhao, Laichen Liu and Shuz-

hen Pu, 1981. Distribution function for wind wave heights with a parameterization of the wave growth stage. Acta oceanol, sin., 3(4):639-654. (In Chinese, English abstract.) First Inst. of Oceanogr., National Bureau of Oceanogr., Qingdao, People's Republic of China.

82:5233 Imai, Yutaka, Mitsuhiko Hatori, Masayuki Tokuda

and Yoshiaki Toba, 1981. Experimental study on the strong interaction between regular waves and wind waves. H. Sci. Repts Trhoku Univ., (5, Geophys.)28(2): 87-103.

An individual-wave technique was used in wind- wave tunnel experiments on wave field evolution. Nonlinear interactions were indicated between wind- and regular-wave components when the latter 'began to grow rapidly as the [former] diminished remarka- bly.' Kokusai Kogyo Co., Ltd., Hino Tech. Div., Hino 191, Japan. (isz)

82:5234 Janssen, P.A.E.M., 1982. Quasilinear approximation

for the spectrum of wind-generated water waves. J. Fluid Mech., 117:493-506.

Miles' theory of wind-wave generation and resultant wind profile changes in time owing to the transfer of energy to the waves are examined. In the quasilinear approximation (where interaction of waves with one another is neglected) equations for the coupled air-water system are obtained by means of a multiple-time-scale analysis. While the water waves grow owing to energy transfer from the air flow, the waves in turn modify the flow such that for large times the curvature of the velocity profile vanishes. Wave amplitude is then limited because the energy transfer is quenched. Dept. of Oceanogr. Res., KNMI, DeBilt, Netherlands.

82:5235 Janssen, P.A.E.M. and G.J. Komen, 1982. Modi-

fication of the surface elevation probability distribution in ocean swell by nonlinear spectral broadening. J. geophys. Res., 87(C6):4155-4162.

Effect of the Benjamin-Feir instability on the surface elevation probability distribution is studied. A uniform wave train is unstable to modulational perturbations, giving rise to sidebands in the spectrum of the surface elevation. As these sidebands are phase-locked, deviations from the Gaussian probability distribution are expected. To calculate the surface elevation probability distribution, the end state of the instability is assumed given by a stable cnoidal wave solution. The effect may be relevant for describing swell. Div. of Oceanogr., KNMI, De Bilt, Holland.

82:5236 Joseph, P.S., Sanshiro Kawai and Yoshiaki Toba,

1981. Ocean wave prediction by a hybrid model: combination of single-parameterlzed wind waves with spoctrally treated swells. Sci. Repts T~hoku Univ., (5, Geophys.)28(1):27-45.

Toba's single parameter wind wave growth equation and the authors' previous grid interpolation method are combined with a spectral treatment for swell to produce an ocean wave prediction model. Predicted waves in the intense winds associated with low pressure systems clearly demonstrate the model's ability to reproduce trends in wave development. Treatment of swells, by introducing interchange between swells and wind waves having the self- similar simple spectral form, is sufficient to provide good spectral representation of the wave field. Natl. Inst. of Oceanogr., NIO Post, Dona Paula, 403004, India.

OLR (1982) 29 (11) A. Physical Oceanography 665

82:5237 King, D.R. and P.H. LeBlond, 1982. The lateral wave

at a depth discontinuity in the ocean and its relevance to tsunami propagation. J. Fluid Mech., 117:269-282.

The theory of lateral waves is reviewed in the context of long surface gravity waves; results of wave tank experiments to simulate tsunami propagation are interpreted. It is suggested that since the lateral wave precedes the direct wave at coastal stations, its detection might prove useful in tsunami warning systems. Dept. of Oceanogr., Univ. of British Columbia, Vancouver, Canada.

82:5238 Kutalo, A.A., 1982. Planetary oceanic waves of

seasonal origin. Meteorologiya Gidrol., 1982(1): 71-77. (In Russian, English abstract.)

Observed NE Atlantic water temperatures are compared with those predicted by a hydrodynamic model; analysis confirms that seasonally originating oceanic planetary waves provide the basis for mesoscale thermal field organization. (slr)

82:5239 Lacombe, Henri, 1982. Trapping of waves by a

constant slope internal interface in a two-layer ocean. J. phys. Oceanogr., 12(4):337-360.

The author's previous (1979) suggestion that an internal interface of constant slope (as along the streamlines of a geostrophic current) in a 2-layer (very deep) constant depth ocean can trap waves, in a manner similar to that manifested by trapped edge and shelf waves over a constant nearshore slope, is developed further. Suggestions for future investigations are offered. Lab. d'Oceanogr. Phys. du Museum, 75231 Paris Cedex 05, France. (slr)

82:5240 Lambrakos, K.F., 1982. Seabed wave boundary layer

measurements and analysis. J. geophys. Res., 87(C6):4171-4189.

Velocity measurements above a rough seafloor (18.3 m deep) in the Strait of Juan de Fuca suggest the presence of a wave boundary layer. Wave velocities 0.69 m off-bottom are larger in magnitude and shifted in time relative to velocities at 1.85 m. Fitted to a two-parameter damped oscillator velocity model, boundary layer thickness, bottom shear, and friction coefficient data were consistent with laboratory data, but corresponded to rougher flow conditions. The model implies semi-empirical relationships between boundary layer quantities and free stream velocity and period through an apparent

bottom roughness parameter. Exxon Production Res. Co., Houston, Tex. 77001, USA.

82:5241 Lee, Jiin-Jen, J.E. Skjelbreia and Fredric Raichlen,

1982. Measurement of velocities in solitary waves. J. WatWay Port coast. Ocean Div., Am. Soc. civ. Engrs, 108(WW2):200-218.

Measurements of the horizontal and vertical velocity components were made with a 2-D laser-Doppler velocimeter. Results are presented for 3 wave height-to-depth ratios: 0.11, 0.19 and 0.29. Exper- imental results agree well with existing theories. W.M. Keck Lab. of Hydr. & Water Res., Calif. Inst. of Tech., Pasadena, Calif. 91125, USA.

82:5242 Lewis, J.K., R.E. Whitaker and W.J. Merrell Jr.,

1982. The effects of a stretched-grid coordinate system on long-wave dispersion and energy characteristics. J. geophys. Res., 87(C6):4265- 4266. Sci. Applications, Inc., Bryan, Tex. 77801, USA.

82:5243 Okuda, Kuniaki, 1982. Internal flow structure of

short wind waves. I. Internal vorticity structure. J. oceanogr. Soc. Japan, 38(1):28-42.

Internal flow fields of individual waves generated in a wind-wave tunnel are determined from tracking neutral tracers. Several dynamically important quantities including vorticity distributions, internal pressure fields, and surface-stress distributions are derived. Vorticity beneath the crests of distinct waves is extremely high and the surface vorticity layer is thickened. Geophys. Inst., Tohoku Univ., Sendal 980, Japan. (rjs)

82:5244 Tokuda, Masayuki and Yoshiaki Toba, 1982. Sta-

tistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves. II. Self-consistent similarity regime. J. oceanogr. Soc. Japan, 38(1):8-14.

A self-consistent similarity regime exists among certain properties (nondimensional frequency, wave number, phase speed, steepness) of individual waves. Forms of previous empirical formulas for development of the peak wave were derived starting from the 3/2-power law. Inst. of Coastal Oceanogr., Natl. Res. Center for Dis. Prev., Hiratsuka 254, Japan.

82:5245 Volosov, V.M., 1982. Reflection and refraction of

topographic Rossby waves. Okeanologiia, 22(2): 165-169. (In Russian, English abstract.)

666 A. Physical Oceanography OLR (1982) 29 (I I )

Rhines and Bretherton's (1973) theory is modified for Rossby wave reflection and refraction 'over a mean-depth drop in a homogeneous ocean with small-scale anisotropic bottom relief.' Particle velocities, wave amplitudes, and reflection and transmission coefficients are presented. Total reflection and propagation without reflection are discussed as special cases. (isz)

82:5246 Wang, Hsiang, Tsuguo Sunamura and P.A. Hwang,

1982. Drift velocity at the wave breaking point. Coast. Engng, Amst., 6(2):121-150.

Wave tank experiments were used to measure mass transport velocity (drift velocity) at the wave breaking point under different types of breaking waves on a rigid plane beach. There was little difference between types: drift was onshore near surface and bottom, offshore in the main flow column. Results were compared with theoretical values from 3 different second-order theories. Dept. of Civil Engrg., Univ. of Delaware, Newark, Del. 1971 l, USA. (fcs)

82:5247 West, B.J., 1982. Statistical properties of water waves.

I. Steady-state distribution of wind-driven gravity-capillary waves. J. Fluid Mech., 117:187-210.

The Miles-Phillips model of the linear coupling between waves on the ocean surface and a fluc- tuating wind field is generalized to include the average effect of the nonlinear water-wave interactions in the dynamic equations for gravity- capillary waves; statistical-linearization yields the optimum linear description of the nonlinear terms by linear terms. The average nonlinear interactions quench linear instability generated by the coupling to the mean wind field. An asymptotic steady-state power-spectral density for the water-wave field is calculated for various wind speeds. Center for Studies of Nonlinear Dynamics, La Jolla Inst., P.O. Box 1434, La Jolla, Calif. 92038, USA.

82:5248 Wu, Xiujie, Hongmei Guo, Binglai Zhao and

Quanhui Guo, 1981. Determination o! the joint distribution function of wave periods and heights in a shallow sea. Acta oceanol, sin., 3(4):517-522. (In Chinese, English abstract.) First Inst. of Oceanogr., National Bureau of Oceanogr., Qingdao, People's Republic of China.

82:5249 Yamamoto, Tokuo, 1982. Non-linear mechanics of

ocean wave interactions with sediment beds. Appl. Ocean Res., 4(2):99-106.

The effects of seabed elasticity on water wave dispersion and of soil internal friction and pore-fluid viscosity on wave damping are investigated; a theory is developed for a sloped inhomogeneous porous bed with nonlinear elasticity and nonlinear Coulomb damping. Results are compared with soil-wave tank experiments. In general, sandy sediments have small effects on wave energy compared to clay sediments. RSMAS, Univ. of Miami, 4600 Rickenbacker Cause- way, Miami, Fla. 33149, USA. (fcs)

A170. Wind-wave interactions

82:5250 Dalin, R.A., 1982. [Wind wave calculations: accuracy

in relation to wave forming factors.I Meteoro- Iogiya Gidrol., 1982(2):77-81. (In Russian, Eng- lish abstract.)

By 'linearizing the function of random arguments,' the degrees of accuracy of initial values of wave- forming factors (wind speed, acceleration, and duration) necessary to assure sufficient practical accuracy in predicting wave mean heights and periods are calculated. (dlf)

82:5251 Kawamura, Hiroshi, Kuniaki Okuda, Sanshiro

Kawai and Yoshiaki Toba, 1981. Structure of the turbulent boundary layer over wind waves in a wind wave tunnel. Sci. Repts T6hoku Univ., (5, Geophys.)28(2) :69-86.

Vertical profiles of air-flow mean velocity, turbulent intensity and Reynolds stress were constructed for the case of both waves and the turbulent boundary layer developing with the fetch; resultant boundary layer structure was compared with that of flow over a flat plate. Velocity and wind wave time series were examined with regard to Reynolds stresses. Geo- phys. Inst., Tohoku Univ., Sendal 980, Japan. (slr)

82:5252 Koga, Momoki and Yoshiaki Toba, 1981. Droplet

distribution and dispersion processes over breaking wind waves [in a wind-wave tankl. Sci. Repts Tbhoku Univ., (5, Geophys.)28(1):1-25.

About half of all droplets of diameter d :>450/~m exist at a level beneath the wave crest; vertical distribution of droplet concentration is nearly constant beneath the wave crest and decreases exponentially with height above the crest. Air turbulence is the dominant dispersal mechanism for droplets d ~ 120 #m, 'vertical free motion of ejection' for those d >810/~m; both mechanisms operate at

OI .R (1982) 29 ( I I ) A. Physical O c e a n o g r a p h y 667

intermediate droplet sizes. Geophys. Inst., Tohoku Univ., Sendai 980, Japan. (slr)

82:5253 Makin, V.K., 1982. Energy transfer from wind to sea

surface waves. Fiz. Atrnosf. Okeana, 18(3):324- 327. (In Russian.)

A180. Internal waves and tides

82:5254 Chapman, D.C., 1982. Nearly trapped internal edge

waves in a geophysical ocean. Deep-Sea Res., 29(4A):525-533.

Refractively trapped, mode-one, linear internal edge waves are found along the simple coastal topography of a step-shelf bordering a constant-depth, non- rotating ocean. As total reflection at the shelf break is impossible, these nearly trapped internal edge waves always radiate some energy to the deep sea. They are the internal counterparts of the highly trapped surface edge waves in a uniformly stratified ocean. WHOI, Woods Hole, Mass. 02543, USA.

82:5255 D'Asaro, Eric, 1982. Absorption of internal waves by

the benthic boundary layer. J. phys. Oceanogr., 12(4):323-336.

It is suggested that the benthic boundary layer on a flat bottom plays a minor role in dissipating internal-wave energy. The boundary layer is implied to be driven primarily by low-frequency motions, not internal waves. Appl. Phys. Lab., Univ. of Wash- ington, Seattle, Wash. 98105, USA.

82:5256 Ermakov, S.A., S.I. Kozlov, K.V. Pokazeev and A.D.

Rozenberg, 1982. Laboratory investigation of the influence of internal waves on regular surface waves. Okeanologiia, 22(2):204-210. (In Russian, English abstract.)

82:5257 Hotchkiss, F.S. and Carl Wunsch, 1982. Internal

waves in Hudson Canyon with possible geological implications. Deep-Sea Res., 29(4A)'415-442.

Internal wave energy was intensified at the head and near the floor of the canyon, with phase lags suggestive of propagation up the canyon from the deep sea. Significant diurnal and semidiurnal internal tides were present, indicating generation at the topographic relief around the canyon. Internal wave energy is apparently dissipated by mixing at the

canyon head. Strong storm-induced currents are probably more important than internal waves as sediment carriers except in the very head of the canyon. WHOI, Woods Hole, Mass. 02543, USA.

82:5258 Meiss, J.D. and K.M. Watson, 1982. Internal-wave

interactions in the induced-diffusion approximation. J. Fluid Mech., 117:315-341.

Dynamical equations for the 'induced-diffusion' interactions of high-wavenumber, high-frequency internal waves with a prescribed, linear, large-scale internal-wave field are obtained from the Boussi- nesq-Euler equations. Exact equations are derived in the induced-diffusion limit of McComas and Breth- erton (1977) for evolution of the first and second moments of the small-scale flow when the large-scale flow is assumed random. Computations of the autocorrelation function and action transport in wavenumber and physical space are presented. Severe limitations are found on the applicability of two-time perturbation theory and the resonant- interaction approximation; McComas and Brether- ton's high transfer rates in the induced-diffusion regime are reduced significantly. Inst. for Fusion Studies, Univ. of Texas, Austin, Tex., USA.

82:5259 Samodurov, A.S., 1982. A model of the climatic

spectrum of internal waves in the ocean. Okeano- logiia, 22(2):182-185. (In Russian, English abstract.)

82:5260 Simard, Ang61e and W.R. Peltier, 1982. Ship waves

in the lee of isolated topography. J. atmos. Sci., 39(3):587-609.

A 3-D, linear steady-state model, designed to simulate the internal wave field forced by stratified flow over topography, directly assimilates radio- sonde data on wind and temperature; its primary purpose is in the design of 3-D nonlinear experiments. The model is used to predict (rather accurately) ship wave patterns observed in the lee of isolated islands in the Norwegian and Barents seas. Dept. of Phys., Univ. of Toronto, Ontario M5S IA7, Canada.

82:5261 Voronovich, A.G., 1982. Propagation of a packet of

nonlinear internal waves in media with constant Vlisll/i frequency. Fiz. Atrnosf. Okeana, 18(3): 320-324. (In Russian.)

668 A, Physical Oceanography OLR (1982) 29 (11)

A210. Ice

82:5262 Boyarsky, V.I., 1982. Electrical properties' change of

one-year sea ice during its growth. Fiz. A tmosf. Okeana, 18(3):296-301. (In Russian, English abstract.)

A technique to measure drifting sea ice electrical properties is described along with actual measurements of 'specific attenuation, reflection coefficient and nanosecond videopulse signal propagation speed.' Liquid phase volume changes under ice- forming conditions are plotted against ice electrical property changes. (slr)

82:5266 Zakrzewska, Magdalena, 1981. Model for thermal

ice-piling and its application to Puck Bay [Poland]. Acta geophys, pol., 29(2): 123-138. Inst. of Oceanol., Polish Acad. of Sci., Sopot, Poland.

A240. Optical properties

82:5267 Luchinin, A.G., 1982. Some features of the optical

transmission function of a rough sea surface. Fiz. Atmosf. Okeana, 18(3):330-333. (In Russian.)

82:5263 Carey, V.P. and Benjamin Gebhart, 1982. Transport

near a vertical ice surface melting in saline water: some numerical calculations. J. Fluid Mech., 117:379-402.

A reformulation of a previous model (Gebhart and Mollendorf, 1978) for buoyancy flows in which density extrema occur is used to investigate the boundary layer flow and transport in water with salinities 0-35 ppt. Combinations of temperature and salinity for which there are departures from boundary-layer flow are avoided. There is good agreement with experimental data and these data indicate conditions at transition zones. Dept. of Mech. and Aerospace Engrg., SUNY, Amherst, NY J4260. USA. (rjs)

82:5264 Carey, V.P. and Benjamin Gebhart, 1982. Transport

near a vertical ice surface melting in saline water: experiments at low salinities. J. Fluid Mech., 117:403-423.

Buoyancy-driven flow adjacent to a vertical ice surface submerged in water with salinity l0 ppt is discussed for temperatures 1 °-15°C. Time-exposure photography is used to document the patterns. As the temperature increased from 1 °C the flow evolved from upward to bi-directional and finally to split flow. At 15°C the flow was turbulent over most of the surface. Dept. of Mech. and Aerospace Engrg., SUNY, Amherst, NY 14260, USA. (rjs)

82:5265 Valeur, H.H., 1981. The ice conditions in Greenland

waters. [Original reconnaissance charts and monthly general ice-condition charts.] Publner danske met. Inst., 1966:ca. 150 pp.

A250. Electromagnetic properties

82:5268 Virovliansky, A.L. and A.N. Malakhov, 1982. A

mechanism for electric field appearance in the ocean. Fiz. Atmosf. Okeana, 18(3):333-335. (In Russian.)

A260. Acoustics

82:5269 Beran, M.J., A.M. Whitman and S. Frankenthal,

1982. Scattering calculations using the characteristic rays of the coherence function. J. acoust. Soc. Am., 71(5):1124-1130.

The two-scale expansion is used to calculate the scattering of acoustic radiation in a random medium with a variable sound speed profile. Equations are derived showing how the coherence function varies along the characteristic rays. Conditions are given for simplifying the equations for high-frequency quasi-isotropic scattering. Problems arising in a highly anisotropic medium are discussed; an approximate solution is given. Intensity variation due to scattering in the neighborhood of a caustic is calculated. Sch. of Engrg., Tel-Aviv Univ., Tel-Aviv, Israel.

82:5270 Itzikowitz, S., M.J. Jacobson and W.L. Siegmann,

1982. Short-range acoustic transmissions through cyclonic eddies between a submerged source and receiver. J. acoust. Soc. Am., 71(5):1131-1144.

Consequences of eddy-induced sound-speed and current variations on acoustic propagation are considered using ray theory. For ranges of tens of km, those rays which exist for particular source and

OLR (1982) 29 ( 11 ) A. Physical Oceanography 669

receiver depth and range values are determined; sound-speed and current effects on per-ray travel time and spreading loss are investigated; and eddy effects on total-field amplitude and phase are examined. Eddy currents alone have a significant effect away from the eddy center for certain rays and when source and receiver change orientations. Rensselaer Polytech. Inst., Troy, NY 12181, USA.

82:5271 Liszka, E.G. and J.J. McCoy, 1982. Scattering at a

rough boundary: extensions of the Kirchhoff approximation. J. acoust. Soc. Am., 71(5):1093- 1100.

A series solution of a boundary surface integral equation is constructed by iteration, the zeroth-order term of the series being the result predicted by a Kirchhoff approximation. It is demonstrated that the Kirchhoff approximation is not a complete high- frequency approximation and that multiple reflec- tions and shadowings need be incorporated. A proper manner for renormalizing the series solution, thereby removing convergence difficulties, is considered. Naval Sea Systems Command, Washington, DC 20362, USA.

82:5272 Tindle, C.T., 1982. Attenuation parameters from

normal mode measurements. J. acoust. Soc. Am., 71(5):1145-1148.

A new method of determining the bottom attenuation coefficient in shallow water measures normal mode amplitudes relative to the lowest mode at a single location. These relative mode amplitudes are compared with theoretical results to obtain the bottom attenuation coefficient. The method does not require source level calibration nor measurements at different ranges. Increased attenuation as modes approach cutoff is in good agreement with theory. Phys. Dept., Univ. of Auckland, Private Bag, Auckland, New Zealand.

82:5273 Zhang, Renhe, 1981. Smooth-averaged sound field in

shallow water. Acta oceanol, sin., 3(4):535-545. (In Chinese, English abstract.) Inst of Acoustics, Acad. Sinica, People's Republic of China.

A290. Physical processes, properties (diffusion, turbulence, etc.)

82:5274 Bryan, Kirk, 1982. Puleward heat transport by the

ocean: observations and models. A. Rev. Earth planet. Sci., 10:15-38.

Role of the oceans in the global heat balance is reviewed with the poleward flux of water included where possible. Both short (historical) and long (geological) changes in climate have been inade- quately explained due to the unknown elements of heat redistribution in the ocean. Further numerical modelling and observations will provide the needed insight. G F D Lab. NOAA, Princeton Univ., Prince- ton, N.J. 08540, USA. (rjs)

82:5275 D'Asaro, Eric, 1982. Velocity structure of the benthic

ocean. J. phys. Oceanogr., 12(4):313-322.

Velocity measurements in the Hatteras Abyssal Plain bottom boundary layer are examined for turbulence indicators. Velocity fluctuations in the near-inertial and high-frequency ( 1 4 cph) bands display mixed- layer signatures; high-frequency velocities measure primarily boundary-layer turbulence. The turbulence is modulated on inertial and tidal time scales and extends intermittently to the mixed layer top. Near-inertial velocities are less energetic within the mixed layer than above. These observations suggest that the entire bottom mixed layer is at least intermittently turbulent. Appl. Phys. Lab., Univ. of Washington, Seattle, Wash. 98105, USA.

82:5276 Dore, B.D., 1982. On the second approximation to

mass transport in the bottom boundary layer. Coast. Engng, Amst., 6(2):93-120.

Longuet-Higgins (1953, 1958) first calculated a mass transport velocity (drift velocity) for an oscillatory bottom boundary layer beneath sinusoidal waves of finite amplitude, but measured mass transports have generally been much smaller than those predicted by his first approximation. Here an extension to the original expression is obtained by including a third-order term in the wave-slope parameter to yield a second approximation which, in the main, cor- responds more closely with measurements for both progressive and standing waves. Deficiencies of other higher order theories are disclosed. Dept. of Math., Univ. of Reading, Whiteknights, Reading RG6 2AX, UK. (fcs)

82:5277 McClimans, T.A. and S. Saegrov, 1982. River plume

studies in distorted Froude models. J. hydraul. Res., 20(1): 15-25.

A laboratory study extends simulations of river flows to the case of a densimetric Froude number and a stratified receiving basin. Distorted Froude models are accurate as long as the aspect ratio (width to depth) is greater than l0 in the laboratory, the depth

670 A. Physical Oceanography OL R (1982) 29 ( 11 )

of the salinity stratification is > 1 cm, and the depth of thermal stratification is > 4 cm. Norwegian Hydrodynamic Lab., Trondheim, Norway. (rjs)

82:5278 Ostendorf, D.W., 1982. Longshore dispersion over a

flat beach. J. geophys. Res., 87(C6):4241-4248.

Longshore dispersion of a passive, conservative pollutant in the surf zone of a flat beach is modelled; pollutants disperse in a Fickian manner through a plane moving at the areal-averaged longshore current speed when the shore-normal concentration variation is small, with a longshore dispersivity reflecting diffusive and advective transport processes. An existing estimate of the turbulent diffusion is adopted and an existing longshore current model is modified to derive a theoretical estimate of the longshore dispersivity; the model is calibrated with field data, generating accurate and physically plausible results. Dept. of Civl Engrg., Univ. of Massachusetts, Amherst, Mass. 01003, USA.

82:5279 Shabrin, A.N., 1982. Criteria characterizing a fluid

current under conditions of stable stratification, Meteorologiya Gidrol., 1982(2):69-76. (In Rus- sian, English abstract.)

Experiments confirm a 'single-value interrelation between stability of the interface layer of different- density fluids and the flow frequency/buoyancy ratio.' (isz)

82:5280 Walin, G0sta, 1982. On the relation between sea-

surface heat flow and thermal circulation in the o c e a n . Tellus, 34(2):187-195.

For low and medium temperatures, poleward surface drift can be determined from heat flux through the sea surface. Preliminary quantitative estimates indicate that Hadley circulation for the entire ocean involves a volume flux of order 70 __+ 30 Sverdrup. The North Atlantic poleward drift of order 10 Sverdrup compares well with previous estimates of southward deep flow. Mean values for the oceanic diffusive flux are of order 20 W / m 2 at 15°C and 60 W / m 2 at 25°C. Dept. of Oceanogr., Univ. of Gothenburg, P.O. Box 4038, S-400 40 Gothenburg, Sweden.

82:5281 Zhurbas, V.M., 1982. Generation mechanisms of

flnestrocture of the velocity field in the ocean.

Okeanologiia, 22(2):186-191. (In Russian, Eng- lish abstract.)

Geostrophic turbulence and internal waves are implicated in velocity field finestructure in the vicinity of large density gradients. (isz)

A300. Fluid mechanics

82:5282 Hyun, Jae Min, W.W. Fowlis and Alex Warn-

Varnas, 1982. Numerical solutions for the spin-up of a stratified fluid. J. Fluid Mech., 117:71-90. NASA, Marshall Space Flight Center, Ala. 35812, USA.

82:5283 Lee, S.L., 1982. Aspects of suspension shear flows.

(Review.) Adv. appl. Mech., 22:1-65.

This review of 2-phase dilute suspended (shear) flow has 3 parts: (1) laminar shear flow of a 2-phase system with varying drag, lift, density and particle volumes; (2) experimental developments using laser Doppler anemometry; and (3) turbulent shear flow emphasizing particle interaction with eddies in the surrounding fluid. Dept. of Mech. Engrg., SUNY, Stony Brook, N.Y., USA. (has)

82:5284 Sleath, J.F.A., 1982. The effect of jet formation on the

velocity distribution in oscillatory flow over flat beds of sand or gravel. Coast. Engng, Amst., 6(2):151-177. Univ. Engrg. Dept., Cambridge CB2 IPZ, UK.

A340. Miscellaneous

82:5285 Reid, J.L., 1982. Evidence of an effect of heat flux

from the East Pacific Rise upon the characteristics of the mid-depth waters. Geophys. Res. Letts, 9(4):381-384.

'On a mid-depth isopycnal surface in the South Pacific, there is a zone of high temperature near 10°-20°S. Heat flux from the crest of the EPR and westward flow of the heated water may account for this temperature pattern.' Scripps Inst. of Oceanogr., La Jolla, Calif. 92093, USA.

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A. Physical oceanography