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1
AirJet SpinningPerspectives for the future
TENCEL® at 20New Orleans, December 5th, 2012
Hans LeitnerProject Manager Special ProjectsBusiness Unit Fibers
2
Content of the presentation
Ideas supporting developments
Benefits / Limitations of established spinning systems
Requirements for new spinning technologies
Air Jet Spinning – the latest development in spinning technology
Current and new applications of AirJet spun yarns
The market prospects of AirJet spinning
3
Economy & DevelopmentsDevelopments are driven by the idea to offer products which
are better in quality than established productsoffer characteristics not known to date could be produced more economically
There is no difference between the textile industry and any otherindustry
To become a commercial success developments have to matchquality and / or production standards of established products
Developments must have advantages compared to establishedproducts (better quality, better wear properties, lower price …) to become attractive for the final customer
4
Economy & DevelopmentsAny development regardless if it is related to fiber, to yarn or fabricproduction will be crosschecked against parameters and characteristics known from established fibers, yarns, fabrics orprocessing technologies
Characteristics of ringspun yarns / fabrics are the quality targets, whichhave to be matched by any new spinning system
Production costs of ringspinning are the benchmark a new spinningsystem has to match
5
RingspinningBenefits & Limitations
Ringspinning without any doubt sets the targets for any new spinningsystem in terms of flexibility, yarn quality, the count range which couldbe spun and last but not least for the productivity
Ringspinning has its limitations in terms ofProductivity Spindle speed, traveller speed, total draft,
yarn package weight…..Processing costs Add. costs for the roving and winding process
Spinning triangle The reason for yarn hairiness and one of thesources for weakplaces in the yarns
Spinning tension Could create add. limitations when fiberssensitive to thermal stress are processed…
6
RotorspinningBenefits & Limitations
Rotorspinning has reduced processing costs by eliminating the rovingprocess, the integration of winding & quality control into the spinningprocess and a significantly increased productivity. Automatic piecingand doffing have established automation in yarn production….
Rotorspinning has its limitations inYarn structure Which is the reason for the significant lower
strength, the characteristic fabric touch and thelimited count range compared to ringspun yarns
Processing speed Limited for synthetics or blends with syntheticfibers compared to cotton or man made fibersDepending on the rotor diameter / length of fiber
7
New Spinning Systems Basic Requirements
Market research predicts that global fiber consumption will reach~ 100 Mio tons per year by 2020 and further growth is expected*
We expect that the annual fiber production / consumption will grow by 30 Mio to within 10 years
The market for spun yarns will predominantly grow in the segment of fibers with characteristics similar to cotton (fineness and staple length)
Developments of new spinning systems will concentrate on this segmentor will try to find alternatives to the established methods of yarn production
Concepts like the Uniplex System from DuPont and SSM are working on a single step technology to transfer filaments into yarn with spun yarnappearance
* Source: Allen Terhaar / Kevin Latner – Leadership in Cotton is about more then Size
8
Global Yarn Production - Estimate
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Yarn
Mar
ket
Mio
t/ye
ar
3 6 12 18 24 30 40 50 60 80 100 120 140
Yarn count NeSource – Textilmaschinenfabrik Rieter
9
New Spinning SystemsBasic Requirements
Yarn structure has to be similar to those of ringspun yarns
Yarn strength and elongation should be as close as possible to thefigures known from ringspun yarns
High flexibility related to the fibers processedProcessing of 100 % cotton, man made fibers, blends of cotton with man made or synthetic fibers (should be) has to be possible
Productivity per spinning position has to be higher than the one knownfrom established spinning systems
The count range of a new spinning system should be similar to thoseof ringspinning
10
Spinning Limits Cotton Type Spinning
0102030405060708090
100110120130140150
1,7 dtex 1,3 dtex 1,0 dtex 0,8 dtex
Yar
n co
unt -
Ne
100 fibers - OE
75 fibers - Air Jet
65 fibers - Air Jet
55 fibers - Ring
11
New Spinning Systems Basic Requirements
Spinning tension has to be as low as possible to avoid thermal stress to minimize the chance that synthetic fibers / yarns get damaged byexcessive heat during processing
Yarn hairiness should be improved compared to ringspun yarnsextremely important for yarns dedicated to knit applications
Winding process and quality control must be integrated in thespinning process
Automatic piecing and doffing is a must
12
New Spinning Systems - Conclusions
A spinning system which overcomes the limitations of establishedsystems will become extremely important for the yarn production in thefuture
Of all the new spinning systems launched in the last 25 years AirJetSpinning technologies like the Murata MVS system or the RieterCom4®Jet system J 10 / J 20 meet most of the requirements listed
The first AirJet Spinning system sold in significant numbers was the MJS system of Murata launched in 1981, followed by the MVS system in 1997
13
New Spinning Systems AirJet Spinning
Murata offers the MVS type 870, Rieter the Com4®jet J 20
14
AirJet SpinningMarket Introduction
Like for any new spinning technology it took several years to establishthe AirJet Spinning technology due to
differences in the yarn structure and yarn characteristicsdifferences in the touch of fabrics based on AirJet spun yarnsreservations of the customers towards fabrics based on a newtechnology a lower variety of fibers, which could be processed, made itdifficult at first for the AirJet technology to become accepted
15
Characteristic of Yarns Spun withDifferent Spinning Systems
Open End - Rotor Air - Jet
2-Nozzles (MJS)
Air- Jet
Vortex (MVS)
Ring
conventional
Ring
Compact
16
Todays Situation – AirJet SpinningThe AirJet spinning technology is well established for the production of cellulosic fibers like Lenzing Viscose, Lenzing Modal®, TENCEL® and blends
Sales figures of Murata and Rieter confirm that AirJet spinning can beconsidered as an established spinning technology
At present more than 1000 AirJet spinning machines (generation MVS 861 / 870 and J10 / J20) are installed globally. Information from the market indicatethat at least 300 Air Jet machines are sold annually
Based on production figures for Lenzing Viscose we can calculate that 100 AirJet spinning machines (100 spinning positions) produce about 41.000 to of yarns / year of Ne 30/1
17
AirJet SpinningCurrent Applications
VI. 참여업체완제품샘플 : S&D FABRIC
ECOSIL MODAL 40’s
S&D 848MO
ECOSIL MODAL 40’s + 20D
S&D 949MO
18
AirJet SpinningCurrent Applications - Knits
Due to parameters like a low hairinessmuch less fiber lint during further processingan improved pilling performancea reduced spiralityan extremely even fabric appearance
Air Jet spun yarns are meanwhile well established for theproduction of knitted fabrics
MicroModal® or Tencel®Micro fibers will expand the spinning limits of the AirJet technology and are improving the softness of AirJet spunyarns / fabrics significantly
19
AirJet SpinningExtended Applications – Wovens
Until today AirJet spun yarns are only used to a small extent for theproduction of woven fabrics
Results of woven developments, comments made by customers, fabric developments / fabrics available on the market
are a clear indication that AirJet spun yarns have as well a potential to become important for the production of woven fabrics
To get a better understanding of the possibilities to use AirJet spunyarns for woven applications we have run and we are still running a number of developments
20
AirJet Spinning - WovensSupported by yarns from different customers and spun inhouseLenzing has made woven developments based on AirJet spun yarnsin counts between Ne 14/1 and Ne 80/1
One of these tests was made to see if a fabric dedicated to a technicalenduse made out of AirJet spun TENCEL® yarns can match thestrength of a fabric based on ringspun combed cotton – Mako* type
Fabric construction – twill 2/1, Ne 20 x 20, density 98 x 67,3
The strength of the AirJet spun fabric is significantly higher than thestrength of the fabric based on combed cotton
(*)Mako cotton, Egyptian extra-long staple cotton, from the name of Mako bey, in whose garden Jumel discovered a cultivar of this cotton
21
AirJet Spinning – WovenTechnical Fabric
Fabric strength woven - comparison 100% Cotton vs. 100% Tencel
250
350
450
550
650
750
850
950
1050
1150
1250
1350
1450
1550
Breaking strength warp [N] Breaking strength weft [N]
[N]
100 % Cotton - OE 100 % Combed Cotton - Mako100 % Tencel Standard - AJ
22
AirJet Spinning - WovensBy joint developments with customers shirting fabrics have beenrealised in yarn counts up to Ne 60/1 out of TENCEL®Micro and TENCEL®/Cotton
This project was started with plain weave constructions like 150 x 115The strength of the TENCEL®Micro yarns in Ne 60/1 reached ~ 21 cN/tex(tested at 20 seconds/break)
Workwear and Corporatewear fabrics based on AirJet spun TENCEL®/ Polyester blends have been developed and launched
To create fabrics of superior quality we have started these developmentswith two plyed AirJet spun yarns in Ne 41/2 in plain weave, twill and broken twill and constructions like 94 x 71 and 94 x 94
Some quality figures of these fabrics are demonstrated at the next pages
23
AirJet Spinning - WovenWorkwear
Workwear - TENCEL® /Polyester
Blend ratio 50/50
Fabric weight 180 g/m²
Weave 3/1 twill
24
AirJet Spinning - WovenCorporate Wear
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
Ust
er C
V%
Thin
- 50
%
Thic
k +
50%
Nep
s +
200%
Nep
s +
280%
cN/te
x
CV%
cN
/tex
Elon
gatio
n %
CV%
Elon
gatio
n
Ne 41 TENCEL®/Polyester
Ne 41/2 TENCEL®/Polyester
25
AirJet Spinning - WovenCorporate Wear
Fabric comparison - Breaking strength
500
550
600
650
700
750
800
850
900
950
1000
Breaking strength warp [N] Breaking strength weft [N]
[N]
Plain weave Broken Twill
26
AirJet Spinning - WovenCorporate Wear
Fabric comparison - Abrasion resistance - Martindale
0
5000
10000
15000
20000
25000
30000
35000
40000
45000
Martindale - undamaged Martindale - till hole formation
Plain weave Broken Twill
Cyc
les
27
AirJet SpinningCurrent Applications
At present AirJet spun yarns are spun in counts between Ne 14/1 and Ne 50/1
In line with the global yarn production, "traditional" counts like Ne 30/1 and Ne 40/1 are the most important counts spun on AirJet systems
Until today the majority of the Airjet spun yarns are used for theproduction of circular knits
Alternative applications for AirJet spun yarns could be flat knits, seamlessfabrics (yarns based on Microfibers)Basic trials with AirJet spun yarns have been made with warp knitting
28
Global Spinning Capacity
Source: ITMF, GherziFuture Trend of AJ
12 24 36 48 60
100%
0%
50%
Glo
bal R
epar
titio
nof
sp
indl
es/
roto
rs/ a
irjet
200 [Ne]
YarnCount
Ring spinning (global)240 mn installed spindles (not all operative) – producing ~26 mio t of yarns
~ 85 mn spindles producing~ 5 mn to of fine count yarns
~ 35 mnspindlesproducing7‐8 mn tocoarse yarns
~ 120 mnspindlesproducing~ 13 mn to of medium count yarns
Airjet spinning (MJS / MVS / J10 + J20)4.2 mn spindle equivalentProducing 0.5 mn to of yarns
OE spinning~ 9 mn rotors(40 mn spi. equiv.)producing10 mn to of yarn
Installed spindles and short staple yarn production 2010
Source: Gherzi estimates
29
AirJet SpinningPerspectives – Additional Applications
To expand the market of AirJet yarns significantly we consider it ofextreme importance to explore the use of AirJet spun yarns in wovenfabrics.
Quality arguments accepted in knits (eg. the improved pillingbehaviour) are valid as well for woven fabrics
The high strength of TENCEL® fibers will help to overcome one of thelimitations of AirJet spun yarns, the lower strength compared to ringspun yarns.
TENCEL®Micro yarns in Ne 100/1 have been the finest AirJet spunyarns which we have used to realise woven developments
30
AirJet SpinningPerspectives – Spinning Limits
During spinning tests in 2011/ 2012 with 100 % MicroModal® Air (0,8 dtex) on AirJet spinning machines we have reached yarn countssignificantly finer than Ne 100/1
Trials like that confirm that the technical limits of the AirJet Spinningtechnology should be evaluated further in much more details to answerquestions like
Will it be possible to spin AirJet yarns with less than 70 fibers / cross section / yarn at industrial conditions and with excellent quality figures?Which fibers would be the best to spin fine AirJet yarns economically?Fibers like TENCEL® (Micro) will strongly support the further expansion of the AirJet spinning technology especially for woven fabrics
31
AirJet SpinningPerspectives – Fibers processed
Development of the AirJet Spinning technology has to fine tune theprocess to be able to spin 100 % Cotton (if possible carded cotton) and 100 % Polyester
Processing of carded cotton on the AirJet system has been declared toppriority by one of the machine manufacturers
Processing of fiber blends can be considered as establishedSpinning limits for blended yarns have to be evaluated individually dependingon the characteristics of the blending partner and the final applicationAirJet spun yarns based on blends like Viscose / Polyester, TENCEL® / Polyester, Lenzing Modal® / Cotton, Lenzing Modal® / Silk and even blendswith linen are offered commercially
32 Source: Gherzi estimates
Total Spun Yarns 36’000 t
100% CO carded14’000 t
62’000 SE
Blend CO carded /PES 4’000 t22’000 SE
Blend CO carded /CV 500t – 400 SE
100% CO combed4’000 t
37’000 SE
Blend CO combed/PES 4’000 t27’000 SE
Blend CO combed/CV 700t – 5‘600 SE
100% Synthetic‐PES SF Yarn 7’000 t68’000 SE
100% CV Yarn 1’500 t – 13‘000 SEBlend PES/CV‐Yarn 1’500 t – 13’000 SE
2010 [´000 t and ´000 SE]
Total SE ~250’000 SE13’000 t~40’000 SE
21’000 t~173’000 SE
1’000 t~27’000 SE
4 18-20 40 60 200
N°
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
89
Global Yarn Production – related to Individual Fibers
33
AirJet SpinningPerspectives – Fabric Quality
Quality arguments like
the low yarn hairinesscombined with an improved pilling performance of knitted and woven fabricsthe significantly reduced development of fiber lint during fabricprocessing
have been (and will still be) of help to establish the AirJet Spinningtechnology in a much larger way than it is established today
34
AirJet SpinningPerspectives – Fabric Quality
Variations of the machine settings (processing speed and air pressure) will allow the production of fabrics with modified touch (crisper hand, softer hand…)
Processing of Microfibers will offer the possibility to create soft(er) fabrics
A significant better visual regularity and appearance of Airjet spunfabrics – knits or wovens – will become a quality argument
35
Fabric EvenessRingspun – AirJet Spun Yarn
TENCEL® Micro LF 0,9 / 34 carded at C60, Siro spun, Ne 40/1
TENCEL® Micro LF 0,9 /34 carded at C60, AirJet yarn, Ne 40/1
36
AirJet SpinningPerspectives - Summary
Lenzing is convinced that AirJet spinning systems will win a significantshare for the production of spun yarns in future
Our commitment for the AirJet spinning technlogy is based on thefollowing reasons
The expected increase in the production of synthetic and man made cellulosic fibers to meet the growing demand for fibersAn expansion of the applications eg. into woven fabricsA global trend towards yarns in finer counts (Ne 40 and finer…) The quality advantages for fabrics out of AirJet spun yarnsComments made by customers about the commercial and technical potential of the AirJet technology.…
37
Thank you very much
for your attention!
Break till 11:20