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Syllabus for the trade of CUTTING & SEWING (SEMESTER PATTERN) UNDER CRAFTSMEN TRAINING SCHEME Designed in 2013 By Government. of India CENTRAL STAFF TRAINING AND RESEARCH INSTITUTE Directorate General of Employment Training Ministry of Labour & Employment EN 81, SECTOR V, SALT LAKE CITY, Kolkata 700091

502CUTTING_SEWING.156170608

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Page 1: 502CUTTING_SEWING.156170608

Syllabus for the trade

of

CUTTING & SEWING

(SEMESTER PATTERN)

UNDER

CRAFTSMEN TRAINING SCHEME

Designed in 2013

By

Government. of India

CENTRAL STAFF TRAINING AND RESEARCH INSTITUTE

Directorate General of Employment Training

Ministry of Labour & Employment

EN – 81, SECTOR – V, SALT LAKE CITY,

Kolkata – 700091

Page 2: 502CUTTING_SEWING.156170608

List of members of Trade Committee meeting for the trade of Cutting & Sewing held at

National Vocational Training Institute for Women,Noida Dated 16/12/2011.

Sl .

No.

Name of the member Address

1. Ms. Upma Bhatia

Chair person

Jt. Director of Training/Principal

National Vocational Training Institute for

Women, D-1, Sector – 1, Noida – 201301

2. Mr. Rajender Kumar Jt. Director of Training

Director General of Employment & Training,

Sharam Shakti Bhavan,

New Delhi

3. Ms Tulika Kumar Proprietor, Matt Global, A-33, Sector – 58, Noida

0120-4262350

4. Ms Ritu Lal Fashion Designer , Free Launcer

5. Mr ASEEM KUMAR M.D., KAURUB EXPORTS LTD.

6. Ms Krishi Sareen HOD,Footware Design & Development Institute,

Sector 24, Noida

7. Ms Laxmi Rohella Merchandiser, Flying Fashions, E-46/3,

Okhla Industrial Area, Phase II, New Delhi.

8. Mr Shiv Kumar Software consultant, Optitex India Limited,

NewDelhi

9. Ms Neeru Software Trainer, Optitex India Limited,

NewDelhi

10. Ms Anju Bhatia Viva Jeans, 39, M S Market, CP, New Delhi

11. Mr Amar Pundir Manager HR, M/S Creative Clothes, A – 1,

Sector – 59,Noida

12. Ms Tanushree Mitra Project Manager, M/S Creative Clothes, A – 1,

Sector – 59,Noida

13. Ms Gloria Mary Rose Training Officer, NVTI, Noida

14. Ms Abha Rastogi Training Officer, NVTI, Noida

15. Mr S S Meena Training Officer, NVTI, Noida

16. Ms Sonu Ghiya Training Officer, NVTI, Noida

17. Ms Anju Training Officer, RVTI, Jaipur

18. Ms Bhagya Shree Training Officer, RVTI, Panipat

19. Ms Pragna .H.Ravat Training Officer, RVTI, Calcutta

Page 3: 502CUTTING_SEWING.156170608

List of members attended the Workshop to finalize the syllabi of existing CTS into

Semester Pattern held from 6th to 10th May’2013 at CSTARI, Kolkata.

Sl. No. Name & Designation Organisation Remarks

1. R.N. Bandyopadhyaya, Director CSTARI, Kolkata-91 Chairman

2. K. L. Kuli, Joint Director of Training CSTARI, Kolkata-91 Member

3. K. Srinivasa Rao,

Joint Director of Training

CSTARI, Kolkata-91 Member

4. L.K. Muhkerjee,

Deputy Director of Training

CSTARI, Kolkata-91 Member

5. Ashoke Rarhi,

Deputy Director of Training

ATI-EPI, Dehradun

Member

6. N. Nath,

Assistant Director of Training

CSTARI, Kolkata-91 Member

7. S. Srinivasu,

Assistant Director of Training

ATI-EPI, Hyderabad-13 Member

8. Sharanappa,

Assistant Director of Training

ATI-EPI, Hyderabad-13 Member

9. Ramakrishne Gowda,

Assistant Director of Training

FTI, Bangalore Member

10. Goutam Das Modak,

Assistant Director of Trg./Principal

RVTI, Kolkata-91 Member

11. Venketesh. Ch. , Principal Govt. ITI, Dollygunj,

Andaman & Nicobar Island

Member

12. A.K. Ghate, Training Officer ATI, Mumbai Member

13. V.B. Zumbre, Training Officer ATI, Mumbai Member

14. P.M. Radhakrishna pillai,

Training Officer

CTI, Chennai-32 Member

15. A.Jayaraman, Training officer CTI Chennai-32, Member

16. S. Bandyopadhyay, Training Officer ATI, Kanpur Member

17. Suriya Kumari .K , Training Officer RVTI, Kolkata-91 Member

18. R.K. Bhattacharyya, Training Officer RVTI, Trivandrum Member

19. Vijay Kumar, Training Officer ATI, Ludhiana Member

20. Anil Kumar, Training Officer ATI, Ludhiana Member

21. Sunil M.K. Training Officer ATI, Kolkata Member

22. Devender, Training Officer ATI, Kolkata Member

23. R. N. Manna, Training Officer CSTARI, Kolkata-91 Member

24. Mrs. S. Das, Training Officer CSTARI, Kolkata-91 Member

25. Jyoti Balwani, Training Officer RVTI, Kolkata-91 Member

26. Pragna H. Ravat, Training Officer RVTI, Kolkata-91 Member

27. Sarbojit Neogi, Vocational Instructor RVTI, Kolkata-91 Member

28. Nilotpal Saha, Vocational Instructor I.T.I., Berhampore,

Murshidabad, (W.B.)

Member

29. Vijay Kumar, Data Entry Operator RVTI, Kolkata-91 Member

Page 4: 502CUTTING_SEWING.156170608

GENERAL INFORMATION

1. Name of the Trade : – Cutting & Sewing

2.NCO Code No:-

3.Duration :- One year (2 Semesters)

4. Power Norms :- 04 kW

5. Space Norms :- 56 Sq Mtr.

6.Entry Qualification :- Passed 8th class examination

7.Unit Size(No of Students) :- 16 Trainees

8. Instructor’s/Trainer’s

Qualification : - (i) NTC/NAC Three years Experience Cutting Sewing / Dress making

OR .

(ii) Diploma in Dress Making / Fashion

Technology with two years Experience

OR (iii) Degree in Fashion Technology with one year

Experience.

9. Desirable Qualification :- Preference will be given to a candidate with Craft Instructor Certificate (CIC) in Cutting & Sewing / Dress Making trade.

Note: At least one Instructor must have Dergree/Diploma in Relevant Field

Page 5: 502CUTTING_SEWING.156170608

SYLLABUS FOR THE TRADE OF CUTTING & SEWING UNDER C.T.S

DURATION: six month

First Semester

Semester Code:CUS : SEM I

(Common for Cutting & Sewing and Dress Making)

Week No. Trade Practical Trade Theory 1. Familiarization with the Institute.

Knowledge of General Safety,

Occupational health and hygiene.

Introduction to the Trade

Importance

Job prospects

Safety Precautions during Working

First Aid 2. Familiarization & handling the tools

Practice of Hand Stitches & Making samples of them

Trade related Aids & Tools

Measuring Tools

Drafting Tools

Marking Tools

Cutting Tools

Sewing Tools

Finishing Tools Hand Stitches

Types

Application 3. Do Eight Head Theory

Joints & Muscles Types of Figure Technical Terms related to subject

4. Practice on Industrial single Needle lock Stitch Sewing Machine

Sitting Posture – Eye, Hand & Foot coordination.

Speed Control

Practice on paper

Threading of machine

Lock Stitch Sewing Machine

History

Types

Parts

Maintenance

5. Running on o Straight lines o Square o Zig Zag lines o Circle o Semi Circle o Spiral

Stitch Formation

Trouble Shooting

6. Practice of taking individual measurements

Measurement

Importance

Page 6: 502CUTTING_SEWING.156170608

Practice of taking measurements from garment

Measuring Techniques

Precautions

Measurement Charts Hand Needles

Types & Their Use 7. Practice of making Seams

Plain Seam

Self- enclosed seams

Top stitched seams

Corded seam

Princess seam

Sewing Machine Needles

Parts of the Needle

Point Types

Machine Needle size Chart Threads

Types

Count

Thread Fabric selection Seams

Classification

Use

Precautions

8. - Do - Fabric Fundamentals Fibers

Classification

Characteristics

Identification 9. Practice of making Button holes by

Hand Practice of fixing fasteners as Buttons, Hooks, Eyes, Press Studs

Yarn

Types

Twist

Count Button Holes

Types

Size

Placement of Button & Button holes

10. Making samples of Smocking with

Honey comb stitch

Cable Stitch

Wave Stitch

China Smocking

Smocking

Types

Use

11. Practice of making weave samples Prepare samples of Darts

Fabric Structure Woven Fabric

Weave Knitted Fabric

Knit construction

Page 7: 502CUTTING_SEWING.156170608

Other fabric

Felt

Fuse

Net

Braid

Pile Darts

Necessity

Type

Precautions during stitching 12. Making Samples of Pleats Pleats

Necessity

Type

Use Fabric finishes

Types

Purposes 13. Collect Sample Swatches

Practice of corner making Edge Finishing by facing, binding, lace, Frill, Hemming & piping.

Fabric Designs

Plaids

Strips

Diagonals

Large prints

Small Prints

Border Prints

One Way design

Short pile

Deep Pile

Napped Fabrics available in the market Under lying Fabrics Type of Corner

Self turned

With additional strip 14. Prepare samples of Tucks

Collection of Trimmings

Fabric Terminology

Selvedge,

Grains

Bias

Identification of right & wrong side of Fabric

Straightening Trimmings

Type

Use

Page 8: 502CUTTING_SEWING.156170608

Making Samples of Frills Making Samples of Necklines

Tucks

Type

Use Ruffles/Frills

Type o Straight o Circular

Uses Necklines

15. Casing with Drawstring Casing with elastic Casing with Heading Inside Applied Casing Outside Applied Casing Making samples with Facings

Casing

Introduction

Use Facings

Bias Facing

Combination Shaped Facing

Outside Facings

Self Facing

Shaped Facing 16. Threading & practice of running Over

lock machine Making samples of

Faced Hem

Edge Stitched Hem

Double Stitched Hem

Band Hem

Ease in a Hem

Mitered Hem

Over Lock Machine

Introduction

Parts

Safety during working Hems

Type

Use

17. Samples of making samples of Plackets

Faced Placket

Continuous Placket

One Piece Placket

Two Piece Placket

Two piece Placket with pleat

Zippered Placket Lapped Fly Front Open End Invisible Visible

Zippers

Parts of the Zipper

Types

Uses Plackets

Type

Use

18. Samples of making different Pockets Pockets

Patch

Page 9: 502CUTTING_SEWING.156170608

Inseam

Cut/slash

Design variation in pockets 19. Samples of making Collars Collars

Classification

Collar terms 20. Samples of Sleeves with & without

cuff Sleeves

Classification of sleeve

Sleeve length variation

Sleeve Terminology

Bottom finishing by Cuff 21. Project – 1

Prepare any Four utility article using the skills learned above as Hand kerchiefs, Pillow Covers, Baby Set, Cushion Covers, Wall Hangings, Apron, Jewelry case

etc.

22. 23.

24. Employability Skill

25. Industrial Training or Project work preferably in cross sectional trade.

26. Examination

Page 10: 502CUTTING_SEWING.156170608

SYLLABUS FOR THE TRADE OF CUTTING & SEWING UNDER C.T.S

DURATION: six month

Second Semester

Semester Code:CUS : SEM II

Week No. Trade Practical Trade Theory 1. Revision of work done in

Semester I Introduction to the Trade Job Opportunities

2. Pattern Making & Stitching of Jhabla Pattern Making & Stitching of Petticoats

Human Figures

Joints & Muscles and their effect on garment

Male & Female Figures

Normal & Abnormal Figures

Identify your Figure (Personal height related to total height of human figure)

Drafting of Jhabla Drafting of Petticoat

Four Panel

Six Panel

Smart Fitting 3. Pattern Making & Stitching of

Simple Pajama and Pant Cut Pajama

Trial Room

Necessity

Specification Sketching & Drafting

Simple Pajama

Pant Cut Pajama 4. Pattern Making & Stitching of

Aligarh Pajama and Churidar Pajama

Pressing

Tools

Methods

Importance Sketching , Drafting, Layout & Estimate -

Aligarh Pajama

Churidar Pajama 5. Pattern Making, Cutting ,

Stitching & Finishing of Sun suit and Yoke Frock

Laundry Sketching & Drafting of Children Garments

Romper

Sun Suit

Jump Suit

Yoke Frock 6. Pattern Making & Stitching of Sketching & Drafting of Frock

Page 11: 502CUTTING_SEWING.156170608

Frock Methods of handling different fabrics

7. Pattern Making & Stitching of Night Suit

Sketching & Drafting of Boys Night Suit

8. Pattern Making, Cutting & Stitching of Top

Methods of removing stains from different fabrics Sketching &Drafting of Girls Top

9. Pattern Making, Cutting & Stitching of Skirt

Technical Terms related to subject Sketching &Drafting of Skirt

10. Pattern Making, Cutting & Stitching of Kurta

Sketching &Drafting of Gents Kurta

11. Pattern Making, Cutting & Stitching of Kali dar Kurta

Sketching &Drafting of Kalidar Kurta

12. Pattern Making, Cutting & Stitching of Blouse

Sketching &Drafting of Plain Blouse

13. Pattern Making, Cutting & Stitching of Choli cut Blouse

Sketching &Drafting of Choli cut Blouse

14. Pattern Making, Cutting & Stitching of Nighty

Shrinkage of Fabric Sketching & Drafting of Nighty

15. Pattern Making, Cutting & Stitching of Ladies Shirt

Sketching &Drafting of Ladies Shirt

16. Pattern Making, Cutting & Stitching of Salwar

Sketching &Drafting of Salwar

Plain Salwar

Belted Salwar

Patiala Salwar 17. Pattern Making, Cutting &

Stitching of Gents Shirt Sketching &Drafting of Gents Shirt Balance of garments according to structure of Human body & its importance

18.

19. Pattern Making, Cutting & Stitching of Knicker

Sketching &Drafting of Knicker

20. Pattern Making, Cutting & Stitching Of Trousers

Sketching &Drafting of Trousers Defects & remedies in the Trousers

21. 22. Checking of garments in

respects of –

Measurements

Stitching

Stains

Defects

Inspection

Definition, need & planning

Types of Inspection

Stages of Inspection

Role of Inspector

23. Check & Correct Pattern Practice of making plans for

Common Defects in the Garments Estimation of fabric for different widths for different garments

Page 12: 502CUTTING_SEWING.156170608

different garments. 24.

Employability Skill

25. Industrial Training or Project work preferably in cross sectional trade.

26. Examination

Note: Trainees will maintain a record of Layouts & estimation of

Fabric for the above garments.

Page 13: 502CUTTING_SEWING.156170608

TRADE: CUTTING & SEWING

LIST OF TOOLS & EQUIPMENT

A. TRAINEES TOOL KIT FOR 16 TRAINEES + 1

Sl No.

Name of the Article Quantity (Number)

1. Scissors 25 cm 17 Nos 2. Pinking Shears 05 Nos 3. Tailors Square – Plastic 17 Nos 4. Leg Shaper – Plastic 17 Nos 5. Measuring Tape 150 cm 17 Nos 6. Seam Ripper 17 Nos 7. Thimble 17 Nos 8. Tailor’s Card Scale Triangular 17 Nos 9. French Curve Set of three 17 set 10. Garment Hangers 17 Nos 11. Screw Driver Set 04 set 12. Table Sharpener 04 Nos 13. Pressing Table 05 Nos 14. Blanket for padding of Pressing Table 05 Nos 15. Rubber mat (Size as per requirement) 05 Nos 16. Sprayer 05 Nos 17. Waste Bin Big / Small 10 Nos 18. Pattern Punch 04 Nos 19. Pattern Notcher 04 Nos 20. Pattern Hanging Stand 04 Nos 21. Water Tub 60 cm dia 01 No 22. Stand for hanging dresses 05 Nos 23. Trial room with 3 side mirrors of size 150 cm X 60 cm each with

arrangements of hanging Dresses 01 No

24. Computer System (latest Configuration) with Software & UPS 05 set 25. Electric Automatic steam press 05 Nos 26. Sewing Machine – Single Needle Lock stitch Industrial model 16 Nos 27. Over Lock Machine 3 Thread 01 No 28. Zig Zag Multi Purpose Machine 01 No 29. Machine attachments As per

requirement 30. Chairs with low back rest or stools for the machines 16 Nos 31. Drafting Table 8 Nos 32. Display Board Covered with glass or Acrylic Sheet 120 X 90 cm 02 Nos 33. Instructor Table 01 No 34. Instructor Chair 02 Nos 35. Steel Almirah 195 X 90 X 60 cm 02 Nos

Page 14: 502CUTTING_SEWING.156170608

36. Pigeon hole Almirah 10 lockers & separate locking arrangements for trainees

02 Nos

37. Locks for above pigeon hole 16 Nos 38. Wall Clock 02 Nos 39. Calculator Desk Type 01 No 40. White Board with accessories (size as per requirement) 01 No 41. Dummy Lady (different size) 02 Nos

B. Theory Room

Sl.

No.

Name of the Tools/Equipment Quantity

01 Single desks for trainees with arrangements of keeping Books

etc.

16 Nos

02 Revolving Chairs without arms 16 Nos

03 Faculty Table & Chair set 01 No

04 Computer set with UPS & multimedia projector 01 No

05 Audio address system 01 No

06 White Magnetic Board with Felt board & accessories 01 No

07 Display Board 02 Nos

08 Storage Almirah 01 No

09 Book Shelf 01 No

10 A/C unit split type 2 TR capacity with Stabilizer As per

requirement

Note:

The quantity of hand Tools may be suitably increased as per the number of

supernumories admitted in a unit.

One number each of item no. 4 to 9 in respect of trainees actually completing the

course of one year (both the semesters) duration may be treated as consumables.

Note:

1. Due to the rapid changes in the technologies frequent Modernization of

equipments and technologies is necessary.

2. Training Programmes for Staff should be organized in the new fields added

in the curriculum for the proper implementation of the same.

3. Experts from the Industry may be called for special lectures and demo’s as

and when required.