1

4-H-929-WHelper's Guide

4-H Sew Much Fun • Helper’s Guide

Sew Much Fun

Helper’s Guide

Sew Much Fun

Helper’s Guide

2

“Sew Much Fun” is a series of activity guides to be used with Let’s Sew! A Beginner’s

Sewing Guide by Nancy Zieman (4-H-924). The series consists of five publications:

• Sew Simple for youth in Grades 3-4 (4-H-925)• Sew Smart for youth in Grades 5-6 (4-H-926)• Sew Fine for youth in Grades 7-9 (4-H-927)• And Sew On for youth in Grades 10-12 (4-H-928)• Sew Much Fun Helper’s Guide (4-H-929-W)

Helper/Leader’s GuideCongratulations on your decision to be a “helper” to young people involved in the SewMuch Fun series. The helper’s role is critical in providing an opportunity for youth tolearn and grow in a supportive environment. This guide has been designed to provideyou with an overview of the new Sew Much Fun series. The Helper’s Guide containshelpful hints for working with young people, developing life skills, and teachingexperientially.

Youth Activity GuidesThe activity guides were written to be developmentally appropriate for specific grades,but they may be used by youths in any grade depending on their interest, skills, andexperience. Each guide includes suggested reading, learning activities, skill tips, ideasfor both wearable and non-wearable sewn items, and an achievement sheet. The learn-by-doing activities can be adapted to family, classroom, home school, club, and othereducational settings.

Design and writing:Renee McKee, Purdue University;Peggy Latta, Lattitudes

Editor:Frank Koontz, Purdue University

Graphics:Aaron Delaney

Layout:Nancy Bangel, Dan Annarino, Purdue University

Review and pilot team:Jackie Benham, Sharon Blasky, Lori Bouslog, Julie Hart, Andrea Hatfield, Doug Keenan,Dotty Keeton, Penny Lee, Carolyn Miner, Amy Nierman, Scott Ripberger, Marcia Werne,Carol Christenberry, Kay Edsall, Nancy Gluth, Marie Jackson, Gwen Jones, AbbyJournay, Peggy Latta, Melinda Lay, Karen Richard, and Becky Swails

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Sew Much Fun Helper's Guide

Table of Contents

Experiential Learning Model . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Developing Subject Matter and Youth Development Skills

Subject Matter Skills . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Youth Development Skills . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

The Design of the Sewing Curriculum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Learning Activities to Be Achieved by Grade Level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-7

Exhibits and Skills to Include . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8-10

Youth Learning Characteristics

10-11 Years Old . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

12-13 Years Old . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

14-16 Years Old . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

17-19 Years Old . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Action Demonstrations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Action Demonstration Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Sample Sewing Score Sheets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14-15

Glossary of Terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16-19

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Sew Much Fun Helper's Guide

Experiential Learning Model“Learning by doing” is one of the primary reasons 4-H has

been so widely recognized and respected in the field of non-formal education. Experiential learning distinguishes 4-Hyouth development education from many formal educa-tional methods. Activities are designed so youth “learn bydoing” an activity. They then discuss or reflect on whatthey did, draw conclusions from the activity, and thenapply their experience to other real world situations.Project helpers “guide” youth as they explore an activity.Youth will answer questions on record sheets at the endof each activity guide to help them generalize the youthdevelopment and subject matter skills they practiced and toshare how they will apply the skills to other situations.

Developing Subject Matter andYouth Development Skills

The sewing curriculum is designed to help youth develop both subject matter skillsand youth development skills. Subject matter skills are specific to the sewing subjectmatter, such as learning to use the sewing machine, to straighten fabric, or to fit, place,and cut out a pattern. Youth development skills are developed during the process ofdoing an activity, and they are useful long after the member completes the project.Youth development skills that are emphasized in the Sew Much Fun series are decision-making, planning and organizing, and resource management. Some of the activities alsogive young people a chance to practice these youth development skills: processing infor-mation, practicing creativity, solving problems, learning to learn, achieving goals,mastering technology, and completing a project or task.

Subject Matter SkillsThis sewing curriculum has a more defined focus than the previous 4-H clothing

curriculum. Rather than focusing solely on constructing garments, the Sew Much Funseries is designed to help youth develop basic sewing skills whether they choose toconstruct garments or prefer to make items for the home. The subject matter skillsbuilt into the curriculum fall into four categories:• Machine skills• Construction techniques• Equipment, tools, and notions• Fabric and patterns

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Youth Development SkillsThe youth development skills involved in this curriculum are part of the Four-Fold

Youth Development Model. The model encompasses the skills that a young person needsto become a confident, capable, caring, and responsible citizen (Barkman, et. al. 1999).Skills are grouped into the four H’s in the 4-H clover – Head, Heart, Hands, and Health.

Utilizing ScientificMethods

Processing Information

Self Esteem

Understanding Systems

Managing Resources

Practicing Creativity

Making Decisions

Solving Problems

Visualizing Information

Learning to Learn

Reasoning

Thinking Critically

Keeping Records

Planning & Organizing

Achieving Goals

Navigating in YourEnvironment

Working with Numbers

Communicating

Interacting Socially

Cooperating

Sharing

Resolving Conflicts

Valuing Social Justice

Valuing Diversity

Building Relationships

Caring for Others

Being Empathetic

Mastering Technology

Learning ThroughCommunity Service

Being a ResponsibleCitizen

Working in a Team

Exercising Leadership

Completing aProject/Task

Motivating Yourself

Volunteering

Being Responsible

Developing Self Esteem

Managing Yourself

Practicing Integrity &Character

Developing a PositiveView of the Future

Being Resilient

Managing Stress

Making HealthyLifestyle Choices

Preventing PersonalInjury

Expressing EmotionsPositively

Preventing Disease

Developing a Sense ofPurpose

Utilizing ResistanceSkills

HEAD HEART HANDS HEALTH

Four-Fold Youth Development Model

The Design of the Sewing CurriculumThe design and pilot team for the Sew Much Fun series decided that it was imperative

to encourage an interest in sewing (be it garment construction or home sewing). Thedesign team felt it was unnecessary to produce a sewing skills instruction manual whena resource such as Let’s Sew: A Beginner’s Sewing Guide by Nancy Zieman was availablefor purchase. The resulting curriculum was built on the foundation available inZieman’s book. The team identified specific skills, from basic to advanced, and specificlearning activities before determining the types of exhibits through which the skillscould be displayed. Following are the flow charts utilized by the team in the design ofthe Sew Much Fun series.

6

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se a

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ast

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th

ese

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for

each

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n e

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it:

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ng

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tch

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ng

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ith

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ed s

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terf

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ng,

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der

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chin

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rim

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g sh

ould

be

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d w

hen

appro

pri

ate

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hoo

se a

t le

ast

th

ree

of t

hes

eaddit

ion

al sk

ills

for

each

sew

n e

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it:

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h f

abri

c des

ign

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a s

imple

sle

eve

Apply

pu

rch

ase

d t

rim

or

ribbin

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ew w

ith

kn

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ew p

atc

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r in

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poc

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ath

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sert

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d-s

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hem

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sert

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ine

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pply

faci

ngs

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lin

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mach

ine

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itch

ing

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batt

ing

Use

a d

raw

stri

ng

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a m

ach

ine-

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ew b

utt

ons

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ibit

s an

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ls t

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3 4 5

9

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o ga

rmen

ts t

hat

can

be

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orn

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eth

er

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ool or

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ts o

utf

it –

can

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one

or m

ore

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ces

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w s

ham

wit

h b

utt

on o

r zi

pper

clo

sin

g,

appliqu

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n,

pip

ing,

or

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le.

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you

r

ow

n p

illo

w f

orm

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ebag

or d

uff

el b

ag

wit

h z

ipper

, poc

ket

s, a

nd

lin

ing

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l or

pet

clo

thes

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stru

ctio

n t

ech

niq

ues

sam

ple

not

eboo

k

Dre

ssed

, jo

inte

d s

tuff

ed a

nim

al

Sew

n ite

m f

or h

olid

ay

or s

pec

ial oc

casi

onC

onst

ruct

ion

tec

hn

iqu

es s

am

ple

not

eboo

k

Sea

m fin

ish

es a

re r

ecom

men

ded

on

all e

xpos

ed s

eam

s (e

xcep

tkn

its)

. In

terf

aci

ng,

un

der

stit

chin

g, a

nd t

rim

min

g sh

ould

be

use

d w

hen

appro

pri

ate

. C

hoo

se a

t le

ast

fou

r of

th

ese

addit

ion

alsk

ills

for

each

sew

n e

xhib

it:

Make

dart

sS

ew f

aci

ngs

Set

in

sle

eves

Do

a m

ach

ine-

topst

itch

ed h

emA

pply

rib

bin

gsIn

sert

a z

ipper

Sew

a s

imple

col

lar

Han

d-s

titc

h a

hem

Do

a m

ach

ine

blin

d h

emA

pply

bin

din

gsM

ake

bu

tton

hol

esS

ew w

ith

kn

itS

ew t

uck

s or

ple

ats

Matc

h f

abri

c des

ign

Con

stru

ct w

ith

a s

erge

rS

ew r

uff

les

Use

fib

erfill

Han

d-s

ew b

utt

ons

Apply

mach

ine

appliqu

éS

ew in

seam

poc

ket

sA

pply

tri

mIn

sert

pip

ing

Sew

a s

imple

lin

ing

Apply

mach

ine

topst

itch

ing

Sew

patc

h p

ocket

s

Sea

m fin

ish

es a

re r

ecom

men

ded

on

all e

xpos

ed s

eam

s (e

xcep

tkn

its)

. In

terf

aci

ng,

un

der

stit

chin

g, a

nd t

rim

min

g sh

ould

be

use

d w

hen

appro

pri

ate

. C

hoo

se a

t le

ast

fiv

e of

th

ese

addit

ion

al

skills

for

each

sew

n e

xhib

it:

Make

dart

sA

ttach

cu

ffs

Set

in

sle

eves

Apply

bin

din

gS

ew f

aci

ng

Sew

lin

ing

Apply

rib

bin

gA

pply

ru

ffle

sA

pply

a c

olla

rA

pply

mac

hin

e or

han

d a

ppliq

ué

Apply

mach

ine

topst

itch

ing

Inse

rt p

ipin

gIn

sert

a lapped

zip

per

Inse

rt a

n in

visi

ble

zip

per

Inse

rt a

sep

ara

tin

g zi

pper

Inse

rt a

fly

fro

nt

zipper

Con

stru

ct w

ith

a s

erge

rD

o m

ach

ine

qu

ilti

ng

Do

a h

an

d-s

titc

hed

hem

Do

a m

ach

ine-

topst

itch

ed h

emD

o a m

ach

ine

blin

d h

emM

atc

h f

abri

c des

ign

Sew

on

bu

tton

sM

ake

bu

tton

hol

esA

pply

in

seam

poc

ket

sA

pply

patc

h p

ocket

sA

pply

fro

nt

hip

poc

ket

sU

se a

tw

in n

eedle

Apply

tu

cks/

ple

ats

Use

dol

l jo

ints

Use

fib

erfill

Apply

tri

ms

Exh

ibit

s an

d S

kil

ls t

o I

ncl

ude

GR

AD

EW

EA

RA

BL

EN

ON

-WE

AR

AB

LE

AN

D A

CC

ES

SO

RIE

SS

KIL

LS

TO

IN

CL

UD

E I

N E

XH

IBIT

6 7

10

* C

hoo

se f

rom

th

e ca

tego

ries

lis

ted a

bov

e, f

ollo

win

g co

un

ty r

ule

s.

Sch

ool W

ear:

A c

omple

te o

utf

it o

f on

eor

tw

o pie

ces

suit

able

for

sch

ool w

ear.

For

ma

l W

ear:

Th

is o

utf

it m

ay

be

one

or m

ore

pie

ces

suit

able

for

an

y fo

r mal

occa

sion

, su

ch a

s a p

r om

, w

eddin

g,or

for

mal ev

enin

g fu

nct

ion

.

Dre

ss U

p: Th

is is

suit

able

for

spec

ial,

chu

rch

, or

soc

ial oc

casi

ons

that

ar e

not

con

sider

ed t

o be

form

al.

It m

ay

be

an

ou

tfit

of

one

or m

ore

pie

ces

wit

h o

r w

ith

out

its

own

cost

um

e co

at

or jack

et (lin

ed o

ru

nlin

ed). T

his

is

not

an

ou

tfit

th

at

wou

ld b

e w

orn

to

sch

ool.

Sep

ara

tes:

Con

sist

s of

th

r ee

garm

ents

that

mu

st b

e w

orn

as

a c

oord

inate

d,

com

ple

te o

utf

it.

Each

pie

ce s

hou

ld b

eve

rsat

ile

enou

gh t

o be

wor

n w

ith

oth

erga

rmen

ts in

you

r w

ardro

be.

Su

it o

r C

oat: T

he

suit

con

sist

s of

tw

opie

ces:

a s

kir

t or

pan

ts a

nd its

ow

nlin

ed jack

et. It

is

not

a d

ress

wit

h a

jack

et.

Th

e co

at

is a

sep

ara

te lin

edco

at

for

you

r w

ard

robe.

It

will

be

judge

d s

epara

tely

as

a c

oat

wit

hit

s ow

n a

cces

sori

es.

Fre

e C

hoi

ce: Th

ese

are

garm

ents

wh

ich

do

not

fit

in

th

e ot

her

cla

ssi-

fica

tion

s. E

xam

ple

s in

clu

de:

ten

nis

wea

r, s

wim

wea

r or

oth

er a

ctiv

esp

orts

wea

r; lou

nge

wea

r; r

idin

g h

abit

s;h

isto

ric,

dan

ce, th

eatr

ical or

in

tern

a-

tion

al co

stu

mes

; an

d u

nlin

ed c

oats

.

Exh

ibit

s an

d S

kil

ls t

o I

ncl

ude

GR

AD

EW

EA

RA

BL

EN

ON

-WE

AR

AB

LE

AN

D A

CC

ES

SO

RIE

SS

KIL

LS

TO

IN

CL

UD

E I

N E

XH

IBIT

8-1

2*

Sew

n ite

ms

for

you

r h

ome:

Be

crea

tive

in

you

r ch

oice

s. M

ake

item

s th

at

reflec

tyo

ur

leve

l of

sew

ing.

Be

sure

to

incl

ude

the

corr

ect

nu

mber

of sk

ills

. D

ivis

ion

s1-5

: In

clu

de

at lea

st s

ix o

f th

e sk

ills

liste

dto

th

e ri

ght.

Con

stru

ctio

n t

ech

niq

ues

sa

mple

not

eboo

k:

Ass

emble

a n

oteb

ook o

f se

win

g sa

mple

sin

clu

din

g th

e sa

mple

s list

ed in

Lev

el B

:G

rade

6 a

nd L

evel

C:

Gra

de

7.

Con

tin

ue

the

boo

k b

y addin

g adva

nce

d t

ech

niq

ues

of s

eam

ing,

sea

m f

inis

hes

, zi

pper

applica

-ti

on, bou

nd b

utt

onh

oles

, w

elt

poc

ket

s,se

rger

sam

ple

s, a

ddit

ion

al fa

bri

csw

atc

hes

, an

d o

ther

adva

nce

d t

ech

niq

ues

that

you

are

in

tere

sted

in

tes

tin

g.O

rgan

ize

you

r n

oteb

ook u

sin

g page

div

ider

s. I

ncl

ude

a s

epara

te s

hee

t list

ing

at

least

10 t

ech

niq

ues

th

at

you

have

added

to

you

r n

oteb

ook t

his

yea

r.

Sew

ing

ma

chin

e su

rvey

: V

isit

at

least

tw

om

ach

ine

dea

lers

an

d lea

rn a

bou

t th

eva

riou

s m

odel

s th

at

are

ava

ilable

.C

ompile

you

r r e

searc

h in

to a

not

eboo

kan

d lis

t su

ch f

indin

gs a

s co

st,

mach

ine

featu

res,

lit

eratu

re c

olle

cted

, an

d o

ther

info

rmati

on t

hat

wou

ld h

elp d

etail y

our

rese

arc

h.

Incl

ude

sew

ing

mach

ines

an

dse

rger

s. Y

our

repor

t sh

ould

cov

er a

t le

ast

eigh

t dif

fere

nt

mod

els.

Sea

m fin

ish

es a

re r

ecom

men

ded

on

all e

xpos

ed s

eam

s (e

xcep

tkn

its

an

d s

ome

spec

ialt

y fa

bri

cs). I

nte

rfaci

ng,

un

der

stit

chin

g,an

d t

rim

min

g sh

ould

be

use

d w

hen

appro

pri

ate

. Plu

s ch

oose

at

lea

st s

ix o

f th

ese

addit

ion

al sk

ills

for

each

sew

n e

xhib

it:

Make

dart

sA

dd faci

ngs

Matc

h f

abri

c des

ign

Add p

atc

h p

ocket

sA

ttach

cu

ffs

Add g

ath

ers

Sew

wit

h d

ifficu

lt fabri

cS

ew w

ith

kn

itA

dd f

ron

t h

ip p

ocket

sM

ake

shou

lder

pads

Make

self-e

ncl

osed

sea

ms

Use

sh

aped

sea

ms

Cre

ate

bou

nd e

dge

sU

se t

win

nee

dle

sU

se fib

erfill

Add b

onin

gA

dd v

ents

Add u

nder

lin

ing

Make

bu

tton

loo

ps

Inse

rt a

sep

ara

tin

g zi

pper

Do

a m

ach

ine-

topst

itch

ed h

emM

ake

bou

nd b

utt

onh

oles

Make

mach

ine

bu

tton

hol

esA

pply

a c

olla

rD

o m

ach

ine

or h

an

d q

uilti

ng

Con

stru

ct w

ith

a s

erge

rA

dd p

lack

ets

Apply

mach

ine

topst

itch

ing

Add a

dra

wst

rin

gIn

sert

an

in

visi

ble

zip

per

Inse

rt a

fly

fro

nt

zipper

Do

a m

ach

ine

blin

d h

emM

ake

ple

ats

Make

slee

ves

Add lin

ing

Apply

mach

ine

or h

an

dappliqu

éD

o h

an

d b

eadin

gA

dd lapel

sU

se s

pec

ialt

y th

reads

Add r

uff

les

Add in

seam

poc

ket

sIn

sert

a lapped

zip

per

Do

a h

an

d-s

titc

hed

hem

Inse

rt e

last

icM

ake

tuck

sIn

sert

pip

ing

Apply

rib

bin

gA

pply

tri

mM

ake

a n

eckban

dS

ew o

n b

utt

ons

Add a

wais

tban

dA

dd w

elt

poc

ket

sIn

sert

a h

and-p

icked

zip

per

Make

self-c

over

ed b

utt

ons

DE

FIN

ITIO

N O

F A

N O

UTF

IT:

An

ou

tfit

is

a g

arm

ent

or g

arm

ents

th

at

wh

enpu

t to

geth

er m

ake

a c

omple

te loo

k,

such

as

a o

ne-

or

two-

pie

ce d

ress

;on

e- o

r tw

o-pie

ce p

an

t su

it;

or a

th

ree-

pie

ce c

ombin

ati

on s

uch

as

pan

ts,

vest

, an

d s

hir

t.

11

Youth Learning CharacteristicsBelow you will find a list of characteristics that are common to children in four age

levels. Please remember, however, that children develop at their own pace, and all char-acteristics will not be observed in all children at the same age. You should find thisoutline helpful as you work with youth of different ages. (Adapted from Ages and Stagesof Child and Youth Development [NCR-292] by Judith Myers-Walls, associate professor,Child Development and Family Studies, Purdue University.)

10-11 Years Old• Are active, full of energy, and anything but quiet. Activities should encourage

physical involvement.• May often change interests, jumping from one thing to another. Activities divided

into small pieces or steps work best.• Are fairly concrete thinkers and tend to be more attentive if they have an opportunity

for hands-on learning (seeing and doing, rather than just listening).• Are just beginning to think logically and symbolically and are beginning to under-

stand abstract ideas. As they consider an idea, they think it is either right orwrong, fun or boring (there is very little middle ground).

• Look for adult approval and have a strong need to feel accepted and worthwhile.Adults should provide lots of encouragement and recognize even small successes.

• Prefer individual evaluation to group competition. Instead of comparing successwith others, youngsters prefer to know how much they have improved and whatthey should do to be better next time. They are easily embarrassed about doingeither better or worse than their friend.

• Are beginning to move out of the stage in which the satisfaction of completing aproject often comes from pleasing the leader or parent rather than from the valueof the activity itself.

12-13 Years Old• May begin growth spurts at this age, with girls maturing faster than boys. These

rapid changes may make some teens uncomfortable with their changing bodyimages.

• Approach of puberty sets off a roller coaster ride of hormones and emotions, pre-senting a major challenge to a young person’s self-concept.

• Are faced with so many changes, they hardly know who they are. They begin totest values and identities and seek adults who are accepting and willing to talkabout values and morals.

• Desire a sense of independence from parents, and are concerned about being likedby friends. Opinions of peers become more important than opinions of parentsand other adults in the areas of dress, music, and activities.

• Are moving from concrete to more abstract thinking. Ready-made solutions fromadults are often rejected in favor of finding their own solutions. Small groupsprovide an opportunity to test ideas.

• Are easily embarrassed by comparisons to other young people. They want to bepart of something that is important and that provides an opportunity to developresponsibility.

• Place importance on justice and equality. Judging of projects is viewed in terms ofwhat is fair. Ribbons are seen as reflections of the individual’s self-worth insteadof feedback on a specific project.

12

14-16 Years Old• Tend to be very concerned with themselves and their peer group. Relationship

skills become a priority. Many begin dating, and acceptance by members of theopposite sex may become important.

• Are becoming aware of their own special abilities and talents, so this is a goodtime to introduce them to leadership roles.

• Are beginning to think about the future and make realistic plans, so their voca-tional goals often influence the activities they select.

• Are mastering abstract thinking, so they imagine new ways of doing things thatsometimes challenge adults.

• Set their goals based on feelings of personal need and priorities. Any goals set byothers are likely to be rejected.

• Can initiate and complete tasks without supervision. Leader’s role should be thatof adviser/coach.

17-19 Years Old• Place importance on future plans as they begin making the transition to adult life.

Their goals for the future influence which activities they continue.• Determine their own schedule, in most cases, and only general directions are

needed when they are assigned familiar tasks.• Develop close relationships as they become preoccupied with their need for intimacy.• Make and carry out serious decisions, but still need adults for support and guid-

ance. Adults no longer control activities, but should serve as resource people,helping to stimulate teens’ thoughts.

Action DemonstrationsAn action demonstration is a fun way for a 4-H member to share with others what he

or she has learned from the 4-H project. It is similar to the show and tell from school,but the 4-H’er devotes more attention to getting the audience involved in a hands-onactivity instead of just showing them. Action demonstrations can be given anywherethere is a group of people, such as a county or state fair, shopping mall, street fair, or 4-Hevent. The demonstrator’s job is to interest people in the topic being presented so theywill stop and try their hand at what is being done. The best way to attract attention is byhaving people around a table doing an activity. People love to do hands-on activities, soa few people at the table doing something will attract others. The audience may beinvolved by doing what the demonstrator is doing, judging the quality of various items,playing a game, or answering questions. Some suggestions for sewing action demonstrations:

• Demonstrate sewing on a button and have extra buttons, needles, thread, andfabric so others can try.

• Talk about types of zipper applications or seam finishes and show both good andpoor examples that the audience can judge.

13

14

Sample Score Sheets

very good good needs

GENERAL APPEARANCECleanlinessPressed SELECTIONChoice of patternChoice of fabricChoice of thread WORKMANSHIPCut on grainStitching straightStitching — no loose threadsStitching even/tensionSeams pressed openSeam finishHeading even in widthElastic flat and secureCrotch curveHems

Exhibit contains the required number of skills for this level: YES__ NO__

COMMENTS:

Sew Much Fun Score SheetSkirt, Shorts, or Pants with Elastic Waist

Name

Club Placing

4-H 930ANew 8/01

improvement

Sew Much Fun Score SheetMiscellaneous Items

Name

Club Placing

Type of Article

very good good needs

GENERAL APPEARANCECleanlinessPressed SELECTIONChoice of patternChoice of fabricChoice of notions WORKMANSHIPCut on grainSeam finishEnclosed seamsInterfacingLiningFlat corners/no excess bulkHems evenCurved seams lie flatStitching — machineStitching — handZipperUse of batting/fiberfillAppliquéTrims

Exhibit contains the required number of skills for this level: YES__ NO__

COMMENTS:

4-H 930DNew 8/01

improvement

Sew Much Fun Score SheetBlouses, Shirts, and Vests

Name

Club Placing

very good good needs

GENERAL APPEARANCECleanlinessPressed SELECTIONChoice of patternChoice of fabricChoice of notions WORKMANSHIPDarts, gathers, pleatsCollarFacingsInterfacingsLiningsSeams (finish and width)Buttonholes, snaps, etc.SleevesCuffsHemsStitching — machineStitching — hand

Exhibit contains the required number of skills for this level: YES__ NO__

COMMENTS:

4-H 930BNew 8/01

improvement

improvement

Sew Much Fun Score SheetSkirt, Shorts, or Pants with Zipper

Name

Club Placing

very good good needs

GENERAL APPEARANCECleanlinessPressed SELECTIONChoice of patternChoice of fabricChoice of notions WORKMANSHIPCut on grainStitching — machineStitching — handSeams pressed openSeam finishPlacket/zipperCrotch curvePocketsDarts, gathers, pleatsWaistbandButtons, hooks, snapsHems

Exhibit contains the required number of skills for this level: YES__ NO__

COMMENTS:

4-H 930CNew 8/01

15

Sample Score Sheets

Sew Much Fun Score SheetDresses and Jumpers

Name

Club Placing

very good good needs

GENERAL APPEARANCECleanlinessPressed SELECTIONChoice of patternChoice of fabricChoice of notions WORKMANSHIPDarts, gathers, pleatsCollarFacingsInterfacingsLiningsSeams (finish and width)Enclosed seamsZipper or closingButtonholes, snaps, etc.SleevesWaistlineHemsEnclosed seamsStitching — machineStitching — hand

Exhibit contains the required number of skills for this level: YES__ NO__

COMMENTS:

4-H 930ENew 8/01

improvement

Sew Much Fun Score SheetSuits, Jackets, and Coats

Name

Club Placing

very good good needs

GENERAL APPEARANCECleanlinessPressed SELECTIONChoice of patternChoice of fabricChoice of notions WORKMANSHIPDarts, gathers, pleatsFacingsInterfacingsLiningCollars/lapelsPlacket/zipperButtonholes, snaps, etc.WaistbandPocketsSleevesShoulder padsHemsSeams (width and finish)Enclosed seamsStitching — machineStitching — hand

Exhibit contains the required number of skills for this level: YES__ NO__

COMMENTS:

4-H 930FNew 8/01

improvement

Sew Much Fun Score SheetSewing Machine Survey

Name

Club Placing

very good good needs improvement

GENERAL NOTEBOOKOrganized presentationSpelling and grammarCharts, graphs, labels INFORMATIONSewing machinesSergersCostsFeaturesProduct literatureOther details

Report meets all requirements for this level: YES__ NO__

COMMENTS:

4-H 930GNew 8/01

Sew Much Fun Score SheetConstruction Samples Notebook

Name

Club Placing

very good good needs

GENERAL APPEARANCEOrganized presentationCharts, graphs, labelsSamples securely mounted CONSTRUCTION SAMPLES (not all samples required for each level; see project guidelines for specific requirements)Marking techniquesSeamsSeam finishesUnderstitchingGatheringZippersButtonholesButtonsPocketsAppliquéDartsInterfacingsClosuresHandstitching samplerTopstitchingFabric swatchesSerger swatchesOther

Notebook meets all requirements for this level: YES__ NO__

COMMENTS:

4-H 930HNew 8/01

improvement

16

Glossary

Levels A, B, and C of the sewing manuals each contain a glossary. Terms found in thoseglossaries are italicized, underlined, and in bold type when they first appear in the manual. This isan alphabetized list of the terms from all three of those glossaries. Some terms appear twice in thislist because they appear in different levels of the curriculum with slightly different definitions. Theearliest definition appears first.

Adjustment line – pattern marking or a line drawn on pattern for lengthening or shortening. (Level B)

Appliqué – a decoration made by cutting pieces of one fabric and applying them to the surface ofanother. (Level B)

Backstitching – stitches that are made at the beginning and end of a line of stitching to keep thethreads from pulling loose. To backstitch, place the needle 1/2" from the edge of the fabric andstitch back to the edge. Stitch forward to the other end of the seam, and then stitch backward1/2". The two lines of stitching should be right on top of each other. (Level A)

Backstitching – taking short backward stitches to secure a line of stitching. (Level B)

Baste – a way to hold items together by using large stitches that will be taken out later. Set thesewing machine for six stitches to an inch for basting. (Level A)

Basting – long temporary stitches used to hold fabric in place during fitting or construction. (Level B)

Batting – cotton, wool, or polyester fiber that is wadded into rolls or sheets and used for stuffingitems or for lining quilts. (Level B)

Bias – a diagonal line between the lengthwise and crosswise grain of fabric. (Level A)

Bias binding – manufactured bias binding is available in two widths, 1/2" and 1" with ready-pressedseam allowances of 1/4" on both edges. (Level A)

Binding – a narrow fabric or bias strip used to finish raw edges. (Levels A and B)

Blind hem – to stitch either by machine or hand so that the stitches do not show. (Level B)

Bobbin – holds the thread for the underside of the seam. (Level A)

Boning – utilized in the bodice of dresses to stabilize or shape. Boning may be made of severaldifferent materials, typically flexible spiral steel. (Level C)

Bound buttonholes – these are made by stitching strips or patches of fabric to the buttonholelocation. The fabric is then cut and the strips or patches are turned to the wrong side, thus“binding” the edges of the opening. These buttonholes are well-suited to tailored garments. (Level C)

Button loops – may be substituted for buttonholes. They are particularly useful for sheer orlightweight fabrics where handling should be kept to a minimum. Loops are most often made ofself-fabric tubing, but purchased decorative braid may be used. (Level C)

Cotton blend – a fabric made of part cotton and part something else like polyester or nylon. Thefabric label will tell you what the fabric is made of. The label is usually found on the end of thecardboard bolt. (Level A)

Crosswise ends – the width (short) ends of a piece of fabric. (Level A)

Crosswise grain – threads that run across the width (short side) of the fabric. (Level B)

Crosswise threads or grain – threads that run across the width (short side) of the fabric. (Level A)

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Darts – folds tapered to a point, stitched into a garment to give it shape. (Level B)

Doll joints – commercially produced and ready for purchase, one joint consists of 2 discs, 2washers plus 1 pop rivet or 1 cotter pin or a lock nut and bolt (washers are not necessary withlock nuts). (Level C)

Ease – extra fabric or fullness that must be worked into a seam allowance when one piece of fabricis slightly larger than another. (Level A)

Edge stitching – stitching near the edge of the fabric. (Level B)

Excess seam allowance – extra fabric in the seam that should be trimmed to remove bulk or helpgive a smoother appearance. (Level A)

Facing – fabric cut on the same grain as the garment, used to finish open edge of a garment suchas the neckline, armhole, or center front. (Levels A and B)

Fly front zipper – primarily used on menswear but also a popular fashion detail on girls’ andwomen’s garments. (Level C)

Front hip pockets – are attached to the garment at the waist and side seams. These pockets aremade by utilizing two pattern pieces, a pocket piece and a facing piece. (Level C)

Gathering – fullness obtained by drawing up bobbin threads or stitched-over cording. (Level B)

Grade – the trimming of seam allowances to different widths in order to reduce bulk. (Level A)

Grainline – the lengthwise threads and crosswise threads of the fabric should form right angles. (Level A)

Hand picked zipper – a zipper application that is finished by hand stitching the lap that covers thezipper. The hand stitches are very short, with long spaces between them. (Level C)

Hem – a finished edge on a garment that is made by folding the selvage or raw edge under andstitching it down. (Level A)

Inseam pocket – pockets that are applied so that they appear in the side seam of a garment. (Level B)

Inseam pockets – pockets that are sewn right into the side seam. They lie flat against the body anddon’t break the line of the skirt or pants. (Level B)

Interfacing – fabric used in waistbands, shirt fronts, and collars to provide support and keep themfrom rolling or stretching. (Levels A and B)

Invisible zippers – allow the zipper tape and coil to be inserted into the seam of a garment resultingin only the zipper tab showing. They are ideal for formal wear and close-fitting garments withclean lines and/or side zips. (Level C)

Lapped zipper – may be used in the center back seam or in the side. There is only one line ofstitching visible on the finished zipper and the zipper is covered completely. (Level C)

Layout – the position of pattern pieces on fabric to be cut. (Level B)

Lengthwise grain – threads that run the length (long way) of the fabric in the same direction as theselvage. (Level B)

Lengthwise threads or grain – threads that run the length (long way) of the fabric in the samedirection as the selvage. (Level A)

Lockstitch – a way to keep stitches from coming out by stitching in place several times. Set thestitch length to 0", make 2 or 3 stitches, then reset the stitch length and continue sewing. (Level B)

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Nap – the soft or fuzzy surface on fabric. Items to be made of fabric with a definite nap should becut out so that all pieces have the nap running either up or down. If the nap runs up toward thetop of the item, the color will appear darker. If the nap runs down toward the bottom of the item,the color will look lighter and have a slight shine. (Level B)

Notches – diamond-shaped markings that show where a seam is to be matched with a notch onanother pattern piece. (Level B)

Off-grain – the lengthwise and crosswise threads in the fabric are not at right angles. (Levels A and B)

On-grain – the lengthwise and crosswise threads in the fabric are at right angles. (Level A)

Patch pocket – a flat pocket on the outside of a garment. (Level B)

Patch pockets – are attached to the outside of the garment. The pockets can be round, square, ortriangular in shape. (Level C)

Pattern guide – the instruction sheet that is found inside your pattern envelope. (Level A)

Piping – a rounded strip of cloth used for trimming garments or decorative fabrics. (Level B)

Placket – a slit in a garment (as a skirt) often forming the closure. (Level B)

Pleats – folds of fabric used to control fullness. They may be placed singly or in a series. They maybe crisp (pressed or stitched) or soft (unpressed). (Levels B and C)

Preshrinking – machine washing and drying fabric before you cut out the garment. This is toshrink the fabric before it is cut. (Levels A and B)

Raw edge – the cut edge of a piece of fabric. (Level A)

Regular stitch – permanent stitch for seams. The length depends on the fabric but would usuallybe 10-12 stitches per inch. (Level B)

Remnants – fabric that is left over at the end of a bolt of fabric in the store or scraps left over fromsewing projects. (Level A)

Ribbing – a raised ridge in knitted material or cloth. (Level B)

Ribbing – a stretchy knit fabric that is sold either by the yard or in packaged quantities cut andfinished to a specific width. Typically applied to necklines or on bottoms of sleeves for cuffs.(Level C)

Right side of fabric – the side of the fabric that faces out when you see the item or wear thegarment. (Level A)

Ruffle – a strip of frilled or closely pleated fabric used for trimming or decoration. (Level B)

Seam – the joining two fabric edges. Seams are usually stitched with a stitch length of 10-12stitches per inch. (Level A)

Seam allowance – the amount of fabric between the cut edge and the stitching line. This is usually5/8" but may be as little as 1/4". (Levels A and B)

Seam gauge – a 6" tool that is useful for measuring hems or seams. (Level A)

Self-enclosed seams – all seam allowances are enclosed, which avoids the necessity of a separateseam finish. These seams are especially appropriate on sheer fabrics. (Level C)

Selvage – (pronounced SELL-vij) – the narrow, tightly woven strip along the length (long side) of thefabric. (Level A)

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Selvage – either of the two lengthwise bound edges of uncut fabric. (Level B)

Separating zipper – a zipper that completely separates, such as for a jacket or sweater. The bottomof the zipper has metal tabs for starting the pull, while a regular zipper is clamped together tonot separate. (Level C)

Serger – a machine that can be used to stitch, trim, and overcast a seam in one operation. (Level B)

Sham – a decorative covering for a pillow. (Level A)

Shank button – this type of button has a solid top and a shank or stem underneath for sewing on.The shank may be in one piece with the button or may consist of a wire loop. (Level B)

Shaped seams – seams that are designed to fit the body’s contours. (Level C)

Simple seam finish – a line of stitching that is done along a seam edge to keep fabric from raveling.(Level A)

Sleeve cap – the rounded upper portion of the sleeve between the front and back notches indicatedby the pattern piece. (Level B)

Staystitching – machine stitching through a single thickness of fabric to keep it from stretching.This is usually done on curved areas. Sometimes patterns have small arrows in the seamline toshow the direction for this stitching. Staystitching is usually placed 1/2" from the raw edge ofthe cut piece. (Level A)

Staystitching – regular stitching usually placed 1/2" from raw edge of a piece that has been cut off-grain; used to maintain the pattern grainline. (Level B)

Stitching in the ditch – stitching that is done on the right side of the garment with the loose edgeunderneath. Stitching is done in the seamline through the seam or previous stitching. This isused to fasten loose edges. (Level A)

Topstitching – a line of stitching done on the right side of the fabric that can be used for decorationor to hold the seam allowances of a plan seam flat. (Levels A and B)

Tucks – small folds in fabric that are stitched in place as a design feature. (Level B)

Tucks – stitched folds of fabric that are most often decorative in purpose. (Level C)

Twin needles – two needles joined together with a common body or shank. They can be used onsome machines for straight or decorative stitching (see your sewing machine manual). (Level C)

Underlining – a lightweight fabric that is applied to the wrong side of the garment fabric to giveadditional strength, support, and durability to the garment. (Level C)

Understitching – stitching that is done to help create smooth edges that are sharp and flat. It alsohelps keep the facing from showing on the right side of the garment. After a seam is pressedtoward a facing, the understitching is placed close to the seam edge on the facing so that thestitching catches both seam allowances. (Levels A and B)

Vent – A slit in the back of a garment. (Level C)

Welt pocket – a pocket that has the opening covered with narrow strips of fabric resulting in no rawedges showing. (Level C)

Woven cotton – fabric made of cotton yarns that go over and under each other. (Level A)

Woven fabrics – fabric that is made by yarns going over and under each other. (Level A)

Wrong side – the side of the fabric that you do not see in a finished item, or the side of a garmentthat is against your skin when you wear it. (Level A)

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