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9
The Fashion Design Segment
Chapter
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Objectives• Explain the price market categories of
apparel.• Define designer collection showings.• Describe how designers capitalize on
their name recognition.• Summarize the designing process for
fashions.
continued
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Objectives• Identify the world’s fashion centers
and their specialties.• Recognize some influential fashion
design names and labels.• Cite U.S. fashion associations and
awards.
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Fashion Design• Fashion design is the art of combining
beauty and function into new clothing and accessory creations
• Fashions are designed and produced at various price levels
• The designing process is based on needs of the market combined with creative inspiration
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
• Fashions, particularly women’s garments, are grouped into five main price levels– designer– bridge– better–moderate– budget
• Price levels were distinct in the past, but are now blending into one continuum
Fashion Insights
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Designer• This price level is the highest, involving
a small couture segment that provides original, high-priced fashions for the tiny “class” market– Garments are custom-made and offered
at many thousands of dollars– These are prestige fashions created by
name designers who need international recognition for success
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Bridge• Bridge lines are “secondary” lines of
well-known designers– They sell for many hundreds of dollars
• Bridge lines offer the most expensive ready-to-wear apparel produced– Ready-to-wear (RTW) refers to garments
produced in factories according to standard sizes, rather than individually custom-made
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Better• Better garments have high quality but
more reasonable prices• They are – designed by talented experts who are
unnamed on the label– sold in selected specialty and department
stores
• These RTW garments are more accessible to consumers
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Moderate• This category includes medium-priced
merchandise with well-known brand names
• This apparel is widely available and worn by most people– Items are sold through department, chain,
or specialty apparel stores – Retailers sell higher volumes of this level
and have lower margins (profit per item)
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Budget• Budget is the lowest-priced apparel
category– Garments are manufactured inexpensively
in large numbers and mostly made overseas
– Low-priced chain and discount stores carry this apparel
• This category may include downscaled knockoffs, or direct line-for-line duplicates of designs
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Collection Showings• Garments from a designer or apparel
manufacturer shown in a specific seasonal presentation are called a collection– A line is a group of styles and designs
produced and sold as a set of new selections for a given season
• At the top designer levels, spring and fall showings are glitzy runway extravaganzas
continued
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Collection Showings• Most of these showings are held for
publicity and prestige– To cut costs, top design firms stage their
shows at one common site
• Designer RTW collection showings are the most important fashion events– Depending on retail orders, only about half
the designs of each collection are produced
continued
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Collection Showings• The major showings are held twice a
year– Couture collections are shown about three
months ahead of the fashion seasons– Ready-to-wear collections are shown earlier
to allow time to place and fill orders
• The individual showings are spaced so important clients and the press can attend each one
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
• Top fashion designers have specific creative reputations and personal trademarks for which they are known
• These give the products a perceived difference, the idea that items stand out from others usually because of image and quality
• Designers capitalize on name recognition to make a good profit with ready-to-wear lines
Industry Facts
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Capitalizing on Name Recognition• Each designer strives to have his or her
signature, initials, logo, label, or garment type instantly recognized
• A logo is a symbol – representing a person, firm, or organization– seen on clasps of purses or embroidered
onto chest pockets of shirts
• Several ways to promote name recognition are described in the following slides
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Lower-Priced Lines• Designer secondary lines have almost
completely replaced custom-made fashions
• Designer RTW (bridge) garments feature top quality fabrics and construction– They are carefully distributed worldwide so
only a few items appear in the same consumer market
• Some luxury design firms also create lines for discount and chain stores
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
House Boutiques• House boutiques are small retail
shops owned by the designers– They are located in fashionable areas of
cities– They feature RTW designs as well as high-
priced, high-quality accessories
• The merchandise is designed by the designer or a design assistant and manufactured by outside producers
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Licensing• Licensing is a legal arrangement
whereby manufacturers are granted the exclusive right to produce and market goods that bear the famous label of a designer– The designer gets a percentage of
wholesale sales– For manufacturers, using the status symbol
of a designer’s name is very profitable– For retailers, name products sell well
continued
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Licensing• Smart designers take an active role in
assuring the quality of their licensed products
• Some well-known designers produce specially licensed goods for low-priced mass merchants
• Celebrity licensing links the name of a celebrity to products
• Cartoon characters and copyrighted products or logos may also be licensed
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Franchising• Top designers also supplement their
businesses with franchises– Franchising is a contract arrangement in
which the designer grants a retailer the right to use his or her famous name and trademarked goods within a particular area
– In return, the designer receives a set amount of money or royalty payments
continued
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Franchising• Franchising allows store owners to get
their businesses off the ground quickly with instant name recognition– The designer or firm (franchisor) does not
own the franchise or help run the business– The franchisee is the owner (person or
group) of the business
• Franchise stores of designer fashions are often located in exclusive shopping areas
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Sewing Patterns• A few designers sell the patterns of
some creations to commercial pattern companies– Examples: Vogue, McCalls, Simplicity– These designer patterns are reproduced
and featured in pattern catalogs at fabric stores where the patterns are sold
• Skilled home sewers can use the patterns to make their own designer clothes
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
The Designing Process• Most designers in the RTW fashion
industry are not well-known to the general public
• Ready-to-wear designers– work for more moderately-priced
manufacturers– plan their company’s lines almost a year
before the apparel is bought by consumers
• Styles selling well now are modified into fresh interpretations for next season
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Industry Facts• U.S. firms generally make “safe”
decisions with designs that are known to be popular –Most copied designs are “toned down” to
have wider appeal and to meet various price ranges
• Copying designs saves money for companies and dominates the lower-price markets
• Fashion piracy is the stealing of design ideas–The U.S. has no legal protection
against it
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Sources of Inspiration• Forecasting services• Art movements, new stage plays, popular
movies and television shows, and celebrities• Fashion-forward styles noticed “in the
streets”• Foreign and U.S. fashion magazines and
shows• Consumer attitudes and purchasing patterns• Fabric innovations or unusual textiles from
other cultures
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Using Technology in Fashion Design• Traditionally, designers made sketches
of their ideas before creating a pattern–Most companies now use CAD systems– Through global networks, digital images
can be transmitted anywhere for instant reaction
• CAD enhances the creative process and shortens product development time
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
World Fashion Design Centers• Most major cities of the world have
several talented, exclusive fashion designers
• Countries are eager to export their fashions to other countries and host their own exhibits and trade fairs– Designers and apparel companies have
promotional trade offices in major cities
• Retail buyers watch trends before buying merchandise to sell in stores
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Industry Facts• The U.S. has gained worldwide
recognition for fashion creativity– New York City is the U.S. fashion capital– Designer fashion shows are held twice a
year in Manhattan during periods called fashion week
–More than 50 designers spotlight their collections
• Other fashion hubs include Dallas, Atlanta, Miami, Seattle, San Francisco, and Chicago
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
France• The city of Paris is considered the world
fashion leader• Haute couture is the name for its
high-fashion designer industry– Trade buyers, retailers, and pattern
companies must pay a high caution fee to attend French designer showings
• Prêt-à-porter is the name of its RTW industry
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Italy• Italy is known for beautiful fabrics,
sportswear, sophisticated prints, knitwear, and menswear– Its high-fashion design industry is called
alta moda– It is a fashion leader in the design and
manufacture of leather accessories
• Fashion collections are often promoted with fashion fairs showing different categories at different times
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Great Britain• London is Britain’s major fashion center– It is famous for custom-made “Savile Row”
top-quality menswear and elegant women’s apparel for royalty
– Its strengths are high-quality RTW men’s tailored apparel, fine rainwear, and far-out “punk” fashions
• Bond Street is now the creative area
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Other European Fashion Centers• Germany– produces well-made, conservatively styled,
high- to moderately-priced RTW for women and men
• The Scandinavian countries of Denmark, Norway, Sweden, and Finland – are renowned for woolens
• Spain – excels with leather, suede, and beading
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Canada• Canada’s fashions are mostly at the
high-and moderate-price levels– Its fashion industry is centered in Toronto– Besides apparel, especially outerwear and
furs, Canadian designers create decorative household linens
• The Fashion Design Council of Canada promotes their fashion design industry
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Central and South America• Governments of these countries market
their apparel products to the world– Rio de Janeiro, Buenos Aires, Sao Paulo,
Bogota, and other major cities are fashion markets
– Some fashion products involve each country’s national ethnic heritage of crafts
–Many products are made to North American company specifications at lower production costs
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Japan• Japan sends medium- to high-priced
clothing to other countries– Some designers have fashion businesses in
Paris– Other Japanese designers make and sell
their clothing lines all over the world– Tokyo’s semiannual Japan Fashion Week
introduces Japanese designers to buyers, the press, and the public
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
China and Hong Kong• China is a high-volume producer of
textiles and lower-priced apparel items sold throughout the U.S.
• Hong Kong produces its own designs– It offers exotic fabrics, especially beautiful
silks– It is the world’s largest exporter of fashion
apparel– Fashion collections are shown during the
annual Hong Kong Fashion Week
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Taiwan• The country is an important source of
low-priced apparel for America’s mass retailers– It has textile and apparel factories,
especially for making sportswear of manufactured fibers
– Recently, Taiwan upgraded its mass-production quality
• The industry has organized to showcase Taiwanese products to the rest of the world
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
South Korea• Korea has young designers who create
apparel for their country’s fashion-conscious market
• Most designers concentrate on RTW– such as volume-priced knitwear,
menswear, and sportswear
• Most production follows specifications of companies in other countries that are taking advantage of South Korea’s low labor rates
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Other World Locations• Annual Singapore shows feature the
creations of designers from Singapore, Indonesia, Thailand, Malaysia, and the Philippines
• Australia’s fashion industry also has many talented designers
• India has cotton and silk textiles and fashions
• Eastern Europe and Russia produce apparel through contracts with Western design firms
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
Some Influential Fashion Designers• Most designers and their firms are
known for particular specialties• In some cases, well-known names of
designers are maintained for the fashion house after that person has died or retired– Examples: Chanel, Dior, Nina Ricci, and
Anne Klein– New designers are hired to continue their
high-fashion traditions with new creations
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
U.S. Fashion Awards and Associations• The most prestigious U.S. fashion
awards were the Coty Awards in 1940s through the 1970s–Many of today’s designers were named to
the Coty Hall of Fame, the highest fashion honor of the past
• These same awards were continued as the Cutty Sark Awards through the early 1980s, then discontinued
continued
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
U.S. Fashion Awards and Associations• Recently, the Council of Fashion
Designers of America (CFDA) has presented the most important fashion awards in several categories– The highest industry honor today is the
CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award, which is controlled by CFDA’s member designers
• Other awards include VH1 Fashion Awards and MTV awards
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
In Summary• New fashions are produced at
different price levels• The most important collection
showings are held twice a year– Collection showings are very pricey,
but important for publicity
• Designing for RTW starts about a year before the apparel will be sold to consumers
continued
Permission granted to reproduce for educational use only.© Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.
In Summary• Many different inspirations affect
designers of today’s fashions– CAD systems streamline the design
process
• Important fashion centers are Paris, New York, Los Angeles, Milan, London, Tokyo, and other world-class cities
• The Council of Fashion Designers of America presents the most important fashion awards