TOURIST CLASSIC
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WANT TO START YOUR OWN USE-IT? EUROPE TOURIST INFOFOR YOUNG
PEOPLE
5 MINUTES of HISTORYThe way we wereBS (before stealing of saint
Nicholas )III century B.C Under the Roman Empire, Bari, a small
Peucetan port, becomes municipium cum suffragio (city with full
rights of citizenship). 493 After the fall of the Roman Empire,
Bari becomes part of the Ostrogoths Kingdom.553 After the
Greek-Gothic War, Bari joins the Byzantine Empire. But the
Byzan-tines can’t enjoy this victory for too long.568 The
Langobards come to Italy. For two centuries Langobards fight
against Byzantines to control the peninsula and Bari too. In Italy
we say “among the two fighters, the third one enjoys”. The third
ones are the Arabs.847 Arabs establish an emirate in the city. It
will be ruled by just three caliphs, Khalfūn, Mufarraj ibn Sallam,
Sawdān: after your departure, fight your nostalgia for Peroni using
their names
as tongue-twisters!871 The emperor Ludwig II reconquers the city
to Western christianity only just to give it back again to Eastern
christianity. The Byzantines are back and they make Bari the
capital of the thema di Langobardia (we should admit that they were
loyal towards their old rivals, as they left them the honour of the
name!). 1071 Between some raids by the Saracens (clearly not as
loyal as the Byzantines) and a rescue from attacks led by the
Venice doge Pietro II Orseolo, the Norman ruler Robert Guiscard
conquers Bari. 1087 During the Norman domination, the relics of
Saint Nicholas, bishop of Myra (Turkey) are brought to Bari; relics
are kept in the Basilica of St Nicholas which is opened in 1089 and
will be finished in 1197. AS (after stealing of saint Nicholas)1464
The Normans will be followed by Suebi, Anjou, Aragoneses and
Sforza. Isa-bella of Aragon, wife of Gian Galeazzo Maria Sforza,
and her daughter Bona Sfor-za, queen of Poland, established a
refined Renaissance court in the castle of Bari.
1557 Death of Bona Sforza. The Spanish, Austrian and Bourbon
dominations followed each other.1808 Joseph Bonaparte, king of
Naples, rules Bari.April 24th 1813 Joachim Murat (1767-1815) sets
the first stone of the new district rising next to the old town,
which still keeps this name (il borgo murattiano - Murat district).
1934 Opening of the Fiera del Levante 68 .1943 The port of Bari is
the scene of two main war events. On 9 September, general Nicola
Bellomo leads few soldiers against the enemy once he gets news the
German army wants to destroy the port... Thanks to the help of the
people, he manages to stop them, although after the 8th September
many people (including general Pietro Badoglio and the king) throw
away their uniforms and run away (in spite of his heroism, Bellomo
will be executed for war cri-mes). On 2nd December of the same
year, a German air raid causes the sinking of 17 ships; among them,
the Liberty ship John Harvey, which was laden with mustard gas. The
released gas makes hundreds of victims.
The way we areAugust 8th 1991 The ship Vlora arrives at the
port: more than 20000 Albanians are on board. It’s the largest
disembarking of immigrants in Italy ever. They were running away
after the eco-nomic and political crisis that took place in Albania
due to the end of Communism. October 26th and 27th 1991 The
Petruzzelli theatre is on fire (reconstructed and inaugurated in
2009). This deep open wound in the heart of the city is the
beginning of the urban re-generation: the old town, until then a
poor area, is redesigned by the EU project URBAN II (1994-1999).
The port, the airport, the interport and the railway are all due
for infrastructural re-
novation. April 2nd , 23rd and 24th 2006 The Apulia Region
demolishes Punta Perotti, a very huge and horrible building
situated close to the city beach 67 . 2013 On Twitter our mayor
describes a lazy student as tr’mon (see “Speak like a local”) and
Ridge and Brooke, the two main characters of the evergreen American
soap “Beautiful” (a classic for the Bari housewives), play in the
ad of a local furniture company. It’s the defi-nitive sign of the
Bari and Apulia influence in Italy.2014. Release of USE-IT Bari map
for young travellers. Bari is the first South Italy city to join
the network. Up yours, Lecce!
12
37
CONTENTS AND DISTRIBUTIONGiuseppe Santoiemma, Chiara Ciociola,
Paola Liliana Buttiglione, Aurelio Cian-ciotta, Antonella
Ciociola.ENGLISH EDITORKatrina MitchellGRAPHIC LAYOUTARTE IN
SCATOLAABOUT THIS MAPNobody has paid to be registred in this map.
The choice of locations was made by young people living in Bari.
Thanks to all who helped us with their participation, suggestions
and corrections.
LOCAL TIP
WWW.USE-IT.TRAVEL
USE-IT is tourist info for young people: made by locals,
no-nonsense and up-to-date. Want to stay posted about the new maps
coming? Please like www.facebook.com/USE-IT.
[email protected]/USE-IT
Bariwww.akubari.itfacebook.com/akubari
PUBLISHED IN 2014 BY
AKU
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LET’S DANCE!What if you are too tired to eat
and want to go dancing? If you’re not satisfied with the dj sets
arranged in the ve-
nues of Old Town or Murat district, you need to step outside of
the center. Electronics, house and techno at Reset (Via Pietro
Colletta 12), while the Demodè (Via Dei Cedri 14, Modugno) schedule
is ba-sed more on hip hop and rock: this is also the place in
town where the biggest Italian rock bands play live. Be aware:
no car or taxi (remote location and no
night buses) means no party! (Fri-Sat 23:00-4:00/but opening
days and times can be
variable)
AVANTGARDE THEATREAntonella, 34, teacher-factotum - Located in
an ex-factory in the suburbs, Teatro Kismet OperA is an “Opificio
per le arti” (Workplace of Arts), a source of innovation and
experimentation: we could define its schedule as “glocal”,
with its usual mix of avantgarde drama, rock gigs and art
exhibitions. And if you still keep a childish
heart... don’t forget the Maggio per l’Infanzia (May for
Childhood), the feast of Befana
and the magical hot chocolate made by Mrs Pina!
FIERA DEL LEVANTE: a city inside the city
The world stops in Bari for 10 days in Sep-tember for the Fiera
del Levante (Fair of
the East): Bari people rush to visit its stands! From the
international artisan market to the stand of the agricultural
machines, loads of people walk around the Fiera district. We
recommend to go in the week to avoid long waiting in queues. The
Fiera del Levante is among the most important fairs in Italy and
maybe the main commercial and economical local event. The rest of
the year the area is an isolated ghost city, except on some events
like the Medimex music fair.
Eataly: in a city and region dominated byfood, there is still
space for Eataly, a tem-
ple of food where you can experience all the best of our
national gastronomy. There is only one limit: the size of your
stomach (or of your wal-let?). (Mon-Thu/Sun 10-23; Fri-Sat
10-00)
Pineta di San Francesco: A huge park suf-fering from a certain
amount of
degradation. In summer it’s better to go to the beach close by,
San Francesco alla Rena.
Cinema ABC: a hidden treasure of Bari, asmall and intimate
cinema focused only to
art films and exhibitions. (Mon-Sat; € 7; Wed € 5)
Panfocaccia: take a piece of focaccia here and eat it on the
promenade enjoying the
view or before watching a film at the Cinema ABC: it’s located
just in front of it. (Mon-Sat 9:00-14:00; 17:00-21:00)
La Gassa D’amante: Normally you go to CUS, the University Sport
Center, to do
sport and lose weight. Not in Bari. Inside the center there is
the restaurant La Gassa D’amante, whose name means bowline knot. It
is not very cheap but you will eat the best raw fish of the city.
Booking recommended. (Mon-Sat 12:30-15:00/20:00-23:30; Sun eve
clo)
The route follows the East waterfront. You will see a variety of
buildings here ranging from those built in the 20th century, to a
more Liberty or eclectic style and also some which show signs of
monumental fa-scist public building.
Along the Lungomare Nazario Sauro, not far from the sea, there
is a line of buildings made during the Fascism age between 1930 and
1935. We start with the military architecture of the (A) Caserma
dei carabinieri Chiaffredo Bergia (the regional headquarter of the
Carabinieri, Italian army cops) and the (B) Palazzo del Comando III
Legione Aerea (the regional headquarter of the national Air Force).
The bell tower of (C) Palazzo della Provincia (Province Building)
is a homage to the Renaissance architecture of civil buildings and
reminds one of the St Sabino Cathedral bell tower, that stands out
in the old town in the north. On the fourth floor of Palazzo della
Provincia there is the Pinacoteca Corrado Giaquinto (Tue-Sun 9-19):
this art gallery provides a broad documentation of the history of
art in Apulia from the 11th to 19th century.
The former (D) Albergo delle Nazioni (now the luxurious Five
Stars Boscolo Hotel) was built to complete the Fiera del Levante.
On Lungomare Araldo di Crollalanza the small tour in the eclec-tic
part of Bari begins, from here you can see the Corinthian capitals
of (E) Palazzo Fione Sapona-ro (year 1925). In Largo Adua look
right to see the clock tower of (F) Palazzo Colonna (1925-1927) and
left to see the (G) Kursaal Santalucia (1924-1927). In the same
view you can see the cinema, theatre and restaurant, all in decò
style. In Piazza Eroi del Mare there is (H) Palazzo Dioguardi and
in Piazza IV Novembre the (I) Teatro Margherita. This theatre is an
unknown architectural jewel: designed in Liberty style, it’s the
only theatre in Europe built directly on the sea, on stilts! Closed
since 1980, the theatre should become a Mo-dern Art Museum; but
thanks to the usual slow Italian bureaucracy and the lack of
funding, at the moment it hosts temporary art exhibitions and it’s
not completely restored yet. We hope it will be ready for the next
USE-IT BARI edition!
MODERN ARCHITECTURE WALKINGStart: Lungomare Nazario Sauro 20
min.
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THIS WAY
THE MUSICAL HEART OF BARIOctober 27th, 1991, 5.10 a.m. The fall
of the
immense painted dome of the Teatro Petruzzelli extinguishes the
flames of a big fire. The theatre is a pile of rubble. Built at the
end of the 19th century, the theatre takes its name from the
Petruzzelli bro-thers, traders from Trieste. It’s the fourth
biggest in Italy: Nureyev, Ray Charles and Pavarotti performed
here. Only in 2009 Petruzzelli re-opened. If you are an admirer of
opera or ballet, if you want to take a look at the elegantly
dressed ladies, look for a gallery or box seat (the stalls are not
exactly affordable). You’ll be overpowered by decorations and when
the lights turn off, you’ll experience the romanticism of the old
Bari people, who used to rent a whole box just to en-joy the opera
alone with their girlfriend.
THE PALACE ON THE WATERIn 1932 the Palazzo dell’Acquedotto
(Palace of
the Waterwork) was built to celebrate the making of the
Waterwork (1915). There is also a museum about the history of the
Apulia Waterwork. (Sat-Sun 10:00-12:00; Booking in advance is
necessary to visit)
EASY CONTEMPORARY ARTWORKGalleria Art Core was born from the
project
“I low art”, that promoted the Contemporary Art among the
non-art people. Painting, photo-graphy and installation are the
starting point for understanding contemporary art for kids,
teenagers and non-experts. (Mon 17:00-20:30; Tue-Sat
10:00-12:30/17:00-20:30; Sun by appointment)
INDEPENDENT BOOKSHOPBig bookstores are more and more similar
to malls. If you hate these places, come to Libreria Zaum! It’s
full of small independent publishings, comics and fanzines, plus an
enchanting collection of pop-up books for children. (Mon 16.30-20;
Tue-Sat 9.30-13/16.30-20; Sun clo)
BLUE IN THE FACEArt Gallery Blu Org has become in a few
years a benchmark for the lovers of art and culture.
International young artist contests, temporary exhibitions, wine
and food events: this is just a small part of the gallery
activities. Just one problem: the gallery lacks a definite
calendar!
IRISH PUBJoy’s Pub is THE pub in Madonnella, a popular
and multiethnic neighbourhood. Hard to get bored: gigs and music
contests (mostly focused on rock and 80’s new wave), the dartboard,
role plays and football match screenings. (Tue-Sat 16:00-02:00)
DELICIOUS ICE CREAMLocals die for the ice-cream flavours of
Gela-
teria Piccinni like rum chocolate, espresso coffee or seasonal
ones like autumn pumpkin and chestnut ice cream. (Mon-Fri
12:00-23.30; Sat 11:00-01:00; Sun 11:00-0.30)
ESSENTIAL ICE CREAMColin has the atmosphere of a Bulgarian
bar
from the 70’s: no sign, lack of any contemporary furniture, just
a little table and two chairs. But the ice cream is incredibly
genuine: a few simple fla-vours made with traditional procedures
and organic products. (Tue-Sun 7:00-22:00)
TAVERNA OR NOT TAVERNA?Taverna Nuova del Maltese is the
younger
brother of Taverna Vecchia . This place is popula-ted by a broad
human fauna: desperate students, old bohémien, environmental
activists and big dogs. (Mon-Fri 11:00-00:00; Sat-Sun
21:00-3:00)
VEGETARIAN BISTRÒTerra Terra Bistrò is a fresh and young
French
style bistrò. Try one of the creative veggie juices and don’t
forget the pistachio soufflé. (Mon 10:00-20:00; Tue-Sat
10:00-01:00; € 10-15)
THE TASTE OF HISTORYPasticceria Stoppani is a patisserie still
owned
by the heirs of the Swiss family that started the busi-ness in
1860. Today the inside of Stoppani may look a bit old-fashioned,
but their Swiss-quality chocolate is always a must. (Mon-Sat
8.20-13:00/16.30-20:00; Sun 8:00-13.30)
CULTURAL INSTITUTIONThe Laterza family established its bookshop
in
1896, and some years later the publishing house. Sin-ce then
Laterza has always been a benchmark in Italy for independence of
thought and the high quality of its publications, mostly essays.
The anti-fascist, phi-losopher and historian Benedetto Croce
(1866-1952) greatly contributed to the company. (Mon-Sat
9.15-13.15; 16.30-20.30)
HISTORIC PIZZERIAThe owners of Da Mike are (too much?)
chatty:
they will tell you a lot of stories about the once upon a time
Bari or the latest news about the local football team. The
mozzarelle in carrozza (fried mozzarella) is the not so diet
friendly house specialty. (Daily open; 12:00-15:00/20:00-1:00; €
10)
THE VEGETARIAN WAYAnna Laura, 26, vegetarian - “Are
you vegetarian? Why, are you sick?” or “Is there meat in the
dish? No, no, just chicken!” These are some of the classic answers
that you as a vegetarian tou-rist could expect here. The places
really equipped are very few and not so cheap. I recom-mend Frulez,
whose menu is based on local seaso-nal vegetables and fruit.
(Mon-Sat 7.30-22:00; € 10) Alternatively, see and
PUGLIA SWEET CHAINCream, pear, dark chocolate: try those ice
creams at Sandrino, but, remember: according to the season,
flavours can be unavailable! (Mon-Fri/Sun 7-23.30; Sat 7-0.30)
NO ITALIAN DUBBING!Foreign films are always dubbed in Italy.
Do
you feel odd listening to George Clooney speaking Italian? Take
a look at the schedule of Multicinema Galleria: this multiplex
periodically plans viewings of films in original language. (€
5)
PIZZA AND FOOTBALLThe Bari football team is in newspapers
now
for its economic problems and poor results. You can revive the
good old times by looking at the photos of the past Serie A players
on the walls of Pizzeria Da Donato. (Mon-Sat 20-00; € 10)
GONE WITH THE CORNETTOPasticceria Fanelli is known for its
endless
variety of homemade cornetto (croissant). The list is almost as
long the queue of people at night time! (Mon-Thu 19-3:00; Fri
19:00-4:00; Sat 17:00-7:00; Sun 19:00-3:00; € 1-1,50)
THE HOUSE OF FILMAndrea Sgobba, 28, film-eater -
Apulia is the set of several films and sin-ce 2010 Bari has
hosted the Bif&st, Bari International Film Festival. When the
festival doesn’t take place, every film lo-ver can enjoy the
Mediateca Regionale. Register and you will have access to free
exhibitions, festivals, pc, a kids area and an infinite catalogue
of film, magazi-nes and books. (Mon-Fri; 10-20)
THE GOOD STORIES OF THE OLD SOUTHA spacious “organic” counter,
different
shaped tables and odd chairs: some examples of the creative
wooden furniture of Storie del Vecchio Sud. The place is popular
with the alternative local scene: when Berlusconi came to Bari last
time he definitely couldn’t consider making a speech here. (Daily
open 20:00-3:00)
CREATIVE CYCLINGAurelio, dj-electronic music re-
viewer-urban cyclist-ping pong player - In Ciclospazio you can
transform your race-bike into a stationary bike or restore an old
bike in a creative way. The managers always organize different
activities: bike trips, small excursions and beer pong
competitions.
TAKE A BREAK WITH ZIO SAVERIOGiusi, 26, receptionist - Let’s
stop
over at Marrakesch People! Zio Saverio – “Uncle Saverio” – is
the owner of this small and picturesque haunt. Zio Saverio is very
cheerful: share a drink with him but don’t expect to understand
him, he only speaks local dialect! (Daily open 19:00-3:00)
ICE CREAM FOR EVERYBODYAt Gelatiere those that only eat lactose-
and
gluten-free will find ice-cream flavours for any food
intolerance. (Mon-Sat 10-00)
ENVIRONMENTAL PUBE-koinè is designed only with recycled
mate-
rials. And if you want information about the city’s nightlife,
ask the wonderful red haired Anna. (Daily open 20:00-3:00)
CREATIVE CLOTHES SHOPAngelica Castellaneta, 24, stu-
dent - Charity Chic is the first (and only) Charity Shop in
Bari. Thanks to the advice of Pamela & Co, you will come out
dressed up supercool with your wallet still full. (Mon-Fri
10-13/18-21; Sat 10-13)
MY PANZEROTTO IS BIGGER THAN YOURS
Pick your number and wait for your “extra-large” panzerotto
beeing made by Di Cosimo! Don’t ask for anything not included in
the menu and, if you’re a couple, don’t kiss: the owners, quite
aged, have strange ideas on female behaviour and public morali-ty.
(19:00-24-00; Wed clo)
FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVEThe Chiesa Russa, with its glittering
green
dome in Russian style, was built by order of the last zar,
Nicholas II Romanov: the Orthodox people nee-ded their own place to
worship the beloved Saint Nicholas! The 1917 Russian Revolution
changed the faithful Orthodoxes into atheistic comrades: then, the
church was sold to the Bari Municipality in 1937. On 1st March 2009
Italy officially gave the church back to Russia. (Sat 18-20; Sun
10-12.30)
OCCUPIED COMMUNITY CENTERSocrate Centro Sociale Occupato has
been a
home to many homeless people. The center is self-financing with
social events and concerts. Thanks to the Cartoon & Comics
Festival (CA.CO Festival), it is fully decorated with wonderful
murals and paintings.
A LITTLE OASISIn a city lacking green areas, pay a visit to
the
Orto Botanico (Botanic Garden). The luxurious col-lection of
Lithops (living stones) is recommended: those kind of juicy South
African plants look like smo-oth pebbles. (Mon-Fri 8.30-13.30; free
entrance)
MEMORIES OF A SINCERE BEACHIn 2012 Gabriele Micalizzi shot a
photo-report
on the beach of Pane e Pomodoro. All day long in summer, large
family communities occupy the beach with bags of homemade
specialties. Come here to have free lessons in local dialect or to
watch people eating fresh raw octopus. The sea water here isn’t
always healthy and young ladies should avoid going topless and
watch out for their bags (but the area is monitored by the
Police).
PARK ADVENTURESDue to a complicated legal dispute, The Parco
di Punta Perotti is smaller than planned. It’s the ideal stop if
you want to have a break in the sun or jog. Late at night, unless
you are looking for some “special ad-ventures”, we don’t recommend
you pay a visit.
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