A Comparative Study of Low Stress Mechanical Properties on Wool/Wool Blend Fabrics

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A Comparative Study of Low Stress Mechanical Properties on Wool/Wool Blend Fabrics. Jimmy K. C. Lam Institute of Textiles & Clothing, the Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong Ron Postle, School of Chemistry, University of New South Wales, Australia. Presentation Outline. - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

Text of A Comparative Study of Low Stress Mechanical Properties on Wool/Wool Blend Fabrics

  • A Comparative Study of Low Stress Mechanical Properties on Wool/Wool Blend Fabrics Jimmy K. C. LamInstitute of Textiles & Clothing, the Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong

    Ron Postle,School of Chemistry, University of New South Wales, Australia

    Advanced in Fibrous Materials, Nonwoven and Technical Textiles (AFINT2006), India

  • Presentation OutlineIntroduction and BackgroundExperimental Details KES-F Systems Wool/Wool Blend FabricsResults and DiscussionsFabric Surface PropertiesFabric Compression PropertiesConclusions

    Advanced in Fibrous Materials, Nonwoven and Technical Textiles (AFINT2006), India

  • Introduction and BackgroundThe application of Fabric Objective Measurement (FOM) to fabric hand in terms of Primary Hand Values and Total Hand Value has several limitations.Firstly, the result of hand value can be by judgment (native or expert).Secondly, the interpretation of hand value (smoothness, stiffness or softness) is different from one country to another.Thirdly, the lack of visual physiological and psychological assessment from KES-F measurement make the interpretation of fabric hand value somewhat abstract.

    Advanced in Fibrous Materials, Nonwoven and Technical Textiles (AFINT2006), India

  • Introduction and Background 2In this paper, the application of Fabric Objective Measurement in the textile and apparel supply chain is analyzed by a comparative study of low-stress mechanical properties for light weight wool/wool blend fabrics.These fabrics are intended for high quality suiting fabricsThe objectives of this study are to determine the major mechanical properties of these fabrics in relation to their fibre composition, fabric construction as well as their mechanical parameters

    Advanced in Fibrous Materials, Nonwoven and Technical Textiles (AFINT2006), India

  • Experimental DetailsFifty-eight lightweight wool and wool blend fabrics studied in this paper. The fabric weight ranges from 125 g/m2 to 273 g/m2 with an average of 179 g/m2. The fibre composition is pure wool, wool/polyester or wool/silk blend fabrics and the fabric structure is plain, twill, satin or doeskin The order of mechanical property testing is in the following sequence: fabric surface testing first, then compression, bending, shear and finally tensile testing, with steadily increasing fabric stress levels

    Advanced in Fibrous Materials, Nonwoven and Technical Textiles (AFINT2006), India

  • Fabrics DetailsThe fabric characteristics for wool/wool blend fabrics

    Advanced in Fibrous Materials, Nonwoven and Technical Textiles (AFINT2006), India

  • Results and DiscussionsSurface PropertiesFabric surface properties can be described using KES-FB-4 surface test to measure fabric parameters such as coefficient of friction (MIU), fabric mean deviation (MMD) and fabric geometrical roughness (SMD)Factors such as fibre composition, fibre friction properties, fabric construction and finishing treatments, would influence the fabric surface properties

    Advanced in Fibrous Materials, Nonwoven and Technical Textiles (AFINT2006), India

  • Effect of Fabric Weave on Surface Properties

    Advanced in Fibrous Materials, Nonwoven and Technical Textiles (AFINT2006), India

    Chart1

    0.1520.203

    0.146250.181

    0.1370.187

    0.1498750.165

    0.16750.158

    0.1556250.194

    0.1273750.18

    0.157750.161

    0.1260.173

    0.148250.157

    0.1458750.2

    0.14750.179

    0.1570.194

    0.1478750.193

    0.1241250.212

    0.1690.17

    0.14550.174

    0.14350.174

    0.17133333330.18

    0.14033333330.198

    0.16183333330.176

    0.1648333333

    0.1433333333

    0.16

    0.174

    0.19

    0.198

    0.152

    0.159

    0.179

    0.157

    0.1761

    0.157

    0.16

    0.142

    0.146

    0.15

    twill

    Plain

    Fabric

    Fabric Coefficient of friction

    Fabric coefficient of friction (MIU) and fabric weave

    weight

    Mass/AreaTmTo

    2200.3530.577

    1930.3380.555

    2060.3630.563

    1800.3200.518

    2000.3550.583

    1800.3080.477

    2000.3770.558

    1500.2650.423

    1500.2680.433

    2000.3850.622

    1850.3920.555

    2000.4080.678

    2730.5330.757

    2000.4230.735

    1500.2800.462

    1400.2900.387

    1850.3250.398

    1730.3450.445

    1500.3130.420

    1500.2730.375

    1540.2880.390

    2000.3930.555

    2000.4180.492

    1250.2500.450

    1450.2750.483

    1460.3800.450

    1480.2320.375

    1530.2960.500

    1840.4120.617

    1940.3440.500

    1980.4330.642

    2080.4540.683

    2420.4670.717

    1760.3650.628

    1510.3210.564

    1570.2860.472

    1630.3380.568

    1790.3810.601

    1510.3250.545

    1860.4180.678

    1490.3310.590

    1530.3710.640

    1770.3480.533

    2570.5060.758

    2480.5030.723

    1450.4010.657

    1560.3360.528

    1600.3350.552

    1800.3700.562

    1470.2940.472

    1690.4180.685

    1490.3200.530

    1870.3740.577

    2110.4140.632

    2110.4670.710

    1710.3240.529

    2170.4150.633

    1860.4180.608

    weight

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    Tm

    Fabric Weight (g/m2)

    Fabric Thickness (mm)

    raw-data

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    To

    Fabric Weigth (g/m2)

    Fabric Thickness (mm)

    data

    Fabric SettYarn CountFabric Crimp

    ToTmEMCLCWCRCB-1B-22HB-12HB-2G-12HG-12HG5-1EMT-1EMT-2LT-1LT-2WT-1WT-2RT-1RT-2Mass/Area(threads per cm)(tex)(%)FiberWeave

    Fabric ID(mm)(mm)(%)(N/m)(%)(mN.m/m)(mN.m/m)(N/m.radian)(N/m)(N/m)(%)(%)(%)(%)(micron)(micron)WarpWeftWarpWeftWarpWeftCodeCode

    F10.5770.35338.70.200.1171.811.7726.8670.3430.20445.010.650.646.410.30.590.579.2714.3970.465.40.1520.1500.0130.0132.802.59220353215

    F20.5550.33838.90.240.1378.411.3636.5400.3270.17243.600.580.576.88.10.530.578.8811.2868.966.70.1460.1560.0140.0122.952.43193333215

    F30.5630.36335.30.260.1375.010.0556.2130.3350.22948.880.780.776.16.50.660.659.8810.4169.970.00.1370.1390.0170.0103.271.9520623

    F40.5180.32038.30.260.1295.712.1814.7420.2860.13154.360.590.586.023.30.870.6112.4135.0770.256.10.1500.1570.0320.0197.335.9318026231

    F50.5830.35539.00.200.1176.410.7915.8860.3190.17247.620.700.697.411.70.680.5912.4317.0066.562.20.1680.1950.0120.0112.562.1120015

    F60.4770.30835.30.270.1187.48.5024.3330.2530.13945.460.560.556.111.60.670.659.9718.3963.160.60.1560.1580.0120.0102.561.8518015

    F70.5580.37732.50.220.1081.410.3015.3960.2780.15576.980.560.554.27.40.590.626.0511.3184.974.10.1270.1400.0120.0172.822.86200223323

    F80.4230.26537.30.350.1499.45.4774.1690.1880.11449.670.670.664.814.20.650.587.6420.3177.667.60.1580.1350.0120.0163.865.97150252316

    F90.4330.26838.00.340.1496.25.8043.4340.1310.09843.120.490.484.714.30.620.617.1321.4879.166.30.1260.1420.0100.0172.042.97150373715

    F100.6220.38537.90.250.1467.99.0743.6790.4170.14748.460.820.805.58.50.660.688.9414.1970.972.20.1480.1380.0140.0084.042.1020013

    F110.5550.39229.40.260.1070.16.3774.5780.1880.13945.990.640.6312.818.70.580.6018.2827.4768.467.10.1460.2080.0100.0142.843.82185393314

    F120.6780.40839.70.240.1666.312.1815.3960.3430.14743.490.650.644.97.40.620.647.4911.5873.670.20.1480.1490.0190.0155.512.50200212723

    F130.7570.53329.40.240.1357.826.3249.3200.6700.24547.200.620.6110.59.70.580.6314.9814.9465.467.80.1570.1770.0230.0135.342.88273392713

    F140.7350.42342.20.210.1667.613.1625.6410.3110.16450.910.790.766.28.10.680.6610.3313.2669.368.80.1480.1320.0170.0124.632.55200343113

    F150.4620.28039.26.1315.8860.1720.14744.810.460.455.97.70.590.628.6011.7268.369.70.1240.1350.0130.0262.784.11150353325

    F160.3870.29025.00.060.0681.15.6574.0550.1180.08540.460.460.456.59.40.650.6010.2413.6871.971.00.1690.1680.0440.0188.205.421401

    F170.3980.32518.45.9844.0220.1470.12456.380.720.716.17.00.740.7611.1013.1567.362.90.1460.1420.0210.0102.941.7118513

    F180.4450.34522.59.3203.7930.2780.18044.390.590.586.912.40.560.599.5017.9765.465.40.1440.1820.0150.0173.752.7417336

    F190.4200.31325.45.8864.0220.2060.13447.010.590.585.712.20.650.649.0719.2663.256.80.1710.1660.0310.0167.815.6415026

    F200.3750.27327.16.2463.9570.1830.11856.190.490.484.013.30.730.577.0818.1865.097.30.1400.1630.0250.0296.425.4515036

    F210.3900.28826.07.0635.0030.2320.11453.940.780.774.710.90.690.717.9319.0560.354.20.1620.1620.0600.0328.957.4815436

    F220.5550.39329.10.130.1265.99.3207.2270.2880.23249.260.590.584.58.30.710.597.7712.0862.396.70.1650.1740.0140.0183.122.9920036

    F230.4920.41814.99.2877.2920.3300.22650.380.780.774.98.50.720.688.5814.3163.358.60.1430.1620.0110.0152.992.8020036

    W10.4500.25044.40.340.1791.55.3795.2320.3270.30237.760.821.544.44.90.610.596.657.1070.367.70.2030.1670.0240.0493.422.142125262426267.05.121

    W20.4830.27543.10.360.1893.36.9498.3390.2700.39946.000.881.935.34.30.580.647.496.7074.969.00.1810.2070.0320.0276.9326.438145232031315.9

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