A Beginners Guide.

Having spent a goodly portion of one recent Sunday assisting new comers to the club I thought that I would put my bit of advice out on this inter-web thingy.

There is much good advice out there for the beginner to our sport, see the BMFA website for example, this is just my spin on the subject. This advice is specifically for those considering a glow engine model; I do not know enough about electric or other models to pontificate on anything else.

Do your Homework:If you have decided to give the sport a go don’t rush out to the nearest model shop, or web site, and buy the first thing that comes to hand and looks good. Investigate clubs in your area and go along and see what they are doing. See if you like the people and the site.

If so then talk to the people flying and find out what the clubs policy is. Do they have a preference for the type of radio equipment? Some clubs have a spare transmitter with buddy lead for training (ours has a buddy lead anyway!). Clearly it makes sense to buy a compatible system. Do they recommend a trainer aircraft? Again if there is experience of a particular model it makes sense to piggy back onto that and use that experience to your advantage. The club may have links to

local model shops that will offer a discount on the models and equipment. It’s always worth asking.

First Models:Of course if you can’t stand the thought of flying any of the models suggested or can’t decided between several options or no suggestions are fourth coming (in this case consider another club!) then you need to make your own choice.

There many models sold as trainers, and they should (note should) all have a number of features in common:

1) Relatively stable, if left to their own devices and given enough height they will recover to level flight. This virtually mandates a high wing with dihedral (the angle the wings make to the horizontal when viewed head on)

The Sig Kadet above is a 'classic' trainer with a boxy fuselage and simple construction.

2) Robust. Now robust does not mean heavy, it means strengthened in the right

places to allow the model a certain degree of ‘bounce-ability’ but still light enough to fly well. This is where you need advice, as a beginner you have no way of assessing this.

The Flair Kite (formerly ATS Kite) is a more modern design with a bit more 'style' but still light and strong.

3) Easy to build and repair. Of course the easiest models to build are the ARTFs (Almost Ready To Fly) variety. The "Arising Star" is a good example.

On the downside they are not always easy to repair because you don’t know how it

was built (you didn’t build it). They are an excellent introduction and many represent good value for money. However do not be put off buying a kit and building your own. You need only a modest amount of practical ability and a few tools, and the reward of seeing your model fly is tremendous.

Other suitable trainers are the UnoWot kit from Chris Foss, another British design (left), and the ARTF Tutor from Irvine (below left)

At the end of the day you pay your money and take your choice!

Engines:The majority of trainers use a 0.40cu in (6.5 cc) sized glow engine, commonly called a ‘Forty’. Note that engines are still sold by capacity in cubic inches first with cc quoted (if at all) second. Very few modellers think in anything other than cu. ins. for engine size. There are very many of these standard 40 sized engines on sale. Again talk to your club, but be prepared for as many preferences as people you ask!

In my experience the old adage you get what you pay for applies in full force to engines. I have had very few good experiences

with the cheaper engines, but I also know people that rate them highly. Most model outlets will sell a Beginners package deal of model and engine (often other essentials to) and these are generally a very good start.

From left to right below we have: OS 25, top of the range; Irvine 40 mid price and SC40 best of the cheapies.

RadioAgain you get what you pay applies here. Do not be tempted by the cheaper radios (not that there are many) or the build your

own route unless you really know your way around electronics. Cheap servos are another source problems, don’t be tempted. Again model outlets offer suitable package deals with the model etc., look at these first.

Do not be tempted to buy a radio with hundred of bells and whistles. For your first few models they are not needed. Get a standard 4 channel set up. Four channels control ailerons, elevator, rudder and engine. That is all you need even for later aerobatic or scale models (much later!).

A simple count down timer on the transmitter is useful however for warning you that the fuel is getting low. However the radio manufactures don't agree with me on that and it isn't often available!

There are two basic types of encoding the signals; these know as PPM and PCM. The cheaper versions are all PPM and there is absolutely nothing wrong with these. The PCM system offer extra features specifically a fail safe setting that puts the model into a know state (e.g. engine at idle, controls at neutral) if the radio connection is lost. This can be a model saver in some circumstance and is worth considering but is not essential for small trainers. When you start flying large fast aerobatic or multi engine scale model then it is essential!

Second-hand radio sets can be a good buy; but ask two questions 1) why is it being sold and 2) what condition is it in.

If 1) is genuine then look very carefully at the bits. Are the servo mounts damaged, is the receiver case cracked or otherwise damaged. This suggests crash damage walk away! If the transmitter is covered in oil likewise walk away, it suggests that the equipment has been looked after.

Building or assembling the modelWhether you buy a kit or ARTF model read and follow the manufacture’s instructions very very closely. You are constructing a

machine that potentially can be very dangerous, apart from the fact that you want it to fly successfully, and it is important to put it all together as well as possible.

Pay close attention to the relative alignment of the wings and tail and fin to the fuselage (particularly if you are building a kit), if the flying surfaces are not properly aligned the model will never fly well.

If you are unsure about anything then seek advice, do not be afraid that experienced modellers will think you are stupid or some such. On the contrary they will appreciate your efforts to get it right. Again approach your local club (hopefully by now you are a member) or the model shop. Note that this is where local model shops score over internet purchases; unfortunately they

are a dying bred because they can’t compete on overheads.As each ARTF model or kit is different there is no point in offering a lot of general advice. However if you are building a kit do make sure you understand how the various adhesives and glues you will use work and keep all joints tight and clean. Build strong but build light weight is your enemy.

When fixing equipment make sure it fits cleanly, i.e. do not jam things in, but then make sure it is very secure. There is a lot of vibration which will damage equipment not properly mounted, or shake loose equipment not properly secured. Once again

follow the radio and engine manufacturer’s instructions exactly or seek advice if not sure.

In particular make sure the receiver is held in place with foam, firmly enough to stop it coming out if you shake the model

upside down, but soft enough that vibration isn’t transmitted to the electronics. Servos should be securely screwed to firm mounts using the brass and rubber grommets supplied.

The engine must be secure. Use anti-vibration washers or nyloc-nuts on machine screws in all cases.

You can use self tapping screws to hold the engine to a nylon engine mount, and the

mount to the firewall, but make sure you don’t make the holes too big for the screws. It always wise to do some test drilling in scrape material first.

After initial assembly dismantle the entire engine installation and fuel proof the engine bay. Fuel and wood are a poor mix and eventually the fuel will weaken the mounting. This applies even to ARTF models in my opinion, be sure they are fuel proofed where ever fuel could cause a problem. Leak test the tank before installation.

Ensure the receiver aerial is safely routed, preferably outside the fuselage and away from servos as soon as possible.

Make sure hinges are secure after final fixing, give all the control surfaces a good tug at each hinge point. Better to find the weakness now than have it come off in flight! Make sure the control horns are screwed into firm mounts, not just a bit of soft

balsa. If you can’t fix the horn to anything other than balsa strengthen the holes and area by flooding with thin cyano glue.

Before you flyBefore you attempt to fly the model, or more likely ask somebody to fly it for you, be sure that everything is checked out thoroughly and that you are familiar with the operation of the equipment and starting and running the engine.

The engine will need running in before first flights; otherwise it will not run reliably and could result in a crash on take off. Follow the engine manufactures instructions to the letter; do not skimp on this stage. It will also allow you to become familiar with

starting and running the engine and may highlight anything on the model that isn't properly secured.

Be certain that the model is secured when ever you are starting and running the engine on the ground. Believe me, you really don't want a running engine in your lap! There are various tried and tested methods of doing this, again ASK, and see what they do at your club.

CHECK LISTI still use a 30 point check list after I think I have completed the model and before I fly on all new models and after any major rebuilds. Not all the items will be relevant to every model, but at some stage I have missed one of these points and it has been a problem (sometimes a very big problem!).

Don't forget a flight box and starting equipment; again get a deal in the shop

LearningThe ideal way to learn is with a buddy lead. This connects your transmitter to one held by the instructor and allows him to give/take control at the flick of a switch.

Failing this you have to do the transmitter shuffle; the instructor hands you the transmitter, or grabs it back if things go wrong. The later action is the one that can be interesting!!

It is possible to teach yourself the hard way by just going out and doing it, but I wouldn’t recommend it unless you really have no other choice. I doubt if any club would allow you to do this in any case.

All instructor-pupil relationships are different but you must be comfortable with each other and of course trust each other. It’s your model he’s flying after all. Don’t expect too much on the first flights, just steering the model around the sky is an achievement. The usual comment from pupils I hear after the first few flights is it’s harder than it looks.. A good instructor should explain things as they happen and help with the ground work as well as the flying. Again don’t be afraid to ask questions if something isn’t clear. Equally don’t be afraid to discuss your progress, if you think you can go faster, or need to go slower, tell the instructor. He flies model aircraft he doesn’t read minds.