6 TRIUMPH-PACK TR6 & TR250 · 6TRIUMPH-PACK The Magazine for the TR6 & TR250 Car Club • Volume XXXI Issue 2 • SUMMER 2013 Route 66 • Door Panel Fix • Fuel Injection TR6 &

6-PACKT R I U M P H

The Magazine for the TR6 & TR250 Car Club • Volume XXXI Issue 2 • SUMMER 2013

Route 66 • Door Panel Fix • Fuel Injection

TR6

& TR

250

6-PACK MAgAzine i www.6-Pack.org i SuMMer 2013 3

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On The CoverNothing at all to do with this issue, just a gratuitous photo of a great new 250 to come onto the scene. Congratulations to Alan Atkinson on a wonderful concept and an expertly executed result. One day we hope to read how he did it!.Photo: by Alan Atkinson

6-PACKT R I U M P H

The Magazine for the TR6 & TR250 Car Club • Volume XXXI Issue 2 • SUMMER 2013

Route 66 • Door Panel Fix • Fuel Injection

TR6 &

TR25

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13 6-PACK.02.08.indd 1 13-10-03 9:49 PM

FEATURESMember ProfilesGreg Marsh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8Paul Armstrong, Steve Howitt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9Jeremy Chinn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

TRavelsGetting Some Kicks On Old Route 66 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Tech & RestoFawkes, You Only Live Twice (Part 2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16Velcro Door Panel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

TRansformersFuel Injecting a TR6. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Calendar Car. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

DEPARTMENTSEditor’s Workbench . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Driver’s Seat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Club and Chapter News . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Surrogate Buyer’s Network . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30Chapter List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Gives You a Hand

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22

cONTENTS


In the last issue of 6-PACK Lou-is Mijares wrote about ‘Teaching The NexGen’, which created quite a lot of email and got me thinking. Are we doing enough?

Unfortunately, the answer is... no. Not by a long way.

Faced with the looming crisis of having a disinterested, disconnected generation coming along behind us, it falls on each and every one of us to pro-mote our TRs, and LBCs in general, as ‘cool’ and to create a ‘buzz’ about restoring and keeping these gems running. It’s no easy task. Kids today don’t have the his-toric connection that we did growing up. They’re either too far removed from the ‘motherland’ or there are too many other distractions... try holding a conversation with a teenager these days and you’ll be talking to the top of their head as their thumbs blur away on a Smartphone!

Maybe the way forward is to commu-nicate with them using the technology they love? Send them IMs (Instant Mes-sages) on Facebook or Tweet them “I’m in the garage... need help!” They may just surprise you.

If you don’t have kids in your immedi-ate family, do what Lou did and take your car to a local youth group for a ‘Show & Tell’. If the thought of sticky hands all over your pride and joy scares you, take

a slide show along and maybe a few parts. Have them strip down an old carburetor or any other old parts you have lying around the shop, or have your local car club invite youth groups to your events or meetings.

Let’s all try harder to get the next generations involved with our hob-by. One thing we have in our favor is their thirst for knowledge, they’re like sponges during their formative years. Let them turn a wrench or two with you, take them along to car shows and on drives, maybe to the movies or a cruise night at a local diner... way cool!

As I write this the leaves are starting to fall already (sorry this issue is a little late again – I am catching up though) and the temperatures are dropping here in Canuckia. I won’t put Rosie away until the first salt goes down, which is (hope-fully) a long way off yet and I encourage you all to drive your TRs as often as pos-sible, they love to be driven and they’ll thank you for it!

Lots to read in this edition of 6-PACK and I hope you enjoy it. Don’t forget to write me with your own TR stories. A re-view of the 2013 TRials will be featured in the Fall issue, due out in November.

David Fidler—Editor

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Editor/PublisherDavid J. Fidler2421, Poplar Crescent

Mississauga, ON, L5J 4H2Canada

(905) [email protected]

Assistant EditorIrv Korey

[email protected]

ChairmanGreg Donegan2593 Bethlehem Lane

Hebron, KY 41048 [email protected]

Vice ChairmanMatt Mullin

2518 Handasyde CourtCincinnati, OH 45208


MembershipR Ashford Little II

4240 Wickersham Dr.Atlanta, GA 30327

[email protected]

TreasurerRay Suchta

121 Lexington DriveCanonsburg, PA 15317


HistorianMark Anderson

4400 Douglas Dr.Adrian, MI 49221


RegaliaDavid “Billy Ray” Magella

50 West Charlotte Ave Cincinnati ,OH 45215

[email protected]

Chapter CoordinatorKevin Andrews824 Stage Coach RoadSiler City, NC 27344


WebmasterAlan Atkinson137 Gallows Hill Rd.

Cortland Manor NY [email protected]

Head JudgeJim Holewka

6226 Willowbottom RoadHickory, NC 28602

[email protected]

STAFF & OFFICERS

6-PACKT R I U M P H

TR6

& TR

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Club & Chapter News

6-PACKMEMBERSHIP INFORMATION

6 - PA C K i s a n a t i o n a l o r g a n i z a t i o n dedicated to the enjoyment, preservation, and res-toration of the Triumph TR250 and TR6. Membership includes four (4) issues of the club's member-driven magazine, "6-PACK".

All enthusiasts of Triumph TR6 & TR250s are invited to join. Dues are US$35 - USA, US$40 - Canada/Mexico, US$55 - rest of the world. (US funds, cashier check or pay via our website. Two year memberships are also available. Direct membership enquiries to the Membership Officer: [email protected]

SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION6-PACK Magazine is published quarterly to dis-seminate technical and historical information, club news, and provide 6-PACK members with an opportunity to share their TR experiences.

CHANGE OF ADDRESS should be sent to the Membership Secretary. Please allow 6-8 weeks for address change to become effective. 6-PACK Magazine is not forwarded by the post office. Club member must inform 6-PACK of address change. 6-PACK assumes no liabilty for late or undelivered magazines.

6-PACK ONLINE:www.6-PACK.org

6-PACK sponsors an on-line mailing list for the benefit of 6-PACK members and others with an interest in the Triumph TR6/TR250. To subscribe to this free service visit the 6-PACK web site at www.6-Pack.org.

AT YOUR OWN RISKContent and material is contributed by 6-PACK members and other interested parties. Opinions expressed in articles are solely those of the authors and do not represent the opinions of 6-PACK, its Officers, Editor, Publisher, or members. Technical material presented in this newsletter is for reference only and its use, accuracy, and suitability is not endorsed or recommended by 6-PACK, the editor/publisher, nor by any Officer or member of 6-PACK. Use at your own risk!

LEGALCut-away TR6 Graphic adapted from Road & Track and used by permission. "6-PACK" is the trademark of the Triumph TR6 and TR250 Car Club.

©2013 6-PACK All rights reserved.

Joe Honor 1954-2013

Child’s play

Driver’s Seat

We’ve had some re-ally great driving weath-er so far this summer, I hope you’ve been able to get out there and take advantage of it with your TR. I’ve not done that much, what with all of the home projects that I’ve decided to take on this year, but that’s the way it is sometimes.

For those of you who are wondering who my replacement will be since I announced my intention of stepping down as your Chairman at last year’s TRials in Niagara Falls, I’m won-dering too, since no one has stepped forward to say that they would like to lead the Club into the next era. I will be staying on for the time being, but I won’t be staying at the wheel much lon-ger. I very much want someone to take over who will have some fresh ideas on where we can go and how to get there. I believe that you as members want that too and I’m confident that person is going to step forward. Contact me or one of the other Club officers if you or someone you know is interested, and we will fill you in on the opportunities available as 6-PACK Chairman.

The Club will be spending a few mem-bership dollars making some upgrades

to the website software, to enable integration with our online store & membership portion of the site, but according to our Webmaster, Alan At-kinson, you won’t really see it, just know that it’s there working for you. More good things are to come for the Club web-site, so stay tuned.

One question & re-minder I want to put out there, do you know when

your Club membership expires? If not, I encourage you to find out and keep it current. If you let it lapse, and try to renew via the website, you will find that you cannot renew, you must re-join as a new member. That’s the way the software is designed to work and it’s not something that we can change. It’s much easier to stay ahead of the game and keep your membership up to date. Don’t forget, even if you renew a few weeks early we won’t start your next membership period until the ex-piry date.

With that I’ll say so long ‘til next time... Keep ‘em on the road!

Tally Ho!Greg Donegan6-PACK Chairman

Passing the Torch Welcomes our newest members!New Members as of October 3, 2013

James Clayton Bristol NH

Joe Earnest Atlanta GA

William Graham Toronto Ontario

Robert Richard Winthrop MA

Lance Switzer Cleveland OH

Terry McMahon Madison IN

Tim Skinner Hallsville TX

Roman Hrynewycz Elwood Park IL

Jim Aldridge Romeoville IL

Kim Casper Kansasville WI

Mike Bilyk Oakland MI

Jim Brack Martinsville IN

Dondi Ellis Boonsboro MD

Christopher Gittens Franksville WI

John W Ketchum Terrace Park OH

Jerry Kokosinski Hoffman Estates IL

Steve Yott Silver Lake WI

Doug Jack Pittsford NY

Jeff Cooke Carmel IN

Ken Trottere Greenlawn NY

Charles Vaughan Waterbury CT

Rick Oakley High Springs FL

Steve Parker Visalia CA

Don Wells Sioux City SD

William Hermann Saint Francisville LA

Rodger Mills Fort Worth TX

Mike Murphy Dillon Beach CA

6-PACKJoe was an easy guy to like. After all, how hard is it to like a guy who is al-ways smiling?

Joe was a family man, a wine and coffee aficiona-do, an inspired chef, an ad-venturous traveler, as well as a classic British car en-thusiast. He cared about, and for, his family and cherished his 33 wedding anniversaries with Laurie. Joe passed on his passions to his daughter Dana and son Jonathan.

Joe was really excited when his TR6 project was completed and he brought the car home. He worked on finishing up the interi-or and recovered his Miata seats with the help of Lau-rie. Joe was looking forward to bring-ing the 6 to his first TRials. But soon after Joe brought his TR6 home from Silver Lake Ultimate Triumph in the spring, he became ill.

While undergoing treatment, compli-

cations arose and Joe passed away just a couple of days before TRials.

Joe was a great guy and a great friend, and he enriched the lives of all that knew him. We miss him, and always will. – Irv Korey

Joe listens as his new engine runs for the first time

Hi, my name is Harrison Suchta. Here is a picture of me in my 1972 TR-6. It is my first car and I love it! My grandfa-ther thinks it’s his as does my dad, but it’s mine. It is Saffron and has a few modifications. It is equipped with a

tubular header and free flow exhaust, Good Parts triple Stromberg induction as well as front springs and stainless radiator shroud. My dad and grandfa-ther installed a Ratco throttle linkage a short time ago. Very nice throttle response now. It also has a rear sway bar. As soon as my feet can reach the pedals I’ll be driving. By then I can lose this special seat. It does have a 5-point harness for safety. I love for my dad to take me for rides. We al-ways have the top down and the wind messes up my hair. I like him to go fast, but I don’t think he does. After I learn to read I’ll check the speedom-eter. Sometimes I let my sister go for

a ride. She has a pink electric toy car. It is really little and fun to ride in, but PINK? Yuck. My dad takes me to Brit-ish car events. Last July I went to Brit-ish Car Day at the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix. There were over 500 Brit-ish cars there! Next year’s honored marque is the Mini. That is one of my favorite cars. I’ll keep you posted on my adventures. – Harrison Suchta

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WINDOW DECAL $4.00 Each (includes shipping)

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Contact the Regalia Officer to Order


I bought the car on March 30th, 2007, on a beautiful early spring day. My intention prior to that time was to have a decent driver for the occasional Sunday afternoon drive and I really wasn’t sure what I was going to buy, only that it had to be a convertible. So earlier that spring I looked at a 1968 Mustang, (out of my budget allowance) and later online at a Volvo P1800 in Quebec.

Then, in late March, an ad appeared in the local Shop-per’s Guide for a 1974 TR6. I called the owner and ar-ranged to meet him later that same day on March 29th. After a brief inspection and a short test ride we settled on a price. The next day I went to pick it up and made the short drive home without incident, (apart from ar-riving in my driveway with the speedo cable dragging on the pavement) and got a “Cool Car!” shout from a couple of kids on bikes along the way.

Next up was getting it safety certified. Back then I had only a fundamental grasp of British auto mechanics, so I handed this over to the shop that services our Volvos. That turned out to be not such a great idea, since they wanted to basically rebuild the entire car. Instead I took it over to the garage that services my trucks and had the required repairs and servic-ing done for $500, plus another $500 in parts.

I’d like to say that things got easier from there, but in fact what I had bought I found out later was a car in the “dodgy” price range. The end result of that is that I’ve re-lied heavily on the knowledge and experience of 6-PACK members and have met some great folks, both online and in the flesh. I learned (or re-learned) a lot of skills related to auto repair and maintenance, gained an appreciation for the design, manufacture and history of the TR6, and re-ally enjoy the hobby of ownership. Oh, and the occasional drive doesn’t hurt either.

As a happily married father of two teenagers holding a full-time job in hospitality management and also operating a private business employing 3 people, time is certainly at a premium. I’m looking forward to someday having a little more of it to continue onward with the TR. In the meantime, I’ve got it to where it’s a fair example and fairly reliable and always enjoyable. 6-PACK

Greg Marsh - aka Greg_M Paul Armstrong - aka NBZ

Member Profiles

Member Profiles Steven Howitt

- aka StevenH

I was born in the mid-fifties and I am a neighbor of a well known 6-PACKer, Paul Rego (aka ‘Brosky’), in Massachu-setts. I’ve been married for over 20 years. I owned and operated an excava-tion company in Massachusetts. Pres-ently I am in my second term as a Mas-sachusetts Legislator, proudly serving the 4th Bristol County. I am a member of SAG-AFTRA and have appeared in numerous films and television shows. My hobbies and interests include trav-el, dining and classic cars. Over the years I have owned several British cars:

1962 MGA Mark II Deluxe1962 Morgan plus 41955 MGTF 15001954 MGTF1976 TR6

I currently own a 1974 Pimento Red TR6, with Chest-nut interior, overdrive and hardtop. I bought it in 2008. I also recently purchased a 1980 TR8 in Poseidon (metal-lic) Green with tan plaid interior and only 5,300 original miles! Both the TR6 and TR8 have been used as back-grounds in films.

I have made many repairs and upgraded my TR6 over five years of ownership. Among the things I’ve done are:

Rebuilt the bottom end of the engine and added an aluminum flywheelReplaced the original 4 speed with a 4 speed plus overdriveBosch 55 amp alternatorMonza exhaustNew windshield and topSuperlite wheels and new tiresNew wood dash with matching Moto-lita steering wheel and shift knobRe-built the seats and much more

6-PACK

Faces Behind the Wheel Faces Behind the Wheel

I’m 56 years old and live in Knoxville, TN, with my wife of 19 years. I’m an electrical engineer and work in the medical field with MRI scanners and CT imaging systems. My car interests stem back to 1970 when, at 13, my dad and I replaced the engine in his ‘65 Sunbeam Tiger. Before that I built mini bikes and such from discarded lawn equip-ment. I rode motorcycles before I could drive and get a license. I’ve always been into cars, even when I worked in Dhahran, Saudi Arabia for 7 years in the late ‘80s.

I built a Factory Five Cobra replica between 2004 and 2007 and still own it. I bought my ’72 TR6 in 2011. In addition to my cars, my hobbies include electronics, vintage audio and boats.

My ’72 TR6 is a survivor, and unrestored. Original: paint, engine (even the coil and spark plug wires), transmission and tunnel, radiator shroud, radiator and fan, fuel pump, emission controls, factory brushed aluminum wheel beauty rings, wiper motor, key set, seats, dash, crash pads and dash pad, steering wheel, glass, chrome, bumpers, door cards, rear panels, seat belts and parking ports. The 41-year-old factory soft top is also original and perfect, as are the original boot and tonneau covers. The carbs still have their factory brass ID tags. I am sure that the body, being extensive-ly rust-proofed when new, prevented any rust forming. The car is always stored inside, was never wrecked and never driven in the rain or washed with water.

Service history, ownership and mileage are documented, and I have a Triumph Heritage Certificate on file. A very rare intact factory paper quality sticker, a paper Triumph

dealer recall sticker and the plastic emissions sticker reside under the bonnet. New carpet, clutch and Monza exhaust were recently added. Hoses, and other expendables were replaced through the years as required. I changed the brakes and clutch hydraulics to DOT5 silicon

fluid and lightly buffed the paint to remove oxidation and fine scratches from the car cover. I changed the transmis-sion fluid to Redline MTL and replaced the original car-tridge oil filter with a 90º spin on filter. I replaced the fac-tory original Vandervell thrust washers and verified the engine has the factory original Vandervell bearings, which are in great condition resulting in 60-75 pounds of hot oil pressure above 1,500 rpm. I replaced the 15-year-old tube-type Michelin redlines (4,000 miles) with modern redline radials for safety reasons. 6-PACK

Steven Howitt with Wayne Carini from Chasing Classic Cars TV show


My family’s infatuation with Tri-umphs goes back three generations. My grandfather, Roy Chinn Sr., was heavily involved in auto dealerships for all of his life and his career took him even-tually to a Triumph dealership in Little Rock, AR. Through the dealership, he supported some TR4 sportscar racers and introduced my father to sports car racing. Dad, Roy Chinn Jr., eventually got work at the local sports car race in Stuttgart, AR, the ‘Grand Prairie Grand Prix’. Dad worked as a pit steward at the races and also for the national H Pro-duction champ, Lavell Smith working on Austin-Healey Bugeyes. He even ran a young AJ Foyt around the pits on the back of his Cushman scooter.

When the TR6 hit the market in ‘69 dad wanted one. He eventually bought

a British Racing Green and Biscuit ‘74 with hardtop, Nardi steering wheel and overdrive. Dad and my uncle Lar-ry Hollanger restored that car in the very early eighties and it became a daily driver for many years. I was just starting grade school when he bought it. My sister and I would sit on the ‘par-cel shelf’ behind the seats, strapped in with the seat belts dad had installed for us back there. I fell in love with that car and made dad promise to give me that car when I was 16 and he agreed. A year later, he sold the car for a more reliable daily driver and a bass boat. I was crushed!

By the time I was 13, I had been mowing lawns for quite some time and had saved a fairly good chunk of cash. Dad made a deal with me that

he would match every dollar I saved with one of his own so we could find the right TR6. Our search included over 30 different cars over a year. We even turned down the beautiful pi-mento red ‘72 TR6 now owned by Bill Cravens, which eventually won best early TR6 at the 1995 TRials. While on vacation in the Ozarks the sum-mer I turned 15 (1990), I spotted the

Jeremy Chinn - aka oppositelocksmith

Member Profiles

Faces Behind the Wheel

sues which will have to wait until young daughter and toddler son get further along in school.

In 2012, I introduced the 4th genera-tion of Chinns to the Triumph and now my daughter wants to ride every where in the “TEEE ARRE” – she always asks me to take the long way regardless of our destination. As she rides along side me in the top-down Triumph with her hair whipping in the wind, I know that the love and appreciation for these charismatic little roadsters will contin-ue to live on. 6-PACK

only car in my class! My wife and I dat-

ed in the car and it took us to both our junior and senior proms, graduations from high school and university and away from our wedding, all in the com-fort and excitement of that little green roadster. Working on my TR6 and a few other cars gave me the experiences and skills necessary to push me through a 15 year career in the auto industry where I now work as a plant manager.

In the fall of 2011, after a slum-ber of 5 years, I began resurrecting the car and have now gone through it completely from a mechanical standpoint. I’ve begun a refurbish-ment of the interior and worked hard to remediate a few esthetic is-

unmistakable front end shape of a TR6 sitting under a tattered cover in a barn. Several nail biting days later, we handed over $850 and towed the non-running ‘73 that has been part of my life ever since.

Over the next year with the help of my dad and my uncle Larry, we brought that worn out shell of a car back to life. The finished project was British Racing Green just like dad’s and was completed just in time for me to learn to drive in it. Through the intervening years since that original restoration, I have built a hot motor for the car, added a hard top and Nardi steering wheel, just like dad’s. In the late ’90s, I got bored with the normal car shows and winery club runs and decided to begin autocrossing my car. I managed to take home a lot of tro-phies, but most were because I was the


their TRs at home brought some of their non-Brit iron. Several late model Miatas, a dash of BMW 2002 and Mus-tang, joined in the fun. Those TRs that did come to play included the entire numerical family: TR3s, 4s, 6s, 7s and we had a couple of Spits thrown in as well. Doug Larson (who did a won-derful job putting the tour together), had towel in hand, as we drooled and shared in the beauty of his super-charged 6. And last, but certainly not least, Peter drove his concours, award winning 1957 Aston Martin DB MK III. In fact, Peter and his Aston were on the field of this year’s Amelia Island Concours d’Elegance. His automobile is indeed something to see.

As a reference point, we were now about 2 hours southwest of downtown Chicago; out of the hustle and bustle of the City of Big Shoulders and into the small midwest-ern towns that sur-round the area we call home.

So off we go, eyes open, left hand on the steering wheel and right hand on the camera. (Don’t tell my mommy).

Among the many sights seen along the way, was the Gemini Giant standing tall and proud at the now defunct Launch-ing Pad Drive-Inn in Wilmington. Guess the food wasn’t out of this world?

After driving an hour or so through several small towns, it was time for breakfast and a stop at the Old RT 66 Family Restaurant in Dwight. Once we had stuffed our faces with an over in-

dulgence of eggs, pancakes, corned beef hash, chicken and waffles, and a multi-tude of fried breakfast delicacies, it was time to move on; but not before a photo-op d’jour at the often-pictured Ambler-Becker Texaco station. In prominent pic-ture formation, the station made a great backdrop for our little beauties. Driving out of Dwight, another “service station” shines brightly. A Shell, complete with

TRavelsThe Thrill of the Drive

This past May, 23 cars loaded with more than 36 ISOA ‘Coventry Ir-regulars’, ascended at a starting point on the roads of Joliet IL. and thus be-gan the club’s driving season and an-nual breakfast run. We began in the shadows of Chicagoland Speedway (best known for its NASCAR action), but certainly not as well known as say the Joliet Correctional Facility of Blues Brothers fame. We did have an Elwood amongst us, but no Jake in our rat pack. This year, our LBC’s descended upon the Holy Grail, the “Mother Road” of roads, Route 66. Our tour didn’t encompass the entire 2,448 miles from Chicago to Santa Monica, but thru the sleepy little towns of Elwood (yes, they named a town af-ter him!), Wilmington, Braidwood, Dwight and Pontiac. Although not as well known as Gallup, Kingston, Flag-staff, San Bernardino, whose towns and others were romanticized and im-mortalized in the Bobby Troup song, ours had their own Midwestern charm

and flavor about them. Thinking about that song for a minute, the artists who covered Route 66 are about as diverse as they come. Just to name a few of the over 50 who put their spin on it: Chuck Berry, Bing Crosby and the An-drew Sisters, Nat King Cole, Mel Tome, Brad Paisley, The Rolling Stones, Aero-smith, Them featuring Van Morrison, and who could forget the ever popular

version by Buckwheat Zydeco. That’s some kinda song giving props to the Mother Road.

As we received our map and instruc-tions from Tourmeister Dave Larson, off we went like LBD’s (Little British Ducklings) in a row. So who showed up? Well in addition to the aforemen-tioned LBDs (ok ok, I won’t use that one again), other club members left

Getting Some

Kicks on (old)

Route 66by Denny Stock - aka StockyboD

250 GTO

1957 DB MK III

Ambler-Becker Texaco station

Doug Larson’s Super Dooper Supercharged TR6

Gemini Giant


a mural of a 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO and original pumps advertising Super Shell gasoline, containing the ingredient, lets gasp together... Lead.

As we continued onward through the towns that line RT 66 to our fea-ture stop in Pontiac, I saw an Amtrak P42DC near Braidwood, (home of a Nuclear Power Plant), traveling east-bound with the final destination Chi-cago. I mean, where else can you see a diesel-powered locomotive in the foreground, wind power in the back-ground and TR power in the driver’s seat as well as the side mirror! (We had to shoot several takes in order to make this shot happen. Neither the engineer nor passengers enjoyed the inconve-nience, the author didn’t care). Continuing on, we drove through

Odell and passed by a 1932 Standard Oil service station complete with signs touting the fact they carry Miller Tires. I’ll need to contact Discount Tire and see if they can hook me up with a set.

Mid-morning, we pulled into the town of Pontiac, our featured stop. Pontiac, like many older small towns, has a town square, complete with the origi-nal courthouse. Upon arrival, we were directed to reserved parking spaces

that line the square. But before we parked, each of us were greeted, with a handshake by the mayor of Pontiac, Mayor Bob. Small town Americana, gotta love it! Actually, with a bustling population a hair shy of 12,000, Pontiac is actually a big time stop on Route 66. With four museums and various attrac-tions, there is certainly enough to keep one busy for a couple of days. There are 22 murals painted by various art-ists on the sides of buildings that depict

the rich history of this small town. Af-ter spending well over an hour, it was time to get back on the road to our final destination, Starved Rock State Park, for lunch and libation. As the roads be-gan to twist and turn and the elevation began a similar dance, we got closer as we approached the park entrance. With good temps and blue skies above, we

shared the road with those enjoying the day in their 2-wheeled machines. Upon pulling into the park entrance, it was obvious we wouldn’t be able to park to-gether, as it was quite crowded. After a brief walk to the outdoor deck, we were seated and began to order food and liba-tions, although not necessarily in that order. As our lunch passed beyond our

teeth, a bride and her accompanying maids strolled by. We stood, applaud-ed and made the bride blush a pretty shade of pink. With that, and a back-drop of the panoramic views from the tall sandstone bluffs framing the Illinois River, it was a picture perfect finish to a wonderful day of hangin’ out and driv-ing our TRs. 6-PACK

Amtrak P42DC

Irv Korey – aka “Elwood” – Secretary of Transport for Honest Abe

Here comes da Bride

Mayor Bob, Pontiac IL.

Pontiac-Oakland museum


Tech & Resto

No, I’m not talking about Guy Fawkes! (Although with all due re-spect, I like raising a perfectly pulled pint of John Bull Bitter to the “Guy” every November!) I christened my TR6, Fawkes, after Professor Dumb-ledore’s phoenix, from the Harry Potter books. Why the phoenix ref-erence will become apparent as my story resumes…

That white wall turned out to be a van driven by a couple of teen-agers who decided to make a left turn

new Nissan 370Z. But in the end I real-ized that I enjoyed Triumph cars and people way too much to part company!

So then began the second frame-off restoration after only 18,000 miles since the first!

To put the car back together, I used the best parts of my original TR6 plus some from a couple of donor TR6s. The frame, tub, front fenders, bonnet and doors were off a 1974; the bum-pers, front valance and seats came from a 1969. It was a sad moment to see my original car lifted off my trailer and dumped unceremoniously on the top of a pile of cars destined for the crusher!

During the second restoration, I took notice of the different between a Home Market vs. North American TR6. The body, chassis, engine and transmis-sion are pretty much the same. Aside from the right hand steering and fuel injection, it was the little things that proved interesting.

Once you get used to sitting in the “passenger” seat, it all looks the about the same. The center gauges and plinth controls are in the same ar-rangement. Of course, the speedom-eter, tachometer and wiper/washer controls are reversed. Strangely there are no hazard warning lights. The turn signal and O/D switches are on

directly in front of me. It happened so quick that my reaction time was nil – we collided at 40 mph! Little did my wife know that the next time she would see me I would be in the hos-pital and the TR6 would be totaled! Luckily I survived; the car didn’t. It took me a couple of years to recover from the injuries; even longer to put my TR6 back together. It was a trag-edy to see my beloved TR6 destroyed. However the real tragedy was not hav-

the right and being a 1970 model, the lights switch is on the left. You have no idea how many times I turned my lights on when trying to use my indi-cators! The pedals are in the same or-der, but are angled to the left. For the tech guys: ever wonder about those two odd holes in the top of the pedal box? One is for the accelerator cable; the other is for the clutch pedal exten-sion that operates the master cylinder. The dimmer switch is mounted on the firewall up near the transmission cov-er which takes some effort to operate with my clumsy left foot!

I did find that my steering wheel will now create a blind spot for the fuel gauge and ammeter; the oil pressure and temperature gauges are easier to see. During the original rebuild, I got rid of the ignition key in the plinth – it was just too awkward for me to turn the key and pull the choke simulta-neously. Having the ignition beneath the steering column works for me, but that locking mechanism had to go! Now cold starting the car is easier for me as I can turn the key with my right hand and operate the choke with my left. (after pulling the choke out it can be turned a quarter turn which locks it in-place – Ed)

The windshield wipers park right.Inside the engine compartment,

ing enough insurance to cover the car’s value! While restoring the TR6 I had it insured for the cost of materi-als only. When I finally got the TR6 on the road, I forgot to up the collision/comprehensive coverage to restored value. The TR6 was grossly underin-sured, which caused all kinds of legal problems that took over two years to come to a less than satisfactory solu-tion. Suffice to say their lawyers were more devious than mine.

At this point I was pretty depressed. My cherished TR6 that I spent years meticulously restoring was totaled and the settlement, after paying medi-cal expenses, was way under what I needed to restore the car. There was a moment when I seriously considered getting out of the Triumph hobby and take what little money I did have and put it on a down payment on a brand

aside from all the plumbing that goes with the PI system, you will notice that the brake and clutch pipes travel across the firewall over to the left side where they hookup with the standard pipes. I used Automec copper alloy brake and fuel lines. The brake sys-tem does not have a PDWA or brake warning switch.

You all know how the oil filter can-ister can be difficult to work with. Not so on a RHD model – plenty of working room on that side of the en-gine with steering column missing! (Of course I got rid of the canister because it is still a bother). Also note that the air cleaner sits in front of the radiator and a flexible hose connects it to the air tube. The distributor sits higher due to it resting on top of the metering unit pedestal, resulting in

YOU ONLY LIVE TWICE Part 2by Dave Stauffacher

aka tiDbinbilla

Rear taillight and injection badging

Front indicators/driving lamp with air cleaner in background

Pedal and dimmer switch arrangement

Metering unit/dizzy

Fawkes


slightly longer plug wires. On the outside, the front indicators

are clear/amber: clear are running lights, amber are the turn signals. The front side lamps are not running lights but are indicator repeaters. In the rear tail light assembly the side lenses are amber. The rear badge dis-plays “Injection” and “Overdrive”.

In the boot, the fuel system is a little more complicated. The fuel tank out-let runs into the spare tire well, before exiting into the left rear wheel arch where the fuel pump and filter are mounted. The horror stories one hears about the PI system seem to center around the fuel pump. It was strongly recommended that I swap out the Lu-cas pump and filter which I did for a Bosch unit from a mid ’80s Mercedes Benz sedan. The original Lucas pump was mounted off the left rear wheel arch and filter was mounted on that little tab in the spare tire well. Just to the left of the tank is the Pressure Re-lief Valve that maintains a constant 110 psi pressure in the main fuel line. On

top of the tank are two excess fuel return pipes: one coming from the PRV the other from the metering unit.

For the current restora-tion I decided to change

the paint color to my second favorite color. After much trial and error, the paint shop formulated a custom mix of a deeper shade of Damson.

Restoration was performed under the guidance and assis-tance of Randy Zoller and his staff at Heritage Motorsports of El Cajon, California and fellow members of the Triumph Sports Car Club of San Diego, Kevin Schulte and Frank Conk-lin. Paint and pin striping by Jack Williams, also of El Cajon.

In my experience, the PI system has been easy to work with. Installation was a breeze. The PI system is not as complex at it looks. The only fiddling was during initial setup when I had to set the timing on the metering unit and adjust the air flow on the three throttle bodies. I’ve driven over 18,000 miles and have yet to experience any significant trouble or major readjustment! Once I had to use a blast of compressed air to clear out a clogged injector and another time replace a crimped plastic fuel pipe that I accidentally damaged. Both tasks were easily done by a shade-tree mechanic such as me. There is one downside that became readily apparent when traveling over the Si-erra Nevada mountains on our way to Lake Tahoe for Tri-umphest. There is no altitude adjustment! Special factory equipment is needed to recalibrate the metering unit for al-titude changes! TheTR6 was running so rich it barely made it over the 9000 foot summit. I had to stop every 30 miles and clean off the plugs. Fortunately, while at Triumphest, someone there from the UK told me about a neat little trick

they use to “adjust” the metering unit for altitude. It worked like a champ! Given the type of open freeway or back coun-try road driving that I do, the 150 bhp (mostly due to the cam profile and compression ratio) engine provides more than enough performance. A few comments on RHD driv-ing in America – it’s a heck of a lot of fun! Driving in Eng-land and Australia for years made me well acquainted with maneuvering a RHD car. It’s easier to get into reverse as I have more leverage pulling the shift lever versus pushing it. The most difficult adjustment had been to look LEFT for the rear view mirror. Shooting an instinctive quick glance to my right out into open sky was a little unnerving in tight traffic situations! My quick reaction was to use the door mounted rear view mirror! Shifting with the left hand and looking left for the rear view mirror are instinctive now. The primary and secondary roads in the United States are wide and I can see well enough ahead to safely overtake any vehicles in front of me. Toll booths, ATMs and other various drive-up facilities do present a problem! Of course, there’s great fun in raising a few eye brows whenever I can persuade Shirley into holding her hands high above her head while traveling down the road!

Now that Fawkes has risen, Shirley and I look forward to enjoying the top down driving that makes all the restoration hassles and headaches worthwhile. 6-PACK

TOYOTA TO TRIUMPH 5–Speed Transmission

ConversionsTR-2 through TR-6

Herman van den AkkerP.O. Box 6812, Pine Mountain Club, CA 93222-6812

Phone: (661) 242-1253 • E-mail: [email protected]

TOYOTA TO TRIUMPH 5–Speed Transmission

ConversionsTR-2 through TR-6

Herman van den AkkerHerman van den AkkerP.O. Box 6812, Pine Mountain Club, CA 93222-6812P.O. Box 6812, Pine Mountain Club, CA 93222-6812

Phone: (661) 242-1253 • E-mail: [email protected]: (661) 242-1253 • E-mail: [email protected]

Herman van den AkkerHerman van den Akker

I had the following changes during the original restoration: • “A”typeO/Dtransmissionwasadded • Installedaspinonoilfilterandoilcooler • Addedelectronicignitionwithhigh-capacitycoil • GMalternator-perrecommendationsinDanMaster’sbook.(Iaddedshunttoammeter.) • Alloyvalvecover • WipacQaudopticH4Halogenheadlampswithpilotusing100/80Wbulbs - Man, does that make a difference! • Separaterelaysforhigh/lowbeamsandfuelpumps;upgradedwiring • Spaxshocksonfront,competitionspringsonallfoursandpolybushingswhereverpossible. • Installedleatherseatsandwoolcarpets • Fullyinsulatedinteriorwithaluminiumcoatedwrap.Itreallycutdownonheat and transmission noise. • LeCarrasteeringwheel • Hellahorns • Auxpoweroutletforcellphonecord • Frontairdam • Back-upbonnetrelease(fromISOAarticle) • Factoryhardtop • MohairBiscuitcolouredhood

I decided to make a few improvements the second time around: • IinstalledaGoodPartsfront/reardiscbrakekitwhichwasprettymuchabolt-onoperation. While I like to go fast, I like to brake even quicker! I also added a set of their adjustable trailing arm brackets which work really smooth and easy. • Idecidedafterhavingmyheadsnappedintheaccident(originalseatshadnoheadrest) to install the 1969 seats which I found be surprisingly comfortable. • Anewaluminiumradiatorwiththermostaticallycontrolledelectricfanwasinstalled.The engine normally runs on the cool side but occasionally when stuck in L.A. freeway stop and go traffic the temp gauge would creep up too far. • Iswappedouttheoldfuseboxforanaftermarketflagtypeandusedchairconnectorsto mimic original wiring. • Iwashavingproblemswithdebrisintheoriginalfueltankcloggingupmyfuellinescausing the engine to shut down immediately. I thought I had the problem solved but it happened again on the San Diego freeway during rush hour! Some quick maneuvering got me across 6 lanes of traffic and onto the shoulder! The next day I purchased a brand new tank and installed a fuel pressure gauge in the dash, replacing the rheostat. Yeah, like my dash lights were always too bright! Now, when driving I can easily monitor the fuel pressure. • Installedheaviergaugewiringandrelaysinlightcircuitstoaccommodatehighwattage halogen headlights. And speaking of headlights, besides having the high/low beam bulb, mine has a small bulb called a pilot. Much to my initial annoyance when first living in England, it seems the standard practice for driving in the London’s brightly lit streets is to have these pilot lights on at night, not the low beams. I hate to recall the number of times I cut someone off in traffic by not seeing their low beams in my review mirrors. After a while, driving with the pilot lights on made real sense. • Ihadoriginallyinstalledasupercoolstereoandamplifiersetupbutneverreallyusedit!I ended up enjoying the sweet sounds my engine made when cruising! So this time around – no built in “sounds”.

Goodparts front disc setupGoodparts rear disc setup with caliper for emergency brake

Fuel pump/filter setup in left wheel archPRV (pressure relief valve), fuel tank outlet and two return pipes


by Steve Squillante – aka SquiD)During the relatively short time I’ve been a member of 6-PACK, I’ve seen numerous posts regarding the installation of the interior door panels and how to install them utiliz-ing those pesky trim panel clips. As my own sixteen month restoration drew to a close, the door panels were one of the last items to install before I could say I was complete.

When I started restoring my 1974 TR6, I had all good intentions of stay-ing as original as possible to maintain the integrity and value of the car. My originality intentions changed how-ever when I discovered the frame had holes large enough for me to stick my hand into. I progressed from a mild conservative restoration to a full frame off nut and bolt. Every option and modification known to the Tri-umph world was purchased and in-stalled. My desire to keep it original faded with the realization that once I started modifying the chassis (RATCO) originality was no longer an option. My goals changed but I still wanted to make sure that once complete, my car looked like a stock TR6. Only the as-tute Triumph owner would recognize that my 1974 is a hodgepodge of Tri-umph parts from various donor cars of all years. I like to think that I com-bined the best features from earlier years into my completed restoration.

During the restoration a local uphol-stery shop made up all the new inte-rior parts. I knew that if the door back-ing wasn’t laid out properly, I could have problems lining up the trim pan-el clips. I decided to fabricate the back-ing myself from 1/8” masonite, being very careful to place all of the holes in the correct locations. I provided the

completed backing panels to the upholstery shop. I would have nobody to blame but myself if the trim panel clips did not line up with the doors. I felt comfort-able that when the time came to install them, I could be certain that the clips would be in the correct locations and should snap in without any problems.

The day arrived to install the inte-rior door panels. The rest of the inte-rior was complete and the final touch would be to finish off the doors. I placed the panel clips into the holes on the panel backer board. After lin-ing the clips up to the holes on the door, I started to push each clip into their respective hole. I noticed that I could see the back side of the clips pushing up against the interior side of the vinyl. Fearing a tear in the vinyl, I quickly removed the panel and took a step back. This issue prompted me to think about installing the panels using Velcro. I thought if I could purchase Velcro in wide enough strips, it might provide an easier solution to install-ing the door panels. A trip to the local hardware store revealed that the Vel-cro was available in a number of dif-ferent widths. I decided on widths of two inch and one inch strips, eight foot lengths of each size.

I’ve always been told that the hook (hard) side of Velcro should always be mounted on whatever you decide to mount on it. So with that in mind, I mounted the hook side to the door and the loop (soft) side to the panel. That didn’t work out for some reason and the panel loosened each time the door was closed. So I reversed the Vel-cro, placing the hook side on the door panel and the loop side on the door. The results were much different, the panel stayed in place.

When you purchase Velcro, the strip comes with the hook and loop joined together. This works well for when aligning the door and panel.

Installation StepsMake sure both the door and the inte-rior door panel are clean, dry and free of any contaminants.

Cut the Velcro into the lengths need-ed to secure the panel. (See Photo)

Peel the backer off the loop (soft) side of the Velcro and affix to the door. Be sure to leave the hook side attached during this step. Make sure the Velcro is pressed well into place.

With the backer still on the hook side, dry fit the interior panel to make sure

the Velcro is hidden and not extending beyond the edges of the interior panel.

Once satisfied with the Velcro place-ment, peel the backing tape off of the hook side of the Velcro.

Carefully place the interior panel into position and press into place.

Check the alignment for the door and window handles.

Install the handles and associated hardware.

Project should be complete.To remove the panel, you need to work your finger into the hook and loop and slide your finger along as the hook and loop separates. If you try to pull the panel off without first breaking the tension, the Velcro may come off of either the door or the interior panel.

Both the door handle and window handle pins can be easily removed with the use of a straight pin punch. I used two wrenches (See Photo) to push the panel back far enough to expose the pin. The pin is easily pushed out with the punch. I don’t use the spring on my car, but I’ve removed the pin using the same method with or with-out the spring.

Replacing the pin is made easy by us-ing a ten penny finishing nail with the

Velcro Door Panel

Another method I utilize is to ma-chine the end of a ten penny nail (see photo) leaving a small portion of the center intact. A ten penny finishing nail is the correct diameter of the orig-inal pin. Push the pin into the handle and snap off the nail leaving the pin to do its job. The machining can be done by utilizing a drill or a lathe and a grinder with a cut off wheel. 6-PACK

Tech & Resto

point ground flat. I can’t take credit for this method,

but I can’t remember where I saw it. Hold the pin up to the finishing nail

and use masking tape to hold the pin in place (See Photo)

Place the handle onto the mecha-nism, line up the hole and push the pin into the hole using the nail. Once the pin is in place, break the masking tape with a downward force on the nail.

Trim Clip

Velcro

Inside of door panel

Wrenches

Complete door panel

Taped nail

Machined nail


This is a series of articles combined covering my ten+ years saga of fuel injecting my TR6. It was a bone stock 1976 TR6, in 1982, with just 24,000 miles on it when I bought the car. In its best state of tune, it could only be described as ‘performance chal-lenged’. It also had a few driveability issues; it wouldn’t start shortly after shut down when hot, it ran on when hot, and it cut out in left hand cor-ners. As it aged, it became more and more difficult to pass Maricopa coun-ty emissions tests. Solving all of these issues in one swoop got me motivated to pursue fuel injection. After careful research, I realized that I also needed to control ignition to affect the most improvement. That is when I pur-sued the Ford EDIS – MegaJolt igni-tion solution that a few of the DCTRA members now have. Since getting the ignition to work, I have slowly solved the technical issues for fuel injecting a TR6. In the following article, I will described what I did and why, offer-ing suggestions for improvement.

I will start where I think the thought process should begin for this project, at the back. Fuel injection re-quires copious amounts of high pres-sure fuel. It does not tolerate fuel in-terruptions. Therefore, a baffled tank to prevent fuel sloshing, a fuel sump to supply the pump, and a way to pre-vent debris entering the pump are required. Originally, I tried a gravity feed from the stock tank through a fil-ter to a swirl pot tank. It didn’t work the best. I had both cavitation of the pump and fuel starvation in corners. Now, I have a bespoke aluminum tank that is baffled to prevent fuel sloshing, it has my swirl pot tank grafted onto it, and a fuel strainer sock for the pump inlet. It uses the stock mounts, fuel sending unit, and even the original fuel feed outlet location. A few

Fuel INJeCtING

AtR6important details, there is an access panel that permits me to service the fuel strainer which fits over a pipe ex-tension on the pump inlet, the pump can be replaced without pulling the tank, and the hot aerated return fuel from the engine compartment is di-verted across the tank to the opposite side from the sump. This permits that fuel to return into fuel, cooling it and de-aerating it before it makes it back to the pump. I have this diversion be-

TRansformersRestomods & Non-Stock Upgrades

cause the fuel is returned via the stock outlet location on the left side of the tank (sump side). I had used that fuel line for fuel supply while running my carburetors (I had a tee fitting that went to the stock fuel pump). It is capped off now and I used it as a fuel circuit drain point.

Once the fuel gets to the high pres-sure pump it needs to be filtered before going to the injectors. I ran hard alumi-num lines over to a high pressure filter then lines to the front of the car. The fuel lines go up to the fuel rail, over to the pressure regulator, then around the engine compartment to make a full circuit back to the tank. I used 3/8” AN-6 lines and hardware. This would be about the minimum size for supply and plenty big for the return lines. The one thing to note about aluminum is that it work hardens, you need to keep your bending and flaring of the tub-ing to a minimum. Also, it needs to be securely fastened to hard mounts so it does not vibrate and work harden that way. Work hardening can eventually

lead to fatigue cracking of the tubing. As you can see from the photos, the pump, filter and some lines are in the trunk. I did this to protect the pump and filter as there are very few places to mount these things that are pro-tected from road debris. I designed the placing so I can still have a spare tire in the well. The lines follow the frame rails forward through the “T-shirt” area of the frame. This is less than then ide-al as the lines are in a small area with the exhaust pipes and probably pick up significant heat.

The fuel flows from the supply line into through braided lines to the fuel rail. I used braided lines to have give for engine movement and they inte-grated well with the various AN fit-tings. The fuel rail is a piece of ex-truded aluminum stock with injector holes, mounting holes, pipe thread inlet/outlets and a Schrader valve. The injector holes need to be pre-pared properly as the only seal for the high pressure fuel is the O-rings on the injector. The mounting of the fuel rail should be solid as the rail holds the injectors in place. The bot-tom of the injectors have O-rings to seal for air leaks in the intake mani-fold bungs. You don’t want to have air leaks nor have the injectors and the fuel spray move about as that would adversely affect the fuel air ratio. The Schrader valve permits purging of air from the system and depressuriza-tion of the high pressure fuel circuit for maintenance. The fuel then flows to my adjustable fuel pressure regula-

tor. The regulator makes sure that the fuel pressure for the injector stays at the set pressure above the changing manifold pressure. There is a mani-fold pressure line from my intake plenum to the regulator for this ref-erence pressure. The typical pressure differential is 3 bar (approx.. 45 psi). I did adjust my pressure up to 60 psi for a while to help compensate for my too small injectors. I now have 22#/hr injectors and only need the 3 bar. The fuel regulator dumps the unneeded fuel back to the tank via my return circuit of fuel lines.

There are a few things I would con-sider doing differently. First, there is a good argument to placing the fuel pump in the tank. It keeps it cool. However, pulling the tank out isn’t easy, so perhaps an access panel for the pump and connections on the rear face of the tank is the answer. It would require a different trim panel. Second, rather than running a big fuel circuit of lines up to the front and back again like I did, run the fuel from the pump to the HP filter then to the pressure regulator located in the trunk or on the tank. The unused fuel returns immediately to the tank and you only have one fuel line (supply) going forward to the fuel rail. This would require a manifold pressure line (vacuum line) from the intake manifold back to the pressure regula-tor. This line doesn’t have fuel in it and could be run through the cock-pit safely and be much, much, easier than my dual lines to the front.

Fuel tank, high pressure fuel pump (1) fuel filter (2)

Line to pressure regulator (1) Schrader valve (2) Line from HP filter (3)

Fuel strainer and drain

1

12 3

2

by craig kenyon – aka craigkenyon


ElectricalThe second subject is everyone’s least favorite, electricity. In aircraft and british cars, electricity is the flow of “oddtrons”. Unless well planned, odd-trons do very odd things and you can chase your tail for hours trying to fix things. If you don’t want all of the Lucas Smoke ™ to leak out of your Triumph wiring harness, a separate harness is the answer for your fuel in-jection system. A fuel injection system with ignition draws significant amper-age. For example, fuel pump 10A, in-jector banks 5-10A, wide band Oxygen sensors 5-10A, electronic ignition sys-tem with coil pack 5-10A and fuel com-puter 2A. I installed a bolt-in plug-in 95A alternator from BNR. They make ones to fit both early and late mounts

with no alterations. The best part is that there was an extra output lug. I ran a heavy gauge wire from that lug directly to the connector block on my battery positive lead. From the connec-tor block, I ran another heavy gauge wire to my auxiliary fuse block. This input is fused then goes to the main power relay. The main power

relay is controlled on/off by the origi-nal ignition switch controlled coil lead. This way the system turns on and off with the ignition switch and the igni-tion switch sees little current load.

From the relay, I have distributed the power to all of my various fuel injec-tion components, a power jack and my stereo. I have mounted all this mounted on a removable ground plate mounted on the underside of the fire-wall in the passenger foot well. The ground plate has two heavy ground leads, one connecting to the chassis

into a TR6 can be a challenge. My goal was to make all of this wiring, computers, etc as unobtrusive as pos-sible with the minimum of holes in the body. Additionally, I planned for future maintenance. To achieve this, the ground plane mounting plate is removable with enough wire length to lay it down in the passenger foot well. Also, all of the O2 sensor wiring and gauges are set up with connector blocks to permit ease of removal and diagnosis. Keeping track while every-thing is wired up is a challenge and requires prior planning of where all the wires and associated connectors will go. Most everything has dedicated connectors that are all different from each other to prevent wrong connec-tions. Again, like the fuel lines, you want to keep the wires secured from movement/vibration. I am pretty happy with my wiring as it achieved my goal of being least obtrusive, al-lowed the addition of a charger outlet, and powers up my awesome stereo while having safety and reliability. No oddtrons have appeared...Yet.

Set-upFor a gasoline internal combustion en-gine to be useful, you have to be able to constantly control 3 things, the tim-ing of the spark, the amount of fuel and the amount of air entering the engine. Theoretically, you would like each cylinder to get the same amount of air on each power stroke and have any changes be equal. Many factors af-fect the volume of air; the individual cylinder displacement, the individual combustion chamber volume, the in-take valve opening/timing, the port-ing in the head to the valve, the intake manifold fit and design, the throttle design and the intake design from the throttle plate to the atmosphere. The last three items can be more easily ad-dressed than the others. Since we use the throttle to drive the car, it is prob-ably the biggest item.

Most TR6’s have either 2 or 3 carbu-retors with a single throttle plate in each. Some TR5’s have six (PI cars), though I believe they are ganged into 3 sets of two. Ask John Horten how the PI throttle is set up. In any case,

at the same location as the battery negative cable and the other connect-ing to the engine at the battery nega-tive cable connection. All of the vari-ous components ground to a common ground connector block on this plate. Effective, redundant grounding is the easiest way to prevent queertron be-havior. For safety, I have two switch-es. The first is a manual switch that I can reach while driving that cuts the ground lead from the main power re-lay, shutting the whole system down. The second is a collision fuel pump shut off switch located in the trunk that cuts the ground lead for the fuel pump in the event of an accident.

The fuel injector computer itself is a low amperage control device with quite a few sensor inputs and several outputs. I purchased a partial harness from DIY Autotune to help expedite the process. For outputs, there is a re-lay control for the fuel pump, I used this for both the fuel pump and the Oxygen sensors/computers. Yes, each of the O2 sensors have a small com-puter box, this box controls the sensor and processes the signal. The box can output 2 signals, I use one to drive the fuel injection computer and the other to drive a analog gauge. The signals are completely programmable to match whatever you need. Additionally, the O2 computers permit logging of the air/fuel ratio independent of the fuel injection computer. Why have two O2 sensors? In my case, I have an ex-haust header that collects the front three cylinders and the back three cylinders independent of each other. Therefore, to see the air fuel ratio for all of the engine, I needed a sensor for the front and the back. The other out-puts from the fuel injector computer are the Idle Air Control Valve wiring, the injector banks, and the EDIS SAW signal. The SAW signal was covered in my earlier article about the EDIS ignition system. Essentially, it is the ignition advance control signal.

As you can see, packaging all of this

Fuse block for FI: relays (1) MegaSquirt II computer (2) Serial Cable to connect to laptop (3)

Oxygen sensors Throttle body

1

2

3


ings. The blanking piece has some ef-fect at WOT (wide open throttle) but not much. Additionally, I could use a GM style idle air control scheme. That is a small electrically controlled auxiliary valve in the throttle body that opens and closes by the fuel in-jection computer programing. It is stepped more open when cold and closes down when hot. The amount of air flowing through this IACV (idle air control valve) determines the idle speed. It does have a feedback feature wherein the computer constantly ad-justs this valve to give you the idle speed you programmed in.

My tip in response turned out per-fect. However, I needed to ensure that I could get WOT at full pedal depres-sion. I extended the stock throttle le-ver to pick up the throttle cable that then goes up to the throttle body. The length of the lever determines the amount of cable pull from the gas ped-al up position to fully depressed pedal. I have an adjustable stop on the intake manifold that sets the up position and

we would like the airflow across each throttle plate to be the same. That way, the air/fuel charge is equal between the carbs. That is why we spend so much time “balancing” the carbs. Typi-cally, we do this at idle and hope that it is similar at higher flow rates. Another aspect of throttle plates is tip in/low throttle response. You want enough throttle plate/intake throat area to not impede max flow at max RPM while at the same time have lots of control at tip in for the throttle at very small throttle movements. For a variety of reasons I decided to get away from the stock intake manifold set up, this decision let me go to a single throttle plate to common plenum setup. No more balancing and easier to integrate with the fuel injection computer and idle control design. However, I wanted max flow and therefore wanted a big throttle plate. The compromise was a GM throttle body that had a throttle plate with a blanking piece on one side, effectively only opening on one side of the plate at small throttle open-

the amount of pull is slightly more than the amount of cable it takes to get WOT on the throttle body. As I don’t have any springs in the system other than a small one at the throttle plate and the stock one on the throttle lever. That lever spring determines the gas pedal ‘feel”. I did have to go through several iterations of throttle springs to give the right “feel” to the pedal. When the springing was too light, it was easy to get into the bucking bronco on the gas pedal. Too heavy of a spring would be fatiguing and hard to control at tip in/small throttle openings. I am pretty close right now but the spring is easy to change in the future.

That brings us to intake manifold de-sign. The most optimum place to put fuel into an engine is directly into the cylinder itself. However, that requires very high fuel pressures, high temper-ature injectors and combustion cham-ber/cylinder head design. The next position would be on the back side of the hot intake valve. The closest we can get is to inject into the intake port from an injector positioned as close to the head as possible. That is the high-est flow point we can get to and has the minimum amount of wall wetting to the intake valve. Wall wetting is the fuel that condenses out (when cold) or just hits the wall of the intake runner. As the wet wall gets fuel onto it, it also evaporates fuel, affecting the air fuel ration. Some of this can be compensat-ed in the programming but keeping it to a minimum is best. This is one rea-son why TBI (throttle body injection) wasn’t as effective as single port injec-tion schemes. Another reason is flow rates due to intake runner lengths. In-take runner lengths directly affect the amount of air entering the cylinder. Different lengths will give different charging. This can lead to significant torque/HP gains or losses.

Ideally, we would like the same length for all cylinders, tuned for the expected operation of the engine. Short runners are best suited for high

RPM applications and longer runners for lower RPM applications. Some modern engines actually have two sets to optimize engine operation in different RPM bands. The TR6 engine bay doesn’t lend itself to runner length tuning, nor is the stock intake mani-fold set up very well for balance be-tween cylinders. However, my design gave me 20” of runner length from the bell on each runner to its associated intake valve. This is tuned for opera-tion around 3600 RPM. My intake runners ended being built in mul-tiple pieces because when I mocked it up, it didn’t look like I could ac-cess the manifold bolts with it as one piece. So, I have a set of CNC flanges with O-rings and the associated com-plexity. Examining the pictures you

can see I have good clearance for this design in the engine bay. The plenum and throttle body clear the hood with about ¼” clearance.

The plenum is an extruded aluminum piece that is close to the optimized vol-ume of 2.5 times the capacity of the engine. It is a constant cross section. This isn’t optimum as the flows to the rear most cylinder will be slightly dif-ferent than that at the front cylinder. A tapered plenum would be best but fabricating it would be difficult. I have attempted to compensate for the flow difference by having different fueling tables. One set of tables (and O2 sen-sor) for the front three cylinders and another set for the back three cylin-ders. The plenum needs to have sev-eral air pressure (manifold pressure

or load) connections. One is to the fuel injection computer, one to the fuel pressure regulator, another to the brake booster (while I had one that is) and one for positive crankcase ventila-tion. Additionally, I used the plenum to anchor the fuel rail. This provided a handy and elegant solution.

Last but not least is air filtration. From a flow perspective, you don’t want to bolt the air filter onto the throttle body. You want a long enough pipe to smooth the airflow out before it hits the throttle body but not be too long or too small in diameter to restrict max flow. Secondly, the best air is cool air from outside the engine compartment. This gives the best per-formance and is why many plumb air hoses to the air filter box. I have an air dam that blocks off the right front corner of the engine compartment for my air box. There are holes in the side of the radiator cowling to provide cool fresh air to my air filter. I can’t say if my tubing length is optimum but II got it all to fit in with the minimum of modification to the car.

The stock set up has a variety of is-sues, hot air intake, throttle plate bal-ancing, not optimum runner length, non equal runner length, excessive wall wetting, and a throttle linkage only Rube would be proud of. My set up has eliminated all of these prob-lems. However, if I had to do it again, I would change the profile of the run-ner slightly. This would permit the runners to be one piece and fabricat-

Throttle stop

Intake runners

Manifold pressure lines: Line to MS2 (1), Line to fuel pressure regulator (2)

Air filter

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ed out of mild steel tubing. The cost would be significantly less than my all aluminum manifold. Addition-ally, I could eke out another 1/2’” of runner length too.

ControlTo wrap this up, we need to control both ignition timing and fueling. In my previous article about the EDIS ignition system, the MegaJolt control-ler controlled ignition timing based on three inputs. A crank position sen-sor system that provided crank posi-tion and RPM to the Ford EDIS con-troller. The EDIS controller outputted a RPM signal to the MegaJolt which looked up an ignition advance value based on RPM and intake manifold pressure (load). The MegaJolt output-ted this advance value to the EDIS and the EDIS made the spark plugs fire at the appropriate time. The look up table was a 10 x 10 matrix of advance values. The axes and the advance val-ues are user settable. This MegaJolt function has been taken over by my fuel injection computer with the only difference is the look up table is 12 x 12. The fuel injection computer al-lows for further control of the ignition for specific operating conditions. The first is a cold temperature advance scheme which allows timing changes based on coolant temperature in a 2 x 12 user settable look up table. Most engines run better with some advance when cold. The second is a Manifold Air Temperature retard table. Again, a user settable 2 x 6 table that allows for retarding the timing when the inlet air reaches high temperatures. High inlet air temperatures make an engine prone to knock which can be prevented by retarding the timing. Additionally, with the addition of a knock sensor and processor, the fuel injection computer can pull off timing when it gets a knock input from the knock sensor processor. Uncontrolled knock can quickly destroy an engine so is to be avoided if possible. The last

thing is a RPM limiter, the fuel injec-tion computer has 2 schemes for RPM limiting, a soft limit that pulls timing off based on RPM, and a hard limit which can kill the fuel and ignition at a set RPM. All of these control options are user settable and programmable.

To do all this for the ignition side of the house and to control the fuel side; the controller needs a lot of informa-tion about the state of the engine. There are two temperature sensors, one for the coolant (CLT) and one for the intake manifold air (MAT). There is a throttle position sensor (TPS), an in-take manifold pressure sensor, the two O2 sensors (air/fuel ratio), the RPM signal from the EDIS, and an ambient air pressure sensor for barometric cor-rections. If you had a sequential injec-tion scheme, you would need crank position information. All of this cre-

ates a wasp nest of wires and requires good planning of what and where. My harness goes forward to the throttle body for IACV control/TPS signal and then goes forward to the CLT mounted in the thermostat body in place of the stock manifold coolant return. My in-take manifold is a “dry” manifold and therefore doesn’t require any heating. As the harness comes to the back of the engine, it connects the front three in-jectors to one bank and the next three to the second bank. Then the MAT se-nor wires join followed by main power and ground to go inside the cockpit to the fuel injection controller.

That is all the elements to fuel inject a TR6 except the programming. I am using a MegaSquirt II controller. The good thing with the MS II is it is very versatile. The bad thing is it is very versatile. If there had been another

TR6 with similar engine build and injector sizing, it would have been much, much, easier. I basically start-ed from scratch. If I could have used someone else’s tune, I could have saved many hours of programming and it would have started right up.

The controller basically starts its fuel computations based on a parameters of the engine; number of cylinders, displacement, injector size, number of injector banks, how it should cal-culate the amount of air (I used the combination of manifold pressure

and RPM), and air fuel ratio. It then references a set of tables, a VE table and a AFR table (I use 2 of each, one set for the front set of cylinders and one set for the back). The VE table is a table that gives the actual volumet-ric efficiency of the engine at each RPM and manifold pressure point. It is a 12 x 12 table with user set-able axes. Based on these VE values the computer dials back the computed fuel amount. There is a software pro-gram “Tuner Studio” that helps auto-mate the tuning of the VE table. The AFR table is used in the closed loop system as the AFR target to reach. With the AFR information from the O2 sensors, the computer and the tuning software make adjustments to reach these target values. That is for a fully warmed up engine.

For cold starting there are several schemes that need to be programmed. First is when the computer first turns on, while the engine is being cranked by the starter, immediate light off, then warmup. Most of these are both adjustable for a straight value based on CLT and then a taper based on time. During this time the IACV also needs to be programmed to close down while warming up to control RPM. Then there are both temperature and load adjustments to the idle timing values to further dial in engine operation at idle. After all this, then you move on to acceleration/de-acceleration ad-justments. Both of these are based on a combination of manifold pressure change and TPS change.

So, I now have the ability to precisely control timing and fuel for just about every conceivable operational condi-tion. I can therefore improve drive-ability and tune for more torque/power without reaching destructive knock. I will busy tweaking my tune for years, much like others adjust their ignition timing and carburetors to stay in tune. My tune is never lost and will just get better and better. 6-PACK

Coolant temperature sensor (1)Idle air control valve (2)Throttle position sensor (3)

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30 6-PACK MAgAzine i www.6-Pack.org i SuMMer 2013

6-PACK’s surrogate buyer network allows members interested in pur-chasing a car located away from their home an opportunity for an honest, knowledgeable opinion before investing time or money to personally inspect the car. Surrogate buyers are volunteers and are not responsible for the final decision of the purchaser. The purchaser

using this service assumes all risks and responsibilities for the pur-chase transaction and for the condition of the vehicle before, during, and after the purchase. The following members have volunteered to be surrogate buyers. All members are welcome to add their names to this growing list.

6-PACK Surrogate Buyer’s Network

NorthWestDave Hammond – 1551 Ridge Way Medford OR 97504 H (541) 858-0139 W (541) 776-3327Colin Thom – 12666 14B Ave. Surrey, BC V4A 1J6 (604) 542-2490 [email protected] British Columbia, Washington & Northern Oregon

WestDick Taylor – 7821 Harper Ave., Downey, CA 90241 [email protected] Los Angeles Bruce Waller – 670 Pamlar Ave. San Jose, CA 95128 (408) 298-1457 [email protected] Harris – 1251 El Portal Way Oxnard, CA 93035 [email protected]

MidwestDavid Luecke – 6609 Powner Farm Dr., Cincinnati, OH, 45248 (513) 574-4567 Greater Cincinnati Greg Donegan – 2593 Bethlehem Ln. Hebron, KY 41048 [email protected] Greater Cincinnati Bill Moine - Northwest Ohio [email protected] 60 miles of 44276 or 44805Ken Crowley – 3117 Springcreek Rd, Rockford, IL 61107 H (815) 654-9566 W (815) 965-0300 Northern Illinois and Southern Wisconsin, including Chicago Jeff Slaton – P.O. Box 1144, Murray, KY 42071 (270) 759-9417 Western Kentucky Jerry Zaccardelli – 13908 Woodset Ct, Shelby Township, MI 48315 (586) 781-6781 [email protected] Detroit Metro Mark Anderson – 4400 Douglas Drive, Adrian, MI 49221 (517) 265-4110 [email protected] All of Michigan, Northern Ohio, and Northern IndianaIrv Korey – 760 Barberry Road, Highland Park, IL 60035 (847) 831-2809 C: (847) 922-1504 [email protected] Johnson – 6291 Crooked Creek Dr Mason, OH 45040 [email protected] Roe – 10263 Oak Ridge Drive Zionsville, IN 46077 (317) 270-3365 Central and Southern Indiana

SouthWestGary Fuqua – 131 Monterey Dr. Branson, MO 65616 [email protected] Kansas City KS, St Louis MO, Tulsa OK, Oklahoma City, OK, Fayetteville, Ar and Amarillo/Lubbock, Tx. John Phillips – 5865 E 480 RD, Claremore, OK 74107 (918) 341-8903 [email protected] Northeast quadrant of Oklahoma Steve Cordova – 1506 E. Renee Dr. Phoenix, Arizona, 85024 W: (602) 406-4110 C: (602) 796-2668 Phoenix Metropolitan area (25 miles each way)Bruce Cooper (281) 362-0536 [email protected] Houston Texas area and up to 100 miles away. MountainBud Rolofson - 220 Carr St. Lakewood, Colorado 80226 (303) 941-5304 [email protected] Colorado - please contact for distance

NorthEastDon McGilvery – 93 Newell Road, Yarmouth, Maine 04096 (207) 846-3154 W (207) 767-1866 Southern Maine and southern New Hampshire. Kevin D. Thompson – 31 Stanhope Rd., E. Falmouth, MA 02536 (508) 540-7401 [email protected] Cape Cod and southeastern MA Bruce Schechter – Voorhees, NJ H (856) 753-1557 C (609) 760-8198 [email protected] Labuz – 113 Marnie Street Deerfield, NY 13502 H (315) 732 0167 C (315) 794 5540 [email protected] Rego – 30 Sunset Drive Seekonk, MA 02771 H (508) 326-4854 [email protected] Keller – 4078 NY RT 26, Whitney Point, NY 13862 (607) 692 4543 [email protected] Syracuse, Elmira, Albany, and Middletown, New York Robert Liam Gannon (302) 234-1131 (Evenings only) [email protected] Delaware, Northern Maryland and Southern New Jersey Scotty Boyer – 1812 Van Reed Road, Wyomissing, PA 19610 Eastern and Central Pennsylvania Andrew Mumford – 7 Greenwood Drive, Oil City PA 16301 (814) 676-2375 [email protected] John Cyganowski – (781) 929-9084 [email protected] Covering New England & Eastern Maine; will consider Southern CT and Western VT on a case by case basis

Jim Wendel - 3 Marine Place, Long Branch NJ, 07740 (917) 939-0047 [email protected]

SouthEast Steve Wilson – 9078 Ridge Road, Gulfport, MS 39503 (228) 326-1149 [email protected] North to Hattiesburg, MS; East to Mobile, AL; West to Slidell, LA. R. Ashford Little – 4240 Wickersham Dr. Atlanta, GA 30327 [email protected] Greater Atlanta Greg Lyall – Slidell, LA 70461 H (985) 640-6658 [email protected] Grigsby – Blountsville, AL 35031 H (205) 429-376 [email protected] Henningsen - Greensboro, NC (336) 632-9264 [email protected] Raleigh to Charlotte to Winston-Salem to Greensboro. Basically a 1 ½ hour circle from Greensboro, NCChip Collingwood – 810 St Christophers Rd, Richmond VA 23226 Cell: (804)564-1839 [email protected] 100 mile Richmond radius including DC, VA BeachSteven Kerwick - 12108 Weatherwood Ests Dr. W. , Jacksonville, Fl. 32223 (904) 716-5431 [email protected] South Georgia East, N. Florida East (Jacksonville and surrounding) 95 South to Daytona

Non-Contiguous USMark Bullard – 221 Alala Rd., Kailua, HI 96734 (808) 263-0122 [email protected]

CanadaDavid Tushingham – 819 Firth Court, Newmarket Ontario L3Y 8H7 H (905) 830 9124 C: (416)419 2201 GTA (Greater Toronto Area) and York Region (North of Toronto)David Fidler – 2421 Poplar Crescent, Mississauga, Ontario, L5J 4H2 (647) 290 9751 [email protected] Within 100 miles west of Toronto, including the Niagara peninsula.Martin Burtt - 6727 Farmstead Ridge North Gower, ON, K0A 2T0 613-489-1223 [email protected] Ottawa and Eastern Ontario within 100km Colin Thom – 12666 14B Ave. Surrey, BC V4A 1J6 (604) 542-2490 [email protected] British Columbia, Washington & Northern Oregon

A “Chapter” needs to have at least six current 6-PACK national members. The “Chapter” can only be made up of current 6-PACK members. (Current meaning dues are paid).

The national 6-PACK club does not require, nor will it ask for, funding to become a Chapter. The dues paid to become a 6-PACK national mem-ber are the only dues payable.

The Chapters do not speak for, or act on behalf of the national 6-PACK club in areas such as sponsorship, endorsements, association sup-port or contractual agreements. Any issues relating to this must first go through the 6-PACK Chapter Coordinator and then the Coordinator forwards them to the Chairman for review and voting by the Board if so deemed/merited by the Chairman.

The Chapter “membership” is fully responsible for all their actions at all times and in all situations. The national 6-PACK club will not be

held accountable or liable in any way, shape or form, for any accidents, death, inquiry, property damage or any other nasty things happening when they meet, get together or assemble.

The Chapter needs to appoint a key contact so the Coordinator can communicate. They need to have a cool chapter “name”.

They are required to submit at least one article/report or picture per calendar year, on what their chapter has done, to the Editor of the maga-zine. The person writing the article/report for the magazine will get a free copy of that issue.

The Chapter is to be a point of reference/source for feedback and ideas to improve the National Club experience.

It is expected that a Chapter would be willing to host our National TRials event.

Inter-Chapter meetings and activities are encouraged.

Club ChaptersChapter News

Guidelines for Chapters

From Kevin...Hello 6-PACK Chapters. Summer is all but over here in the south. Trials will be over by the time you read this. I wasn’t able to go this year because, as some of you know, we have recently purchased a house and will be moving. Final painting is being done and we hope to be settled in by early fall. It’s a big change for us, but it is well worth it. My ad-dress will change as well as my e-mail. I will have the revised ad-dress once things get in order.

All Chapters, be sure to send in any pictures or articles on your events. We could sure use them. If there is any change to your Chapter information or contact person please forward it to me so I can get that updated.

And be sure to check out the fo-rums. A lot of hard work has been put into the forums for us all to enjoy and get useful information. So until the next time,

Keep’m straightKevin Andrews6-PACK Chapter Coordinator

6-PACK recognizes the following Triumph and all-marque clubs as official chapters. You are encouraged to join a chapter near you. If your area is not represented by an official 6-PACK chapter, or you would like to form a new chapter, contact the 6-PACK Chapter Coordinator.

USA

CALIFORNIATriumph Travelers Sportscar ClubSunnyvale, Ca.Jim [email protected]

GEORGIAGeorgia Triumph Assc.Ashford LittlePO Box 4198Cumming, GA. [email protected]

ILLINOISIllinois Sport Owners AssociationJeff Rust6236 Costwold LaneCherry Valley, IL [email protected]

IndIanaIndiana Triumph Carsnick Gray [email protected]

LOUISIANNA/MISSISSIPPIBayou ChapterSteve Wilson9078 Ridge RoadGulfport, MS. [email protected]

MARYLANDTriumphs Around The Chesapeake,Ltd.(TRAC)Gary Klein8153 Quarterfield Farms Rd.Severn, MD [email protected]

MASSACHUSETTSCape Cod British Car ClubKevin D. [email protected]

New England TriumphsBob Totten47 Brockton Ave.Arlington, MA. [email protected]

MICHIGANGroup TR6Mark Anderson4400 Douglas Dr.Adrian, MI [email protected]

The Triumph LodgeMark Uhlig2676 Ashburton CourtOakland Township, MI [email protected]

NEW JERSEY Garden State 6-PACKStuart Honick1714 Dianne CourtLinwood, NJ, [email protected]

NEW YORKChapTR6Ric Keller4078 NY RT 26Whitney Point, N.Y. [email protected]

NORTH CAROLINATR Club of CarolinasSiler City, NCKevin [email protected]

OHIOBuckeye TriumphsCentral OhioMurry Mercier6721 Marketwood St.Worthington, OH [email protected]

North Coast Triumph Assc.Bob Palmer7115 Ridge Rd.Parma, OH [email protected]

Tri State TriumphsTodd Bermudez6518 Ambar Ave.Cincinnati, OH [email protected]

OKLAHOMAGreen Country TriumphsJohn P. Phillips5865 E. 480 RDClaremore, OK [email protected]

PENNSYLVANIATriumphs of ArmaghJohn SwaugerThe Roadster Factory

TENNESSEEEast Tennesee 6-PACKTim RamseyPO Box 24081 Knoxville, TN [email protected]

TEXASHill Country Triumph Club Wiley Christal4 Misty WoodsRound Rock, TX [email protected]

Texas Triumph RegisterJeff HarrisP.O. Box 40847Houston, Texas [email protected]

VIRGINIACapital Triumph Register Richard Smalling34 Lipscomb Ct.Sterling, VA. [email protected]

Richmond Triumph Register Chip Collingwood3314 Stuart AveRichmond, VA. [email protected]

Tidewater Triumph Register Dale Morgan4105 Terry DrChesapeake, VA. [email protected]

CANADA

ONTARIO/QUEBEC401-PACKDavid Tushingham819 Firth CourtNew Market, ON, L3Y [email protected]

ALBERTAThe Wildrose ChapterDave More32 Scanlon P1.NWCalgary, AB T3L [email protected]


Calendar Car

To have your car considered, please send your best photo to: [email protected]. Photos must be high quality and a minumum size of 2048 x 1536 pixels

Model: tR250Year: 1968Colour: Wedgewood BlueCommission: CD6000lOwner: Alan Atkinson - since 2009 (completed 2013)location: New YorkPhotos: by owner

This 250 started out in 2009 as a very sorry example of the species. It was originally intended to have a restoration and an engine swap for something with a bit more oomph. Somewhere along the way things went a little over the top. It has had a full restoration and a number of upgrades. These include an LS2 engine and T56 transmission mated to a custom tubular spaceframe, using Corvette C5 running gear. Designed as an updated tribute to the Shell Rally TR4s, it was completed in June 2013 and was...

...first seen at the 2013 TRials in Michigan.

Documents

6 TRIUMPH-PACK TR6 & TR250 · 6TRIUMPH-PACK The Magazine for the TR6 & TR250 Car Club • Volume XXXI Issue 2 • SUMMER 2013 Route 66 • Door Panel Fix • Fuel Injection TR6 &