156 | 5280.com | april 2011

Third-generation Colorado native Brendon Doyle grew up helping his mom prepare family dinners, but it was the tough, yet nurturing Rachel Woolcott, owner of now-closed Aix Restaurant, whom he describes as the mother of his culi-nary career. Doyle later developed his love of Italian-inspired dishes during his time at Campo de Fiori, where he began as a line cook but was quickly promoted to chef. Hoping to “explore food in a different way,” Doyle began cooking without meat. Now executive chef at the vegetarian restaurant City, O’ City, Doyle’s favorite quote, from New York chef Amanda Cohen is fitting: “Anyone can cook a hamburger, but leave the vegetables to the professionals.” —Sarah rumple

photography by laurie Smith

Food Revolution »Doyle describes himself as “alt” and enjoys the local alternative art scene. This graphic piece, titled Think Revolt Repeat, evokes in him a sense of rebellion. “Being the chef at city, o’ city is like being part of a vegetarian revolution.”

In a PickleIf it can be pickled, Doyle will do it. Among his homemade condiments is a giant jar of pickled-to-perfection colorado cucumbers. His most recent adventure? “Pickled whole baby rainbow carrots.”

Colorado NativeDoyle is Denver through and through, and a large, artsy print of the city’s neighborhoods hangs above his home bar. Even the Denver-area native, however, hasn’t heard of every ’hood portrayed in this piece of art.

Brendon DoyleChef, City, O’ City

Quick Tip“Don’t mess with the

food...let it cook!”

Cheers »The long hours spent

in the city, o’ city kitchen inspired Doyle

to create a space at home for relaxation.

Among the impressive liquor collection, his

well-stocked bar often houses seasonal items

such as citrus fruits and cherries. His favorite

drink of the moment: the blood orange

old fashioned.

Meatless Loaf with a Coffee and Left Hand Milk Stout Gravy

(yields 1 loaf)

10 cloves garlic1 shallot1 pound mixed mushrooms, roasted3 cups cooked quinoa (black or white)1 cup olive oil2 cups all-purpose or rice flourSalt and pepper

Glaze:½ cup ketchup2 tablespoons

chile and garlic sauce

Preheat oven to 375°. In a food processor, pulse the garlic and shallot until chopped. Add mushrooms and process until ground. Add quinoa and process with mixture. Slowly add oil to loosen. When mixture is blended, pour into a mixing bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. With a rubber spatula, fold in flour until mixture is cohesive and not sticky to the touch.

coat a loaf pan with nonstick spray. Put the mixture in the loaf pan. Press and level the top with the spatula. coat the top with the ketchup glaze. Bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour. Let rest for 10 minutes before cutting.

For gravy:1 yellow onion, chopped1 sprig fresh thyme2 tablespoons flour1 bottle Left Hand Milk Stout6 ounces brewed coffee3 ounces vegetable stockSalt and pepper

Sauté the onion in olive oil. When slightly caramelized, add the thyme. Add salt and pepper. Add the flour and stir with a wooden spoon, creating a roux. Deglaze with the milk stout and stir with a whisk to incorporate the roux. When the beer has reduced slightly, add coffee and stock. Simmer to desired consistency.

Dining In My Kitchen

APR11_Reviews.indd 156 3/9/11 1:51 PM